frequent rests were necessary & in about an hour J" 1804 and a half we ascended above the rapid which 1 December was only about 150 yards in length; a small island here divided the river into two channels, we took the shortest tho' the most rapid, because it was most favorable for the use of the rope: The french hunters have denominated this place 'La Cascade' on account of the rapidity & great fall of the water within so small a space: below the Cascade, we had rocky hills on both sides, the quality very hard freestone, but that found in the bed of the river which was rolled down by the floods from the upper countries, was very frequently of the hardest flint, sometimes resembling the Turkey stone. Being embarrassed upon the rapids we could not land to observe at noon. We were obliged to use the rope a second time to ascend a very impetuous rapid, altho' much inferior to that of the morning: at 1* 45' p.m. passed a creek on the right called 'fourche au Tigre' (Tiger creek) 4 computed leagues from the Chutes; it would seem that the Early Hunters have calculated their leagues by the time required to ascend the stream, & not by distance, as it appears from our calculation, that the distances passed over are frequently not above half those by computation: we now carry the rocky hills with us very often on both sides; rich bottoms nevertheless are not infrequent, & the upland is sometimes of moderate eleva
1804 1 tion & tollerably level: we are informed that up December] fourche au Tigre, & other Creeks there are many extensive tracts of rich level land. The stones and rocks we now meet with are chiefly penetrated along their fissures by sparry and chrystaline matter. Last night a band of Wolves howled in our neighbourhood a great part of the night. Turkeys become now much more abundant & less difficult of approach than below, our hunters generally kill some every day. The opposition on the river was to day so great, that we made only 3 miles 1 28 perches, altho' by the old computation our days voyage was little short of 3 leagues. Therm! at 8* p.m. 38? Extremes 2 3 "—56?
Thursday 6'.h Thermr in air 450 in river water 480—cloudy —light wind at S.W. river fallen 2 inches. We were encamped last night upon excellent land, tollerably level, and of a good dark brown or blackish soil at the surface, about 12 inches deep, lying upon a yellowish loam; the growth of timber is large and handsome, chiefly a forest of Oak with an admixture of ash, hickory, elm &c, a field of corn has been formerly cultivated here by one of the hunters during the summer recess from hunting. This morning the Weather being cloudy we apprehended rain, but hoped to reach the ' fourche of Calfat' (Caulker's creek) the point which is to terminate our navigation,
& & encamp before bad weather; we according- [1804 ly proceeded on without material interruption [December until the hour of breakfast, carrying with us high hills on the left and good level lands on the right, subject perhaps to be inundated: at 9h a.m. arrived at the foot of a very long precipitous rapid, it seemed to be divided into four steps, one of which was at least 15 inches perpendicular exclusive of the inclined plane above and below, the whole could not be less than 5^ feet perpendicular from the beginning to the end, which was about 400 yards, altho' the swift water continued half a mile: the rope was carried along the bank as usual, and many stops were made upon the rocks before coming to the great fall; at last the barge entered between two high rocks, the men exerted themselves vigorously both on shore and aboard; the barge appeared to be ascending an inclined plane of 12 or 15 degrees; great exertions were necessary, she however passed without touching any other obstacle but the impetuous torrent and in a few seconds was drawn into moderate water to the infinite joy of the whole party; upon another part of the rapid higher up, we got upon a rock, which seemed to serve as a pivot, upon which the boat turned as a Center; after reiterated exertions, we could neither advance nor retreat, we therefore unloaded about one quarter of the cargo which enabled her to pass
1804 | up without difficulty: we immediately re-loaded December] having spent three hours in getting over this rapid, and proceeded a quarter of a mile farther to Ellis' Camp a little below the 'fourche au Calfat' (Caulker's creek): Here terminates our voyage upon the river upwards, for the present. Our pilot considers this the most convenient landing, from whence to transport by land our necessary baggage to the hot-springs, the distance being about three leagues. There is a creek about 2 leagues higher up, called 'bayou des sources chaudes' (hot-spring Creek) upon the banks of which the hot springs are situated, about 2 leagues only from its mouth, but the road is very hilly and therefore less eligible than the path from this camp or landing, which is almost a level road. Upon ascending the hill to encamp we found the land extremely level and very good, with some plants in flower & a great many evergreen vines; the forest is chiefly oak with an admixture of other timber as before mentioned: soon after we arrived it began to rain, we were however tented before it commenced. Therm! at 8h p.m. 56? Extremes 54067? Our short voyage this day was only 2 miles 32 perches.
Friday 7? Therm! before sun-rise 38? in river water 47? Cloudy — Wind N.W. river risen 4 inches. In the morning Doctor Hunter with the Pilot &c
went went to view a salt-lick about a mile to the f 1804 West of our camp but found no salt water; the [December clay was extremely stiff and difficult to dig: after breakfast dispatched the Pilot with the greatest part of our people with their own baggage & some provisions to encamp at the hotsprings, hoping to find Cabins there sufficient to hut our party with orders to return early next morning so as to take out a load of more baggage and instruments. Took the sun's meridian altitude; Latitude deduced 340 27' 31.5 — Therm! at 3^ p.m. 50° — the weather cleared up about 9h p.m. and became very serene and cool with wind at N.W. some venison and turkey were procured by the hunters: altho' we have frequently seen the tracks and other marks of buffalo, we are hitherto disappointed in killing any of them.
Therm! in air 10? in river water 430 — very Saturday 8'± serene—light wind at N.W. river risen 4 inches. We found the weather this morning extremely cold, the therm' having fallen lower, than we expected in this latitude, particularly at the present early period of the winter season; it is perhaps to be ascribed to the elevation of the country and neighbourhood of mountains: as we have no barometer with us to indicate the pressure of the atmosphere, we shall when we get to the hot springs, ascertain the degree of
the
1804 1 the thermometer at which water boils, from December] whjch scientific men may draw their own conclusions respecting the elevation of the land.
At 10^ a.m. our people returned from the hot-springs, each giving his own account of the wonderful things he had seen: they were unable to keep the finger a moment in the Water as it issued from the rock, they drank of it after cooling a little and found it very agreeable; some of them thinking that it tasted like Spice-wood tea. The people after refreshment were dispatched with another load of necessary baggageTook the Sun's meridian altitude again to day
& found the latitude to be 340 27' 27" being 4" less than yesterday; should no more observations for the Latitude be made here, we may consider it as fixed at 340 27' 29". The Therm! at 31? p.m. 47? We may prepare for another cold night: a flock of swans passed us to day: we have had an abundance of venison & turkey since we landed here, sufficient to supply the whole party with fresh provisions. The bank or hill upon which we are encamped is at least 50 feet perpendicular above the present level of the river, and therefore I presume 30 feet clear of inundation. Some hills of considerable height are in view, clothed with pine trees, but the lands around us extending far beyond our view, lie very handsomely for cultivation; the superstratum stratum is of blackish brown color from 8 to 12 J1804 inches deep, lying upon a yellowish basis, the 1 December whole intermixed more or less with stone & gravel & fragments of blue schistus, which is frequently found so far decomposed as to have a strong aluminous taste. The therm! at 8h p.m. 260; very serene and calm, the stars shone with uncommon lustre: in an hour more the face of the heavens was changed, a general cloud produced an intense darkness; the therm! rose to 3 6? and we expected snow or rain; after midnight notwithstanding, the clouds were dissipated, the face of heaven recovered its brightness & the Stars shone with undiminished splendor. Extremes of the therm! \o°—^j°.
Therm! in air 19? in river water 41? very Sunday y> serene — Wind moderate at N.W. river risen 2 inches. The people returned from the springs between gh & 1oh a.m. and after some time given for repose and refreshment, the party set out again with such baggage as was immediately wanted, and Doctor Hunter and myself accompanied them; the people complained of the length of the road and weight of the loads, we therefore diminished the latter; The Sergeant and one private remained in care of the Barge and her stores. We left the river camp about noon and with many delays and haults for resting we arrived at the hot springs at 4^ h p.m.—
the
1804 1 the distance is computed to be 9 miles, which December/ we sjiall verify by actual measurement, probably on our return : the first six miles were in a general westerly direction with many sinuosities and the last three northerly, which courses were necessary to avoid crossing some very steep hills. We found on the way three principal salt-licks & some inferior, which are all frequented by buffalo, deer &c the soil around consisted of a white tenacious clay, probably fit for Potter's ware; hence the name' Glaise' which the french hunters have bestowed upon most of the licks which are frequented by the beasts of the forest, altho' salt is not always to be found in such places so as to merit attention: we saw on the way recent tracts of the Buffalo and several Deer skipped along before us; we did not follow the game, being desireous of arriving at our destination before evening. The people were much fatigued with this days labor, altho' the road is by no means bad or hilly, but there is no doubt that a heavy load constantly bearing a man down must be very fatiguing upon the best of roads: the time and difficulties of moving our small baggage and provisions, altho' nothing but what is essentially necessary, to so small a distance, naturally sugests the inconveniencies which must arise in transporting over unknown mountains between the sources of the red and Arcansa rivers, baggage & provisions indispensibly necessary, cessary, with tools and implements for the con- ("1804 struction of a boat or boats to descend the 2d lDecei river. Soldiers accustomed to carry moderate loads only, would find it intollerable to transport burthens which would be thought light by a Canadian or other woodsman enured to such hardships: a little calculation will shew what ideas we ought to form upon this subject. The provisions, instruments, arms & other baggage which may be deemed indispensible for 15 persons engaged on such an expedition, i. e. what must be transported from the head of one river to the commencement of navigation on the other, are certainly not over-rated at 3000 lib; of the whole party 10 carriers are the highest number we can calculate upon, some being necessary to guard the two camps while the scientific persons unattended would explore the environs: those 1 o carriers from what we have seen could not be expected to carry for a number of days successively more than 50 pounds each (several of our people were incapable of doing so much) and ten miles to go loaded & return empty day after day even on a tollerably level road, is perhaps beyond what we can flatter ourselves with accomplishing; thus it would require at least six days to transport the baggage 10 miles, and the seventh would be demanded as a day of repose: now if the heads of navigation should be only 50 miles apart, & the passage not
1804 1 rugged or mountainous, it would require at the December] leagt ^ days to pass along the unknown region;
and if allowance be made for such difficulties as ought to be expected including bad weather, we shall perhaps still flatter ourselves, if we expect to complete this portage in 50 days: on due consideration therefore it may be more advantageous (if the expedition is to be carried on by soldiers who cannot travel without their rations, tents, baggage & above all their execrable whisky) to explore one river only at a time. When arrived at the head of Navigation which will constitute a kind of head quarters and point of departure, the scientific men with a sufficient party may make with tollerable convenience excursions of 30, 40 or 50 miles in all directions, prolonging the time according to the fortune of procuring game, which will enable the party to reserve the provisions taken from Camp for their return: an advantage resulting from this plan would be the facility of transporting specimens of natural history meriting attention; it is evident that this benefit must, upon the other plan, be nearly given up excepting on the descent of the second river. I am not ignorant that the plan originally proposed may be carried into effect, but this must be done by persons chosen for the object, in order that it may be done with economy & in a reasonable time: Two young men of science of robust constitutions attended by four Canadian
or or other woodsmen inured to fatigue and who [1804 can depend altogether on their guns for subsist- lDece ence may accomplish this object; they will be able to transport at once, their blankets, their arms and amunition, a little parched meal, very light instruments, such as a 3 inch sextant which may be graduated to 20" of a degree, a pocket case with a few re-agents for mineralogical assays, and 3 or 4 days provisions in case of disappointment in finding game; (spirituous liquors must be out of the question :) Such a party, each carrying a light ax for the purpose of building Canoes &c may accomplish the object proposed, upon supposition that no hostility is to be apprehended from the natives.
From the river camp for about two miles, the lands are level and of second rate quality, the timber chiefly oak intermixed with others common to the climate and a few scattering pine-trees; further on, the lands on either hand arose into gently swelling hills, clothed chiefly with handsome pine-woods: the road passed along a valley frequently wet, by numerous rills and springs of excellent water which broke from the foot of the hills: as we approached the hotsprings the hills became more elevated and of steep ascent & generally rocky; those hills are here dignified by the name of mountains, altho' none of those yet in view exceed 4 or 500 feet; it is said that mountains of more than five times
the
1804 1 the elevation of these hills are to be seen in the December J North-west towards the sources of the Washita river; one of those has been called the glass, Chrystal or Shining mountain, on its surface is to be found vast numbers of large hexagonal prisms of very transparent colorless chrystal, generally surmounted by pyramids at one end, rarely at both; they do not produce a double refraction: many searches have been made over those mountains for the precious mettals, but hitherto without success, so far as I can learn.
We found at the Hot-springs an Open LogCabin and a few huts of split boards, all calculated for summer encampment, & which have been erected by persons resorting to the Springs for the recovery of their health; we shall endeavour to render our temporary lodging comfortable for the people and ourselves during the short time we expect to stay here: we are a little discouraged by the dilatory ways of the Soldiers; it is evident that to promote the advancement of an object similar to ours, they ought to be commanded by a commissioned officer, whose manners and disposition would render him an agreeable companion to his fellow laborers: it cannot be said that the Soldiers are disobedient, on the contrary they are to me uniformly respectful, but it sometimes appears that a spur is wanting, & there is no person here who treats them otherwise than with civility;
there there is also some appearance of design to pro- J1804 long their return to new-orleans, the present \December service being much more agreeable to them than the duty of a garrison under the eye of their officer.
On our arrival we immediately tasted of the hot-spring water, that is, after a few minutes cooling, for it was impossible to approach it with the lips when first taken up, without scalding: having arrived here without prejudice for or against the springs I did not discover any other taste except that of very good water rendered hot by culinary fire; some of our people pretended to have discovered cathartic properties, which must be feeble, as I have been unable to detect the existence of such a quality in the waters. Therm!at 8h p.m. 280 Extremes 1o°-42?
Therm! 260—very serene. Wind moderate at Monday 1o'.h N.W. — We spent a cold night in our new lodgings, not being able to keep up a large fire in the Cabin, which is only 12 feet square without a chimney. From the complaints of great fatigue by the people, we found it necessary to allow some repose, and ordered the people to go into the river camp, there to remain during the night and return the day following with more of our baggage, directing the loads to be made still lighter: the day proved serene and fine, but as we had been obliged to leave our instruments
1804 1 struments yesterday at the river-camp, no astroDecember J nomjcal observations could be made this day.
We visited all the hot springs; they issue from the sides and foot of a hill placed on the east side of the narrow valley where we are hutted, one small spring only rises out of the face of the west bank of the creek; from the quantity of calcareous matter deposited by it it does not appear to be of long standing; a natural conduit probably passes under the bed of the creek to supply it. There are four principal springs arising immediately on the east bank of the Creek, one of which may rather be said to spring out of the gravel bed of run; a fifth smaller one is that just mentioned rising on the west side of the creek; a sixth of the same magnitude is the highest or most northerly one rising near the bank of the Creek; those are all the sources which merit the name of springs near to our huts; but there is a considerable one some distance below, & all along the creek at intervals the water oozes out or drips from under the bank into the creek, which during the present cool season is very evident from the condensed vapor which floats along the margin of the Creek, where those drippings are visible & even where none is to be seen; a statement will hereafter be given of the temperatures of the respective springs with the quantity of water delivered and references to their respective positions;
from from some slight trials, it appears that the high- [1804 est temperature is about 1480 to 150? of Farhe- [December neit's thermometer.
In the afternoon we ascended the hill of the hot springs, it is of a conical form terminating at top with a few loose fragments of rocks covering a flat space of twenty five feet diameter: altho' we have said the hill is conical, yet it is not entirely insulated, for it is connected by a very narrow ridge with the neighbouring hills.
The primitive rock of this hill above the base is chiefly Silicious, some part of it being of the hardest flint, others of the nature of freestone extremely compact & solid, and of a great variety of colors; the base of the hill, & indeed for a considerable extent, is composed of blackish blue schistus, which divides into perpendicular lamina? like blue slate; The water of the hot springs is therfore delivered from the siliceous rock, but this is generally invisible at the surface, being encrusted by or rather buried in the mass of calcareous matter, perpetually precipitated from the water; iron in small proportion was also deposited in form of a red calx, the colour of which was frequently distinguishable in the lime.
Under the hotest water we observed a lively green appearance, which at first induced us to suppose that copper might be present, but on closer inspection, we found it to be a soft tender
matter,
1804 1 matter, perhaps a feculum deposited by the water;
December J -lt mav pOSSibly be of the same nature with the green matter found in conduits or even in well buckets under pure water at common temperature, respecting which a dispute arose (I think) between Doctor Priestly and other Philosophers, whether this green mater is a perfect vegetable or only a feculum; the question is perhaps now decided (if we suppose the green matter of the hot springs to be of the same kind) for by reasoning from analogy, no vegetable can be supposed to exist in the temperature of 150°; but we must beware of presuming to set bounds to the powers of Nature: we shall hereafter examine this matter with due attention; we shall only now observe, that this substance seems to be deposited by successive thin lamina?.
As we advanced up the calcareous region of the hill, we discovered several patches of rich black earth, which appears to be formed by the decomposition of the calcareous matter: in other situations appeared an incrustation of limestone, i. e. the superficial earth was penetrated, indurated and encrusted by lime with fine lamina? or minute fragments of iron ore: we entertained no doubt that the water of the hot springs had here issued formerly from the hill and run over the surface, and that the entire mass of the calcareous rock to the height of one hundred feet perpendicular has been created by the incessant
depositions