Anthology of Louisiana Literature
Carl Bernhard, Duke of Saxe-Weimar Eisenach.
Travels through North America During the Years 1825 and
1826.
TRAVELS
THROUGH
NORTH AMERICA,
DURING THE
YEARS 1825 AND 1826.
BY HIS HIGHNESS
BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. I.
PHILADELPHIA:
CAREY, LEA & CAREY — CHESNUT STREET.
SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. & C. CARVILL.
1828.
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Prince
Bernhard of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach (1792-1862)
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CHAPTER XI.
Journey to Philadelphia. — Stay in that place. — Bethlehem
and Nazareth.
Mr. J. R. Livingston, a very respectable citizen of New York,
whose country seat is at Massena, near Redhook, about a
hundred miles up the Hudson river, near the little town called
Hudson, invited me to visit him, and be present at a ball.
I accepted the invitation, especially as I was informed I
should find assembled there the best society, who generally
reside during the summer in the country.
The Grymes’ family, which arrived at New York not long after
me, were likewise of the party. Consequently we left New York
on the 5th of October, on board the safety-barge Lady Van
Rensselaer, for Albany. As Mr. Livingston had invited several
other persons of the best families of New York, who were all
on board, good conversation was not wanting. About half past
five we started, but did not long enjoy the beauties of this
noble river, as it soon became dark. During night we were
awakened with the unpleasant news that the leading boat had
run ashore in a fog. After five hours of useless exertion to
get her afloat, we were obliged to go on board the steam-boat
Henry Eckford, passing up the river. This boat was old, and no
longer used for conveying passengers, but as a tow-boat. She
had vessels attached to her, on both sides, laden with goods,
which gave her the appearance of a ferry-boat. Though not very
pleasantly situated on board of this boat, we had a good
opportunity of observing the magnificent banks of the river
after the fog disappeared. Instead of arriving at eight
o’clock, a. m.
we did not reach our place of destination till five o’clock p. m. We were
received by the owner, a gentleman seventy-six years old,
and his lovely daughter. The house is pleasantly situated on
an elevated spot in a rather neglected park. Our new
acquaintances mostly belonged to the Livingston family.
I was introduced to Mr. Edward Livingston, member of
congress, the brother of our entertainer, a gentleman,
who for talent and personal character, stands high in this
country. He resides in Louisiana, and is employed in preparing
a new criminal code for that state, which is much praised by
those who are acquainted with jurisprudence.
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Edward Livingston
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In the evening about eight o’clock, the company assembled at
the ball, which was animated, and the ladies elegantly
attired. They danced nothing but French contra-dances, for the
American ladies have so much modesty that they object to
waltzing. The ball continued until two o’clock in the morning.
I became acquainted at this ball with two young officers
from West Point, by the name of Bache, great grandsons of
Dr. Franklin. Their grandmother was the only daughter of
this worthy man; one is a lieutenant of the artillery at West
Point, and the other was educated in the same excellent
school, and obtained last year the first prize-medal; he was
then appointed lieutenant of the engineer corps, and second
professor of the science of engineering, under Professor
Douglass. On the following day we took a ride in spite of the
great heat, at which I was much astonished, as it was so late
in the season, to the country-seat of General Montgomery’s
widow, a lady eighty-two years of age, sister to the
elder Messrs. Livingstons. General Montgomery fell before
Quebec on the 31st of October, 1775. This worthy lady, at this
advanced age, is still in possession of her mental faculties;
her eyes were somewhat dim. Besides her place of residence,
which is handsomely situated on the Hudson river, she
possesses a good fortune. Adjoining the house is a small park
with handsome walks, and a natural waterfall of forty feet.
I observed in the house a portrait of General Montgomery,
besides a great number of family portraits, which the
Americans seem to value highly. According to this painting he
must have been a very handsome man. At four o’clock in the
afternoon we left our friendly landlord and embarked in the
steam-boat Olive Branch, belonging to the Livingston family
for New York, where we arrived next morning at six o’clock.
At Mr. Walsh’s I found a numerous assembly, mostly of
scientific and literary gentlemen. This assembly is called “Wistar Party;” it is
a small learned circle which owes its existence to a Quaker
physician, Dr. Wistar, who assembled all the literati and
public characters of Philadelphia at his house, every Saturday
evening, where all well-recommended foreigners were
introduced. After his death, the society was continued by his
friends, under the above title, with this difference, that
they now assemble alternately at the houses of the members.
The conversation generally relates to literary and scientific
topics. I unexpectedly met Mr. E. Livingston in this
assembly; I was also introduced to the mayor of the city,
Mr. Watson, as well as most of the gentlemen present, whose
interesting conversation afforded me much entertainment.
His excellency, John Quincy Adams, President of the United
States, had just returned from a visit to his aged and
venerable father near Boston, and took the room next to mine
in the Mansion-house. He had been invited to the Wistar-Party
on the 22d of October, at the house of Colonel Biddle, and
accepted the invitation to the gratification of all the
members. I also visited the party. The President is a man
about sixty years old, of rather short stature, with a bald
head, and of a very plain and worthy appearance. He speaks
little, but what he does speak is to the purpose. I must
confess that I seldom in my life felt so true and sincere a
reverence as at the moment when this honourable gentleman whom
eleven millions of people have thought worthy to elect as
their chief magistrate, shook hands with me. He made many
inquiries after his friends at Ghent, and particularly after
the family of Mr. Meulemeester. Unfortunately I could not long
converse with him, because every member of the party had
greater claims than myself. At the same time I made several
other new and interesting acquaintances, among others with a
Quaker, Mr. Wood, who had undertaken a tour through England,
France, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Russia, mostly with the
philanthropic view of examining the prison discipline of those
countries. I was much gratified with his instructive
conversation, although I had some controversy with him on the
prison discipline, as he heard that I did not agree with his
views relative to the new penitentiary, of which he was one of
the most active promoters. Mr. Livingston, who has effected
the abolition of capital punishment in the state of Louisiana,
was here lauded to the skies by the philanthropists. God send
it success!
CHAPTER XIX.
Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City.
ON the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem,
whose cabin was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but
fifty tons,) but comfortably high, and well ornamented. The
sides were of mahogany and maple; on each side were two
staterooms, which two births each; the back part of the cabin,
being something higher than the forward part, contained a
birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by
Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself.
The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and
overgrown with wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle
Dauphine, by the unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it.
Mobile point lies to the left, where, after sunset, we beheld
the light in the light-house. There stood on this point in the
late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which the present
Lieutenant- Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended,
with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight
hundred disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians,
under
Major
Nichols.
The assailants were defeated, after their
ordnance was dismounted, with considerable loss, and the
English corvette Hermes, which covered the
attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In
February, 1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to
yield to superior force, and to capitulate to Admiral
Cockburn, who was on his return from the unsuccessful
expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of hostility
that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since
demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is
erecting, which we would willingly have inspected, had the
wind been more favourable, and brought us earlier. We steered
between Mobile Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the
Mexican gulf, and turning then to the right, southward of the
Sandy Islands, which laid along the coast, sailed towards Lake
Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a strong wind rose from
the west which blew directly against us. We struggled nearly
the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The wind
changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The
main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was
injured by the helm striking him in the side, and was for a
time unfit for duty. On account of the great bustle on deck,
the passengers could hardly close an eye all night. The motion
of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture
was tossed about by the rolling.
On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back
to the strait between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point and the
anchor was dropt to prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick,
but had the consolation that several passengers shared my
misfortune. The whole day continued disagreeable, cold, and
cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island, several of our
company went on shire, and brought back a few thrushes which
they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting
this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing
nothing but everlasting pines. Upon it, strands some remains
of an old entrenchment and barrack. Besides the custom-house
officers, only three families live on the whole island. We saw
the light-house, and the houses at Mobile Point, not far from
us. I wished to have gone there to see the fortification
lately commenced, but it was too fat to go on a rough sea in a
skiff. On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable;
it blew from the north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we
set sail. After several delays, caused by striking on
sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable wind, passed
Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn, and
Ship Island.
These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them
covered with pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of
Holland and Flanders. Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a
bay, which is called Pascagoula, from a river rising in the
state of Mississipi, and emptying here into the sea. Ship
Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the
English fleet which transported the troops sent on the
expedition agaist New Orleans, remained during the months of
December and January, 1814-15. At the considerable distance
from us to the left, were some scattered islands, called Les
Malheureux. Behind there were the islands De la Chandeleur,
and still farther La Clef du Francmacon. Afterwards we passed
a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast,
and arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with
Lake Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications,
each above a mile broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur,
and the other the Rigolets. Both are guarded by forts, the
first Coquilles, so called because it is built on a foundation
of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of
the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets
in the night with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when
we reached Lake Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets in
the night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we
reached Lake Borgne. After we have passed the Rigolets, we
arrived in Lake Ponchartrain, then turned left from the
light-house of Fort St. John, which protects the entrance of
the bayou of the same name, leading to New Orleans.
I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St.
John. This water is so broad, that we could not see the
northern shore. We remained at the entrance one hour, to give
the sailors a short rest, who had worked the whole night, and
whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to the city, six miles
distant. This fort, which has lost its importance since the
erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Conquilles, is
abandoned, and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies
about five hundred paces distant from the sea, but on account
of the marshy banks cannot be thence attacked without great
difficulty. The bank is covered with thick beams, to make it
hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate
perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the
bayou, is of made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the
fort is a public house, called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is
much frequented by persons from the city during summer. I
recognized the darling amusements of the inhabitants, in a
pharo and roulette table.
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Map of New Orleans 1798.
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As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages,
we proposed to hire a carriage, but there was none to be
found; six dollars was asked for a boat; we therefore, decided
to go on for. The Colonel, Mr. Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew,
and myself made up this walking party. The morning was
beautiful spring weather' we passed through a shocking marshy
country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were
hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of
palmettoes were the only variety afford. The causeway was very
muddy; there were good wooden bridges over little ditches,
which conveyed the water from the surrounding marshes into the
bayou.
After we have proceeded three miles in the manner, we came
into a cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found
ourselves quite in another world. Plantations, with handsome
buildings, fallowed in quick succession; noble live oaks,
which has been trimmed to regular shapes, young orange trees,
pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes, along the
road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a
population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several
mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered
galleries; some of these were of ancient style in building. It
was naturally agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in
mere wildernesses, once more to come into a long civilized
country. We saw from afar, the white spires of the cathedral
of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships lying in the
Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this
city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a
turning bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way.
This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over
the streets were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the
city, as we reached, without knowing it, was really not
handsome; for we reached, without knowing it, war really not
handsome; for we came into the oldest section, which consisted
only of little one-story houses, with mud walls, and wide
projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are regularly laid
out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular to
it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is
destroyed, in its room there is a boulevard laid out, called
Rue de Remparts.
Next to the old town below, lies the suburb
Marigny, and above, that of St. Mary; then begins the most
elegant part of the city.
Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little
through the city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay
our homage to this "father of rivers." It is about half a mile
wide, and must be above eighty fathoms deep; it is separated
from the city by a compost of muscle shells. This causeway
defends it from inundations. There are no wharves, they cannot
be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The ships lay
four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames,
at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats,
employed in the river trade. In a line with the bank stood
houses, which were two or three stories high, and built of
brick, also ancient massive Spanish houses, known by their
heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We pass by a square, of
which the river formed one side, opposite stood the cathedral,
and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with
areades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of
brick, modeled after the Propylae, in Athens, and divided into
separate blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges,
bananas, pecan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different
descriptions; also several shops, in which coffee and oysters
were sold. The black population appeared very large; we were
informed, that above one-half of the inhabitants, forty-five
thousand in number, were of the darker colour. The
custom-house on the Levée, is a pretty building.
We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott,
to whose house I had letters, who had the politeness to take
charge of us, and assist us in out search for lodgings. We
obtained tolerable quarters in the boarding house of Madame
Herries, Rue de Chartes. The first person I encountered in
this house, was Count Vidus, with whom I had become aquainted
in New York and who since had travelled through Canada, the
western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi.
My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here
inhabits a large, massive, and splendidly furnished house. I
found only Mrs. Grymes at home, who after an exceedingly
fatiguing journey arrived here, and in fourteen days after had
given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly arranged
rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable
invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and
accompanied me back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not
yet arrived, we went to meet it and found it in the canal, a
mile and a half from town, where two cotton boats blocked up
the way. We had our baggage put into the skiff, and came with
it into the basin, where the canal terminates.
In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the
state of Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him
at home. After this we went to several coffee-houses, where
the lower class amused themselves, hearing are workman singing
in Spanish, which he accompanied with the guitar. Mr. Grymes
took me to the masked ball, which is held every evening during
the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which they
danced, was quit long, well planned, and adorned with large
mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically
arranged. There were few masks, only a few dominos,
none in character. Cotillions and waltzes were the dances
performed. The dress of the ladies I observed to be very
elegant, but understood that most of those dancing did not
belong to the better class of society. There were several
adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when
subscription balls are given. In the ground floor of the
building are rooms, in which pharo and roulette are played.
These places were obscure, and resembled caverns: the company
playing there appeared from their dress, not to be of the best
description.
Next day, we made a new acquaintances, and renewed some old
ones. I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged
to give up my plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was
allowed to that country who was not a subject of such states
as had recognized the new government. There were too many
obstacles in my way, and therefore I determined to wait in New
Orleans for the mild season, and then to ascend the
Mississippi. The result was an extensive aquantance, a
succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from
which one cannot refrain yielding to the city. No day passed
over this winder which did not produce something pleasant or
interesting, each day however, was nearly the same as its
predecessors. Dinners, evening parties, plays, masquerades,
and other amusements followed close on each other, and were
interrupted only by the little circumstances which accompany
life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other.
The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy
style of architecture externally, with a gable on which a
tower and two lateral cupolas are erected. The facade is so
confused, that I cannot pretend to describe it. Within, the
church resembles a village church in Flanders. The ceiling is
of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the nave
into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with
plaster: as well as the walls, they are constructed without
taste. The three altars are distinguished by no remarkable
ornament. Upon one of the side altars strands an ugly wax
image of the virgin and child. Near the great altar is a
throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this
cathedral is visited by beau monde; except on these
occasions, I found that most of the worshippers consisted only
of blacks, and coloured people, the chief part of them
females.
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St. Louis Cathedral in 1838.
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The sinking o of the Levée is guarded against in a peculiar
way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this
purpose, and geld together by watt ling. After the dam is
raised up, there are palisades of the same kind placed behind
each other. Here the twigs of the palmetto are inserted in the
ground close together, and their fan-like leaves form a wall,
which prevents the earth from rolling down.
There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have
brick side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by
the ships from the northern states, and sell here very high.
Several sidewalks are also laid with broad flag stones. In the
carriage way of the streets there is a prodigious quantity of
mud. After a rain it is difficult even for a carriage to pass;
the walkers who to from one side to the other, have a severe
inconvenience before them; either they must make a long
digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss,
for the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade
through, run a risk of sticking fast.
Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New
Orleans, that it is in the North. The shops are open, and
there is singing and guitar playing in the streets. in New
York, or Philadelphia, such proceedings would be regarded as
outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we went for the first time,
to the French theatre, in which a play was performed every
Sunday and Thursday. The piece of this night, was the tragedy
of
Regulus,
and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was
merely
tolerable,
such as those of small French provincial
towns,
where they never presume to present tragedies, or
comedies of the highest class. "Regulus" was murdered; Mr.
Marchand and Madame Clozel, whose husband performed the comic
parts very well in the vaudevilles, alone distinguished
themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well ornamented;
below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four
persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided
by walls, but only separated by a low partition, so that the
ladies can exhibit themselves convenietly. Over the first row
of boxes is a second, to which the free colored people resort,
who are not admitted to any other part of the theatre, and
above this row is the gallary, in which slaves may go, with
the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes in a lobby,
where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or
or walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre
was less attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it
was said, that the great shock felt in the commercial world,
on account of the bankruptcy of three of the
most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate
speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the
cause of this desertion.
The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the
first and fourth regiments. This has been here since the last
insurrection
of
the negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In
case of serious alarm, this would prove but of little service!
and what security is there against such an alarm? The Chartres
streetm where we dwelt, there were two establishments, which
constantly revolt my feelings, to wit: shops in which negroes
were purchase and sold. These unfortunate beings, of both
sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in front
of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The
abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference,
produces by custom in white men, is indescribable.
There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which
the managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took
place twice a week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French
theatre, where the masquerade had been, which I mentioned
before. None but a good society were admitted to these
subscription balls; the first that we attended was not
crowded, however, the generality of the ladies present were
very pretty , and had a very genteel French air. The dress was
extremely elegant, and after the latest Paris fashion. The
ladies danced, upon the whole, excellently, and did great
honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and some instruction
in music, is almost the whole education of the female creoles.
Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in
elegance. They did not remain long at the ball, but hasted
away to the quadroon ball ball, so called,
where they amused themselves more, and were more at their
ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than
gentlemen present at the ball, and that many were onliged to
form "tapestry." When a lady is left sitting, she is said to
be "bredouillè."
Two cotillations and a waltz, are danced in succession, and
there is hardly an interval of two or three minutes between
the dances, The music was performed by negroes and coloured
people, and was pretty good. The governor was also at the
ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others, a
Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac,
who, having emigrated from here from St. Domingo, had married,
and given the world some very handsome daughters. Several of
the French families here settled, and indeed, the most
respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the
idemnification due to them, but without any great hope of
receiving it.
Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first
and fourth regiments, under Major Twiggs
stationed here; both together made at the most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I had no opportunity to observe before, in the 'troops' of the United States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example, the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints, files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manœuvres in battalion training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more; there were also several members of the legislature now assembling, present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present commanded a division of the Louisiana militia.
Colonel Croghan also attended the
review.
When the review was over, the governor showed me the two
extensive buildings joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as
before-mentioned. One of them is devoted to the use of the
several courts of jusice, and the other is the City Hall. In
the first, the United States court was holding its sessions,
and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed himself to
the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before
him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro.
The buyer had purchased him as a slave for life; after the
bargain had been concluded, and payment made, he discovered,
by the declaration of his former masster, the seller, that at
a certain period he was to be free. I could not remain long
enough in the court, to wait for the decision.
John Ellis Wool
We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the
guard-house of the city guard, besides a
prison
for runaways, or negroes punished by order of their masters,
who are here incarcerated, and employed in all servile labours
for the city; they are termed negres marrons. The
masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents for
each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small
piece of ordance, from which the signal tatoo is fired. After
this shot, no negro can tread the streets without a
without a
pass.
The upper stories of this building contains the
offices and court halls of the magistrates. Part of them were
ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as quarters
for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April
last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building,
ran a gallery with very large windows, which being raised in
summer, change the gallery into an airy balcony: an
arrangement which I had remarked to exist also in the other
buiding, where the courts of justice sat.
Hence the governor next conducted me to the old
Spanish government house, in which the senators and
representatives of the state of Louisiana were now assembled.
The building is ancient and crazy, otherwise situated in a
handsome spot on the Levée, surrounded by a balcony. There is
nothing more done for the repair of this building, as in a few
years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The
reason given for this is , that many members of the
legislature are plain people, who feel embarrased in New
Orleans, and hope to be more at their ease in Donaldsonville.
The office of the governor is in the yard, in a small house,
where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly had his
office.
|
The Cabildo.
|
In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several
articles which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which,
here-after, are to be sent to Pensacola. Among these, I
remarked brass and iron cannon of various calibres, and from
different countries, English, Spanish, and French. There were
some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful ornaments
and inscriptions. On one was, “ultima ratio regum;” on
others, the darling “liberté, egalité.”
These pieces were found in the trifting fortifications that
formerely surrounded the city, when the United States took
possession of Louisiana, in 1803.
During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and
steady. The streets became bottomless: holes formed in them,
where carriages and carts were in constant peril of upsetting.
At first it was cold; while the rain continued, there followed
such an oppressive heat, that it was feared an earthquake was
about to take place: it thundered and lightened also very
heavily.
At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I
visited it for the second time, I observed, however, many
present by free tickets, and I was told that the company was
very much mixed. The unmasked ladies belonging to good
society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which were higher
than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were some
masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels
took place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and
terminated in the vastibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking,
without any interuption from the police.
On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took
place. A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white
father, as a mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a
white father. The quadroons are almost entirely white: from
their skin no one would detect their origin; nay many of them
have as fair a complexion as many of the haughty creole
females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free.
Formerely they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at
present there are completely fair quadroon males and females.
Still, however, the strongest prejudice reigns against them on
account of their black blood, and the white ladies maintain,
or affect to maintain, the most violent aversion towards them.
Marriage between the white and coloured population is
forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadoons on their
part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will
not mix them, so nothing remains for them but to be the
friends, as it is termed, of the white men. The female
quadroon looks upon such an engagement as matrimonial
contract, though it goes no farther than a formal contract by
which the "friend" engages to pay the father or mother of the
quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume of the
name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve their
engagement with as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the
altar. Several of these girls have inherited property from
their fathers or friends, and possess handsome fortunes.
Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very
humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a
carriage, and their "friends" are forced to bring them in
their own conveyances after dark to the ball: they dare not
sit in the presence of white ladies, and cannot enter their
apartments without especially permission. The whites have the
privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping
like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by
two witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the
benefits of as careful an education as most of the whites;
they conduct themselves ordinarily with more propriety and
decorum, and confer more happiness on their "friends," than
many of the white ladies to their married lords. Still, the
white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and
even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings.
The strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of
the old world, cannot be more haughty, overweening or
contemptuous towards their fellow creatures, than the
expressions of the creole females with regard to the
quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free
Union. In fact, such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking
being very singularly! Many wealthy fathers, on account of the
existing prejudices send daughters of this description to
France, where these girls with a good education and property,
find no difficulty in forming a legitimate establishment. At
the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted, the men
of that caste, be it understand, are shut vulgarity, the price
of admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of
the better class can appear there.
As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to
acquire a knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and
prejudices of the people he is among, therefore I accepted the
offer of some gentlemen who proposed to carry me to this
quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it much more decent
than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under the eyes
of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and
conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty.
Cotillions and waltzes were danced, several of the ladies
performed elegantly. I did not remain long there that I might
not utterly destroy my standing in New Orleans, but returned
to the masked ball and took great care not to the white ladies
where I had been. I could nothowever refrain from making
comparisons, which in now wise redounded to the advantage of
the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of formality.
At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed,
called the varioloid. It was said to be a species of
small-pox, and was described as malignant in the highest
degree. Even persons who had undergone vaccination, and those
who had passed through the natural small-pox, were attacked by
the disorder. The garrison were placed in the barracks to
preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was
imported by some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of
slaves in the slave states of Maryland and Virginia have
real?(pardon the loathsome expression, I not how otherwise to
designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries for slaves, whence
the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other southern
states draw their supplies which increase every day in price.
Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return
for
slaves thus obtained!
We paid the late governor of the stage, Mr.
Robinson, a visit. It gave me much pleasure to cultivate
his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded with universal
respect, and I meg in him a highly interesting and well
informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner,
given by the acting governor, I became acquainted with the
former governor and militia general Villaret, as well as with
Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who was employed in the navy of the
United States as surgeon-general. From this dinner we went to
the child's ball, which was given in the customary ball room
if the French theatre, for the benefit of the dancing master.
Most of the children were white charming and danced very
prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years if
age, were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies.
About eight o'clock the little children left off dancing and
were mostly sent home, and in their place the lather girls
resumed the dance. The costume of the ladies was very elegant.
To my discomfiture, however, a pair of tobacco-chewing
gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I received
such a sensation if disgust, that u was nearly in the
situation of one sea-sick.
On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel
Wool, who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took
leave. I accomplished him to his steam-boat, which departed at
eleven o'clock, and gazed after him for a long time.
I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent, in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese, took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery, the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day.
At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display
of magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors
opened and we beheld another dining room, in which stood a
table with the dessert. We withdrew from the first table, and
seated ourselves at the second, in the same order in which we
had partaken of the first. As the variety of wines began to
set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies rose,
retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for
amusement. Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle,
while others, among who I was one, followed the ladies, and
regaled ourselves with harmony. We had waltzing until ten
o’clock, when we went to the masquerade in the theatre of St.
Phillip’s street, a small building, in which, at other times,
Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of
quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them
addressed me, and coquetted with me sometime, in the mist
subtle and amusing manner.
A young lawyer from Paris, of the name Souliez, paid me a
visit. He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his
native country on account of some liberal publications which
he had made against the Jesuits in the newspapers. On this
account he, full of the liberal ideas, had left his home, and
gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from bishop
Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the
state of things widely different from what he had fancied them
at home. The consequence was he had come to the United States,
and he now candidly confessed that he was completely cured of
his fine dreams of liberty.
Dr. Herman gave a dinner at which were more than twenty
guests. Among them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and
several of the public characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was
slowly recovering from his gout, and Count Vidya, were also
there. Except our hostess there was no lady unwell, and
obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid.
I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana,
Mr.
Dubourg,
and was very politely received. He is a Jesuit,
a native of St. Domingo, and appears to be about such heads
old. He delivers himself very well, and conversed with me
concerning the disturbances in the diocese I'd Ghent, in the
time if the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and
counselor of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress
through his diocese, took an active part. In his chamber, I
saw a very fine portrait is Pope Pius VII. a copy of one
painted by Canuccini, and given by the pope to the deceased
duke if Saxed-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery,
the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established
as a school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next
day.
We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest,
such a boat is styled a "ferry-boat." This was the only stated
means if communication supported between the city and the
right bank. Formerly there was a steam ferry-boat, and
afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor the other
could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly
three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived in the right back, we
found a little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville,
that did not appear very thriving. Kng the bank runs a
levée, to protect the land from inundation. Several
vessel safe laid up here. The country is exceedingly level,
and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of
forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however,
by long hgly miss. Farther inward is a sugar plantations
belonging to Baron Marigny. The rivet makes a remarkable bend
opposite New Orleans, and the city, with its white spires, and
crowds of vessels lying in the stream, looks uncommonly well
from the right bank.
General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house,
which is eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the
politeness to bring us in his carriage. At half past eleven
o'clock, I sent out with Count Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The
habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in sugar plantation
are termed, Is upon the left back of the Mississippi, about a
short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the
English army for headquarters. The road to it led along the
levée, past country houses, which succeeded each other
rapidly for five miles. Devaluation display the comfort and
good taste of their owners. The mansion-house, commonly, is
situated about one hundred paces from the entrance, and an
avenue if laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical form,
and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these
houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas
and covered galleries. Back if the elegant mansion-house stand
the negrk cabins, like a camp, and behind the sugarcane
fields, which extend to the marshy cypress woods about a mile
back, called the cypress swamp. Among these country-houses is
a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which the employed
in the education of female youth.
The Battle of New Orleans.
Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of
M'Carthy, now belonging to Me. Montgomery, in whichever
General Jackson had his head quarters. About one hundred laces
father, commences the right if the line, to the defense of
which this general owes great renown. I left the carriage
here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a mile
in length, with the right wing in the rivet, and the left
resting on the cypress swamp.
The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles
distant from General Villaret's dwelling. On the 23d of
December, a company of soldiers attacked this house, and took
two if the general's sons prisoners. The third of his sons
escaped, and brought to General Jackson, whose headquarters
were at the time in the city, the intelligence of the landing
and progress of the British. Immediately the alarm guns were
fired, and the general marched with the few troops and militia
under his command, not two thousand in number, against the
habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves
here, with the intent to attack the city directly, which was
without the least protection. The general advanced along the
line of the woods, and neatly surprised the English. He would
probably have captured them, if he had had time to despatch a
few riflemen through the generally passable cypress swamp to
the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a sudden
fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back,
and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the
river and the cypress swamp, while he took up his headquarters
in the habitation of M'Carthy.
There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next
day some young men of the militias commenced on their own
motion to throw up a little breast-work, with the spades and
shovels they found in the habitation. This suggested to the
general the idea of forming a line here. This line was,
however, the very feeblest an engineer could have devised,
that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to
make the breast work of the requisite height and strength,
since, if the ground gets was dig two feet, water flowed out.
To remedy this evil in some measure, a number of cotton bales
were brought from the ware-houses if the city, and the
breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these bales artillery
was placed, mostly ship's cannon, and they endeavored, by a
redoubt erected on the right wing at the levée, to
render if more susceptible of defense; especially as no time
was to be lost, and the offensive operations of the British
were daily perceptible; still the defensive preparations with
general Jackson could effect were very imperfect. The English
force strengthened itself constantly, they threw up batteries,
widened the canal leading from Villaret's to Lake Borgne, so
as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered
this canal by several detached entrenchments.
A cannonade was maintained by their batteries did several
days on the American line, but they could not reach it, and
had several of their own pieces dismounted by the
well-directed fire of the American artillery. Finally, on the
8th of January, after General Jackson had time to procure
reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen
of Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well
covered by the cotton bales, and each of which had one or two
men behind him, to load the rifles, the English commenced
storming the line, under Sir Edward Packenham's personal
direction. The should in front of the line consisted of
perfectly leveled sugar cane fields, which had been cut down,
not a single tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate
Englishmen, whose force in the field was reckoned at from
eight to ten thousand men, were obliged to advance without ant
shelter, and remain a long time, first under fire of
well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of rifles and
small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect
anything in return against them. The first attack was made
upon the left wing of the line. The British did not reach the
ditch, but began soon to give way. Sir Edward attempted to
lead them on again; cannon shot, however, killed his horse and
wounded him in both his legs. The soldiers carried him off,
but he unluckily received some rifle shots, that put an end to
his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals
Gibbs and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed
and latter mortally wounded. By this the troops, ago had
continually supported a most murderous fire, were at length
obliged completely to give way. Major-general Lambert, who
commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at the period the
whole command of the army devolved, made a last ability to
force the line. He led this troops in a run upon the batture,
between the levée and the river, (which at the time was
very low,) against the right wing of the line, where the small
redoubt was placed, stormed, and took possession of if, but
was forced, by the well-supported fire of the riflemen behind
the line, to evacuate it again. The English colones of
engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the
breast-work, in this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt,
the English retreated to their entrenchments at Villaret's,
and in a few days re-embarked.
During the failure of this principal attack, the English had
conveyed right hundred men to their right shore of the river,
who gained some advantages there against insignificant
entrenchments. These advantages, when they heard of the bad
results if the main attack, they were obliged to abandon, and to
return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right wing, and
the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all
probability General Jackson would have been obliged to
evacuate not only his lines, but the city itself. Providence
surely took the city under its protection; for the English
were promised the plunder of New Orleans in case of success,
as was asserted in that city: General Jackson moreover had
given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up the
powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy
the public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four
corners. The general himself so fully recognized the hand of
Providence in the event, that in the day after his victory, he
expressed himself to Bishop Dubourg thus: that he knew the
city owed its preservation to a merciful Providence alone,
and that his first step should be on his return to the city,
to thank God in his temple did the victory so wonderfully
obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions did a
thanksgiving, and it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere
feeling of gratitude.
From the battle ground to General Villaret's dwelling, we had
three miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry
weather, and the road, which after a hard rain, must be
bottomless, was on that account, hard and good. The
Mississippi has a peculiarity possessed by several streams in
Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret,
was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it
had inclined so much to the right, that it constantly wears
away the soils there, while it forms new deposits to the left.
The general's possessions are therefrom increased, and that
with very good soil. The visit of the English nearly ruined
the general. Their landing on this side was so entirely
unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia
in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove
the least of his property. The English took all the cattle
away, as well as above sixty negroes. There has not been any
intelligence of what was the fate of negroes, probably they
were sold in the West Indies. All the fences, bridges, and
negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was only
spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son
of the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was
obliged to remain in the house the whole home it was retained,
and was very well treated by the English generals and
officers. As the English were on the living of re-embarking,
General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred dollars in
silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the
cattle carried off. The young man went to the city and
delivered the money to his father. General Villaret requested
General Jackson to send a flag to truce on board the English
fleet, to carry the money back to General Lambert, with a
letter from General Villaret. This was done, but the general
never received an answer.
The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the
General, from which, as he told me himself, it cost him much
trouble gradually to recover. The canal or bayou, which ran
from his plantation to Lake Borgue, was shut up by order, of
General Jackson after the retreat of the English, and there
were not labourers sufficient left with General Villaret to
reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the
conveyance of wood and other necessaries.
We found at the general's, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr.
Lavoisne, and several gentlemen from the city, among them
Governor Johnson. We took some walks in the adjacent grounds.
The house was not very large, and was not very much
ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it was a
brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill.
Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins
for the house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were
removed farther off. The whole is surrounded by cane fields,
of which some were then brought in, and others all cut down. A
field of this description must rest fallow for five years, and
be manured, before being again set out in plants. For manure,
a large species of bean is sown, which is left to rot in the
field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is commonly
cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists
of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre on of
which is put in motion, by a horse-mill underneath, so as to
turn the other by crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between
these, and must pass twice through to be thoroughly squeezed
out. The fresh juice thus pressed out, runs through a groove
into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into the kettles,
in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by
evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together,
so as to pour the juice when it boils from one to the other,
and thus faciliate the evaporation of the water. The boiling
in these kettles lasts one hour; one set gives half a hogshead
of brown sugar. In several of the plantations there is a steam
engine employed in place of the horse power:the general's
misfortunes have not yet permitted him to incur this expense.
After dinner we walked in the yard, where we remarked several
Guinea fowls, which are common here, a pair of Mexican
pheasants, and a tame fawn. Before the house stood a number of
lofty nut tress, called peccan tress. At the foot of one, Sir
Edward Packenham's bowels are interred: his body was embalmed
and sent to England. In the fields there are numbers of
English buried, and a place was shown to me where forty
officers alone were laid. We took leave of our friendly host
at sundown, and returned to the city.
On
Shrove Tuesday,
all the ball rooms in the city were
opened. I went to the great masked ball in the French theatre.
The price of admission was raissed to two dollars for a
gentleman, and one dollar for a lady. There was dancing, not
only in the ball room, but also in the theatre itself, and on
this occasion, the
parterre
was raised to a level with the
stage. The illumination of the house was very good, and
presented a handsome view. Many of the ladies were in masks
and intrigued as well as they were able. I could not restrain
my curiosity, and visited the quadroom ball in the theatre of
St. Philippe. It however was too late when I arrived there,
many of the ladies had left the ball, and the gentlemen, a
motly society, were for the most part drunk. This being the
case, I returned after a quarter of an hour to the principal
ball. But here too, some gentlemen had slipped too deep in the
glass, and several quarrels with fists and canes took place.
The police is not strict enough here to prvent gentlemen from
bring canes with them to balls. The balls continue through
lent, when they were but little frequented.
On the 12th of February the intelligence of the death of the
Emperor Alexander was spread abroad, which had been recieved
by the ship Mogul, yesterday arrived from Liverpool, and by
London gazettes of the 24th of December. I could not believe
this to be a fact, and betook myself to the office of one of
the public papers. I was here given the English gazette to
read, and I found, to my no small terror, the detailed account
of this sorrowful event. Consternation entered into my mind,
on refecting what effect this must have produced in Weimar,
and increased my troubled state of feeling!
The volunteer battalion of artillery of this place is a
handsome corps, uniformed as the artillery of the old French
guard. It is above one hundred men strong, and presents a very
military front. This corps maneuvered about half an hour in
the square before the cathedral, and then marched to the City
Hall, to recieve a standard. Upon the right wing of the
battalion, a detachment of flying artillery was placed. The
corps had done essential service on the 8th of January, 1815,
in the defence of the line, and stands here in high respect.
About four miles below the city Mr. Grymes has a
country-seat, or habitation. The house is entirely new, and
situated on a piece of ground formerly employed as a sugar
cane field. The new plantings made in the garden, consisted of
young orange tress and magnolias. Behind the house is an
artificial hill, with a temple upon it, and within the hill
itself, a grotto, arranged artifically with shells. At the the
entrance stands a banana tree, and this, with several creeping
plants, will conceal it very well in summer. I observed in the
garden several singular heaps of carth, which are hollow
within, and stand over a hole in the ground. They are said to
be formed by a species of land crab for their residence. If a
stone be thrown into the hole, you hear that it immediately
falls into water. Generally, in this country, you cannot dig
more than a foot deep in the earth, without meeting water.
It was pure curiosity that carried me a third time to the
masquerade, in St. Philippe's theatre. It was, however, no
more agreeable than the one eight days previous. There were
but few masks; and among the tobacco-chewing gentry, several
Spanish visages slipped about, who carried sword-canes, and
seemed to have no good design in carrying them. Some of these
visiters were intoxicated, and there appeared a willing
disposition for disturbance. The whole aspect was that of a
den of ruffians. I did not remain here a half hour, and
learned next day that I was judicious in going home early, as
later, battle with canes and dirks had taken place. Twenty
persons were more or less dangerously wounded!
It rained very frequently during the first half of the month
of February; in the middle it was warm, and for a time, about
the 20th, an oppressive heat prevailed, which made me quite
lethargic, and operated equally unpleasantly on every one.
Indeed a real sirocco blew at this time. It surprised me very
much, that with such extraordinary weather, not at all
uncommon here, that there should be so many handsome, healthy,
and robust children. This climate, so unhealthy, and almost
mortal to strangers, seems to produce no injurious effect upon
the children born here.
In the vacant space, where the walls of New Orleans formerly
stood, are at present the Esplanade rue des Remparts, and rue
du canal. The city proper forms a parallelogram, and was once
surrounded by a palisade and a ditch. At each of the four
corners stood a redoubt. The last of these redoubts, which
stood at the entrance of the Fauxbourg Marigny, was demolished
only since the last war. It would be important for the
security of the present inhabitants, to have a fortress on the
bank of the river, so that in case of an insurrection of the
negroes, not only the trifling garrison, but the white women
and children should possess a place of refuge, which is now
totally wanting. The ditch is filled up, and planted with
trees; there no buildings newly erected here, and these open
spaces are the worst parts of the city.
On the night of the 22d of Febrary, the alarm bell was
sounded: a fire had broken out in the warehouse of a merchant.
There was time to save every thing, even the wooden building
was not consumed, but in the course of two hours the fire was
extinguished.
On the same day, we celebrated the birth of the great
Washington. All the vessels lying in the river were adorned
with flags, and fired salutes. The volunteer legion of
Louisiana was called out in full uniform, to fire volleys in
honour of the day. The artillery before mentioned, which gave
thirteen discharges from two pieces, distinguished themselves
again by their excellent discipline. The infantry was very
weak, not exceeding fifty men, with a most monstrous standard.
A company of riflemen of thirty men, who had sone good service
on the 8th of January, 1815, appeared very singular in their
costume: it consisted of a skyblue frock and pantaloons, with
white fringe and borders, and fur hoods. This legion was
established in the last war, and considering itself
independent of the militia, it has clothed itself after the
French taste, and is officered by Frenchmen.
In the evening there was a subscription ball, in the
ball-room of the French theatre. This ball was given also, on
account of the festival celebrated this day. In former years,
each person had subscribed ten dollars for this ball; the
saloon had been decorated with Washington's portrait, and a
number of standards, and a splendid supper spread for the
ladies. This year the subscription had been reduced to three
dollars for a ticket, and hardly filled up at that price. It
was attempted to be accounted for, by the critical juncture of
commercial affairs, in which the city placed; the true cause,
however, might be traced to the imcomprehensible want of
attachment among the creoles to the United States. Although
the city of New Orleans, and the whole state of Louisiana, has
benefited extremely by its union with the United States and
daily increases; yet the creoles appear rather to wish their
country should be a French colony, than annexed to the Union.
From their conversations, one would conclude that they do not
regard the Americans as their countrymen. This aversion
certainly will lessen, as the better part of the young people
acquire their scientific education in the northern states; at
this moment, however, it is very powerful. Under this state of
things, Mr. Davis, the manager of the French theatre, the
balls, and several gaming houses, announced a masked ball, at
one dollar admission, for Washington's birth-night. The young
ladies, however, to whom a subscription ball was in
anticipation, and on account of it had prepared a fresh set of
ornaments, to assist their toliet, felt themselves exceedingly
dissapointed by this arrangement; as there would be a very
mixed company at the masked ball, and they would not be able
to distinguish themselves by individual ornament. For this
reason, their parents and relations had exerted themselves,
and happily brought it to pass, that instead of a ticket ball,
there shoud be one by sucscription. In fact, this ball was
very splendid, so far as the dress of the ladies contributed
there to. Moreover, no battles took place.
In the neighbourhood of the city, some Choctaw Indians
hunted, and lived a wandering life. They frequently resorted
to the city to sell the produce of their hunting, also canes,
palmetto baskets, and many other articles. The money for these
was afterwards consumed in liquor. They are of very dark
colour, have coats made of woollen blankets; wear mocassins,
and undressed leather leggings, necklaces of checkered glass
beads, with a large shell in the form of a collar, silver
rings in the nose and ears, and smooth copper rings on the
wrists. The children until four years old are quite naked;
only wearing mocassins, leggings, and the rings round the
wrists.
In a tavern on the Levée, there was a collection of fossil
bones, which had been dug out of a swamp, not far from the
mouth of the Mississippi, the preceding year, and must have
have belonged to a colossal amphibious animal. The single
piece of the spine remaining appeared to be that of a whale: a
single rib however, also found, was too much curved ever to
have been the rib of a whale. The largest piece of those that
were dug up, appeared to be a jaw bone. Unfortunately I
understand too little of these things, to be able to venture
upon a description of these remarkable remains of an
apparently antideluvian animal; certainly it would be worth
the trouble of having them examined and described by a
scientific person. Two of the bones appeared to have belonged
to the legs, and from these alone, some would determine, that
the animal was a crocodile. I was informed at this time--I
say, with Herodotus, that I only now what others have told
me, and perhaps some may either believe it, or know it,--I was
told that a perfect skeleton of a mammoth was collected years
ago in one of the meadows, on the banks of the Mississippi, not
far from its mouth, and was conveyed to London, and that very
old inhabitants had heard as a tradion from their ancestors,
that this mammoth had been thrown ashore by the sea, part
rotted, and in part was devoured by the buzzards.
There is no particular market day in New Orleans, as in other
places, but every morning market is open for all kinds of
vegatables, fruits, game, &c. This market is very well
provided on Sunday, as the slaves have permisssion to offer
for sale on this day all they desire to dispose of.
I visited Captain Harney of the first regiment of infantry,
who in the year 1825, as lieutenant to General Atkinson; had
accompanied the expedition to Yellow Stone river, and had
brought back with him several of the curiosities of those
western regions, so little known. These curiosities consisted
of a variety of skins of bears, for example, of the grizzled
bear, also skins of buffalo, foxes, of a white wolf, (which is
a great rarity,) of a porcupine,
whose quills are much shorter than those of the African
species, and of wild cats. Besides these, Mr Harney has
procured pieces of Indian habiliments, coats and leggings made
of deer skin. The warriors among these Indians wear the mark
of their dignity — the scalps — on the leggings, those of the
inferior grade on one leg, those higher, on both. The coats
are made with a checkered sewing, ornamented partly with glass
beads, and partly with split porcupine quills. The Indian
women, who are designated by the universal name of squaw, work
these ornaments very ingeniously. Mr. Harney showed me also a
quiver made of cougar's skin with different sorts of arrows, a
bow of elk's horn, strung with tendons drawn from the elk;
several tobacco pipes, with heads of serpentine stone, of
which I had seen some on Lake Ontario already, hunting
pouches, a head dress of eagle's feathers for the great chief
of the Crow nation, a set of the claws of the grizzled bear,
which also were worn for ornament, and a tomahawk of flint
with a variety of bunches of human hair: for every time a
warrior has killed his enemy with his tomahawk, he fastens a
bunch of his hair, with a piece of the scalp on his weapon. He
farther showed me a pipe made of a sheep's rib, adorned with
glass beads, upon which the Indians blow all the time they are
engaged in a fight, as as not to loose themselves in the
woods; a spoon made of the horn of a wild mountain ram;
various minerals, and among them petrified wood, which is
found in great quantities in that western region; serpentine,
and other curiosities. The coats of the squaws are trimmed
with long thin strips of leather, on one of these a bunch of
yellow moss and grass was tied, which the Indians regard as a
sort of amulet or talisman.
On the 28th of February, in the forenoon, I went with Mr.
Huygens to pay General Villaret a visit at his country-house.
A pretty strong west wind moderated the great heat outside of
the city; within it, the thermometer of Fahrenheit had stood
at eighty-one degress in the shade. Most of the fruit trees
were in blossom. Every where we saw fresh green and bloom; all
was fresh and lively. In a sugar-cane field, there were oats a
foot and a half high, cut as green fodder. The general and his
son were occupied in managing the labours of the field. We
went with them to walk in the garden. The soil is very
fruitful, that, however, is the most so, which is reclaimed
from the swamp of the Mississippi, or the Bayou. In this soil,
nevertheless the germ of a real land plague, the coco, as it
is called, shows itself, the same which was made use of on the
continent of Europe, as a substitue for coffee, during the
existence of the vexatious continental system. This knotty
growth is principally found in the mud; and one lump or knot
of it multiplies itself so extremely quick, that it kills all
the plants growing near it, and covers the whole field, in
which it has taken root. It is very difficult to extirpate,
since the smallest knot, that remains in the earth, serves for
the root of a new plant, and several hundred new knots. The
legislature of Louisiana, has offered a considerable reward to
whoever shall succeed in the discovery of an efficient remedy
against this pest of the soil. No one has yet obtained the
desired object.
The general explained to me, the manner in which the
sugarcane fields were managed. Parallel furrows are made
through them at intervals of three feet. In these furrows, the
cane is laid lengthwise, and covered with earth. Some planters
lay two cane joints together, others content themselves with
but one. The end of the successive piece of cane, is so placed,
that it lies about six inches above the end of the first. From
each joint of the cane, there shoot up new sprouts, and form
new stalks. In St. Domingo, there is another method of
arranging the cane field. The field is digged in square holes,
placed checkerwise at the distance of three feet apart, in
which four pieces of cane are laid in the square and then
covered up. This method is judged the best.
The tragedy of Marie Stuart by Le Brun from Schiller, and a
vaudeville, la Demoiselle et la Dame, were produced at the
theatre, to which I went. The first piece was announced at the
request of several American families, of course there were
numbers of ladies of that nation in the boxes. The tragedy of
Le Brun is changed very little from that by Schiller; it is
only curtailed, and two parts, those of Shrewsbury and
Mellvil, are thrown into one. Many scenes in it particularly
the meeting of the two queens, is translated almost word for
word. Madam Clozel undertook the part of Marie Stuart, and
supported it from beginning to end in a masterly style; but
she was not properly supported. Nevertheless, the piece met
with great approbation. Unluckily, however, the machinery was
not in order. At the close of the piece, when Leicester falls
in the greatest distraction into the arms of an officer of the
guard, the curtain could not be lowered, and several minutes
elapsed, before poor Leicester could leave his painful
attitude. On this account the audience made known their
displeasures by hissing, which marred very much the effect
produced by the piece.
A representation of Hamlet, in the French theatre was
uncommonly well attended. The Colombian Commodore Jolly, who
had brought a brig of his nation into New Orleans, appeared in
uniform, and drew the attention of the public upon himself,
partly by his dress, and partly by his huge dress hat, with a
white feather. The next morning I made acquaintance with the
commodore, and with his two officers, of whom is a Colombian,
and the other an Englishman by birth. The commodore had also
taken up his quarters with Madam Herries; he is a Frenchman,
fifty-six years of age, of which he has passed forty in the
West Indies. I carried him and the two officers to visit
Governor Johnson, and also Bishop Dubourg. The latter appeared
very much flattered by this visit. On going away, the Englishman
kissed the Bishop's hand.
He, the bishop,
expressed his surprise at recieving this testimony of respect
from a protestant; to which the officer replied, that this
reverence was paid to the episcopal ring. Mr. Dubourg, indeed,
wore a costly amethyst on his finger, as a representation of
the fisher's ring.
For some days back the weather had become oppressively warm,
like the heat of summer. Several persons who were not
accustomed to this degree of heat, found themselves unwell;
it, however, agreed with me. After a while considerable
showers of rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning took
place. The consequence of this was, in one way, that the mud
became excessively deep in the streets, but on the other hand,
the river began to rise, which occasioned great joy in the
city. Numbers of steam-boats, and flat-boats were looked for,
with provisions from the western states, as they began to grow
scarce and dear.
An acquaintance very dear to me, and of which I shall always
preserve a grateful remembrance, was that which I made with
Baron Marigny, a creole by birth, and one of the most
distinguished inhabitants of the state. One of the suburbs of
New Orleans was laid out by his father, and bears his name; at
the entrance of it, he lives in a mansion-house, erected with
taste and splendour. Never shall I forget the happy days,
which I passed in the circle of his amiable family. During the
troubles of the French revolution, the then duke of Orleans,
found a refuge and active assistance with M. Marigny. After
sometime, this gentleman made a voyage to France, and was well
received by the duke, I saw at his house, a coffee-set of
French china, which he had recieved from him as a present. The
cups contained the well executed portraits of the duke, the
dutchess, and their nine children, and upon the larger pieces
were views of the palais royal, and of the castle and park in
Neuilly. The Baron Marigny, also had in his possession a very
fine portrait of the duke, painted by Augustin, in Paris;
likewise an engraving representating him, as he supported
himself during his exile in Switzerland, by giving lessons in
the mathematics.
On the 11th of March, in a small company of ladies and
gentlemen, I saw a cosmorama, which was set up here. It is
known generally, to be a sort of prospect, given by being in a
dark room, and beholding various objects, through glasses of
different magnifying powers. This cosmorama contained ten
views of different places, which are changed every week. Some
views of East Indian antiquities, and remarkable buildings,
were well displayed, as also, a representation of a hall in
the former prisons of the Inquisition at Goa, not so good; and
a couple of views in Japan and Macao, in China. The
examination of all the objects, detained us until evening. We
then accompanied the ladies home, they lived in a
country-house, a mile below the Fauxbourg Marigny, on the
Levée. It was eight o'clock as we descended the
Levée; the evening was clear, with star-light; the
bustle in the harbour had ceased; we only remarked on board of
some ships the sailors collected on the deck, under an
illuminated awning, where the captain held evening divine
service. Precisely at eight o'clock, the retreat-gun fired at
the City Hall, which is the signal for the negroes to return
home, immediately after, the two Colombian brigs fired, the
drums and bugles sounded the retreat, while the barracks of
the infantry did the same. All this, added to the lighted
ships, and the solitary gleams from the opposite side of the
river, made an impression upon me, which I cannot venture to
describe. The wretched miry way, inwhich we nearly stuck fast,
was almost forgotten. One of the gentlemen accompanying us,
had the politeness to send me home in his chaise. This was a
pleasant attention to me, for there are drunken sailors, and
fellows of the lower class, (which are called here, as in
Mexico, Guichinangos,) in great numbers here, and as these
creatures have a strong propensity to street-robbing and
stabbing, it is not very prudent to be alone ona dark evening,
upon this deserted road.
In an excursion to the country-house of Mr. David Urquhart, I
observed the great injury done by the coco, before alluded to,
in his garden; it covered both the walks and beds, from which
daily industry will not root it out. In the vegetable garden,
I found most kinds of those used in Europe, the pegs were as
large on the 13th of March, as they are in Flanders on the
beginning of June; we ate of green peas full three weeks ago.
The melons are first deposited in beds of manure, to force
them for earlier use, and when they begin to sprout, are
planted afresh in the field. The soil is so rich, that it does
not require manure. I noticed several fruit trees of various
kinds, but was informed, that the fruit produced by them, on
account of the intense heat of summer, would not be of good
quality.
The brig Arcturus arrived on the 14th of March from Boston,
with a cargo of ice. This article is very conducive to comfort
in a warm climate, but it is exceedingly difficult to preserve
it. Where there is water every where two feet below the
surface of the earth, of course, ice-vaults are impracticable.
The cargo which now arrived, was thrown into a large brick
building, and it was asserted that it would keep there till
winter. I examined the construction of this building. A
coffer, made of strong thick planks, and some forty feet in
height, is provided with a small opening under the roof.
Through this opening the ice is thrown in, and again taken out
for use. About the coffer there is carried a brick wall, and
the vacant space between the wall and the planks of the
coffer, which is about two feet, is filled up with a mixture
of shavings and saw-dust, which resists the influence of the
exterior warm atmosphere.
A great quantity of drift timber was floating on the river,
even huge trees. Negroes were busied in small canoes in
collecting it, as it serves the residents on the Levée
for firewood. The largest part of it, however, is again
carried into the Atlantic ocean, and driven upon the shores of
Iceland and Greenland, where it serves to warm the miserable
inhabitants of those inhospitable countries.
On the 17th of March, I accompanied Commodore Jolly to the
criminal court, before which he was cited. The cause thereof
was as follows: — The year previous, a Colombian corvette had
arrived at New Orleans, from which several sailors deserted.
One of theses sailors, an Indian, native of Maracaybo, had
hired himself has a servant at a Spanish grog-shop, and came
on board the Pichincha, Commodore Jolly's brig, to visit his
old comrades and induce several to desert. He was recognised
as a deserter, and as such arrested. The Spaniard, with whom
the sailor Ramirez had served, laid his complaint before the
criminal court, and the commodore was cited to appear. The
Spaniard had employed two lawyers, a Frenchman, named Canonge,
and an old Spaniard, Rodriguez, who defended the cause of the
sailor, and laboured to prove the commodore's proceedings to
be illegal. The pleading of the Frenchman was full of common
place and far-fetched haranguing. Mr. Rodriguez explained his
arguments more logically, through by his Spanish accent he
excited great merriment among the audience. The commodore had
no counsel, wherefore a Mr. Morel was assigned to him as such,
who, as he had no time for preparation, requested the
postponement of the cause to the following day. This request
was granted.
On the next day, we again visited the criminal court. I was
apprized that several Spaniards had combined, and promised
five hundred dollars for the setting Ramirez at liberty. They
had employed Mr. Davezac as their third advocate. The
officers, some petty officers, and one seaman, of the two
brigs, were heard as witnesses. These proved in the fullest
manner, that the sailor had deserted from the corvette Ourika
last year. The Spaniards produced opposing witnesses. These
contradicted each other so vilely in their declarations, that
they were soon held back, so as not to be involved in a charge
of perjury as false witnesses. By this opportunity I learnt,
that it was considered difficult among the Spaniards here to
obtain a witness for the sum of eight dollars, to say any
thing in evience that was required. And yet that is more than
such a complacent witness costs in some other countries. The
lawyers put such strange questions to the Colombian witnesses,
and particularly to the seamen, (as for instance, in what
manner was he enlisted, what was his pay, and how he was paid,
how he was fed and treated?) that the judge called them to
order several times. Mr. Morel conducted his defence very
well, and successfully combated the arguments produced by his
antagonists. He then laid down the principle which certainly
is a very just one, that the person who is on board of a
vessel of war, is within the limits and jurisdiction of that
government to which the vessel may belong. Upon this principle
the commodore necessarily must gain his suit, and this he did
in a very satisfactory manner.
After the disposal of this cause, on the 17th of March
another one was taken up. A resident lawyer, named Lloyd,
whose reputation stood very low, had, on the preceding day,
insulted the presiding Judge Turner in the street, for which
reason the judge had him taken in custody by the sheriff, and
thrown into prison. The injured judge presided in his own
suit, and in this manner was both judge and party. I was
informed that Mr. Turner was insulted in his individual
capacity, but that he decided as a judge in the name of the
state of Louisiana. This explanation did not satisfy me, the
distinction between person and his office, may be correct in
theory it is, however, very hardly so in practice; and on this
account, the proceeding to me appeared arbitrary. It appreared
unfair also to me, that the judge was not assisted by a jury.
Farther, Mr. Lloyd wished to defend his own cause, he was,
however, half intoxicated, and attacked the judge so grossly
from time to time, that he ordered him frequently to be
silent. The examination of the witnesses consumed so much
time, that was obliged to leave the court before the
termination of the case. I heard afterwards that Mr. Lloyd had
been adjudged, to provide two sureties for his good behaviour,
during one year, each in a penalty of one thouand dollars, and
since he was not able to find these securities immediately, to
be remanded to prison.
On the same day, Mr. Bowdoin left us, and embarked on board
the steam-boat George Washington, bound to Louisville:
afterwards to return to New York. I accompanied him on board
of the boat, and had an opportunity of observing her most
excellent accomodations. The part devoted to lodging
passengers, is built like a house in a boat. The lower deck,
or deck on which the engine is placed, is occupied by what are
called deck-passengers, those who pay a lower prece, —
there are
cot frames suspended for them, but if there should be too
many, the last comers must of course sleep on the deck. Above
this, is the principal cabin, the passage in which to
Louisville costs fifty dollars. Here is a handsome saloon
lighted from above, in the centre and on each side are
enclosed staterooms, each with two births, one over the other.
Behind this is the ladies cabin, which can be so joined to it
by the opening of two folding doors, that both apartments may
be thrown into one at pleasure. Around this principal deck,
runs a broad and lofty gallery, for the convenience of
travellers. Above the cabin, is the deck also covered with a
roof, where cotton, other articles, and deck-passengers find
accommodation. For such as smoke tobacco, there is a separate
apartment provided, in which they enjoy this acquired habit,
without incommoding the other passengers, or the ladies
thereby. For the use of travellers, there is likewise a
library provided on board. The elevated position of the cabin
is very agreeable, because one is not annoyed by the engine;
moreover in case a boiler should burst, he is exposed to less
danger, as the explosion can only direct a fatal force along
the lower deck. There were a pretty large number of passengers
on board; the vessel sailed about half after four o'clock, P.
M. and presented a majestic appearance in her progress.
On the 19th of March, at nine o'clock, I went with Mr.
Huygens, and a Mr. Author Andry, to his brother Michael
Andry's habitation, about eleven miles distant from the city
below, situated on the right bank of the Mississippi. The road
carried us over the field of battle, and past the habitation
of General Villaret: about two miles farther on, we stopped at
the habitation of Jumonville, left the carriage and embarked
in one of Mr. Andry's ferry-boats, sent over for us, manned by
seven negroes, and crossed the river. There was much drift wood
collected on the left bank, through which we worked our way
with difficulty. Then we had also both wind and current
against us, and had to keep guard against the floating trunks
of trees. We spent three quarters of an hour in this passage.
We landed at a large field of clover, belonging to Mr. Andry,
and through the garden reached his large and handsome
mansion-house, two stories high, with a piazza and very broad
gallery, which is defended from the beat of the sun by large
curtains extended from pillar to pillar. Her Mr. Andry
received us.
Not long after our arrival, we went to the sugar-mills,
behind the mansion-house, near the negro-quarter. The mill, in
which the cyliners lie horizontally, is set in motion by a
steam-engine of twelve horse-power, made in Liverpool by
Faucett. The juice from the cane flows into the boiling-house,
in which there are ten kettles. Mr. Andry directs himself all
the operations, and while the mill is at work resides in a
small room not far from the engine. He has the reputation of
being very severe to his negroes. Whether this imputation be
just or not, I could not decide, but twelve years ago an
insurrection of the slaves broke out at his habitation, in
which one of his brothers was murdered, and his father
received three severe wounds with an axe. The garden here was
not well kept. Scientific gardeners are very difficult to be
procured here. Some years before two ships arrived with German
emigrants, who were sold to defray the price of their passage.
There were several gardeners among them. These men very soon
extricated themselves themselves from their dependent
situation, and part of them established themselves; but the
rest fell a sacrifice to the noxious climate. As the term of
their service was limited to a few years, their masters did
not give themselves much trouble to reclaim the runaways. Mr.
Andry's garden was surrounded by a thick hedge of orange
trees, and contained many magnolias, orange trees, myrtles,
jasmines, &c. We returned to the left bank about eleven
o'clock at night, and our carriage conveyed us through the
beautiful, mild moonlight, back to New Orleans in an hour.
In the American theatre, "Der Freischutz" was presented
under the title of the "Black Huntsman of Bohemia." This
drama, so universally known and admired, and which has
followed me even in America like an evil genius, (since
detached pieces of it were sung and played in almost all
companies,) I had never yet witnessed. Determined not to
remain longer in the rear of the age, I therefore went to the
theatre. The orchestra was very weak and badly filled, hardly
any of the performers could sing; I was told that the
handsomest pieces of music are either abridged or entirely
omitted. The decorations, nevertheless, were tolerably good, I
found the boxes and galleries thronged. In the pit there were
but few spectators, and these consisted of sailors and
countrymen from Kentucky, who made themselves quite at ease on
the benches, and cracked nuts during the finest pieces of
music; a custom I have noticed in all English theatres, and
from which my tobacco-chewing neighbours in the boxes did not
refrain. The theatre is newly erected, and is arranged not
untastefully. It contains, besides the pit a parquet, three
rows of galleries as the French theatre; the boxes are only
divided by low balustrades, so that you look out as if from a
balcony; the second gallery is destined for the reception of
coloured spectators, among whom I saw not a single female, and
in the upper gallery the mob and women of the town sit. The
saloon is lit with gas, and has a very tasteful girandole. I
remained but for a short time.
One witnesses almost daily examples of the degrading
treatment which the poor negroes experience. I should say
nothing of it, but one particular scene, which roused my
indignation in the highest manner, on the 22d of March, I
cannot suffer to pass in silence. There was a young Virginian
female slave in our boarding-house, employed as a chamber
maid, a cleanly, attentive, quiet, and very regular
individual. A Frenchman residing in the house, called, in the
morning early, for water to wash. As the water was not
instantly brought to him, he went down the steps, and
encountered this poor girl, who just then had some other
occupation in hand. He struck her immediately with the fist,
in the face, so that blood ran from her forehead. The poor
creature, roused by this unmerited abuse, put herself on her
defence, and caught the Frenchman by the throat. He screamed
for help, but no one would interfere. The fellow then ran to
his room, gathered his things together, and designed to leave
the house. But when our landlady, Madam Herries, was informed
of this in order to satisfy the wretch she disgraced herself
by having twenty-six lashes inflicted upon the poor girl with
a cowhide, and refined upon her cruelty so much, that she
forced the sweetheart of the girl, a young negro slave, who
waited in the house, to count off the
lashes upon her.
The river was progressively on the rise: the level of the
water already higher than the land. It still brought down
great quantities of draft timber with it. It was said, that
about three days before, an uncommonly long and thick
rattlesnake had been caught upon a tree that had been fished
out. It was killed by a stroke of an axe, and had eighteen
rattles on its tail. From this it was concluded that
extraordinary inundations had taken place in the upper
countries.
In order to pay my farewell visit to Mr. and Madam Andry, I
crossed the Mississippi river in a little boat, and it
occupied me full three-quarters of an hour to gain the right
bank. It required a quarter of an hour alone to pass through
the drift wood, which had collected on the shore. We were
compelled, nevertheless, to direct our course parallel with
the bank, for if we had attained the main current, it would
have swept us down with great force. In addition to this, we
experienced a real equinoctial tempest, so that the passage
was far from being comfortable. I hired a horse upon the
opposite bank, and rode in less than an hour to Mr. Andry's
habitation, ten miles distance. The horses here are trained to
a small gallop or canter, which is upon the whole not
fatiguing, and carries you speedily. The storm had driven off
in a thunder-squall, I felt but the beginning of it, and
reached the habitation just at the right time. I galloped back
again about five o'clock in the evening, under a beautiful
clear sky. The road ran partly on the levée, partly
along side of it. The land is chiefly cane-fields, and thence
to the Lake Barataria. These canals are intended principally
for the carriage of wood. The young sprouts of the sugar cane
made their appearance above ground, and the negroes were
employed in weeding it. The passage over the river was shorter
this evening than in the morning, it lasted an half hour.
Dr. Herman showed me, at my farewell visit to him, besides
his library, the claws and head of an alligator, which he had
shot on the lake Barataria. The teeth of this reptile are
indeed very long, but they do not appear to be fixed firmly
in, but are hollow, and seem as if the animal changed them
periodically; for in the cavities of several teeth, which had
appeared to leave no roots, you see young teeth pushing forth.
Below the under jaw, the alligator has two little glands,
which have a strong odour of musk. The Doctor has dried these
glands, and hung them up in that state for several years, yet
still they impart a strong musky smell. The alligator perhaps
may avail himself of this substance to benumb the fish which
come within his reach, and then swallow them.
Bishop Dubourg, whom I have often visited during my residence
in this place, received me one day in his library, which
contains besides theological works, many books of science and
belle lettres. I remarked a perfect set of the French
Encyclopéie, and complimented the bishop upon it, and
expressed my surprise that he should have been able to
purchase this work so complete in this country. The worthy man
related with a smile how he had acquired it. As he was
travelling through Flanders in 1816 and 1817, in company with
the Bishop Prince de Broglio, he formed an acquaintance with a
gentleman and his daughter, well known for their bigotry. The
latter, a great admirer of books, told him confidingly, that
she experienced great scruples on account of keeping in her
library the Encyclopédie, in which so many wicked
things were contained in opposition to the church. She
inquired of him whether she had not better throw this shocking
book into the fire? He himself being a great book fancier and
having observed that the work was complete, forbid this pious
proceeding, and told her that if she would commit it to his
custody, he would provide against its proving prejudicial. In
this manner he saved this expensive work from destruction, and
thereby enriched his own library.
CHAPTER XX.
Travels up the Mississippi from New Orleans to St. Louis,
and to St. Charles, on the Missouri.
AFTER a stay of nine weeks, I at length left New Orleans, on
the 26th of March, with the most grateful feelings towards its
inhabitants, who had received me in a friendly and
affectionate manner, and had made this winter so extremely
agreeable to me. Never shall I forget what the families of
Messrs. Grymes, Urquhart and Andry, did for my benefit, and
with what cordiality and true hospitality they acted towards
me. The Baron de Marigny has, however, merited the most from
my hands, and since he has it in prospect to leave America,
and settle himself in Europe, I trust yet once more to have it
in my power to exhibit my gratitude to him otherwise than by
words. The real creoles are, upon the whole, a warmhearted
generation, and the people with whom I was least pleased here,
were the Americans, who are mostly brought only by the desire
of accumulating wealth. The Germans in Louisiana, unhappily
rank behind even the Irish. They are mostly a lazy race, not
distinguished for their morality, and very different from
their countrymen in Pennsylvania, who, on account of their
moral and industrious characters, are universally respected,
and are worthy of this high regard.
Since my landing in Boston, on the 26th July, to my reaching
New Orleans, I had travelled the distance of four thousand two
hundred and seventy-five English miles. I entered now upon
another great journey. I designed to go from here to St Louis,
thence through the states of Illinois, Indiana and Ohio to
Pittsburgh, thence through Pennsylvania by Philadelphia to New
York. Here I proposed, with God's help, to embark for
Liverpool, in the month of June.
About ten o'clock in the morning, I repaired from the Levée
on board the steam-boat Phoenix, bound for St. Louis, and
immediately left the shore. Eight steam-boats ascended the
river on the same day. Ours was the finest of this number. She
was not large and had proportionately a too powerful and
dangerous high pressure engine. This communicated to the
vessel such a violent shock, that it was hardly possible to
write. Mr. Huygens was still my travelling companion; and I
found to my great satisfaction, a new and very welcome one in
M. Hottinguer, the son of a banker in Paris, whom I had known
in New York, and who was now desirous of viewing the western
states on his return to Europe. The remaining passengers, only
three in number, were inhabitants of St. Genevieve, not far
from St. Louis, in the state of Missouri. The day was very
beautiful; the city, as well as the extensive suburb of St.
Marie, afforded a very picturesque view. What a pity that the
shores are so very low. It is hard to determine where the
suburb St. Marie ends, the houses gradually stand farther
apart, until they are confounded with the sugar plantations,
of which we observed a good many on both banks of the river,
and some ornamented with very convenient dwelling houses. The
banks are highly cultivated, behind the fields, however, the
cypress woods are seen to commence. Towards the afternoon,
something broke in the engine, and we had to lie by for
repairs, about three hours. We heard music on the
plantations, as the negroes were allowed to amuse themselves
on this first day of the Easter holy-days. So much timber
drove down the stream, that our engine was frequently stopped,
to prevent the buckets of the wheels from being injured by
floating trunks of trees.
Our accommodations consisted of a cabin with sixteen births;
behind this were two ladies cabins, of which, as there were no
ladies on board, we took possession, so that we might be
located at the greatest possible distance from the engine. We
met three steam-boats, and several keel and flat boats, which
were laden with cotton, meal in barrels, bacon, hams, birds,
&c.
We passed the whole night without receiving any damage,
although we suffered some heavy blows from floating trunks of
trees. The next day the dwellings were more scattered, all of
them, as well as the sugar-cane fields about them, appeared in
good condition. The banks on both sides we found mostly
covered with wood; the cypress had ceased, and green-leaved
trees, such as ash and poplar took their place. At first the
shore was very low, and we could observe from the marks on the
trees left by the water, that at a high stage of it the
surrounding country must be overflowed. Towards midday we
passed the small town of Baton Rouge, which lies upon a
height, and may contain about twelve hundred inhabitants. It
was the first town we had noticed. In passing, I remarked upon
the eminence two brick barracks, two stories high, and good
looking, which are inhabited during the summer by the garrison
of New Orleans, on account of their healthy situation. Baton
Rouge is one hundred and thirty-one miles distant from New
Orleans, and owes its name to an ancient Indian trunk of a
tree, which was so denominated by the first French settlers.
We did not stop here, but made our first halt after sunset, at
Bayou Sara, one hundred and sixty-three miles from New
Orleans, for an hour, to take in wood for the engine. Above
Baton Rouge the banks were steep, especially the left. Such
solitary elevations are termed here bluffs. The islands in the
Mississippi are numbered as they occur from the junction of
the Ohio down. The last is No. 97, we came this day up above
No. 94, and found all these intermediate islands low and
covered with wood. Towards the rising of the sun, we had
passed by at the mouth of the Bayou la Fourche, the little
town of
Donaldsonville,
where as it is said, the seat of
government of Louisiana will be established. We saw three
large alligators lying on the shore sunning themselves, the
largest must have been from six to eight feet long. The
weather was fine the whole day.
We did not lie by again in the evening, but went on through
the night, and still received several blows from the drift
wood.
The next morning produced nothing novel; some tortoises only
passed us, sailing on pieces of wood. The river made many and
considerable windings. The banks are every where woody, and
for the most part so low, that from the water-marks on the
trees, they must be inundated at high freshes. There were
several high bluffs on the left bank, of which those called
Loftus Heights, appear to be the most remarkable. There is a
small settlement there called Fort Adams, from a fort that
formerly stood here. Scattered, but considerable plantations,
are situated on the shores. The sugar plantations have ceased,
and the cotton fields have taken their place. We stopped at
one of these plantations to take in wood; I embraced this
opportunity to land, and look round about me in the
neighbourhood of the plantation. The soil appeared to be of a
dark colour, and very productive. The trees were chiefly of
ash and poplar, of which one was sixteen feet in
circumference. Upon
all the trees, wild vines branched aloft, partly from thick
trunks; also many locust trees grew about here. In the garden
of the plantation, there stood a large bush of the champagne
rose, as it is called, which appeared very beautiful, as it
was in full bloom, and diffused a delicious odour. The raising
of bees was carried on at this plantation. The vegetation was
as far advanced almost, as it is in Germany about June. The
right bank of the stream still belongs to Louisiana, the left
side however, is in Mississippi. Before we reached Fort Adams,
we saw to the left of us the broad Red river, emptying itself
into the Mississippi two hundred and thirty-two miles from New
Orleans.
I take the liberty of inserting the following account of this
river, which is given in the "Western Navigator," a work which
is published with charts of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers:
"The Red river falls into the Mississippi a little to the
south of the thirty-first degree of north latitude. At its
mouth it is about five hundred yards wide, and its general
breadth is between two hundred and fifty and three hundred
yards. The main branch of this majestic stream rises in the
Mexican range of mountains eastward from
Santa Fé, in nearly
the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude. It flows about one
hundred miles in a north-eastern direction, unites itself with
another broad branch coming from the north-west, makes then a
great circuit towards the south-east, and follows this
direction to the Mississippi for the distance of fifteen
hundred miles. The country about the lower half of the Red
river is pretty well examined, and found equal to the other
part of Louisiana in fertility, except about fifty miles from
the Mississippi, which district is exposed to annual
inundations. The cotton and the tobacco raised about
Natchitoches and at the Rapids, are of the best quality, and
command the highest prices. Besides many small craft, the
trade employs several steam-boats at Natchitoches. The bed and
shores of this river consists of clear red sand, mixed with
clay and gravel, the same colour is imparted to the water."
On the morning of the 29th March we reached Natchez, and made
a stop of some hours, to repair a leaky boiler. I employed
this leisure in writing some letters of thanks to New Orleans.
This occupied so much of my time, that I was not able to look
about in Natchez. Several of our company did so, and informed
me that the city was regularly and well built, and situated
upon an eminence on the left bank of the river, removed a
short mile back from it. Upon the bank itself, are some few
streets of wooden houses, with shops for provisioning and
supplying the steam-boats, which mostly make this a station.
Back of these streets, rises a sand-hill, upon which the city
stands, and a very laborious ascent through deep sand carries
one there. Natchez is two hundred and ninety-eight miles
distant from New Orleans.
At half past eight o'clock we proceeded: the banks were very
low, and bluffs were to be seen only now and then on the left
side. Only one solitary plantation on a hill covered with
grass appeared well cultivated. It was situated upon a point
called Petit gulf, where the river makes a remarkable bend,
and is three hundred and forty miles from New Orleans. Besides
this, we took notice of several little plantations which are
exposed to inundations, and have only wretched log-houses.
They are fixed there by poor people, who seek to acquire
property in this unhealthy district. We stopt at two of this
kind of plantations to take in wood, and I went ashore both
times for exercise. At one of these places, the owner had put
fire to all the trees that were not hewn down, to make the
land arable, and to change the wood into cotton fields. The
day passed over in the same way: our travelling party was
increased by a woman from St Louis, who had waited for us with
her three children at one of the plantations. She was the wife
of a mechanic in St. Louis, who also was engaged in trade,
having been to Santa Fe, in Mexico, and from there had brought
mules for sale to the state of Alabama. He appeared to have
staid away rather too long; his wife, and her three little
children, had travelled after him, but not being able to find
him, she now returned home.
During the night we passed the little town of Warrenton, on
the left bank of the river, three hundred and ninety-eight
miles from New Orleans, and afterwards another, on an eminence
on the same shore, called Walnut Hills, ten miles farther.
About midday, on the 30th of March, we passed the mouth of the
Yazoo.
Concerning this river, the Western Navigator makes the
following remarks:?" The Yazoo rises in the state of Georgia,
takes a south-westerly direction, meanders through a fertile
country, and empties itself into the Mississippi, in the
latitude of 32° 30'. At its mouth it is about one
hundred and thirty yards wide."
The country was again very monotonous, low banks, partly
covered with water, covered thickly with trees, of which the
fresh green leaves were very much hidden by the disagreeable
Spanish moss: some inconsiderable plantations, where cotton
and Indian corn were raised, and the dwelling-houses,
miserable little log-cabins, which are built on a sort of
grate, on account of the overflowing water. We stopt at one of
these places for wood, on the left bank. The labourers
discovered among the wood prepared for them, a snake two feet
long, green and yellow striped, with a white belly. They
considered it poisonous, and killed it; I believe, however,
that it was not, for at a dinner in the habitation of Mr.
Andry, the sons of our host brought a similar snake, which he
had found in the garden, into the chamber, and I permitted it,
(to the terror of the ladies,) to creep into my sleeve upon
the naked skin. Although the head of this snake had been cut
off, yet the body still had life, and wound itself so fast
upon my finger with the tail that I could carry it a
considerable distance. There are many bears in the woods
here, as the wife of the planter assured me, which make great
havoc among the hogs of the inhabitants, but do not attack
men. The islands in the river are very low, and covered thick
with timber.
The weather had become cold, on the 31st of March it became
warmer. Nothing new! woody shores, high trees, poplars and
sycamores, with large creeping plants, mostly of wild vines,
and here and there tall cane. We passed several low islands,
which, as well as a distance on both shores, were overflowed,
also some solitary, mean, and miserable dwellings. The left
bank of the river still is in the limits of the state of
Mississippi, the right thus far is in Arkansas Territory; of
which Little Rock on the Arkansas river is the principal
place, at which many emigrants from the eastern states have
settled themselves. About ten o'clock at night we reached the
mouth of the Arkansas. Of this, the "Western Navigator" speaks
as follows: —
This very beautiful river is about three hundred
and sixty yards wide, at its mouth it is said to be fifteen
hundred miles long. It rises at forty degrees north latitude
in the Mexican mountains, between the river La Platte on the
one side, and the Rio del Norte on the other. "This river, (as
Stoddart writes,) has a rocky bed, and the navigation of it is
much impeded by rapids and shoals. The extensive country
through which it rolls, is diversified by some mountains,
numerous elevations, and fruitful vallies, especially along
the water-courses; by scattered groves and copses of wood, and
by prairies or natural meadows of great extent, where immense
flocks of various kinds of wild animals resort to graze."
The pilot was obliged to be very careful here, since several
dangerous
"snags"
lay in the river where we passed by the
remains of the steam-boat Putnam, sunk there. We met the
beautiful large steam-boat Caledonia, which, coming from
Louisville, went down the river in a most imposing style. The
mouth of
the Arkansas is distant five hundred and ninety and a half
miles from New Orleans, and there are still five hundred and
fifty-nine and a half miles remaining to St. Louis, so that
the distance from New Orleans to St. Louis amounts to eleven
hundred and fifty-eight miles.
On the 1st of April, the shores on both sides, as well as
most of the islands, continued still as low and woody as those
we had noticed during the preceding days. The ugly long moss,
however ceased to deform the trees. Upon the right shore, was
situated a little new settlement, Helena, which, from the
appearance of its buildings, must be in a tolerably thriving
condition. Towards evening, we stopped to wood on the right
bank, at a small settlement, called Big Prairie. It was an
open place, surrounded by forests, in which stood some very
handsome live-oaks. As it became dark, we saw in the woods a
great number of fire flies, swarming about, which for a moment
led us to think that there was a smithy, or a high furnace in
the forest, out of which the sparks were flying. The
navigation during the night was very dangerous on account of
the number of snags: we received some powerful blows, and a
branch, to which we approached too near in the dark, forced
its way into one of the cabins, and made a considerable
breach. Luckily no one at the time was sleeping there.
Upon the following day we still contemplated no object but
low and inundated shores. The human dwellings, the most
miserable that could be conceived, were placed along in a
scattered manner. As we took in wood towards evening, we were
obliged to fasten to the wood-pile, as the whole plantation
was under water. The lights on the left shore, which may rise
about forty feet, are called the Chickesa Bluffs, of which
there are reckoned four in a stretch of about sixty miles.
Before we reached the fourth Chickesa Bluff, we passed a
large island, called President's Island. The river changes its
course almost every year, and constantly washes the sand-banks
away, while it makes others, so that the chart of the stream
made a few years back, is not to be depended upon as a guide.
The passage in which we sailed along, was at times rather
narrow on account of the island, when the river was at least
an English mile broad. Upon the fourth Chickesa Bluff stood
the quondam Fort Pickering, consisting of a stockade, as were
the forts, as they were called in the Creek nation. The two
block houses of this fort are still visible, of which a
plantation house has been made. A short mile above the fort,
stands a group of rather miserable houses: it is the town of
Memphis. It is seven hundred and sixty-three miles from New
Orleans, and three hundred and eighty-seven from St. Louis.
Above this town of great name, the Wolf river discharges itself
into tne Mississippi. The state of Mississippi has its boundary
here, and the state of Tennessee commences. It is reported,
that
Miss Wright,
of whom notice has been taken before, has
settled herself near Memphis, bought several negroes,
and located a plantation. During her travels in the northern
states, she expressed so great a disgust towards slavery,
that she could not be persuaded to cross the Potomac, to go
into Virginia. And now, she has even purchased negroes!
It is said, however, that she has acted thus from a
philanthropical designs, to follow a proposed plan of
setting the negroes free, and giving them their liberty by
degrees. I have already given my sentiments at Boston,
concerning Miss Wright. All that I have since heard respecting
her, confirms the unfavourable judgment which I then
communicated. A respectable person, who had become
acquainted with her in Philadelphia, said, that she
stretched herself on a sofa, spoke little, and gave herself
little or no trouble about any one, now and then breaking
out in detached sentences, such as this, for example;
I believe that bears are of more value than men. At
Memphis, she will, I have no doubt, enjoy many
opportunities of confirming herself in practical
experience of the truth of this maxim. In the evening,
we were amused again with the great numbers of fire
flies, which filled the woods.
Notes
- Mr.
Edward Livingston. Because the Louisiana Purchase took
place before the enactment of the Napoleonic Code, the
territory did not originally follow the code when it went
into effect in 1804. However, Edward
Livingston led a commission in the 1820s which devised
penal and civil codes for the young state based on the
Napoleonic Code. The "Livingston Code" was written in both
French and English. The state never adopted the penal code,
but it did adopt the civil code in 1825.
- Delasalle.
René-Robert
Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle. French explorer who
claimed the Mississippi Valley for France in 1682.
-
Fort Bowyer. An earthen and stockade fort built in
1813 on Mobile Point, Alabama. Fort
Bowyer was attacked twice by the British during the
War of 1812.
-
Major Lawrence. William Lawrence was in command of Fort
Bowyer during the War of 1812.
- Major
Nichols. Sir
Edward Nicolls, KCB (1779 — 1865), originally from
Ireland, served as an officer of the Royal Marines and rose
to the level of general.
- Corvette
Hermes. A corvette
is a small, lightly armed warship.
-
A more extensive fortress. The new fort is a masonry
star fort named Fort
Morgan.
-
Rue de Remparts. Rampart St.
-
Mr. Johnson. Henry
Johnson was the fifth governor of Louisiana (after the
Americans took over) 1824–1828.
- Domino.
A half mask worn over the eyes with a masquerade costume.
- Pharo.
Pharo or faro
was a popular card game.
- Beau
monde. Fashionable society. Literally, fine
world.
- Regulus.
Regulus:
A Tragedy by William Havard in 1744.
-
Merely tolerable. This is the same corps which the
Philadelphians extol so highly, that one might almost
suppose them equal to the artists of the Theatre
Français, if, unfortunately, one visit to the
theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!] — Trans.
-
The bankruptcy. The Panic of
1825 was still affecting the world economy.
- Insurrection
of the negroes. The 1811
German Coast Uprising was the largest slave revolt in
United States history.
- The
barbarity and indifference. Among the slave traders, a
Hollander from Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his
name was Jacobs. He had the most vulgar and sinister
countenance imaginable, was constantly drunk, and treated
the wretched negroes in the most brutal manner; he was,
however, severely beaten by these miserable beings, driven
to despair. — Author
The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at these horrible
consequenes of slavery, is such as every man, not hardened
by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; those to
whom they are daily presented regard them with calm
indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their
continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known,
as it should be, that the slave trade is carried on,
almost as vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of
almost every nation; not in the least excepting Americans.
The slave vessels sail principally from Havanna and St.
Thomas, and land their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico,
and elsewhere, whither purchasers and agents resort, when
such an arrival occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes,
arrived in Puerto Rico in February last, and two brigs were
daily expected. It is said in the West Indies, that all
ships of war, of powers owning West India Colonies, connive
at the trade, which is fully supported by facts; as French,
Danish, and English cruisers were in the vicinity, when the
above mentioned cargoes arrived, The idea of cruising off
the coast or Africa, to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by
the slave dealers, with one of whom the writer of this note
conversed. If the American, or any other government really
wished to put an end to this trade, it could be very
effectually accomplished, by sending small armed vessels to
intercept the slave traders near their places of landing
cargoes, which are not very numerous. It is also said,
in the West Indies that the Havanna traders still contrive
to introduce Africans into the southern part of the United
States; of the truth or falsehood of this, we know nothing.
The slave vessels are generally Baltimore clipper brigs, and
shooners, completely armed and very fast sailers. Two of
them sailed ou this execrable trade in February last, from a
port visited by the writer. — Trans.
- Quadroon
ball. The
Quadroon Balls were attended by upper-class white men
and mixed-race women. The relationship formed was monogamous
(at least on the woman's part) and was called plaçage.
- Bredouillè.
Empty-handed.
-
General Garrigues de Flaugeac. Joseph
Paul Antoine Garrigues de Flaugeac was born in France.
He served under Napoleon, made his way to Louisiana via a
shipwreck, and settled in Opelousas. He served as an officer
at the Battle of New Orleans, using his brass canon against
the British with deadly accuracy.
-
Colonel Wool. John
Ellis Wool was the inspector general of the United
States army.
-
Major Twiggs. David
Emanuel Twiggs was an officer in the United States
Army and later in the Confederate Army.
- Colonel
Croghan. Colonel
Croghah
was one of the most distinguished officers of the American
army. In the last war, he defended a miserable stockade,
(Fort Stephenson) on Lake Eric, against a force eight times
greater than his own, which had artillery, and drove it
back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of New
Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered
again into the army, and held the post of second
Inspector-General.
- Prison.
Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the Calaboose,
(from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted dungeon,) and
a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the efficiency of
the police of which can never be enough admired.] — Trans.
- Without
a pass. I have already made some remarks with regard
to the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person
wishes here to have a house-negro, male or female,
chastised, they are sent with a note, in which the number of
lashes which the bearer is to receive are specified, with a
quarter of a dollar; he or she a lodged in the slave prison.
Here the slave receives the punishment, and a certificate,
which he must carry to his master. The maximum of lashes is
thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. The species of
punishment is specified us in Charleston, or “aux quatre
piquets” [“to four stakes”]. In this last case, the
poor wretch is pressed out flat on his face upon the earth,
and his hands and feet bound to four posts. In this posture
he receives his flogging. This frightful method of
chastisement, is principally in use on the plantations; and
cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. Whoever wishes
to punish a house servant severely, either hires or sells
him to work on the plantations.
-
The old Spanish government house. The
Cabildo which currently houses the Louisiana State
Museum.
-
“Ultima ratio regum.” “The last argument of
kings.” These canons dated back to Louis XIV, who had
this
motto placed on them.
-
“Liberté, egalité.” "Liberty,
equality, fraternity" was the motto of the French Revolution
that deposed the king.
- Formality.
If it be known that a stranger, who has pretensions to mix
with good society, frequents such balls as these, he may
rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.
-
Slaves thus obtained. A plain, unvarnished history of
the internal slave trade carried on in this country,
would shock and disgust the reader to a degree that would
almost render him ashamed to acknowledge himself a member of
the same community. In unmanly and degrading barbarity,
wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to every human
emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association with
whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form.
One of these internal slave traders has built, in a
neighbouring city, a range of private prisons,
fronting the main road to Washington, in which he collects
his cattle previous to sending off a caravan to the
south. The voice of lamentation is seldom stilled within
these accursed walls. — Trans.
-
Mr. Robinson. Thomas
Bolling Robertson (1779-1828) was the third
governor of the state of Louisiana, serving 1820-1824.
-
Mr. Dubourg. Louis
William Valentine Dubourg was the bishop of Louisiana
and Florida. He was residing at the Ursuline Convent at this
time.
-
Shrove Tuesday. Mardi Gras.
-
Parterre. The part of the main floor of a theater that lies under the balcony section.
-
Lashes upon her. This Frenchman, a merchant's clerk from Montpelier,
was not stisfied with this: he went to the police, lodged a complaint
against the girl, had her arrested by two constables, and whipped
again by them in his presence. I regret that I did not take a not
of this miscreant's name, in order that I might give his disgraceful
conduct its merited publicity.
-
Donaldsonville.
Our author has somehow been confused in his diary here: the mouth of
La Fourche is generally called seventy-five miles above New Orleans,
Stoddart makes it eighty-one. At any rate it is about half way between
Bayou Sara or Point Coupee and the city of New Orleans; and of course the
Duke must have passed Donaldsonville, which is at the junction of La
Fourche with the Mississippi, in the morning of the day he passed
Baton Rouge. — Trans.
-
"Snags."
In these rivers there is a difference understood between
the two kinds of trunks of trees which lie in the stream, and
are dangerous to vessels, i. e. snags and sawyers. The first,
of which I have spoken already in the Alabama river, are fast
at one end in the bottom, and stand up like piles; the others
are not fastened, by being moved by the current the upper end
of the tree takes a sawing motion, from whence its appellation
is derived.
-
Miss Wright.
Frances "Fanny"
Wright (1795-1852) immigrated to the United
States from Scotland. She was an
author and reformer who established a community where slaves
could gradually buy their freedom called the
Nashoba Commune near Memphis, Tennessee.
See the discussion of her in Fanny Trollope's Domestic Manners
of the Americans
Source
Bernhard, Duke of
Saxe-Weimar Eisenach. Travels through North America During
the Years 1825 and 1826. Vols. 1 & 2. Philadelphia: Carey,
Lea, & Carey, 1828. Google Books. Web. 7 January 2013. <http://books.
google. com/ books/ about/ Travels_ Through_ North_ America_
During_ the.html?id= hPrDJHg5z3wC>.
Anthology
of Louisiana Literature