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Anthology of Louisiana Literature

Célestine Eustis and James Herndon.
Cooking in Old Créole Days:
La Cuisine Créole à l’Usage des Petits Ménages
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DEDICACE

Si ce petit ouvrage peut être utile è mes chers neveux et chères nièces, j’aurais la satisfaction de savoir que mon temps n’a pas été perdu, en réclamant toute l’indulgence du public pour avoir abusé de sa patience.

CONTENTS
COOKING IN OLD CRÉOLE DAYS

  1. Art and Science of Salad Making, 86
  2. Asparagus in the Oven, 61
  3. Asparagus Soup, 62
  4. A Todd Ham, 33
  5. Aunt Anne’s Corn-Bread, without powder, 68
  6. Aunt Anne’s delicious Corn-Bread, 68
  7. Aunt Anne’s Hoecake, 69
  8. Baltimore style of making Terrapin Stew without Terrapin, 38
  9. Barley Soup with Celery, 18
  10. Beef Tea, 25
  11. Biscuits made over night, 67
  12. Black Bean Soup, 22
  13. Blanquette of Veal, 49
  14. Bonne Femme Soup, 20
  15. Bouillon & la James Madison, 16
  16. Bread, 95
  17. Brisket of Beef, 32
  18. Buckner Punch, 100
  19. Cafe Parfait, 101
  20. Calf’s Head Soup, 22
  21. Calf’s Liver a la Celeste Smith, 50
  22. Candied Orange, 77
  23. Canvasback Duck, 44
  24. Caramel Pudding, 74
  25. Carrots, 59
  26. Chicken Broth, 25
  27. Chicken Casserole, 44
  28. Chicken Croquettes, 46
  29. Chicken Panade, 25
  30. Chicken Pie, 46
  31. Chinese Rice, 27
  32. Chocolate Icing, 85
  33. Chowder for eight Persons, 24
  34. Claret Punch, 100
  35. Codfish & la l’Espagnole, 40
  36. Codfish Balls, 39
  37. Codfish Cakes, 39
  38. Cold Tea, 64
  39. Common Cake, 82
  40. Corn Bread, 70
  41. Corn Cake, 70
  42. Corn Meal Bread, 71
  43. Corn Oysters, 63
  44. Corn Pone, 70
  45. Corn Pudding, 76
  46. Couche Couche, 71
  47. Courtbouillon of Fish, 41
  48. Crab Gumbo, 15
  49. Crawfish Bisque, 16
  50. Cream a la Celestine, 72
  51. Creme d’Orge, 13
  52. Cucumber Catsup, 52
  53. Custard Bread, 77
  54. Daube Glacee, 30
  55. Delicate Cake, 82
  56. Delicious Breakfast Dish, 27
  57. Delicious Fish Balls, 39
  58. Delicious Stew, 34
  59. Devilled Crabs, 40
  60. Devilled Crabs — New Orleans Style, 41
  61. Drop Puffs, 80
  62. Dutch Sauce, 49
  63. “Edge Hill” Cooked Apples, 74
  64. “Eggnogg,” 100
  65. Egg Plant, 58
  66. Eggs a la Morelle, 63
  67. Eggs a la Morelle, 67
  68. Eggs, Portuguese style, 63
  69. Filet Marine, 32
  70. Flat Cookies, 83
  71. Floating Island, 73
  72. Foods that Steal Flavors, 96
  73. For Broiling Chicken, 45
  74. Fried Carrots, 58
  75. Fruit in Its Own Juice, 78
  76. Gingerbread, 79
  77. Gingerbread, 83
  78. Ginger Cake, 80
  79. Globe Artichokes, 58
  80. Gofio, 96
  81. Graham Wheatlets, 71
  82. Gumbo Filê, 13
  83. Gumbo Filê, 95
  84. Ham fried with Sugar,33
  85. Hard Custard, 73
  86. Herb Gumbo, 15
  87. Hints for Housekeepers, 93
  88. Hominy Bread and Waffles, 69
  89. Hopping John, 27
  90. Hopping John, 29
  91. How to cook Mushrooms in a Chafing Dish half an hour before serving, 62
  92. How to destroy Flies, 96
  93. How to make a Caramel, 77
  94. How to make a good Soup with what remains from Breakfast, 99
  95. How to make Drip Coffee, 64
  96. How to make Tea, 64
  97. How to roast Ducks, 44
  98. How to serve Chicken, 45
  99. Indian Sponge Cake, 83
  100. Jerusalem Artichokes, 58
  101. Jerusalem Artichokes, 64
  102. Jambalaya, 28
  103. Jambalaya a la Creole, 26
  104. Jambalaya (A Spanish Creole dish), 27
  105. Kidney Stew, 34
  106. Leg of Mutton, 33
  107. Leonie Penin’s Dry Cake, 82
  108. Leonie’s Cake, 83
  109. Loaf Bread, 67
  110. Loaf of Gingerbread, 79
  111. Lobster Sauce, 50
  112. Lucchetti, Fried, 60
  113. Macaroni Pie, 63
  114. Manchester Ice-Cream, 73
  115. Meringue Pudding, 75
  116. Mince-Meat, 77
  117. Molasses Cake, 84
  118. Molasses Gingerbread, 79
  119. “Monica’s” way to cook Fish, 42
  120. Monkey Pudding, 75
  121. Mrs. Kelly’s delicious Mutton Stew, 34
  122. Muffins, 66
  123. New England Chowder, 22
  124. New Orleans Oyster Soup, 21
  125. New Orleans Veal Balls, 51
  126. New Orleans Veal with Oysters, 48
  127. New Orleans way to cook Snipe, 46
  128. Nice cold Dish for Lunch, to be eaten with Salad, 36
  129. Okra Gumbo, 14
  130. Okra Hibiscus, 95
  131. Okra Soup, 18
  132. Oyster and Peanut Soup, 21
  133. Oyster Soup, 21
  134. Pancakes, 72
  135. Partridge à la “Uncle John,” 42
  136. Pickle Peaches
  137. Plain Boiled Rice, 26
  138. Plain Rice Pudding, 76
  139. Plum Pudding, 74
  140. Pop-Overs, 70
  141. Porcupine Pudding, 75
  142. Potato Balls, 42
  143. Pot au Feu, 17
  144. Potomac Herrings with Roe, 40
  145. Potted Veal, 37
  146. Praline Cocoanut, 78
  147. Praline Pecans, 78
  148. Punch, 78
  149. Raw Beef Soup, 25
  150. Riz à la Valencienne, 28
  151. Roast Beef, 31
  152. Rolls, 66
  153. Sally Lunn, 69
  154. Sally Lunn, 70
  155. Sauce, à la Newburg, for Lobster, 41
  156. Sauce Béarnaise, 49
  157. Sauce Bordelaise, 50
  158. Sauce for Wild Duck, 50
  159. Sauce for Veal Balls, 51
  160. Simple, clear Tomato Soup, 19
  161. Small Sponge Cake, 83
  162. Soda Biscuits, 66
  163. Soft Custard, 73
  164. Sorrel Soup, 18
  165. Soufflé Biscuits, 68
  166. Soup without Meat, 20
  167. Southern Tomato Soup, 19
  168. Spiced Beef, 51
  169. Spinach, 60
  170. Squash, 59
  171. Stewed Tongue for Lunch, 52
  172. Strawberry Shortcake, 80
  173. String Beans, 60
  174. Stuffing for Fowls, 43
  175. Stuffings for Turkeys and Ducks, 42
  176. Swedish Cream, 74
  177. Sweet Potato Buns, 71
  178. Sweet Potatoes, 52
  179. Sweet Potatoes, 53
  180. Sweet Potato Pudding, 53
  181. Sweet Wafers, 84
  182. Terrapin, 37
  183. Terrapin Soup, 37
  184. The way to tell good Mushrooms from poisonous ones, 62
  185. Thick Water Biscuits, 68
  186. Thin Water Biscuits, 67
  187. To boil a Westphalia Ham, 33
  188. To broil a Steak, 32
  189. To cook and serve Tomatoes, 53
  190. Tomato Curry, 36
  191. Tomatoes, 57
  192. Tomato Soup, 19
  193. To stew Lamb and Peas, 34
  194. Turkey Stuffing, 43
  195. Veal Croquettes, 36
  196. Veal Terrapin, 38
  197. Waffles, 66
  198. Yorkshire Pudding, 31
  199. Un Piti Dine Creole Aux Delegues De New Orleans Press Clob, 102
  200. A Small Creole Dinner To The Delegates Of The New Orleans Press Club, 104

LA CUISINE CRÉOLE

  1. A l’Usage des Petits Ménages, 101
  2. Bananes, 122
  3. Bécassines de la Nouvelle Orléans, 116
  4. Blanquette de Veau, 115
  5. Brandade de Morue, 117
  6. Calas, 124
  7. Cervelles de Mouton Pandées, 122
  8. Cervelles de Veau ou Mouton au Beurre Noir, 116
  9. Cornbread, 124
  10. Cotes de Homard, 117
  11. Crabes Farcis, 117
  12. Crème à la Glace à la Célestine, 127
  13. Daube de Gazway, 112
  14. Daube Glacée à la Créole de Madame Rouzan, née Olivier, 110
  15. Daube Glacée de Madame Eustis, Mère, 113
  16. Farce pour Pâtés ou pour des Dindes ou pour des Volailles, 115
  17. Flan aux Cerises, 127
  18. Foie de Veau à la Céleste, 114
  19. Fromage à la Crème, 126
  20. Gateau de Mousseline, 127
  21. Gateau Praline ou Ile Flottante, 128
  22. Gateau Sec de Léonie Penin, 125
  23. Gumbo de Crabes, 108
  24. Gumbo Févis, 107
  25. Gumbo Filet, 107
  26. Gumbo Zherbes, 108
  27. Gratin aux Pommes de Terre, 121
  28. Grillades de Veau, de Ma-dame Josephine Micaud, 114
  29. Haricots Verts, 120
  30. Haricots Verts, Maltre d’Hôtel, 120
  31. Jambalaya, 110
  32. La Saccamité, 110
  33. Maryland Biscuits, 125
  34. Muffins, 124
  35. Oseille, 121
  36. Pain Blanc, 124
  37. Pain Noir, 125
  38. Patates Douces au Four, 120
  39. Perdrix aux Choux, 115
  40. Petit Avis aux Ménagères, 128
  41. Pommes Cuites à la Thomas Jefferson, 127
  42. Pommes de Terre Soufflées, 121
  43. Potage Marinière, 109
  44. Pour Fond de Cuisine, 118
  45. Pour Faire du Bon Café, 129
  46. Recette de la Genoise, 126
  47. Riz à l’Anglaise, 127
  48. Riz à la Valenciennes, 110
  49. Rognons de Mouton Sautés, 116
  50. Salade à la Due de Morny, 122
  51. Sauce Béarnaise, 119
  52. Sauce Blanche, 119
  53. Sauce Bordelaise, 119
  54. Sauce Hubert, 119
  55. Sauce Tartare, 118
  56. Sauce Tomate, 118
  57. Soupe à la Julienne, 109
  58. Soupes à l’Oseille, 108
  59. Un Pudding de Mais, 126
  60. Z’Affaire Cabri e’est pas Z’Affaire Mouton, 128


INTRODUCTION

A friend of mine, in the South, once said to me, that the surrender at Appomatox had brought about two serious calamities — an end to duelling and the disappearance of the colored cook. We may at least agree with him that the latter result is a matter deeply to be deplored by all who, like myself, remember the marvellous skill of the Southern cooks. I used to be of opinion that the frying-pan should be our national emblem, so complete was its culinary despotism in New England and the West; indeed, when once I was at Marquette and Duluth, buying a camp outfit, there was not a gridiron for sale in either town. But in the hands of a colored cook even the frying-pan ceased to be an instrument for producing dyspepsia; and what other black art there was in the kitchens where the dark mammys reigned, who now can say? It was a rule-of-thumb business which was never written, save in some old-time receipt book, and was literally handed down from one generation to another.

The well-mannered colored folk, with aristocratic tastes, still existed in my native city when I was young. One of them, who was formerly my nurse, was always sent for to cook the terrapin when there was a dinner party. She turned the other servants out of the kitchen, and performed her kindly incantations alone! North of us, no one has ever been able to cook terrapin, which accounts for many things. As a race, we are certainly not gifted with culinary talent, nor have I ever heard of an attempt to patent a receipt or a new salad. It was therefore a great pleasure to see the little book in which my friend has preserved some of the famous receipts of the Creole kitchen. When, too, I saw, and indeed heard, the gay songs which were considered needful to be sung in the making of a Gumbo or of a Jambalaya, I felt that this was an addition to the business of the cook which must have lifted it to the level of the Arts we call Fine; for surely the mingling of music with a sauce or a salad dressing is a refinement of which no cordon bleu has ever dreamed! I have heard of but one other use of song in the preparation of food. A certain bishop, staying in a modest farmhouse, was struck with the fact that, just before breakfast, he heard the cook singing a well-known hymn. On expressing his satisfaction at this act of early devotion, he was told she had discovered that exactly the time needed to sing two verses was that which was required to boil an egg. I am sure there are many who will be charmed by the pretty little songs in the Creole patois of the far Southern kitchen, and will in a double sense appreciate the taste of the receipts, and the effort to preserve the folk-lore of the Southern cook. As I recall her, in Virginia, she was usually a fat woman of middle age, with a gay bandana kerchief about her head — proud of her art, somewhat despotic, and usually known as Aunty.

"A creature not too bright or good
For human nature’s daily food.”

S. WEIR MITCHELL


LA CUISINE CREOLE A L’USAGE DES PETITS MÉNAGES

De tous les côtés mes amis me demandent des recettes de la cuisine créole. On se souvient encore des délicieuses dindes truffées de la “Rivière Rouge” a moitie sauvages, engraissées aux pacannes et mangées, rue de la Victoire, chez ma sainte et bonne mère. — Un Anglais demande la recette d’un plat d’épinards, qui lui a valu son cœur. Un français celebre se souvient d’un delicieux roti de veau, qui est devenu presqu’ historique. Un Russe, quoique habitant Paris, ne peut oublier des perdrix étouffées aux tomates. . . Une élégante de New York a des souvenirs inoubliables d’un riz à la Valenciennes, goute a Biarritz sur la côte des Basques, en vue des belles Montagnes d’Espagne! Une autre élégante, m’a avoué qu’elle se mourait d’envie de manger du riz sec, comme les créoles seules savent le cuire. C’eut ete facheux de la laisser mourir de faim dans son beau Palais. — Un musicien célèbre soupire après des ceufs a la Portugaise, capable le lui faire manquer une inspiration musicale. Une jeune fille reclame a grands cris des ceufs a la morelle, une autre ne peut se consoler de ne plus manger du couchcouche ou couscousse.

Brillat Savarin dit: “Qu’il n’y a que les gens d’esprit qui savent manger,” “qu’on nait rôtisseur.” Alors à moins d’être spirituel ou inspiré des Dieux, on ne saurait goûter ce modeste petit ouvrage, qui resterait une énigme pour bien des lecteurs; mais l’art de savoir manger et de rôtir, ainsi que de faire la cuisine peut s’acquérir avec un peu de patience, beaucoup d’observation et passablement de soin. — Je ne me propose pas d’écrire un ouvrage culinaire — que Dieu m’en preserve! — mais de griffonner seulement à la hâte et au hasard la recette de quelques bons plats créoles et bourgeois, que j’ai en la bonne chance d’apprendre à faire en furetant dans de vieilles recettes et en causant avec les vieilles commères d’autrefois.

Souvent ou demande ce que c’est qu’un gombo créole? c’est un mets indien dont ils se regalaient generalement un jour de noce et dont nous jouissions, avant la guerre, dans les réunions intimes après une danse. Il peut se faire avec du gibier, de la volaille, de la dinde, du veau, des rogatons, à la rigueur même un hibou.

II decoule de ce mets national parmi les créoles, qui leur est si familier que, ce terme “gombo” est devenu une expression generique tres-importante au figuré, par la variete meme de sa composition et par conséquent son impenetrabilite une fois fait, exemple: en littérature un “gombomêlé” est une grosse affaire très-compliquée, relevant souvent de différends dans les familles nombreuses ou parmi un grand cercle d’amis, et rendue très-confuse.

Ne soyez pas étonnés de ces quelques notes de musique, c’est le piment de la sauce. Quand les nègres travaillent bien, ils sont contents et fiers de leur ouvrage et expriment leur contentement en chantant, c’est l’éloquence de leurs sentiments.

Lee fines herbes sont le parfum de la cuisine, mais il faut en user avec la meme discretion que les parfums — ils sont: oignons, persil, cerfeuil, civette, estragon, feuilles de laurier — afin de laisser à chaque mets son goût particulier ou son individualité. — Le secret de la bonne cuisine est: la plus exquise propreté, avoir les meilleurs ingredients, un beurre frais, la meilleure huile d’olive, les ceufs tres-frais — et beaucoup de temps pour tout préparer avec soin; un bon feu égal, des braises, pas de flammes — le triomphe des gargotiers! La bouillotte est aussi une ennemie fatale de la bonne cuisine; il faut s’en méfier. Un général russe disait que 1’eau etait si désagréable dans les bottes, qu’est-ce que ça devait être dans l’estomac! Je n’ai qu’à regarder le feu d’une cuisinière pour savoir quelle espèce de cordon bleu elle est. J’ai entendu à un homme d’esprit dire: que si l’on pendait un gargotier une fois par mois, peut-être qu’an bout de l’année on parviendrait à avoir de bons cuisiniers. La cuisine est une grave affaire; la santé de l’humanité en dépend; le bonheur de l’intérieur y est intéressé, et la justice pourrait s’en mêler.

La base de la cuisine créole est le roux. Il faut s’appliquer particulierement a bien le faire; autrement vos plats seraient fadasses et trop gras. En voici à peu près la recette; mais la pratique seule en donnera l’expérience. Le goût en est le guide pour l’assaisonnement c’est là qu’est le talent de l’artiste, comme le sentiment de la poésie, de la musique, de la peinture, autrement dit, le genie.






COOKING IN OLD CREOLE DAYS

GUMBO FILÉ

Put into a casserole (saucepan) a spoonful of pure lard and one of flour, stir it well until it is of a light brown. Chop an onion into small pieces and throw them in. Cut up a fat capon or chicken into small pieces and put these in the casserole with the flour and lard. Stir it all the while until the chicken is nearly done. When the whole is well browned, add a slice of ham, cut up small. Throw in two or three pods of red pepper, and salt to your taste. Now add a quart of boiling water, and leave it on the fire for two hours and a half. A quarter of an hour before dinner is served add three dozen oysters with their liquor. Just before taking the soup off the fire, put in a tablespoonful of filet, stirring it all the while. Let it boil one minute and then serve. Do not put in too much filet; the spoon should not be full. Indeed, half a tablespoonful is enough.

Louise Livingston Hunt, New Orleans.

CREME D’ORGE

One pound of lean veal, one pound of lean beef, and two ounces of pearl barley. Put them into a quart of cold water and let it boil down to a pint. Rub all through a sieve. Melt a spoonful of this strengthening jelly when required.

GUMBO FILÉ

Disjoint and cut up a fowl. Fry in pan with onion cut up. Put in a soup pot knuckle of veal, fried fowl covered in 31-2 quarts of cold water, let it simmer on back of range about six hours, strain soup and skim off all grease, cut up white meat of chicken and put in stock with a quart or more of oysters, add salt, cayenne pepper, white pepper. When at boiling point sprinkle in, or sift in, powdered filet enough to thicken it.

— Mrs. Eugenia Phillips

For very many years Mrs. Phillips had the most elegant table and the most delicious dishes in Washington, D. C. No one could rival her in taste and daintiness; her hospitality was boundless.

Leek and potato soup is another of the same Frenchwoman’s dishes. Cut several leeks, or, if they cannot be had, an onion or two, into pieces, and fry them without browning in butter. Add potatoes cut into dice and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and boil. When they are soft push them through a colander, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of butter. For two small onions four potatoes and a quart of water will be wanted. Instead of using the water in which the potatoes have boiled, milk may be used.

OKRA GUMBO

Put into a saucepan a spoonful of pure lard and one of flour. Stir it well until it is of a light brown. Chop an onion into small pieces and throw them in. Cut up a fat capon or chicken into small pieces and put it into the saucepan with the flour and lard. Stir it all the while until the chicken is nearly done. When the whole is well browned, add a slice of ham cut up small. Throw in two or three pods of red pepper, and salt to your taste. Then add a quart of boiling water, and leave it on the fire for two hours and a half. During that time you take either a can of okra or the fresh okra, and chop it up a bit. Put it in a saucepan with a little water and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time. Then add to it either six fresh tomatoes, or half a can of tomatoes, and let it cook on a slow fire for an hour, uncovered. When your gumbo has been on the fire the two hours and a half, you take it off to cool, and skim all the grease off. Then you put it back in the saucepan and add your okra and tomatoes and let it simmer slowly for an hour or until the okra is thoroughly cooked. Serve hot, and eat it with dry rice served in a separate dish.

Mme. Eusis, Mère.

CRAB GUMBO

Take half a pound of nice veal, cut it in slices; or take half a chicken, which you cut in small pieces. Brown it well, as you do for the gumbo filet. Let it simmer on the fire an hour and a half. Pick very carefully twelve or fifteen crabs, keeping the flesh only. Warm them up in a separate saucepan with a spoonful of butter for a few minutes. Pour it then in your pot over your veal. Add a few small pieces of fried ham. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Before you mix the veal and crabs take out all the large pieces of veal, so that the crabs may predominate, It should be of a thick consistency. Serve hot, with dry rice in a separate dish.

—Josephine Nicaud, New Orleans

HERB GUMBO

Clean and prepare a good handful of fresh spinach leaves, a handful of beetroot leaves, a handful of radish leaves, a handful of mustard leaves, a handful of patience leaves, one head of lettuce. Throw them in hot water and let them boil like spinach, then let them drip in a colander, chop them all together on a nice clean board, as you do spinach. Fry a dozen small pieces of ham cut in pieces an inch long and half an inch wide, and also half a chicken cut in pieces, or a piece of veal, say half a pound. Add a cup of water and let it simmer three quarters of an hour or until all are soft. Then add your herbs. Let them simmer together for a quarter of an hour. If it looks too thick add a few tablespoonfuls of water. It must have the consistency of a thick puree. To be served hot, and eaten with dry rice.

Josephine Nicaud.

CRAWFISH BISQUE

Take two or three dozen crawfish, throw them in boiling water for a minute or two, clean them thoroughly. Take off the heads, empty them, and clean them and wash them, keeping the fat part of the tails. Put them on a chopping board with the fat, a little chicken or veal, a little stale bread, chop it all fine together, flavor with pepper, red or black, a laurel leaf, or put in a bouquet of aromatic herbs for a few minutes, having tied it with a thread so as to pull it out. Brown all this in a saucepan with a spoonful of lard. Stuff the crawfish heads tight with this. Put them in a saucepan to simmer with a quart of bouillon for an hour or more, until you have a good soup. Serve hot.

Mme. Josephine Nicaud,
Who has been for over forty years in Ambassador Eustis’ family.

BOUILLON A LA JAMES MADISON

Two gallons of water, throw in every bone you have (ham bones are excellent), with three good sized carrots, three onions, celery, a can of tomatoes. Salt and pepper pod to taste. Simmer, closely covered, all day and all night. The next morning strain into a large bowl. If in a hurry set bowl in cold water, otherwise put in cellar or on ice. Remove the grease very carefully. Cut up fine, size of dice, three pounds of rump of beef, take two eggs and break them over the cut meat, yolk and white. Stir freely. Add celery, salt and pepper, pour the bouillon on it, settle it on the fire, stir until the froth rises. Skim off very carefully, strain off through a nice clean cloth or flannel. Set aside for use. When ready to serve, warm the quantity desired, throw in small pieces of celery, cover closely, throw a bunch of chervil and a glass of good sherry in the soup according to taste.

Cook, born in James Madison’s family.


POT AU FEU

THE POT AU FEU IS SERVED DAILY IN FRENCH FAMILIES

Take two pounds of round of beef, cutting off all the fat very carefully, put it in a good sized saucepan, add cold water enough to cover the meat well, put the lid on half way to allow the steam to evaporate, let it simmer by a fire of live coals an hour, and skim carefully as the scum arises. While your broth is cooking, prepare your vegetables, have them nice and fresh, wash and scrape carefully (requisite care must be taken), throw them into a pan of cold water until the time to use them. Cut three carrots in half, too leeks the same way, or half an onion, a small piece of cabbage and a bit of garlic, a piece of celery, parsley and pepper pod. Put all these vegetables in your broth, adding two or three tomatoes, or two spoonfuls of tomatoes; let it simmer for two hours, skimming it carefully. It can be served with or without vegetables. Without vegetables it can be served as bouillon, to which you add rice, vermicelli, macaroni, or any other Italian paste, or bread dried in the oven, or drop in a poached egg, one for every person, if your dinner is a little short.

These receipts were given to me by an old colored cook who was brought up in James Madison’s family, and she said they were served on Mr. Madison’s table when he entertained the distinguished guests of his day.



SORREL SOUP

Take a handful of sorrel, cook it ten minutes in a spoonful of fresh butter, add a quart of water, salt and pepper, and let it simmer half an hour over a slow fire. Stir in white of an egg, and then let it cook two minutes only, stirring it all the time. Rub in a cup the yolk of an egg with a small piece of butter. Add a cup of cream. Put some pieces of stale bread cut in slices in the bottom of your soup tureen. Chop fine some chervil and sprinkle on top just as you serve it very hot.

Leonie Penin.


BARLEY SOUP WITH CELERY

Melt a heaping spoonful of fresh butter in a frying-pan; put to it a cupful of barley; let it brown a few moments; add to it two quarts of good broth, and salt to taste. Let it simmer two hours or more on a slow fire; chop into it small pieces of celery — let it simmer half an hour. Dissolve in a glassful of sweet cream the yolks of six eggs, a spoonful of fresh butter added in small pieces, and add all to the soup.


OKRA SOUP

Soak in a little cold water for an hour or two one pint of the dried okra, add this with the water to one gallon of good strong beef stock. Also one quart of tomatoes, (strained through a colander), a half cupful of rice, and one pint of chopped Irish potatoes. Season with salt, green pepper, or cayenne, chopped celery and onion. Boil in a porcelain kettle at least five hours, stirring frequently with a silver spoon, or new wooden spoon, or the soup will become dark. The gallon must be maintained by adding boiling water at intervals as required. This should result in a rich, thick soup, such as is liked in the South. Some cooks prefer to boil meat and vegetables together, removing the meat when tender, cutting it into pieces, and returning it to the soup a few minutes before serving.

Mrs. William C. Hill.


SIMPLE, CLEAR TOMATO SOUP

Boil your tomatoes with onion and butter thoroughly. Add to clear stock, or broth, half of white of egg to clear. Let it stand, then pass through cheesecloth that has been washed.


TOMATO SOUP

Cut one ounce of ham, a little carrot and onion into thin slices, place these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, one bay leaf and a few peppercorns. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir together on the fire until it becomes a light brown color. Moisten with a quart of good broth, or stock, stirring it on a slow fire. Add one quart of canned tomatoes, and season with salt, pepper and two ounces of brown sugar. Let it boil together for one hour, after being thoroughly strained.


SOUTHERN TOMATO SOUP

Southern tomato soup is a meal in itself. Wash two quarts of tomatoes, and set over the fire in three pints of water; cook ten minutes, and drain, saving the water for the soup; press the tomatoes through a sieve, add to them one cucumber, peeled and cut small, one large onion sliced, one dozen okras (also sliced), a five cent marrowbone and the water drained from the tomatoes. Simmer for three hours, and just before sending to table thicken with a tablespoonful of flour wet with cold water. Season with salt, cayenne and three pats of butter.


BONNE FEMME SOUP

Shred fine a cucumber (already soaked) and four lettuce, one onion and a handful of chervil. Put these into a soup pot, with two pats of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Simmer over a slow fire about ten minutes, then add a good spoonful of flour, and three pints of veal broth. Boil for a quarter of an hour. Stir into it a seasoning of six yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of sugar. Do not let it boil after the egg and cream are added.


SOUP WITHOUT MEAT

Take four or five cucumbers, according to their size, pare and cut them in small square pieces; three cupfuls of lettuce cut in shreds, two sprigs of mint, a little parsley, two or three small onions (all shredded), with a pint of young peas. Put all these herbs into a stewpan, with nearly a quarter of a pound of butter, some salt, and a little cayenne pepper. They must stew gently for an hour. Boil a pint of old peas in a full quart of water. When quite soft run them through a sieve, with a wooden spoon, then add them, together with the water they have been boiled in, to your stewed herbs, and let them all stew together a full half hour. This soup is all the better if it does not stand long before it is served up.


OYSTER AND PEANUT SOUP

Take half a pound of shelled and roasted peanuts, well pounded. Add two spoonfuls of flour, mix well, boil a pint of oyster water and mix with the peanuts and flour, let it thicken slowly for fifteen minutes, stirring all the time. Add a pint of oysters and let them cook five minutes. Flavor with salt, red and black pepper.

—Josephine Nicaud,


OYSTER SOUP

Wash and drain two quarts of oysters, put them on the fire with three quarts of water, three onions chopped up, two or three slices of lean ham, pepper and salt. Boil until it is reduced one half, strain through a sieve. Return the liquid into the pot. Put in one quart of fresh oysters. Boil until they are sufficiently done and thicken the soup with four spoonfuls of flour, two gills of rich cream, and the yolks of two nice fresh eggs, well beaten. Boil it a few minutes after the thickening is put in. Take care that it does not curdle, and that the flour is not in lumps. Serve it up with the last oysters that were put in. If the flavor of thyme is agreeable you may put in a little, but take care that it does not boil in it long enough to discolor the soup.

— Mary Randolph.


NEW ORLEANS OYSTER SOUP

Make “a brown” [a roux]. A brown is made by putting a lump of butter or lard into a saucepan, adding flour, and stirring until it becomes a rich brown, but is not burned. Add to your brown, salt and pepper. Take a quart of oysters, separate them from their water. Add a pint of fresh water to your brown, then put in the oyster water, let it simmer slowly for half an hour. Then put in a little parsley. Add your oysters a quarter of an hour before serving, and small pieces of fried bread or biscuits. A few minutes before serving cayenne pepper can be added to taste, also vermicelli instead of crackers, or small green onions.

—Josephine Nicaud.


BLACK BEAN SOUP

One pint of black Mexican beans, put them in five pints of water (without soaking), boil about five hours. Pass beans and liquid through a sieve, half an hour before serving; do it thoroughly, that it may be thick enough. Put it back into the pot with salt, pepper, bunch of thyme, onions, a quarter of lemon cut in thin slices, and a tablespoonful of butter. Have two eggs, boiled hard, cut up in your tureen, and a wineglass of good wine. Pour soup on it and give it a stir.

Mrs. Morris Addison.


CALF’S HEAD SOUP

First cut the head in half, take out the brains, crack up the head, wash it, put it in the pot, boil half an hour. Take out, wash, clean and scrape it, put back in the pot, boil until soft, take out, pick out all the bones. Part the lean meat from the jelly meat. Cut up the jelly meat fine. Put back in the pot, thicken with flour, season with cloves, black pepper, onions and wine.

— “Uncle John”The best chef in South Carolina, Mr. Le Garee’s and Mrs. Phoenix’s cook.


NEW ENGLAND CHOWDER

Have a fresh, firm cod or haddock, a fish about five pounds is the best size. Take saucepan large enough to hold a little more than you wish to make. Cut salt pork in small squares about the size of dice, and fry quite brown. Lay in the same pan alternate layers of thin sliced potatoes first, then slices of fish, then broken water crackers, small fried pork, shreds of raw onion, black pepper and salt to suit the taste. Continue the layers until you have used up your material. Pour over it the pork fat from the scraps and half a pint of water, to keep from burning at the bottom. Close the saucepan tight and set on the fire. Cook slowly, without stirring, for forty-five minutes, when it is ready for the table. As some fish cook drier than others, if you do not find the chowder thin enough to serve well in tureen, add some fresh milk just before taking up, and let it come to a boil.

Parker House, Boston, Sept. 23, 1873.



CHOWDER FOR EIGHT PERSONS

Boil, mash and pass through a colander six potatoes. Slice and fry brown six onions. Soak quite soft two ship biscuits. Fry four slices of salt pork, the fat cut in small dice. Cut in pieces about an inch thick three or four pounds of fish, either cod or sea bass, or blackfish, which are the best; then proceed as follows: Put in your pot four tablespoonfuls of butter, and two of salt, scatter a portion of the fried onion in it, then a layer of fish, free from bones, season with a teaspoonful of black pepper, half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half of cloves, add a bouquet of thyme, then put in a layer of potatoes. Repeat the same operation, leaving out the spice and thyme. Then pour in stock enough to cover the whole about four inches, place on the fire, add the biscuit and pork, and three tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and cook slowly for an hour. Then add the juice of a lemon, and five lumps of sugar. Color the soup a dark brown. When ready to serve add a tumbler of sherry.

Compliments of Mr. Peter Marie.


CHICKEN PANADE

Boil a large fowl in a quart and a half of water, and boil down to a quart. Skim the fowl and pound it, bones and all, in a mortar. Spread this paste in a sieve and rub it through. Then pour over it the liquor in which the fowl was boiled, and pour the mixture hot over a stale French roll, well grated. Take a little frequently throughout the day.


RAW BEEF SOUP

One pound of chipped beef. Put into a preserve jar with four ounces of water and four drops of muriatic acid poured over it. Put the top down tight, shake, and put on the ice for twelve hours, then put the jar into a pan of cold water (bain-Marie) and put it on the fire for an hour until the water is hot, then strain the contents of the jar off with pressure through a cloth, and put it on the ice until it is cold. Take it off the ice and let it stand ten minutes before serving. Salt to taste.


CHICKEN BROTH

Take a chicken or fowl (small pieces of the former make the broth very good) and break the bones. Clean it carefully. Put it into a saucepan with two quarts of water, a very small onion, a little salt, and two tablespoonfuls of rice. When it boils skim and cover closely, and let it simmer slowly for six hours, if a fowl; if a chicken, for five hours.

Mrs. Jefferson Coolidge.


BEEF TEA

Three pounds of lean beef. Cut out all the fat and gristle, put it in a covered saucepan, with one clove, and a lump of ice, the size of your fist, in the centre of the beef, and the remainder of the beef laid over it. Let it stand back on the range and simmer until all the juice is extracted, then let it have one boil up. Only season as much as you intend using at once. The remainder can be kept on ice and seasoned as required with salt, pepper, celery salt, or to suit the taste of the patient.


JUMBALLAYA A LA CREOLE

Add to a cupful of rice, which has boiled five minutes, a rich brown chicken fricassee, put it in a saucepan, not closely covered, let it dry slowly, turn with a fork. The Carolinians make different perlous prepared in the same way by adding cooked tomatoes and butter. Green peas with a little butter is delicious. Okra and tomatoes fried together and added to rice. Oysters a little fried in butter. Hopping John is made in the same way with small pieces of fried ham, fried sausages, to which you add some cow peas that have been partially boiled. Season highly. The St. Domingo Congris is like the Hopping John.


PLAIN BOILED RICE

Take a cup of the best South Carolina rice (whole). Wash it three times in cold water until the water is clear. The fourth time wash it in hot water, put it in a saucepan with enough hot water to cover it, salt it, and cover closely. Let it boil from five to ten minutes. Test it with your fingers. If cooked, pour off the water, add to it a quarter cupful of cold water, cover closely, and set awhile on the stove to soak. If you fear its clinging to the saucepan stir it with a fork, not a spoon. Your rice will soak and dry beautifully.


CHINESE RICE

Take equal parts of rice and cold water. Wash your rice in several waters, put it in a saucepan, salt, and let it boil. When cooked put aside to soak until dry. Be careful, it burns easily. Every grain of rice will be separate and dry.

“Mon Repos,” Aiken, S. C. — Miss Eustis.


HOPPING JOHN

Cup of cow peas, boil with piece of bacon. When peas are thoroughly done, not till mushy, drain water off, three hours boiling. Boil separately a well washed cupful and a half of rice. Mix together after it is done. Skim off grease from top of pot peas are boiled in, add salt and cayenne pepper, put in oven to dry out. Serve with sliced bacon in centre or fried sausages.

— Mrs. Eugenia Phillips, Washington, D. C.


JUMBALLAYA

A SPANISH CREOLE DISH

Wash one pound of rice and soak it an hour. Cut up a cold roast chicken, or the remnants of a turkey, and a slice of ham, and fry them in a tablespoonful of lard. Stir in the rice, and add slowly while stirring in, a pint of hot water. Cover your pot, and set where it can cook slowly, until the rice is nearly dry. One or two spoonfuls of cooked tomatoes give it a very good taste. Jumballaya is very nice made with oysters, shrimps or sausages.

— Mrs. Eustis, Mere.


DELICIOUS BREAKFAST DISH

Take some hog meat prepared for sausages. Chop up some well boiled pig’s feet, mix with it, and wrap up in a lace. Fry it, and serve hot.

— Mrs. Alzire Dubroca, Baton Rouge.


JUMBALLAYA

Take a good sized chicken. Cut it as for fried chicken, season it with salt and pepper, and fry in a spoonful of lard. Cut up half a pound of ham in pieces an inch long, and fry in the same pan. When that is fried, take out and in the same lard fry a spoonful of onions cut very fine. Slice up three large tomatoes, or two spoonfuls of canned tomatoes, and fry them in the same pan. Cut up a little parsley and add when everything is fried. Put back your ham and chicken and add two and a half cupfuls of water. Let it come to a boil, and then add a cupful of well washed rice. Put it again on a quick fire. When the rice is cooked, and the steam begins to rise, put it on a slow fire and add a teaspoonful of butter. If you fear it may burn at the bottom of the pot, use a fork, not a spoon, as the latter makes the rice soggy. Let it soak or dry thoroughly. If it does not dry fast enough, put for a moment in the oven.

— Lydia Eustis.


RIZ A LA VALENCIENNE

Make a nice brown fricassee, with a good sized fowl highly flavored; let it simmer for two hours. Make about a pint of tomato sauce, adding to it red and green peppers. It must have cooked two hours. Mix it with the chicken fricassee, let it simmer together. Take a cup of best Carolina rice, prepare it as for boiling in hot water for five minutes. Use a tureen or dish that will go to the fire, put in it your chicken, then the rice on top, add two or three spoonfuls of the best olive oil, put it in a moderately hot oven, watching it closely; if it gets dry baste it with a few spoonfuls of broth on top but do not stir it. Artichokes may be added to it. Serve at table in the tureen. Warmed over the next day it is even better.


HOPPING JOHN

Take a cupful of cow peas (small black peas) that have been soaked over night, one onion, parsley and a laurel leaf. Let them boil in a quart and a pint of water for an hour, or until soft. Add two cupfuls well washed raw rice. The rice must cook about fifteen or twenty minutes. Then add a quarter of a pound of well-fried sausages, a slice of ham and a small piece of bacon, both cut in small pieces and fried. Put your saucepan aside to soak, or dry. Cover closely. Be careful it does not burn at the bottom. If the rice has to be stirred use a fork, as it turns easily, and still can not be stirred too much, or it becomes soggy. Those old-fashioned black pots are the best to use.

— “Uncle John,” S. C.


DAUBE GLACEE OR BŒUF A LA DAUBE

Take a round of beef, clean and dry it carefully with a towel, rub it in with salt, pepper and cloves, laid with smoked tongue or beef suet or forcemeat and a little garlic. Put it in a cool place and let it remain for three or four days in winter. The night before it is to be cooked, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the beef, on the sides. After breakfast put the beef in a Dutch oven with some drippings — let it be boiling hot before you put the beef in. Brown well on both sides, then draw the oven from the fire and let it simmer for three hours, then pare and halve six large onions, stew them over the beef — let it continue to simmer for three hours longer, add forcemeat balls, or a calf’s foot — serve it with gravy in the dish and sauce boat.

— Mrs. Eugenia Phillips, Washington, D. C.


MACARONI

Macaroni must be thrown into plenty of boiling water to cook it well. Then drain it off and put it in a dish with butter, salt and a little powdered mustard and put it in the oven until there is a nice crust on top. Grated cheese of any kind may be added, or a few tablespoonfuls of well cooked tomatoes, or a few tablespoonfuls of Italian mushrooms stirred up with chicken livers, or the remnants of pate de foie gras, or chopped ham or salt tongue, in fact almost anything that will give it a nice relish.


DAUBE GLACÉE

Take five or six pounds of the round of beef, two inches thick. Two days before cooking it, lard it with strips of lard half an inch thick and three inches long. Tie it in a round with a string, not too tight. Season with salt, and black and red pepper, and put in a good pinch of saltpetre. Let your larding be almost an inch and a half apart. Rub up your daube with an onion and whatever falls from the seasoning. Put it away in a china tureen in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Early the next day take one of these thick, black saucepans and put in the bottom of it a piece of pig skin the size of the saucepan. Put in a bouquet of thyme, parsley, two laurel leaves, one onion, and a small piece of garlic. Take three calf’s feet that have been cut in halves by the butcher, lay them on top of the bouquet, and add half a cupful of meat juice. Let it simmer on a slow fire for half an hour, then add enough water to allow the calf’s feet to simmer very slowly for five or six hours, until the bones detach themselves from the meat, the gravy to be tested with the fingers until it has a gelatinous consistency. The pot must be closely covered, and a weight put on the cover so that it touches the meat. The calf’s feet must be boiled before they are put in the daube, and that gelatinous water used when your daube is cooked. Put it in a clean tureen to take a round form. Take out the calf’s feet, skim the grease off the sauce and pass it warm through a flannel bag. Put in two egg shells before straining it, and let it cook a while to clear the jelly. Cut two well cooked carrots in halves. Put them in the bottom of your tureen and place your daube on top. Pour your jelly on the sides of the daube, so that it runs on the bottom of the tureen and on the sides, remembering that when you turn it out in a dish the bottom part will be on top. Put in a cool place, or near the ice. You will have to try several times before you succeed in making this very choice and delicious dish, which is meant for cold weather only.

— Mrs. Eustis, Mere.


ROAST BEEF

Take a roast of beef, as many pounds as you need according to the number of persons. Wipe well with a clean cloth, salt and pepper it, and flour it. Before you put it in a roast pan, put in that pan a small piece of bacon, a small piece of onion, and a carrot cut in two, with two tablespoonfuls of meat juice or bouillon, not hot water. Water is very good to wash with, but not to flavor meats with! Put your meat in the roast pan in a moderate oven, and cook it by a good fire a quarter of an hour for every pound of meat. Baste it with the drippings, and watch it carefully.


YORKSHIRE PUDDING TO SERVE WITH HOT ROAST BEEF

One and a half pints of milk, six large tablespoonfuls of flour, three eggs, one small spoonful of salt. Put the flour into a basin with the salt, and stir into it gradually enough milk to make a stiff batter. When perfectly smooth, add the rest of the milk, and the eggs well beaten. Beat the mixture for a few moments and pour it into a shallow tin, which has previously been well rubbed with beef drippings. Put the pudding into the oven and bake for one hour, then for half an hour place it under the beef, to catch a little of the gravy. Cut the pudding into small square pieces. Put them on a hot dish and serve. If the meat is baked, the pudding may at once be placed under it, resting the meat on a small three-cornered stand.

— Katie Seabrook, Pres. McKinley’s Cook.


FILET MARINE

When you have a good roast beef, after using the sirloin for your dinner, cut out the filet and put it on a dish. Salt and pepper it, rub a little onion over it, pour a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and two spoonfuls of best sweet oil over it. From time to time baste it with the drippings. Warm it up for another meal, basting it while it is cooking over a slow fire. Serve with fried potatoes. When you have a remnant of pate de foie gras, use it with boiled macaroni. It can be put back in the paste and warmed over in the oven.


TO BROIL A STEAK

Have your gridiron hot. Wipe the steak clean. Put it in a dish with melted butter, and then put on the hot gridiron and broil ten minutes. Turn it twice, and season with salt, pepper and butter.

—"Uncle John,” S. C.

BRISKET OF BEEF

Take one pound bag salt, two of saltpetre, a little sugar, and a few cloves. Rub this mixture well into the beef every day for a week. Then it is fit for use. According to the size of the piece of beef, the mixture must be proportionally stronger.


LEG OF MUTTON

Mutton should be kept and hung several days, rub it all over with an onion, or a small piece of garlic, baste from time to time, with tarragon vinegar and black pepper. Make a mop with a nice clean rag and mop it all over several times. Roast it and serve hot, do not let it stand.


TO BOIL A WESTPHALIA HAM

Let the ham soak over night. Boil it three hours in the same water, and let it cool off in the same. Skin it, put a layer of brown sugar on it moistened with sherry wine; let it brown, put in the oven a few moments. A Smithfield ham may be prepared the same way.

A TODD HAM

Soak forty-eight hours, changing water once or twice. Then put in cold water and let it come to a simmer (don’t boil), and simmer slowly for four hours. Then skin and dress with sugar and cracker crumbs, and bake half an hour until well browned.

— Mrs. Beale


HAM FRIED WITH SUGAR

Take a few slices of boiled ham. Sprinkle some brown sugar and a little dry mustard over it. Fry in butter until it browns. Serve hot, to be eaten with salad.


KIDNEY STEW

Take a medium sized beef kidney, put on fire in cold water with an onion, let it simmer, not boil, until tender. Cut in thin slices as large as a ten-cent piece. Put a piece of butter in frying-pan, shake some flour, let it brown, then add some of the liquor it was cooked in. Serve on toast. Veal kidney does not require’so long cooking; prepare same way.


TO STEW LAMB AND PEAS

Put the lamb into a stewpan with about a quart of water, when half done add the peas with pepper and salt to taste. Let them stew slowly and have ready some mint and parsley chopped fine, put it in and let all simmer slowly until ready to serve.


MRS. KELLY’S DELICIOUS MUTTON STEW

Cut in large slices some cold mutton. Take the gravy left from the day before and warm it. Take a separate saucepan, put in it a spoonful of butter, a little onion, cut fine, sprinkle a little corn farina, stirring all the time, until warm, then add the gravy. Put all in a double saucepan. Then put in the cold mutton and leave until it gets nice and hot.

Whitchurch.

DELICIOUS STEW

Cut some cold meat into small pieces. Brown golden, add small piece of butter, with a suspicion of onion, add a sprinkling of flour, and a little chopped parsley, half a cupful of stock or mutton broth. Let it simmer slowly for half an hour, adding your meat. Set it way back on your stove to get the heat. Keep it tightly covered until called for.

Katie Seabrook, Pres. McKinley’s Colored Cook.


TOMATO CURRY

A tomato curry is an excellent accompaniment to baked veal. Mix a tablespoonful of curry powder with a quart of cooked and seasoned tomatoes; put this in a dish, with alternate layers of uncooked rice, using a cupful of the latter in all; let the top layer be of bread crumbs; dot with butter, and bake an hour or until the rice is done.


VEAL CROQUETTES

Mince your veal fine. Mix one half cupful milk with one teaspoonful of flour, a piece of butter the size of an egg, cook until it thickens. Stir into it the meat. Roll into balls. Dip in egg with a little milk stirred in. Roll in browned bread crumbs. Fry in hot lard.


NICE COLD DISH FOR LUNCH, TO BE EATEN WITH SALAD

Boil a good sized chicken with onion, salt and parsley, (cover closely) for two hours. Add a knuckle of veal. Put enough water to cover your meat, and let it simmer an hour more. Take out your chicken when you put in your veal, and cut it up in half inch squares. When your stock is ready, season well with salt and pepper. Put your chicken in a mold with three hard boiled eggs, cut in halves, small pieces of ham or tongue, chicken livers, etc. Arrange it as directed in the mold. Pour the stock over it, and place to cool in the ice box, remembering that when you turn the mold out to serve, the bottom will be on top. This dish can be made very attractive by coloring the jelly with tomato juice.

Mme. Eustis, Mere.



POTTED VEAL

The livers to be well larded. Put in stewpan with lard, onion, carrots, pepper, salt, a few aromatic herbs, a glass of white wine, let them simmer for three hours. Add a calf’s foot, cut in half, and well boiled for several hours. Take out the bones of the calf’s foot, put in a bowl to get cold. Will form a nice jelly to be eaten with salad.


TERRAPIN STEW

Boil your terrapin soft. Put in a small piece of bacon, one or two onions, pepper and butter. Chop fine two or three hard boiled eggs. Put all together. Add a little wine.

“Uncle John.”


TERRAPIN

Put them in tub of cold water for about one hour, after which throw them into boiling water and boil until dead. Then take out and with a rough cloth wipe thoroughly all in and around shell and legs and feet, to get off any black skin or dirt. Then throw again into boiling water and cook until the shell comes off easily, and the claws pull off in the same way. Each terrapin has to be tried separately to see if the legs are soft and pliant and the shell and claws come off easily (age tells), and no amount of cooking in a chafing dish later will make tender if not cooked enough before being picked. Hold your terrapin over a dish so that any of the water that runs from it can be saved, and then take off the lower shell and take out the liver which has the gall bladder in, and, holding that over another dish, cut out the gall bladder as you may break it, and if you do, don’t want it to spoil your terrapin. Pick your terrapin, leaving the small bones in it, and when picked, to a pint of the meat and liquor add half pound best butter, saltspoonful of dry mustard, wineglass of good sherry or madeira, and salt to taste. Heat when ready to serve, but do not cook, and be sure and have hot plates. If you like it you can add about a cup of cream, but we do not do it at the club.

James H. Barney, President Maryland Club, 1870.


VEAL TERRAPIN

One pound lean veal, quarter pound veal liver, teaspoonful onion juice and four cloves. Cover with water and boil until tender. When cold cut meat and liver into small pieces. Thicken the water they were boiled in with a tablespoonful of butter rolled in about the same quantity of browned flour (or a little less of the latter). Pour this gravy over the meat and add two hard boiled eggs, cut fine, and a wineglassful of sherry with red pepper, and salt to taste. Heat and serve in chafing dish.


BALTIMORE STYLE OF MAKING TERRAPIN STEW WITHOUT TERRAPIN

Cut up a rabbit in pieces one inch square, and do the same thing with a calf’s head which has been thoroughly cleaned and prepared. Add to it whatever you may have left over of chicken livers, gizzards, and small pieces of fried bacon or ham. Flavor with salt, pepper and a laurel leaf. Let it simmer for two hours a day for two days, (four hours in all). Skim off all grease and add to it two or three hard boiled eggs, cut fine, and a wineglassful of white Wine.

Marshall Thomas, Deer Park, Md., July, 1889.


DELICIOUS FISH BALLS

Take a quart of hot potatoes, freshly boiled, a cup of warmed fish picked very fine, one egg, the white and yellow beaten lightly separately, a teaspoonful of nice butter, a tablespoon ful of fresh cream, add salt, red pepper, a little onion juice, and parsley chopped fine. Beat the whole to a light cream. Roll in balls and drop into plenty of very hot lard, like doughnuts, stirring them all the time.


CODFISH BALLS

One cupful raw salt fish, one pint potatoes, one egg well beaten, quarter saltspoonful pepper, and more salt if needed, one teaspoonful of butter. Wash the fish, pick in half inch pieces, and free from bones. Pare potatoes and cut in quarters. Put fish and potatoes in stewpan, cover with boiling water. Boil twenty-five minutes, or until potatoes are soft. Do not allow potatoes to get soggy. Drain off all water, mash and beat until very light. Add butter and salt, and when slightly cooled the eggs, and more salt if needed. Shape them without smoothing much. Slip off into frying hot lard one minute. Fry only five at a time.


CODFISH CAKES

Take six good sized potatoes, pare and boil; one pound codfish, put it over in cold water, do not let it boil. Mash fish and potatoes together. When hot season with salt and pepper to taste. Add a piece of butter, two eggs beat light with a fork, fry in boiling lard five minutes, put on sheets of brown paper. Serve hot with some crisp fried bacon.


CODFISH A L’ESPAGNOLE

Take a salt codfish, let it soak, simmer it on a slow fire, let it drip, and cut it in pieces. Put in the oven three or four large sweet peppers, skin them, slice them lengthwise, salt and pepper them.

Put two spoonfuls of sweet oil in a frying-pan. Chop up fine two onions, a piece of garlic, some parsley, cut up four fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper. Let it all cook for half an hour, add a half cupful of bouillon in which you dissolve a teaspoonful of flour, let it cook ten minutes, take out your parsley.

Boil a dozen Irish potatoes in their jackets, peel and slice them, line the bottom of a dish with them, then put some pieces of codfish, then some slices of sweet pepper, then tomato sauce, and a sprinkling of bread crumbs. Put in the oven thirty-five minutes. — Canned tomatoes and peppers can be used instead of fresh.


POTOMAC HERRINGS WITH ROE

When very fresh simply broil them over a slow fire. Baste them with butter, for quarter of an hour. If a few months old and a little dry, soak them before cooking three or four hours. The roe mixed at table with boiled hominy is most delicious for breakfast.


DEVILLED CRABS

Twelve crabs, half pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Put the milk on to boil, rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir and cook two minutes. Take from the fire and add the crab meat. The yolks of three hard boiled eggs mashed fine, then parsley, salt and pepper. Fill the shells, brush over with the white of an egg, cover with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven, or cook in a frying basket.


DEVILLED CRABS — NEW ORLEANS STYLE

Scald your crabs only in boiling water. Pick and clean them carefully. Take out the firm white flesh, and throw out the yellow. Moisten the flesh with a little sweet cream. Taste to see that it is not bitter. Put with it stale breadcrumbs, salt and pepper it, and put this back into the shells; sprinkle with bread crumbs, and put in the oven to brown. Serve hot.

Mme. Josephine Nicaud.


SAUCE A LA NEWBURG, FOR LOBSTER

Take a quarter of a pound of melted butter, and a whiskey glass of sherry wine, two yolks of eggs, a little salt and pepper to taste, a little lemon juice and half cupful of sweet cream, mixed well with half teaspoonful of cornstarch. Stir all together well on the fire without allowing it to burn or turn.

Compliments of Marshall Thomas.


COURTBOUILLON OF FISH

Make a good brown with a spoonful of lard and a little flour. Add a piece of garlic and half an onion, cut fine — let them brown well. Add two tablespoonfuls of well cooked tomatoes, salt, black coarse pepper, red pepper, two laurel leaves, and a coffeespoonful of saffron. Add enough bouillon to cover your fish, and to make a good sauce. Add half a cupful of good white wine. Take two pounds of very fresh, fine fish, take out the bones, and cut it up in pieces from two to three inches long and wide, salt well, and fry it in a little lard. Add the fried fish to your sauce and let the whole simmer together for half an hour. Do not turn your fish, so you may not break the pieces. Cover your pot half way, as you do for a soup, and serve hot.

Josephine Nicaud, New Orleans.


“MONICA’S” WAY TO COOK FISH

There are stock fish sometimes called tautog, Monica cooks them thus: Put the fish into a pan with a little butter. Let them fry until pretty nearly cooked, then put in a little wine, pepper and salt, and let them stew. Use no water — A little more wine, pepper and salt to make a good gravy — so says “Monica.”


POTATO BALLS

Pare and boil dry some potatoes. Then put them into a hot pan and mash with a lump of butter, salt and pepper. Beat this well, and make into small flat cakes. Dip them into egg and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Fry a nice brown.


PARTRIDGE A LA “UNCLE JOHN”

Take six or eight partridges, or small quails, brown them in a small pan with lard and a light sprinkling of flour. Add three tablespoonfuls of raw tomatoes, half a cupful of meat juice, onion, salt and pepper. Let them simmer an hour, covered. Baste them from time to time with the gravy. Serve with hot rice.

“Uncle John,”
Chef for Mr. Le Garee, of South Carolina.


STUFFINGS FOR TURKEYS AND DUCKS

Wild turkeys should be stuffed with corn bread, pecan nuts and truffles. Take a piece of corn bread left over from breakfast, moisten with a teaspoonful of sauce. Add about a dozen peeled pecan nuts, three or four cut truffles, mix well. Cook in saucepan. Stuff your turkey the day before. Always let your fowls hang by the legs. A wild turkey should cook an hour, perhaps a little more or less. Be careful it does not dry, as the flesh is rather dry. Carve it as you would a wild duck, in thick slices. Put a buttered paper on the breast of the wild turkey, to prevent its drying. Tame turkeys can be cooked and stuffed in the same way. Sausages well fried, with mashed potatoes, salt, and red pepper, make delicious stuffing for fowls.


TURKEY STUFFING

Equal parts of stale baker’s bread and nice corn bread left over from breakfast, a hard boiled egg. Chop up a few raw oysters, mix well together with butter, salt, pepper, red and white. Put in the oven to bake. Add to it a remnant of pate de foie gras and stuff the turkey. Turkey should not cook more than an hour or an hour and a quarter. Do not let it dry, the juice should run from it when it is carved, baste it with soup or stock.


STUFFING FOR FOWLS

Oysters, stale bread, onions, parsley, salt and pepper put in the frying-pan with a little butter make delicious stuffing. Truffles with stale bread and butter, warmed up together in a frying-pan, and flavored with salt, pepper, etc.

Spanish chestnuts and bits of ham are delicious stuffing.

Stuff your fowls the day before, and hang them up by the legs four hours before cooking.

Chop fine a pound of young calf. Season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Let it fry in a saucepan with a little butter and a sprinkling of flour. Add enough oyster water to soften it, and half a pint of oysters. Let all fry together to the consistency of a paste. This may be used for small pates also, and pigeons may be stuffed in the same way, and allowed to simmer in a saucepan, with a little gravy, closely covered.


CHICKEN CASSEROLE

Take a medium sized chicken, singe and draw and prepare it, put in casserole whole, add a good lump of butter, onion, salt and pepper. Steam gently on top of range two hours, then add mushrooms and vegetables to taste; brown and serve hot.

Lizzie Tomney.


CANVASBACK DUCK

Lose as little of the juice or blood as possible. Split it down the back. After singeing it very carefully, lay it on a gridiron with the split side toward the fire, which must be very hot. Keep flat on the gridiron by pressing the other half, but do not bruise the flesh by pressing too much. Allow the duck to remain over the fire twelve or fifteen minutes, then take off, and expose the breasts to the heat just long enough to brown the skin nicely. It is then cooked, and must immediately be served. A salad of celery mayonnaise is the proper thing to eat with it.

Mrs. Wilcox, Aiken, S. C.


HOW TO ROAST DUCKS

Don’t wash your ducks, but wipe them thoroughly with a clean cloth, inside and outside. Rub the back (inside and outside) with a small piece of onion. Salt and pepper them the same way. Tie them up tightly so the juice does not escape. Rub the breast of each duck with a spoonful of olive oil. Lay in your dripping-pan a slice or two of bacon, one carrot, one leek, two bay leaves, a piece of celery. Place the ducks on this, and let them cook in a moderate oven twenty-five minutes. Put in any dressing you would make for a roast chicken. With all your roast meats put in the bottom of your roast-pan a carrot cut in half, a piece of onion, celery and parsley. The same with boiled meats or fish, to give a foundation taste to your food.

Katie Seabrook, President McKinley’s Colored Cook.


HOW TO SERVE CHICKEN

Wash your chicken, dry with a nice clean cloth, put it in a tray of salt and water to cover ten minutes, dry it and salt and pepper and flour it well, throw it in a pan of hot lard, hot enough to make it a golden brown, when done lay it on a piece of very clean paper to absorb the grease. Throw off the top grease, put a handful of flour, stir to a brown, add to it a pint of stock, stir and strain, then put your chicken in and let it simmer slowly until the chicken gets soft; make a nice pot of mush, let it get cold, cut it and fry and serve with the chicken. Fry Jerusalem artichokes and let them simmer with the fricassee; this is also delicious.

Ellen White, Mrs. Madison’s Cook.


FOR BROILING CHICKEN

To prepare chickens to roast and broil, when once you have washed your chickens, wipe them carefully with a dry cloth. Salt and pepper them two or three hours before cooking, put them in the refrigerator. Put a little sweet oil over them before broiling them on a slow fire; while cooking baste them with a little water. For roasting chickens do the same as for broiling. Stuff them, put three or four large spoonfuls of butter inside the chicken. Bake one hour, slow fire.


NEW ORLEANS WAY TO COOK SNIPE

Take some jelly made of calf’s feet and madeira wine. A small piece of salt pork and a piece of liver. Chop the meat up fine, with seasoning of salt, red and black pepper. Put a few soda crackers in the oven and toast and pulverize them. Mix them with your chopped meat. Add chopped truffles and mushrooms, and just enough meat juice to soften it. Cut your snipe in two. Put them in a china tureen and fill in the empty places with this hash. Put it on a very slow fire for several hours, basting it with the

Mrs. Cuthbert Slocum.


CHICKEN PIE

Make a rich brown chicken fricassee. Tie a bouquet of aromatic herbs with a thread and let it stand in the fricassee five minutes, then take it out. Cut up two hard boiled eggs and put them in the fricassee. Cook thoroughly over a slow fire. Have your pie crust ready, and put the fricassee in it, not forgetting to prick the top crust with an iron fork in several places to allow evaporation. Otherwise it will ferment and the result will prove disastrous.

Aunt Rachel Coffin.


CHICKEN CROQUETTES

Pair of fowls weighing six pounds. Choose those with most breasts. Boil in sufficient water to cover them, with two onions, two carrots, small bunch of thyme and parsley, a few cloves and half a grated nutmeg. After they have become cold and very tender, divest them of skin, fat gristle and tendons, and chop the meat as fine as possible. A half pound of best butter to each chicken should be put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour, and cook together, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Add a gill or so of the stock in which the chickens are boiled, and a tumbler of rich cream. Boil eight or ten minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the fire and season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix well. Stir in milk rapidly, add the yolks of four eggs. Put all on the fire and stew the mixture for a moment, stirring briskly, after which pour the mass out in a flat dish, and let it remain until perfectly cool. Then make it up into pear shaped rolls with the assistance of a little flour to prevent the mixture from sticking to the fingers. When all are ready, dip each one separately into the yolk of eggs beaten with a little cream, and roll them as fast as dipped into fresh bread crumbs made from day old bread. Let them stand for an hour or so to dry. Now fry them a delicate brown in plenty of clear frying hot lard. Lay them in a colander to drain. Serve on a napkin in a warm dish.



NEW ORLEANS VEAL WITH OYSTERS

Make a brown with a spoonful of nice fresh butter, or lard. Chop a pound of nice, tender young veal. Flavor with salt and pepper. Put it in the frying-pan. Add a little flour. Let it come to a good color. Add a cupful of oyster water, and some well chopped parsley. Let it cook for half an hour over a slow fire. Add your oysters and let them cook five minutes. Never allow your parsley to fry. This makes a delicious stuffing for chickens and ducks by adding a little stale bread. It may be used also for small pates, or simply serve on pieces of toast.

Josephine Nicaud.


BLANQUETTE OF VEAL

Cut some very tender pieces of veal into square pieces. Let them brown in a saucepan with lard until they are a golden color. Add just enough cold water to cover them, with salt, pepper, onion, one carrot, parsley and laurel leaf, and let them simmer on a slow fire for two hours. Put in a fresh saucepan a tablespoonful of fresh butter and two of flour. Stir it well over the fire until it takes a good color. Moisten with a little meat juice and let it simmer. Dissolve in a cup the yolk of an egg with a little lemon juice, or a small spoonful of vinegar, and a large spoonful of cream. Stir it a bit and then add to your simmering sauce. Simply mix, and do not let them boil. Pour it over your meat which has been simmering in its juice. You can add mushrooms or chopped truffles to this dish for a dinner party.

Leonie Penin.


SAUCE BEARNAISE

To make this admirable sauce — a souvenir of the mountain home of Henri de Navarre — put in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots (small green onions), and four of white wine vinegar. Reduce to one half. Add six yolks of eggs, two tablespoonfuls of beef extract and stir on the fire with a wooden spoon, until it thickens. Put a little to the side, and add, a bit at a time, a half pound of good table butter, dropping a little water in when the sauce becomes too thick. Press through a napkin. Finish with finely chopped tarragon, chervil, parsley, and a pinch of red pepper.


DUTCH SAUCE

Yolks of two eggs, quarter pint of cream, two and a quarter spoonfuls of elder vinegar, a little fresh butter, flour enough to render the same the consistency of custard.

SAUCE BORDELAISE

Put a tablespoonful of finely chopped shallots (small green onions), two tablespoonfuls of bruised cloves, and two pieces of garlic into a saucepan with a little butter. Fry a little. Add two glasses of claret wine, a pint of Spanish sauce, and a pinch of red pepper. Reduce to the consistency of a sauce. Finish off with lemon juice, chopped parsley and four ounces of beef marrow cut in rounds, and hardly heated in salted boiling water. Use immediately.

Delmonico.


SAUCE FOR WILD DUCK

One tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of tomato catsup, lemon juice, salt, cayenne pepper.


LOBSTER SAUCE

One pound of lobster, three tablespoonfuls of cream, one of butter, salt, cayenne pepper. Beat the coral of the lobster with the cream and butter.


CALF’S LIVER A LA CELESTE SMITH

Cut a few slices of very tender veal into pieces three inches long and half an inch thick. Fry them in lard with a little onion chopped very fine. Add half a cupful of bouillon or sauce. Let them simmer half or three quarters of an hour. Add parsley well chopped. Boil a handful of best Italian macaroni. Put it in the bottom of a long dish. Pour your livers and sauce on top. Trim with slices of lemon. Old Celeste would say “it was a very vulgar dish, but a delicious one.”

Celeste Smith, Mme. Eustis Mere’s Cook.


NEW ORLEANS VEAL BALLS

Chop fine a pound of young veal. Season with salt, pepper, thyme and onion juice. Roll this in balls. Let them brown in a saucepan with butter an hour before you have prepared the sauce.

Josephs Nicaud.


SAUCE FOR VEAL BALLS

Make a brown with a nice piece of tender young veal, say one pound. Cut in pieces about half an inch thick, to which you add small pieces of fresh ham, well browned, a few slices of tomatoes well fried, and a little onion. Add to this half a cupful of soup or stock. Let it simmer slowly for half an hour. Then add your veal balls, freshly fried. Let them all simmer together until ready to serve. To be eaten with very hot rice. Sweetbreads can be put in this same sauce. When they have been thoroughly prepared, cook them, and baste in this sauce over a slow fire, and they come out a golden color. They are delicious when so cooked. Cold, eaten with lettuce salad, with French dressing.

Josephine Nicaud.


SPICED BEEF

Take round of beef and put in a porcelain pot. Over this pour one can of tomatoes, and put one bunch of carrots, and one onion, sliced fine. Put this on the back of the stove at three o’clock for an eight o’clock dinner, and let it cooked slowly all the time. A short time before dinner add a heaping tablespoonful of cloves and one of allspice, ground. Then take a cup of flour and brown it and make into gravy and add this to the rest.


STEWED TONGUE FOR LUNCH

Boil a fresh tongue until it is tender and dress it ready for the table. Take a little more than a pint of the water it was boiled in and add to it half a pint of port wine, a small tumbler of currant jelly, a small pinch of mace, and salt to taste. Stew the tongue in this gravy for an hour, and serve in the gravy.


CUCUMBER CATSUP

Take three dozen full grown cucumbers, pare and slice thin. Pare and slice two quarts of white onions very thin. Mix through them one pint of salt. Spread to drain for six or eight hours, and then squeeze perfectly dry. Put in a large bowl and add quarter pound brown sugar, half pint olive oil, half pound mustard seed, quarter pound ground black pepper, two quarts boiling vinegar. Mix well together. Then put in small jars and cover, if necessary, with cold vinegar and on top of each jar pour a little olive oil. Put in jars with tight tops.




VEGETABLES

SWEET POTATOES

Take six sweet potatoes, not too large, scrape them on a scraper. Add two spoonfuls of water, salt, pepper, sugar to taste, and a spoonful of butter. Mix all together to the consistency of a good paste. Put in a dish that goes to the fire, and place in the oven. Before doing so, take a straw and stick it on top to allow evaporation.


SWEET POTATO PUDDING

The same receipt as above. Add two eggs, half a cupful of milk and a little nutmeg.


SWEET POTATOES

Take the quantity of potatoes you wish to have, according to your family. Boil them until they are almost cooked, then peel and slice them. Sprinkle them with brown sugar, and fry in hot butter.

Peel and slice raw sweet potatoes. Let them soak a bit in very cold water, and fry them in plenty of hot lard. The more lard there is, and the hotter, the dryer your potatoes will be.

Take a few sweet potatoes, boil and peel them, and mash them with butter. Put them in a dish. Cover with brown sugar, and bake in the oven.

Sweet potatoes which are almost without taste are much improved if the tough outside skin is removed, and they are put under a roast of beef to cook. They will brown over nicely, and receive an agreeable flavor.


TO COOK AND SERVE TOMATOES

No product of the vegetable garden in the whole circuit of the year is more amenable to skill in cookery than the tomato. Perhaps no other is capable of appearing in so great a variety of palatable and satisfying dishes. It combines admirably with other ingredients in a wide range, making it one of the best subjects for experiment and practice in high grade cooking that we possess. No single vegetable can be made of more use in furnishing a liberal and elegant table. Let us now consider some of these uses, both of the usual and the more uncommon forms of serving it.

In the important matter of the family table, that true economy which consists of the best use of material to gain the desired end is greatly furthered by ingenuity in providing variety without extra expense. Here the skill of the cook has its actual money value; and no good housekeeper forgets that “money saved is money earned.”

Tomato Soups. — Either with or without meat stock, an excellent soup is easily made from tomatoes. A savory bisque requires only the quart or more of sliced tomatoes, stewed until tender with a little water, then pressed through a sieve and mixed with a pint of rich milk (an added cupful of cream improves it) slightly thickened by rubbing together two tablespoonfuls of flour with two of butter and cooking smoothly with the milk. Season to taste; a little cayenne is desirable, some will like a spoonful of onion juice, or celery salt may be preferred. Serve very hot, with crackers or croutons. For this and for most tomato soups, canned tomato may be substituted for the fresh fruit.

A soup stock of beef, mutton, lamb, veal or chicken makes a basis for a somewhat richer soup, and this is a convenient way of using remnants not otherwise available. Simmer the tomato slowly in the stock, coming in proportions to suit according to its richness. A weak stock may be re-enforced by a quart of tomato to a quart of stock, and a carrot or two added, with half a mild onion, two or three stalks of celery and a little bag of sweet herbs. When the vegetables are very tender, press through a fine sieve and thicken very slightly as before with flour and butter rubbed together.

Another good combination is with rice cooked very thoroughly and put through a strainer. In this case no flour is needed. Especially good with chicken, and the bones of a pair of roast fowls will make a delicious tomato soup.

With Various Meats. — Tomatoes may be roasted, broiled, baked, fried or stewed to accompany any kind of meat, or served in an almost infinite variety of combinations. They may be fried in deep fat or sauted — why have we no good English word to express that crisp, surface frying with a little butter or fat in a very hot pan? For baking, they may be carefully skinned and baked plain, set side by side in a baking dish, and serve hot with a little butter, salt and pepper in the centre of each. Or the centre may be taken out carefully with a spoon, so as to leave a cup-like shell of the firm pulp, and a rich stuffing put in its place. A little ham or veal, finely minced and mixed with cracker dust, seasoned and bound together with a well beaten egg, makes a good filling. Or the straight pulp of the tomatoes may be highly seasoned and mixed with grated onion, bread crumbs, melted butter, salt and pepper. Add a lump of butter to each on taking up.

Escalloped Tomato is another savory preparation which may be varied with different seasonings. Arrange in layers, alternating with the peeled and sliced tomato, bread crumbs dotted with butter and well seasoned, or a light sprinkling of sausage or very thin chips of bacon. Put a good layer of crumbs on the top and bake slowly for a full hour, then brown to a rich color.

Mushrooms and macaroni are two very unlike materials, either of which combines perfectly with tomatoes. Macaroni may be used for an alternate layer, as in the escallop given above. An Italian method is to first fry a little minced onion in butter and add to it a pint of tomatoes cut small, with salt and black pepper, simmering gently until quite soft; then press through a strainer. The macaroni is cooked in another saucepan and carefully drained, then tossed with a liberal lump of good butter, until well cooled. Stir in the tomato and serve as soon as thoroughly heated.

With Beans. — A “left-over” of baked beans goes well combined with tomato. They may be used together, either in the form of soup or sufficiently solid for a nice hot supper or side dish. To a pint of cold baked beans add a pint of boiling water and a pint of tomatoes cut small; also a slice or two of onion and two or three stalks of celery. Stew for twenty minutes, or longer if not in haste, and put through a strainer. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and blend with two of flour; add by degrees the beans and serve very hot. Use only water enough to prevent burning, if a solid dish is wanted.

Salads. — The tomato serves perfectly in a salad, either with lettuce or celery; whole, filled or sliced; with a rich mayonnaise, or with the simplest French dressing.

With a can of salmon a very handsome and rich salad is prepared. Take out the salmon in neat, firm bits and lay them in a dish of cold spiced vinegar while the tomatoes are prepared. Cut off the stem end and hollow out with a pointed spoon to make a neat, firm cup. Medium-sized tomatoes of even form and well ripened should be chosen. Mix a little salt, cayenne and vinegar, with or without oil, as preferred, and sprinkle the tomatoes well, then fill with the salmon. Cucumbers in paper-thin slices may be mixed with the fish. Serve on lettuce leaves with a cupful of mayonnaise.

Jellied Or Frozen. — Both cucumbers and tomatoes are frequently served now in the form of jelly, using the pulp pressed through a steamer, with gelatine, as in other gelatine jellies. Cubes of this jelly are especially popular with chicken salad. Frozen tomato is offered in the same way with meat salads or cold luncheons. The pulp is highly seasoned and frozen like a water ice. It is then either chilled again in small cups, to make an individual mold, or served by the spoonful upon the plates.

Tomatoes cannot be stewed under two to three hours to get rid of that raw, watery taste. Take five or six tomatoes or a can of tomatoes, throwing out the water, put in a saucepan with a small piece of onion, a bit of parsley, salt, pepper, teaspoonful of butter, a pinch of sugar; let it simmer from two to three hours uncovered. Serve for dinner or set aside to add to a poor soup, or to re-enforce a gravy, or if your dinner is short, put about half of it in a warm dish, poach six eggs, set them a few moments on a nice, dry, warm napkin to dry, then put them on the tomatoes and serve des ceufs a la portogais. Sliced fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper and powdered with crumbs of toasted bread, fried in hot butter and served hot immediately, are very delicious for breakfast.

Tomato Timbale. — To be served with lettuce and mayonnaise sauce: Take six fresh tomatoes or a can of tomatoes, of which you throw off the liquor, stew them down sufficiently with a spoonful of Cox’s gelatine, put enough to keep the tomatoes together, season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper, pour into small timbales to shape them, place on ice to get cold and serve with lettuce and mayonnaise sauce.


TOMATOES

Tomatoes must be cooked several hours, otherwise they taste sour and watery.

Slice them, salt and pepper them, add a few bread crumbs, broil them on the gridiron, serve very hot for breakfast.

Stuffed with mince meat, or sliced, with French dressing or mayonnaise sauce, they are delicious.

Scald, peel, and slice them. Put in the refrigerator, with French dressing. Put a slice of onion in the dish with them, and remove it before serving.

A Nice Way To Cook Tomatoes For Breakfast. — A nice way to cook tomatoes for breakfast is to slice them, salt and pepper them, sprinkle with bread crumbs, a little butter on them, and broiled. Serve very hot immediately, without letting them stand.


EGG PLANT

Parboil them, cut them in half and scrape out the soft part, which you put in a bowl. Add to it some chopped meat and a little stale bread. Season with salt, pepper, onions, parsley, and a little bit of ham or tongue. Put all in the frying-pan for a few moments, then put back in the egg-plant shells, with sprinkled bread crumbs on top, and brown in the oven.


FRIED CARROTS

Take a few tender young carrots. Slice them (roundwise) very thin, roll them in brown sugar, and fry them brown in butter.


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

Scrape and boil them, not too soft, with salt. They are delicious as a salad with French dressing. They can be used in a brown chicken fricassee, or with roast chicken or duck, or dressed with a white sauce.


GLOBE ARTICHOKES

They should be boiled with the leaves downward in salt water. Serve hot or cold, with sauce vinaigrette or white sauce. Also with the inside leaves taken out and filled up with stuffing of veal and chicken, and a little bit of ham, all well chopped up together. Let them simmer together for half an hour, adding a spoonful or two of soup to make a gravy.


SQUASH

Take a squash or cymling. Parboil it. Cut it in half (roundwise), and with a spoon scrape out the inside part and put that in a bowl. Add to it some stale bread crumbs, a little milk or cream, a spoonful of sugar, salt, pepper and butter. Beat all well together, then put for a few moments into a frying-pan on the fire. Then put all back into the squash shell, sprinkle bread crumbs on top, and put them in the oven to brown a bit. They are most delicious cooked in this way.


CARROTS

Slice five or six carrots roundwise. Put them into a saucepan. Add two or three tablespoonfuls of water, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of very fresfi butter. Cover closely. Let it simmer on a slow fire for two or three hours, and they will come out soft and tender. If you have a dish of carrots every day on your table you will save your doctor’s bill.

Carrots are very nice boiled sliced, and cooked with a white sauce; or, sliced in round, thin slices, put in a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper and a little sugar. Eet them simmer on the side of the stove two or three Hours, add a little chopped parsley. Perfectly delicious.

Take these same carrots, crush them, and pass them through a sieve. Add some bouillon, and let them cook slowly half an hour together. Such a delicious soupe creme.

Boil a few carrots, not too soft. Slice and fry them in butter, after having sprinkled them with brown sugar. Serve hot.


LUCCHETTI — FRIED

ITALIAN VEGETABLE

Cut-in strips, rather flat, like potatoes, for frying crisply a la francaise. Leave them two or three hours, after sprinkling salt on them, to expel the moisture. Lay them a little while on a napkin. Dip them in flour, and fry quickly until brown. Sprinkle powdered sugar on them before serving.

Or they may be served farcis, in pieces cut like fond d’artichauts.


SPINACH

Spinach must be thrown into boiling water, and when sufficiently cooked drained in a colander or cheesecloth, and chopped fine on a very clean board with a perfectly clean knife, then warmed in a saucepan; add salt, butter and sugar to taste, and serve very hot and quickly.

It should be trimmed with small pieces of fried bread around the dish.


STRING BEANS

Make a bouquet of a small green onion, some parsley, a laurel leaf, a very small bit of thyme. Tie all together with a long string, add your string beans, and when the bouquet has boiled fifteen minutes, take it out, leaving the string beans to boil fifteen minutes longer. Let them, like spinach, dance around in plenty of hot water. When cooked, strain them in a colander at once. Do not let them get cold. Let them drip in a clean piece of cheesecloth that has been well washed: never use it new. Then put the beans in a frying-pan with a little butter, pepper and salt. Serve hot. Do not let them stand.


JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES

Artichokes may be boiled in hot water, salted, and served as a vegetable, with a white sauce, or as a salad, with a French dressing, or as a stuffing for fowls, or as a vegetable fried in roast-beef gravy, as they do the Irish potatoes. They are delicious in any form and should be boiled with the leaves down.

They are very nice with chicken fricassee or smothered with chicken, or with inside taken out and filled with the veal and oyster stuffing.

Jerusalem artichokes may be used in various ways and make an exquisite dish when well prepared, being delicious as a puree for a soup with cream. Steamed and allowed to get cold and prepared with French dressing they make a very good salad. In a brown chicken fricassee they improve the flavor very much. They can also be used in a beef a la mode of veal, cutting the veal about four inches square; parboiled and browned in butter and served with a white sauce, this is a great delicacy.

Broad Hollow Farm, Westberry, L. I.


ASPARAGUS IN THE OVEN

Take four bundles of asparagus. Boil them. Cut off the soft tips about an inch long. Add to them a pint of sweet milk. Mix two or three eggs, a teaspoonful of flour (into which a teaspoonful of butter is mixed), salt, pepper, butter, onion juice, parsley. Add all together with a soupcon of grated cheese on top, and put in the oven to bake for fifteen minutes.


ASPARAGUS SOUP

This can be made next day from the same water in which the asparagus was boiled by adding whatever cold meat you have on hand, with salt, pepper and parsley. If you wish to thicken it, small pieces of potatoes, cut up and passed through a sieve, may be added, also a handful of sorrel, a small lettuce, two small green onions, and chervil.


HOW TO COOK MUSHROOMS IN A CHAFING DISH HALF AN HOUR BEFORE SERVING

Take a heaping plateful of nicely peeled mushrooms, put a tablespoonful of fresh butter into a chafing-dish, and pour the mushrooms on top of it. Salt and pepper them, cover them closely and let them cook twenty-five or thirty minutes. Put some nice pieces of dry toast on each plate, and serve yourself from the chafing-dish. Hail Columbia, it’s good!


THE WAY TO TELL GOOD MUSHROOMS FROM POISONOUS ONES

Only gather mushrooms in open fields where cows or sheep have pastured, and those that are pink underneath, and as they grow old and large dark brown underneath. They are all rather fat and stocky. Alongside of them grow cream-colored or white poisonous ones which smell rank. Do not touch them. Confine yourself to the pink and brown only and you are safe. If you have any doubts, throw them away. There are many other species of mushrooms, but if you keep to those described you are safe, and they are the best.




MISCELLANEOUS DISHES

MACARONI PIE

Put the macaroni on to boil in plenty of cold water with an onion. Let it boil gently until the macaroni is quite tender, then throw it on a sieve to drain; but first wash it in cold water. Then put on half a pint of cream to boil with about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a tablespoonful of mustard, a little cayenne pepper, salt and butter. Thin it in some macaroni, and let it stew gently a few minutes. Have some grated cheese mixed with a few bread crumbs. Put the macaroni in a deep dish, sprinkle the crumbs of cheese over the top and bake it.

— Mrs. Phillips (Dr. Arnold’s Receipt).


CORN OYSTERS

Grate one pint of young corn, add one egg, well beaten, one small teacupful of flour, one-half cupful of butter, salt and pepper, mix well. Fry a spoonful at a time, butter them.


EGGS, PORTUGUESE STYLE

Slice some nice fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper, put crumbs of bread on them, fry them well, put them in a hot dish and put on top several poached eggs. The same can be served on a good tomato sauce that has cooked three hours.


EGGS A LA MORELLE

Boil six or eight eggs hard twenty minutes. Make a nice white sauce in a double saucepan with a pint of cream, mix a tablespoonful of butter with flour, add gently and carefully to cream, salt, red pepper, and a little onion juice. When the sauce is made, cut the eggs in half and add the sauce.



HOW TO MAKE TEA

Scald your teapot with boiling water. Put in it a spoonful of tea with a large spoonful of hot water. Let it stand one moment. Add a cupful of boiling water. Let it stand. Add another cupful to suit the taste. By this system you extract the best aroma out of tea. Of course your water must be boiling. Put a little hot water in your cups to warm them.


COLD TEA

Make your tea early in the afternoon, and pour it from one vessel to another, shaking violently until it pains your arm. Then pour it into the pitcher from which you wish to serve it, and let it stand on the ice, or in the refrigerator, until you want it. Crack your ice fine, and put a small quantity in each tumbler. Then pour in the tea, already sweetened, and add slices of lemon to taste.

— Mrs. Phillips, of Washington, D. C.


HOW TO MAKE DRIP COFFEE

Take a French dripper, or French coffee-pot. Wash it in hot water. It must be perfectly pure and clean. Put in it two or three tablespoonfuls of Java and Mocha mixed. Pour over it a quarter of a cupful of tepid water, just to soak the coffee. Let it stand a few moments, then pour on it a cupful of boiling water, and let it drip five minutes more. Then add another cupful of hot water. Test the coffee. If it is too weak, pour the whole thing over the top again. If it is too strong, add more hot water. Rinse your cups in hot water before using them.


WAFFLES

Beat two eggs thoroughly, separately. Add a heaping cupful of flour. Thin it with sweet cold milk to a soft consistency. Add pinch of sugar, pinch of salt, and a little baking powder on the end of a spoon. Beat well with an egg beater. Double the amount if necessary, beating whites and yolks separately.


SODA BISCUITS

One quart of flour, teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix together in a bowl, then add a tablespoonful of very fresh lard, and one cupful of milk. Mix with the hand quickly. Cut in small round pieces, and put in a pan and bake.


ROLLS

Take a quart of flour, a spoonful of lard, a pinch of salt, and water enough to soften the paste. Mix well over night. Put in buttered pans next morning and bake.

WAFFLES

Two tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of hominy, one egg, one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of lard, one half-pint of milk, and a little salt, beat up very lightly.

— Julia Parkman.


MUFFINS

A cupful of hominy with a little salt, a teaspoonful of butter, a cupful of wheat flour, a tablespoonful of sugar, a half-teaspoonful of salt, one egg, a teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix well with sweet milk until a smooth paste. Put a spoonful in a buttered mold.


EGGS A LA MORELLE

Cut six hard boiled eggs in half. Take the yolks of three eggs. Put them in a small saucepan with a pint of cream and a good spoonful of butter. Stir all the time, the pan being in another pan of hot water. Be careful to put the cream in before the butter. Before serving put in a few drops of vinegar or a little lemon juice. Pour this sauce over your hard boiled eggs. It can also be used with vegetables.


BISCUITS MADE OVER NIGHT

One quart of flour, pinch of salt, two tablespoonfuls of lard. Break over it a raw egg. One yeast cake in cupful of cold water. Knead it with the hand for twenty minutes. Let it rise over night. Cut out in round form with large cutter. Butter lightly with melted butter. Turn it over and let it rise for two hours, and bake in quick oven.


LOAF BREAD

Three quarts of flour (for four loaves), one teaspoonful salt, one tablespoonful sugar and one tablespoonful of lard, dissolved in hot water, three-fourths cupful of milk and small yeast cake soaked half hour in tablespoonful of tepid water. Stir all together with knife until knife stands up in the sponge. Let rise over night. Knead out and put in pans not quite half full, that it may rise to the edge in about an hour. Bake in oven of moderate heat about an hour and a half.


THIN WATER BISUITS

One-half pound of flour, two ounces butter well rubbed into the flour, a pinch of salt. Mix into a stiff paste with milk, then roll out very thin. Prick the paste well with the biscuit pricker. Cut in diamonds, and bake them in a quick oven.


THICK WATER BISCUITS

Three pounds of flour, two and a half ounces of butter, pinch of salt, one teaspoonful of baking powder. Mix all well together into a stiff paste with milk. Roll out one-half an inch thick. Prick them well. Cut them with a round cutter and bake as quickly as possible, but not in so hot an oven as the thin biscuits.


SOUFFLE BISCUITS

Rub four ounces of butter into a quart of flour. Make it into paste with milk. Knead it well. Roll it as thin as paper. Bake it to look white.


AUNT ANNE’S CORN-BREAD WITHOUT POWDER

Take a quart of corn meal, one quart of milk (you scald the milk and add it to the corn meal), tablespoonful of fresh butter. Let it stand until it cools off a little; then you add five well beaten eggs. Bake in a quick oven. Mix half quantity with three eggs if you wish a smaller corn-bread.

— Baltimore.

AUNT ANNE’S DELICIOUS CORN-BREAD

One cupful of white corn meal, one cupful of boiled hominy, knead two eggs in the hominy, put in a piece of butter, melted the size of a hickory nut, one pinch of salt, one good pinch of sugar, whip all that together, add corn meal and cold milk alternately to a thick consistency until it drops off the spoon in a thick batter, like a thick mush. Sometimes put in a pinch of yeast powder, just as you are going to put it to bake. Mix it well, bake it and serve. Don’t let it stand.

— Baltimore.

AUNT ANNE’S HOECAKE

Take a large cupful of corn meal, sift it in a bowl, one pinch of salt, mix it with a little boiling water. Let it get cold. Make some small round cakes, pinch them on top. Put in a pan to bake in the oven.


HOMINY BREAD AND WAFFLES

One egg, four tablespoonfuls of hominy, four tablespoonfuls of plain flour (sifted), two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and two cupfuls of sweet milk. Put the butter in the hominy and add the other ingredients, putting in the flour last, with a small pinch of baking powder.


SALLY LUNN

One quart of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of sugar, one heaping tablespoonful of lard and butter mixed with one-third of a yeast cake; three eggs well beaten. Make the dough with warm water in winter and with cold water in summer. It should be the consistency of light bread dough, or rather, softer. Let it rise for four or five hours. Touch lightly, and turn into a buttered cake mold, and bake without a second kneading. It will take nearly forty minutes to bake, and should then soak well.

— Lauderdale, Virginia.


CORN PONE

Corn pone is highly recommended as a breakfast dish. Take a heaping coffeecupful of boiled hominy, heat it, and thin in a tablespoonful of butter, three eggs, and nearly one pint of sweet milk. As much corn meal may be added as will serve to thicken this till it is like the batter for “Johnnycakes.” Bake in a quick oven and serve.

— “Legs,” one of Thomas Jefferson’s Plantations.


POP-OVERS

Two cupfuls of flour, three eggs, two cupfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Beat eggs, without separating, very light. Pour mixture slowly over flour to prevent lumping. Grease cups with butter. Put in oven to get hot. Cook in moderate oven at bottom about three-quarters of an hour.

— Sarah Johnston.


SALLY LUNN

Five eggs, one and a half pints of flour, full spoonful of butter, put in the yolks (whites are not used), and two spoonfuls of sugar, one glass of sour milk, with teaspoonful of baking powder.


CORN BREAD

A handful of hominy, two spoonfuls of butter and lard mixed, three eggs, one cupful of corn meal, and one cupful of milk.


CORN CAKE

With one quart of corn meal, scalded, mix one-half quart of milk and one-half quart of water, small quantities of soda, salt and brown sugar.


CORN MEAL BREAD

Rub a piece of butter the size of an egg into a pint of corn meal. Make it a batter with two eggs and some new milk. Add a spoonful of yeast. Set it by the fire an hour to rise. Butter little pans, fill them, and bake.


SWEET POTATO BUNS

Boil and mash a sweet potato. Rub into it as much flour as will make it like bread. Add spice and sugar to your taste, with a spoonful of yeast. When it has risen well work in a piece of butter. Bake it in small rolls, to be eaten hot with butter.


COUCHE COUCHE

Make a paste as you make for corn bread by the above receipt. Sweeten it with sugar. Instead of putting it in a pan, you grease a pot with lard, and as the paste cooks to the side of the pot, you scrape it off with a spoon. Do that five or six times, until all your paste is cooked. It is delicious for breakfast with coffee. The Southern children are very fond of it with milk.


GRAHAM WHEATLETS

One pint of Graham flour, nearly one quart of boiling water or milk, and one teaspoonful of salt. Scald the flour, when you have salted it, into as soft dough as you can handle. Roll it nearly an inch thick, cut in round cakes, lay upon a buttered tin or pan, and bake them in the hottest oven you can get ready. The lightness of the wheatlets depends upon the degree of heat. Some cooks spread them on a hot tin, and set this upon a red-hot stove. Properly scalded and cooked they are light as puffs, and very good, otherwise they are flat and tough. Split and butter while hot.


PANCAKES

Ingredients: eggs, flour, milk and salt. Beat the eggs well in a basin. To every egg add one dessertspoonful of flour, one teacupful of milk and salt to taste. Mix these to a fine batter, then let stand for four hours in a cool place. Have frying-pan very hot. Put in a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Put in half a teacupful of the batter, and fry to a light, nice brown. Roll and serve while hot with sugar and lemon.

— “Aunt Sue,” S. C.


PANCAKES

Three eggs, a half pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of flour. Mix eggs and flour; add milk, salt and nutmeg. Fry a tablespoonful at a time in hot lard.




DESSERTS

CREAM A LA CELESTINE

Six yolks of eggs, one white of egg, one pound Menier chocolate, two cupfuls of sugar, one quart of cream, one pint of milk. Flavor with vanilla. Beat the yolks of eggs, add the white of one, and sugar, and beat all firm. Then add the cream, stirring slowly until well mixed. Let the milk come to a boil and add the chocolate. When well mixed, add it to the eggs, sugar, etc. Stir gently, strain. Allow it to cool and then freeze.


MANCHESTER ICE-CREAM

Four eggs, whites and yolks, one pint of cream, one-half pint of milk, two cupfuls of sugar. Mix the sugar, cream and milk together, and stir in the well-beaten eggs. Put all in the freezer and turn for twenty minutes without stopping. Then put in a mold, and pack in ice until wanted.


FLOATING ISLAND

One quart of milk. Sugar to taste. Flavor with vanilla. Yolks of seven eggs, well beaten, and two whites, all beaten together; add to milk. Stir gently over a slow fire. Beat well the whites of five eggs; add very little powdered sugar. Take the beaten eggs by spoonfuls and put on top of your boiling milk (before you make your cream). Turn over every spoonful of egg on the milk for two or three minutes. Put them on a sieve to drip on a very clean cloth in the ice box.


HARD CUSTARD

One quart of milk. Sugar to taste. A piece of vanilla bean. Let your milk come to a boil; take it off the fire for three or four minutes. Add five well-beaten eggs. Add them gradually to the milk. Pour it in a mold in which you have put caramel, and place that in a bain-Marie (double saucepan) in the oven for twenty minutes. Let it get cold in the ice box, and turn out when wanted.

— Leonie Penin.


SOFT CUSTARD

Same proportions. Seven yolks of eggs and two whites. Add to warm milk, and put it on a slow fire, stirring it all the time for five or ten minutes. Do not burn it.

— Leonie Penin.


SWEDISH CREAM

Take six eggs, beat the whites and yolks thoroughly. Add one and a half spoonfuls of sugar. Boil a quart of milk and cream. Let it get cold, and flavor with vanilla bean. Add two spoonfuls of burned sugar. Strain. Put in a mold. Then put that mold in a double saucepan (with water) in the oven. When solid turn it over in a dish of light brandy around it.

“EDGE HILL” COOKED APPLES

Take six or eight good-sized fresh apples. Peel and core them, taking out the heart. Fill each up with brown sugar. Put them in a pan or dish. Sprinkle brown sugar freely over them and put slices of lemon around the dish, with small pieces of cinnamon. Add a spoonful or two of water. Put in the oven, and bake a golden color. It jellies beautifully. Serve with fresh cream.

— Sarah Randolph.


CARAMEL PUDDING

Five eggs, the four yolks and one whole one, one gill of cream, one half-pint of milk, one ounce of sifted sugar, one quarter of a pound of lump sugar, just moistened with cold water, then boiled to a light golden color, poured into a mold. When the caramel is set, then pour in custard, tie down with foolscap paper and steam very gently for an hour and a half. When cooked it should be buried in ice until required for use. The eggs, cream, sugar and milk should all be well beaten together.

— Leonie Penin.


PLUM PUDDING

One and a half pounds of raisins (stoned), one and a half pounds of currants, one and a half pounds of suet, one and a half pounds of sugar, three-quarters of a pound of flour, three-quarters of a pound of bread crumbs (soaked in onehalf pint of milk), ten eggs, one apple (chopped), a quarter of a pound of candied peel, one ounce of bitter almonds, one ounce of sweet almonds. Boil gently for ten hours, and serve with brandy sauce.

— E. S. Willis.


PORCUPINE PUDDING

Take six good apples. Peel and core them. Make a little syrup with sugar and water. Let your apples cook in that syrup, roasting them. When the apples are soft, take them out, put them in a flat dish. Let your syrup thicken a bit, pour it over the apples, and let them get cool. Beat the whites of two or three eggs stiff. Put it over the apples, shaping it in the form of a pudding. Stick in it all over bleached almonds. Let it brown in the oven.

— Miss Banks, S. C.


MERINGUE PUDDING

One pint of stale bread crumbs, one quart of milk, nearly one teacupful of sugar, three eggs, leaving out the white of one for the meringue. Season the pudding with the grated rind of one lemon. Mix all together and bake until you can put the handle of a teaspoon in and it comes out clean. Then cover the pudding with some preserves. Make your meringue of the one white of egg and teacupful of sugar. Spread in on top of the preserves, and put in the stove until it is lightly browned. You may double the receipt if more is wanted.


MONKEY PUDDING

Take about half a loaf of stale bread. Let it soak in nice milk (as much as you would put for a bread pudding) several hours. Add a little cream to it. Put in three heaping spoonfuls of brown sugar, two heaping spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, a few stoned raisins. Cook in the oven with a slow fire until it looks like an old monkey. Serve with a stiff sugar and butter sauce, flavored with a little wine.

— Celestine Eustis.

PLAIN RICE PUDDING

One and a half quarts of milk, one-half cupful of rice, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar; dessertspoonful of butter. Wash your rice well. Put as much milk as the dish you wish to bake your pudding in will hold, together with the rice. Allow it to boil, and as the milk cooks away, keep adding more until all is used; then add sugar and butter, and bake until brown. When your pudding is baking and the crust forms, skim it off each time for five or six times before allowing it to finally form and remain. This is important.


CORN PUDDING

Take six ears of corn. Boil and grate them; add a spoonful of sugar, pinch of salt, a spoonful of cream, four yolks of eggs and the four whites, well whipped up. Mix well. Put in a buttered dish, and bake for half an hour in rather warm oven, as you would for a souffle.


CORN PUDDING

Cut six ears of soft corn from the cob, making several cuts in each grain, and scrape the milk from the cob. To this add one egg, well beaten, one tablespoonful of sugar, one of butter and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix all well together and bake for half an hour.

— “Lauderdale,” Virginia.


CUSTARD BREAD

Take three pie plates. In the first one put some sweet milk with a spoonful of powdered cinnamon; in the second one beat up four eggs, whites and yolks; in the third one put some brown sugar. Cut some slices of stale bread, dip them first in the milk, then in the eggs, and roll them in the brown sugar and fry them in some butter until brown. Put those that are cooked in a hot plate. You can only cook three at a time in a saucepan. Keep them hot. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar and serve with a wine sauce for dessert.

— “Uncle John,” S. C.


MINCE-MEAT

One pound of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of sugar, one pound of suet, all chopped; two pounds of apples, raw, and chopped; two ounces of candied orange and lemon peel; the juice of one lemon; one pint of brandy or rum.

— E. S. Willis.


CANDIED ORANGE

Peel and quarter the oranges. Make a syrup in the proportion of one pound of sugar to one pint of water. Then take it from the fire and dip the quarters of orange in the syrup. Let them drain on a fine sieve placed over a platter, so that the syrup will not be wasted. Let them drain until cool, when the sugar will crystallize.


HOW TO MAKE A CARAMEL

Four tablespoonfuls of any kind of sugar, one tablespoonful of cold water. Let it cook until it candies, more or less according to color. If you wish it to color a pudding, put it in the mold first, and then pour in your pud ding. Another way is to add it drop by drop to a cream or custard. Or, if you like better, pour it over your pudding or cake.


FRUIT IN ITS OWN JUICE

Prepare your fruit for eating by removing the stones and paring if necessary; put it in a closed vessel and expose it to a scalding heat, either in a dry oven or one filled with water, taking care not to let it burn. Fill up jars and seal them carefully. Keep them in a cool place. Stone jars are the best. The fruit spoils if exposed to the air.


PRALINE COCOANUT

Take a fresh cocoanut, break it open and grate it carefully. Take a cupful to two cupfuls and a half of the best white sugar. Put the sugar in a nice clean saucepan to cook until it candies. Add the cocoanut. Let it cook a moment, turning it all the time. Put it in pats on a large china dish or a piece of marble. Do the same with brown sugar.


PRALINE PECANS

Take a cupful of well and carefully peeled pecan nuts. Take two cupfuls of brown sugar and half a cupful of water. Let simmer on the fire until it candies. Put in the nuts. Stir them all the time until the sugar adheres to the nuts. Be careful it does not burn. Put in a plate to cool and serve. Do the same thing, but do not turn it. Put them a spoonful at a time in small paper boxes or in pats on a dish. The same thing can be done with peanuts. Peanuts powdered and added to ice cream is delicious.

(Sold on the street corners in New Orleans.)




CAKES


GINGERBREAD

One quart of flour, one-half pound of butter, onequarter pound of sugar, five eggs, one-half pint of molasses, one-half cupful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda.


LOAF OF GINGERBREAD

A loaf of gingerbread is good enough to make one quite indifferent to the fact that it is by no means an economy. To make one: work a cupful of butter until creamy, then mix with it a cupful of brown sugar. Separate the whites and yolks of four eggs, and beat both until light, frothing the whites. Stir the eggs with the butter and sugar and add a cupful of sour cream mixed with a cupful of molasses. Before putting the molasses and cream together, add to the cream two teaspoonfuls of soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Measure four cupfuls of flour and mix with it a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of yellow ginger. Add this to the batter. Do all the mixing as quickly and lightly as possible. Bake thirty minutes with moderate heat.


MOLASSES GINGERBREAD

The molasses must be the unrefined black New Orleans molasses and the sugar must be the coarse, dark, unrefined brown sugar. One cupful of butter (melted), one cupful of molasses, one cupful of brown sugar, two eggs well beaten, two cupfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful cinnamon, one-half teaspoonful baking soda. Beat this mixture well and drop it in spoonfuls on a baking sheet or roasting pan. Spread it with a wooden spoon very thin and evenly over the pan and bake ten or twelve minutes in a moderate oven. Let it cool a little after it is drawn from the oven, and then cut it up into any desired shapes.

— Mrs. Bridgham.


DROP PUFFS

Delicious for dessert. Served with powdered sugar or wine sauce. Four ounces of flour, two eggs, dessertspoonful of white sugar, pinch of salt, sherry glass of brandy, a good tumbler of sweet milk, a teaspoonful of orange flower water. Beat it all up thoroughly. Drop a spoonful in plenty of very hot lard. Turn them over until they are a golden color. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar over them and serve very hot.


GINGER CAKE

One teacupful of molasses, one teacupful of brown sugar, one teacupful of butter, three teacupfuls of flour (sifted), three eggs, one tablespoonful of powdered ginger, one teaspoonful of soda. Rub sugar and butter well together. Beat eggs well and add. Then stir in molasses, ginger, flour, and last, the soda, dissolved in a little milk or water. Bake quickly.

— Alison.


STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

Two cupfuls of flour (sifted), two eggs, one cupful of sugar, a good half cupful of sour milk or cream; the latter is best. Mix half a teaspoonful of baking soda in the cream. Use a steel fork. Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar first, then eggs, one at a time, and milk, and flour alternately. Cook in buttered pie plates in the oven like corn bread. Put confection between.



LEONIE PENIN’S DRY CAKE

One cupful sugar, one cupful flour, dried in the oven and sifted, one cupful butter, three eggs. Beat all together in a bowl very thoroughly. Butter two pie plates, and put a little flour in the plates, then put in your cake and bake in the oven.

The same receipt can be used for chocolate cake, putting all the dough in one pie plate, and when once it is cooked and cooled off, you slice in half and butter with apricot jam, and put the slices together again with a nice chocolate icing on top.


DELICATE CAKE

One teacupful of melted butter, two teacupfuls of pulverized sugar. Stir butter and sugar to a cream; add one teacupful of sweet milk, one tablespoonful of vanilla, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Lastly add three teacupfuls of sifted flour (measured before sifting) and two even teaspoonfuls of baking powder, thoroughly mixed with the flour. This makes two cakes. Do not move the pans while baking until the cake is nearly done, unless it should bake too much on one side, when it must be carefully done to avoid its falling. The eight yolks make a nice cake by adding two whole eggs and beating all together. Then take the same ingredients as above, and when poured in the pan stick full of nicely shred citron.


COMMON CAKE

One cupful of butter, two of sugar, three of flour, four eggs, a little milk, soda and nutmeg. Beat the sugar and butter together. Beat the eggs separately, and mix with sugar and butter and add the flour.


SMALL SPONGE CAKE

Five eggs, one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of flour.


INDIAN SPONGE CAKE

One cupful of Indian meal, one-half cupful of flour, two cupfuls of milk, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one teaspoonful of saleratus.


GINGERBREAD

One cupful of butter, one cupful of brown sugar, four eggs, one cupful of sour cream, one cupful of molasses, one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in warm water, four cupfuls of flour, teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of yellow ginger.


FLAT COOKIES

One quart of flour, one pint of sweet milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of baking powder, one-half cupful of sugar. Rub butter thoroughly with hands; add sugar, milk and flour. Mix well with fork. Roll, cut out with tumbler on flat board. Handle very lightly. Bake twenty minutes.


LEONIE’S CAKE

One cupful sugar, one cupful flour dried in the oven and sifted, one cupful nice fresh milk, three eggs, whites and yolks. Put everything together in a bowl and beat it thoroughly. Put it in one or two well-buttered pie plates, according to the thickness you wish to make your cakes. Sprinkle a little flour over your buttered pie plates before putting in your cake. Bake in the oven. If you wish to make a chocolate cake, make your cake (by the above re ceipt) an inch and a half thick, slice it in half, butter it with apricot paste or jam, then put on top a nice layer of chocolate cream, as follows: Take three tablets of Maillard’s best chocolate. Boil a cupful of milk and let the chocolate dissolve in it, stirring it over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour. Then spread on top of your cake while hot.


SWEET WAFERS

Six eggs, one pint of flour, two ounces of melted butter, one and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar, one cupful of milk, one teaspoonful of nutmeg. Beat whites and yolks separately and very stiff. Rub the sugar and butter together, and work in first the yolks, then the milk, then the flour and whites. Bake in well-buttered wafer or waffle irons very quickly, browning as little as possible. Roll them while hot upon a smooth, round stick not larger than your little finger, slipping it out carefully when the wafer takes the right shape.


MOLASSES CAKE

A cupful of sugar and a cupful of butter stirred to a cream, then a cupful of molasses and a cupful of milk with a teaspoonful of baking powder, five eggs beaten very light; then stir in the other ingredients alternately with a cupful of flour. Stir the batter well and bake it quickly.


SWEET WAFERS

One pint of flour, one teacupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, three eggs, separated and well beaten, onehalf cupful of milk. Mix the batter the same as for cake and bake in wafer-irons.


CHOCOLATE ICING

Take three tablets, or one-quarter of a pound of Menier’s best chocolate, one cupful of milk, which you boil. Put in the chocolate to dissolve, stirring it gently for a quarter of an hour. Let it cool off and then apply to the cake.





ART AND SCIENCE OF SALAD MAKING

No careless hand can make a perfect salad. To be sure, Nanette, the cook, who tosses in this, adds a sprinkling of that and pours in oil and vinegar with seeming abandon, sends to the table preparations fit for the gods, But Nanette, in her line, is an artist who has acquired the simple stroke that produces the masterpiece. Occasionally there arises a genius in lay ranks who snaps her finger at experience and arrives at Nanette’s degree of skill by inspiration. But geniuses are few.

In no other dish is there so wide range for individuality of treatment as in the salad. No single process in its preparation is unimportant. The meats and vegetables must not be too coarse nor too fine. In making them ready the chopping knife and meat grinder must have no part. Only the crispest, freshest vegetables should enter into its composition. Much depends upon the quality of the vinegar and oil. Sharp vinegar is to be avoided. If that on hand is too sour weaken it with a little water. A little lemon juice may be used if greater acidity is wanted. A ready supply of herb vinegars, such as tarragon, nasturtium, chervil, celery and mint, add greatly to the possibilities in flavoring. The wise salad maker has at her finger tips a knowledge of the adaptability of the different vinegars, flavors and foundation materials. The tarragon flavor, for instance, is delicious with meats and fish. The nasturtium, most persons think, lends itself best to vegetables. Mint vinegar has its votaries, but many people object to its flavor, excepting with lamb, chicken and certain green salads. Celery vinegar combines well with nearly all salads.

Chopped parsley, chervil, sheep sorrel, nasturtiums (leaves, flowers and stems), and other herbs chopped fine and sprinkled over the salad or incorporated with the dressing, ring delightful changes. At a certain farmhouse this summer tender wintergreen leaves from the woods, used moderately in various salads, puzzled the .guests with their delicate fragrance.

Garlic, at which too many persons shudder, because of malodorous memories, lacks the respect in this country that its character merits. Used properly, garlic is more delicate and delicious in flavor than onion. It is the misuse of the vegetable that has gained for it its undeserved notoriety. The French know to a T its worth. A single clove of garlic, or two at the most, are enough for a large mixture. It is a good idea to rub the bowl in which the salad is dressed or the dish in which the dressing is made with a halved clove of garlic. It is still better, some think, to saturate a piece of bread with its odor and in turn to use the bread, transfixed with a fork, to wipe the dish. Another way of obtaining the flavor is to chop a clove or two of garlic to infinitesimal fineness and mix it with the other ingredients.

If onion is used, it is always preferable to employ the juice and not the pulp. By some cooks the onion is grated, but even this method leaves tangible evidences of the most odorous of vegetables to catch in the teeth and retain the flavor in the mouth. To some persons, onions are hurtful, but they are seldom injured by the juice. To obtain the juice, cut the onion in two, hold it on a fork over the mixture, and, with the back of a silver knife or spoon, press the cut side until the juice drops.

With such materials as lobsters, crabs, shrimps, Jerusalem artichokes, etc., which are liked for their individual flavors, it is a mistake to use flavored vinegars, onions or garlic. Such pungent additions are for accompaniments of neutral hue, which need embellishment. With all salad preparations, except with the sweet kind, of course, capers and chopped olives and pickles in right proportion may always be used.

To blend the various flavors so that no one will be overshadowed by another is the acme of the salad maker’s effort. Cold cooked vegetables, such as potatoes, beets, carrots, string beans, celery knobs, etc., will not absorb the dressing and its flavors. To obtain the best results most cooked vegetables should be covered with a French dressing while they are hot and should be left to cool in it. When they are cold they should be thoroughly drained. Then they may be dressed with mayonnaise, French or boiled dressing, as preferred. German cooks marinate hot cabbage in this way for a cabbage salad. With the marinate may be placed an onion or two, sliced; some celery, parsley, chervil or other herb. The French dressing may be made with any preferred vinegar.

Utensils, ingredients and everything pertaining to the work should be chilled at the start. The lettuce, cress or other green, as well as any raw vegetable, such as celery or radishes, should stand in ice-water for an hour before they are wanted. Great care should be taken, however, when they come from the bath to dry them thoroughly. Drops of water will carry with them to the bottom of the dish an oily liquid that will detract greatly from the dainty appearance of the salad. In order to dry the vegetables drain and shake them in a colander, and then toss them about in a large, dry towel.

Stirring the ingredients together is the unpardonable sin of the art. By that means are produced the strange concoctions which are miscalled “salads.” A light tossing with a fork in each hand will properly distribute the elements and seasonings and leave a light, crisp mixture.

Salads are practically of two classes — light and heavy — the former suited to dinners, and both to luncheons and suppers. No one would think, of course, of introducing lobster or chicken salad among the courses of a heavy dinner. Such a dish is calculated to appear as the piece de resistance of a meal.

The appearance of the salad is not the least important factor in its preparation. Vegetables that clash in color, like beets, carrots and tomatoes, should never be mingled. The hue of the mayonnaise, or cooked dressing, may be varied by different devices. For green, spinach juice can be used, or a mixture of herbs, such as lettuce, cress, chives, chervil and parsley, may be crushed together until their juices are expressed. The addition of this liquid to mayonnaise converts it into Ravigote sauce. The powdered coral of the lobster, softened with lemon juice, produces an attractive red. For other shades of red, tomato puree or beet juice may be employed. Yolk of egg will serve for yellow.

Vegetable and fruit cups afford no end of variations. Celery knobs boiled until they are tender, cut in two and scooped into cups are delicious filled with a macedoine of vegetables. A slice is usually taken from the bottom of each to enable it to stand. The vegetables are first marinated, then drained, filled into the cups and topped off with a spoonful of mayonnaise. The white cups arranged on a bed of green cress or lettuce produce a charming effect. For meat, fish or other mixtures the work of the server will be greatly enhanced if the lettuce is first arranged in little nests in the dish and they are filled with the preparation. These nests may be easily lifted with the fork and spoon from the dish to the individual plate. To arrange them put the stem ends of three or four tender, curled leaves together, lapping them over each other enough to make a substantial receptacle. Hollowed out cucumbers, beets, tomatoes, green and red peppers and apples may all do duty as cups.

A solid, prettily shaped cabbage with the centre cut out makes an ornamental bowl for cabbage salad. The cabbage should stand on a bed of curly parsley or other green. Ribbons of red peppers may edge the platter. The salad should be heaped in the cabbage. It may be garnished simply with stuffed olives and tiny gherkins.

Sweet peppers are too little known, although they are gaining in popularity with Americans. With many vegetables they are very delicious. The seeds and white inner pulp should be thoroughly removed (these are the parts that bite). Then cut the peppers into small strips or dice. The peppers may be used in salads of cabbage, mixed vegetables of potatoes, beets, beans, etc.; tomatoes and various other mixtures.

Salad dressings are practically three — mayonnaise, French and cooked dressing. Whipped cream is an improvement in most cases to the mayonnaise and boiled kinds. It should be added just before the dressing is used.

In the summer the bowl in which mayonnaise is made should stand in ice while the process is going on. The old time-devouring way by dropping the oil with one hand and stirring with the other has happily been obviated by various oil dropping inventions which have reduced the work to a minimum. The housekeeper is often puzzled to know what to do if the quantity of mayonnaise needed is too much for one raw yolk and not sufficient for two. By mashing a hard cooked yolk with the raw yolk the problem will be settled. The process of making is the same as if both yolks had been uncooked. They are first seasoned with salt and white pepper and mustard if it is wanted. Then the oil is dropped slowly while the beating continues rapidly.

As the eggs begin to thicken drops of vinegar or lemon juice are added from time to time.

For French dressing four spoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar instead of the usual three to one formula is liked best by most persons.

In the making of French dressing the old saying, “A spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar and a madman to stir,” is an infallible guide. If this dressing is made at the table the oil, vinegar, seasonings and salad should be placed before the one upon whom that office falls. After the dressing is made a layer of the salad should be removed from the plate and placed on a cold salad plate ready at hand. Dressing should be sprinkled over this and thoroughly incorporated with it. Then another layer should be added, and so on until all the salad is dressed.

Cooked dressing may be made and kept for such emergencies as the cook’s day out, unexpected company, etc. To make such a dressing put the yolks of four eggs into the upper part of a double boiler and beat them thoroughly. Add four tablespoonfuls of oil, stirring constantly. Then incorporate four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Set the dish into hot water over the fire and cook. When the mixr ture begins to thicken remove it at once from the fire and beat until it is cold. Then add slowly four more tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and one or two tablespoonfuls of French mustard. Just before using it add one cupful of whipped cream.

Tomato and aspic jelly both make delightful accompaniment for salads. The jelly may be molded in a ring and the salad served in the centre; it may be molded in a solid form and the salad arranged around it, or it may be broken into sparkling cubes and heaped about the salad.

To make aspic jelly soak two ounces of jelly in a cupful of cold water for fifteen minutes. Then add it to one quart of clear meat stock or one quart of water tinctured with beef extract. Flavor with white vinegar and lemon juice until it is properly tart. Put in a couple of blades of mace, some cloves and a bay leaf and stir over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved. To the beaten whites of two eggs add a little cold water and the juice of a lemon. Stir them into the jelly and stir and boil for a minute or two. An egg beater is convenient to use in beating the eggs into the jelly. Draw the saucepan to a cool part of the stove and let it stand five or ten minutes. Then strain the jelly through a jelly bag. To color the jelly, the devices mentioned for mayonnaise may be employed.

Tomato jelly requires a can of tomatoes, an ounce of gelatine and seasonings. Soak the gelatine in one-half cupful of cold water for half an hour. Meanwhile cook the tomatoes with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar and a dash of paprika. Then add the gelatine to the tomatoes and stir until it is dissolved. Strain the jelly through a jelly bag and mold.

The tomato jelly may be served on a bed of lettuce with a mayonnaise, as has already been suggested.

Apple cups may be filled with a salad of mushrooms (cooked), stuffed olives (sliced), nuts and a few delicate tips of celery. Moisten the mixture with French dressing and top off with mayonnaise and whipped cream. This salad may be served with lettuce instead of in apples.

Shredded red pepper, stoned olives and cabbage make a delicious combination.

SALAD SAUCE

Rub with a fork the yolks of two eggs, boiled hard, and cold, with fresh mustard and a little sauce; four tablespoonfuls of oil to one and a half of vinegar, mixing into a cream. Chop fine chervil, tarragon, and use with lettuce. The sauce should be kept separate until needed.





HINTS FOR HOUSEKEEPERS

Keep the cover on for all dry vegetables, and off for all green vegetables.Cook all green vegetables quickly over good fire. Do not let them stand, but serve at once, or they will lose their color and taste watery.Let the spinach and string beans frolic in plenty of boiling water. Waters in which vegetables have been boiled can be used in cooking, except potato water and cucumber water. They have been known to poison a dog.

Good soups can be made with rice water by adding wellcooked tomatoes, an onion, parsley, salt and pepper. The same is true of string bean water, and a delicious soup can be made of spinach water by adding spinach, onion, parsley and a mashed potato.

An excellent soup can be made by boiling a can of corn in one quart of milk and water, equal proportions. Season with salt, pepper and butter. After it has boiled ten minutes, stir in three well-beaten eggs. Serve hot with a little toasted cracker added just before sending to table.

Cooking is like gardening — always something to learn. The proper quantity of salt for rice is a teaspoonful to every large cupful of rice.

You can get much nutrition from cracked bones, but be careful to strain them, and get all the small bones out of your juice, which can then be added to gravies.

Always hang your fowls by the legs, it makes them more tender.

Green vegetables must be cooked in boiling water (by “green” vegetables are meant all those growing above ground), throwing the vegetables in it, salted, and not covered. Dry vegetables, or those under ground, are cooked in cold water, and not salted at first, but when half cooked. If you salt your vegetables too soon they become hard, and are difficult to cook.

The flesh of fowls should be wiped with a dry or moist cloth, as need be, and never washed under a spigot, as that destroys the individual taste of the fowl.

Wash your green vegetables quickly in plenty of water. Do not let them soak.

The great secret of a good cuisine is to leave to every dish its own particular taste, and not to put indiscreetly mace, cloves and aromatic herbs in everything, or they will all taste alike.

Salting draws out the nutritive part of fish, as it does of meats, and salt fish should be used as a relish only. The juices of fish, especially shellfish, are of an alkaline nature, and this renders lemon juice or vinegar desirable as a neutralizing agency.

Only use the best of sweet oil, and the sweetest, freshest butter and lard, and the very best of everything. If you have any doubts about any article of food throw it away, and do not risk making any one ill! That is poor economy!

Do not throw away the bones of turkey or chicken. Crack them and let them boil for two or three hours in a little water. Put in also any nice bits of fowl that are left, particularly the wings. To this add any soup stock you have, and with a little barley or rice or sago you have a nourishing soup. Season with salt, pepper and any aromatic herbs — any vegetable you have on hand.

With a remnant of cold chicken, cut it up with celery and cold potatoes, season with French dressing, ornament with lettuce leaves.

Botanically, potatoes belong to the same poisonous order as tomatoes and contain an acid juice which is unpleasant to the taste and renders them indigestible. This lies in and near the skin of the potato. It is drawn out by heat. When potatoes are baked, it escapes in the steam, if they are opened at once, and when they are boiled it is absorbed in the water. It is best to peel the potatoes before using them, and to let them soak in cold water, covered by the water. New potatoes are watery, as the starch is not fully developed. They have a very thin skin, which may be rubbed off or brushed off.

Put in a flat dish what remains of hominy from breakfast, smooth it flat with the back of a spoon an inch thick; cut it up in diamond shape when cold two or three inches square. Salt and fry in hot lard. Do not let it stand. Serve hot.

To any rice left over add sweet milk to soften it. Let it stand. Add enough flour to keep it together. Salt. Let it stand half an hour. Roll a spoonful of it in your hands, flatten it down and fry in hot lard. Some persons add eggs.

OKRA HIBISCUS

De Brazza, the great explorer, told me that in his expeditions into Africa whenever they stopped for a few months the first thing they planted was Okra Hibiscus, because they considered that vegetable to be so wholesome and nutritious.

BREAD

Eat your bread stale and not fresh. Have it sliced, dried in the oven and then toasted.

GUMBO FILÉ

Gumbo Filê is a powder prepared by the Indians. When the leaves of the sassafras trees are very tender and green, they gather them, dry them, pound them and put them in bags. This powder may be found at Park & Tilford’s, N. Y., or at Solari’s Grocery Store, Chartres St., New Orleans.


GOFIO

Gofio is some corn meal dried in the oven and salted. It is an Indian preparation. They put it in a bag and eat it on their tramps, or when they go out hunting.


HOW TO DESTROY FLIES

To one pint of milk add a quarter of a pound of raw sugar and two ounces of ground pepper. Simmer them together for eight or ten minutes and place it about in shallow dishes. The flies attack it greedily and in a few moments are suffocated. By this method kitchens may be kept clear of flies all summer without the danger of poison.


FOODS THAT STEAL FLAVORS

It is generally understood that butter and milk can be tainted by proximity to decided flavors or odors, but not that all foods absorb and give out more or less of their individual aroma.

Vegetables of the plainest varieties are the worst offenders, not only onion and leek and the more pronounced ones, but the tame little beet and the saucy radish.

The subtle ways of these demure ones is something that households should guard against, but do not.

“We do get so tired of boarding,” exclaims a woman who has gone back and forth from hotels to private boarding houses, but she does not realize the underlying reason.

The real reason is that the foods are all kept in the same place and all cooked in the same atmosphere, double occasion for the flavor exchange that takes place.

Fruits of the handsomest varieties are prone to make this exchange, and cheeses, wines and even nuts will do the same thing.

You leave celery in the ice chest with cream cheese, and if you have a discriminating taste you won’t know which is which by nightfall.

Cream is so sensitive to influences that shut up in the cold box with a peach it will taste like peach ice cream before two hours.

It is difficult to keep these items apart always, but care can be exercised by placing the more delicate articles in covered jars and the vegetables in paper wrappers or even paraffin. Keep the ones most likely to exchange confidences in upper and lower partitions of the ice box, remembering that flavor crossing is an epicurean annoyance.


MRS. PHILLIPS’ CELEBRATED PICKLE PEACHES

Take a peck of half ripe peaches, put them into a strong pickle of salt and water that will bear an egg. Let them remain in it three days, then take them out. Drain them. Put them into a stone jar and stew them over one ounce mace, one ounce cloves, one ounce grated nutmeg, a handful of sliced green ginger and garlic, two bottles of mustard and cover with best vinegar, cold. They will not be fit for use for three months.


HOW TO MAKE A LUNCH WITH NOTHING, AND A GOOD SOUP WITH WHAT REMAINS FROM BREAKFAST

Some years ago we were at the Beverly House in Massachusetts. We were invited to lunch with friends at Hamilton, twelve miles off. When we arrived our host met us at the door in his shirt-sleeves, very red in the face with excitement. He threw up his arms in despair and exclaimed: “Didn’t you get my despatch telling you not to come? My wife is ill in bed; the cook left us yesterday, and there isn’t a thing to eat in the house!” Having Yankee blood and French blood in my veins, I was not to be downed by such trifling obstacles, but accepted the situation at once and answered: “If you will allow me to go into your kitchen and get some one to help me I will see what can be done.” The answer was, “We’ll all help you, for we are very hungry and it is past two o’clock.” I looked into the larder, and there I found a desperate looking bone, the remnant of a leg of mutton, with two cold potatoes. I cut into small pieces what I could find of meat; I did the same with the potatoes, and put them to simmer with a little cold water, salt and pepper. I sent the boys to the garden to see what they could find. They soon came back with fresh tomatoes, lettuce, parsley and onions. I added a little parsley and onion to my Irish stew; then I boiled six eggs for twenty minutes; made a nice white sauce with cream, butter and a little flour, flavoring it with a piece of onion, parsley, cayenne pepper; cut the eggs in half, put them in the cream sauce in a double saucepan until ready to serve, des ceufs a la Morelle. A fisherwoman in Deauville, France, taught me how to make this dish. Then I sliced some tomatoes, salted and peppered and powdered them with crumbs of toasted bread, fried them in hot butter, put them in a hot dish, poached six eggs and put them on the fried tomatoes, made some dip toast, a nice French dressing for the lettuce and some good hot coffee, and in an hour and a half we all sat down to lunch in jolly spirits. The lady of the house paid me the compliment to say it was the best tasting breakfast ever had in her house.

The English butler recognized me later in life as the lady who always cooked her own lunch when she went out.

A lady once said to my dear mother: “I wish you would lend me your cookery book, I want to ask you to dinner and treat you to something good.” The answer was, “You had better dine with me, as I know my book by heart.”


HOW TO MAKE A GOOD SOUP WITH WHAT REMAINS FROM BREAKFAST

Take the remnants of a beefsteak, cut away all fat, cut the meat in small pieces, put them in a saucepan, cover your meat with cold water, put the lid half way on, let it simmer and draw half an hour, add to it two or three spoonfuls of cooked tomatoes; cut a cooked potato, a carrot sliced in two, half an onion, a small piece of cabbage, parsley, salt and pepper. Let it simmer two hours. If you find it short add a little cold water with your vegetables and you will have a delicious soup.

— “Mon Repos”


If this modest work can be of use to young housekeepers, I shall feel rewarded for the pains I have taken in putting it together.


PUNCH

Put in the rind of three lemons, pour one wineglassful of Jamaica rum, two wineglassfuls of brandy, three tablespoonfuls of loaf sugar, a tumblerful and a half of water ice. Pour on one bottle of champagne.

— Mrs. Eugenia Phillips.


CLARET PUNCH

Slice three lemons, pour over one wineglassful of Jamaica rum, one glassful of strong green tea, sugar to taste, one bottle of claret. Put in two or three cupfuls of wellpounded ice.

Celestine Eustis.


BUCKNER PUNCH

For each quart bottle of champagne mix and add one wineglassful of good brandy, one wineglassful of good rum, one wineglassful of good arrack, one wineglassful of good kirsh, one wineglassful of good anisette, one wineglassful of good Maraschino, one wineglassful of good Curacpa, two slices of ripe pineapple, two slices of sweet orange, one toddy glassful of pulverized sugar. At first put in a small quantity of ice, and later fill the bowl with large lumps of ice. It should stand three hours before using.

N.B. — The foregoing concoction would, I think, be the death or destruction of any one who sipped it. I should advise two quarts of water to each quart of punch!

— E. E.


“EGGNOGG”

Yolks of thirty-two eggs and thirty-two heaping tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, beaten to a froth. Add to this one and a half pints of brandy and one-half pint of Madeira or sherry wine. To this add two and a half quarts of whipped cream; then beat the whites of the thirtytwo eggs to a stiff froth, and stir all thoroughly together, the whites of the eggs being added last of all.

Mrs. Tanier.


CAFE PARFAIT

Take two quarts of sweet fresh cream and put it in a bowl. Pound in a clean cloth one pound of ice and add to the cream. Add a pint and a half of essence of coffee, and sugar to taste.

Take two glass pitchers and pour the mixture from one pitcher into the other until thoroughly mixed. Keep on ice fifteen minutes until ready to serve. This is very suitable for an afternoon tea in summer.

— Celestine Eustis.




LA CUISINE CREOLE À L’USAGE DES PETITS MÉNAGES



UN PITI DINE CREOLE

AUX DELEGUES

DE NEW ORLEANS PRESS CLOB DE NEW ORLEANS PRESS CLOB, LA LEAGUE INTERNATIONAL DE PRESSE CLOB,

Dans l’Atheneum, cote l’encoignure Clio et St. Charles,
Samidi, 19 Fevrier, ci la la 1898,
Dans la Ville Nouvelle Orleans, Louisiane,
Coté neuf heurs du Soir.

———

Haillons cassés vaut
Mieux passé tout nu.
Absinthe et ’nisette.

Dans la Louisiane yé trouvé bon calas,
Des Huitres, Choupique et bamboula.
Huitres Bayou Maringouin.

Avec un bon gombo preparé par Silvie,
Sáns jamais babillé mo passé mo la vie.
Gombo filé,                     Bisque ’crebiches.
Piti Legumes avec di’ Sel.

Quand mo té gamin
Mo mama di moin,
Co’bullion poisson,
Mo garçon,
C’est qui’ chose qui bon.
Courtboullion Patassa.
HAUT SAUTERNES 1878 — Calvet et Cie.
Ravet jamais gagnin raison devont poule.
Paté Poule.

“Crébiches c’est fouti betail.”
Crébiches Bouilli.

Chaqu’n connain ça qua pé bouilli dans so chaudière.
Haricots Rouge — Riz.
ST. JULIEN 1876 — Calvet et Cie.

Ye vanté ye Terapin
Mais gouté un fois Caœne,
Et vous mangé qui chose qui fin.
Fricassé Caœne.

’Fo pas marré chien avec saucisses.
Jambalaya Tchourisse

Dinner Creole li pas complet
Sans piti cochon di lait.
Cochon maron farci roti,
Salade doucet et chicore.

Un zozo dans mo la main, vaut
Mieux que plein zozo qua pé
Voltige dans bois.
Cailles laurier en baguette
Cresson Bayou des Herbes.
CHAMPAGNE de G. H. MUMM et Cie.
Lagniappe c’est bitin qui bon.
Mais tac tac,                Pralines Pacanes,
Pain Patates,               La Cuite.
Quarti la Glace. Quarti Gateau.
Biscuit,                Nestomac milatte,
Pom’ cak Tante Zizine.

Yén a pas Soco ni Plaquemines,
Mais na donne vous ça qui na.
Banans, Z’Orange, Canne sucre, Mandarine.
Café Créole noire (“Morning Joy”).

Chatte Grille pair di feu.
Brulo.
Cigarettes perique — papier mais.
Cigarettes Creole — papier jaune.

Quand na pas choual, monté bourique;
Quand na pas bourique, monté cabri;
Quand na pas cabri, monté jambe.
Désigné et executé par Geo. G. Voitier, Steward N. O. P. C.


A SMALL CREOLE DINNER

TO THE DELEGATES OF

THE NEW ORLEANS PRESS CLUB, INTERNATIONAL LEAGUE OF THE PRESS CLUB


In the Atheneum, corner of Clio and St. Charles Streets,
Saturday, 19th February, 1898,
In the City of New Orleans, Louisiana,
Any time near nine o’clock.

———

Tattered rags are better than to go naked.
Absinthe and Anisette.

In Louisiana they find good calas, (cake eaten with coffee).
Oysters, Choupique and bamboula (national dance).
Oysters from Mosquito Bayou.

With a good gombo prepared by Silvie,
Without ever scolding I would pass my life.
Gombo filé,          Bisque ’crébiches.
Small vegetables with salt.

When I was a little boy
My mother would say
This stewed fish, my son,
Is mighty good.
Courtboullion Patassa from Bayou Patassa.
HAUT SAUTERNE 1878 — Calvet & Co.

A cockroach never holds its own before a hen.
Chicken Paté.

A crawfish is a darned beast!
Boiled crawfish.

Every one knows what boils in his own pot.
Red beans with rice (“Hopping John”).
SAINT JULIEN 1876 — Calvet & Co.

They boast of their terrapin,
But once taste Caœne,
And you taste something which is fine.
Fricassee Caœne (Pig-skin).
Don’t tie your dogs with sausages.
Jambalaya Tchourisses (Rice and blood-puddings).

A Creole dinner is not complete
Without a little suckling pig.
A runaway pig, stuffed and roasted.
Sweet salad with chickory.
A bird in the hand
Is better than all the birds flying in the woods.
Snipes with laurel leaves en baguette.
Watercresses from Bayou des Herbes.
CHAMPAGNE — G. H. Mumm & Co.

Lagniappe is something very good (a corruption of a Spanish word which means thrown in a market basket over and above).
Popcorn,       Sugared pecans,
Sweet potato bread,      Thick molasses.
The last drawn from the pots in the sugar-house before it turns to sugar.

A fourth of an ice cream. A fourth of a piece of cake.
Ice cream biscuit. Mulatto stomach (gingerbread).
Tante Zizine’s poundcake.

There are no Skipenon grapes and no persimmons,
But we’ll give you what there is.


Bananas, Oranges, Sugar cane, Mandarins.
Black Creole coffee (“Morning Joy”).
A singed cat fears the fire.
Brulo.
Cigarettes perique — corn paper.
Creole cigarettes — yellow paper.

When you have no horse, you ride a donkey;
When you have no donkey, you ride a goat;
When you have no goat, you go on foot

Designed and executed by George G. Voitier, Steward New Orleans Press Club.





LA CUISINE CREOLE A L’USAGE DES PETITS MÉNAGES

I. — GOMBO FILÉ

Mettez dans une casserole une cuillerée de saindoux bien frais et une de farine laissez-le roussir un brun doré, puis tournez toujours jusqu’à ce que votre roux devienne un brun dore. Coupez un oignon en petits morceaux et laissez-le frire. Coupez un chapon ou une poule en petits morceaux et mettez-les dans la casserole, remuez toujours jusqu’à ce que le poulet brunisse. Quand le tout est d’une jolie couleur, coupez une demi tranche de jambon en petits morceaux et faites frire en ajoutant un piment vert et un rouge, sel et poivre en gôut. Ajoutez un demi litre d’eau bouillante et laissez le cuire pendant deux heures et demie. Un quart d’heure avant de servir, ajoutez deux douzaines d’huîtres avec leur jus. Juste ou moment de servir, ajoutez une cuilleree a soupe de filet en tournant tout le temps, mettezle sur le feu un instant toujours en le travaillant. Ne mettez pas trop de filet, la cuillère ne doit pas être trop pleine. Servez très chaud avec du riz sec. Ou peut mettre des crevettes aulieu d’huîtres pour changer.

II. — GOMBO FÉVIS

Répetez la meme préparation de volaille que pour le Gombo filé, coupez quatre tomates crues dans une poêle, ajoutez y un canne de févis — ou une livre de févis frais coupés en petites tranches — faites tout revenir dans la poêle avec une demi cuillerée de saindoux pendant une demi-heure en tournant tout le temps que vous ajoutez au poulet et vous laissez le tout mijoter sur un petit feu une heure et demie ou deux heures. Servez chaud avec du riz sec dans un plat séparément.

GOMBO ZHERBES

Prenez une bonne poignée de feuilles de moutarde, de betteraves, de radis, d’épinards, de patience, et une salade de laitue; faites bouillir à gros bouillons, comme des épinards, égouttez, hachez le tout. Ensuite, faites frire quelques petits morceux de jambon, volaille coupée, ou poitrine de veau; ajoutez un peu de farine et faites roussir, mettez les herbes dans la poêle, faites mijoter avec quelques cuillerées d’eau et servez avec du riz sec. Il faut que cela ait la consistence d’une purée un peu ferme.

GOMBO DE CRABES

Prenez une demi livre de veau ou une demi volaille, coupez en tranches, faites un bon roux, ajoutez un demi 1’tre d’eau, faites mitonner sur le feu; épluchez douze ou quinze crabes avec les mains, conservant la chair seulement; faites revenir dans une poêle, avec du beurre, les crabes, pendant quelques minutes, puis versez-les dans la casserole sur le jus de veau et n’oubliez pas d’ajouter quelques petits morceaux de jambon frit, assaisonnez bien au goût et servez avec du riz sec. Avant de mêler les crabes à la sauce, il faut avoir soin de retirer tous les gros morceaux de viande, afin que le goût de crabe domine.

SOUPES À L’OSEILLE

Faites cuire dans un peu de beurre frais de l’oseille, ajoutez de l’eau, un peu de sel, laissez mijoter 1-2 heure, mettez un Wane d’œuf dans une tasse, délayez un jaune d’œuf avec un morceau de beurre et une cuillerée de crème si vous aimez, ajoutez à la soupe et versez-le sur des tranches de pain, servez un peu de cerfeuil haché dessus.

Après avoir cuit l’oseille, ajoutez trois cuillerées de tomate bien cuite, ajoutez de l’eau, sel, faites bouillir, mettez vermicelle, laissez mijoter longtemps.

Faites cuire de l’oseille comme ci-dessus, mettez de l’eau, coupez quelques pommes de terre laissez cuire une heure à feu pas trop vif, passez les pommes de terre au tamis, si vous préférez, liez avec quelques cuillerées de crème et versez sur des tranches de pain coupées très-fin.

PATAGE MARINIÈRE

Pour six personnes, prenez un litre d’eau faites bouillir. Dans l’eau bouillante jetez un oignon coupé en morceaux que vous avez fait cuire à la poêle, sans prendre couleur, laissez bouillir cinq minutes, ajoutez deux livres de poisson de différentes sortes, bien propre et très frais, venant d’etre peche si possible, salez et laissez bouillir modé-rément pendant quinze minutes, liez avec deux cuillerées de ayoli, laissez cuire deux minutes, liez de nouveau avec un jaune d’œufs, filet de vinaigre ou citron et un morceau de beurre très frais, passez sur de simples tranches de pain coupees tres fin, servez très-chaud.

Ayoli. — Dans un mortier en marbre ou en bois pilez une gousse d’ail quand elle est bouillie ajoutez de l’huile d’olive en tournant toujours procédez comme pour la mayonnaise, dont elle doit avoir là consistance, faites-en deux ou trois cuillerées et versez dans le potage en remuant et tenir seulement au chaud. Le potage doit être fait très minutieusement pas trop riche et n’avoir pas le goût d’ail il est delicieux.

SOUPE À LA JULIENNE

Pour la julienne il faut couper des carottes, navets, poireaux, céleri blanc en petits filets. Ajouter des petits morceaux de choux-fleurs, des pois verts un peu de persil hâchez-les faire frire dans du beurre sans les brunir — ajouter du bouillon de bœuf laisser mijoter à un petit feu deux heures, par assiettée de soupe, il faut calculer deux cuillerées de legumes coupes. Ou peut le faire au maigre, a 1’eau aulieu de bouillon, on y ajoute une cuillerée de sucre si l’on veut, ce qui est délicieux c’est du céleri cuit avec un peu de bon bouillon comme légume et mangé avec le poulet.

Notre cuisinière coupait un peu de choux dans la julienne et y mettait un peu de sucre, c’est très-bon.

RIZ À LA VALENCIENNES

Mettre dans une casserole très grande, quatre cuillerées d’huile d’olive, deux gousses d’ail coupés en petits dés, un gros oignon coupe en petits dés, 1-2 livre de jambon coupé en petits dés, un poulet gras, que vous dépecez.

Faites revenir le tout ensemble, dix minutes suffisent. Une fois le tout revenu, mettez immédiatement une livre de riz Caroline premiere qualite, donnez un tour de fourchette sur le feu, mettez ensuite l’infusion d’une pincée de safran, puis six tomates coupées en dés. Mouillez à point avec du bon bouillon, assaisonnez, sel, poivre, que vous avez auparavant en soin de bien faire frire dans un peu de saindoux. Mettez immédiatement au four très-chaud, pour que le riz gratine autour de la casserole. Cette casserole doit être en faïence munie de son couvercle. Une heure et quart suffit pour la confection de ce mets, lorsqu’on en comprend la cuisson.

JAMBALAYA

Prendre une volaille, bien l’assaisonner avec sel, poivre et piments, couper en petits morceaux et faire frire dans du saindoux (lard). Prendre du jambon coupé et faire frire dans la même poêle. Lorsque la volaille esto frite, ajouter de l’oignon coupé très-fin et les faire bien roussir. Puis ajouter des tomates coupées et faire frire. Du persil hâché. Lorsque tout est bien frit, ajouter de l’eau 12 tasse, pour une tasse de riz) et laisser mettre sur un feu très-vif; lorsque le riz commence à gonfler le mettre sur un petit feu et ajouter une petite cuillerée de beurre. Si vous tournez le riz dans la poêle, le tourner avec une fourchette.



DAUBE GLACÉE À LA CRÉOLE DE MADAME ROUZAN, NÉE OLIVIER

Prenez un morceau bien épais de tranche de bœuf (bas de la cuisse, morceau rond avec un os au milieu). Après l’avoir bien nettoyé, lardez-le libéralement avec du lard frais; salez et poivrez à votre goût et placez le tout dans une terrine; mettez autour et sur votre viande des fines herbes hachées, un oignon coupé en morceaux, sur l’un desquels vous piquerez un clou de girofle et une ou deux feuilles de laurier. Couvrez bien la terrine et mettez-la dans un endroit frais et laissez mariner la viande dans son jus pendant un, deux ou trois jours, selon la température et votre convenance, mais ayez soin, une fois ou deux le jour, de retourner votre viande, afin qu’elle ne sèche pas à sa partie supérieure.

N.B. — Si vous voulez que votre daube soit plus épicée, vous pouvez ajouter a 1’assaisonnement, ci-dessus, un petit morceau d’ail et une pointe de piment. Quelques personnes ont coutume aussi d’ajouter a la marinade ci-dessus, une ou deux cuillerées d’huile d’olive et un filet de vinaigre. Cela ne fait qu’ajouter à la succulence du plat, mais l’experience demontre que, dans ce cas, la daube, une fois cuite et froide, devient cassante et difficile à couper en morceaux réguliers et partant, moins appetissante a la vue. Le jour où vous devrez cuire votre daube, prenez plusieurs pieds de veau ou de porc frais (ces derniers sont peut-etre preferables) lavez-les et nettoyez les parfaitement et faites les bouillir, en ayant soin qu’ils soient toujours bien recouverts d’eau, jusqu’à ce qu’ils soient cuits et bien ramollis. Mettez le tout de côté pour vous en servir comme ci-aprés. (Ne laissez pas refroidir.)

Otez votre viande de sa marinade, mettez la dans une grande casserole avec un morceau de beurre ou de graisse (ou peut omettre le beurre ou la graisse, si la viande est abondamment lardée). Faites revenir votre daube, c’està-dire, faites la cuire pendant vingt minutes ou un peu plus, jusqu’à ce qu’elle ait pris couleur. Versez alors dessus, ce que la terrine peut avoir de la marinade, mettez quelques carottes dans la casserole, et versez-y ensuite, les pieds que vous avez cuits à part, avec leurs os, ainsi que toute l’eau dans laquelle ils ont été cuits. Couvrez la casserole et mettez à cuire à petit feu; de temps en temps, à mesure que le liquide baisse dans la casserole, remplacez par du bouillon (ou du beef tea) ou faute de bouillon, par de l’eau chaude. La cuisson devra continuer pendant plusieurs heures (selon la grasseur de la viande) et jusqu’à ce que la viande soit parfaitement cuite. Enlevez la viande de la casserole, enlevez et jetez tons les os des pieds, placez la viande dans un moule ou un plat ou il pourra prendre forme en refroidissant.

Battez un œuf et le mettez dans le liquide de la casserole, remuez bien le tout et passez dans une serviette et mettez à refroidir dans un plat creux. Le liquide deviendra de la gelée quand il sera refroidi et se servira à part.

DAUBE DE GAZWAY

Prendre une pièce de viande ronde; s’il y a un os, il faut l’enlever. La viande doit etre assaisonnee de sel et de poivre de chaque côte; bien lardée de chaque côté et laissez dépasser un morceau du lard lequel derra etre tranche de l’épaisseur du petit doigt et de la longueur d’un bon doigt. Assaisonnez le lard de sel et de poivre un moment avant de s’en servir.

Mettez la viande dans un vase, ajoutez un morceau de piment, un morceau d’ail, trois clous de girofles, deux feuilles de laurier, très-peu de thym, pas d’oignon. La daube doit etre laissee vingt-quatre heures dans son assaisonnement et doit etre retournee deux ou trois fois pendant ce temps-la.

Après les vingt-quatre heures, placez la daube dans une chaudière, ajoutez trois pieds de veau coupés en morceaux et deux carottes fendues en longueur et mettez la chaudière sur un feu modéré. Elle devra être bien recouverte pour empecher 1’evaporation et pour cela il faut placer sur le couvercle un poids comme deux fers à repasser.

La cuisson faite vous retirez les carottes et les placez comme un petit carré au fond du vase qui doit contenir la daube. Le vase doit laisser un peu d’espace autour de la daube pour la gelée. Coulez dans un linge tout le jus, versez-le dans le vase qui contient la daube et laissez refroidir jusqu’au lendemain.

Chef de Mr. Valerien Allain.

DAUBE GLACÉE DE MADAME EUSTIS, MÈRE

Prendre dans la tranche (ou round of beef) à peu près cinq à six livres de l’épaisseur de deux pouces un jour avant de cuire, coupez des bandes de lard frais, en morceaux d’un doigt de long et gros comme un doigt, assaisonnez le lard avec le sel le poivre, une bonne pincée de salpêtre, lardez la daube assez pres a pres, ensuite frottez la daube de chaque côté avec le reste de 1’assaisonnement. Apres avoir lardé le bœuf, il faut l’attacher avec une ficelle, ne pas trop serrer pour qu’elle garde la forme ronde et plate et en cuisant mettre un petit couvercle sur la casserole qui touche la viande et mettre un poids dessus. Faites bouillir les pieds de veau séparément et ajoutez cette eau gelatineuse à la daube. — Il faut mettre la daube dans une terrine jusqu’au lendemain. — De bonne heure mettre dans le fond d’une casserole, la couane du lard, faire un bouquet de persil, thym, un oignon entier, un petit morceau d’ail — mettre autour et dessous des pieds de veau coupés un deux, bien fendus par le boucher — on met le jus que la viande a rendu dedans. On laisse cuire une demi-heure sur un feu tres-doux. Apres ou met assez d’eau pour que les pieds cuisent jusqu’à ce que les os soient detaches. II faut que tout cuise à petit feu doux pendant cinq à six heures jusqu’à ce qu’en touchant la sauce, que les doigts sentent que c’est collant. Il faut couvrir la casserole et quand c’est cuit mettre le bœuf dans une terrine pour qu’elle prenne une bonne forme. Retirez les pieds et dégraissez un peu la sauce et passez-la bien chaude dans un morceau de flanelle, mettez aussi deux coquilles d’œufs pour éclaircir la gelée quand elle cuit. Après qu’elle est passée on la vide des côtés, au fond de la terrine, sans lever la daube en ayant eu soin de mettre quatre deml tranches de carottes dans le fond de la terrine, afin que la gelée se forme sur le bas qui va être le haut de la daube. On la met dans un endroit froid et quand on la sert, on la retourne sur un plat rond. Il faut essayer souvent avant de réussir.

GRILLADES DE VEAU, DE MA-DAME JOSEPHINE MICAUD NICAUD

Demandez la petite tranche de veau, c’est plus tendre. Coupez une livre et demie de veau en petits carrés de trois centimètres, un centimetres d’epaisseur, mettez une grande cuillerée de lard dans la poêle, faites chauffer très-chaud, faites frire votre veau jusqu’à ce qu’il soit bien roussi, ajoutez des oignons coupes tres-fins, laissez colorer, ajoutez un quart de canne de tomates; sel, poivre, persil, laissez cuire, ajoutez un peu de farine, laissez roussir, mettez un peu de beurre, un peu d’eau, laissez cuire au petit feu à peu près une demi-heure, couvrez à demi pour laisser échapper la vapeur. On peut aussi ajouter des piments verts avec l’eau, car le piment ne permet pas la friture.

On peut aussi cuire du riz de veau dans cette même sauce en retirant quelques morceaux de veau pour faire place et en les bassinant avec cette sauce qui les rend dorés.

Les perdrix cuites de cette manière — c’est délicieux. — Faites revenir dans un roux quelques perdrix, ajoutez deux ou trois cuillerées de tomates, laissez tout mijoter une heure au petit feu. Assaisonnez au goût avec, sel, poivre, persil.

FOIE DE VEAU À LA CÉLESTE
autrement dit un plat canaille

Coupez quelques tranches de foie de veau très-tendre à peu près trois centimètres carrés, faites un roux, ajoutez si vous voulez très-peu d’oignon hâché fin, faites revenir ou frire vos tranches de foie de veau, ajoutez un peu de jus de viande ou bouillon, un peu de persil, laissez mijoter une demi-heure, faites bouillir du macaroni Italien, mettez dans un grand plat, avec des morceaux de citron. C’est un plat canaille, comme disait la vieille Celeste, mais délicieux.

PERDRIX AUX CHOUX

Faire blanchir les choux, presser pour faire sortir l’eau ficelez et faites revenir dans le même beurre que les perdreaux, faites un roux, ajoutez quelques morceaux de carotte, faire cuire pendant trois heures.

Faire revenir les perdreaux, ajouter les choux blanchis, carottes, oignons, persil, vin blanc, bouillon et un peu de rhum, faire cuire trois heures.

Faire revenir quelques morceaux de lard, ensuite les perdreaux, ajouter choux blanchis, bouillon, saucisson, jambon, chipolata, faire cuire trois heures.

BLANQUETTE DE VEAU

Coupez des morceaux de veau en carrés faites les revenir d’une belle couleur dorée ajoutez de l’eau froide, juste au niveau de la viande, mettez sel, poivre, un oignon, une carotte, persil, feuille de laurier, faites cuire deux heures à petit feu. Dans une autre casserole, mettez un morceau de beurre bien frais, deux cuillerées de farine, tournez toujours et faites bien cuire sans prendre couleur, mouillez avec le jus de la viande, laissez mijoter, dans une tasse délayez un jaune d’œuf avec jus de citron ou filet de vinaigre et une cuillerée de crème, ajoutez à la sauce, tournez un instant, mais ne pas laisser bouillir et versez sur la viande que l’on a gardée au chaud avec un peu de jus. On peut y ajouter quelques champignons si l’on veut.

Leonie Penin.

FARCE POUR PÂTÉS OU POUR DES DINDES OU POUR DES VOLAILLES

Hâchez très-fin une demi-livre de jeune veau bien assaisonne, faites revenir avec un peu de graisse et farine, ajoutez un peu d’eau des huîtres, faites frire les huitres là-dedans.

Même farce pour les volailles et les dindes en ajoutant un peu de pain séché au four mettez-y du piment rouge.

On peut aussi cuire des pigeons dans cette même sauce et du riz de veau.

CERVELLES DE VEAU OU MOUTON AU BEURRE NOIR

Prenez un litre d’eau, un oignon, persil, feuille de laurier, sel et poivre, faites bouillir quinze minutes, ajoutez deux cervelles de veau très-fraiches, laissez bouillir vingt minutes, retirez et égouttez, mettez dans un plat, salez et poivrez, ajoutez un filet de vinaigre ou du jus de citron, versez dessus du beurre noir (sans être brûlé) saupoudrez de persil frais haché très-fin ou si vous préférez quelques branches de persil frit, servez très-chaud.

ROGNONS DE MOUTON SAUTÉS

Prenez gros comme une noisette de beurre et deux cuillerees de farine, faites un roux mouillez avec du bouillon, ajoutez, un petit oignon, persil, feuille de laurier, sel et poivre, faites mijoter une demi-heure, ajoutez quelques cuillerées de madère ou sherry, dix minutes après mettez quatre rognons de mouton (très-frais) coupés en tranches minces, laissez mijoter cinq ou six minutes, servez garni de croutons.

Si cela vous plait, vous pouvez y ajouter quelques champignons coupés et quelques petits morceaux de lard frit.

Prendre de la viande de cochon préparée pour saucisse, melez a des pieds de cochon bien bouillis, enveloppéz dans une toillette c’est la dentelle de graisse qui provient du mouton; faire frire. Délicieux pour le déjeuner.

BÉCASSINES DE LA NOUVELLE ORLÉANS

Faites une gelée madère et pieds de veau, prenez du veau, un petit morceau de pore salè et de foie de veau; hâchez le tout très-fin, avec assaisonnement, laissez mijoter à un feu doux, pulverisez, mêlez le tout faites une bonne pate, hachez truffes et champignons, ajoutez l’eau des deux. Mettez vos becassines coupees en deux, remplissez les avec le hachis mettez au feu dix minutes, arrosez avec la gelée.

CRABES FARCIS

Seulement échauder vos crabes avec de l’eau bouillante, nettoyez bien, ôtez seulement la chair qui est ferme et le jaune, jetez-le humectez avec de la creme, goutez si c’est amer, ajoutez une petite cuillerée de beurre, mie de pain, sel, poivre, remettez dans les coquilles, saupoudrez de chapelure, mettez au four.

COTES DE HOMARD

Prenez six pommes de terre cuites pour un homard. Faites revenir le homard a 1’huile, ajoutez-y un verre de cognac allumez-le, tout en le laissant sur le feu et le tournant, quand la flamme est eteinte, le cognac fini, on ajoute du vin blanc, poivre, sel, cayenne et versez par-dessus une sauce tomate bien assaisonnée.

BRANDADE DE MORUE

Dessalez la morue pendant vingt-quatre heures au moins, blanchissez-la au feu, ôtez la peau, les arrêtes, pilezla bien au mortier, ayez de l’huile, de l’ail, du persil, un peu de vinaigre bouillant, mêlez votre morue en tournant toujours du meme cote et en y ajoutant toujours de l’huile et de la crème (ou du lait) à mesure que cela devient épais, tournez bien jusqu’à ce qu’elle soit blanche, servez dans un plat ou dans une croute de vol au vent.

J’ai compris que c’est sur un feu doux qu’on tourne toujours, c’est comme la mayonnaise à peu près. Cela se garde et se mange froid pendant un ou deux jours — c’est très-riche.

POUR FOND DE CUISINE
SAUCE AU VEAU

Pour qu’une cuisine soit bonne, il faut toujours qu’elle ait une base ou fond de cuisine. — Ayez une bonne gelée, faite avec une tranche de jeune veau, un pied de veau, faites revenir dans la poêle, comme pour faire du bœuf à la mode — ajoutez-y un petit morceau d’oignon, deux carottes tranchées en deux, une feuille de laurier, persil, sel et poivre, ajoutez deux tasses d’eau, laissez mijoter trois ou quatre heures, passez dans une passoire, laissez refroidir, enlevez la graisse et servez-vous de cela pour bassiner vos rôtis, beefsteak, côtelettes — coupez en petits morceaux et servez avec viandes froides et salade. — La même sauce peut se faire avec des rogatons, pour un ménage economique.

SAUCE TOMATE

Prenez une canne de tomates ou dix ou douze tomates bien fraiches, un petit oignon, sel, poivre persil — mettez dans une casserole un petit morceau de beurre — laissez mijoter deux ou trois heures — mettez dans un bol. Vous pourrez vous servir de cette sauce pour la soupe, pour épaissir des ragouts, avec des ceufs poches, ce qui fait des œufs Portugais ou avec du riz ainsi qu’avec du macaroni, tout de suite vous avez un plat délicieux — très-utile et économique pour les petits ménages.

SAUCE TARTARE

Dans un bol mettez deux jaunes d’œuf une cuillerée à thé de moutarde, tournez et ajoutez de l’huile d’olive goutte à goutte et tournant toujours et du même côté; sans quitter la sauce, quand celle-ci est bien prise ajoutez sel et poivre, et un filet de vinaigre, juste au moment de la finir mettez du persil, cerfeuil, ciboulette, un soupgon d’echalotte ou oignon, le tout hâché très-fin, melangè délicatement à la sauce, pour ne pas la faire tourner.

Servez avec du poisson frit ou cuit au court-bouillon ou avec de la viande froide.

SAUCE HUBERT

Après cuisson d’échalottes dans du vinaigre passez-les dans un tamis, dans le même tamis passez, foie de poulet qui aura cuit sur le gril, délayez peu à peu avec un peu d’échalotte passée; au moment de servir terminez le mélange, ajoutez le jus du rôti.

SAUCE BORDELAISE

Versez dans une casserole, 1-2 bouteille de vin de Bordeaux, ajoutez sel, piment, persil, echalotte hachee. Faites réduire le liquide de moitié ajoutez-y un peu de sauce brune et sauce tomate, passez le tout a 1’etamine ou à passoire, coupez en dés 1-4 de livre de Moelle de bœuf et servez bien chaud.

SAUCE BLANCHE

Prenez trois jaunes d’œuf, mettez-les dans une petite casserole, ajoutez de la crème, une cuillerée de beurre, faites cuire au bain-Marie, tournez la sauce tout le temps pour qu’elle prenne bien. Il faut faire la sauce une demiheure avant d’en avoir besoin et au moment de la servir y ajouter un jus de citron ou quelques gouttes de vinaigre.

Pour des œufs a la Morelle vous faites bouillir vingt minutes des ceufs très-durs que vous coupez et ajoutez à cette sauce avec un peu de jus d’oignon en ajoutant un peu de poivre rouge.

Cette même sauce peut servir pour des huîtres, ce qui fait des huitres à la poulette.

SAUCE BÉARNAISE

Hâchez six échalottes, mettez-les dans une casserole avec le quart d’un verre de vinaigre, faites réduire et passez à la passoire. Dans une autre casserole mettez trois jaunes d’œuf, 150 grammes de beurre et faites au bain-Marie, après vous y additionnez de 1’essence d’echalotte, un peu de gelée de viande et un jus de citron, cela ne doit pas bouillir.

HARICOTS VERTS

Mettez un petit oignon et un bouquet de persil, feuille de laurier, un rien de thym, attachez avec un fil, laissez bouillir quinze minutes — les haricots verts une demi heure à peu pres a gros bouillons, comme les épinards, bien égoutter tout de suite afin qu’ils ne se refroidissent pas — pour les sécher plus vite, les sécher dans une cuvette bien propre ou un morceau de “cheesecloth” qui a été bien lavé auparavent, pas dans son neuf.

HARICOTS VERTS, MALTRE D’HÔTEL

Après avoir lavé et épluché les haricots jetez-les dans l’eau bouillante, ajoutez-y une bonne poignée de sel, les faire cuire vivement, vingt à vingt-cinq minutes suffisent, au moment de les servir il faut bien les égoutter dans une pressoire, les mettre dans un légumier avec un peu de sel et du beurre a volonte; remuez très-légèrement, la chaleur des haricots doit faire fondre le beurre, saupoudrez d’un peu de persil haché et servez, il faut surtout ne pas les laisser tremper dans l’eau avant de les faire cuire et ne pas les preparer a l’avance dans le légumier et les égoutter vivement pour qu’ils ne refroidissent pas.

Pour la cuisson environ quatre litres d’eau pour 500 grammes d’haricots.

PATATES DOUCES AU FOUR

Faites bouillir six patates pas trop grosses, on les épluche et les écrase, ajoutez un peu d’eau, sel, poivre, sucre a volonte, une cuillerée de beurre, délayez bien jusqu’à ce que cela soit d’une consistance de pâte. — Mettez dans un plat au four, piquez avec une paille pour voir si c’est cuit. Meme recette pour pudding patate, en ajoutant deux œufs, une demi-tasse de lait et un peu de muscade.

Faites cuire au four des patates douces, tranchées et rissolées dans du beurre et du sucre; c’est delicieux avec du rosbeef.

OSEILLE

L’oseille doit être bien épluchée et lavée. Mettez-la cuire a l’eau bouillante à grande eau et salée, cinq minutes de cuisson, retirez-la avec précaution et mettez-la dans une bassine d’eau froide si l’oseille est très-acide, faites cette opération deux fois, retirez-la aussitôt et égouttez-la bien. Dans une casserole, mettez un bon morceau de beurre, l’oseille et du sel, mettez sur le feu et remuez toujours afin que en fondant le beurre se lie bien à l’oseille, ajoutez un peu de lait, encore un morceau de beurre et liez toujours, servez garni de croutons frits.

POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFLÉES

Coupez en lames de belles pommes de terre pas trop épaisses, mettez-les à la friture pas trop chaude, faites-les frire tout doucement, aussitôt que vos pommes montent sur la friture, retirez-les, faites chauffer de nouveau votre friture bien chaude, plonges-les dedans jusqu’à ce qu’elles soient bien gonflées et sèches, retirez-les et servez.

Le Chef — A. Christi.

GRATIN AUX POMMES DE TERRE

Coupez les pommes de terre crues de la forme et de l’épaisseur d’une piece de cinq francs. Beurrez un plat de faïence qui va au four; placez une couche de pommes de terre saupoudrées de poivre, sel, d’un peu de fromage de Gruyère râpé; ajoutez un peu de beurre. Superposez les couches de pommes de terre ainsi saupoudrees jusqu’à ce que le plat soit plein. Recouvrez le tout d’une autre couche de fromage de Gruyère, poivre, sel, un peu de beurre. Mettez dans un four bien chaud; arrosez deux ou trois fois d’un peu de bouillon ou de lait. Servez chaud. — Dans les campagnes françaises on ne fait ce plat que les jours de grande lessive afin que le four soit très chaud; car si ce n’est pas saisi, au lieu d’être excellent, ce mets est insipide. Il ne faut pas non plus employer d’autre fromage que celui de Gruyere, fraichement rapé.

Une Savoisienne.

LA SACCAMITÉ

La saccamité se mange avec des canards sauvages. Laissez tremper une tasse de saccamité dans deux litres d’eau froide toute la nuit, le lendemain laissez-le bouillir quatre heures sur un petit feu dans deux litres d’eau . . . il doit absorber toute l’eau — mettez-le dans un plat a re-froidir, coupez en tranches et faites frire dans du saindoux et servez chaud avec canards sauvages.

Les enfants l’aiment bien simplement bouilli en ajoutant du sucre et un peu de lait ou crème.

Les restes de hominy peuvent s’utiliser de la même manière.

SALADE À LA DUE DE MORNY

Coupez en très-petites tranches des pommes de terre qui ont été bouillirs et salées ne les laissez pas trop refroidir, assaisonnez-les avec poivre, sel, huile et vinaigre — coupez quelques truffes en tranches même grandeur que les pommes de terre, mêlez-les ensemble et versez par-dessus une jolie sauce mayonnaise.

BANANES

Epluchez et tranchez des bananes, roulez-les dans du sucre et faites frire dans du beurre frais.

Ou cuites entières dans du sirop de bâtrie, comme une confiture ou bien dans leur peau au four.

CERVELLES DE MOUTON PANDÉES

Faites bouillir quinze minutes dans un litre d’eau, un oignon, persil, feuille de laurier, sel et poivre; mettez trois cervelles de mouton, très-fraiches et bien dégorgées, laissez bouillir dix minutes, retirez et laissez égoutter dans un linge. Après qu’elles sont refroidies, coupez-les en petits morceaux carrés, embrochez-les avec petites brochettes en argent, roulez-les dans trois blancs d’œuf battus en neige, puis dans de la chapelure blanche, faites frire à grande et bonne friture très-chaude, servez avec les brochettes, dressez et garnissez avec persil frit ou frais et tranches de citron, ne faire frire que juste au moment de servir, ce mets ne pouvant attendre, quelques minutes suffisent, faire vite et servir très-chaud et bien égoutté.

CALAS

Bel Calas tout chauds! est le cri de la négresse qui les vend dans la rue dans des bols en bois qu’elle porte sur la tete enveloppes d’une serviette bien propre. Les calas se mangent avec du café au marché le matin; c’est délicieux!

Une tasse de riz bien bouilli a l’eau laissez refroidir, ajoutez une grande cuillerée de yeast et une demi-tasse d’eau on bat le tout ensemble le soir lendemain matin, ajoutez un œuf, un peu de sel, une petite cuillerée de sucre, une grande cuillerée de farine ordinaire, la farine de riz est préférable, mais difficile à se procurer, battez le tout bien ensemble puis laissez tomber dans beaucoup de saindoux très-chaud, une cuillerée de ce mélange, retournez-les jusqu’à ce qu’ils soient bien brunes ... et posez-les sur une serviette bien chaude, posée sur une assiette près du feu. Cela se mange avec le café au lait.

CORNBREAD

Une tasse de corn meal, deux cuillerées de farine, une cuilleree a cafe de sucre, un peu de sel, un œuf, une cuillerée de beurre, une demi cuilleree a cafe de baking powder bien battre le tout et faire cuire dans des moules beurrés.

MUFFINS

Une tasse de riz, et une cuillerée de beurre, i tasse de farine, I cuilleree a soupe de sucre, i demi cuilleree a cafe de sel, i œuf, i cuilleree a cafe de baking powder délaye au lait doux, battre, faire pâte lisse, cuire dans des moules beurrés.

PAIN BLANC

Deux quarts 1-2 ou 3 quarts de farine. Mettre dans la farine, à sec une grande cuillerée de sel, et une de sucre. Puis faire tremper et dissoudre dans une tasse d’eau, un petit paquet de yeast, puis le meler a la farine. Fondre dans un fer blanc, une cuillerée de beurre et une de saindoux (lard). Ajouter à ce mélange fondu, 2 tassées de lait et une d’eau, jeter ce liquide en 2 ou 3 fois dans la farine, et bien tourner avec une cuillerée ou un couteau, jusqu’à ce que le fond du plat soit net ainsi que la cuillere. Laisser lever toute la nuit dans un endroit tempéré et le lendemain matin retourner la pâte 2 ou 3 fois, et la diviser en pains.




PAIN NOIR

Pour le pain noir faire de la meme maniere, excepte, avoir 2 quarts de farine au lieu de trois et ajouter une demi tasse de sirop.

MARYLAND BISCUITS

Pour le thé de cinq heures. Mettez dans un bol une tasse de farine, ajoutez-y deux cuillerees a the de baking powder, un quart de cuilleree a the de sel, travaillez le tout avec un couteau ajoutez une demi-pinte de crème. Travaillez le tout jusqu’à ce que cela forme une bonne pâte; sur une planche, roulez-le a l’epaisseur d’un pouce. Mettez au four assez chaud 10 minutes. Coupez-les en deux et trempez-les dans du beurre fondu; remettez-les ensemble au four pendant 3 minutes. Légers et délicieux.

GATEAU SEC DE LÉONIE PENIN

Prenez 1 tasse de sucre, 1 tasse de lait, 1 tasse de farine, mettez 3 œufs tout ensemble blanc et jaune dans un bol; mélangez le tout ensemble, bien travaillé, faites cuire dans des assiettes en fer blanc beurrées et saupoudrez d’un peu de farine.

Faites plus épais pour un gâteau chocolat, que vous tranchez et y mettez une confiture d’abricots. — 3 tablettes de chocolat Menier ou un quart, une tasse de lait, faites bouillir le lait, mettez le chocolat dedans, faites dissoudre le chocolat en le tournant, laissez cuire un quart d’heure. — Laissez refroidir et appliquez sur le gateau.

UN PUDDING DE MAIS

Prenez 5 epis mais que vous faites bouillir, râpez mettezles dans un bol, ajoutez une cuillerée de sucre, une pincée de sel, une grande cuillerée de crème, 4 jaunes d’œuf, battez 4 blancs d’oeuf en neige, mélangez le tout bien ensemble et versez dans un plat beurré, mettez au four une demi-heure assez chaud comme pour faire du soufflet.

RECETTE DE LA GENOISE

Mettez deux œufs dans une balance, pesez de l’autre côté autant de sucre en poudre que ce poids, autant de beurre, meme quantite de farine. Faites fondre un peu de beurre cassez les œufs, sans battre, ni blanc, ni jaune mélangez bien le tout ensemble, ajoutez-y une petite pincée de sel, beurrez un peu un plat en fer blanc et faites cuire. On peut ajouter quelques amandes pilées, si on les aime. On peut aussi rouler cette pâte et en faire des petits gateaux sees pour le thé, c’est très-bon, ou les découpe avec un verre ou autre moule.

FROMAGE À LA CRÈME

Dans un endroit frais, sans etre a la glacière, laissez tourner un litre ou deux de bon lait; quand il est très-ferme, mettez égoutter dans un linge en le tenant suspendu pendant une nuit; le lendemain détachez et mettez dans une terrine avec un grain de sel et une pincée de sucre, bien battre jusqu’à que ce soit une pate legere et lisse, mettez dans des petits moules troués ou petits paniers, garnis d’un linge propre et sec. Mettez-les pendant deux heures sur la glace, renverez-les dans un compotier et versez dessus de la crème douce, servez. On peut se servir plusieurs fois des mêmes linges en ayant soin de les laver aussitôt, mais ne jamais user de savon, faites bouillir avec “washing soda,” rincez et laissez tromper longtemps a l’eau fraiche et faites-les bien sécher au grand air.

— Leonie Penin.

CRÈME À LA GLACE À LA CÉLESTINE

Prenez 6 jaunes d’œuf, 1 blanc, une demi livre de chocolat extra fin, 2 tasses de sucre, un quart de litre de crème bien fraîche, un morceau de vanille. Battez les jaunes d’œuf dans un bol, ajoutez les blancs, puis le sucre (battez ferme), et ajoutez la crème. Faites dissoudre le chocolat dans du lait chaud, puis laissez-le épaissir dans un BainMarie, en ajoutant de la vanille, versez le dans un bol, puis passez dans un tamis, faites glacer, puis mettez dans un moule sur la glace.

RIZ À L’ANGLAISE

1-2 kilogramme de riz cuit dans, 2 litres de lait — pour la crème anglaise; 1-2 kilogramme de sucre, 3-4 litre de lait, 7 ceufs entiers; 45 grammes de gelatine, 3-4 litre de creme fouettee. Quelques fruits coupés.

GATEAU DE MOUSSELINE

Sept œufs, une demi-livre de sucre un quart de fécule de pomme de terre. Battez le jaune avec le sucre, ajoutez la fécule, et après le blanc bien battu. Passez le sucre et la fécule au soleil.

POMMES CUITES À LA THOMAS JEFFERSON

Prenez 6 ou 8 belles pommes, épluchez-les en ayant soin d’enlever le cœur, que vous remplissez de sucre brut, mettez-les dans un fer blanc, saupoudrez-les du même sucre, posez par dessus quelques tranches de citron et un morceau de canelle, arrosez avec quelques cuillerées d’eau et mettez-les au four; les pommes seront dorées et auront une belle gelée. Cela se mange avec de la crème.

— Edgehill, Virginia.

FLAN AUX CERISES

Garnissez le moule à flan avec de la pate brisee, abaissee a un demi-centimètre. Saupoudrez d’une bonne couche de sucre en poudre. Retirez les noyaux de vos cerises, et rangez celles-ci sur le flan. Mettez au four une demi-heure, laissez refroidir, et si vous possédez de la confiture de cerises, mettez en une couche légère sur les cerises.

— M. Melvy.

GATEAU PRALINE OU ILE FLOTTANTE

Pulvérisez un quart de livre de pralines grises. Battez en neige 4 blancs d’œufs, ajoutez les pralines en poudre, sucre a volonte faites ce mélange vivement et sans battre de nouveau, mettez dans un moule, que vous avez enduit de caramel, mettez au bain-marie et au four pas trop chaud, laissez 20 minutes, faites refroidir et démoulez au moment de servir, garnissez avec une creme a la vanille.

— Leonie Penin.

PETIT AVIS AUX MÉNAGÈRES

Les pieds de veau que l’on retire d’une daube peuvent se réchauffer. On peut aussi faire cuire des riz de veau avec un petit morceau de veau, un oignon, et persil chily sauce. Un moment avant de les retirer du feu, ajouter dans la sauce cette sauce tomate que l’on vend en bouteille. Il faut passer les riz de veau quelques minutes dans l’eau chaude, pas bouillante, les laisser égoutter, faire cuire le veau un peu avant de le mettre avec et que la sauce soit un peu brune.

Lavez vite à grande eau vos légumes verts ne les laissez jamais tremper dans l’eau.

Z’AFFAIRE CABRI E’EST PAS Z’AFFAIRE MOUTON

Ti mouton la queu coupé train train du ballet
Sapoti! bombi! sapoti bombi coffer to té pas hélé
Comment vos tu que je hèle!
Petit moso papier pous suyer nez tétés —
Cote tape courri? yapé golloper!

La cuisine est comme la jardinage il y a toujours quelque chose à apprendre.

POUR FAIRE DU BON CAFÉ

Faire du bon café! Le conseil a l’air debonnaire; mais, dans la pratique, les difficultés abondent. Voici ce que conseille, à ce sujet, aux menageres meticuleuses et prévoyantes le “Revue universelle.”

Prendre un filtre en fer-blanc tout simplement; les filtres en fer-blanc sont les meilleurs. Cet outillage modeste etant organise comme il convient, placez votre café moulu sur le filtre, 10 grammes par tasse suffisent; quand l’eau est a moitie chaude, arrosez pour le preparer a recevoir les infusions et faciliter le filtrage. Quand l’eau bout, jetez-la en quatre fois sur le café: la première infusion entraîne la force dudit café, la deuxième une partie du café, la troisieme et quatrième le dépouillent de tout ce qui aurait pu résister aux autres infusions. Sous aucun prétexte ne mettre le café sur le feu, il n’y a pas de moyen plus sûr pour en détruire toutes ses qualités. Tenez l’appareil servant au café avec la plus grande propreté. Souvent, le mauvais goût qu’on trouve provient d’un manque de lavage a l’eau froide. Il faut trois ou quatre mélanges pour faire du bon café, et bien grillé clair: moka, bourbon, martinique.

THE END





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Source

Eustis, Célestine, and James Herndon. Cooking in Old Créole Days: La Cuisine Créole à l’Usage des Petits Ménages. New York: R.H. Russell, 1903. Internet Archive. 04 Sept. 2008. Web. 25 Feb. 2014. <https:// archive.org/ details/ cu3192400 1669005>.

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