THE JOURNALS OF LEWIS AND CLARK
[Clark, May 14, 1804]
May the 14th-Monday Set out from Camp River a Dubois at 4 oClock P.M. and
proceded up the Missouris under Sail to the first Island in the Missouri
and Camped on the upper point opposit a Creek on the South Side below a
ledge of limestone rock Called Colewater, made 41/2 miles, the Party
Consisted of 2, Self one frenchman and 22 Men in the Boat of 20 ores, 1
Serjt. & 7 french in a large Perogue, a Corp and 6 Soldiers in a large
Perogue. a Cloudy rainey day. wind from the N E. men in high Spirits
[Clark, May 14, 1804]
Monday May 14th 1804 Rained the forepart of the day I determined to go as
far as St. Charles a french Village 7 Leags. up the Missourie, and wait at
that place untill Capt. Lewis Could finish the business in which he was
obliged to attend to at St Louis and join me by Land from that place 24
miles; by this movement I calculated that if any alterations in the
loading of the Vestles or other Changes necessary, that they might be made
at St. Charles I Set out at 4 oClock P.M. in the presence of many of the
Neighbouring inhabitents, and proceeded on under a jentle brease up the
Missourie to the upper Point of the 1st Island 4 Miles and Camped on the
Island which is Situated Close on the right (or Starboard) Side, and
opposit the mouth of a Small Creek called Cold water, a heavy rain this
after-noon The Course of this day nearly West wind from N. E
[Lewis, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday May 15th It rained during the greater part of last night and
continued untill 7 OCk. A.M. after which the Prarty proceeded, passed two
Islands and incamped on the Stard. shore at Mr. Fifer's landing opposite
an Island, the evening was fair. some wild gees with their young brudes
were seen today. the barge run foul three several times — on logs, and
in one instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off;
happily no injury was sustained, tho the barge was several minutes in
eminent danger; this was cased by her being too heavily laden in the
stern. Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri and the
Mississippi also below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the
precaution to load their vessels heavyest in the bow when they ascend the
stream in order to avoid the danger incedent to runing foul of the
concealed timber which lyes in great quantities in the beds of these
rivers.
[Clark, May 15, 1804]
Tuesday 15 — rained all last night and this morning untill 7 oClock,
all our fire extinguished, Some Provisions on the top of the Perogus wet,
I sent two men to the Countrey to hunt, & proceed on at 9 oClock, and
proceeded on 9 miles and Camped at a Mr Pip. Landing just below a Coal
Bank on the South Side the prarie Comes with 1/4 of a mile of the river on
the N. Side I sent to the Setlements in the Pairie & purchased fowls
&. one of the Perogue are not Sufficently maned to Keep up.
Refurences from the 15th of May (2) a large Island to the Starboard; (3)
passed a Small Island in the bend to the Starbord, opposit Passage De Soux
and with 11/2 miles of the mississippi, observed a number of Gosselins on
the edge of the river many passing down, Strong water & wind from the
N E — Passed a Place Lbord Called the Plattes, a flat rock projecting
from the foot of a hill, where there is a farm, (5) pass an Small Isld
near the Center of the river, run on Several logs this after noon, Camped
at Mr. Pipers Landing.
[Clark, May 15, 1804]
May 15th Tuesday Rained the greater part of the last night, and this
morning untile 7 oClock — at 9 oClock Set out and proceeded on 9 miles
passed two Islands & incamped on the Starbd. Side at a Mr. Pipers
Landing opposit an Island, the Boat run on Logs three times to day, owing
her being too heavyly loaded a Sturn, a fair after noon, I Saw a number of
Goslings to day on the Shore, the water excessively rapid, & Banks
falling in-.
[Clark, May 16, 1804]
Wednesday May 16th A fair morning, Set out at 5 oClock passed the Coal
hill (Call by the natives Carbonear) this hill appears to Contain great
quantytes of Coal, and also ore of a rich appearance haveing greatly the
resemblance of Silver Arrived Opposit St Charles at 12 oClock, this
Village is at the foot of a Hill from which it takes its real name
Peeteite Coete or the little hill, it contains about 100 indefferent
houses, and abot 450 Inhabetents principally frinch, those people appear
pore and extreemly kind, the Countrey around I am told is butifull.
interspursed with Praries & timber alturnetly and has a number of
American Settlers
Took equal altituds with Sextion M a 68°37'30" Dined with the Comdr. &
Mr. Ducetts family — (1) Passed an Island on the L Side just above the
bank one just above, two Small ones oposut under the St. Shore, one on Lb.
Side below St Charles, arrived at this place at 12 oClock a fine Day
[Clark, May 16, 1804]
May 16th Wednesday a fair morning Set out at 5 oClk pass a remarkable Coal
Hill on the Larboard Side Called by the French Carbonere, this hill appear
to Contain great quantity of Coal & ore of a ——— appearance from this
hill the village of St Charles may be Seen at 7 miles distance — we
arrived at St. Charles at 12 oClock a number Spectators french &
Indians flocked to the bank to See the party. This Village is about one
mile in length, Situated on the North Side of the Missourie at the foot of
a hill from which it takes its name Petiete Coete or the Little hill This
village Contns. about 100 houses, the most of them Small and indefferent
and about 450 inhabitents Chiefly French, those people appear pore, polite
& harmonious — I was invited to Dine with a Mr. Ducett this
gentleman was once a merchant from Canadia, from misfortunes aded to the
loss of a Cargo Sold to the late judge Turner he has become Somewhat
reduced, he has a Charming wife an eligent Situation on the hill Serounded
by orchards & a excellent gardain.
[Clark, May 17, 1804]
Thursday the 17th 1804 a fine Day 3 men Confined for misconduct, I had a
Court martial & punishment Several Indians, who informed me that the
Saukees had lately Crossed to war against the Osage Nation Som
aplicasions, I took equal altitudes made the m a. to be 84° 39' 15"
measured the Missouries at this place and made it 720 yards wide, in
Banks. a Boat came up this evening, I punished Hall agreeable to his
Sentence in part, a fine after noon; Suped with Mr. Ducett an agreeable
man more agreeable Lady, this Gentleman has a Delightfull Situation &
garden.
[Clark, May 17, 1804]
May the 17th Thursday 1804 a fair day Compelled to punish for misconduct.
Several Kickapoos Indians Visit me to day, George Drewyer arrive. Took
equal altitudes of Suns L L made it 84° 39' 15" ap T. Measured the river
found it to be 720 yards wide, a Keel Boat Came up to day — Several of
the inhabitents Came abord to day receved Several Speces of Vegatables
from the inhabitents to day
[Ordway, May 17, 1804] Orders St. Charles Thursdy the 17th of May 1804- a
Sergeant and four men of the Party destined for the Missourri Expidition
will convene at 11 oClock to day on the quarter Deck of the Boat, and form
themselves into a Court martial to hear and determine (in behalf of the
Capt.) the evidences aduced against William Warner & Hugh Hall for
being absent last night without leave; contrary to orders;-& John
Collins 1st for being absent without leave — 2nd for behaveing in an
unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night — 3rdly for Speaking in a
language last night after his return tending to bring into disrespect the
orders of the Commanding officer
Signd. W. Clark Comdg.
Detail for Court martial
Segt. John Ordway Prs.
members
R. Fields
R. Windsor
J. Whitehouse
Jo. Potts
The Court convened agreeable to orders on the 17th of May 1804 Sgt. John
Ordway P. members Joseph Whitehouse Rueben Fields Potts Richard Windsor
after being duly Sworn the Court proceded to the trial of William Warner
& Hugh Hall on the following Charges Viz: for being absent without
leave last night contrary to orders, to this Charge the Prisoners plead
Guilty. The Court one of oppinion that the Prisoners Warner & Hall are
Both Guilty of being absent from camp without leave it being a breach of
the Rules and articles of war and do Sentence them Each to receive
twentyfive lashes on their naked back, but the Court recommend them from
their former Good conduct, to the mercy of the commanding officer. — at
the Same court was tried John Collins Charged 1st for being absent without
leave — 2d. for behaveing in an unbecomming manner at the ball last
night idly for Speaking in a languguage after his return to camp tending
to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer — The
Prisoner Pleads Guilty to the first Charge but not Guilty to the two last
chrges. — after mature deliberation & agreeable to the evidence
aduced. The Court are of oppinion that the Prisnair is Guilty of all the
charges alledged against him it being a breach of the rules & articles
of War and do Sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his naked back — The
Commanding officer approves of the proceedings & Desicon of the Court
martial and orders that the punishment of John Collins take place this
evening at Sun Set in the Presence of the Party. — The punishment
ordered to be inflicted on William Warner & Hugh Hall, is remitted
under the assurence arriveing from a confidence which the Commanding
officer has of the Sincerity of the recommendation from the Court. — after
the punishment, Warner Hall & Collins will return to their squads and
Duty
The Court is Disolved.
Sign. Wm. Clark
[Clark, May 18, 1804]
Friday May the 18th 1804 a fine morning took equal altitude and made it
97° 42′ 37″ M. A
I had the Boat & Pierogue reloded So as to Cause them to be heavyer in
bow than asturn recved of Mr. Lyon 136 lb. Tobacco on act. of Mr. Choteau
Gave out tin Cups & 3 Knives to the French hands, Mr. Lauriesme
returned from the Kickapoo Town to day delayed a Short time & Set out
for St. Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St Louis &
wrote to Cap Lewis Mr. Ducett made me a present of rivr Catts & Some
Herbs our french hands bring me eggs milk &c. &. to day The wind
hard from the S. W. Two Keel Boats came up to this place to day from
Kentucky
[Clark, May 18, 1804]
May the 18th Friday 1804 a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat
& perogue examined and changed So as the Bow of each may be heavyer
laded than the Stern, Mr. Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap Lewis to the
Kickapoo Town on public business return'd and after a Short delay
proceeded on to St Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Capt
Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats
&c. &. the wind from the SW. Took equal altitudes with Sexetn Made
it 97°42' 37" MT.
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
Satturday May the 19th 1804 a Violent Wind last night from the W. S W,
Suckceeded by rain with lasted Som hours, a Cloudy Morning, many persons
Came to the boat to day I took equal altitudes. mar time 76° 33' 7"
I heard of my Brothers illness to day which has given me much Concurn, I
settle with the men and take receipts for Pay up to the 1st of Decr. next,
I am invited to a ball in the Village, let Several of the men go, — R
Fields Kill a Deer George Drewyear returned with a hundred Dollars, he
lost
[Clark, May 19, 1804]
May 19th Satturday 1804 A Violent Wind last night from the W. S. W.
accompanied with rain which lasted about three hours Cleared away this
morn'g at 8 oClock, I took receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st.
of Decr. next, R. Fields Kill a Deer to day, I recve an invitation to a
Ball, it is not in my power to go. George Drewyer return from St Louis and
brought 99 Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap Lewis to me, Seven Ladies
visit me to day
[Lewis, May 20, 1804]
Sunday May 20th 1804 The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10
oCk A M. agreably to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was joined by
Capt. Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford & Worrell together with Messrs. A.
Chouteau, C. Gratiot, and many other respectable inhabitants of St. Louis,
who had engaged to accompany me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly
at 12 Oclk after bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that
excellent woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair
friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that village in order to join my
friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William Clark who had
previously arrived at that place with the party destined for the discovery
of the interior of the continent of North America the first 5 miles of our
rout laid through a beatifull high leavel and fertile prarie which
incircles the town of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the lands through
which we then passed are somewhat broken up fertile the plains and
woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you arrive within
three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences and continues to the
Missouri the latter is extreamly fertile. At half after one P.M. our
progress was interrupted the near approach of a violent thunder storm from
the N. W. and concluded to take shelter in a little cabbin hard by untill
the rain should be over; accordingly we alighted and remained about an
hour and a half and regailed ourselves with a could collation which we had
taken the precaution to bring with us from St. Louis.
The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession, insomuch
that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing to rain this evening;
as I had determined to reach St. Charles this evening and knowing that
there was now no time to be lost I set forward in the rain, most of the
gentlemen continued with me, we arrived at half after six and joined Capt
Clark, found the party in good health and sperits. suped this evening with
Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late Commandant of St.
Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on board the barge — St.
Charles is situated on the North bank of the Missouri 21 Miles above it's
junction with the Mississippi, and about the same distance N. W. from St.
Louis; it is bisected by one principal street about a mile in length
runing nearly parrallel with the river, the plain on which it stands-is
narrow tho sufficiently elivated to secure it against the annual
inundations of the river, which usually happen in the month of June, and
in the rear it is terminated by a range of small hills, hence the
appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this vilage is better known to
the French inhabitants of the Illinois than that of St. Charles. The
Vilage contains a Chappel, one hundred dwelling houses, and about 450
inhabitants; their houses are generally small and but illy constructed; a
great majority of the inhabitants are miserably pour, illiterate and when
at home excessively lazy, tho they are polite hospitable and by no means
deficient in point of natural genious, they live in a perfect state of
harmony among each other; and plase as implicit confidence in the
doctrines of their speritual pastor, the Roman Catholic priest, as they
yeald passive obedience to the will of their temporal master the
commandant. a small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their
cultivation, and this is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; the men
in the vigor of life consider the cultivation of the earth a degrading
occupation, and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves
and families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or
engage themselves as hirelings to such persons as possess sufficient
capital to extend their traffic to the natives of the interior parts of
the country; on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent
from their families or homes the term of six twelve or eighteen months and
alwas subjected to severe and incessant labour, exposed to the ferosity of
the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of weather and climate, and
dependant on chance or accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the
event of malady. These people are principally the decendants of the
Canadian French, and it is not an inconsiderable proportian of them that
can boast a small dash of the pure blood of the aboriginees of America. On
consulting with my friend Capt. C. I found it necessary that we should
pospone our departure untill 2 P M. the next day and accordingly gave
orders to the party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that
hour.
Captn. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the stores on board
the Barge and perogues on the evening of the 13th of May he determined to
leave our winter cantainment at the mouth of River Dubois the next day,
and to ascend the Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles, where as
it had been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my arrival;
this movement while it advanced us a small distance on our rout, would
also enable him to determine whether the vessels had been judiciously
loaded and if not timely to make the necessary alterations; accordingly at
4 P.M. on Monday the 14th of May 1804, he embarked with the party in the
presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who had assembled to
witness his departure. during the fore part of this day it rained
excessively hard. In my last letter to the President dated at St. Louis I
mentioned the departure of Capt. Clark from River Dubois on the 15th Inst,
which was the day that had been calculated on, but having completed the
arrangements a day earlyer he departed on the 14th as before mentioned. On
the evening of the 14th the party halted and encamped on the upper point
of the first Island which lyes near the Larbord shore, on the same side
and nearly opposite the center of this Island a small Creek disimbogues
called Couldwater.
The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles the Wind from N. E.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May a Cloudy morning rained and a hard wind last night I
continue to write Rolls, Send 20 men to Church to day one man Sick Capt
Lewis and Several Gentlemen arrive from St Louis thro a violent Shoure of
rain, the most of the party go to the Church.
[Clark, May 20, 1804]
Sunday 20th May A Cloudy morning rained and hard wind from the ____ last
night, The letter George lost yesterday found by a Country man, I gave the
party leave to go and hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. ____ a romon
Carthlick Priest at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by the
Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy Showr of
Rain Mssr. Lutenants Minford & Werness. Mr. Choteau Grattiot, Deloney,
Laber Dee Ranken Dr. SoDrang rained the greater part of this evening.
Suped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdt. of St Charles a Spanish
Ensign.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
Monday 21st May Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at
three oClock after getting every matter arranged, proceeded on under a
jentle Breese, at one mile a Violent rain with Wind from the S. W. we
landed at the upper point of the first Island on the Stbd Side &
Camped, Soon after it commenced raining & continued the greater part
of the night; 3 french men got leave to return to Town, and return early
(refur to Fig. 2.)
25st refured to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st 1804. Steered N. 15° W
13/4 Ms N 52°W to the upper point of the Island and Camped dureing a rain
which had been falling half an hour, opposit this Isd. Corns in a Small
creek on the St. Sd. and at the head one on the Ld. Side rains powerfully.
[Clark, May 21, 1804]
May 21st 1804 Monday All the forepart of the Day Arranging our party and
prcureing the different articles necessary for them at this place — Dined
with Mr. Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock under three Cheers
from the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island
(which is Situated on the Stbd Side) 3 miles Soon after we Set out to day
a hard Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which lasted
with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a Small creek corns in
on the Lbd Side-
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
Tuesday May 22nd delayed a Short time for the three french men who
returned and we Set out at 6 oClock a Cloudy morning rained Violently hard
last night Saw Several people on the bank to day & passed Several
Small farms. Capt. Lewis walk on Shore a little & passed a Camp of
Kickapoo Indians, & incamped in the mouth of a Small Creek in a large
Bend on the Stbd Side.
[Clark, May 22, 1804]
May 22nd Tuesday 1804 a Cloudy morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who
got liberty to return to arrange Some business they had forgotten in Town,
at 6 oClock we proceeded on, passed Several Small farms on the bank, and a
large creek on the Lbd. Side Called Bonom a Camp of Kickapoos on the St.
Side Those Indians told me Several days ago that they would Come on &
hunt and by the time I got to their Camp they would have Some Provisions
for us, we Camped in a Bend at the Mo. of a Small creek, Soon after we
came too the Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave
them two qts. of whiskey-
This Day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands on the Starboard
Side, Verry hard water.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
Wednesday May 23rd 8 Indians Kick. Came to Camp with meat we recved their
pesents of 3 Deer & gave them Whisky.
Set out early run on a log under water and Detained one hour proceeded on
the Same Course of last night, (2 miles) passed the mouth of a creek on
the Sbd. Side called Woman of Osage River about 30 yds. over, abounding in
fish, Stoped one hour where their was maney people assembled to See us,
halted at an endented part of a Rock which juted over the water, Called by
the french the tavern which is a Cave 40 yds. long with the river 4 feet
Deep & about 20 feet high, this is a place the Indians & french
Pay omage to, many names are wrote up on the rock Mine among others, at
one mile above this rock coms in a small Creek called Tavern Creek, abov
one other Small Creek, camped at 6 oClock (after expirencing great
dificuselty in passing Some Drifts) on the Stb Side, examined the mens
arms found all in good order except the Detachment of Solds in the Perogue — R
Field Killed a Deer.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Course of last night S 75 W Contined 2 miles to the Said point
St. Side passed the upper Point of the Island Thence S 52° W. 7 Miles to a
pt. on St. Sd. passing Tavern Island two Small Isd. in a bend to the St.
side the Mo. of Oge womans River at 1 m. the Cave Called the Tavern, Lbd
Side at 5 m. Situated in the Clifts, opposit a Small Island on the Stbd
Side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people, passed the Tavern
Cave, Capt Lewis assended the hill which has peninsulis projecting in
raged points to the river, and was near falling from a Peninsulia hard
water all Day Saved himself by the assistance of his Knife, passed a Creek
15 yds. wide at 1 mile called Creek of the Tavern on the Lbd. Side, Camped
opposit the pt. which the Last Course was to. one man Sick.
[Clark, May 23, 1804]
May 23rd Wednesday 1804 We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one
hour, proceeded the Course of Last night 2 Miles to the mouth of a Creek
on the Stbd. Side Called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. wide, opposit a
large Island and a Settlement. (on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled)
Crossed to the Settlemt. and took in R & Jo. Fields who had been Sent
to purchase Corn & Butter &c. many people Came to See us, we
passed a large Cave on the Lbd. Side about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep
& 20 feet high many different immages are Painted on the Rock at this
place. the Inds & French pay omage. many hams are wrote on the rock,
Stoped about one mile above for Capt Lewis who had assended the Clifts
which is at the Said Cave 300 fee high, hanging over the Water, the water
excessively Swift to day, we incamped below a Small Isld. in the Meadle of
the river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer
This evening we examined the arms and amunition found those mens arms in
the perogue in bad order a fair evening Capt. Lewis near falling from the
Pencelia of rocks 300 feet, he caught at 20 foot.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
Thursday May the 24th 1804 Set out early passed a Small Isd in the Midlle
of the river, opposit the on the Lbd. Side is projecting Rock of 1/2 a
mile in extent against which the Current runs, this place is called the
Devils race grounds,1 above this Coms in a Small Creek called the little
quiver, a Sand Island on the Stbd Side, passed Several Islands & 2
creeks, on the Stbd Side a Small Island on the Lbd Side above we wer verry
near loseing our Boat in Toeing She Struck the Sands the Violence of the
Current was so great that the Toe roap Broke, the Boat turned Broadside,
as the Current Washed the Sand from under her She wheeled & lodged on
the bank below as often as three times, before we got her in Deep water,
nothing Saved her but
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Set out early, Killed a Deer last night. examined the mens arms,
& Saw that all was prepared for action, passed an Island in the M. R,
opposit a hard place of water called the Devill race grown, S 63° W 4
miles to a point on the Sd. Starboard Side N 68 W to a point on Lbd Side 3
ms. Passd. a Small Willow Island on the Lbd. Side to the point of a Isd. L
Side — S 75° W to a point on Stbd Side 3 Miles, Passed the upper point
of the Island. Crossed and in a verry bad place we got our Boat a ground
& She Bocke the Toe Roap & turned the Land, the in Wheeling three
times, got off returned to the head of the aforesaid Island, and Came up
under a falling Bank. hard water this place being the worst I ever Saw, I
call it the retregrade bend. Camped at an old house.
[Clark, May 24, 1804]
May 24th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed a Verry bad part of the River
Called the Deavels race ground, this is where the Current Sets against
Some projecting rocks for half a mile on the Labd. Side, above this place
is the mouth of a Small Creek Called queivere, passed Several Islands, two
Small Creeks on the Stbd. Side, and passed between a Isld. an the Lbd.
Shore a narrow pass above this Isld is a Verry bad part of the river, we
attempted to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in So fast that
the evident danger obliged us to Cross between the Starbd. Side and a Sand
bar in the middle of the river, we hove up near the head of the Sand bar,
the Sand moveing & banking caused us to run on the Sand. The Swiftness
of the Current wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and was nearly over
Setting the boat, all hand jumped out on the upper Side and bore on that
Side untill the Sand washed from under the boat and wheeled on the next
bank by the time She wheeled a 3rd Time got a rope fast to her Stern and
by the means of Swimmers was Carred to Shore and when her Stern was down
whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into Deep water near the Shore,
we returned, to the Island where we Set out and assended under the Bank
which I have just mentioned, as falling in, here George Drewyer &
Willard, two of our men who left us at St. Charles to Come on by land
joined us, we Camped about 1 mile above where we were So nearly being
lost, on the Labd Side at a Plantation. all in Spirits. This place I call
the retragrade bend as we were obliged to fall back 2 miles
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
25 May Set out early Course West to a Point on Sbd. Side at 2 Miles passd
a Willow Isd. in a Bend to the Lbd. a creek called wood rivr Lbd. Side N
57° W. to a pt. on the Sb. Side 3 Miles passed the Mouth of a Creek St.
Side Called Le quever, this Same course continued to a Point Ld. Side 21/2
Miles further. opposit a Isd. on Sd Side Passed a Creek Called R. La
freeau at the pt. N 20° W 2 miles To a Small french Village called La
Charatt of five families only, in the bend to the Starbord This is the
Last Settlement of Whites, an Island opposit
[Clark, May 25, 1804]
May 25th Friday 1804 rain last night river fall Several inches, Set out
early psd. Several Islands passed wood River on the Lbd Side at 2 miles
passed Creek on the St. Side Called La Querer at 5 miles passed a Creek at
8 mile, opsd. an Isd. on the Lbd Side, Camped at the mouth of a Creek
called River a Chauritte, above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as
many families, Settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade
with the Indians, here we met with Mr. Louisell imedeately down from the
Seeeder Isld. Situated in the Countrey of the Suxex 400 Leagues up he gave
us a good Deel of information Some letters he informed us that he Saw no
Indians on the river below the Poncrars — Some hard rain this evening
The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they Sent us milk &
eggs to eat.
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May 26th 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a hard rain & Wind, &
proceed on verry well under Sale. Wind from the E N E
The wind favourable to day we made 18 miles a Cloud rais & wind &
rain Closed the Day
[Clark, May 26, 1804]
May the 26th Sattarday 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of
rain (George Drewyer & John Shields, Sent by Land with the two horses
with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next) The wind
favourable from the E N E passed Beef Island and river on Lbd Side at 31/2
Ms Passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side Called Shepperds Creek, passed Several
Islands to day great Deal of Deer Sign on the Bank one man out hunting, w
Camped on an Island on the Starboard Side near the Southern extrem of
Luter Island.
[Lewis, May 26, 1804]
Detatchment Orders. May 26th 1804. The Commanding Officers direct, that
the three Squads under the command of Sergts. Floyd Ordway and Pryor
heretofore forming two messes each, shall untill further orders constitute
three messes only, the same being altered and organized as follows (viz)
1 Sergt. Charles Floyd. (1)
Privates:
2 Hugh McNeal
3 Patric Gass
4 Reubin Fields (2)
5 John B Thompson
+ 6 John Newman
7 Richard Winsor
+ Francis Rivet &
8 Joseph Fields (3)
9 Sergt. John Ordway.
Privates.
10 William Bratton (4)
11 John Colter (5)
X 12 Moses B. Reed
13 Alexander Willard
14 William Warner
15 Silas Goodrich
16 John Potts &
17 Hugh Hall
18 Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor. (6)
Privates.
19 George Gibson (7)
20 George Shannon (8)
21 John Shields (9)
22 John Collins
23 Joseph Whitehouse
24 Peter Wiser
F 25 Peter Crusat &
F 26 Francis Labuche
The commanding officers further direct that the remainder of the
detatchmen shall form two messes; and that the same be constituded as
follows. (viz)
Patroon, Baptist Dechamps
Engages
Etienne Mabbauf
Paul Primaut
Charles Hébert
Baptist La Jeunesse
Peter Pinaut
Peter Roi &
Joseph Collin
1 Corpl. Richard Warvington.
Privates.
2 Robert Frasier
3 John Boleye
4 John Dame
5 Ebinezer Tuttle &
6 Isaac White
The Commanding officers further direct that the messes of Sergts. Floyd,
Ordway and Pryor shall untill further orders form the crew of the
Batteaux; the Mess of the Patroon La Jeunesse will form the permanent crew
of the red Perogue; Corpl. Warvington's mess forming that of the white
perogue.
Whenever by any casualty it becomes necessary to furnish additional men to
assist in navigating the Perogues, the same shall be furnished by daily
detale from the Privates who form the crew of Batteaux, exempting only
from such detale, Thomas P. Howard and the men who are assigned to the two
bow and the two stern oars. — For the present one man will be
furnished daily to assist the crew of the white perogue; this man must be
an expert boatman.
The posts and duties of the Sergts. shall be as follows (viz) — when
the Batteaux is under way, one Sergt. shall be stationed at the helm, one
in the center on the rear of the Starboard locker, and one at the bow. The
Sergt. at the helm, shall steer the boat, and see that the baggage on the
quarterdeck is properly arranged and stowed away in the most advantageous
manner; to see that no cooking utensels or loos lumber of any kind is left
on the deck to obstruct the passage between the burths — he will also
attend to the compas when necessary.
The Sergt at the center will command the guard, manage the sails, see that
the men at the oars do their duty; that they come on board at a proper
season in the morning, and that the boat gets under way in due time; he
will keep a good lookout for the mouths of all rivers, creeks, Islands and
other remarkable places and shall immediately report the same to the
commanding officers; he will attend to the issues of sperituous liquors;
he shall regulate the halting of the batteaux through the day to give the
men refreshment, and will also regulate the time of her departure taking
care that not more time than is necessary shall be expended at each halt — it
shall be his duty also to post a centinel on the bank, near the boat
whenever we come too and halt in the course of the day, at the same time
he will (acompanied by two his guard) reconnoiter the forrest arround the
place of landing to the distance of at least one hundred paces. when we
come too for the purpose of encamping at night, the Sergt. of the guard
shall post two centinels immediately on our landing; one of whom shal be
posted near the boat, and the other at a convenient distance in rear of
the encampment; at night the Sergt. must be always present with his guard,
and he is positively forbidden to suffer any man of his guard to absent
himself on any pretext whatever; he will at each relief through the night,
accompanyed by the two men last off their posts, reconnoiter in every
direction around the camp to the distance of at least one hundred and
fifty paces, and also examine the situation of the boat and perogues, and
see that they ly safe and free from the bank
It shall be the duty of the sergt. at the bow, to keep a good look out for
all danger which may approach, either of the enimy, or obstructions which
may present themselves to passage of the boat; of the first he will notify
the Sergt. at the center, who will communicate the information to the
commanding officers, and of the second or obstructions to the boat he will
notify the Sergt. at the helm; he will also report to the commanding
officers through the Sergt. at the center all perogues boats canoes or
other craft which he may discover in the river, and all hunting camps or
parties of Indians in view of which we may pass. he will at all times be
provided with a seting pole and assist the bowsman in poling and managing
the bow of the boat. it will be his duty also to give and answer all
signals, which may hereafter be established for the government of the
perogues and parties on shore.
The Sergts. will on each morning before our departure relieve each other
in the following manner — The Sergt. at the helm will parade the new
guard, relieve the Sergt. and the old guard, and occupy the middle station
in the boat; the Sergt. of the old guard will occupy the station at the
bow, and the Sergt. who had been stationed the preceeding day at the bow
will place himself at the helm. — The sergts. in addition to those
duties are directed each to keep a seperate journal from day today of all
passing occurences, and such other observations on the country &c. as
shall appear to them worthy of notice
The Sergts. are relieved and exempt from all labour of making fires,
pitching tents or cooking, and will direct and make the men of their
several messes perform an equal propotion of those duties.
The guard shall hereafter consist of one sergeant and six privates &
engages.
Patroon, Dechamp, Copl. Warvington, and George Drewyer, are exempt from
guad duty; the two former will attend particularly to their perogues at
all times, and see that their lading is in good order, and that the same
is kept perfectly free from rain or other moisture; the latter will
perform certain duties on shore which will be assigned him from time to
time. all other soldiers and engaged men of whatever discription must
perform their regular tour of guad duty.
All detales for guard or other duty will be made in the evening when we
encamp, and the duty to be performed will be entered on, by the
individuals so warned, the next morning. — provision for one day will
be issued to the party on each evening after we have encamped; the same
will be cooked on that evening by the several messes, and a proportion of
it reserved for the next day as no cooking will be allowed in the day
while on the mach
Sergt. John Ordway will continue to issue the provisions and make the
detales for guard or other duty. — The day after tomorrow lyed corn
and grece will be issued to the party, the next day Poark and flour, and
the day following indian meal and poark; and in conformity to that ratiene
provisions will continue to be issued to the party untill further orders. — should
any of the messes prefer indian meal to flour they may recieve it
accordingly — no poark is to be issued when we have fresh meat on
hand.
Labuche and Crusat will man the larboard bow oar alternately, and the one
not engaged at the oar will attend as the Bows-man, and when the attention
of both these persons is necessary at the bow, their oar is to be maned by
any idle hand on board.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. Wm. Clark Cpt.
[Clark, May 27, 1804]
Sunday May 27th as we were Setting out this morning two Canoos loaded with
Bever elk Deer Skins & Buffalow Robes, from the Mahars nation, they
inform that they left that place 2 months, a gentle Breese from the S. E,
we camped on an Isd in the mouth of Gasconade R, this river is 157 yards
wide a butifull stream of clear water. 19 foot Deep Hills on the lower
Side
[Clark, May 27, 1804]
May 27th Sunday 1804 as we were pushing off this Morning two Canoos Loaded
with fur &c. Came to from the Mahars nation, which place they had left
two months, at about 10 oClock 4 Cajaux or rafts loaded with furs and
peltres came too one from the Paunees, the other from Grand Osage, they
informed nothing of Consequence, passed a Creek on the Lbd Side Called ash
Creek 20 yds wide, passed the upper point of a large Island on the Stbd
Side back of which Comes in three Creeks one Called Orter Creek, her the
men we left hunting Came in we camped on a Willow Island in the mouth of
Gasconnade River. George Shannon Killed a Deer this evening
[Clark, May 28, 1804]
Monday 28th May rained hard all the last night Some wind from the S W, one
Deer Killed to day, one Man fell in with Six Indians hunting, onloaded the
perogue, & found Several articles Wet, Some Tobacco Spoiled. river
begin to rise
[Clark, May 28, 1804]
May 28th Munday 1804 Gasconnade Rained hard all last night Some thunder
& lightening hard wind in the forepart of the night from the S W.
Ruben Fields Killed a Deer Several hunter out to day I measured the river
found the Gasconnade to be 157 yds. wide and 19 foot Deep the Course of
this R. is S 29° W, one of the hunters fell in with 6 Inds. hunting,
onloaded the large Perogue on board of which was 8 french hands found many
things wet by their cearlenessness, put all the articles which was wet out
to Dry — this day So Cloudy that no observations could be taken, the
river begin to rise, examine the mens arms and equapage, all in Order
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
Tuesday 29th May Sent out hunters, got a morning obsvtn and one at 12
oClock, rained last night, the river rises fast The Musquetors are verry
bad, Load the pierogue
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
May 29th 1804 Set out from the mouth of the gasconnade, where we took
obsevn &c. left a Perogue for a man lost in the woods, Course N. 54 W
2 m to a point Lb. Side. Passed the Isd. on which we Camped, river still
rised, water verry muddey N. 78° W 2 Ms. to a pt. on Lb Side passed two
willow Islands first Smaller and a Creek on Lbd. called Deer Creek one
oposit the point St. Side and incamped on the Lb Side rain all night the
tents together along the N; 76° W 25° Poles S 26° W, to
the point above — S
19° to the pot below the River
[Clark, May 29, 1804]
May 29th Tuesday rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters Sent out with
Orders to return at 12 oClock Took equal altitudes of Suns Lower limb
found it 105° 31' 45"
Cap Lewis observed meridean altitude of sun U L-back observation with the
octant & artificeal horozen — gave for altitude on the Limb 38°
44' 00" sun octant Error 2 0 0 +
had the Perogues loaded and all perpared to Set out at 4 oClock after
finishing the observations & all things necessary found that one of
the hunters had not returned, we deturmined to proceed on & leave one
perogue to wate for him, accordingly at half past four we Set out and came
on 4 miles & camped on the Lbd Side above a Small Creek Called Deer
Creek, Soon after we came too we heard Several guns fire down the river,
we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivile on the Bow
[Clark, May 30, 1804]
May 30th, Wednesday, Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy rain, rained all
last night, a little after Dark last night Several guns were herd below, I
expect the French men fireing for Whitehous who was lost in the woods.
[Clark, May 30, 1804]
May 30th Wednesday 1804 Rained all last night Set out at 6 oClock after a
heavy Shower, and proceeded on, passed a large Island a Creek opposit on
the St. Side just abov a Cave Called Monbrun Tavern & River, passed a
Creek on the Lbd. Side Call Rush Creek at 4 Miles Several Showers of rain
the Current Verry Swift river riseing fast Passed Big Miry River at 11
Miles on the Starboard Side, at the lower point of a Island, this River is
about 50 yards Wide, Camped at the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Sd of abt 25
yds. Wide Called Grinestone Creek, opposit the head of a Isd. and the
mouth of Little Miry River on the St Side, a heavy wind accompanied with
rain & hail we Made 14 miles to day, the river Continue to rise, the
County on each Side appear full of Water.
[Clark, May 31, 1804]
May 31st Thursday 1804 rained the greater part of last night, the wind
from the West raised and blew with great force untile 5 oClock p.m.which
obliged us to lay by a Cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came down from
the Grand Osarge, one french man one Indian, and a Squar, they had letters
from the man Mr. Choteau Sent to that part of the Osarge Nation Settled on
Arkansa River mentioning that his letter was Commited to the flaims, the
Inds. not believeing that the Americans had possession of the Countrey
they disregarded St Louis & their Supplies &c. — Several rats
of Considerable Size was Cought in the woods to day — Capt Lewis went
out to the woods & found many curious Plants & Srubs, one Deer
killed this evening
[Clark, June 1, 1804]
June 1st Friday 1804 Set out early, the Same Course S 48° W of Wednesday
contd. 4 ms passed the Mouth of Little Miry on the Stb & high rich
Land on the Lb Side, S. 45°W to an Island opposit a hill on the S. Sd. 6
Ms. this Isd is on the Lbd. passed the Mo. of Bear creek 25 yds wide at 2
ms. & three Small Isd., Some Swift water and banks falling in, Wind a
head from the West, S 39° W 3 ms. to the Pt. above the mouth of Osage
River Larb Side, Camped fell a number of Trees in the Point to take
observation a fair after noon, Sit up untill 1 oClock to take Som
observations &c.
[Clark, June 1, 1804]
June 1st 1804 Friday Set out early a fair morning Passed the mouth Bear
Creek 25 yds. Wide at 6 Miles, Several Small Islands in the river the wind
a head from the West the Current exceedingly rapid Came to on the point of
the Osarges River on the Labd Side of Missouries this osages river Verry
high, felled all the Trees in the point to Make observations Sit up untill
12 oClock taken oservation this night
[Clark, June 2, 1804]
June 2nd — Took the Dirts. of Son & moon &c &c. I measured
the Osage & Missouris at this place made ther width as follows, the
Missoure 875 yd. wide The Osage R 397 yds. wide, the distance between the
2 rivers 80 poles up is 40 Ps. Took equal altitudes & Mredian altitude
also-and made them ____ I assended the hill in the point 80 ps. from the
pt. found it about 100 foot high, on the top is 2 graves, or mouns, a
Delightfull prospect from this hill which Comds. both rivers
Drewyer & Shields came to the opposit Side to day at SunSet we sent
across & brought them over, they had been absent 7 Days Swam many
creeks, much worsted. They informed us that the Countrey on both Sides of
muddy river's to the hill called by the french ____ 3 ms. below this
place, a Small Praries below the hill, 4 Deer Killed to day I assend a
hill &. after measuring the river &c. &c. &c.
[Clark, June 2, 1804]
June 2nd Satturday Cap Lewis Took the Time & Distance of suns &
moons nearest limbs, the Sun East — and Meridean altitude of Suns U.
L. with Octant, back observation gave for altitude 37° 28"00".
Error of Octant 2° 00' 00" +. made Several other observations — I made
an angle for the Wedth of the two rivers. The Missourie from the Point to
the N. Side is 875 yards wide the Osage River from the point to the S. E
Side is 397 yards wide, the destance between the two rivers at the pt. of
high Land (ioo foot above the bottom) and 80 poles up the Missouries from
the point is 40 poles, on the top of this high land under which is a
limestone rock two Mouns or graves are raised — from this pt. which
Comds both rivers I had a delightful) prospect of the Missouries up &
down, also the Osage R. up. George Drewyer & John Shields who we had
Sent with the horses by Land on the N Side joined us this evening much
worsted, they being absent Seven Days depending on their gun, the greater
part of the time rain, they were obliged to raft or Swim many Creeks,
those men gave a flattering account of the Countrey Commencing below the
first hill on the N Side and extendg Parrelal with the river for 30 or 40
Ms. The Two Muddey river passing Thro & som fine Springs & Streams
our hunters kill Several Deer to day, Some Small licks on the S E of the
Osage River.
[Clark, June 3, 1804]
June Sunday 3rd 1804 the fore part of the day fair I attempted to take
equal alltitudes, & M Altitudes, but was disapointed, the Clouds
obsured the Sun, took the D. of sun & moon Capt Lewis & George
Drewyer went out & Killed a Deer, We Set out at 5 oClock P M Cloudy
& rain, West 5 Ms. to the mo. of Murrow Creek Lb Sd. a pt. St. Side
Keeping along the Lbd Side 1 Ms., passed the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Side
3 ms., I call Cupboard, Creek, mouths behind a rock which projects into
the river, Camped in the mouth of the Creek aforesaid, at the mouth of
this Creek I saw much fresh Signs of Indians, haveing Crossed 2 Deer
Killed to day. I have a verry Sore Throat, & am Tormented with
Musquetors & Small ticks.
[Clark, June 3, 1804]
June 3rd Sunday 1804 The forepart of the day fair Took meridional altitude
of suns U:L with the Octant and Glass Horrison adjusted back observation.
the instrument gave 38° 2' 00" — it was Cloudy and the Suns disk much
obsured, and Cannot be Depended on.
We made other Observations in the evening after the return of Capt Lewis
from a walk of three or four ms. round — We Set out at 5 oClock P.M.
proceeded on five miles to the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. 20 yds. wide
Called Murow, passed a Creek at 3 ms. which I call Cupbord Creek as it
Mouths above a rock of that appearance. Several Deer Killed to dayat the
mouth of the Murow Creek I Saw much Sign of war parties of Inds. haveing
Crossed from the mouth of this Creek. I have a bad Cold with a Sore
throat. Near West 5 Miles
[Clark, June 4, 1804]
June 4th 1804 Monday, a fair Day Sent out 3 hunters, our mast broke by the
boat running under a tree Passed an Islands on Stbd Side on which grow
Seeder a Creek at ____ miles on the Starbd Sd. Course N. 30° W 4 ms. to
pt. on St. Side below 2d Isd. passed a Creek on Lbd Side 15 yd. wide, I
call Nightingale Creek. this Bird Sang all last night and is the first of
the kind I ever herd, below this Creek and the last Passed a Small Isd on
the Stbd. N. 25 W. 3 ms. to a pt. on St. Sd. passed a Sm. Isd. on St. Sd.
and Seeder Creek on the Same Side 20 yds wide passed a Creek on Lbd Sd. 20
yd wide, I call Mast Creek, this is a Short Creek, fine land above &
below the mouth. Jentle rise of about 50 foot, Delightfull Timber of Oake
ash walnut hickory &c. &c. wind from N W. by W. N. 58° W. 71/2 ms.
passed a Creek Called Zoncar on the Lbd Side, N 75° W 3 me. to a pt, S. Sd.
called Batue a De charm, a plain on the hill opposit. I got out &
walked on the L Sd. thro a Charming Bottom of rich Land about one mile
then I assended a hill of about 170 foot on the top of which is a Moun and
about 100 acres of Land of Dead timber on this hill one of the party says
he has found Lead ore a verry extensive Cave under this hill next the
river, the Land on the top is fine, This is a very bad part of the river
Seven Deer Killed to day by our hunters — one of the horses is Snaged,
the other lost his Shous to day the Bottom on the St. Side to day is
covered with rushes, not verry good ____ the high land Comes to the bank
on the Labd Side and good 2d rate land.
[Clark, June 4, 1804]
June 4th Monday 1804 a fair day three men out on the right flank passed a
large Island on the St. Side Called Seeder Island, this Isd. has a great
Deel of Ceedar on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 ms. 15 yd. Wide which we
named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that discription which Sang for us
all last night, and is the first of the Kind I ever heard. passed the
mouth of Seeder Creek at 7 ms. on the S. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide above Some
Small Isds. passed a Creek on the L. S. abt. 15 yds. wide. Mast Creek,
here the Sergt. at the helm run under a bending Tree & broke the mast,
Some delightful) Land, with a jentle assent about the Creek, well
timbered, Oake, Ash, walnut &c. &c. passed, wind N W. by W. passed
a Small Creek Called Zan Can C on the L. S; at this last point I got out
and walked on the L. Sd. thro a rush bottom for 1 Miles & a Short
Distance thro Nettles as high as my brest assended a hill of about 170
foot to a place where the french report that Lead ore has been found, I
saw no mineral of that description, Capt Lewis Camped imediately under
this hill, to wate which gave me Some time to examine the hill, on the top
is a moun of about 6 foot high and about 100 Acres of land which the large
timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting lime Stone rock
under which is a Cave at one place in this projecting rocks I went on one
which Spured up and hung over the Water from the top of this rock I had a
prospect of the river for 20 or 30 ms. up, from the Cave which incumposed
the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot, a verry bad part of the
river opposit this hill, the river Continu to fall Slowly, our hunters
killed 7 Deer to day The land our hunters passed thro to day on the S. S.
was Verry fine the latter part of to day. the high land on the S. S. is
about 2d rate
[Clark, June 5, 1804]
June 5th Tuesday, Jurked the Vennison Killed yesterday, after Seting over
the Scouting Party or hunder of 3 men Set out at 6 oClock Course N 57° W
to a pt. on S. Sd. 5 ms. passed a Creek on L. Sd. I call Lead C of 15 yds
passed one on the S. Called Lit. good-womans Creek about 20 yds. wide
Passed a Willow Isd. a Butifull Prarie approaching near the river above
Lead C & extends to the Mine river in a westerly Derection, passed the
Mouth of the Creek of the Big Rock 15 yds Wide at 4 ms. on the Lbd Sd. at
11 oClock brought a Caissie in which was 2 men, from 80 League up the
Kansias River, where they wintered and caught a great qty of Beever but
unfortunatey lost it by the burning of the plains, the Kansas Nation
hunted on the Missourie last Winter and are now persueing the Buffalow in
the Plains, passed a Projecting Rock called the Manitou a Painting from
this Deavel to the Pt. on the Lbd Side N 23° W 71/2 Ms. The Same course
21/2 ms. Creek Cld. Manitou passed a on the Lbd. Side about 40 yd. wide, a
Sand bar in the middle of the River passed up between the Sand & L.
Shore one Mile to a Small Creek 10 yd. wide, (I call Sand C). We run on
the Sand and was obliged to return to the Starbd Side, I am verry unwell
with a Slight feever from a bad cold caught three days ago at the Grand so
R — passed a Small Willow Isd. on S. Side, a large one in the Middle
of the river, York Swam to the Isd. to pick greens, and Swam back with his
greens, the Boat Drew too much water to cross the quick Sands which
intervened, She draws 4 foot water, a fair wind our mast being broke by
accidence provented our takeing the advantage of it passed the lower point
of a large Island, opposit the Current devides between 4 Small Isds on the
St Side. we found the water excessively hard for 12 Miles as we were
oblged to pass up the center of the Current between two of the Isds. &
round the heads of the other 2 the Current Setting imediately against the
points which was choked up with Drift for a mile — Above those Isd. on
the St. Side we camped altogether our Hunter or Spis discovered the sign
of a war party of abt. 10 Men
[Clark, June 5, 1804]
June 5th Tuesday 1804 after Jurking the meet Killed yesterday and Crossing
the hunting party we Set out at 6 oClock, from the last Course &
distance, N 51° W. 5 ms. to a pt. on the St. Sd. passed a Small Creek on
the Ld. S. I call Lead C. passed a Creek on the S. S. of 20 yds. wide
Cald. Lit. Good Womans C. on the L. S. a Prarie extends from Lead C.
parrelel with the river to Mine river, at 4 ms. Passed the Creek of the
big rock about 15 yds. wide on the L. Sd. at 11 oClock brought too a Small
Caissee in which was two french men, from 80 Leagues up the Kansias R.
where they wintered, and Cought a great quantity of Beaver, the greater
part of which they lost by fire from the Praries, those men inform that
the Kansas Nation are now out in the plains hunting Buffalow, they hunted
last winter on this river Passed a projecting rock on which was painted a
figue and a Creek at 2 ms. above Called Little Manitou Creek from the
Painted rock this Creek 20 yds. wide on the L. Sd. passed a Small Creek on
L. S. opposit a Verry bad Sand bar of Several ms. in extent, which we
named Sand C here my Servent York Swam to the Sand bar to geather greens
for our Dinner and returnd with a Sufficent quantity wild Creases or Teng
grass, we passed up for 2 ms on the L. S. of this Sand and was obliged to
return, the Watr. uncertain the quick Sand Moveing we had a fine wind, but
could not make use of it, our Mast being broke, we passed between 2 Small
Islands in the Middle of the Current, & round the head of three a
rapid Current for one mile and Camped on the S. S. opsd. a large Island in
the middle of the river; one Perogue did not get up for two hours, our
Scout discovd. the fresh sign of about 10 Inds. I expect that those
Indians are on their way to war against the Osages nation probably they
are the Saukees
[Clark, June 6, 1804]
Wednesday the 6th of June 1804. Mended our mast this morning and Set out
at 7 oClock, under a Jentle Braise from the S, E by S N 28° W 31/2 miles
to a hill on St Sd. passg the N. beige of the Island Called Split rock
Island, the river rose last night a foot the Countrey about this Isd. is
delightfull large rush bottom of rushes below on the St. Side N 49° W,
11/2 Ms. to the mouth of Split rock River ____ yds. wide on the Starboard
Side opod. the pt. of a Isd. passed a place in the projecting rock Called
the hole thro the rock, a round Cave pass thro the Pt. of rock's West 11/2
ms. to a pt. on Std. Sd. opposit a Clift of rocks abt 200 foot N 31° W. 4
ms 1/2 to a pt. on L. Side passed Saline Creek on the L. Side a large Salt
Lick & Spring 9 me. up the Creek, one bushel of water will make 7 lb.
of good Salt
(Information) Took Meridian altitude of sun Limb. 37° 6' 0" equat to ____
of Lattidude.
on this Creek, So great a no of Salt Springs are on it that the water is
brackish N 51° W to a Belge of an Isd on the S. Sd. at 3 ms. Passed a
Willow Isd. in Middle, Some wind in the after part of to day from the S E,
(the Banks are falling in greatly in this part of the river) as also is
one Side or the other in all the Course, we assended on the North Side of
the Isd. and finding that the perogues Could not Keep up Camped 2 hs. by
Sun. on the Sd Sd the land below this is good.
[Clark, June 6, 1804]
June 6th Wednesday 1804 Mended our Mast this morning &, Set out at 7
oClock under a jentle breise from S. E. by S passed the large Island, and
a Creek Called Split rock Creek at 5 ms. on the S. S. psd. a place to the
rock from which 20 yds we. this Creek takes its name, a projecting rock
with a hole thro a point of the rock, at 8 ms. passed the mouth of a Creek
Called Saline or Salt R on the L. Sd. this River is about 30 yds. wide,
and has So many Licks & Salt Springs on its banks that the Water of
the Creek is Brackish, one Verry large Lick is 9 ms. up on the left Side
the water of the Spring in this Lick is Strong as one bushel of the water
is said to make 7 lb. of good Salt passed a large Isd. & Several Small
ones, the water excessivly Strong, So much So that we Camped Sooner than
the usial time to waite for the pirogue, The banks are falling in Verry
much to day river rose last night a foot.
Capt. Lewis took meridean altd. of Suns U. L. with the octant above Split
Rock C. &made the altitude 37° 6' 00 error of octt. as useal 2° 0' 0"
+ The Countrey for Several miles below is good, on the top of the high
land back is also tolerable land Some buffalow Sign to day
I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake
[Clark, June 7, 1804]
Thursday 7th of June 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Isd from
the Isd. N. 61° W. to the mouth of a Creek Called big monitu on St. Sd.
41/2 ms. psd. a Sand bar in the river, Som Buffalow Sign Sent out George
Drewyer & Newmon to hunt Capt Lewis and 6 men went to a Lick up this
Creek on the right Side over 2 mes. & 2 other not far above the water
runs out of the bank & not verry Strong. 3 to 500 G for a bushell.
S 88° W. 2 Miles to a pt. on Lbd. Side, high bluff on the Stbd. Side,
Monitou Creek is 30 yds. Wide at the mouth, passed a painted part of a
Projecting rock we found ther a Den of rattle Snakes, Killed 3 proceeded
on passed, S 81°W 4 ms. to apt. on S. Side passed an Island in the Middle
of the river, S. 87° W. to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. pass'g over the
Middle of a willow Island, ms. 31/2 proceed on 1/2 a mile on this Course a
Camped at the mouth of Good womans river on the S. S. about 35 yds wide,
& navagable Som D. our hunters brought in 3 bear this evening-&
infd. that the Countrey between this R. & the Monitou R is rich and
well watered, Capt. Lewis went out an hour this evening
[Clark, June 7, 1804]
June 7th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Island opposit
which we Camped last night, and brackfast at the Mouth of a large Creek on
the S. S. Of 30 yds wide Called big Monetou, from the pt. of the Isd. or
Course of last night to the mouth of this Creek is N 61° W 41/2 ms. a
Short distance above the mouth of this Creek, is Several Courious
Paintings and Carveing in the projecting rock of Limestone inlade with
white red & blue flint, of a verry good quallity, the Indians have
taken of this flint great quantities. We landed at this Inscription and
found it a Den of rattle Snakes, we had not landed 3 minutes before three
verry large Snakes wer observed on the Crevises of the rocks & Killed — at
the mouth of the last mentioned Creek Capt. Lewis took four or five men
& went to Some Licks or Springs of Salt water from two to four miles
up the Creek on Rt. Side the water of those Springs are not Strong, Say
from 4 to 600 Gs. of water for a Bushel of Salt passed Some Small willow
Islands and Camped at the Mouth of a Small river called Good Womans River
this river is about 35 yards wide and Said to be navagable for Perogues
Several Leagues Capt. Lewis with 2 men went up the Creek a Short distance.
our Hunters brought in three Bear this evening, and informs that the
Countrey thro which they passed from the last Creek is fine rich land,
& well watered.
[Clark, June 8, 1804]
June 8th Friday Set out at Daylight proceeded on the Course of last night
S 87° W 3 ms passed a Willow Island, from the Point of last Course S 81°
W. 3 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passd a ____ Isd. in the middle of the river,
passd a run on the Ld S. above a pt. of rocks 3 ms. on which thir is a
number of Deer Licks, N 88° W. 3 Ms. to a pt L S. N. 83° W 2 ms. to the Mo
of Mine River, psd an Isd. — This river is 90 yards wide &
navagable for Perogues about 90 Ms. I went out on the L S. about 4 ms.
below this R. and found the Countrey for one mile back good Land and well
watered the hills not high with a gentle assent from the river, well
timbered with oake, walnit Hickory ash, &c. the land Still further
back becoms thin and open, with Black & rasp Berries, and Still
further back the Plains Commence, The french inform that Lead ore is found
on this river in Several places, it heads up between the Osagees &
Kansas River the right hand folk passes in a Short distance of the
Missourie at the antient Little Ozages Villages our hunter Killed, 2 Deer,
after Staying one hour at the mouth of this River, Cap Lewis went out
& proceeded on one Mile & came in, he fount the land in the point
high and fine Course N. 64° W 1 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. N. 80° W to the
Lower pot a Id. on L. S. passed a Small Isd. in the m. R. at (3 Ms.) met 3
men on a Caussee from R Dis Soux, above The Mahar Nation loaded with fur.
Camped on the Lower point of an Id. L. S. called the Mills, here I found
Kegs an Pummey stone, and a place that fur or Skins had been burred by the
hunters our Hunters Killed 5 Deer, Some rain, the Countrey on the S. S. is
Verry fine
[Clark, June 8, 1804]
8th of June, Friday 1804 Set out this morning at Daylight proceeden on the
Course of last night Passed two willow Islands & a Small Creek above a
Rock point on the L. S. at 6 miles on which there is a number of Deer
Licks, passed the Mine River at 9 ms. this river is about 70 yards wide at
its mouth and is Said to be navagable for Perogues 80 or 90 ms. the main
branch passes near the place where the Little osage Village formerly Stood
on the Missouries, & heads between the Osarge & Kansias Rivers,
the left hand fork head with nearer Branches of the Osage River, The
french inform that Lead Ore has been found in defferent parts of this
river, I took Sjt. Floyd and went out 4 Ms. below this river, I found the
land Verry good for a Mile or 11/2 Ms. back and Sufficiently watered with
Small Streams which lost themselves in the Missouries bottom, the Land
rose gradeuelly from the river to the Summit of the high Countrey which is
not more that 120 foot above High Water mark, we joined the Boat &
Dined in the point above the mouth of this River, Capt. Lewis went out
above the river & proceeded on one mile, finding the Countrey rich,
the wedes & Vines So thick & high he came to the Boat — proceeded
on passed an Island and Camped at the lower point of an Island on the L.
S. Called the Island of mills about 4 ms. above Mine River at this place I
found Kanteens, Axs, Pumey Stone & peltrey hid & buried (I suppose
by some hunters) none of them (except the pumey Stone) was teched by one
of our party, our hunters Killed 5 Deer to day, Commenced raining Soon
after we Came too which prevented the party Cooking their provisions- our
Spies inform that the Countrey they passed thro on S. S. is a fine high
bottom, no water.
This day we met 3 men on a Cajaux from the River of the Soux above the
Mahar nation those men had been hunting 12 mo. & made about 900$ in
pelts. & furs they were out of Provesions and out of Powder. rained
this night
[Clark, June 9, 1804]
9th of June Satterday Set out early, water verry Swift got fast on a log,
detained us 1/4 hour Hard rain last night. N 39° W 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on
the S. S. opposit the Commencement of the 1st Prarie, Called Prarie of the
Arrows,1 the river at this place about 300 yds. Wide passed a Small Creek,
Arrow Creek 8 yds. wide L. Sd. the Current exceedingly Strong
N 34° E 2 ms. to the Belg of a Small Island Situated on the L. Sd. Passed
the mo. of Arrow Creek N 83°W 11/2 ms. to a pt on L. S. opposit Black bird
C Small passed the head of the Isd. & a small Willow one to the L. S.
(Os merdn. altd. back obsvn. 37 00' 00) N. 39° W 2 Ms. to a pt. of High
Land on the L. Side opst. a pt. on St. S. River about 350 yds. wide at
this pt. a Wind from the S at 4 oClock (Handson Sutn) on the High pt. a
prarie & Small Lake below N 32° E 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on L. S. passed an
Isld. in the mid R — in passing up on the S. S. opsd. the Isd. the
Sturn of the boat Struck a log which was not proceiveable the Curt. Struck
her bow and turn the boat against Some drift & Snags which below with
great force; This was a disagreeable and Dangerous Situation, particularly
as immense large trees were Drifting down and we lay imediately in their
Course, — Some of our men being prepared for all Situations leaped
into the water Swam ashore with a roap, and fixed themselves in Such
Situations, that the boat was off in a fiew minits, I can Say with
Confidence that our party is not inferior to any that was ever on the
waters of the Missoppie we Crossed to the Island and Camped, our hunters
lay on the S. S. the wind from the S. W. the river continue to rise Slowly
Current excessive rapid — The Countrey on the S. S. high bottom &
Delghtfull land that on the L. S. is up land or hills of from 50 to 100
foot higher than the bottom & a thinly wooded, Countrey, Lands
tolerably Good; Comminced raining at 5 oClock and continued by intervales
the greater part of the night. We discovered that one of our French hands
had a Conpt. — We Commsd Doctering, I hope the Success in this case,
usial to
[Clark, June 9, 1804]
9th of June 1804 Satturday a fair morning, the River rise a little we got
fast on a Snag Soon after we Set out which detained us a Short time passed
the upper Point of the Island Several Small Chanels running out of the
River below a Bluff & Prarie (Called the Prariee of Arrows) where the
river is confined within the width of 300 yds. Passed a Creek of 8 yds.
wide Called Creek of Arrows, this Creek is Short and heads in the Praries
on the L. S. passed a Small Creek Called Blackbird Creek S. S. and One
Islands below & a Prarie above on the L. S. a Small Lake above the
Prarie — opposit the Lower point of the 2d. Island on the S. S. we had
like to have Stove our boat, in going round a Snag her Stern Struck a log
under Water & She Swung round on the Snag, with her broad Side to the
Current expd. to the Drifting timber, by the active exertions of our party
we got her off in a fiew Mints. without engerey and Crossed to the Island
where we Campd. our hunters lay on the S. S. the Perogue Crossed without
Seeing them & the banks too uncertain to Send her over- Some wind from
the S accompanied with rain this evening — The Lands on the S. S. is a
high rich bottom the L. S. appears oven and of a good quallity runing
gradually to from fifty to 100 foot.
[Clark, June 10, 1804]
June 10th Sunday 1804 Some rain last night we set out early Saw a number
of Goslings this morning, Continued on the Course of last night, thence N.
8 E. 21/2 ms. to a pt. on the L. S. passed a part of the River that the
banks are falling in takeing with them large trees of Cotton woods which
is the Common groth in the Bottoms Subject to the flud North 1 Me along
the L. Side N. 40° W. 1 ms. along the L, S. opposit the two Charletons, on
the N. Side, those rivers mouth together, the 1st 40 yds. wide the next 90
yds. Wide and navagable Some distance in the Countrey, the land below is
high & not verry good. Came to and took Mdnl. altd. of Sons U. L. back
obsvn. with the octant Made it 37° 12' 00", delayed 11/2 Hour. N. 70° W
1/2 of a me. along the L. Sd. — S 60° W 1/2 m. on L. S. the Same
Course to the Pt. S. S. 11/2 Ms. We halted and Capt Lewis Killed a Buck
the Current is excessively Swift about this place N. 80° W. 3 ms to a pt.
on S. S. passed a Isd. Called Sheeco Islan wind from the N W Camped in a
Prarie on the L. S., Capt Lewis & my Self Walked out 3 ms. found the
Country roleing open & rich, with plenty of water, great qts of Deer I
discovered a Plumb which grows on bushes the hight of Hasle, those plumbs
are in great numbers, the bushes beare Verry full, about double the Sise
of the wild plumb Called the Osage Plumb & am told they are finely
flavoured.
[Clark, June 10, 1804]
10th of June 1804 A hard rain last night, we Set out this morning verry
early passed Some bad placies in the river Saw a number of Goslings
morning pass near a Bank which was falling in at the time we passed,
passed the two River of Charletons which mouth together, above Some high
land which has a great quantity of Stone Calculated for whetstons the
first of those rivers is about 30 yds. Wide & the other is 70 yds wd.
and heads Close to the R.
Dumoin The Aieways Nation have a Village on the head of these River they
run through an even Countrey and is navagable for Perogues Cap Lewis took
Medn. altd. of sun U. L with Octant, back obsvn. made it 37° 12' 00" — delayd
11/2 hours.
Capt. Lewis Killed a large Buck, passed a large Isd. called Shecco and
Camped in a Prarie on the L. S. I walked out three miles, found the prarie
composed of good Land and plenty of water roleing & interspursed with
points of timberd land, Those Praries are not like those, or a number of
those E. of the Mississippi Void of every thing except grass, they abound
with Hasel Grapes & a wild plumb of a Superior quallity, called the
Osages Plumb Grows on a bush the hight of a Hasel and hang in great
quantities on the bushes I Saw great numbers of Deer in the Praries, the
evening is Cloudy, our party in high Spirits.
[Clark, June 11, 1804]
11 June Monday — as the wind blew all this day from the N, W. which
was imedeately a head we Could not Stur, but took the advantage of the
Delay and Dried our wet articles examined provisons and Cleaned arms, my
Cold is yet verry bad — the river begining to fall our hunters killed
two Deer, G Drewry killed 2 Bear in the Prareie to day, men verry lively
Danceing & Singing &c.
[Clark, June 11, 1804]
11th June 1804 Monday The N W. wind blew hard & Cold as this wind was
imediately a head, we Could not proceed we took the advantage of this
Delay and Dried our wet articles examin'd Provisions &c. &c. the
river begining to fall the hunters killed two Deer G. Drewyer Killed two
Bear in the Prarie, they were not fat. we had the meat Jurked and also the
Venison, which is a Constant Practice to have all the fresh meat not used,
Dried in this way.
[Clark, June 12, 1804]
12th of June, Tuesday We Set out early, passed thro a verry bad bend N.
25° W. 31/2 to apt. L. S. N. 70° W. 21/2 ms to apt. on S. S. passed a Sand
bar-N 60° W 31/2 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passed Plumb. C at 1/2 a me. on L.
S. and halted to Dine, and 2 Caussease Came Down from the Soux nation, we
found in the party an old man who had been with the Soux 20 years &
had great influence with them, we provld. on this old man Mr. Duriaur to
return with us, with a view to get Some of the Soux Chiefs to go to the U.
S. purchased 300 lb. of Voyagers Grece @ 5$ Hd. made Some exchanges &
purchuses of Mockersons & found it Late & concluded to incamp.
Those people inform that no Indians are on the river, The Countrey on each
Side of the river is good
[Clark, June 12, 1804]
12th of June, Tuesday 1804 Set out early passed Some bad Placies, and a
Small Creek on the L. S. Called plumb Creek at abt. 1 me. at 1 oClock we
brought too two Chaussies one Loaded with furs & Pelteries, the other
with Greece buffalow grease & tallow We purchased 300 lb. of Greese,
and finding that old Mr. Durioun was of the party we questioned him untill
it was too late to Go further and Concluded to Camp for the night, those
people inform nothing of much information Colcluded to take old Durioun
back as fur as the Soux nation with a view to get some of their Chiefs to
Visit the Presdt.
of the United S. (This man being a verry Confidential friend of those
people, he having resided with the nation 20 odd years) and to accompany
them on
[Clark, June 13, 1804]
13th June Wednesday we Set out early passed a verry round bend to L. S.
passed two Creeks 1 me. apt. Called Creeks of the round Bend, between
those Creeks Stbd S. is a butifull Prarie, in which the antient Missourie
Indians had a Village, at this place 300 of them were killed by the
Saukees, a fair Day. Passed the antient Missouries villages on right
Course N 40° W 21/2 pt. L S., S 29° W 3 ms. pt. S. S., this nation once
the Most Noumerous is now almost extinct, about 30 of them, liveing with
Otteaus on the R. Platt, the remainder all distroyed, took altd. of S. U L
with qdt. which gave N 28 W. 11/2 ms to a pt. S. S. Passed some Charming
land, I have not Seen any high hils above Charliton and the hits below for
Several days Cannot to turmed hills but high Land, not exceeding 100 abov
the high water mark N 30° W, to a pt. L. S. 2 ms. passed a verry bad Sand
bar, where the boat was nearly turning & fastening in the quick Sand
and came too in the mouth of Grand R. S. S. this River is about 120 yards
wide and navigable for Purogues a great distance, it heads with the River
Dumoine, passing the river Carlton. a Butifull open Prarie Coms to the
river below its mouth, we landed and walked to the hills which is abt. 1/2
a mile. the Lower prarie over flows. the hunters Killd. a Bare & Dere,
this is a butifull place the Prarie rich & extinsive, Took Some Looner
Observations which Kept Cap L. & my Self up untill half past 11
oClock.
[Clark, June 13, 1804]
13th June Wednesday, 1804 We Set out early passed a round bend to the S.
S. and two Creeks Called the round bend Creeks between those two Creeks
and behind a Small willow Island in the bend is a Prarie in which the
Missouries Indians once lived and the Spot where 300 of them fell a
Sacrifise to the fury of the Saukees This nation (Missouries) once the
most noumerous nation in this part of the Continent now reduced to about
80 fes. and that fiew under the protection of the Otteaus on R Platt who
themselves are declineing passed Som willow Isds. and bad Sand bars, Twook
Medn. altitude with Octent back observation it gave for altd. on its Low L
36° 58' 0" the E Enstrement 2° 00' 00" +. the Hills or high land for
Several days past or above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot
passed a Batteau or Sand roleing where the Boat was nearly turning over by
her Strikeing & turning on the Sand. We came too in the Mouth of Grand
River on S. S. and Camped for the night, this River is from 80 to 100
yards wide at its Mouth and navagable for Perogues a great distance This
river heads with the R. Dumoine below its mouth is a butifull Plain of
bbttom land the hills rise at 1/2 a mile back
The lands about this place is either Plain or over flown bottom Capt Lewis
and my Self walked to the hill from the top of which we had a butifull
prospect of Serounding Countrey in the open Prarie we Caught a racoon, our
hunters brought in a Bear & Deer we took Some Luner observation this
evening.
[Clark, June 14, 1804]
14th June, Thursday We set out at 6 oClock after a thick fog proceeded on
verry well S. 33 W 2 Ms. to the lower pt of an Isld. S. S. S. 60° W. thro
a narrow 1 me channel to a Small prarie S. S. opposit this Isd. on L. L.
is a Butifull high Plain. from the Isd. S. 70'W. to a pt. L. S. 21/2 ms.
just below a piec of High Land on the S. S. Called the place of Snakes,
passed the worst place I have Seen on L. S. a Sand bar makeing out 2/3
Cross the river Sand Collecting &c forming Bars and Bars washg a way,
the boat Struck and turned, She was near oversetting we saved her by Some
extrodany exertions of our party (ever ready to inconture any fatigue for
the premotion of the enterpris), I went out to walk on the Sand Beech,
& Killed a Deer & Turky during the time I was from the boat a
Caussee came too from the Pania nation loaded with furs We gave them Some
whiskey and Tobacco & Settled Some desputes & parted S. 5 E. 3 ms.
to pt. on S. S. passed a Creek S. S. 25 yds. wd. Called Snake Creek or
(____) passed a bad Sand bar S. S. in passing which we were obliged to run
great Sesque of Loseing both Boat & men, Camped above, G. Drewyer tels
of a remarkable Snake inhabiting a Small lake 5 ms. below which gobbles
like a Turkey & may be herd Several miles, This Snake is of Size.
[Clark, June 14, 1804]
14th, June Thursday we Set out at 6 oClock, after a thick fog passed thro
a narrow pass on the S. S. which forms a large Isd. opposit the upper
point of this Island on the L. S. is one of the worst quick or moveing
Sand bars which I have Seen not withstanding all our precaustons to Clear
the Sands & pass between them (which was the way we were Compd. to
pass from the immens Current & falling banks on the S. S.) the Boat
Struck the point of one from the active exertions of the men, prevented
her turning, if She had turned She must have overset. we met a Causseu
from the Pania on the River Platt, we detained 2 hours with a view of
engageing one of the hands to go to the Pania nation with a View to get
those people to meet us on the river. I went out (Shot a Deer) we passd a
highland &clay bluff on the S. S. Called the Snake bluff from the
number of Snakes about this place, we passd a Creek above the Bluff about
18 yds. wide, This Creek is Called Snake Creek, a bad Sand bar Just below
which we found difficuelty in passing & Campd above, our Hunters Came
in. George Drewyer, gives the following act. of a Pond, & at abt. 5
miles below the S. S. Passed a Small Lake in which there was many Deer
feeding he heard in this Pond a Snake makeing Goubleing Noises like a
turkey. he fired his gun & the noise was increased, he has heard the
indians Mention This Species of Snake one Frenchman give a Similar account
[Clark, June 15, 1804]
15 June Friday 1804, we Set out early proceeded on about 1 me. and the
Boat turned on a Sawyer which was near doeing her great damage, the river
is riseing fast & the water exceedingly Swift, passd. a bad Sand bar
on which we Stuck for a Short time this is Said to be the worst part of
the river and Camped opsd. the bend in which the Antient Villages of the
little Osarge & Missouries, the lower or first of those villagies (L.
Osages) is Situated in Butifull Plain at the foot of Some riseing land, in
front of their Viliges next the river is a butifull bottom Plain in which
they raised their Corn &c. back of the Village the high Prarie extends
back to the Osarge River, about 3 Ms. above & in view the Missouries
Nation resided under the protection of the Osarges, after their nation was
riducd by the Saukees below, thos built their Village in the Same low
Prarie and lived there many years, the war was So hot & both nations
becom So reduced that the Little Osage & a fiew of the Missoures moved
& built a village 5 ms near the Grand Osage, the rest of the Missoures
went and took protection under the Otteaus on Platt river
[Clark, June 15, 1804]
15th, June, Friday 1804 Set out early and had not proceeded far e'er we
wheeled on a Sawyer which was near injuring us Verry much, passed a plain
on the L. S. a Small Isd. in the midle the river riseing, water verry
Swift Passed a Creek on the L. S. passed between two Islands, a verry bad
place, Moveing Sands, we were nearly being Swallowed up by the roleing
Sands over which the Current was So Strong that we Could not Stem it with
our Sales under a Stiff breese in addition to our ores, we were Compelled
to pass under a bank which was falling in, and use the Toe rope
occasionally, Continued up pass two other Small Islands and Camped on the
S. S. Nearly opposit the Antient Village of the Little Osarges and below
the Antt. Village of the Missoures both Situations in view an within three
Ms. of each other, the Osage were Settled at the foot a hill in a butifell
Plain which extends back quite to the Osage River, in front of the Vilg.
Next to the river is an ellegent bottom Plain which extends Several miles
in length on the river in this low Prarie the Missouries lived after They
were reduced by the Saukees at Their Town Some Dists. below. The little
osage finding themselves much oppressed by the Saukees & other
nations, left this place & built a village 5 ms. from the Grand Osarge
Town about ____ years ago. a few of the Missoures accompanied them, the
remainder of that nation went to the Otteaus on the River Platt. The River
at this place is about 1 ms. wide our hunters did not Come in this evening
the river beginning to fall
[Clark, June 16, 1804]
16th June Satterday Set out at 7 oClock Proceed on N. 68°W. 21/2 ms.
passed a Isd. close on the S. S. at the lower point Drewer & Willard
had camped & had with them 2 bear & 2 Deer we took in the meat
& proceeded on. Some rain this morning West 2 Ms. pass an Isd on S. S.
& prarie, to a Belge of Snag Isd. L. S. a butifull extensive Prarie on
S. S. Hills to about 9 ms. distant. Mr. Mackey has Laid down the rems. of
an old fort in this Prarie, which I cannot find S 85 W. 1 me. along the
Isd. L. S. — S 61° W alg L. S. 1 me. S 30° W, 3, ms. to pt. S. S.
opsd. an Isd. & head of the last S 40° W 1 me. S. S. Passed a verry
bad place where the Sand was moving constantly, I walked on Shore obsd.
fine high Bottom land on S. S. Camped late this evening.
[Clark, June 16, 1804]
16th, June Satturday 1804 Set out at 7 oClock at about a mile 1/2 we Came
to the Camp of our hunters, they had two Bear & two Deer proceeded on
pass a Island on the S. S. a heavy rain came on & lasted a Short time,
we came to on the S. S. in a Prarie at the place where Mr. Mackey lay down
a old french fort, I could See no traces of a Settlement of any Kind, in
this plain I discovered a Kind of Grass resembling Timothey which appeared
well calculated for Hay, this Plain is verry extensive in the evening I
walked on the S. S. to see if any timber was Convt. to make Oars, which we
were much in want of, I found Som indifferent timber and Struck the river
above the Boat at a bad Sand bar the worst I had Seen which the boat must
pass or Drop back Several Miles & Stem a Swift Current on the opsd
Side of an Isd. the Boat however assended the middle of the Streem which
was diffucult Dangerious We Came to above this place at Dark and Camped in
a bad place, the misquitoes and Ticks are noumerous & bad.
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17 1804 Rope walk Camp The Current of the River at this place is a
Stick will float 48 poles 6 feet in the rapidest part in 23 Seconds,
further out is 34, Still further 65 — 74 — 78 — & 82 are the
Trials we have made.
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17 Sunday 1804 Cloudy Wind, S. E. Set out early S. 65° W 1 Me. Came
too to Make ores, and a Cord for a Toe Rope all this day imployed in
getting out Ores, & makeing for the use of the Boat out of a large
Cable rope which we have, G Drewyer Came up a Bear & 2 Deer, also a
fine horse which he found in the woods, Supposed to have been left by Some
war party from the osages, The Ticks are numerous and large and have been
trousom all the way and the Musquetors are beginning to be verry
troublesome, my Cold Continues verry bad the French higherlins Complain
for the want of Provisions, Saying they are accustomed to eat 5 & 6
times a day, they are roughly rebuked for their presumption, the Country
about abounds in Bear Deer & Elk and the S. S. the lands are well
timbered and rich for 2 ms. to a butifull Prarie which risies into hills
At 8 or 9 ms. back — on the L. S a Prarie coms. on the bank which is
high and contines back rich & well watered as far
[Clark, June 17, 1804]
June 17th Sunday 1804 (S. 65°W. me. S. Side-) Cloudy morning wind from the
S. E. we Set out early and proceeded on one mile & came too to make
oars, & repair our Cable & toe rope &c. &c. which was
necessary for the Boat & Perogues, Sent out Sjt. Pryor and Some men to
get ash timber for ores, and Set Some men to make a Toe Rope out of the
Cords of a Cable which had been provided by Capt Lewis at Pitts burg for
the Cable of the boat — George Drewyer our hunter and one man came in
with 2 Deer & a Bear, also a young Horse, they had found in the
Prarie, this horse has been in the Prarie a long time and is fat, I
suppose he has been left by Some war party against the Osage, This is a
Crossing place for the war partis against that nation from the Saukees,
Aiaouez, & Souix. The party is much aflicted with Boils and Several
have the Decissentary, which I contribute to the water
The Countrey about this place is butifull on the river rich & well
timbered on the S. S. about two miles back a Prarie coms. which is rich
and interspursud with groves of timber, the County rises at 7 or 8 miles
Still further back and is roleing — on the L. S. the high lands &
Prarie Corns. in the bank of the river and Continus back, well watered and
abounds in Der Elk & Bear The Ticks & Musquetors are verry
troublesom.
[Clark, June 18, 1804]
June 18th Monday Some raind last night, Sent out 6 Hunters to day across
the R. they Killed 5 Deer & Colter a Bear verry fat we continue to
repare our ropes & make oars all day, heavy rain all the fore pt. of
the day, the party Drying meat & greesing themselves, Several men with
the Disentary, and two thirds of them with ulsers or Boils, Some with 8 or
10 of those Turners Mesquetors verry bad we finish our Cords & oars
this evening Men in Spirits
[Clark, June 18, 1804]
June 18th Monday Some rain last night, and Some hard Showers this morning
which delay our work verry much, Send out Six hunters in the Prarie on the
L S. they kill 5 Deer & Coltr a Bear, which verry large & fat, the
party to wok at the oars, make rope, & jurk their meat all Day Dry our
wet Sales &c. in the evening, The misquiter verry bad
[Clark, June 19, 1804]
June 19th Tuesday rain last night after fixing the new Oars and makeing
all necessary arrangements, we Set out under a jentle breese from the S.
E. and proceeded on passed two large Islands on the S. S. leaving J.
Shields and one man to go by land with the horses Some verry hard water,
passed Several Islands & Sand bars to day at the head of one we were
obliged to cleare away Driftwood to pass, passed a Creek on the L. Side
Called Tabboe 15 yds. wide passed a large Creek at the head of an Island
Called Tiger River on the S. S. The Island below this Isd. is large and
Called the Isle Of Panters, formed on the S. S. by a narrow Channel, I
observed on the Shore Goose & Rasp berries in abundance in passing
Some hard water round a Point of rocks on the L. S. we were obliged to
take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we Came too on
the L. S. near a Lake of the Sircumfrance of Several miles Situated on the
L. S. about two miles from the river this Lake is Said to abound in all
kinds of fowls, great quanties of Deer frequent this Lake dureing Summer
Season, and feed on the hows &c. &c. they find on the edgers the
Lands on the North Side of the river is rich and Sufficiently high to
afford Settlements, the Lds. on the South Side assends Gradually from the
river not So rich, but of a good quallity and appear well watered
[Clark, June 20, 1804]
June 20th, Wednesday Set out after a heavy Shower of rain and proceeded on
the Same Course of last night passed a large butifull Prarie on the S. S.
opposit a large Island, Calld Saukee Prarie, a gentle breese from the S.
W. Some butiful high lands on the L. S. passed Som verry Swift water to
day, I saw Pelicans to day on a Sand bar, my servant York nearly loseing
an eye by a man throwing Sand into it, we came too at the lower Point of a
Small Island, the party on Shore we have not Seen Since we passed Tiger R — The
Land appeard verry good on each Side of the River to day and well
timbered, we took Some Loner observations, which detained us untill 1
oClock a butifull night but the air exceedingly Damp, & the mosquiters
verry troublesom
[Clark, June 21, 1804]
21st June Thursday 1804 river raised 3 Inches last night after our bow man
Peter Crousat a half Mahar Indian examined round this Small Isd. for the
best water, we Set out determined to assd. on the North Side, and
Sometimes rowing Poleing & Drawing up with a Strong Rope we assended
without wheeling or receving any damige more than breakeing one of my S.
Windows, and looseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows
Two men Sent out to hunt this afternoon Came in with a Deer, at Sun Set
The ellement had every appearance of wind, The hunters inform me that the
high Countrey on the S. S. is of a good quallity, and well timbd. The High
lands on the L. Side is equally good The bottom land on this river is
alike, 1st low and covd. with Cotton wood & willows Subject to over
flow the 2nd is higher groth Cotton Walnut ash Mulberry Linn &
Sycomore
[Clark, June 21, 1804]
21st June Thursday The river rose 3 Inches last night after the Bows man
Peter Crousat viewed The water on each Side of the Island which presented
a most unfavourable prospect of Swift water over roleing Sands which rored
like an immence falls, we Concluded to assend on the right Side, and with
much dificuilty, with the assistance of a long Cord or Tow rope, & the
anchor we got the Boat up with out any furthr dang. than Bracking a Cabbin
window & loseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows, passed
four Isds to day two large & two Small, behind the first large Island
two Creeks mouth Called (1) Eue-bert Creek & River & Isd. the
upper of those Creeks head against the Mine River & is large, passed a
verry remarkable bend in the River to the S. forming an accute angle, the
high lands come to the river on the S. S. opposit the upper large Island,
this Isd. is formed by a narrow chanel thro. the Pt. of the remarkable
bend just mentiond below this Isd. on the L. S. is a Couenter Current of
about a mile — passed between Several Small Islands Situated near the
L. Side and camped above on the Same Side, Two men Sent out to hunt this
evening brought in a Buck & a pore Turkey.
at Sun Set the atmespier presented every appearance of wind, Blue &
white Streeks Centering at the Sun as She disappeared and the Clouds
Situated to the S. W, Guilded in the most butifull manner. The Countrey
and Lands on each Side of the river is various as usial and may be classed
as follows. viz: the low or over flown points or bottom land, of the groth
of Cotton & Willow, the 2nd or high bottom of rich furtile Soils of
the groth of Cotton, Walnut, Som ash, Hack berry, Mulberry, Lynn &
Sycamore. the third or high Lands risees gradually from the 2nd bottom
(cauht whin it Coms to the river then from the river) about 80 or 100 foot
roleing back Supplied with water the Small runs of (which losees
themselves in the bottom land) and are covered with a variety of timber
Such as Oake of different Kinds Blue ash, walnut &c. &c. as far as
the Praries, which I am informed lie back from the river at some places
near & others a great Distance
[Clark, June 22, 1804]
22nd June Friday after a Violent gust of wind accompanied with rain from
the West, which commenced at Day brake, and lasted about one hour, we Set
out under a gentle Breeze from the N W. and proceeded on S. 14°W. 21/2 ms.
to pt. on L. S. Ord Killed a goose, S 25 W 3 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd.
Snags and Swift water on the S. S. — S. 66° W. 1/2 a me. on S pt. N 60
W 41/2 me. to pt. L. S. passed a large Isd. on the S. S. (Ferenthiers
Thermometr at 3 oClock P.M. 87 d which is 11 d above Summr heat) and one
on the L. S. opposit against which there is a handsom Prarie of high
Bottom & up Land, Capt Lewis went out in this Prarie & walked
Several miles, Come to opposit the mouth of a large Creek on the S. S.
Called River of the Fire Prarie at the mouth of this creek the party on
Shore Shields & Collins was camped waiting for our arrival &
inform that they Pass'd thro Some fine Lands, and well watered G D. Killed
a fine Bear to day
[Clark, June 22, 1804]
22nd June Friday river rose 4 Inchs last night. I was waken'd before day
light this morning by the guard prepareing the boat to receve an apparent
Storm which threttened violence from the West at day light a violent wind
accompanied with rain cam from the W. and lasted about one hour, it
Cleared away, and we Set out and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from
the N. W. passed Some verry Swift water Crouded with Snags, pass two large
Island opposit each other, and immediately opposit a large & extensive
Prarie on the Labd Side, This Prarie is butifull a high bottom for 11/2 a
mile back and risees to the Common leavel of the Countrey about 70 or 80
feet and extends back out of view. Capt. L walked on Shore a few miles
this after noon (at 3 oClock P M. Ferents Thermometer Stood at 87°: = to
11 d above Summer heat) we came to on the L. Side opposit the mouth of a
large Creek Called the River of the Fire Prarie, at the mouth of this
Creek the Party on Shore were waiting our arrival, they informed that the
Lands thro which they passed was fine & well watered
[Clark, June 23, 1804]
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N W. Set out at 7 oC
Proceeded on N. 70 d. W 2 Ms. to an Isd. Close on the S. S. I went on
Shore & walked up thro a rich bottom for about Six miles, Killed a
Deer & much fatigued N. 75 E. to a point in a bend L. S. 11/2 the
river fell 8 Inches last night.
[Clark, June 23, 1804]
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N. W. we Set out at 7
oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the S. S. the wind
blew hard and down the river which prevented the Pty moveing from this
Island the whole day, Cap. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the
lower end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, &
expected the party on Shore would overtake me at the head of the Island,
they did not & I proceeded on round a round and extensive bend in the
river, I Killed a Deer & made a fire expecting the boat would Come up
in the evening. the wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as
the distance by land was too great for me to return by night I concluded
to Camp, Peeled Some bark to lay on, and geathered wood to make fires to
Keep off the musquitor & Knats. Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark
Drewyer came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell
8 Inches last night
[Lewis and Clark, June 24, 1804]
Sunday June 24th set out at 1/2 after six continuing the course on the
Lard. side N. 80 E 1/4 of a mile to point Lard. N. 551/4 of a mile to
point Lard. Due west to a point Stard 3 miles good water
(I joined the Boat theis morning with a fat Bear & two Deer, last
evining I Struck the river about 6 miles (by land) abov the Boat, and
finding it too late to get to the Boat, and the wind blowing So hard Down
the river that She could not assend, I concluded to Camp, altho I had
nothing but my hunting Dress, & the Musquitors Ticks & Knats verry
troublesom, I concid to hunt on a Willow Isd. Situated close under the
Shore, in Crossing from an Island, I got mired, and was obliged to Craul
oat, a disegreeable Situation & a Diverting one of any one who Could
have Seen me after I got out, all Covered with mud, I went my Camp &
Craped off the Mud and washed my Clothes, and fired off my gun which was
answered by George Drewyer who was in persute of me & came up at Dark
we feasted of meet & water the latter we made great use of being much
fatigued & thirsty — The meet which hung up near the water a large
Snake made Several attempts to get to it and was so Detirmined that I
Killed him in his attempt, the Snake appeared to make to that part of the
meet which Contained the milk of a Doe, On this part of the River I
observe great quantites of Bear Sign, they are after Mulbiries which are
in great quantities)
N 85 d W. 41/2 ms. to a pt. on L Side, Came to above the mouth of a Creek
on the L. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide Called Hay Cabbin Creek Latd. of this place
is 38° 37'5" North — Capt. Lewis took Sergt. Floyd and walked on
Shore, George Drewyer Killed 2 Deer R Fields Killed a Deer dureing the
time we wer Jurking the meet I brought in, West 1/2 ml. along the L. S.
S 21° W. 3 ms. to a pt. on the S. S. pass 2 Creek on the S. S. just above
Some rocks Some distance from Shore 1 of These Creek is Called
Sharriton-Cartie, a Prarie on the L. S. near the river. Capt Lewis Killed
a Deer, & Collins 3. emince number of Deer on both Sides of the river,
we pass between two Sand bars at head of which we had to raise the boat 8
Inch to get her over, Camped at the Lower point of a Isd. on the L S. the
Party in high Spirits.
[Clark, June 24, 1804]
24th, June Sunday Set out at half after Six. I joined the boat this morng
at 8 oClock (I will only remark that dureing the time I lay on the band
waiting for the boat, a large Snake Swam to the bank imediately under the
Deer which was hanging over the water, and no great distance from it, I
threw chunks and drove this Snake off Several times. I found that he was
So determined on getting to the meet I was Compelld to Kill him, the part
of the Deer which attracted this Snake I think was the milk from the bag
of the Doe.) I observed great quts. of Bear Signs, where they had passed
in all Directions thro the bottoms in Serch of Mulberries, which were in
great numbers in all the bottoms thro which our party passed.)
Passed the mouth of a Creek 20 yds. wide name Hay Cabbin Creek from camps
of Straw built on it came to about 1/2 me. above this Creek & jurked,
the meet killed yesterday and this morning Lattitude of this place 38° 37'
5" N. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & Killed a Deer, pass a bad part of
the river, on the S. S. the rocks projected into the river Some distance,
a Creek above Called Sharston Carta, in the evening we Passed thro betwen
two Sand bars at the head we had to raise the Boat 8 Inches together over,
Camped near the lower point of an Island on the L. Side, party in high
Spirrits. The Countrey on each Side of the river is fine interspersed with
Praries, in which imence herds of Deer is Seen, on the banks of the river
we observe numbers of Deer watering and feeding on the young willow,
Several Killed to day
[Clark, June 25, 1804]
Monday June 25th a heavy fog Detaind us about an hour Set out passed the
Isd on a course from the last point S 49° W, 3 Ms to a point on the S. S.
S 55° W 1/2 Me. S. S. a Coal-Bank on the opposit or L. S Side, this bank
appears to Contain great quantity of excellente CoaL the wind from the N.
W a Small Creek Called Coal or (Chabonea)3 N 50° W to the Pt, L. S. 31/2
Miles Hard water & logs, Bank falling in, Passed a Small Creek L. S.
Called Labeenie a Prarie is Situated on the S. S. a Short Distance from
the river, which contains great quantities of wild apples of the Size of
the Common apple, the French Say is well flavered when ripe, which is the
time the leaves begin to fall N 70°W 1/2 me. along the right Side of a
Willow Isd. Situated on the L. Side S. 80° W 1/2 me. L. S. S 55° W. 1/2
me. to Pt. of Smal Isd. L. S. S 15° W 1/2 me. L. S. — S. 2° E 2 me. pt
on Lbd S. (here I will only remark that the Deer in the Morning &
evening are feeding in great numbers on the banks of the River, they feed
on young willow, and amuse themselves running on the open beeches or
points) We have hard water this afternoon round the heads of Small Islds.
on the L. Side below a Small High Prarie S. 48° W. 2 Ms. pt. S. S. passd.
a small Isd. on which we Camped The party on Shore did not join us to day,
or have we Seen or her of them river falling fast about 8 Inches in 24
hours, the Hills on the L. S. this evening higher than usial about 160 or
180 feet. the lands appear of a Simalier to those passed
[Clark, June 25, 1804]
25th, June Monday a thick fog detained us untile 8 oClock, passed a
Island, at 3 miles passed a Coal-mine, or Bank of Stone Coal, on the South
Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of fine Coal, the river
being high prevented our Seeeing that contained in the Cliffs of the best
quallity, a Small Creek mouth's below This bank Call'd after the bank
Chabonea Creek the Wind from the N. W. passed a Small Creek on the L. Side
at 12 oClock, Called Bennet's Creek The Praries Come within a Short
distance of the river on each Side which Contains in addition to Plumbs
Raspberries & vast quantities of wild apples, great numbs. of Deer are
seen feeding on the young willows & earbage in the Banks and on the
Sand bars in the river. our party on Shores did not join us this evening
we Camped on an Island Situated on the S. Side, opposit some hills higher
than Common, Say 160 or 180 feet above the Bottom. The river is Still
falling last night it fell 8 Inches
[Clark, June 26, 1804]
June 26th Tuesday 1804 we Set out early, the river falling a little, the
wind from the S. W. Passed the mouth of a Small river on the L. Side above
the upper point of a Small Island, Called Blue water river, this river
heads in Praries back with the Mine River about 30 yds. wide Lattitude of
a pt. 4 ms. above this river is 38° 32' 15" North, the high lands which is
on the Northe Side does not exceed 80 feet high, at this Place the river
appears to be Confd. in a verry narrow Channel, and the Current Still more
So by Couenter Current or Whirl on one Side & high bank on the other,
passed a Small Isd. in the bend to the L. Side we Killed a large rattle
Snake, Sunning himself in the bank passed a bad Sand bar, where our tow
rope broke twice, & with great exertions we rowed round it and Came to
& Camped in the Point above the Kansas River lobserved a great number
of Parrot queets this evening, our Party Killed Several 7 Deer to day
[Clark, June 27, 1804]
June 27th, Wednesday a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last
night. we determin to delay at this Place three or four Days to make
observations & recruit the party Several men out Hunting, unloaded one
Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view of repairing her after
Completeing a Strong redoubt or brest work frome one river to the other,
of logs & Bushes Six feet high, The Countrey about the mouth of this
river is verry fine on each Side as well as the North of the Missouries
the bottom, in the Point is low, & overflown for 250 yards. it rises a
little above high water mark and Continus up that hight of good quallity
back to the hills ____ A high Clift, on the upper Side of the Kansis 1/2 a
mile up below the Kanses the hills is about 11/2 miles from the point on
the North Side of the Missouries the Hill or high lands is Several miles
back, we compareed the instrmts Took equal altitudes, and the Meridian
altituade of the Suns L L to day Lattitude 38° 31' 13" Longitude ____
Measured The width of the Kansas River by an angle and made it 230 yds 1/4
wide, it is wider above the mouth the Missouries at this place is about
500 yards wide, The Course from the Point down the midle. of the Missourie
is S. 32° E, & turns to the North. up is N 21°W. up the right side of
the Kansas is S. 54° E, & the river turns to the left, Several Deer
Killed to day.
[Clark, June 28, 1804]
28 June Thursday took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. &
varaitian of the Compass repaired the Perogue Cleaned out the Boat Suned
our Powder wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs. out to day
in different direction, in examineing our private Store of Provisions we
found Several articles Spoiled from the wet or dampness they had received,
a verry warm Day, the wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised
yesterday last night & to day about 2 foot. this evening it is on a
Stand, Capt. Lewis weighed the water of the Two rivers The Missouris 78°
The Kansais 72° To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of
this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain to
insert here, it heads with the river Del Norid in the black Mountain or
ridge which Divides the waters of the Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado
& oppsoitly from those of the Missoureis (and not well assertaind)
This River recves its name from a nation which dwells at this time on its
banks & 2 villages one about 20 Leagues & the other 40 Leagues up,
those Indians are not verry noumerous at this time, reduced by war with
their neighbours, &c. they formerly liveid on the South banks of the
Missouries 24 Leagues above this river in a open & butifull plain and
were verry noumerous at the time the french first Settled the Illinois, I
am told they are a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with
fire arms, become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are
better furnished with those materials of war, This nation is now out in
the plains hunting the Buffalow our hunters Killed Several Deer and Saw
Buffalow, men impd Dressing Skins & makeing themselves Comfortable,
the high lands Coms to the river Kanses on the upper Side at about a mile,
full in view, and a butifull place for a fort, good landing place, the
waters of the Kansas is verry disigreeably tasted to me.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
29th of June 1804, Set out from the Kansas river 1/2 past 4 oClock,
proceeded on passed a Small run on the L. S. at 1/2 Mile a (1) Island on
the S. S. at 11/2 me. Hills above the upr. pt of Isd. L. S. a large Sand
bar in the middle. Passed a verry bad place of water, the Sturn of the
Boat Struck a moveing Sand & turned within 6 Inches of a large Sawyer,
if the Boat had Struck the Sawyer, her Bow must have been Knocked off
& in Course She must hav Sunk in the Deep water below Came to &
camped on the S. S. late in the eveninge.
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
29th June Friday obsvd. the distance of (D & )),took Equal &
maridinal altd. and after makeing Some arrangements, and inflicting a
little punishment to two men we Set out at 1/2 past 4 oClock and proceeded
on (i ) passed a large Island on the S. Side, opposit a large Sand bar,
the Boat turned and was within Six Inches of Strikeing the rapidity with
which the Boat turned was so great that if her bow had Struck the Snag,
She must have either turned over or the bow nocked off S W wind
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
Camp mouth of the Kanseis June 29th 1804. Ordered a Court martial will Set
this day at 11 oClock, to Consist of five members, for the trial of John
Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by
Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.
Detail for the Court
Sergt Nat. Pryor presd.
mbs: 2 John Colter 3 John Newmon 4 Pat. Gass 1 J. B. Thompson
John Potts to act as judge advocate.
The Court Convened agreeable to order and proceeded to the trial of the
Prisoners Viz John Collins Charged "with getting drunk on his post this
morning out of whiskey put under his Charge as a Sentinal and for
Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the Said Barrel intended for
the party"
To this Charge the prisoner plead not guilty.
The Court after mature deliveration on the evidence abduced &c. are of
oppinion that the prisoner is Guilty of the Charge exibited against him,
and do therefore Sentence him to recive one hundred Lashes on his bear
Back.
Hugh Hall was brought with "takeing whiskey out of a Keg this morning
which whiskey was Stored on the Bank (and under the Charge of the guard)
Contrary to all order, rule, or regulation"
To this Charge the prisoner "Pleades Guilty."
The Court find the prisoner guilty and Sentence him to receive fifty
Lashes on his bear Back.
The Commanding Officers approve of the Sentence of the Court and orders
that the Punishment take place at half past three this evening, at which
time the party will Parrade for inspection-
[Clark, June 29, 1804]
at the Mouth of the River Kansies June 26" 27" 28 & 29th- This river
is 366 miles above the mouth of Missouri it is in Lattitude 38° 31' 13"
North
it is 230 yds. wide at its mouth & wider above from the point up the
Missourie for about 3 ms. N. 21° W, Down the Middle of the Missourie is S.
32° E, up the upper bank of the Kansais, is S. 54° E the river turns to
the East above a pt. of high land, well Situated for a fort & in view
of the Missouris one mile up & on the upper Side, the width of the
Missouris at this place is about 500 yds.
Missourie Water weighs 78. The Kanseis weghs 72 river Miss raised in the
time at the Kanseis 2 foot and begun to fall.
The wood land on each side of the Mouth of this river is extensive and of
a good quallity as far as our hunters was back, but badly watered with
Springs, only two being Seen by them
Some punishment of two men Hall & Collins for takeing whiskey out of
the Barrel last night agreeable to the Sentences of a Court Mtl of the
party who we have always found verry ready to punish Such Crimes
Many Deer Killed to day
Allarm post or order of Battle arms to be Situated & the Duty &c.
Messes of men under a Serjiant who is to detail for every day one man of
his Squad to Cook &c. who Shall have the management of the provisions
dureing that day or issue, each Days rations must be divided &c. &c
Order of encampment, Tents, fires & Duty
[Clark, June 30, 1804]
30th June, Set out verry early this Morng Saw a verry large wolf on the
Sand bar this morning walking near a gange of Turkeys (1) at 10 miles
above the Kansis passed the mouth of a Small River Call the (Petite Plate)
or the little Shole river, this river is about 70 yds. Wide and has
Several rapids & falls, well Calculatd for mills, the land on this
river is Said to be Roaling, Killed 2 Deer Bucks Swinging the river the
wind from the S. W. here we opened the Bag of Bread given us by which we
found verry good, our Bacon which was given us by we examined and found
Sound and good Some of that purchased in the Illinois Spoiled, a relish of
this old bacon this morning was verry agreeable, Deer to be Seen in every
direction and their tracks ar as plenty as Hogs about a farm, our hunts.
Killed 9 Deer to day the land below the last river is good, that above,
between the two rivers which is near together is Slaik'y and bad on the N.
Side, the other Side is good land, Landed on the L. S. below an Isd called
Dimond Island
[Clark, June 30, 1804]
30th June Satturday 1804 Set out verry early this morning, a verry large
wolf Came to the bank and looked at us this morning, passd the (1) mouth
of a Small river 10 ms. above the Kanseis Called by the french Petite
River Platte (or Shoal river) from the number of falls in it, this river
is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and runs Parrilel with the Missouries
for ten or twelve miles, I am told that the lands on this Small river is
good, and on its Several falls well Calculated for mills, the wind from S.
W. came to at 12 oClock & rested three hours, the... being hot the men
becom verry feeble, Farnsts. Thermometer at 3 oClock Stood at 96° above 0,
emence numbs. of Deer on the banks, Skipping in every derection, the party
Killed nine Bucks on the river & Bank to day, The Countrey on the S.
S. between the Shoal River & Missouris is indifferent Subject to
overflow, that below and on the L. S. is high & appers well timbered,
Camped on the L. S. opsd. the Lower point of a Isd. Called diamond Island,
Broke our mast
[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st 1804, last night one of the Sentinals Chang'd either a man or
Beast, which run off, all prepared for action, Set out early passed the
Dimond Isd. pass a Small Creek on the L. S. as this Creek is without name
we Call it Biscuit Creek Brackfast on the upper point of a Sand beech, The
river still falling a little a verry warm Day. I took Some medison last
night which has worked me very much party all in helth except Boils-
passed a Sand bar in the river above the Isd. Covered for a me. with Drift
Wood, Came to Capt Lewis took Medn. altitude & we delayed three hours,
the day being excessively hot, Turkeys are plenty on the Shore, G. Drewyer
inform that he Saw PueCanns Trees on S. S. yesterday great quantities of
raspburies an Grapes, (2) pass a Creek on the L. S. called remore (Tree
Frog) Creek, an Isd above in the Mid. and 2 Willow Isds on the S. S. all
of the Same name; The two Willow Isds. has been made within 3 years &
the Main Chant. runs now on the L S. of the large Island where there was
no runing water at low water from this Island the range of Hills up the
river to the N, W, pass a run on the L. S. a Butifull extensive Prarie,
Two Islands just above Called (Isles des Parques) or Field Islands, those
Islands are, one of our French hands tels me that the French intended to
Settle here once & brought their Cows and put them on those Islands,
Mr Mackey Says the first village of the Kanseis was a little above this
Island & made use of as fields, no trace of anything of that Kind
remains to be Seen on the Isds. fine Land on the L. Side, Hills near the
river all day, Camped on the lower pot. of 1st Isd.
[Clark, July 1, 1804]
July 1st, Sunday 1804 a Small allarm last night all prepared for action,
Set out early this morning passed on the North Side of Dimond Island, a
Small Creek mouths opposit I call Biscuit Creek, — a large Sand bar in
the middle of the river 11/2 ms. above the Isd. Covered with Drift wood.
river fall a little. The wind from S. W. Came to above this Drift and
delayed three hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered
with the heat, Great quantity of Grapes & raspberries, (2) passed a
Small Creek on the L. S. below one large and two small Islands. This Creek
and Isds. are Called Remore (or Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the
main Current of Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that
Three years ago the main Current run on the S. S. of the Island and no
appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on the lower point of one of
the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called Isles des Parques or field Islds
a high butifull Prarie on the L. S. one of the french hands Says "that the
french Kept their Cattle & horses on those Islands at the time they
had in this quarter a fort & trading establishment."
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great quantities on
the bank
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July the 2nd 1804 Set out verry early this morning passd on the Left of
the Isles des parques High butifull Situation — on the L S. the land
indifferent lands a Creek coms in on the S. S. Called parques, all at once
the river became Crowded with drift that it was dangerous to cross this I
Suppose was from the caveing in of the banks at the head of Some Island
above, (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turquie or Turkey Creek
passed a verry bad Sand bar on the L. S. the 20 Oars & Poals could
with much dificuelty Stem the Current, passed a large Island on the S. S.
Called by the Inds. Wau-car-ba war-con-da or the Bear Medison Island, at
12 oClock came to on the Island and put in a mast, detained four hours,
exceedingly hot, wind in forepart of the day from the S. E, George Drewyer
informs that the Lands he pass through yesterday & to day on the S. S.
was generally Verry fine he Saw two Springs of fresh water near the
Island, Deer Sign has become So Common it is hardly necessary to mention
them, we Camped after dark on the S. S. opposit the 1st old Village of the
Kanzas which was Situated in a Valley between two points of high land, on
the river back of their village commenced an extensive Prarie a large
Island in front which appears to have made on that Side and thrown the
Current of the river against the place the Village formerly Stood, and
washes away the bank in that part. The french formerly had a Fort at this
place, to protect the trade of this nation, the Situation appears to be a
verry elligable one for a Town, the valley rich & extensive, with a
Small Brook Meanding through it and one part of the bank affording yet a
good Landing for Boats The High Lands above the Fere river on each Side of
the Missouries appear to approach each other much nearer than below that
plaice, being from 3 to 6 miles between them, to the Kansas, above that
place from 3 to 5 Ms. apart and higher Some places being 160 or 180 feet
the river not So wide We made a Mast of Cotton wood, to day in the Course
of the evening & night it turned of a butifull red Colour
[Clark, July 2, 1804]
July 2nd, 1804 Set out early and proceeed on the left of the islands, two
of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S. passed the mouth of
a Creek on the S. S. Called Turquie Creike, at this place I observed that
the river was Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to pass as this dead
timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded that Some Island of
Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turky Creek, a
bad Sand bar on the L. S. we could with dificuelty Stem the Current with
our 20 oars & and all the poles we had, passed a large Island on the
S. S. Called by the Indians Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medesin
Island, at 12 oClock landed on the Island & put up a mast which
detained us four hours — a verry hot day winds from the S. E. — George
Drewyer inform's that the Lands he passed through yesterday and to day on
the S. S. was verry fine, few Springs, we Camped after dark on the S. S.
above the Island & opposit the 1st old village of the Kanzes which was
Situated in a valley, between two points of high Land, and imediatly on
the river bank, back of the village and on a riseing ground at about one
mile The French had a garrison for Some time and made use of water out of
a Spring running into Turkey Creek. an extensive Prarie, as the Current of
the river Sets against the banke and washes it away the landing place for
Boats is indifferent — The high lands above the Fire river, approaches
nearer each than below, being from 3 to 6 miles distant and above Kansas
from 3 to 5 miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to 180
feet above the bottom
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a
gentle Breeze from the South passed two Islands one a Small Willow Island
on the L. S. (1) The other a large Island Called Cow 1. (Isle Vache), this
Island is large, opposit to the head on the S. S. is a (2) large Pond, a
Bad Sand bar on the S. S. we attemptd without Success, & was oblige to
Cross back, I Saw a White horse on the L. S. in view of the upper point of
the Island, (3) passed a large Sand bar at the S. point, we halted to day
about a mile above the Island and found a horse, which had been lost by
the Indians, verry fat and jentle, Sent him on to join the others which
was ahead on the L S at this place, the french had a tradeing house, for
to trade with the Kanzes on a high bottom on the L. S. near the hills
which is Prarie proceeded on round a large Sand bar on the L. S. &
Camped (opposit a large Sand bar in the middle of the river). on the L. S.
a Butifull Small Stream passes back of the trading house, before mentioned
[Clark, July 3, 1804]
July 3rd, Tusday 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on
under a gentle Breeze from the S. passed two Islands (1) one a Small
willow Island on the L. S. the other large Called by the french Isle de
Vache or Cow Island, opposit the head on the S. S. is a large Pond
Containg Beever, & fowl, a bad Sandbar on the S. S. above the Island,
on the L. S. we halted at an old Tradeing house, here we found a verry fat
horse, which appears to have been lost a long time a butifull Small run
passes back of the Tradeing house near the high land, we came to at a
round bend on the L. S. and Camped
[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday 1804, Set out early passed the mouth of a Beyeue
leading from a Lake on the S. S. this Lake is large and was once the bend
of the River, it reaches Parrelel for Several miles, Came to on the L. S.
to Dine & rest a Short time, a Snake bit Jo. Fields on the Side of his
foot which Swelled much, apply Barks to the wound, pass a Creek on the L.
S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive Prarie as this Creek has
no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we name this Independance us.
Creek above this Creek the wood land is about 200 yards, back of those
wood is an extensive Prarie open and high, which may be Seen six or seven
below — Saw great Nos. of Goslins to day nearly Grown, the last
mentioned prarie I call Jo Fields Snake Prarie, Capt Lewis walked on Shore
& Saw a large moun & 3 roads leading We Camped in the plain one of
the most butifull Plains, I ever Saw, open & butifully diversified
with hills & vallies all presenting themselves to the river covered
with grass and a few scattering trees a handsom Creek meandering thro at
this place the Kansaw Inds. formerly lived and had a verry large Town
passed a Creek (4) I observed Spring braking out of the bank, a good
Situation for a fort on a hill at the upper part
The Plains of this countrey are covered with a Leek Green Grass, well
calculated for the sweetest and most norushing hay-interspersed with Cops
of trees, Spreding ther lofty branchs over Pools Springs or Brooks of fine
water. Groops of Shrubs covered with the most delicious froot is to be
seen in every direction, and nature appears to have exerted herself to
butify the Senery by the variety of flours Delicately and highly flavered
raised above the Grass, which Strikes & profumes the Sensation, and
amuses the mind throws it into Conjecterng the cause of So magnificent a
Senerey in a Country thus Situated far removed from the Sivilised world to
be enjoyed by nothing but the Buffalo Elk Deer & Bear in which it
abounds & Savage Indians
The names of the french Ingishees, or Hirelens-
in Perogue
1 Battist de Shone Patrn
2 Joseph Le bartee
3 Lasoness
4 Paul Preemau
5 Chalo
6 E. Cann
7 Roie
8 Charlo Cougee
in the large Boat
*J. Le bartee
Rivee
bow men
Pieter Crousatt half Indian
William La Beice Mallat
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat
George Drewyer. Hunter & 4 Horses
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate river
Mr. Dueron inteptr for the Sues Capt. Lewis my Self & York
in all 46 men July 4th 4 horses & a Dog
[Clark, July 4, 1804]
July 4th Wednesday ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our
Bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a (1) Bayeau lading from a
large Lake on the S. S. which has the apperance of being once the bed of
the river & reaches parrelel for Several Miles Came to on the L. S. to
refresh ourselves &. Jos. Fields got bit by a Snake, which was quickly
doctered with Bark by Cap Lewis. (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds. wide on L. S.
comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards of the river,
as, this Creek has no name, and this being the we Dine (on corn) the 4th
of July the day of the independance of the U. S. call it 4th of July 1804
Creek, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this Creek and discovered a high
moun from the top of which he had an extensive view, 3 paths Concentering
at the moun Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which Were nearly grown,
the before mentioned Lake is clear and Contain great quantities of fish an
Gees & Goslings, The great quantity of those fowl in this Lake induce
me to Call it the Gosling Lake, a Small Creek & Several Springs run in
to the Lake on the East Side from the hills the land on that Side verry
good — (3) We came to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where 2d
old Kanzas village formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek 20 yds wide
this Creek we call Creek Independence as we approached this place the
Praree had a most butifull appearance Hills & Valies interspsd with
Coops of Timber gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of
Creek Independence Meandering thro the middle of the Plain a point of high
Land near the river givs an allivated Situation. at this place the Kanzas
Indians formerley lived. this Town appears to have covd. a large Space,
the nation must have been noumerous at the time they lived here, the Cause
of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard, nor Can I learn;
war with their neghbors must have reduced this nation and Compelled them
to retire to a Situation in the plains better Calculated for their defence
and one where they may make use of their horses with good effect, in
persueing their enemey, we Closed the by a Discharge from our bow piece,
an extra Gill of whiskey.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July the 5th 1804 Set out verry early this morning, Swam the horse across
the river, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the old Kansas
town formerly stood The Cause of those people moveing from this place I
cannot learn, but naterally conclude that War has reduced their nation
& compelled them to retire further into the Plains with a view of
defending themselves & opposeing their enemey (more effectuall) on
hors back (I neglected to mention yesterday that the Lake on the S. S. was
large Say 3/4 me. wide & 7 or 8 long one creek & Several brooks
running into it from the hills, it contains Great quantities of Sun fish
& Gosling's from which we gave it the name,) passed Some verry bad
Sand bars Situated parrelel to each other, (1) the Boat turned three times
once on the ____ of a Drift wood. She recved no proceiviable damage, we
came to for Dinner at a Beever house, Cap Lewis's Dog Seamon went in &
drove them out. the high Lands on the L. S. is open, a few trees
Scattering (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. in the 1s bend to the
left I call yellow oaker creek from a bank of that Mineral just above. we
camped on the L. S. under a high bank Latd. 39° 25' 41" North
on the banks of this river I observe great quants of Grapes, berries &
roses Deer is not So plenty in this three days past as they were below
that. Elks are plenty about those Praries. Some Buffalow Sign.
[Clark, July 5, 1804]
July 5th Thursday 1804 Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank
where the old village Stood for two miles, (Swam the hors found a few days
ago) passed Some bad Sand bars, The Origan of this old village is
uncertain M. de Bourgmont a French officer who Comdd. a fort near the Town
of the Missouris in about the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he
visited this Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well
desposed towards the french Mr. Du Pratz must have been badly informed as
to the Cane opposd this place we have not Seen one Stalk of reed or cane
on the Missouries, he States that the "Indians that accompanied M De
Bourgmont Crossed to the Canzes Village on floats of Cane"
Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time as Mr. De B. was
accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young people & 300 Dogs of burthen
out of this Village
The Cause of Those Indians moveing over to the Kanzis river I have never
lernt — we passed Some bad Sand bars, Situated parrelel to each other
(1) The Boat turned twice on the quick Sand & once on a raft of Drift,
no procievable damage Prarie Contine on the high land on the L. S. passd a
Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L S. I call Yellow-Oaker
Creek from a quantity of that Mineral in a bank a little above
The river Continue to fall a little — I observe great quantities of
Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks — Deer
is not so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the
river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the right
(1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy of remark
that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think that the most
Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I could Suppose Could
pass thro the humane body Those men that do not work at all will wet a
Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet will run off in
Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys
Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it) opposit this Prarie the
river is Confined in a verry narrow Space Crowded on S. S. by Sands which
were moveing and difficuelt to pass. the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on
the 4th point of to day is a Small Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in
the river, this is Called the Grand Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on
this Sand bar found it a light Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of
various Kinds, also pit Coal of an excellent quallity was lodged on the
Sand, We camped on the L. S. at a small creek a whiper will perched on the
boat for a Short time, I gave his name to the Creek
[Clark, July 6, 1804]
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W. passed
a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a Small Island
at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie on the S. S.
Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined in a verry
narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This Sand bar from
the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th Point from the S. S.
is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is a Small willow Island
this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection of
Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than is
Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the principal
Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water on
the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm morning,
passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back, those
Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided by narrow
Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs which rise on
the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick (Frasure)
Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank, Killed a
wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river, all confined
within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small willow Island on the
S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands are joined to the Sand
bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the S. S near the prarie we
passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several young Swans we Came to and
Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out last evening with the horses did
not join us this evening agreeable to orders — a hard wind with Some
rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which lasted half an hour, with thunder
& lightning. river fall a little
[Clark, July 7, 1804]
July the 7th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some Swift water, which
obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit a
butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries on the
river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river Divided by
narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on the runs
leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the Prarie. Saw
a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a Verry narrow
part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200 yards wide at
this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand to Confine the
Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above the Small Islds.
Situated at the points, in low water form a part of the Sand bars makeing
out from those points
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N. E.
with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he Saw in
a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young Swans-,)
one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him & gave
Niter which has revived him much
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man much better,
Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an Island, passed
(1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper point, G Drewyer went
out R. Fields & Guterich, five men Sick to day with a violent Head ake
&c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook to each mess to take
Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's = Collens in Sjt. Ordway's
Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french men Killed a young Deer on
the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of about 80 or 100 yds wide about
5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River which corns in to this channel from
the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide at its mouth ____ feet Deep and has a
jentle Current, Perogues can navagate this river near its head, which is
between the Missourie & the Grand River, passed up the gut 3/4 of a
mile to the river at the head of the Island & camped opposit the head
of this Island is another nearest the Middle R this Island Nadawa is the
largest I have Seen, formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river. — "8
or 10000 acrs"
[Clark, July 8, 1804]
July the 8th Sunday 1804 Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S.
and two (1) Small Islands on the S S. five men Sick to day with a violent
head ake &c. we made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes,
came to for Dinner at the lower point of a very large Island Situated near
the S. S. after a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to
80 yds wide five miles to the mouth of (3) Nkdawa River, This river Coms
in from the North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about
70 yards wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So wide, the mud
of the Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth
half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the Said
Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen in
the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom overflowed we Camped
at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our Camp is a
Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still falling. our flank
party did not join us this evening
[Lewis, July 8, 1804]
Detachment Orders Nadawa Island July 8th 1804. In order to insure a
prudent and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the
Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the
same among the individuals of the several messes, The Commanding Officers
Do appoint the following persons to recieve, cook, and take charges of the
provisions which may from time to time be issued to their respective
messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt. Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt. Pryor's
Mess. — These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately
respon sible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of the
provi sion which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their several
messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and best
calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in their mode
of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they shall allso point
out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be
consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon and night; nor is any
man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions without
the privity, knowledge and consent of the Superintendant. The
superintendant is also held responsible for all the cooking eutensels of
his mess. in considera tion of the duties imposed by this order on
Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard
duty, tho they will still be held on the royster for that duty, and their
regular tour-shall be per formed by some one of their rispective messes;
they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting
firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat
as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the
other members of the mess. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to
mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the
river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the
middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a
Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three miles
in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed from N E. to
S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. called
Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a Sand bar in the
Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above the Creek, where
Several french men camped two years to hunt — (4) passed a Island on
the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land on the L. S. wind
Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this Island, and on the L. S.
Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards Wide, but little
water running at the mouth, this river heads with the waters of the
Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some distance, it abounds with
Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island on the L. S. Saw a fire on
the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to be theire, Sent a perogue for
them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue French, they returned &
informed, that when they approached the fire, it was put out, which caused
them to return, this report causd. us to look out Supposeing a pty. of
Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec to allarm & put on their guard
the men on Shore everey thing in readiness for Defence.
[Clark, July 9, 1804]
July 9th Monday 1804 one man Sent back to the river we passed last night
to Blase a tree with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing
Set out and passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit
to our Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a
Creek or Bayaue Corns in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our
flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it down
with that name anex'd,v at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E to S W
and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of Creek on
the L. S. Called Monter's Creek, about two mile above is some Cabins where
our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years (4) passed an Island
on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on the L. S. the
wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L. Side (Loup) or
Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the
waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues "Some destance up"
Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of the Island, our party
was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not answering our Signals Caused
us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit to us was a war party of Soux, we
fired the Bow piece to alarm the party on Shore, ailed prepared to oppose
if attacted
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the fire
Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men were
at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the Course of
the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not heard by party in the
perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed Prarie on the upper
Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L. S. Called R.
Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a Spanierd who
killed himself at the mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called de Selamen and
delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on the L. S. is a
(3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000 acres of Land
covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of Goslings on
the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed two this
evening, we came to & Camped for the night. at a point on the S. S.
opposit a yellow Clay Clift. — our men all getting well but much
fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on the
S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near the
river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is open
plains.
[Clark, July 10, 1804]
July 10th Tuesday 1804 Set out early this morning and Crossd the river
with a view to See who the party was that Camped on the other Side, we
Soon discovered them to be our men, — proceeded on passed a Prarie on
the L. S. at 4 miles passed a Creek L. S Called (1) Pappie after a man who
Killed himself at its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide — (2) Dined on
an Isld. Called de Salamin Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the
men opposit on the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres
(3) Covered with wild rye & Potatoes, intermix't with the grass, we
camped on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed two
young Gees or Goslings this evening — The men of the party getting
better, but much fatigued — The river on a Stand — The bottom is
verry extensive on the S. S. and thickly intersperced with Vines The High
Land approaches near the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the
river, back of those hills the Plains Commence.
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th Wednesday, Set out early proceeded on passed a Willow (1) Island
in a bend to the S. S. Sent out Dreweyer & Jo. Fields to hunt, Back of
this Island a creek corns in on the S. S. called by the Indians Little
Tarkio Creek I went on Shore above this Island on the S. S. found the
bottom Subject for overflow wet and verry thickly interwoven with grape
Vines — proceeded on at about 1/2 a miles from the river about 3 ms.
and observed fresh Sign of a horse, I prosueed the track, with an
expectation of finding a Camp of Indians on the river, when I got to the
river, I saw a horse on the Beech, this horse as appears was left last
winter by Some hunting party, probable the Othouez, I joined the Boat on
the Sand Island Situated opposit the mouth of the Ne Ma har River, this
river Coms in on the L. S. is about 80 yds Wide and navagable for Perogues
Some Distance up the praries Commnce above the mouth and Continus on both
Sides of this R Drewyer killed 6 Deer to day J. Field one Several hunters
Sent out up the Nemahar R
[Clark, July 11, 1804]
July 11th, Wednesday 1804 Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a
bend on the S. S. back of this Island a Creek Corns in Called by the
Indians Tar-ki-o
I went on Shore above this Creek and walked up parrelel with the river at
ab ut half a mile distant, the bottom I found low & Subject to
overflow, Still further out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that
I could not get thro with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I
observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I turned my course
to the river and prosud the track and found him on a Sand beach This horse
Probably had been left by Some party of Otteaus hunters who wintered or
hunted in this quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the party on a large
Sand Island imediately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma haw River, at which
place they had Camped, this Island is Sand about half of it Covered with
Small Willows of two different Kinds, one Narrow & the other a Broad
Leaf. Several hunters Sent out to day on both Sides of the river, Seven
Deer Killed to day. Drewyer Killd Six of them, made Some Luner
observations this evening.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th Thursday Som hunters out on the S. S. those on the L. S. did not
return last night, our object in delaying here is to tak Some Observations
and rest the men who are much fatigued made Sundery observations, after an
early Brackfast I took five men and went up the River Ne Ma har about
three miles, to an open leavel part of an emence prarie, at the Mouth of a
Small Creek on the Lower Side, I went on Shore, & passed thro the
plain passed Several noles to the top of a high artificial Noal from the
top of this noal I had an emence, extensive & pleaseing prospect, of
the Countrey around, I could See the meandering of the Little River for at
least 10 miles winding thro a meadow of 15 or 20000 acres of high bottom
land covered with Grass about 41/2 feet high, the high lands which rose
irregularly, & were toped with Mounds or antent Graves which is to me
a Strong evidence of this Countrey haveing been thickly Settled-.This
River is about 80 yards wide with a gentle Current and heads up near the
Parnee Village on River Blue a branch of Kansas, a little timbered land
near the mouth for 1 mile above, only a fiew Trees, and thickets of Plumbs
Cheres &c are Seen on its banks the Creeks & little reveens
makeing into the river have also Some timber — I got grapes on the
banks nearly ripe, observed great quantities, of Grapes, plums Crab apls
and a wild Cherry, Growing like a Comn. Wild Cherry only larger &
grows on a Small bush, on the side of a clift Sand Stone 1/2 me. up &
on Lower Side I marked my name & day of the month near an Indian Mark
or Image of animals & a boat Tried Willard for Sleeping on his post,
our hunters killed some Deer, Saw Elk & Buffalow.
[Clark, July 12, 1804]
July 12th, Thursday 1804 Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of
takeing equal altitudes & makeing observations as well as refreshing
our men who are much fatigued — after an early Brackfast I with five
men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about 2 miles to the mouth
of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, here I got out of the Perogue, after
going to Several Small Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the
Lower Side, on this hill Several Artificial Mounds were raised, from the
top of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view of the
Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I
ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of Clear water of about 80 yards
wide Meandering thro a leavel and extensive Meadow, as far as I could See,
the prospect Much enlivened by the fine Trees & Srubs which is
bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into
it,-. The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 41/2 feet high, and
appears as leavel as a Smoth Surfice, the 2 bottom is also covered with
Grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with Copses of the Osage
Plumb. on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with a
numbers of Grapes and a Wild Cherry resembling the Common Wild Cherry,
only larger and grows on a Small bush on the tops of those hills in every
derection. I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more justly term
Graves) which to me is a Strong indication of this Country being once
Thickly Settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still Keep up the Custom of
Burrying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of about two miles
about I returned to the perogue and decended down the River, gathd. Som
grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4 of a mile from its
mouth on the Lower Side I observed Some Indian marks, went to the rock
which jutted over the water and marked my name & the day of the month
& year — This river heads near one of the Villages of the Pania on
the River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River. — above this river about
half a mile the Prarie Comes to the Missouri after my return to Camp on
the Island Completed Som observations, Tred tried a man for sleeping on
his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of the party found all
complete, Took Some Luner Obsevations. three Deer killed to day. Latd. 39°
55' 56" N.
[Lewis and Clark, July 12, 1804]
Camp New Island July 12th 1804. A Court matial consisting of the two
commanding officers will convene this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of
such prisoners as may be brought before them; one of the court will act as
judge Advocate. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
The Commanding officers. Capt. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted
themselves a Court martial for the trial of Such prisoners as are Guilty
of Capatol Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War punishable by
Death,
Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying down and Sleeping
on his post whilst a Sentinal, on the night of the 11th. Instant" (by John
Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)
To this Charge the prisoner pleads. Guilty of Lying Down, and not Guilty,
of Going to Sleep. The Court after Duly Considering the evidence aduced,
are of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdn. Willard is guilty of every part
of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a breach of the rules and
articles of War (as well as tending to the probable distruction of the
party) do Sentence him to receive One hundred lashes on his bear back, at
four different times in equal propation. — and order that the
punishment Commence this evening at Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted,
(by the Guard) every evening untill Completed Wm Clark M. Lewis
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
My notes of the 13th of July by a Most unfortunate accident blew over
Board in a Storm in the morning of the 14th obliges me to refur to the
Journals of Serjeants, and my own recollection the accurrences Courses
Distance &c. of that day — last night a violent Storm from the N.
N, E. (1) passed Tar-ki-o River, at 2 miles a chant. running into this
river 3 ms. abov forms St Josephs Isld. Passed an elegt Prarie in the 1st
bend to the left. Containg a grass resmlg Timothy, with Seed like flax,
(2) passed a Island in a bend to the S. S. at 12 ms. I walked on Shore S.
S. lands, low & overflows, Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Sailed
under a Wind from the South all day, Camped on a Sand Island on the L. Pt.
opposit a high & extensiv Prarie, on the S. S. the Hills about 4 or 5
me. off, this Plain appears extensive, great appearance of a Storm from
the North W. this evening verry agreeable the wind Still from the South-
from the Osagies Nation with twenty odd of the Natives or chiefs of the
Nation with him sailed dowen the Mississippi bound to St Louis & 3
guns fired showers of rain Showers of Rain all that night
[Clark, July 13, 1804]
July 13th Friday 1804 Set out at Sun rise, and prosd. on under a gentle
Breeze, at two miles passed the mouth of a Small river on the S. S. Called
by the Indians Tarki-o, a Channel running out of the river three miles
above (which is now filled up with Sand) runs into this Creek & and
formed a Island Called St.
Josephs Several Sand bars parralel to each other above — In the first
bend to the left is Situated a Butifull & extensive plain, Cover'd
with Grass resembling Timothy except the Seed which resembles Flax Seed,
this plain also abounds in Grapes of defferent Kinds Some nearly ripe. I
Killed two Goslings nearly Grown, Several others Killed and cought on
Shore, also one old Goose, with pin fethers, She Could not fly — at
about 12 miles passd. a Island Situated in a bend on the S. S. above this
Island is a large Sand bar Covered with willows. The wind from the South,
Camped on a large Sand Bar makeing out from the L. P. opposit a high
hanson Prarie, the hills about 4 or 5 miles on S. S. this plain appeard
extensive, the Clouds appear to geather to the N. W. a most agreeable
Breeze from the South (I walked on Shore on the S. S. the lands are low
Subject to overflow)
Last night at about 10 oClock a violent Storm of wind from the N. N. E.
which lasted with Great violence for about one hour, at which time a
Shower of rain Succeeded.
The men on Shore did not join us this after noon — The river nearly on
a Stand — the high lands on the S. S. has only been Seen at a Distance
above the Nordaway River, those on the S. L. aproaching the river at every
bend, on the Side next to the river well timbered, the opsd. Side open
& the Commencmt. of Plains.
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July the 14th Satturday Some hard Shours of rain accompaned with Some wind
detained us untill about 7 oClock, we then Set out and proceeded on about
a mile and th atmispeir became Suddenly darkened by a blak & dismal
looking Cloud, we wer in a Situation, near the upper point of a Sd. Isd.
& the opsd Shore falling in in this Situation a Violent Storm of Wint
from the N, E (passing over an Open plain, Struck the boat nearly
Starboard, quatering, & blowing down the Current) the exerssions of
all our Men who were out in an instant, aded to a Strong Cable and Anchor
was Scrcely Sufficent to Keep the boat from being thrown up on the Sand
Island, and dashed to peices the Waves dasthed over on the Side next to
the wind the lockers which was covered with Tarpoling prevented them
coming into the boat untill the Boat was Creaned on the Side from the Wind
in this Situation we continued about 40 minits, the two perogues about a
quater of a mile above, one of them in a Similer Situation with the Boat,
the other under the charge of George Gibson in a much better position,
with her Ster faceing the wind, this Storm Suddenly Seased, & 1 minit
the river was as Smoth as glass, the wind Shifted to the S. E and we Set
Sail, and proceeded on passed (1) a Small Island on the S. S. and Dined — R.
Fields who has charge of the horses &c. on Shore did not join us last
night-. passed a old fort where Mr. Bennet of St Louis winttered 2 years
& traded with the Otteaus & Parties on the S. S. 1 me. abov the
little Island, I went out on the L. S. and observed two Elk on a land in
the river, in attempting to get near those elk obseved one near us I Shot
one. continued on Shore & thro the bottom which was extensive, Some
Small Praries, and a peponce of high rich & well timbered bottom, in
the Glades I saw wild Timothy, Lams quarter Cuckle burs & rich weed,
on the edges Plumbs of different kinds Grapes, and Goose berries, Camped
on the L. S. Ruben Fields and Gulrich joined the Party two men unwell, one
a Felin on his finger, river fall
[Clark, July 14, 1804]
July 14th, Satturday 1804 Some hard Showers of rain this morning prevented
our Setting out untill 7 oClock, at half past Seven, the atmispr. became
Sudenly darkened by a black and dismal looking Cloud, at the time we were
in a Situation (not to be bettered) near the upper point of the Sand
Island, on which we lay, and the opposit Shore, the bank was falling in
and lined with Snags as far as we could See down,-. in this Situation The
Storm which passd over an open Plain from the N. E. Struck the our boat on
the Starbd. quarter, and would have thrown her up on the Sand Island
dashed to peces in an Instant, had not the party leeped out on the Leward
Side and kept her off with the assistance of the ancker & Cable,
untill the Storm was over, the waves Dashed over her windward Side and She
must have filled with water if the Lockers which is covered with Tarpoling
& Threw of the water & prevented any quantity Getting into Bilge
of the Boat
In this Situation we continued about 40 Minits. when the Storm Sudenly
Seased and the river become Instancetaniously as Smoth as Glass.
The two perogus dureing this Storm was in a Similar Situation with the
boat about half a mile above — The wind Shifted to the S. E & We
Saled up passed a Small (1) Isld. Situated on the S. S. and Dined &
Continud two hours, men examine their arms — about a Mile above this
Island, passed a Small Tradeing fort on the S. S. where, Mr. Bennet of St.
Louis Traded with the Otteaus & Panies two years. I went on Shore to
Shoot Some Elk on a Sand bar to the L. S. I fired at one but did not get
him, went out into a large extensive bottom the greater part of which
overflows, the part that dose not overflow, is rich and well timbered,
Some Small open Praries near the hills, the Boat passed the lower part of
a large Island Situated on the S. S. above the Lower point of this Island
on the S. S. a (2) large Creek corns into the river Called by the Maha's
Indians Neesh-nah-ba-to-na 50 yds this is a considerable Creek nearly as
large as the Mine River, and runs parrelel with the Missouri, the Greater
part of its Course. In those Small Praries or glades I saw wild Timothey,
lambs-quarter, Cuckle burs; & rich weed. on the edges Grows Sumr.
Grapes, Plum's, & Gooseberries. I Joined the boat which had Came to
and Camped in a bend opposd. the large Island before mentioned on the L.
S. Several men unwell with Boils, Felns, &c. The river falls a little.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th Sunday 1804. a heavy fog this morning which Detained us untill 7
oClock, put Drewyer Sgt. Floyd on Shore, at 9 I took two Men and went on
Shore, with a view to Kill Some elk, passed thro open plains, and barroney
lands Crossed three butifull Small Streams of water, Saw great quantity of
Cherres Plums, Grapes & Berries of Difft. Kinds, the lands Generally
of a good quallity, on the Streams the wood escapes the fire, at about 7
miles I Struck the river at the mouth Ne ma har Creek about 40 yds wide,
near this Creek on a high part of the Prarie I had a extensive View of the
river & Countrey on both Sides. on S. a contnuation of the plain as
far as I could See, on the N. a bottom Prarie of about 5 ms. wide & 18
or 20 long, hills back of this Plain. I Swam across the Creek and waited
for the Boat about three miles above, we camped opsd. an Island.
[Clark, July 15, 1804]
July 15th, Sunday a heavy Fog this morning prevented our Setting out
before 7 oClock, at nine I took two men and walked on the L. S. I crossed
three butifull Streems of runnig water heading in the Praries on those
Streem the lands verry fine covered with pea Vine & rich weed the high
Praries are also good land Covered with Grass entirely void of timber
except what grows on the water, I proceeded on thro those praries Several
miles to the mouth of a large Creek on the L. S. called (2) Ne ma har this
is a Small river, about 100 yds. above the mouth it is 40 yards wide, at
the mouth (as all other Creeks & rivers falling into the Missourie
are) much narrower than a little distance up. after continueing at the
mouth of this Creek about an hour, I Swam across and proceeded on about 3
miles and halted to wate for the boat, which was Some distance below — In
all this days march thro woods & Praries, I only Saw three Deer &
3 fawns — I had at one part of the Prarie a verry extensive view of
all the Countrey around up and down the river a Considerable distance, on
the Larbd. Sd. one Continul Plain, on the S. S. Some timber on the bank of
the river, for a Short distance back of this timber is a bottom Plain of
four or five miles back to the hills and under the hills between them
& the river this plain appeared to extend 20 or 30 miles, those Hills
have but little timber, and the Plain appears to Continu back of them — I
Saw Great quantities of Grapes, Plums, or 2 Kinds wild Cherries of 2
Kinds, Hazelnuts, and Goosberries.
we Camped in a point of woods on the Larboard S. opsd. a large Island.
[Lewis, July 15, 1804]
Sunday July 15th This evening I discovered that my Chronometer had stoped,
nor can I assign any cause for this accedent; she had been wound up the
preceding noon as usual. This is the third instance in which this
instrument has stopt in a similar manner since she nas been in my
possession, tho the first only since our departure from the River Dubois.
in the two preceding cases when she was again set in motion, and her rate
of going determined by a series of equal altitudes of the sun taken for
that purpose, it was found to be the same precisely as that mentioned in
the preliminary remarks to these observations, or 15 s & 5 tenths too
slow in 24 h-as her rate of going after stoping, and begin again set in
motion has in two instances proved to be the same, I have concluded, that
whatever this impediment may procede from, it is not caused by any
material injury which her works have sustained, and that when she is in
motion, her error on mean time above stated, may be depended on as
accurate. In consequence of the chronometer's having thus accedentally
stoped, I determined to come too at the first convenient place and make
such observations as were necessary to ascertain her error, establish the
Latitude & Longitude, and determine the variation of the nedle, in
order to fix a second point of departure.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16 1804 Monday Set out verry early and proceeded on the Side of a
Prarie passd the head of the Island opsd. which we Camped last night, (1)
passed a Small willow Island off the L. point, hills make near the river
(2) passed a large Island nearest the L. S. below the pt. a Small willow
Isd. also one on the Side. this large Island is called fair Sun the wind
favourable from the South. Boat run on a Sawyer, (4) pass a place on the
L. S. where the hill abt. 20 acres has Sliped into the river lately just
above passed under a clift of Sand Stone L. S. a number of Burds Nests in
the holes & crevises of this rock which Continus 2 miles, (5) passed a
willow Island in a Deep bend to the S. S. river 2 mile wide at this place,
note Deed Snags across, passed the Lower point of a Island called Isle
Chauvin Situated on the L. Point opposit an extensive Prarie on the S. S.,
This prarie I call Ball pated Prarie from the range ball hills, at from 3
to 6 miles from the river as far as my Sight will extend, we camped in a
point of woods opsd. the Isd. on S. S. in a bend.
[Clark, July 16, 1804]
July 16th Monday 1804 Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on
under a gentle breeze from the S passed the upper point of the Island an
extensive Prarie on the L. S. passed a large (1) Island Called Fair Sun
Isd. a Small willow Isld. at the lower point on the L. S. the boat passd
on the L. S. of those Islands Several Small Sand Islands in the Channel,
the Boat run on the point of a Snag, (2) passed a place above the Island
L. S. where about 20 acres of the hill has latterly Sliped into the river
above a clift of Sand Stone for about two miles, the resort of burds of
Different Kinds to reare their young. (5) Passed a willow Island in a Deep
Bend to the S. S. opposit the river is about two miles wide, and not verry
Deep as the Snag may be Seen across, Scattering, passed the Lower point of
an Island called by French Chauvin's Situated off the L. Point opposit an
extensive Prarie on the S. S. This Prarie I call Ball gated Prarie, from a
range of Ball Hills parrelel to the river & at from 3 to 6 miles
distant from it, and extends as far up & Down as I Can See, we Camped
in a point of woods on the L. S. above the Lower point of the Island.
river falling.
[Lewis, July 16, 1804]
Monday 16th we set out at an early hour; the morning was cloudy; could
find no convenient situation for observation; proceeded untill a little
before noon when we came too On the Lard. Shore opposite to the center of
good Island where I observed the meridian altitude of O's L. L. with
Octant by the back observation, wich gave me the Latitude — 40° 20′
12″ N.
I now set the Chronometer as near noon as this observation would enable
me, and proceeded untill evening, when we came too on the Stard. shore
opposite the lower point of the Island of the Bald prarie where we
encamped.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
July 17th Tuesday, we concluded to lay by today to fix the Longitude, and
get the Cronometer right, (She run down Day before yesterday), Several men
out hunting to day Capt. Lewis rode out to Neesh-nahba-to na Creek which
passes thro. the Prarie (on which there is Some few trees) within ____
Mile of the Missoureis, wind from the S E. Several of the party have
tumers of different Kinds Some of which is verry troublesom and dificuilty
to cure. I took a meridian altitude (43° 27') which made the Lattitude of
this place 40° 27' 6" 4/10 North. — (The Ball Hills bear N 25° W for
30 mes. The bend on L. S. passing the Isd. on the right Side is N. 28° W.
4 ms.) Took equal altitudes Tried a part of the comn pt. of the Current in
40 Seconds the water run 50 fathem 30" & 20" in places
Cap Lewers returned, Saw Some hand Som Countrey, the Creek near the high
land is rapid and nearly as muddy as the river, & rising Gutrich
caught two verry fat Cat fish G Drewyer Killed 3 Deer, & R Fields one,
a puff of wind brought Swarms of Misquitors, which disapeared in two
hours, blown off by a Continuation of the Same brees.
[Clark, July 17, 1804]
Bald Pated Prarie July 17th, Tuesday 1804 We Concluded lay by at this
place to day to fix the Lattitude & Longitude of this place to Correct
the cromometer run down Sunday) Several men out by day light hunting Capt.
Lewis Concid. to ride out to Neesh-nah-ba-to-na Creek which passes under
the ball hills near this place and at one place a little above this Camp
is within 300 yards of the Missouris on this Creek grows Some few trees of
oake walnut & mulberry. I took Meridian altitude of sun L. L. (43°
27') which made the Lattitude 40° 27' 5" 4/10 North — wind from the
South E. Several of the party much aflicted with turners of different
Kinds, Som of which is verry troublesom and dificuelt to cure. Capt. Louis
returned in the evening. he Saw Som hand Some Countrey & Says that the
aforesaid Creek is rapid muddey and running — This Creek which is at
10 or 12 from its mouth, within 300 yds of the river is at least 16 foot
Lower than the river — The high Lands from our Camp in this Bald Pated
Prarie bears N 25° W. up the R.
The Common Current taken with a Log runs 50 fathen in 40"Some places much
Swifter in 30" and even 20 Seconds of time — five Deer killed to day
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday a fair morning the river falling fast, Set out at
Sunrise under a gentle Breeze from S. E by S. at 3 miles passed the head
of the Island on L. S. called by the French Chauve or bald pate (1) opsd.
the middle of this Island the Creek on L. S. is within 300 yds. of the
river. back of this Island the lower point of (2) another Island in the
bend to the L. S. passed large Sand bar making out from each point with
many channels passing through them, "Current runs 50 fathm. in 41 Seconds"
but little timber on either Side of the river, except the Isds. &
points which are low wet & Covered with lofty trees, Cotton wood
Mulberry Elm &c. &c. passed the head of a long Island in high
water at this time no water passes thro the Channel (3) opposit the Lower
point of a Island on the L. S. pass the Island and opsd. the point (4)
above & on the L. S. the hills come to the river, This Hill has Sliped
into the river for about 3/4 of a mile, and leaves a Bluff of considerable
hight back of it this Hill is about 200 foot high compsd. of Sand Stone
inter mingled with Iron ore of an inferior quallity on a bed of Soft Slate
Stone.
We passed a verry bad Sand bar (4) a little above the hill and incmpd on
the L. S. opposit a Small Island in the river, Saw a Dog this evening
appeared to be nearly Starved to death, he must have been left by Some
party of Hunters we gave him Some meet, he would not come near, G Drewrer
brought in 2 Deer this evening
[Clark, July 18, 1804]
July 18th Wednesday 1804 a fair morning the river falling fast Set out
this morning at Sun rise under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. by S.
passing over the Prarie, at about 3 Miles we passed the head of the Island
L. S. Called by the French Chaube or Bald pate opposit the middle of (1)
This Island the Creek on the S. S. is nearest the river, In high water an
Island is formed in the bind above the last (2)- Measured the Current and
found that in forty one Seconds it run yo fathoms but little timber is to
be Seen except in the Low points on Islands & on Creeks, the Groth of
timber is generally cotton Mulberry Elm Sycomore &c &c. passed a
Island on the 2d point to the S. S. opposite the water (3) whin high
passes out in the Plain oppsid this Island on the L. S. the hills jut to
the river (4) this Hill has Sliped from the top which forms a Bluff above
& 200 foot above the water, about 3/4 of a mile in length & about
200 feet in Depth has Sliped into the river it is Composed of Sand Stone
intermixed with an indiffert. Iron ore near the bottom or next to the
water is a Soft Slate Stone, Som pebble is also intermixt, we passed a
verry bad Sand bar and incamped on the L. S. at the lower point of the
oven Islands & opposit the Prarie Calld. by the french Four le Tourtue
Saw a Dog nearly Starved on the bank, gave him Som meet, he would not
follow, our hunters killed 2 Deer to day
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th after breakfast which was on a rosted Ribs of a Deer a little
and a little Coffee I walked on Shore intending only to Keep up with the
Boat, Soon after I got on Shore, Saw Some fresh elk Sign, which I was
induced to prosue those animals by their track to the hills after
assending and passing thro a narrow Strip of wood Land, Came Suddenly into
an open and bound less Prarie, I Say bound less because I could not See
the extent of the plain in any Derection, the timber appeared to be
confined to the River Creeks & Small branches, this Prarie was Covered
with grass about 18 Inches or 2 feat high and contained little of any
thing else, except as before mentioned on the River Creeks &c, This
prospect was So Sudden & entertaining that I forgot the object of my
prosute and turned my attention to the Variety which presented themselves
to my view after continueing on this rise for Some minits, I deturmined to
make my course to a line of woods to S. E. I found in this wood a butifull
Streem of running water, in prosuing it down Several others Joined it and
at 3 miles fell into the river between 2 clifts, I went up & under one
clift of dark rich Clay for 1/2 me. above this a Clay bank which had
Sliped in here I found Sand Stone Containing Iron ore, this ore appears to
be inbeded under the Clay just above the water
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th Thursday 1804 Set out early pass between 2 Islands one in mid.
& the other L. S. opsd. wher Prarie aproaches the river S. S. This
place is called the Bakers oven or in french Four le Tour tere passd. Some
highlands 41/2 ms. above the Isds. on the L. S. forming a Clift to the
river of yellow earth, on the top a Prarie, passd. many a bad Sand bar in
this distance, & the river wide & Shallow, above this Clift 2
Small butiffull runs Come from the Plains & fall into the river, a
Deer lick on the first, above those two Creeks, I found in my walk on
Shore Some ore in a bank which had Sliped in to the river 3/4 me. above
the Creeks, I took a cerequite around & found that those two runs
mentioned contained a good proposion of wood Surrounded by a plain, with
grass about 18 Inchs. high, (Capt Lewis walked on Shore after Dinner) in
the first bind to the right above those Runs passed a Small Island opsd.
is a Sand bar I call this Island Butter Island, as at this place we mad
use of the last of our butter, as we approach this Great River Platt the
Sand bars are much more noumerous than they were, and the quick &
roleing Sands much more danjerous, where the Praries aproach the river it
is verry wide, the banks of those Plains being much easier to undermine
and fall than the wood land passed (4) a willow Island Situated near the
middle of the river, a Sand bar on the S. S. and a Deep bend to the L S.
camped on the right Side of the Willow Island-W. Bratten hunting on the L.
S Swam to the Island. Hunters Drewyer killed 2 Deer, Saw great numbers of
young gees. The river Still falling a little Sand bars thick always in
view.
[Clark, July 19, 1804]
July 19th, Thursday 1804 Set out early passed between two Small Islands,
one in the middle of the river, the other Close on the L S. opposit a
prarie S. S. Called (1) by the french Four le tourtre, The Bakers oven
Islands, passed (2) Some high Clift 41/2 miles above the Islands on the L.
S. of yellow earth passed Several Sand bars that were wide and at one
place verry Shallow (two Small butifull runs falls into the river near
each other at this Clift, a Deer Lick 200 yards up the Lowest of those
runs) Those runs head at no great distance in the plains and pass thro of
timber to the river. In my walk on Shore I found Some ore in the bank
above those runs which I take to be Iron ore (3) at this place the Side of
the hill has Sliped about half way into the river for 3/4 of a Mile
forming a Clift from the top of the hill above. In the first bend to the
right passed a Small Island a Sand bar opposit, — worthey of remark as
we approach this great River Plate the Sand bars much more numerous and
the quick or moveing Sands much worst than they were below at the places
where Praries approach the river it is verry wide those places being much
easier to wash & under Mine than the wood Land's. (4) passed a Willow
Isd. Situated near the Middle of the river and a large Sand makeing out
from the S. S. a Deep bend to the L S. we Camped at the head of this
Island on the Starboard Side of it, Hunters Killed Two Deer. Saw great
numbers of young Gees River falling a little.
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th Friday 1804, a fog this morning and verry Cool George Drewyer
Sick proceed on over a Sand bar, Bratten Swam the river to get his gun
& Clothes left last night psd a large willow Isd. on the L. S. (1)
passed the mouth of l'Eau que pleure the English of which is the water
which Cry's this Creek is about 20 yards wide falls into the river above a
Gift of brown Clay L. S. opposit a willow Island, at this Creek I went on
Shore took R Fields with me and went up this Creek Several miles &
crossed thro the plains to the river above with the view of finding Elk,
we walked all day through those praries without Seeing any, I killed an
emence large yellow Wolf-The Countrey throu which we walked after leaveing
the Creek was good land covered with Grass interspersed with Groves &
Scattering timber near and about the heads of Branches one of them without
Suckcess, Camped above the bar on the L. S. a verry agreeable Breeze all
night Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer river Still
falling. a large Spring 3/4 me. below camp
[Clark, July 20, 1804]
July 20th, Friday 1804 a cool morning passed a large willow Island (1) on
the S. S. and the mouth of Creek about 25 yds. wide on the L. S. Called by
the french l'Eue-que pleure, or the the Water Which Cry's this Creek falls
into the river above a Clift of brown Clay opposit the Willow Island, I
went out above the mouth of this Creek and walked the greater part of the
day thro Plains interspesed with Small Groves of Timber on the branches
and Some Scattering trees about the heads of the runs, I Killed a Verry
large yellow wolf, The Soil of Those Praries appears rich but much Parched
with the frequent fires-" after I returned to the Boat we proceeded around
a large Sand bar makeing out from the L. S. opsd. a fountain of water
comeing out of a hill L. S. and affording water Suffient to turn a mill
The Praries as far as I was out appeared to be well watered, with Small
Streems of running water Serjt. Pryor & Jo. Fields brought in two Deer
this evening — a verry Pleasent Breeze from the N. W. all night — river
falling a little, It is wothey of observation to mention that our party
has been much healthier on the Voyage than parties of the Same Number is
in any other Situation Turners have been troublesom to them all
From this evenings incampment a man may walk to the Pane Village on the S
bank of the Platt River in two days, and to the Otteaus in one day all
those Indians are Situated on the South bank of the Plate River, as those
Indians are now out in the praries following & Hunting the buffalow, I
fear we will not See them.
[Lewis, July 21, 1804]
July 21, 1804 by a boiling motion or ebolition of it's waters occasioned
no doubt by the roling and irregular motion of the sand of which its bed
is entirely composed. the particles of this sand being remarkably small
and light it is easily boied up and is hurried by this impetuous torrent
in large masses from place to place in with irristable forse, collecting
and forming sandbars in the course of a few hours which as suddingly
disapated to form others and give place perhaps to the deepest channel of
the river. where it enters the Missouri it's superior force changes and
directs the courant of that river against it's northern bank where it is
compressed within a channel less than one third of the width it had just
before occupyed. it dose not furnish the missouri with it's colouring
matter as has been asserted by some, but it throws into it immence
quantities of sand and gives a celerity to it's courant of which it abates
but little untill it's junction with the Mississippy. the water of this
river is turbid at all seasons of the year but is by no means as much so
as that of the Missourie. The sediment it deposits, consists of very fine
particles of white sand while that of the Missoury is composed principally
of a dark rich loam-in much greater quantity
21st July from the experiments and observations we were enabled to make
with rispect to the comparative velocities of the courants of the rivers
Mississippi Missouri and Plat it results that a vessel will float in the
Mississippi below the entrance of the Missouri at the rate of four miles
an hour. in the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississsippi to the
entrance of the Osage river from 51/2 to 6 from thence to the mouth of the
Kanzas from 61/2 to 7. from thence to the Platte 51/2 while the Plat is at
least 8. — The Missouri above the junction of the river plat is equal
to about 31/2 miles an hour as far as the mouth of the Chyenne where its
courant still abates and becomes equal to about three miles an hour from
information it dose not increase it's volocity for
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st Satturday, Set out verry early and a Gentle Breeze from the S. E
proceeded on very well, passed a (1) Willow Island L. S. opsd. a bad Sand
bar passed Some high land covered with Timber, in this Hill is Semented
rock & Limestone the water runs out and forms Several little Islands
in (2) high water on the S. S. a large Sand bar on the S. S. above and
opposit the wooded High Land, at about 7 oClock the wind Seased and it
Commenced raining passed many Sand bars opposit or in the Mouth of the
Great River Plate this river which is much more rapid than the Missourie
has thrown out imence quantities of Sand forming large Sand Banks at its
mouth and forced the Missourie Close under the S. S. the Sands of this
river Comes roleing down with the Current which is Crowded with Sand bars
and not 5 feet water at any place across its mouth, the Rapidity of the
Current of this river which is greater than that of the Missourie, its
width at the Mouth across the bars is about 3/4 of a mile, higher up I am
told by one of the bowmen that he was 2 winters on this river above and
that it does not rise 7 feet, but Spreds over 3 miles at Some places, Capt
Lewis & my Self went up Some Distance & Crossed found it Shallow.
This river does not rise over 6 or 7 feet
Proceeded on passed the mouth of Papillion or Butter fly Creek 3 miles on
the L. S. a large Sand bar opposit on that Side Camped above this baron L.
S. a great number of wolves about us all night R. Fields killed a Deer
hard wind N. W. cold
[Clark, July 21, 1804]
July 21st, Satturday 1804 Set out early under a gentle breeze from the S.
E. proceeded on verry well, passed (1) a willow Island on the L. S.
opposit a bad Sand bar, Some high lands covered with timber L. S in this
hill is limestone & Seminted rock of Shels &c. (2) in high water
the opposit Side is cut thro by Several Small Channels, forming Small
Islands, a large Sand bar opposit the Hill at 7 oClock the wind luled and
it Commnc'd raining, arrived at the lower Mouth of the Great River Platt
at 10 oClock (about 3 ms. above the Hill of wood land, the Same range of
High land Continus within 3/4 of a mile of the mouth below) This Great
river being much more rapid than the Missourie forces its current against
the opposit Shore, The Current of This river Comes with great Velocity
roleing its Sands into the Missouri, filling up its Bend & Compelling
it to incroach on the S Shore — we found great dificuelty in passing
around the Sand at the mouth of this River Capt Lewis and My Self with 6
men in a perogue went up this Great river Plate about 1 miles, found the
Current verry rapid roleing over Sands, passing through different Channels
none of them more than five or Six feet deep, about 600 yards Wide at the
mouth — I am told by one of our Party who wintered two winters on This
river that "it is much wider above, and does not rise more than five or
Six feet" Spreds verry and from its rapidity & roleing Sands Cannot be
navagated with Boats or Perogues — The Indians pass this river in Skin
Boats which is flat and will not turn over. The Otteaus a Small nation
reside on the South Side 10 Leagues up, the Panies on the Same Side 5
Leagus higher up — about 10 Leagus up this river on the S. Side a
Small river Comes into the Platt Called Salt River, "The waters So
brackish that it Can't be Drank at Some Seasons" above this river & on
the North Side a Small river falls into the Platt Called Elk River This
river runs Parralal withe the Missouri — at 3 miles passed a Small
river on the L. S. Called Papillion or Butterfly C. 18 yds. wide a large
Sand bar off the mouth, we proceeded on to get to a good place to Camp and
Delay a fiew days, passed around this Sand bar and Came to for the night
on the L. S. a verry hard wind from the N. W. I went on Shore S. S. and
proceeded up one mile thro high Bottom land open a Great number of wolves
about us this evening
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd Sunday Set out verry early with a view of getting Some timbered
land & a good Situation to take equil altitudes in time proceeded on
nearly a North 15° W 7 ms. to a pt. S. S. opposit Some high Lands on L. S.
above the upper point of a long willow Island in the middle of the river 6
Deer killed to Day we deturmined to Stay here 4 or 5 days to take &
make obsvts. & refresh our men also to Send Despatches back to
govement — Wind hard N. W. Cold
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
22nd of July 1804 Completlly arranged our Camp, posted two Sentinals So as
to Completely guard the Camp, formd bowers for the min $cc. &. Course
from R Plate N 15° W. 10 Ms.
[Clark, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd, Sunday 1804 Set out verry early with a view of Getting to Some
Situation above in time to take equal altitudes and take Observations, as
well as one Calculated to make our party Comfortabl in a Situation where
they Could recive the benifit of a Shade — passed a large Sand bar
opposit a Small river on the L. S. at 3 miles above Plate Called Papillion
or Butterfly Creek a Sand bar & an Willow Island opposit a Creek 9 ms.
above the Plate on the S. S. Called Mosquitos Creek Prarie on both Sides
of the river. Came too and formed a Camp on the S. S. above a Small Willow
Island, and opposit the first Hill which aproach the river on the L. S.
and covered with timbers of Oake Walnut Elm &c. &. This being a
good Situation and much nearer the Otteaus town than the Mouth of the
Platt, we concluded to delay at this place a fiew days and Send for Some
of the Chiefs of that nation to let them Know of the Change of Government,
The wishes of our Government to Cultivate friendship with them, the
Objects of our journy and to present them with a flag and Some Small
presents
Some of our Provisions in the French Perogue being wet it became necessary
to Dry them a fiew days — Wind hard from N W. five Deer Killed to day — The
river rise a little
[Lewis, July 22, 1804]
July 22nd 1804. A summary discription of the apparatus employed in the
following observations; containing also some remarks on the manner in
which they have been employed, and the method observed in recording the
observations made with them.
1st — a brass Sextant of 10 Inches radius, graduated to 15 which by
the assistance of the nonius was devisible to 15"; and half of this sum by
means of the micrometer could readily be distinguished, therefore-7.5" of
an angle was perceptible with this instrument; she was also furnished with
three eye-pieces, consisting of a hollow tube and two telescopes one of
which last reversed the images of observed objects. finding on experiment
that the reversing telescope when employed as the eye-piece gave me a more
full and perfect image than either of the others, I have most generally
imployed it in all the observations made with this instrument; when thus
prepared I found from a series of observations that the quantity of her
index error was 8' 45"-; this sum is therefore considered as the standing
error of the instrument unless otherwise expressly mentioned. the
altitudes of all objects, observed as well with this instrument as with
the Octant were by means of a reflecting surface; and those stated to have
been taken with the sextant are the degrees, minutes, &c shewn by the
graduated limb of the instrument at the time of observation and are of
course the double altitudes of the objects observed.
2ed — A common Octant of 14 Inches radius, graduated to 20', which by
means of the nonius was devisbile to 1', half of this sum, or 30" was
perceptible by means of a micrometer. this instrument was prepared for
both the fore and back observation; her error in the fore observation is
2°+, & and in the back observtion 2° r 1' 40.3" + at the time of our
departure from the River Dubois untill the present moment, the sun's
altitude at noon has been too great to be reached with my sextant, for
this purpose I have therefore employed the Octant by the back observation.
the degrees ' & ", recorded for the sun's altitude by the back
observation express only the angle given by the graduated limb of the
instrument at the time of observation, and are the complyment of the
double Altitude of the sun's observed limb; if therefore the angle
recorded be taken from 180° the remainder will be the double altitude of
the observed object, or that which would be given by the fore observation
with a reflecting surface.
3rd — An Artificial Horizon on the construction recommended and
practiced by Mr. Andrw. Ellicott of Lancaster, Pensyla., in which water is
used as the reflecting surface; believing this artificial Horizon liable
to less error than any other in my possession, I have uniformly used it
when the object observed was sufficiently bright to reflect a distinct
immage; but as much light is lost by reflection from water I found it
inconvenient in most cases to take the altitude of the moon with this
horizon, and that of a star impracticable with any degree of accuracy.
4th — An Artificial Horizon constructed in the manner recommended by
Mr. Patterson of Philadelphia; glass is here used as the reflecting
surface. this horizon consists of a glass plane with a single reflecting
surface, cemented to the flat side of the larger segment of a wooden ball;
adjusted by means of a sperit-level and a triangular stand with a
triangular mortice cut through it's center sufficiently large to admit of
the wooden ball partially; the stand rests on three screws inserted near
it's angles, which serve as feet for it to rest on while they assist also
in the adjustment. this horizon I have employed in taking the altitude of
the sun when his image he has been reather too dull for a perfect
reflection from water; I have used it generally in taking the altitude of
the moon, and in some cases of the stars also; it gives the moon's image
very perfectly, and when carefully adjusted I consider it as liable to but
little error.
5th — An Artificial Horizon formed of the index specula of a Sextant
cemented to a flat board; adjusted by means of a sperit level and the
triangular stand before discribed. as this glass reflects from both
surfaces it gives the images of all objects much more bright than either
of the other horizons; I have therefore most generally employed it in
observing the altitudes of stars
6th — A Chronometer; her ballance-wheel and escapement were on the
most improved construction. she rested on her back, in a small case
prepared for her, suspended by an universal joint. she was carefully wound
up every day at twelve oclock. Her rate of going as asscertained by a
series of observations made by myself for that purpose was found to be 15
Seconds and a 5 tenths of a second too slow in twenty four howers on Mean
Solar time. This is nearly the same result as that found by Mr. Andrew
Ellicott who was so obliging as to examine her rate of going for the space
of fourteen days, in the summer 1803. her rate of going as ascertained by
that gentleman was 15.6 s too slow M. T. in 24 h. and that she went from 3
to 4 s. slower the last 12 h, than she did the first 12 h. after being
wound up.
at 12 OCk. on the 14th day of may 1804 (being the day on which the
detachment left the mouth of the River Dubois) the Chronometer was too
fast M. T. 6 m. 32 s. & 2/10. — This time-piece was regulated on
meantime, and the time entered in the following observations is that shewn
by her at the place of observation. the day is recconed on Civil time, (i
e) commencing at midnight.
7th — A Circumferentor, circle 6 Inches diameter, on the common
construction; by means of this instrument adjusted with the sperit level,
I have taken the magnetic azimuth of the sun and pole Star. It has also
been employed in taking the traverse of the river: — from the courses
thus obtained, together with the distances estimated from point to point,
the chart of the Missouri has been formed which now accompanys these
observations. the several points of observation are marked with a cross of
red ink, and numbered in such manner as to correspond with the celestial
observations made at those points respectively.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp 10 Ms. above the river Plate Monday July the 23rd a fair morning — Sent
out a party of 5 men to look to timber for Ores two other parties to hunt
at 11 oClock Sent, G. Drewyer & Peter Crusett 1/2 Indn. to the Otteaus
Village about 18 ms. West of our Camp, to invite the Chiefs &
principal men of that nation to come & talk with us &. &.,
also the panic if they Should meet with any of that nation (also on the S.
Side of the Plate 30 ms. higher up) (at this Season of the year all the
Indians in this quater are in the Plains hunting the Buffalow from Some
Signs Seen by our hunter and the Praries being on fire in the derection of
the Village induce a belief that the Nation have returned to get green
Corn) raised a flag Staff put out Some provisions which got wet in the
french Perogue to Sun & Dry — I commenced Coppying my map of the
river to Send to the Presdt. of U S. by the Return of a pty of Soldiers,
from Illinois five Deer Killed — one man a bad riseing on his left
breast. Wind from the N. W.
[Clark, July 23, 1804]
Camp White Catfish 10 Miles above the Platt River Monday the 23rd of July
1804 A fair morning Set a party to look for timber for Ores, two parties
to hunt. at 11 oClock Sent off George Drewyer & Peter Crousett with
Some tobacco to invite the Otteaus if at their town and Panies if they Saw
them to Come and talk with us at our Camp &c. &c. (at this Season
the Indians on this river are in the Praries Hunting the Buffalow but from
Some Signs of hunters near this place & the Plains being on fire near
their towns induce a belief that they this nation have returned to get
Some Green Corn or rosting Ears) raised a flag Staff Sund & Dryed our
provisions &c. I commence Coppying a map of the river below to Send to
the P. ____ U S five Deer Killed to day one man with a turner on his
breast, Prepared our Camp the men put their arms in order
Wind hard this afternoon from the N. W.
Equal altitudes taken at the White Catfish Camp, 10 miles above the river
Platt-
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 24th of July Tuesday. a fair morning the wind rose with
the Sun & blows hard from the S. thos Southerley Breezes are dry Cool
& refreshing. the Northerley Breezes which is more frequent is much
Cooler, and moist, I continue my Drawing. Cap Lewis also ingaged
prepareing Som paper to Send back, one of the men cought a white Catfish,
the eyes Small, & Tale resembling that of a Dolfin.
[Clark, July 24, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 Ms. above Platt 24th, of July 1804 Tuesday a fair
day the wind blows hard from the South, the Breezes which are verry
frequent on this part of the Missouri is cool and refreshing. Several
hunters out to day; but as the game of all Kinds are Scarce only two Deer
were brought in — I am much engaged drawing off a map, Capt. Lewis
also much engaged in prepareing Papers to Send back by a pirogue — Which
we intended to Send back from the river Plate — observations at this
place makes the Lattitude 41° 3' 19" North
This evening Guthrege Cought a white Catfish, its eyes Small & tale
much like that of a Dolfin
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 25th of July Wednesday. Several hunters Sent out. at 2
oClock the Two men Sent to the Otteaz Village returned and informed that
no Indians were at the Town they Saw Some fresh Sign near that place which
they persued, but Could not find them, they having taken precausions to
Conceal the rout which they went out from the Villagethe Inds. of the
Missouries being at war with one & the other or other Indians, move in
large bodies and Sometimes the whole nation Continue to Camp together on
their hunting pls. Those men inform that they passed thro a open Plain all
the way to the Town a feiw Trees excepted on the watercourses — they
Cross the papillion or the Butterfly Creek within a feiw miles of Camp and
near the Village a handsm. river of 100 yards Wide Called the Corne de
chearf or the Elkhorn, which mouths below the Town in the Plate N. Side.
Wind from the S. E. 2 Deer & a Turkey Killed to Day Several Grous Seen
in the Prarie
[Clark, July 25, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 25th of July Wednesday a fair morning Several hunters
out today at 2 oClock Drewyer & Peter returned from the Otteaus
Village; and informs that no Indians were at their towns, They Saw Some
fresh Signs of a Small party but Could not find them. in their rout to the
Towns (Which is about 18 miles West) they passed thro a open Prarie
Crossed papillion or Butterfly Creek and a Small butifull river which run
into the Platt a little below the Town Called Corne de charf or Elk Horn
river this river is about 100 yards wide with Clear water & a gravely
Channel. — wind from the S. E two Deer Killed to day 1 Turkey Several
Grous Seen to day.
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Whit Catfish Camp 26th of July Thursday. the wind blew Verry hard all Day
from the South with Clouds of Sand which incomoded me verry much in my
tent, and as I could not Draw in the Boat was obliged Combat with the
Misqutr. under a Shade in the woods-. I opened the Breast of a man the
discharge gave him ease &c. 5 beaver Caught near Camp-only 1 Deer
Killed to day. The Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of
about 5 ms. wide one half the Distn. timber, the other high bottom Prarie,
the opsd. Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundatio. Timbered back
& below. a Prarie
[Clark, July 26, 1804]
Catfish which is White Camp 26th of July Thursday 1804 the wind blustering
and hard from the South all day which blowed the Clouds of Sand in Such a
manner that I could not complete my pan in the tent, the Boat roled in
Such a manner that I could do nothing in that, I was Compessed to go to
the woods and Combat with the Musqutors, I opened the Turner of a man on
the left breast, which discharged half a point.
five Beever Cought near this Camp the flesh of which we made use of- This
evening we found verry pleasent — only one Deer Killed to day. The
Countrey back from Camp on the S. S. is a bottom of about five mile wide,
one half the distance wood & the ball. plain high & Dry. the
opposed Side a high Hill about 170 foot rock foundation, Covd. with
timber, back & below is a Plain.
[Lewis, July 27, 1804]
white Catfish Camp July 27th Friday, Charged the Boat and Perogue after a
Small Shower of rain, Completed our ores & poles, Crossed over the two
horses, with a View of their going on the S W. Side of the Missouri and
Set out at Half past 1 oClock proceeded on Verry well under a gentle
Breeze. passed a high Island of high wood land on the L. Side just above
Camp, this Island is formed by a pond Supplied by a great number of
Springs from this hill, this Pond has 2 out lets, & when the river is
high the water passes thro the pond, passed a Sand Island in the 2nd bend
to the right. Camped in a bend to the L. S. in Some wood, I took R. Fields
& walked on Shore & Killed a Deer, and did not get to the Boat
untile after night a butifull Breeze from the N W. this evening which
would have been verry agreeable, had the Misquiters been tolerably
Pacifick, but thy were rageing all night, Some about the Sise of house
flais
[Clark, July 27, 1804]
White Catfish Camp 10 ms above Platt 27th of July Friday, a Small Shower
of rain this morning, at 10 oClock Commence Loading the Boat &
perogue; had all the Ores Completely fixed; Swam over the two remaining
horses to the L. S. with the view of the Hunters going on that Side, after
Getting everry thing Complete, we Set Sale under a gentle breeze from the
South and proceeded on, passed a Island (formd by a Pond fed by Springs)
on the L. S. of high Land Covered with timber, in the 2nd bend to the
right a large Sand Island in the river a high Prarie on the S. S. as we
were Setting out to day one man Killed a Buck & another Cut his Knee
verry bad Camped in a Bend to the L. Side in a Coops of Trees, a verry
agreeable Breeze from the N W. this evening. I Killed a Deer in the Prarie
and found the Misquitors So thick & troublesom that it was
disagreeable and painfull to Continue a moment Still.
I took one man R. Fields and walked on Shore with a View of examoning Som
mounds on the L. S. of the river — those mounds I found to be of
Deffirent hight Shape & Size, Some Composed of Sand Some earth &
Sand, the highest next to the river all of which covered about 200 acres
of land, in a circular form on the Side from the river a low bottom &
Small Pond. The Otteaus formerly lived here I did not get to the boat
untile after night.
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July 28th Satturday Set out this morning early, the wind blou from the N.
W. by N. a Dark Smokey Morning, Some rain at 1 me. passed a Bluff on the
S. S. it being the first high land approachig the river above the Nodaway,
a Island and Creek S. S. just abov this creek I call Indian Knob G.
Drewyer Came with a Deer &informs he heard fireing to the S. W. I
walked on Shore on the S. S. found some good Prarie out from the S. pt.
The High Lands approach the river 1st bend to left The party on Shore
brought in a Missouri Indian who resides with the Otteauz, this Indian
& 2 others were Hunting in the Prarie their Camp is about 4 miles off.
This Indian informs that his nation is in the Plains hunting the Buffalow,
the party with which he is encamped is about 20 familey Hunting the Elk,
we landed on S. S. below an Island
[Clark, July 28, 1804]
July the 28th, Satturday 1804 Set out this morning early, the wind from
the N W. by N. a Dark Smokey morning Some rain passed at 1 me. a Bluff on
the S. S. the first high land above the Nodaway aproaching the river on
that Side a Island and Creek 15 yds. wide on the S. S. above this Bluff,
as this Creek has no name call it Indian Knob Creek our party on Shore
Came to the river and informs that they heard fireing to the S W. below
this High Land on the S. S. the Aiawuay Indians formerly lived, The flank
came in & informed they heard two Guns to the S. W. the highland
approaches in the 1st bend to the left, we camped on the S. S. below the
point of an Island, G Drewyer brought in a Missourie Indian which he met
with hunting in the Prarie This Indian is one of the fiew remaining of
that nation, & lives with the Otteauz, his Camp about 4 miles from the
river, he informs that the great gangue of the nation were hunting the
Buffalow in the Plains. hs party was Small Consisting only of about 20
Lodges, ____ miles furthr a nother Camp where there was a french man, who
lived in the nation, This Indian appeard spritely, and appeared to make
use of the Same pronouncation of the Osarge, Calling a Chief Inca July
29th SundayWe Sent one frenchman le Liberty & the Indian to the Camp
to envite the party to meet us at the next bend of High Land on the L. S.
a Dark morning wind from the W. N. W. rained all last night Set out at 5
oClock &, proceeded on passed the Island, opposit this Island on the
S. S. the Creek called Indian Knob Creek which mouths Several miles on a
Direct line below, is within 20 feet of the Missouri & about 5 feet
higher
Cought three large Cat fish to day verry fat one of them nearly white
those Cat are So plenty that they may be Cought in any part of this river
but fiew fish of any other Kind.
(4) at the commencement of this course passed much fallen timber
apparently the ravages of a dreadful haricane which had passed obliquely
across the river from N. W. to S. E. about twelve months since. many trees
were broken off near the ground the trunks of which were sound and four
feet in diameter.
Willard lost his gun in Bowyers R. R. Fields Dive & brought it up All
the Wood Land on this part of the Missouries Appear to be Confined to the
Points & Islands.
Boyers River is provably 25 yds. Wide, Willard near loseing his Gun in
this river, two men Sick & Sevral with Boils, a Cold Day Wind from the
N W. Som rain the fore part of the Day.
[Clark, July 29, 1804]
July 29th Sunday 1804 Sent a french man la Liberty with the Indian to
Otteaze Camp to invite the Indians to meet us on the river above — a
Dark rainey morning wind from the W. N. W. — rained all the last night — Set
out at 5 oClock opposit the (1) Island, the bend to the right or S. S. is
within 20 feet of Indian Knob Creek, the water of this Creek is 5 feet
higher than that of the River. passed the Isld. we Stoped to Dine under
Some high Trees near the high land on the L. S. in a fiew minits Cought
three verry large Catfish (3) one nearly white, Those fish are in great
plenty on the Sides of the river and verry fat, a quart of Oile Came out
of the Surpolous fat of one of these fish (4) above this high land &
on the S. S. passed much falling timber apparently the ravages of a
Dreadfull harican which had passed obliquely across the river from N. W.
to S E about twelve months Since, many trees were broken off near the
ground the trunks of which were Sound and four feet in Diameter, (2) about
3/4 of a Me. above the Island on the S. S. a Creek corns in Called Boyers
R. this Creek is 25 yards wide, one man in attempting to Cross this Creek
on a log let his gun fall in, R. Fields Dived & brought it up
proceeded on to a Point on the S. S. and Camped.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th Monday Set out early & proceeded on West 33/4 mes.
passd. one pt. to the L. S and one to the S. S. to a Clear open Prarie on
the L. S. which is on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom which
is also a prarie covered with high grass Plumbs Grape Vine &
Hezel-both forming a Bluff to the River, the Lower Prarie is above high
water mark at the foot of the riseing ground & below the High Bluff we
came to in a grove of timber and formed a Camp raised a flag Pole, and
deturmind to waite for the Ottu Indians — The white Horse which we
found below Died last night, after posting out the Guards &c. &.
Sent out 4 men to hunt I am ingaged in ____ and Drawing off my courses to
accompany the map Drawn at White Catfish Camp, Capt. Lewis and my Self
walked in the Prarie on the top of the Bluff and observed the most
butifull prospects imagionable, this Prarie is Covered with grass about 10
or 12 Inch high, (Land rich) rises about 1/2 a mile back Something higher
and is a Plain as fur as Can be Seen, under those high Lands next the
river is butifull Bottom interspersed with Groves of timber, the River may
be Seen for a great Distance both above & below meandering thro the
plains between two ranges of High land which appear to be from 4 to 20 ms.
apart, each bend of the river forming a point which Contains tall timber,
principally Willow Cotton wood some Mulberry elm Sycamore & ash. the
groves Contain walnit coffeenut & Oake in addition & Hickory &
Lynn Jo. Fields Killed Brarow or as the Ponie call it Cho car tooch, this
animale burrows in the ground & feeds on Bugs and flesh principally
the little Dogs of the Prarie, also Something of Vegetable Kind his Shape
& Size is like that of a Beever, his head Mouth &c. is like a Dog
with its ears Cut off, his tale and hair like that of a Ground hog
Something longer and lighter, his interals like a Hogs, his Skin thick
& loose, white & hair Short under its belly, of the Species of the
Bear, and it has a white Streake from its nose to its Sholders, the Toe
nails of its fore feet which is large is 1 Inch and 3/4 qtr. long and
those of his hind feet which is much Smaller is 3/4 long. We have this
animale Skined and Stuffed. Short legs, raseing himself just above the
ground when in motion Jo & R. fields Killed Som Deer at a Distance and
Came in for a horse to bring them in, they have not returned this evening,
a gred number of Swans in a pond above L. S. to our Camp. Serjt. Floyd
verry unwell a bad Cold &c. Several men with Boils, great qts. of
Catfish G. D. Cought one Small Beever alive. Som Turkey & Gees Killed
to day. arms & all things in order. a fair evining, and Cool.
[Clark, July 30, 1804]
July 30th Monday 1804 Set out this morning early proceeded on to a Clear
open Prarie on the L. S. on a rise of about 70 feet higher than the bottom
which is also a Prarie both forming Bluffs to the river of High Grass
& Plumb bush Grapes &c. and Situated above high water is a Small
Grove of timber at the foot of the Riseing Ground between those two
priraries, and below the Bluffs of the high Prarie we Came too and formed
a Camp, intending to waite the return of the french man & Indians — the
white horse which we found near the Kanzeis River, Died Last night
posted out our guard and Sent out 4 men, Captn. Lewis & went up the
Bank and walked a Short Distance in the high Prarie. this Prairie is
covered with Grass of 10 or 12 inches in hight. Soil of good quallity
&, Still further back at the Distance of about a mile the Countrey
rises about 80 or 90 feet higher, and is one Continual Plain as fur as Can
be Seen, from the Bluff on the 2d rise imediately above our Camp the most
butifull prospect of the River up & Down and the Countrey opsd.
prosented it Self which I ever beheld; The River meandering the open and
butifull Plains, interspursed with Groves of timber, and each point
Covered with Tall timber, Such as willow Cotton Sun Mulberry, Elm,
Sucamore, Lynn & ash (The Groves Contain Hickory, Walnut, Coffeenut
& Oake in addition)
Two ranges of High Land parrelel to each other and from 4 to 10 miles
Distant between which the river & its bottoms are Contained. (from 70
to 300 feet high)
Joseph Fields Killed and brought in an Anamale Called by the French
Brarow, and by the Ponies Cho car tooch this Anamale Burrows in the Ground
and feeds on Flesh, (Prarie Dogs), Bugs, & vigatables — "His Shape
& Size is like that of a Beaver, his head mouth &c. is like a Dogs
with Short Ears, his Tail and Hair like that of a Ground Hog, and longer,
and lighter. his Interals like the interals of a Hog," his Skin thick and
loose, his Belly is White and the Hair Short — a white Streek from his
nose to his Sholders.
The toe nails of his fore feet is one Inch & 3/4 long, & feet
large; the nails of his hind feet 3/4 of an Inch long, the hind feet Small
and toes Crooked, his legs are Short and when he Moves Just Suffcent to
raise his body above the Ground He is of the Bear Species. we hav his Skin
Stuffed
Jo. & R. Fields did not return this evening, Several men with Verry
bad Boils — Cat fish is Cought in any part of the river Turkeys Gees
& a Beaver Killed & Cought every thing in prime order men in high
Spirits. a fair Still evening Great no. misquitors this evening
[Lewis, July 30, 1804]
July the 30th this day Joseph Fields killed a Braro as it is called by the
French engages. this is a singular anamal not common to any part of the
United States. it's weight is sixteen pounds. — it is a carniverous
anamal. on both sides of the upper jaw is fexed one long and sharp canine
tooth. it's eye are small black and piercing.
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st Tuesday a fair Day 3 hunters out this morning G. Drewyer Killed
a verry fat Buck one Inch fat on the ribs Merdn. altd Latd. is 41° 18' 0"
5/10-North. R & Jo. Fields returned at 10 oClock the Killed 3 Deer,
and lost the horses, Cought a Small Beever which is already taim, Several
men out hunting the horses without Sukcess, The Ottoes not yet arrived, I
complete the Copy of the Courses &c. &c. Musqueters verry
troubleson
[Clark, July 31, 1804]
July 31st, Tuesday a fair Day three Hunters out, Took meridian altitude
made the Lattd. 41° 18' 1" 5/10 N. R. & Jo. Fields returned to Camp
They Killed 3 Deer. — The Horses Strayed off last night. Drewyer
Killed a Buck one inch of fat on the ribs, R. & Jo. Fields returned
without any meet haveing been in persuit of the horses — The Indians
not yet arrived. Cought a young Beever alive which is already quit tame-.
Cought a Buffalow fish — The evening verry Cool, The Musqutors are yet
troublesom.
[Clark, August 1, 1804]
August the 1st 1804 a fair morning, Sent out two men after the horses
& one back to examine if the Indians have been there, ____ Beever
Cought last night, the air is Cool and pleasing
Prepared the Pipe of Peace verry flashey. wind rose at 10 oClock and
blowed from the W. S. W. very pleasent all day Several men geathering
grapes &c. two men after the horses which Strayed the night before
last. those Praries produce the Blue Current Common in the U. S. the Goose
Berry Common in the U. S, two Kind of Honeysuckle, the Bush which I have
Seen in Kentucky, with a paile Pink flower, also one which grow in
Clusters about 4 or 5 feet high bearing a Short flour in clusters of the
like Colour. the leaves Single. 3 Deer & an Elk Killed to day. This
being my birth day I order'd a Saddle of fat Vennison, an Elk fleece &
a Bevertail to be cooked and a Desert of Cheries, Plumbs, Raspberries
Currents and grapes of a Supr. quallity. The Indians not yet arrived. a
Cool fine eveninge Musquetors verry troublesom, the Praries Contain
Cheres, Apple, Grapes, Currents, Rasp burry, Gooseberris Hastlenuts and a
great Variety of Plants & flours not Common to the U S. What a field
for a Botents and a natirless
[Clark, August 1, 1804]
August the 1st 1804 a fair morning Despatched two men after the horses
lost yesterday, one man back to the place from which the messinger was
Sent for the Ottoes to See if any Indians was or had been there Since our
deptr. he return'd and informed that no person had been there Sence we
left it. The Prarie which is Situated below our Camp is above the high
water leavel and rich Covered with Grass from 5 to 8 feet high
intersperced with Copse of Hazel, Plumbs, Currents (like those of the
U.S.) Rasberries & Grapes of Dift. Kinds. also produceing a Variety of
Plants and flowers not Common in the United States, two Kind of honey
Suckle one which grows to a kind of a Srub. Common about Harrods burgh in
Kentucky the other are not So large or tall and bears a flower in Clusters
Short and of a light Pink Colour, the leaves differ from any of the othe
Kind in as much as the Lieves are Distinkd & does not Surround the
Stalk as all the other Kind does one Elk and three Deer Killed to day also
two Beever Cought
The wind rose at 10 oClock from the W. S. W. and blew a Steedy and
agreeable Breeze all Day.
The Musqutors verry troublesom this evening in the bottoms.
Took equal altitudes to day and the azmuth with the Commencement of the
A.M.
[Clark, August 2, 1804]
August 2nd 1804 wind from the SE G. Drewery returned with the horses &
one Doe Elk the countrey thro which he passed is like what we See from the
Bluff above Camp three men out Hunting one Beaver caught this morning.
at Sunset 6 chiefs and their warries of the Ottos, and Missoures, with a
french man by the name of Far fonge, we Shook hands and gave them Some
Tobacco & Provisions, they Sent us Water Millions Three verry large
& fat Bucks Killed to day the wind Continue hard from the S. E. the 4
qtr. of one Buck weigh'd 147 wt 11/2 Inch fat on the ribs
[Clark, August 2, 1804]
August 2nd Thursday 1804 A verry pleasent Breeze from the S. E. The Two
men Drewyer & Colter returned with the horses loaded with Elk, those
horses they found about 12 miles in a Southerly Derection from Camp.
The Countrey thro which they passed is Similar to what we See from Camp.
one Beaver & a foot of Beaver caught in trap Cought this morning at
Sunset Mr. Fairfong and a pt. of Otteau & Missourie Nation Came to
Camp, among those Indians 6 were Chiefs, the principal Chiefs Capt. Lewis
& myself met those Indians & informed them we were glad to See
them, and would Speak to them tomorrow, Sent them Som rosted meat Pork
flour & meal, in return they Sent us Water millions. every man on his
Guard & ready for any thing Three fat Bucks Killed this evening the 4
qtrs. of one weighed 147 lbs.
[Lewis, August 2, 1804]
August 2ed 1804. This day one of our Hunters brought me a white Heron.
this bird as an inhabitant of ponds and Marasses, and feeds upon tadpoles,
frogs, small fish &c — they are common to the Mississipi and the
lower part of the ohio River, (ie) as high as the falls of that river.
this bird weighed two lbs. — it's plumage is perfectly white and very
thin
F I. from extremity of beak to the extremity of toe 4 71/4 from tipp to
tip of wing on the back 4 11
it's beak is yellow pointed, flated crosswise and 5 Inches in length from
the upper region of the bill to the eye is one inch in length, covered
with a smoth yellow skin the plumage of the head projecting towards the
upper bill and coming to a point a an Inch beyond the eyes on the center
of the upper bill. The mouth opens to distance of the eyes — The eye
is full and projecting reather, it is 7/10 of half an inch. four joints in
the wing
Inches 1st joint from body in length 6 2ed Do. 81/4 3rd Do. 31/2 4th Do. 1
1st joint Number of feathers 7 Length of 3 2nd 18 6 3 6 from 10 to 12 4th
5 12
it's legs are black — the neck and beak occupy 1/2 it's length. it has
four toes on a foot — the outer toe on the right foot is from the
joining of the leg to extremity of toe nale 4 Inch & 1/4 has four
joints exclusive of the nail joint — the next is 43/4 inches has three
joints exclusive of the nale joint. the next is 33/4 and has two joints,
the heel toe has one joint only and is 3 Inches in length. the nails are
long sharp and black — the eye is of a deep seagreen colour, with a
circle of of pale yellow around the sight forming a border to the outer
part of the eye of about half the width of the whole eye. the tale has 12
feathers of six inches in length. — the wings when folded are the same
length with the tale.
has 2 remarkable tufts of long feathers on each side joining the body at
the upper joint of the wing. these cover the feathers of the 1st joint of
the wings when they are over extended
[Clark, August 3, 1804]
August 3rd Friday prepare a Small preasent for those Indians and hold a
Councul Delivered a Speech & made 8 6 chief... gave a fiew preasents
and, a Smoke a Dram, Some Powder & Ball — the man we Sent not yet
come up, Those people express great Satisfaction at the Speech Delivered
they are no Oreters, big, open Counternances, ottoes large Missor Small
at 4 oClock Set out under a gentle Breeze from the S. E proceeded on N. 5°
E 5 Ms. Passed a Pt. on the S. S. and round a large Sand bar on the L. S.
and Camped above, below a great number of Snags quit across the river, The
Musquitors more numerous than I ever Saw them, all in Spirrits, we had
Some rough Convasation G. Dr. about boys.
The Osage & Kansies are the Same language
the Ottoes & Mahars Speek many words of the Osarge language
The Ottos, Aiaways, & Missouries Speake the Same language the Panies
& Recreries Speak the Same language also the Loups & repub. the
Mahar, & Poncarar the Same Language The Cheaun, Mandin & Grovanter
the Same The Probibility is that those defferant tribes have once formed 3
great nats. Viz: the Missouries, Osarge, Kanzes, Ottoes, Mahars, &
Poncaras & Aiauaies one nation.
The Panies, Loups, Republican, Recrerees the 2nd
The Mandans Cheeons, & Grovanters the 3rd The tribes of the Soux all
retain the name 4th
It is possible that the, Mahar & Poncarear may have been a Distinct
nation, as they only Speek Some words of the osage which have the Same
Signification 25 Days to St Ta fee S. of W. Cross the heads of Arkansies
around the head of Kanzies River after Delivering a Speech informing thos
Children of ours of the Change which had taken place, the wishes of our
government to Cultivate friendship & good understanding, the method of
have good advice & Some Directions, we made 1 Great Chief to the who
was not present, to whom we adresed the Speech & Sent Some presents or
Meadels & flag, we made 2 Second Chiefs one for the Missouris &
another for the Ottos (those two tribes are nearly equal 1'70 each) and 4
principal men, to thos principal men to thos we gave a Small Comtn. to
each man to whom we gave authority, a preasn of Br. Ch. Gart. g. Paint
& a med. or Contn a Small Corns. was delivered for the whole each
Chief & principal man delivered a Speech acknowledging ther
approbation to what they had heard and promised to prosue the good advice
and Caustion, they were happy w new fathers who gave good advice & to
be Depended on all Concluded by asking a little Powder & a Drop of
Milk.
I answered those Speeches gave them 50 balls one Canister of Powder & a
Dram — after Cap Lewis Shot his air gun a few times which astonished the
nativs, we Set Sail. recved from thos people water millions & The
Cheifs & Principal men of the Ottoes & Missouris made by M L. & W C the
3rd August 1804
from this place I am told by Mr. Faufong the interpeter that it will take
a man 25 Days to go to St. a fee pass, the heads of Arkansas, round the
Kansas head, across Some mountains from the top of which the City may be
Seen the Spaniards have envited those Indians & the Panies to trade
with them & Some french & a few indians are gorn from the Panias
to that City this Summer-
The Situation of this place which we Call Council Bluff which is handsom
ellevated a Spot well Calculated for a Tradeing establishment, the Bank
high & leavel on top well Calculated for a fort to Command the
Countrey and river the low bottom above high water & well Situated
under the Command of the Hill for Houses to trade with the Natives a
butifull Plain both abov and below at no other bend on either Side does
the High land touch the river for Some distance up, as I am told.
those Bluffs afford good Clay for Brick, a great quantity on the 3 points
one Opsd. one abov &one below. — the Situation I am informed is,
within 1 Days march of the Ottoes, 11/2 of the Panias, 2 of the Mahars,
& 21/2 of the Loups Villages, also Convenient to the roveing Bands of
Soux, Those people are now at war with each other, an establishment here
would bring about peace and be the means of Keeping of it.
Augt. 3d Camped on the upper point of a large Sand bar L. S. Misquters
verry bad. Some place near Conncill Bluff will be the most proper place
for a tradeing establishment, for maney of the nations, the distance is to
the Ottoes one Days, Ponies 11/2 days, to the Mahar, 2 days, to Loups 2
Days & a half 16 or 1800 men-and convenient for Some bands of the
Sues,
[Clark, August 3, 1804]
August 3rd, Friday 1804 made up a Small preasent for those people in
perpotion to their Consiqunce. also a package with a meadile to accompany
a Speech for the Grand Chief after Brackfast we Collected those Indians
under an orning of our Main Sail, in presence of our Party paraded &
Delivered a long Speech to them expressive of our journey the wirkes of
our Government, Some advice to them and Directions how They were to
Conduct themselves, the princapal Chief for the nation being absente we
sent him the Speech flag Meadel & Some Cloathes. after hering what
they had to say Delivered a medal of Second Grade to one for the Ottos
& and one for the Missourie present and 4 medals of a third Grade to
the inferior Chief two for each tribe. Those two parts of nations, Ottos
& Missouries now residing together is about 250 men are the Ottoes
Composeing 2/3d and Missourie 1/3 part
Those Chiefs all Delivered a Speech acknowledgeing Their approbation to
the Speech and promissing to prosue the advice & Derictions given them
that they wer happy to find that they had fathers which might be depended
on &c.
We gave them a Cannister of Powder and a Bottle of whiskey and delivered a
few presents to the whole after giveing a Br. Cth. Some Paint guartering
& a Meadele to those we made Cheifs after Capt Lewis's Shooting the
air gun a feiw Shots (which astonished those nativs) we Set out and
proceeded on five miles on a Direct line passed a point on the S. S. &
round a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped on the upper point. The
Misquitors excessively troublesom this evening Great appearance of wind
and rain to the N. W. we prepare to rec've it — The man Liberty whome
we Sent for the Ottoes has not Come up he left the Ottoes Town one Day
before the Indians. This man has eithered tired his horse or, lost himself
in the Plains Some Indians are to hunt for him, The Situation of our last
Camp Councill Bluff or Handssom Prarie appears to be a verry proper place
for a Tradeing establishment & fortification The Soil of the Bluff
well adapted for Brick, Great deel of timbers abov in the two Points. many
other advantages of a Small nature. and I am told Senteral to Several
nations Viz. one Days march from the Ottoe Town, one Day & a half from
the great Pania village, 2 days from the Mahar Towns, two 1/4 Days from
the Loups Village, & Convenient to the Countrey thro which Bands of
the Soux hunt. perhaps no other Situation is as well Calculated for a
Tradeing establishment. The air is pure and helthy So far as we can
judge.
[Clark, August 4, 1804]
August 4th at 7 oClock the heavens darkened and a violent wind from the N
W. Suckceeded which lasted about an hour, with a little rain.
Set out this morning early thro a narrow part of the, the whole Channel
Confined in Some parts between the (1) Sand on one Side & the bank on
the other (which is washing in) within 200 yards, this Chanl. Crouded with
Snags. at 11/2 m. passed an old tradeing house L. S. where one of our Crew
passed 2 years P. C tradeing with the Mahar; & Ponies-above 1 me. a
(3) Creek Coms in opsd. a large bad (2) Sand bar this (3) Creek is the
outlett of 3 ponds, which recved ther water from the Smaller Streams
running from the hills on the L. S, Great qts. of Gees, passed in the next
bend L. S. an out let to the Pond, Butifull bottom Prarie on both Sides of
the river, Pumey Stone is found on the Sides of the river of various
Sizes. Wind a head. Reed the man who went back to the Camp of last night
for his Knife has not Come up this evening-we Camped at a pt. on the L. S.
at a Beaver house. 1 Buck Killed to daye.
[Clark, August 4, 1804]
August 4th Satturdaye Set out early — (at 7 oClock last night we had a
Violent wind from the N W Som little rain Succeeded, the wind lasted with
violence for one hour after the wind it was clear Sereen and Cool all
night.) proceeded on passed thro betwen Snags which was quit across the
Rivr the Channel Confined within 200 yards one Side a Sand pt. S S. the
other a Bend, the Banks washing away & trees falling in constantly for
1 mile, abov this place is the remains of an old Tradeing establishment L.
S. where Petr. Crusett one of our hands Stayed two years & traded with
the Mahars a Short distance above is a Creek (3) the out let of Three
Ponds comunicateing with each other, those Ponds or rether Lakes are fed
by Springs & Small runs from the hills. (2) a large Sand Island
opposit this Creek makeing out from the L. Point, from the Camp of last
night to this Creek, the river has latterly Changed its bed incroaching on
the L. Side, in this Sand bar I Saw great Nos. of wild gees — passed a
Small Creek on the L. S about 3 miles above the last both of those Creek's
are out lets from the Small Lake which reive their water from the Small
Streems running from the high land — great many Pamey Stones on the
Shore of various Sises the wind blew hard — Reed a man who went back
to Camp for his knife has not joined us. we camped at a Beaver house on
the L. S.one Buck Killed to day-
[Clark, August 5, 1804]
August 5th Set out early wind from N E. Great appearance of Wind &
rain, (I have remarked that I have not heard much thunder in this
Countrey) a verry large Snake was Killed to day called the Bull Snake, his
Colour Some thing like a rattle Snake Something lighter — the bends of
the river to day is washing away the banks, haveing nothing to oppose the
turbelance of the river when Confined by large hard Sand Points, forceing
this Current against the bends — the Soil of the entire bottom between
the high land, being the mud or Ooze of the river of Some former period
mixed with Sand & Clay easely melts and Slips, or washies into the
river the mud mixes with the water & the Sand collects on the points
Camped on the S. S. — I went on Shore S. S. this evening Saw Some
turkeys and in persueing them Struk the river 12 miles below the place by
water I went out, I think the Peninsuly is about 370 yards across Subjuct
to overflow; & washes into numerous Channels, Great quantities of
Graps ripe & of three Defferent Kind Some large & fine. I Killed a
Turkey, and made Camp in the Night, Musqutors verry troubleson — Reed
the man who went back for his Knife has not yet joined us
[Clark, August 5, 1804]
5th of August Sunday 1804 Set out early great appearance of wind and rain
(I have observed that Thundor & lightning is not as common in this
Countrey as it is in the atlantic States) Snakes are not plenty, one was
killed to day large and resembling the rattle Snake only Something
lighter-. I walked on Shore this evening S. S. in Pursueing Some Turkeys I
struck the river twelve miles below within 370 yards, the high water
passes thro this Peninsulia; and agreeable to the Customary Changes of the
river I Concld. that in two years the main Current of the river will pass
through. In every bend the banks are falling in from the Current being
thrown against those bends by the Sand points which inlarges and the Soil
I believe from unquestionable appearns. of the entire bottom from one hill
to the other being the mud or ooze of the River at Some former Period
mixed with Sand and Clay easily melts and Slips into the River, and the
mud mixes with the water & the Sand is washed down and lodges on the
points — Great quantites of Grapes on the banks, I observe three
different Kinds at this time ripe, one Of the no. is large & has the
flaver of the Purple grape. camped on the S. S. the Musquitors verry
troubleson. The man who went back after his Knife has not yet come up, we
have Some reasons to believe he has Deserted
[Lewis, August 5, 1804]
August 5th 1804 Killed a serpent on the bank of the river adjoining a
large prarie.
F Inch Length from nose to tail 5 2 Circumpherence in largest part —
41/2 Number of scuta on belly — 221 Do. on Tale — 53
No pison teeth therefore think him perfectly inocent — eyes, center
black with a border of pale brown yellow Colour of skin on head yellowish
green with black specks on the extremity of the scuta which are pointed or
triangular colour of back, transverse stripes of black and dark brown of
an inch in width, succeeded by a yellowish brown of half that width the
end of the tale hard and pointed like a cock's spur the sides are speckled
with yellowish brown and black. — two roes of black spots on a lite
yellow ground pass throughout his whole length on the upper points of the
scuta of the belly and tale 1/2 Inch apart this snake is vulgarly called
the cow or bull snake from a bellowing nois which it is said sometimes to
make resembling that anamal, tho as to this fact I am unable to attest it
never having heard them make that or any other noise myself.
I have frequently observed an acquatic bird in the cours of asscending
this river but have never been able to procure one before today, this day
I was so fortunate as to kill two of them, they are here more plenty than
on the river below. they lay their eggs on the sand bars without shelter
or nest, and produce their young from the 15th to the last of June, the
young ones of which we caught several are covered with down of a yellowish
white colour and on the back some small specks of a dark brown. they bear
a great resemblance to the young quale of ten days oald, and apear like
them to be able to runabout and peck their food as soon as they are
hatched — this bird, lives on small fish, worms and bugs which it
takes on the virge of the water it is seldom seen to light on trees an
quite as seldom do they lite in the water and swim tho the foot would
indicate that they did it's being webbed I believe them to be a native of
this country and probly a constant resident.
the weight of the male bird is one ounce and a half, its length from beak
to toe 71/2 inches from tip to tip of wing across the back one foot seven
inches and a half the beak is one 1/8 inch lonong, large where it joins
the head Elated on the sides and tapering to a sharp point, a little
declining and curvated, a fine yellow, with a shade of black on the
extremity of upper beak; the eye is prominent, black and on a angular
scale of 1/2 Inc; occupyse 3 1/3 in width. the upper part of the head is
black from the beak as low as the middle of the eye and a little below the
joining of the neck except however some white which joins the upper part
of the beak which forks and passing over the sides of the forehead
terminate above each eye — the under part of the bird, that is the
throat and cheeks as high as the eye, the neck brest belly and under part
of the wings and tail are of a fine white, the upper part of the neck,
back, and wings are of a fine, quaker colour, or bright dove colour with
reather more of a bluish tint-except however the three first or larger
feathers in the wing which on upper side are of a deep black. the wing has
four joints
No. Joint Length of joint No. of feathers Length of do. 1 11/2 a Clump of
feathers not strong but loosly connect with the flesh of the wing 11/2 2 2
16 2 3 11/2 7 from 21/2 to 41/2 4 3/4 3 51/2
the tail has eleven feathers the outer of which are an inch longer than
those in the center gradually tapering inwards which gives the tale a
forked appearance like that of the swally the largest or outer feather is
23/4 that of the shortest 13/4 — the leg and thye are three inches
long the leg occupying one half this length the thye is covered with
feathers except about 1/4 of an inch above the knee the leg is of a bright
yellow and nails long sharp and black the foot is webbed and has three
toes forward; the heel or back toe is fixed to the leg above the palm of
the foot, and is unconnected by a web to the other toes, it has no nail.
the wings when foalded lap like those of the swallow and extend at least
an inch and a half beyond the tale. this bird is very noysey when flying
which is dose exttreemly swift the motion of the wing is much like that of
kildee it has two notes one like the squaking of a small pig only on
reather a high kee, and the other kit'-tee'- kit'-tee' — as near as
letters can express the sound — the beak of the female is black and
the black and quaker colour of the male in her is yellowish brown mixed
with dove colour
[Clark, August 6, 1804]
August 6th Monday 1804 at 12 oClock last night a Violent Storm of wind
& rain from the N. W. one perogue (Bapteest Le joness Patroon) lost
her Colours Set out early & proceeded on passed a large Island on the
S. S. back of this Island Rivie de Soldiert Come in on the S. S. — the
Solder's River is about the Sise of Nodaway 20 yd. wide at the mouth,
passed two remarkable places, where the River had once Passed — We
have every reason to belive that one man has Deserted Moses B. Reed he has
been absent three Days and one french man we Sent to the Indian Camps has
not joined us, we have reasons to beleve he lost himself in attempting to
join us at the Council Bluff — we are deturmind to Send back 4 men to
take reede Dead or alive, also hunt La Liberty and to meet us at the Mahar
nation as Soon as the order is executed.
[Clark, August 6, 1804]
6th August, Monday 1804 At 12 oClock last nigh a violent Storm of wind
from the N W. Some rain one pr. of Colours lost in the Storm from the bige
Perogue. Set out early and proceeded on passed a large Island on the S. S.
back of this Isd. Soldiers River mouths, I am told by one of the men that
this river is about the Size of Nadawa river 40 yards wide at the mouth.
Reed has not yet come up. neither has La Liberty the frenchman whome we
Sent to the Indian Camps a fiew miles below the Council Bluffs.
[Clark, August 7, 1804]
August 7th Tuesday last night about 8 oClock a Storm of wind from the N.
W. which lasted 3/4 of an hour mosquitors more troublesom last night than
I ever Saw them, Set out late this morning wind N.
[Clark, August 7, 1804]
7th August Tuesday 1804 last night at 8 oClock a Storm from the N W.
lasted 3/4 of an hour let out late this morning wind from the North — at
1 oClock dispatched George Drewyer, R. Fields, Wm. Bratten & Wm.
Labieche back after the Deserter reid with order if he did not give up
Peaceibly to put him to Death &c. to go to the Ottoes Village &
enquire for La Liberty and bring him to the Mahars Village, also with a
Speech on the occasion to the Ottoes & Missouries — and directing
a few of their Chiefs to come to the Mahars, & we would make a peace
between them & the Mahar and Souex, a String of wompom & a Carrot
of Tobacco. proceeded on and Camped on the S. S.
I walked on Shore with one man Collies,-the bottoms Covered with very
Collin Killed an elk, I fired 4 times at one & have reasons to think I
Kiled him but could not find him, The Misqutors were So troublesom and
Misqutors thick in the Plains that I could not Keep them out of my eyes,
with a bush. in my absens Capt Lewis Killed a Pelican on Pelicans Island,
at which place maney Hundreds had Collected, they left 3 fish which was.
fresh and very good, we camped on the S. S. in a Streght part of the
river-
[Clark, August 8, 1804]
August the 8th 1804 Set out this morning at the usial time at about 2
miles (1) passed a part of the river So choked up with Snags that we found
a little dificult to get thro with Safty, the wind as usial from the N W.
one of the Soldiers Killed a Pilican on the Sand Isd. passed the mouth of
Little (2) River de Cueoux on the S. S. this river is about 80 yards wide
& navagable for Pirogus Some distance & runs parrelel to the
Missourie it corns in from the River from the N E, it contains great
Quantitys offish Common to the Countrey. two Miles above is (3) an Island
the Channel formerly run on the right with Sand. — the Current runs to
the left. many hundreds of Pelicans on this Island — we call it
Pelican Isld. Cap Lewis Killed one This river Soux Called by the Sueoux
Ed-Neah Wau-de-pon i'e Stone R heads in three Leagues of the river Demoin,
and passes thro a Lake about 20 Legues in Sircfs. which is also within 5
Leagus of the Demoin, this lake at one place is confined by two rocks
within a narrow Space — this lake of Different widths, with many Small
Islands, from the Lake to the Mahars about distant 4 Days march to the Dog
Plains 90 Leagues, one Principal branch of the Demoin is calld. Cat river,
the Lake which this river Litt Souex heads in is Called Despree
[Clark, August 8, 1804]
8th August Wednesday 1804 Set out this morning at the usial time at two
miles passed (1) a bend to L. S. Choaked up with Snags our boat run on two
in turning to pass through, we got through with Safty the wind from N W.
(2) passed the mouth of a River on the S. Side Called by the Soux Indians
Ed-neah Wau de pon (or Stone river) the French call this river Petite
Rivre de Cuouex it is about 80 yards wide and as (Mr. Durion Says whos
been on the heads of it and the Country abt) is navagable for Perogues Som
Distance runs Parrelel to the Missourie Some Distance, then falls down
from N E thro a roleing Countrey open, the head of this river is 9 miles
from the R Demon at which place the Demoin is 80 yd wide, this Little
Cuouex passes thro a lake called Despree which is within 5 Leagues of the
Deemoin the Said Lake is about 20 Leagues in Circumfrance and is divided
into 2 by two rocks approaching Verry near each other, this Lake is of
various width, Containing many Islands- from this Lake to the Maha 4 days
march, as is Said to be near the Dog Plains one princpal branch of the
Demoin is Called Cat River The Demoin is Sholey
Capt. Lewis took Medn. Altitude of the Sun made it 56° 9' 00" Lat 41° 42'
34" and I took one man and went on Shore the man Killed an Elk I fired 4
times at one & did not Kill him, my ball being Small I think was the
reason, the misqutors So bad in the Praries that with the assistance of a
bush I could not Keep them out of my eyes, the boat turned Several tims to
day on Sand bars — in my absenc the boat passed a Island 2 miles above
the litte Scouex R on the upper point of the Isld Some hundreds of
Pelicans were Collected, they left 3 fish on the Sand which was verry
fine, Capt Lewis Killed one & took his dimentions, I joined the boat
and we Camped on the S S.
worthe of remark that Snakes are not plenty in this part of the Missourie
[Lewis, August 8, 1804]
August 8th 1804 we had seen but a few aquatic fouls of any kind on the
river since we commenced our journey up the Missouri, a few geese
accompanied by their young, the wood duck which is common to every part of
this country & crains of several kinds which will be discribed in
their respective places — this day after we had passed the river Souix
as called by Mr. MacKay (or as is more properly called the stone river,) I
saw a great number of feathers floating down the river those feathers had
a very extraordinary appearance as they appeared in such quantities as to
cover pretty generally sixty or seventy yards of the breadth of the river.
for three miles after I saw those feathers continuing to run in that
manner, we did not percieve from whence they came, at length we were
surprised by the appearance of a flock of Pillican at rest on a large sand
bar attatched to a small Island the number of which would if estimated
appear almost in credible; they apeared to cover several acres of ground,
and were no doubt engaged in procuring their ordinary food; which is fish,
on our approach they flew and left behind them several small fish of about
eight inches in length, none of which I had seen before — the Pellican
rested again on a sand bar above the Island which we called after them
from the number we saw on it. we now approached them within about three
hundred yards before they flew; I then fired at random among the flock
with my rifle and brought one down; the discription of this bird is as
follows.
Habits
They are a bird of clime remain on the coast of Floriday and the borders
of the Gulph of mexico & even the lower portion of the Mississippi
during the winter and in the Spring (see for date my thermometrical
observations at the river Dubois.) visit this country and that farther
north for the purpose of raising their young — this duty seems now to
have been accomplished from the appearance of a young Pilacon which was
killed by one of our men this morning, and they are now in large flocks on
their return to their winter quarters. they lay usually two eggs only and
chuise for a nest a couple of logs of drift wood near the water's edge and
with out any other preperation but the thraught formed by the proximity of
those two logs which form a trough they set and hatch their young which
after nurture with fish their common food
Measure
| |
Feet | Inches |
| From beak to toe | 5 | 8 |
| Tip to tip of wing | 9 | 4 |
| Beak Length | 1 | 3 |
| Do. Width | 2 to 1 1/2 | |
| Neck Length | 1 | 11 |
| 1st joint of wing | 1 | 1 |
| 2ed Do. | 1 | 4 1/2 |
| 3rd Do. | — - | 7 |
| 4th do. | — - 2 3/4
|
| Length of leg including foot | 10
|
| Do. of thy | 11
|
Discription of Colour &c
The beak is a whiteish yellow the under part connected to a bladder like
pouch, this pounch is connected to both sides of the lower beak and
extends down on the under side of the neck and terminates in the stomach — this
pouch is uncovered with feathers, and is formed two skins the one on the
inner and the other on the center side a small quantity of flesh and
strings of which the anamal has at pleasure the power of moving or drawing
in such manner as to contract it at pleasure. in the present subject I
measured this pouch and found it's contents 5 gallons of water
The feet are webbed large and of a yellow colour, it has four toes the
hinder toe is longer than in most aquatic fouls, the nails are black, not
sharp and 1/2 an inch in length
The plumage generally is white, the feathers are thin compared with the
swan goose or most aquatick fouls and has but little or no down on the
body. the upper part of the head is covered with black feathers short, as
far as the back part of the head — the yellow skin unfeathered extends
back from the upper beak and opening of the mouth and comes to a point
just behind the eye
The large feathers of the wings are of a deep black colour — the 1st
& 2nd joint of from the body above the same is covered with a second
layer of white feathers which extend quite half the length of those large
feathers of the wing — the thye is covered with feathers within a
quarter of an inch of the knee.
| | Inch |
| 1st joint of wing has feathers No. 21 | Length 9 Black |
| 2ed Do. No. 17 | Length 13 Inch |
| 3rd Do. No. 5 | Length 18 Inch |
| 4th Do. No. 3 | Length 19 Inch |
it has a curious frothy substance which seems to devide its feathers from
the flesh of the body and seems to be composes of globles of air and
perfectly imbraces the part of the feather which extends through the
skin.the wind pipe terminates in the center of the lower part of the upper
and unfeathered part of the pouch and is secured by an elastic valve
commanded at pleasure.
The green insect known in the U States by the name of the sawyer or
chittediddle, was first heard to cry on the 27th of July, we were then in
latitude 41° some minutes.
The prarie hen or grouse, was seen in the praries between the Missouri and
the river platte
[Clark, August 9, 1804]
9th Augt Thursday 1804 The fog of this morning detained us untill 1/2
passed 7 oClock at which time we left our moreing and proceeded on under a
gentle Breeze from the S. E, I went on Shore found the Land the Same as
yesterday Killed a Turkey and Camped on the L. S. great deel of Beaver
Sign to day one Beaver Cought Musquetors worse this evening than ever I
have Seen them.
[Clark, August 9, 1804]
9th August Thursday 1804 The fog being thick detained us untile half pasd.
7 oClock at which time we Set out and proceeded on under Gentle Breeze
from the S E I walked on Shore, Saw an Elk, crossed a Istmust of 3/4 of a
mile to the river, & returned to the boat Camped on the L. S. above a
Beaver Den. Musqutors verry troubleson.
[Clark, August 11, 1804]
August 11th Satturday 1804 about day this morning a hard wind from the N.
W. followed by rain, we landed at the foot of the hill on which Black Bird
The late King of the mahar who Died 4 years ago & 400 of his nation
with the Small pox was buried (1) and went up and fixed a white flag bound
with Blue white & read on the Grave which was about 12 foot Base &
circueller, on the top of a Penical about 300 foot above the water of the
river, from the top of this hill may be Seen the bends or meanderings of
the river for 60 or 70 miles round & all the County around the base of
this high land is a Soft Sand Stone Bluff of about 40 or 150 foot, the
Crooked, passed a Creek Called Wau-Con di peche C or Bad God Creek of bad
Spirits on the L. S above the Bluff on this Creek the Mahars had the Small
pox 4 years ago, Lattitude 42° 1'3" 8/10 taken on the Point above the
Creek. the river is verry Crooked, we are now within 3/4 of a mile of the
river at a place we Shall not get around to untill tomorrow noon — We
er 3 Legues from the Mahars by land and the great deel of Beaver sign
induce a belief that those people do not hunt much.
I have observed a number of places where the river has Changd its Bead at
different times
[Clark, August 11, 1804]
11th August Satturday 1804. about day light this Morning a hard wind from
the N W. with Some rain proceeded on arround the right of the Isld.
a hard wind accompanied with rain from the S. E. after the rain was over
Capt. Lewis myself & 10 men assended the Hill on the L. S. under which
there was Some fine Springs to the top of a high point where the Mahars
King Black Bird was burried 4 years ago. a mound of earth about 12
Diamuter at the base & 6 feet high is raised over him turfed, and a
pole 8 feet high in the Center on this pole we fixed a white flage bound
with red Blue & white; this hill about 300 feet above the water
forming a Bluff between that & the Water of Various hight from 40 to
150 feet in hight yellow Soft Sand Stone from the tops of this Nole the
river may be Seen Meandering for 60 or 70 Miles, we Decended & Set out
N. 24 to W. 1/2 me. passing over a Sand bar on the S. pt. along the
Willows. to the river opposit a Small Beyeau on the L. S. which is the
Conveyance of the high water from a bend which appears near in a northerly
direction, haveing passed a Creek in a Deep bend to the L. S. Called by
the Mahars Wau can di Peeche (Great Spirrit is bad) on this Creek &
Hills near it about 400 of the Mahar Died with the Small Pox- Took Medn.
Altitude & made the Latd. 42° 1' 3" 8/10 N. also the Moons Distanc
from the Sun I have observed a number of places where the River has onced
run and now filled or filling up & growing with willows &
cottonwood
[Clark, August 12, 1804]
12th August Sunday 1804 a South wind We Set out early the river wider than
usial, and Shallow, at 12 we halted in a bend to the left to take the
Meridian altitude, & Dine, & Sent one man across where we took
Dinner yesterday to Step off the Distance across Isthmus, he made it 974
yards, and the bend around is 183/4 miles above this bend about 4 miles, a
yellow & Brown Bluff Comnuces and Continus 3 or 4 miles on the L. S.
this Bluff has Some Sand Stone, Some rich Black mole mixed with yellow
Clay, a fiew Red Ceeder on the tope, which is, from 20 to 150 foot high
the hill Still riseing back, I think may be estemated at 200 foot on the
top is timber, the wind for a few hours this evening was hard and from the
S. E. In the evening about 5 oClock Cap L. & My Self wen on Shore to
Shoot a Prarie wolf which was barking at us as we passed This Prarie Wolf
barked like a large fest and is not much larger, the Beaver is verry
plenty, not with Standing we are almost in Sight of the Mahar Town — Cought
a verry Large Catfish this morniong, prepared the Indian present which we
intend given to the Mahars. P. Wiser apt. Cook to Serjt. Floyds Squad from
to day
[Clark, August 12, 1804]
12th August Sunday 1804 Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the South
the river wider than usial and Shallow (1) at 12 oClock we halted to take
a meridian altd. of the Sun & Sent a man back or I may Say across to
the Bind of the river where Capt. Lewis took the Mdn. altitude yesterday,
to Step off the distance, he made it 974 yards across, the Distance
arround the bend is 183/4 miles — about 4 miles above the bend on the
L. S. is the Commencement of a Bluff which is about 4 miles extending on
the river, of yellow and brown Clay in Some parts in it near the river a
Soft Sand Stone is inbeded on the top (which is from 20 to 150 feet above
the water, & rises back) is Covered with timber, a fiew red Ceider is
on this Bluff, the wind Comes round to the S. E. a Prarie Wolf Come near
the bank and Barked at us this evening, we made an attempt but could not
git him, this Animale Barkes like a large feste Dog. Beever is verry
Plenty on this part of the river. I prepare Some presents for to give the
Indians of the Mahars nation. Wiser apt. Cook & Supentdt. of the
Provisions of Sergt. Floyds Squad. we Camped on a Sand Island in a bend to
the S. S. Musquitors verry troublesom untile the wind rose. at one or 2
oClock
[Clark, August 13, 1804]
13th of August Munday 1804. Set out this morning at Day light the usial
time and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. passed the
Island.
From this Fish Camp the River is N 55° West as far as Can be Seen, the
Sand bar only changeing the Derection of the Current the Hills leave the
river on the L. Side
[Clark, August 13, 1804]
August 13th Monday 1804 Set out this morning at Light the usial time and
proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S E
[Clark, August 14, 1804]
14th of August at 12 oClock the Party Sent yesterday to the Towns
returned, and informed that they Could not find any Indians, they had not
returned from hunting the Buffalow in the Praries, wind Shifted to the N
W. Our party Sent after the Deserter and to the Otteau towns, have not
Came up as yet
The Situation of this Village, now in ruins Siround by enunbl. hosts of
grave the ravages of the Small Pox (4 years ago) they follow the Buf. and
tend no Corn
[Clark, August 14, 1804]
14th August Tuesday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S E The men Sent to
the Mahar Town last evening has not returned we Conclude to Send a Spye to
Know the cause of Their delay at about 12 oClock the Party returned and
in-formed. us that they Could not find the Indians nor any fresh Sign,
those people have not returned from their Buffalow hunt, Those people
haveing no houses no Corn or any thing more than the graves of their
ancesters to attach them to the old Village, Continue in pursuite of the
Buffalow longer than others who had greater attachments to their native
Villagethe ravages of the Small Pox (which Swept off 400 men & women
& Children in perpoposion) has reduced this Nation not exceeding 300
men and left them to the insults of their weaker neighbours which before
was glad to be on friendly turms with them — I am told whin this fatal
malady was among them they Carried ther franzey to verry extroadinary
length, not only of burning their Village, but they put their wives &
Children to Death with a view of their all going together to Some better
Countrey — They burry their Dead on the tops of high hills and rais
mounds on the top of them, — The cause or way those people took the
Small Pox is uncertain, the most Probable from Some other Nation by means
of a warparty
Observed Time and Distance of the Sun & Moon the Moon East the 13th of
August Monday 1804, three Miles NE of the Mahars old village at Fish Camp-
[Clark, August 15, 1804]
August 15th Wendesday I took ten men & went out to Beaver Dam across a
Creek about a mile S W from Camp, and with a Brush Drag caught 308 fish,
of the following kind (i'e) Pike, Samon, Bass, Pirch, Red horse, Small
Cat, & a kind of Perch Called on the Ohio Silverfish I also Caught the
Srimp which is Common to the Lower part of the Mississippi, in this Creek
& in the Beaver Pond is emince beads of Mustles Verry large & fat — in
my absence Capt Lewis Send the Souex interpr & a party to a Smoke
which appeared to rise at no great distance to the north with a view to
find Some Band of that nation, they returned and informed that they had
been made Some time by Some Small party, and the hard wind of to day had
set the Prarie on fire from Some high trees, which was left burning all
well, Party from Ottoes not come up.
Camp three Miles N. E of the Mahar Village
[Clark, August 15, 1804]
August 15th Wednesday 1804 I went with ten men to a Creek Damed by the
Beavers about half way to the Village, with Some Small willow & Bark
we mad a Drag and haulted up the Creek, and Cought 318 fish of different
kind i'e Peke, Bass, Salmon, perch, red horse, Small Cat, and a kind of
perch Called Silverfish, on the Ohio. — I cought a Srimp prosisely of
Shape Size & flavour of those about N. Orleans & the lower party
of the Mississippi in this Creek which is only the pass or Streight from
Beaver Pond to another, is Crouded with large Mustles Verry fat, Ducks,
Pliver of different Kinds are on those Ponds as well as on the river in My
absence Capt. Lewis Sent Mr. Durioue the Souix interpeter & three men
to examine a fire which threw up an emence Smoke from the Praries on the
N. E. Side of the River and at no great distance from Camp — the
Object of this party was to find Some Bands of Seouex which the inptr.
thought was near the Smoke and get them to Come in — in the evening
this Party returned and infoermed, that the fire arrose from Some trees
which had been left burning by a Small party of Seoux whom had passed
Several Days — the wind Setting from that point, blew the Smoke from
that pt. over our Camp. our party all in health and Sperrits the men Sent
to the Ottoes & in pursute of the Deserter Reed has not yet returned
or joined our party.
[Clark, August 16, 1804]
Aug. 16th 1804 a Verry cool morning the winds as usial from the N W. Capt
Lewis with men went out to the Creek & Pond & Caught about 800
fine fish with a Bush Drag of the following kind i.e. 79 Pike, 8 Salmon, 1
Rock, 1 flat Back, 127 Buffalow & readHorse, 4 Bass & 490 Cat,
with many Small & large Silver fish, — I had a mast made &
fixed to day The Party Sent to the Ottoes not yet arrived. the wind
Shifted around to the S E. the night's are Cool & a Breeze rises after
generally; Sometimes before night which Blows off the Musquitors cools the
atmospere.
[Clark, August 16, 1804]
16th August Thursday 1804 Fishing Camp 3 ms. N. E. of the Mahars. a verry
cool morning the wind as usial from the N W.
Capt Lewis took 12 men & went to the Pond & Crek between Camp and
the old Village and Cought upwards of Boo fine fish, 79 Pike, 8 Salmon, 1
Rock,flat Back, 127 Buffalow & red horse 4 Bass & 490 Catt. with
many Small Silver fish I had a Mast made &fixed to the Boat to day,
the Party Sent to the Ottoes not yet joined us — the wind Shifted
arround to the S. E. everry evening a Breeze rises which blows off the
Musquitors & Cools the atmispeire.
[Clark, August 17, 1804]
17th August 1804. a fine morning Wind from the S. E. I will here annex the
Latds & Distances of the Different notable placies from the River
Dubois or Mouth up.
The Longitudes are not yet Calculated, We must be at this time about 99°
45' 00" West of Greenwich — I Collected a grass much resembling wheet
with a grain like Rye, much fuller of grain, one like Rye & one like
Barley Grass Small, a Grass like Timothey except the Seed which is on
branches from the main Stalk-
Late this evening one of the party Sent after the deserters returned &
joined us, he left the party 3 miles back, they cought both Deserters, one
of them La liberty, got away from them, the Great Chief & 2nd Chief of
the ottoes accompaned the Party with a view to bring about a Peice between
themselves & the Mahar a great missfortune that the Mahars have not
returned from the hunt — Sent & fiered the Prarie near Camp to
bring in the Mahars & Souex if any are near. a Cool evening, 2 Beever
Cought
[Clark, August 17, 1804]
17th August Friday 1804. a fine Morning the wind from the S. E. I
collected a grass much resembling wheat in its grouth the grain like Rye,
also Some resembling Rye & Barly. a kind of Timothey, the Seed of
which branches from the main Stalk & is more like flax Seed than that
of a Timothey
at 6 oClock this evening Labieche one of the Party Sent to the Ottoes
joined, and informed that the Party was behind with one of the Deserters M
B. Reed and the 3 principal Chiefs of the Nations — La Liberty they
cought but he decived them and got away — the object of those Chiefs
comeing forward is to make a peace with the Mahars thro us-. as the Mahars
are not at home this great object cannot be accomplished at this time Set
the Praries on fire to bring the Mahars & Soues if any were near, this
being the usial Signal.
a Cool evining two Beaver Cought to day.
[Clark, August 18, 1804]
18th August 1804 a fine morning, despatched Jo. Fields for the Party from
the Ottoes, whom did not Come up last night Wind from the S. E. (Panies
returned from their hunt, the 12th of August) in the after Part of the Day
the Party arrived, we had a Short talk after which we gave them Provisions
to eate & proceeded to the trial of Reed, he confessed, & we
Sentenced him only to run the Ganelet four times thro the Detachment &
party, and not to be considered in the future as one of the Permonant
Party, after the Punihment of about 500 Lashes, at night we had Some talk
with the Chiefs about the Cause of War between them and the Mahars.
posponed the further consultation untill tomorrow. had a Dance which
lasted untile 11 oClock, the Close of Cap Lewis Birthday. a fine evening
wind S. E
Sent to the Towns, i e Reiubin Fields Will. Brattin G. Drewyer & W
Labieche.
[Clark, August 18, 1804]
18th August Satday 1804 a fine morning. Wind from the S. E. in the after
part of the Day the Party with the Indians arrivd. we meet them under a
Shade near the Boat and after a Short talk we gave them Provisions to eat
& proceeded to the trail of Reed, he Confessed that he "Deserted &
Stold a public Rifle Shot-pouch Powder & Bals" and requested we would
be as favourable with him as we Could consistantly with our Oathes-which
we were and only Sentenced him to run the Gantlet four times through the
Party & that each man with 9 Swichies Should punish him and for him
not to be considered in future as one of the Party
The three principal Chiefs petitioned for Pardin for this man After we
explained the injurey Such men could doe them by false representation,
& explang. the Customs of our Countrey they were all Satisfied with
the propriety of the Sentence & was witness to the punishment. after
which we had Some talk with the Chiefs about the orrigan of the war
between them & the Mahars &c. &c. — it commenced in this
way i'e' in two of the Missouries Tribe resideing with the Ottoes went to
the Mahars to Steel horses, they Killed them both which was a cause of
revenge on the part of the Missouris & Ottoes, they also brought war
on themselves Nearly in the Same way with the Panea Loups and they are
greatly in fear of a just revenge from the Panies for takeing their Corn
from the Pania Towns in their absence hunting this Summer.
the evening was Closed with an extra Gill of Whiskey & a Dance untill
11 oClock.
[Clark, August 19, 1804]
19th of August Sunday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S. E I prepd. a
present from the Chiefs & Warriers, the main Chief Brack fast with us
naked; & beged for a Sun glass. — at 10 oClock we assembled the
Cheifs & Warriers under an Orning and delivered a Speech, explanitary
of the One Sent to this Nation from the Council Bluff, &c. &c.
Children When we Sent the 4 men to your towns, we expected to See &
Speake with the Mahas by the time you would arrive and to lay the
foundation of a peace between you and them
The Speech of Petieit Villeu Little Thief, If you think right and Can
waite untill all our Warriers Come from the Buffalows hunt, we Can then
tell you who is our men of Consequnce — My fathers always lived with
the father of the B together & we always live with the Big hose-all
the men here are the Suns of Chief and will be glad to get Something from
the hands of their fathers. — My father always directed me to be
friendly with the white people, I have always done So and went often to
the french, give my party pieces of Paper & we will be glad — The
names
a Meddel to Car ka pa ha or Crow's head
a Comsi or Cfte. Sar na no ne or Iron Eyes a Ottoe approves & says he
is Brave Nee Swor un ja Big ax a Ottoe approves Star gra hun ja Big blue
Eyes a Ottoe Delivers up his comm Ne ca sa wa-Black Cat a Missouris
approves the Council & he wants paper for his men at home, he after
wards came & petitioned for his Paper War-sar sha co-Brave Man aproves
The Speach of the Big Horse I went to the hunt Buffalow I heard your word
and I returned, I and all my men with me will attend to your wordsyou want
to make peace with all, I want to make peace also, the young men when they
want to go to war where is the goods you give me to Keep them at home, if
you give me Some Whisky to give a Drop to my men at home.
I came here naked and must return home naked. if I have Something to give
the young men I can prevent their going to war. You want to make peace
with all, It is good we want Something to give my men at home. I am a pore
man, and cant quiet without means, a Spoon ful of your milk will quiet
all.
2nd Speech of the Little Thief I want Mr. Faufon & Mr. La bieche to
make a piece with the Panies Loups. I want William to go & make a
piece with the Loups, he can Speake english & will doe will to go. — refused
that William LaBiech shall accompany Faufon
Those people were not well Satisfied with the Presents given them, they
were much Surprised at the air gun and Several curiosities which were
Shown them none more than the magnet, those people became extreemly
troublesom to us begging Whisky & little articles. Sergt. Floyd was
taken violently bad with the Beliose Cholick and is dangerously ill we
attempt in Vain to releive him, I am much concerned for his Situation- we
could get nothing to Stay on his Stomach a moment nature appear exosting
fast in him every man is attentive to him york prlly
[Clark, August 19, 1804]
19th August Sunday 1804 a find morning wind from the S. E. prepared a
Small Present for the Cheifs and warriers present. the main Cheif
Brackfast with us, & beged for a Sun glass, those People are all
naked, Covered only with Breech Clouts Blankits or Buffalow Roabes, the
flesh Side Painted of Differant Colours & figures. At 10 oClock we
assembled the Chiefs & warriers 9 in number under an orning, and we
explained the Speech Sent to the nation from the Council Bluffs by Mr.
Faufon. The 3 Chiefs and all the men or warriers made Short Speeches
approveing the advice & Council their great father had Sent them, and
Concluded by giveing themselves Some Credit for their acts.
We then brought out the presents and exchanged the Big horses Meadel &
gave him one equal to the one Sent to the Little Thief & gave all Some
Small articls & 8 Carrots of Tobacco, we gave one Small Meadel to one
of the Cheifs & a Sertificate to the others of their good intentions.
Names
The Little Theif Grd. Cheif I have mentioned before
The Big horse
Crows Head (or) Kar Ka paha — Missory
Black Cat (or) Ne ma Sa wa — do
Iron Eyes (or) Sar na no no — Ottoe
Big ax (or) Nee Swar Un ja — do
Big Blue Eyes — Star gea Hun ja — do
Brave Man (or) War Sar Sha co
One of those Indians after reciving his Certificate delivd. it again to me
the Big blue eyes the Chief petitioned for the Ctft. again, we would not
give the Certft. but rebuked them verry roughly for haveing in object
goods and not peace with their neighbours — this language they did not
like at first, but at length all petitioned for us to give back the
Certificate to the Big blu eyes he came forward and made a plausible
excuse, I then gave the Certificate the Great Cheif to bestow it to the
most Worthey, they gave it to him, we then gave them a,Dram & broke up
the Council, the Chiefs requested we would not leave them this evening. we
deturmed to Set out early in the morning we Showed them many Curiosities
and the air gun which they were much asstonished at. those people beged
much for wishey — Serjeant Floyd is taken verry bad all at one with a
Beliose Chorlick we attempt to relieve him without Success as yet, he gets
wordse and we are muc allarmed at his Situation, all attention to him.
[Clark, August 20, 1804]
20th August Monday after gieving faufon Some goods the Indians a Canister
of whiskey, we Set out under a jentle Breeze from the S. E Shields went
with the horses — I am Dull & heavy been up the greater Part of
last night with Serjt. Floyd, who is as bad as he can be to live the
motion of his bowels having changed &c. &c. is the Cause of his
violent attack &c. &c.
we Came to make a warm bath for Sergt. Floyd hopeing it would brace him a
little, before we could get him in to this bath he expired, with a great
deel of composure, haveing Said to me before his death that he was going
away and wished me to write a letter — we Buried him to the top of a
high round hill over looking the river & Countrey for a great distance
Situated just below a Small river without a name to which we name &
call Floyds river, the Bluffs Sergts. Floyds Bluff-we buried him with all
the honors of War, and fixed a Ceeder post at his head with his name title
& Day of the month and year Capt Lewis read the funeral Service over
him after paying everry respect to the Body of this desceased man (who had
at All times given us proofs of his impatiality Sincurity to ourselves and
good will to Serve his Countrey) we returned to the Boat & proceeded
to the Mouth of the little river 30 yd. wide & Camped a butifull
evening
[Clark, August 20, 1804]
20th August Monday 1804 Sergeant Floyd much weaker and no better. Made Mr.
Fauforn the interpter a fiew presents, and the Indians a Canister of
whisky we Set out under a gentle breeze from the S. E. and proceeded on
verry well- Serjeant Floyd as bad as he can be no pulse & nothing will
Stay a moment on his Stomach or bowels
Passed two Islands on the S. S. and at first Bluff on the S S. Serj. Floyd
Died with a great deel of Composure, before his death he Said to me, "I am
going away. I want you to write me a letter" — We buried him on the
top of the bluff 1/2 Miles below a Small river to which we Gave his name,
he was buried with the Honors of War much lamented; a Seeder post with the
(1) Name Sergt. C. Floyd died here 20th of August 1804 was fixed at the
head of his grave — This Man at all times gave us proofs of his
firmness and Deturmined resolution to doe Service to his Countrey and
honor to himself after paying all the honor to our Decesed brother we
Camped in the mouth of floyds river about 30 yards wide, a butifull
evening.
[Clark, August 21, 1804]
21st August Tuesday we Set out verry early this morning under a Gentle
Breeze from the S. E Course S. 82° E 3 mes to the upper pt. of a Bluff on
the S. S. passed Willow Creek and Some rock below the mouth of the Seouex
river on the Starboard Side those Clifts are about 170 feet high, this
river heads with the St. peters and is navagable 75 Leagues (by the act.
of Mr. Durien) to a fall of near 200 for, 2 large & Som Small Pitchs
below the falls on the right a Creek corns in on which the red pipe Stone
is percured, & in the praries about, a place of Peace with all
nations.
[Clark, August 21, 1804]
21st August Tuesday 1804 We Set out verry early this morning and proceeded
on under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. passed willow creek Small on the
S. S. below a Bluff of about 170 feet high and one 1/2 mes. above Floyds
river at 11/2 miles higher & above the Bluff passed the Soues River S.
S. this River is about the Size of Grand river and as Mr. Durrien our
Scones intptr. says "navagable to the falls 70 or 80 Leagues and above
these falls" Still further, those falls are 200 feet or there abouts &
has two princapal pitches, and heads with the St. peters passing the head
of the Demoien, on the right below the falls a Creek Coms in which passes
thro Clifts of red rock which the Indians make pipes of, and when the
different nations Meet at those queries all is piece, passed a place in a
Prarie on the L. S. where the Mahars had a Village formerly. the Countrey
above the Platt R has a great Similarity. Campd. on the L. Side. Clouds
appear to rise in the west & threten wind. I found a verry excellent
froot resembling the read Current, the Scrub on which it grows resembles
Privey & about the Common hight of a wild plumb-
The two men Sent with the horses has not joined us as yet
[Clark, August 22, 1804]
22nd of August Wendesday 1804 Set out early wind from the South. G Shannon
joined the Boat last night. Course this morning is S 47° W. 11/4 on the S.
point West 11/4 me. to the Commencement of a Bluff on the L. S. the High
land near the river for Some distance below. This Bluff contain Pyrites
alum, Copperass & a Kind Markesites also a clear Soft Substance which
will mold and become pliant like wax) Capt lewis was near being Poisened
by the Smell in pounding this Substance I belv to be arsenic or Cabalt. I
observe great Quantity of Cops. ans and almin pure & Straters of white
& brown earth of 6 Inch thick. a Creek Corns in above the Bluffs on
which there is great quantities of those minerals, This Creek I call
Roloje a at those Allom banks Shields joined in with two Deer
Camped on the S. S. a Great Deel of Elk Sign fresh Capt. Lewis took a Dost
of Salts this evening to carry off the effects of (arsenec) or cobalt
which he was trying to find out the real quallity (2) passed a Clift of
Rock much impregnated with alum, Containing also a great quantity of
Cabalt
ordered a Vote of the men for a Sergeant of the three highest numbers a
choice to be made Gass Bratton & Gibson — Gass is worth remark,
that my Ink after Standing in the pot 3 or four days Soaks up & becons
thick
[Clark, August 22, 1804]
22nd August Friday 1804 Set out early wind from the South at three miles
we landed at a Bluff where the two men Sent with the horses were waiting
with two Deer, by examonation of this (1) Bluff Contained alum, Copperas,
Cobalt, Pyrites; a alum rock Soft & Sand Stone. Capt. Lewis in
proveing the quality of those minerals was near poisoning himself by the
fumes & tast of the Cabalt which had the appearance of Soft Isonglass — Copperas
& alum is verry pure, Above this Bluff a Small Creek Coms in from the
L. S. passing under the Clifts for Several miles, this Creek I Call Roloje
a name I learned last night in my Sleep. (2) Eight) Seven miles above is a
Clift of Allom Stone of a Dark Brown Colr. Containing also in crusted in
the Crevices & Shelves of the rock great qts. of Cabalt, Semented
Shels & a red earth. from this the (3) river bends to the East and is
within 3 or 4 miles of the River Soues at the place where that river Coms
from the high land into the Low Prarie & passes under the foot of
those Hills to its mouth.
Capt Lewis took a Dost of Salts to work off the effects of the Arsenic, we
Camped on the S. S. Sailed the greater part of this day with a hard wind
from the S. E. great deel of Elk Sign, and great appearance of wind from
the N. W.
ordered a vote for a Serjeant to chuse one of three which may be the
highest number the highest numbers are P. Gass had 19 Votes, Bratten &
Gibson
[Clark, August 23, 1804]
23rd August Thursday 1804 Set out this morning verry early, the two men R.
Fields & Shannon did not Come up last night, I went out and Killed a
fine Buck, J. Fields Killed a Buffaloes, 2 Elk Swam by the boat whilst I
was out and was not Killed, many guns fired at it R. Fields Came up with
the horses & brought two Deer, Collins Killed a Small doe, Several
Prarie wolves Seen Course West 4 Mls. to the mouth of a Small run between
two Bluffs of yellow Clay North 31/4 miles to the upper Pt. of Some timber
in the bend to S. S. near where R. fields Killed the Buffalow passed the
pt. of High Land on S. S at 1/4 of a mile, Capt. Lewis went out with 8 men
& brought the buffalow to the river at this bend, C. Lewis Killed a
Goose, wind blew hard of the flying Sands which rasies like a Cloud of
Smoke from the Bars when the wind Blows, the Sand being fine and
containing a breat perpotion of earth and when it lights it Sticks to
every thing it touches at this time the grass is white S 48° 3 miles to a
point of willows on the S. S. haveing passed the Sand Island L. S Camped
on the L S above the Island Saw an elk Standing on a Sand bar. Shields
Shot it thro the neck 101/4
[Clark, August 23, 1804]
23rd August Thursday 1804 Set out this morning verry early the two men
with the horses did not Come up last night I walked on Shore & Killed
a fat Buck — J. Fields Sent out to hunt Came to the Boat and informed
that he had Killed a Buffalow in the plain a head Cap Lewis took 12 men
and had the buffalow brought to the boat in the next bend to the S S. 2
Elk Swam the river, and was fired at from the boat R. Fields came up with
the Horses and brought two Deer one Deer Killed from the Boat. Several
Prarie Wolves Seen to day Saw Elk Standing on the Sand bar
The Wind blew hard West and raised the Sands off the bar in Such Clouds
that we Could Scercely See this Sand being fine and verry light Stuck to
every thing it touched, and in the Plain for a half a mile the distance I
was out every Spire of Grass was covered with the Sand or Dust We Camped
on the L. S. above a Sand Island one Beaver Cought
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
24th August Friday 1804. Some rain last night & this morning, we Set
out at the usial time and proceeded on the Same Course of last night
Continued S. 48° W. 21/4 mes. to the Commencement of a Blue Clay Bliff on
LS. about 180 or 190 feet high West under rugged Bluffs 13/4 ms. passing
Several Small Dreens, falling into the river those Bluffs has been lately
on fire and is yet verry Hott, Great appearance of Coal, & imence
quantities of Cabalt in Side of that part oft the Bluff which Sliped in,
on the Sides of the hill great quanities of a kind of Current or froot
resembling the Current in appearance much richer and finer flavd. grows on
a Scrub resembling a Damsen and is now fine and makes a Delightful) Tart
above this Bluff I took my Servent and a french boy I have and walked on
Shore I killed a Deer which york Packed on his back In the evening I
Killed two Buck Elk and wounded two others which I could not pursue by the
Blood as my ball was So Small to bleed them well, my boys each Shot an elk — it
was late and I Crossed a Point Struck the river above and halted the boat
and 12 men went out brought in the meat all the after part of the day it
rained we are all wet. Capt Lewis and my Self Concluded to visit a High
Hill Situated in an emence Plain three Leagues N. 20° W. from the mouth of
White Stone river, this hill appear to be of a Conic form and by all the
different Nations in this quater is Supposed to be a place of Deavels ors
that they are in human form with remarkable large heads and about 18
inches high; that they are very watchfull and ar armed with Sharp arrows
with which they can kill at a great distance; they are said to kill all
persons who are so hardy as to attemp to approach the hill; they state
that tradition informs them that many indians have suffered by these
little people and among others that three Maha men fell a sacrefice to
their murceyless fury not meany years since — so much do the Mahas
Souix Ottoes and other neibhbouring nations believe this fable that no
consideration is sufficient to induce them to approach this hill.
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
24th August Friday 1804 Some rain last night, a Continuation this morning;
we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on the Course of last night to
the (1) Commencement of a blue Clay Bluff of 180 or 190 feet high on the
L. S. Those Bluffs appear to have been laterly on fire, and at this time
is too hot for a man to bear his hand in the earth at any debth, gret
appearance of Coal. An emence quantity of Cabalt or a Cristolised
Substance which answers its discription is on the face of the Bluff- Great
quantities of a kind of berry resembling a Current except double the Sise
and Grows on a bush like a Privey, and the Size of a Damsen deliciously
flavoured & makes delitefull Tarts, this froot is now ripe, I took my
Servent and a french boy and Walked on Shore Killed Two Buck Elks and a
faun, and intersepted the Boat and had all the meat butchered and in by
Sun Set at which time it began to rain and rained hard, Cap Lewis & my
Self walk out & got Verry wet, a Cloudey rainey night, — In my
absence the Boat Passed a Small (2) River Called by the Indians White
Stone River. this river is about 30 yards wide and runs thro a Plain &
Prarie in its whole Course In a northerley direction from the mouth of
this Creek in an imence Plain a high Hill is Situated, and appears of a
Conic form and by the different nations of Indians in this quarter is
Suppose to be the residence of Deavels. that they are in human form with
remarkable large heads and about 18 Inches high, that they are Very
watchfull, and are arm'd with Sharp arrows with which they Can Kill at a
great distance; they are Said to Kill all persons who are So hardy as to
attempt to approach the hill; they State that tradition informs them that
many Indians have Suffered by those little people and among others three
Mahar men fell a Sacrefise to their murceyless fury not many years Since — So
much do the Maha, Souis, Ottoes and other neighbouring nations believe
this fable that no Consideration is Suffecient to induce them to apporach
the hill
[Lewis, August 24, 1804]
Friday, August 24th This day the Chronometer stoped again just after being
wound up; I know not the cause, but fear it procedes from some defect
which it is not in my power to remedy.
[Clark, August 24, 1804]
(1) About the center of this Sand Island the river of white Stone (as
Called by Mr. Evins Kenvill R.) falls in on the Stard. Side it appear to
be about 25 or 30 yards Wide; at the mouth of this river 10 Indians had
latterly cross Supposed be be Soues, the part of a band which are at war
with the Mahars, This Soues nation are divided into bands Som 100 to 500
men in a band at peace with eath other, ther Interest & prejudices
different, for instance one band the most envetterate enimy of the mahars,
all the other Bands in the greatest harmony with that nation and even go
with thim to War, those Soues, follow the Buffalow, & Kill them on
foot, they pack their Dogs, which carry ther Bedn.
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
Augt. 25th Satturday 1804 This morning Capt Lewis & my Self G D. Sjt.
Ouderway Shields J. Fields colter Bratten Cane Labeeche corp Wovington
Frasure & York Set out to Visit this mountain of evel Spirits, we Set
out from the mouth of the White Stone Creek, at 8 oClock, at 4 miles Cross
the Creek in an open plain, at 7 ms. the dog gave out & we Sent him
back to the Creek at 12 oClock we rose the hill Some time before we got to
the hill we obsevd. great numbers of Birds hovering about the top of this
Mound when I got on the top those Birds flw off. I discovered that they
wer Cetechig a kind of flying ant which were in great numbers abought the
top of this hill, those insects lit on our hats & necks, Several of
them bit me verry Shart on the neck, near the top of this nole I observed
three holes which I Supposed to be Prarie Wolves or Braroes, which are
numerous in those Plains. this hill is about 70 foot high in an emince
Prarie or leavel plain from the top I could not observe any woods except
in the Missourie Points and a few Scattering trees on the three Rivers in
view. i e the Soues River below, the River Jacque above & the one we
have crossed from the top of this Mound we observed Several large gangus
of Buffalow & Elk feeding upwards of 800 in number Capt Lewis being
much fatigued and verry thursty obliged us to go to the neares water which
we Could See, which was the W Stone Creek at right angles from the Course
we came out, and we got water in three miles in the Creek above whre the
beaver had darned it up after a Delay of about one hour & a half we
Set out for our boat, Cross the Creek three times wast deep, passing down
an ellgent bottom of about a mile in width bordered by a ridge of about 50
feet from the top of which it was leavel to the river, we proceeded on by
a Circular Derection to the place we Crossed this Creek going out where we
delayed for the men to rest themselves about 40 minits in a small grove
here we got Great quantities of the best largest grapes I ever tasted,
Some Blue Currents still on the bushes, and two kind of Plumbs, one the
Common wild Plumb the other a large Yellow Plumb growing on a Small bush,
this blumb is about double the Size of the Common and Deliscously
flavoured — Those plains are leavel without much water and no timber
all the timber on the Stone River would not thickly timber 100 acres of
land — we returned to the boat at Sunset, my Servent nearly exosted
with heat thurst and fatigue, he being fat and un accustomed to walk as
fast as I went was the Cause — we Set fire to the Praries in two
Places to let the Sons know we were on the river and as a Signal for them
to Come to the river above, our Party in the Boat & one Perogue undr.
the Comd of Sergt. Pryor answered us by firing a prarie near them. we
proceeded on to the place we Camped last night, and as it began to rain
and verry dark, we Concluded to Stay all night, our boys prepared us a
Supper of jurked meet and two Prarie Larks (which are about the Size of a
Pigeon and Peculier to this country) and on a Buffalow roabe we Slept
verry well in the morning we proceeded on and joined the boat at 6 miles,
they had camped & were Jurking an Elk & 5 Deer which R. Fields
& Shannon had brough in. from the Mound to the Hill S. S. mo. of R.
Soues S 70° E. to the opsd. Hills S. 45° E. and to the woods near River au
Jacque is West
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
Augt. 25th Satturday wind S E The Boat under Serjt Pryor after drying some
goods which got wet in the french Perogue & jurking the meet killed
yesterday Set out at 12 oClock and proceeded on Six miles and Camped on
the L. S. passed a Bluff of blue earth at 3 miles and a large Sand Island
in a bend to the S. S. at 5 miles, R Fields brought in 5 Deer, G Shannon
an Elk this eveng. rain at 3 oClock Murcky. 86 abo 0,
[Clark, August 25, 1804]
25th August Satturday 1804 a Cloudy morning Capt Lewis & my Self
Concluded to go and See the Mound which was viewed with Such turrow by all
the different Nation in this quarter, we Selected Shields J. Fields, W
Bratten, Sergt. Ordway, J Colter, Can, and Corp Worbington & Frasure,
also G. Drewyer and droped down to the mouth of White Stone River where we
left the Perogue with two men and at 200 yards we assended a riseing
ground of about Sixty feet, from the top of this High land the Countrey is
leavel & open as far as Can be Seen, except Some few rises at a Great
Distance, and the Mound which the Indians Call Mountain of little people
or Spirits this mound appears of a Conic form & is N. 20° W. from the
mouth of the Creek, we left the river at 8 oClock, at 4 miles we Crossed
the Creek 23 yards wide in an extensive Valley and continued on at two
miles further our Dog was So Heeted & fatigued we was obliged Send him
back to the Creek, at 12 oClock we arrived at the hill Capt Lewis much
fatigued from heat the day it being verry hot & he being in a
debilitated State from the Precautions he was obliged to take to provent
the affects of the Cobalt, & Mini. Substance which had like to have
poisoned him two days ago, his want of water, and Several of the men
complaining of Great thirst, deturmined us to make for the first water
which was the Creek in a bend N. E. from the mound about 3 miles — aftr
a Delay of about 1 hour & a half to recrut our party we Set out on our
return down the Creek thro the bottom of about 1 mile in width, Crossed
the Creek 3 times to the place we first Struck it, where we geathered Some
delisious froot Such as Grapes Plumbs, & Blue Currents after a Delay
of an hour we Set out on our back trail & arrived at the Perogue at
Sun Set we proceedd on to the place we Campd. last night and Stayed all
night.
This Mound is Situated on an elivated plain in a leavel and extensive
prarie, bearing N. 20° W. from the mouth of White Stone Creek Nine Miles,
the base of the Mound is a regular parallelagram the long Side of which is
about 300 yards in length the Shorter 60 or 70 yards — from the longer
Side of the Base it rises from the North & South with a Steep assent
to the hight of 65 or 70 feet, leaveing a leavel Plain on the top of 12
feet in width & 90 in length. the North & South part of this mound
is joins by two regular rises, each in Oval forms of half its hight
forming three regular rises from the Plain the assent of each elivated
part is as Suden as the principal mound at the narrower Sides of its Bass
The reagular form of this hill would in Some measure justify a belief that
it owed its Orrigin to the hand of man; but as the earth and loos pebbles
and other Substances of which it was Composed, bare an exact resemblance
to the Steep Ground which border on the Creek in its neighbourhood we
Concluded it was most probably the production of nature-.
The only remarkable Charactoristic of this hill admiting it to be a
naturial production is that it is insulated or Seperated a considerable
distance from any other, which is verry unusial in the naturul order or
disposition of the hills.
The Surrounding Plains is open void of Timber and leavel to a great
extent; hence the wind from whatever quarter it may blow, drives with
unusial force over the naked Plains and against this hill; the insects of
various kinds are thus involuntaryly driven to the mound by the force of
the wind, or fly to its Leward Side for Shelter; the Small Birds whoes
food they are, Consequently resort in great numbers to this place in Surch
of them; Perticularly the Small brown Martin of which we saw a vast number
hovering on the Leward Side of the hill, when we approached it in the act
of Catching those insects; they were So gentle that they did not quit the
place untill we had arrivd. within a fiew feet of them-
One evidence which the Inds Give for believeing this place to be the
residence of Some unusial Spirits is that they frequently discover a large
assemblage of Birds about this mound — is in my opinion a Suffient
proof to produce in the Savage mind a Confident belief of all the
properties which they ascribe it.
from the top of this Mound we beheld a most butifull landscape; Numerous
herds of buffalow were Seen feeding in various directions, the Plain to
North N. W & N E extends without interuption as far as Can be Seen
From the Mound to the mouth of Stone River is S. 20° E 9 miles.
to the woods near the mouth of River Jacque is West
to the High land near the mouth of Souis River is S. 70 E.
to the high land opposit Side or near the Maha Town is S. 45 E.
Some high lands to be Seen from the mound at a Great distance to the N. E
Some Nearer to the N W. no woods except on the Missouris Points
if all the timber which is on the Stone Creek was on 100 acres it would
not be thickly timbered, the Soil of those Plains are delightfull Great
numbers of Birds are Seen in those Plains, Such as black bird, Ren or
Prarie burd a kind of larke about the Sise of a Partridge with a Short
tail &c. &.
25th Augt the Boat under the Comd. of Sergt. Pryor proceeded on in our
absence (after jurking the Elk I Killed yesterday) Six Miles and Camped on
the Larboard Side R Fields brought in five Deer. George Shannon Killed an
Elk Buck Some rain this evening.
we Set the Praries on fire as a Signal for the Soues to Come to the river.
[Lewis, August 25, 1804]
August the 25th on our return from the mound of sperits saw the first bats
that we had observed since we began to ascend the Missouri
also saw on our return on the Creek that passes this mound about 2 M.
distant S. a bird of heron kind as large as the Cormorant short tale long
leggs of a colour on the back and wings deep copper brown with a shade of
red. we could not kill it therefore I can not describe it more
particularly.
[Clark, August 26, 1804]
26th August Sunday 1804 arrived at the boat at 9 oClock A.M. Set out at 10
oClock after Jurking the meet & Cutting the Elk Skins for a Toe Roap
and proceeded, leaveing G. Drewyer & Shannon to hunt the horses, the
river verry full of Sand bars and Wide Course S. 66° W. 2 mes. to a Sand
bar Makeing out from the S. S. N. 82° W. 7 mes. to a pt. of willows S S
passd. a Island & large Sand bars on both sides river wide and a Clift
of White earth on the L. S of 2 ms. in length to a point of Willows on the
S. S opposit Arch Creek above the mouth of this Creek a Chief of the Maha
nataton displeased with the Conduct of Black bird the main Chief came to
this place and built a Town which was called by his name Petite Arch (or
Little Bow) this Town was at the foot of a Hill in a handsom Plain
fronting the river and Contained about 100 huts & 200 men, the remains
of this tribe Since the Death of Petite arch has joined the remaining part
of the nation This Creek is Small — we apt. Pat Gass Sergeant Vice
Floyd Dicesed, Geathered great quantites of Grapes & three Kinds of
Plumbs, one yellow round, & one ovel, & the Common wild Plumb.
Misquetors bad to night — I have apt. you
[Clark, August 26, 1804]
26th August Sunday 1804 (Joined the Boat at 9 oClock A M) after Jurking
the meat Killed yesterday and prepareing the Elk Skins for a Toe Roape we
Set out Leaveing Drewyer & Shannon to hunt the horses which was lost
with directions to follow us Keeping on the high lands.
proceeded on passed a Clift of White & Blue or Dark earths of 2 miles
in extent on the L. S. and Camped on a Sand bar opposed the old village
Called Pitite Arc a Small Creek falls into the river 15 yds wide below the
Village on the Same Side L. S this village was built by a Indian Chief of
the Maha nation by the name of Pitite arc (or little Bow) displeasd. with
the Great Chief of that nation (Black Bird) Seperated with 200 men and
built a village at this place. after his death the two villages joined,
apt. Pat Gass a Sergt. Vice Floyd Deceased
Great qts. of Grape, Plumbs of three Kinds 2 yellow and large of one of
which is long and a 3rd kind round & red all well flavored.
perticularly the yellow Sort.
[Lewis, August 26, 1804]
Orders August 26th 1804. The commanding officers have thought it proper to
appoint Patric Gass, a Sergeant in the corps of volunteers for North
Western Discovery, he is therefore to be obeyed and respected accordingly.
Sergt. Gass is directed to take charge of the late Sergt. Floyd's mess,
and immediately to enter on the discharge of such other duties, as by
their previous orders been prescribed for the government of the Sergeants
of this corps.
The Commanding officers have every reason to hope from the previous
faithfull services of Sergt. Gass, that this expression of their
approbation will be still further confirmed, by his vigilent attention in
future to his duties as a Sergeant. the Commanding officers are still
further confirmed in the high opinion they had previously formed of the
capacity, deligence and integrety of Sergt. Gass, from the wish expresssed
by a large majority of his comrades for his appointment as Sergeant.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. 1st U.S. Regt Infty. Wm Clark Cpt &.
[Clark, August 27, 1804]
27th August Monday, this morning the Morning Star was observed to be very
large, G Drewyer Came up and informed that he Could neither find Shannon
or the horses, he had walked all night — we Sent Shields & J.
Fields back to look for Shannon & the horses and to Come up with us on
the river above at the grand Callemet or River KaCure & we Set out
under a Gentle Breeze from the S. E. proceeded on passed a Bluff at 7 mes.
Several mile in extent of white Clay Marl or Chalk, under this bank we
discovered Large Stone resembling lime incrusted with a Substanc like
Glass which I take to be Cabolt, also ore, three mes above this Bluff we
Set the Prarie on fire, to let the Soues Know, we wished to see them at
two oClock an Indian Swam to the Perogue, we landed & two other Came
they were boys, they informed us that the Souex were Camped near, on the R
Jacke one Maha boy informed us his nation was gorn to make a peace with
the Pania's we Send Sjt. Pryor & a frenchman with the Interptr. Mr.
Durion to the Camp to See & invite their Great Chiefs to Come and
Counsel with us at the Callemet Bluffs ____ Mile abov on L. S. — we
proceed on 11/2 miles farther & Camped S S.
[Clark, August 27, 1804]
27th August Monday 1804 This morning the Star Calld. the morning Star much
larger than Common G. Drewyer Came up and informed that he Could neither
find Shannon nor horses, we Sent Shields & J Fields, back to hunt
Shannon & the horses, with derections to Keep on the Hills to the
Grand Calumet above on River Ka cure.
We Set Sail under a gentle Breeze from the S. E. at 7 miles passed a white
Clay marl or Chalk Bluff under this Bluff is extensive I discovered large
Stone much like lime incrusted with a Clear Substance which I believe to
be Cabalt, also ore is imbeded in the Dark earth, resembling Slate much
Softer — above this Bluff we had the Prarie Set on fire to let the
Souix See that we were on the river, & as a Signal for them to Come to
it.
at 2 oClock passed the mouth of River Jacque, or Yeankton one Indian at
the mouth of this river Swam to the Perogue, we landed and two others came
to us, those Inds. informed that a large Camp of Soues, were on R. Jacque
near the mouth. we Sent Sergt. Pryor & a Frenchman with Mr. Durioin
the Souls interpeter to the Camp with derections to invite the Principal
Chiefs to councel with us at a Bluff above Called the Calumet — two of
those Indians accompanied them and the third continued in the Boat Showing
an inclination to Continue, this boy is a Mahar, and inform that his
nation, were gorn to the Parnias to make a peace with that nation.
We proceeded on about one and a half miles and in Camped on a bar makeing
out from the S. S. the wind blew hard from the South. a Cool &
Pleasent evening, The river has fallen verry Slowly and is now low.
[Lewis, August 27, 1804]
Monday August 27th On the Stard. shore, opposite to the lower point, or
commencement of the white Calk Bluff-
[Clark, August 28, 1804]
28th August Tuesday, 1804 The wind blew hard last night one Indian Stayed
with us all night, Set out under a Stiff Breeze from S and proceedd on
passe a Willow Island at two miles Several Sand bars the river here is
wide & Shallow full of Sand bars — The High land appear to be
getting nearer to each other passed a Bluff containing Some white earth on
the L. S. below this Bluff for Some mile the Plain rises gradually to the
hight of the Bluff which is 70 or 80 foot, here the Indian boy left us for
his Camp — Capt Lewis & my Self much indisposed- I think from the
Homney we Substitute in place of bread, (or Plumbs) we proceeded on about
3 Miles higher and Camped below the Calumet Bluff in a Plain on the L. S.
to waite the return of Sergt Pryor & Mr. Durioun, who we Sent to the
Soues Camp from the mouth of R. Jacque, before we landed the French rund a
Snag thro their Perogue, and like to have Sunk, we had her on loaded, from
an examonation found that this Perogue was unfit for Service, &
Deturmined to Send her back by the Party intended to Send back and take
their Perogue, accordingly Changed the loads, Some of the loading was wet
wind blows hard from the South. J Shields & J. Fields joined they did
not overtake Shannon with the horses who is a head of us.
[Clark, August 28, 1804]
28th August Tuesday 1804. Set out under a Stiff Breeze from the South and
proceeded on passd. a willow Island at 2 miles Several Sand bars, the
river wide & Shallow at 4 Miles passed a Short White Bluff of about 70
or 80 feet high, below this Bluff the Prarie rises gradually from the
water back to the Hight of the Bluff which is on the Larboard Side here
the Indian who was in the boat returned to the Sisouex Camp on the R
Jacque, Capt. Lewis & my Self much indisposed owing to Some Cause for
which we cannot account one of the Perogues run a Snag thro her and was
near Sinking in the opinions of the Crew — we came too below the
Calumet Bluff and formed a camp in a Butifull Plain near the foot of the
high land which rises with a gradual assent near this Bluff I observe more
timber in the valey & on the points than usial — The Perogue which
was injurd I had unloaded and the Loading put into the other Perogue which
we intended to Send back, the Perogue & changed the Crew after
examoning her & finding that She was unfit for Service deturmined to
Send her back by the party Some load which was in the Perogue much inju'd
The wind blew hard this after noon from the South — J. Shields &
J. Fields who was Sent back to look for Shannon & the Horses joined us
& informed that Shannon had the horses a head and that they Could not
over take him This man not being a first rate Hunter, we deturmined to
Send one man in pursute of him with Some Provisions.
[Lewis, August 28, 1804]
Orders August 28th 1804. The commanding officers direct that the two
messes who form the crews of the perogues shall scelect each one man from
their mess for the purpose of cooking and that these cooks as well as
those previously appointed to the messes of the Barge crew, shall in
future be exempted from mounting guard, or any detail for that duty; they
are therefore no longer to be held on the royaster.
M. Lewis Capt. 1st US. Regt. Infty. Win Clark Cpt. &.
[Clark, August 29, 1804]
29th August Wednesday 1804 — rained last night and Some this morning
verry cloudy Set Some men to work to make a Toe rope of Elk Skin, and my
Self to write, Sent one man to pursue Shannon a head with Some provisions,
I am much engaged writeing a Speech at 4 oClock Sergt. Pryor & Mr.
Durion the Soues interpeter with about 70 Soues arrived on the opposit
Side of the river we Sent over for them, who came over Mr. D. & his
Son who was tradeing with the Indians Came over Mr. Durion informed that
three Chiefs were of the Party, we Sent over Serjt. Pryor with young Mr.
Durion, Six Kettles for the Indians to Cook the meat they Killed on the
way from their Camp (2 Elk & 6 Deer) a bout a bucket of Corn & 2
twists of Tobacco to Smoke intending to Speak to them tomorrow — G.
Drewyer Killed a Deer-. Sergt. Pryor informs that when he approached the
Indian Camp they Came to meet them Supposeing Cap Lewis or my Self to be
of the party intending to take us in a roabe to their Camp-he approached
the Camp which was handsum made of Buffalow Skins Painted different
Colour, their Camps formed of a Conic form Containing about 12 or 15
persons each and 40 in number, on the River Jacque of 100 yds wide &
Deep Containing but little wood, They had a fat dog Cooked as a feest; for
them, and a Snug aptmt for them to lodge on their march they passed thro
plains Covd. with game &. &. &.
[Clark, August 29, 1804]
29th August Wednesday 1804 Some rain last night & this morning, Sent
on Colter with Provisions in pursute of Shannon, had a Toe roap made of
Elk Skin, I am much engaged reriteing — at 4 oClock P M. Sergt. Pryor
& Mr. Dorion with 5 Chiefs and about 70 men &c. arrived on the
opposite Side we Sent over a Perogue & Mr. Dorrion & his Son who
was tradeing with the Indians Came over with Serjt Pryer, and informed us
that the Chiefs were there we Sent Serjt. Pryor & yound Mr. Dorion
with Som Tobacco, Corn & a few Kitties for them to Cook in, with
directions to inform the Chiefs that we would Speek to them tomorrow.
Those Indians brought with them for their own use 2 Elk & 6 Deer which
the young men Killed on the way from their Camp 12 miles distant.
Serjt. Pryor informs me that when Came near the Indian Camp they were met
by men with a Buffalow roabe to Carry them, Mr. Dorion informed "they were
not the Owners of the Boats & did not wish to be Carried"- the Sceouex
Camps are handson of a Conic form Covered with Buffalow Roabs Painted
different Colours and all Compact & hand Somly arranged, covered all
round an orpen part in the Center for the fire, with Buffalow roabs each
Lodg has a place for Cooking detached, the lodges contain 10 to 15 persons — a
Fat Dog was presented as a mark of their Great respect for the party of
which they partook hartily and thought it good & well flavored
The River Jacque is Deep & is navagable for Perogues a long distance
up at the mouth it is Shallow & narrow but above it is 80 or 90 yards
wide passing thro rich Praries with but little timber this river passes
the Souex River and heads with the St Peters and a branch of Red river
which which falls into Lake Winepik to the North
[Clark, August 30, 1804]
30th August Thursday 1804 A Foggeie morning I am much engagd. after
Brackfast we sent Mr. Doroun in a Perogue to the other Side i'e L S. for
the Chiefs and warriers of the Soues, he returned at 10 oClock with the
Chiefs, at 12 oClock I finished and we delivered a Speech to the Indians
expressive of the wishes of our government and explaining of what would be
good for themselves, after delivering the Speech we made one grand Chief 1
2d Cheif and three third Chiefs and deliverd. to each a few articles and a
Small present to the whole the grand Chief a Parole, Some wampom & a
flag in addition to his present, they with Drew and we retired to dinner,
Mr. Durions Sun much displeased that he could not dine with Cap Lewis and
my Self — the number of Soues present is about 70 men — Dressed in
Buffalow roabes a fiew fusees, Bows and arrows, and verry much deckerated
with porcupine quills, a Society of which only four remains is present,
this Society has made a vow never to giv back let what will happen, out of
22 only 4 remains, those are Stout likely men who Stay by them Selves,
fond of mirth and assume a degree of Superiority-, the air gun astonished
them verry much after night a circle was forrm around 3 fires and those
Indians danced untill late, the Chiefs looked on with great dignity much
pleased with what they had, we retired late and went to bead. wind hard
from the South.
[Clark, August 30, 1804]
30th of August Thursday 1804 a verry thick fog this morning after
Prepareing Some presents for the Chiefs which we intended make by giving
Meadals, and finishing a Speech what we intend'd to give them, we Sent Mr.
Dorion in a Perogue for the Chiefs & warreirs to a Council under an
Oak tree near wher we had a flag flying on a high flag Staff at 12 OClock
we met and Cap L. Delivered the Speach & thin made one great Chiff by
giving him a meadal & Some Cloathes one 2d. Chief & three third
Chiefs in the Same way, They recvd. those thing with the goods and tobacco
with pleasure To the Grand Chief we gave a Flag and the parole &
wampom with a hat & Chiefs Coat, we Smoked out of the pipe of peace,
& the Chiefs retired to a Bourey made of bushes by their young men to
Divide their presents and Smoke eate and Council Capt Lewis & my Self
retired to dinner and Consult about other measures — Mr. Daurion Jr.
much displeased that we did not invite him to dine with us (which he was
Sorry for after wards) — The Souix is a Stout bold looking people,
(the young men hand Som) & well made, the greater part of them make
use of Bows & arrows, Some fiew fusees I observe among them, not with
Standing they live by the Bow & arrow, they do not Shoot So well as
the Northern Indians the Warriers are Verry much deckerated with Paint
Porcupin quils & feathers, large leagins & mockersons, all with
buffalow roabs of Different Colours. the Squars wore Peticoats & and a
white Buffalow roabes with the black hair turned back over their necks
& Sholders
I will here remark a Society which I had never before this day heard was
in any nation of Indians — four of which is at this time present and
all who remain of this Band — Those who become members of this Society
must be brave active young men who take a Vow never to give back let the
danger be what it may; in War Parties they always go foward without
Screening themselves behind trees or any thing else to this Vow they
Strictly adheer dureing their Lives — an instanc which happened not
long Since, on a party in Crossing the R Missourie on the ice, a whole was
in the ice imediately in their Course which might easily have been avoided
by going around, the foremost man went on and was lost the others wer
draged around by the party — in a battle with the Crow Indians who
inhabit the Coul Noir or black mountain out of 22 of this society 18 was
Killed, the remaining four was draged off by their Party Those men are
likely fellows the Sit together Camp & Dance together- This Society is
in imitation of the Societies of the de Curbo or Crow Indians from whome
they imitate-
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
31st of August Friday rose early a fair Day — a curioes Society among
this nation worthey of remark, ie, formed of their active deturmined young
men, with a vow never to give back, let the danger or deficuelty be what
it may, in war parties they always go forward, without Screening
themselves behind trees or anything else, to this vow they Strictly adheer
dureing their Lives, an Instance of it, is last winter on a march in
Crossing the Missourei a hole was in the ice immediately in their Course
which might easily be avoided by going around, the fore most man went on
and was drowned, the others were caught by their party and draged aroundin
a battle with the Crow de Curbo Indians out of 22 of this Society 18 was
killed, the remaining four was draged off by their friends, and are now
here — they assocate together Camp together and are merry fellows,
This Custom the Souex learned of the de Carbours inhabiting the Gout Noie
or Black mountain all the Chiefs Delivered a Speech agreeing to what we
Said &. &. & beged which I answered from my notes. We made or
gav a certificate to two Brave men the attendants of the Great Chief gave
them Some tobacco and prepared a Commission for Mr. Darion to make a peace
with all the nations in the neighbourhood, Mahas, Porncases, Panic, Loups,
Ottoes and Missouries — & to take to the President Some of the Gt
Chiefs of each nations who would accompany him allso to do certain other
things, and wrot Instructions — gave him a flag and Some Cloaths — the
Chiefs Sent all their young men home, and they Stayed for Mr. Dorion — in
the evening late we gave the Comsn. & Instruction to Mr. Durion &
he recved them with pleasa, & promised to do all which was necessary.
I took a Vocabulary of the Seouex language, and a fiew answers to Some
queries I put to Mr. Pitte Dorion respecting the War No. Situation Trad
&c. &. of that people which is divided into 20 tribes possessing
Sepperate interest they are numerous between 2 & 3000 men, divided
into 20 tribes who view their interests as defferent Some bands at War
with Nations which other bands are at peace — This nation call
themselves-Dar co tar. The french call them Souex Their language is not
perculiar to themselves as has been Stated, a great many words is the Same
with the Mahas, Ponckais, Osarge, Kanzies &c. Clearly proves to me
those people had the Same Oregean — this nations inhabit the red river
of Hudson bay St. Peters Missippi, Demoin R. Jacque & on the Missourie
they are at War with 20 nations, and at piece with 8 only — they
recved their trade from the British except a few on the Missourie they
furnish Beaver Martain Loues orter, Pekon Bear and Deer and have forty
Traders at least among them. The names of the Different bands of this
nation are-
1st Che the ree or Bois ruley (the present band) Inhabit the Souex Jacque
& Demoin Rivers
2nd Ho in de bor to or poles. They live on the head of the Suouex River
3rd Me ma car jo (or make fence on the river.) the Country near the Big
bend of the Missouri.
4th Son on to ton (People of the Prarie) they rove North of the Missourie
in the Praries above.
5th Wau pa Coo do (Beeds) they live near the Prarie de Chaine on the
Missippi
6th Te tar ton (or Village of Prarie) on the waters of the Mississippi
above Prate de Chain (Dog Prarie)
7th Ne was tar ton (Big Water Town) on the Mississippi above the mouth of
the St. Peters River.
8th Wau pa to (Leaf Nation). 10 Leagues up St. Peters
9th Cass car ba (White man) 35 Lgs. up St Peters
10 Mi ac cu op si ba (Cut Bank) reside on the head of St. Peters river
11 Son on — on St. Peters in the Praries
12th Se si toons — 40 Leagues up St Peters.
The names of the other tribes I could not get In
31st August 1804 Speeches
at 8 oClock the Chiefs and warriers met us in Council all with their pipes
with the Stems presented towards us, after a Silence of abt. ____ The
great Chief Dressed himself in his fine Cloathes and two warriers in the
uniform and armer of their Nation Stood on his left with a War Club &
Speer each, & Dressed in feathurs.
The Shake hand 1st Chief Spoke
My Father. I am glad to here the word of my G. F. and all my warriers and
men about me are also glad.
My Father. — now I see my two fathers the Children, of my great
father, & what you have Said I believe and all my people do believ
also
My Father — We are verry glad you would take pitty on them this Day,
we are pore and have no powder and ball.
My Father. — We are verry Sorry our women are naked and all our
children, no petiecoats or cloathes
My Father — You do not want me to Stop the boats going up if we See,
I wish a man out of your boat to bring about a peace, between all the
Indians, & he can do So.
My Father — Listen to what I say I had an English medal when I went to
See them, I went to the Spanoriards they give me a meadel and Some goods,
I wish you would do the Same for my people.
My Father. — I have your word I am glad of it & as Soon as the Ice
is don running I will go down & take with me, Some great men of the
other bands of the Soues
My Father — I will be glad to See My Grand Father but our Women has
got no Cloathes and we have no Powder & Ball, take pity on us this
day.
My Father — I want to listen and observe wath you Say, we want our old
friend (Mr. Durion) to Stay with us and bring the Indians with my Self
down this Spring.
My Father — I opend my ears and all my yound men and we wish you to
let Mr. Durion Stay, and a Perogue for to take us down in the Spring.
The speach of th White Crain Mar to ree 2d Chief
My Fathr's listen to my word, I am a young man and do not intend to talk
much, but will Say a few words.
My Father — my father was a Chief, and you have made me a Chief I now
think I am a chief agreeable to your word as I am a young man and
inexperienced, cannot say much What the Great Chief has Said is as much as
I could Say
Par nar ne Ar par be Struck by the Pana 3d Chief
My father's I cant Speek much I will Speek a litle to you
My fathers. — ther's the Chiefs you have made high, we will obey them,
as also my young men, the Pipe I hold in my hand is the pipe of my father,
I am pore as you See, take pity on me I believe what you have Said
My fathers — You think the great meadel you gave My great Chief
pleases me and the small one you gave me gives me the heart to go with him
to See my Great father. What the Great Chief has Said is all I could Say.
I am young and Cant Speek.
A Warrier by name Tar ro mo nee Spoke
My father — I am verry glad you have made this man our great
Chief, the British & Spaniards have acknowledged him before but never
Cloathed him. you have Cloathed him, he is going to see our Great father,
We do not wish to spear him but he must go and see his great father
My Fathr's, my great Chief must go and See his Gd father, give him some of
your milk to Speek to his young men,
My father. our people are naked, we wish a trader to Stop among us, I
would be verry glad our two fathers would give us some powder and ball and
some Milk with the flag.
Speech of Ar ca we char chi the half man 3d Chief
My fathr's I do not Speak verry well, I am a pore man and
My Fathr's. I was once a Chiefs boy now I am a man and a Chief of Some
note
My Fat hr's — I am glad you have made my old Chief a fine and a great
man, I have been a great warrier but now I here your words, I will berry
my hatchet and be at peace with all & go with my Great Chief to see my
great father.
My fath-s. When I was a young man I went to the Spaniards to see ther
fassion, I like you talk and will pursue you advice, Since you have given
me a meadal. I will tell you the talk of the Spaniards
My Father's. — I am glad my Grand father has sent you to the read
people on this river, and that he has given us a flag large and handsom
the Shade of which we can Sit under
My Fathr's. — We want one thing for our nation very much we have no
trader, and often in want of goods
My Fathers — I am glad as well as all around me to here your word, and
we open our ears, and I think our old Frend Mr. Durion can open the ears
of the other bands of Soux. but I fear those nations above will not open
their ears, and you cannot I fear open them
My Fathers. You tell us that you wish us to make peace with the Ottoes
& M. You have given 5 Medles I wish you to give 5 Kigz with them
My Fathers. — My horses are pore running the Buffalow give us
Some powder and ball to hunt with, and leave old Mr. Durion with us to get
us a trader
My Father. — The Spaniards did not keep the Medal of the Token of our
Great Chief when they gave him one You have Dressed him and I like it I am
pore & take pitey on me
My fathers — I am glad you have put heart in our great Chief he can
now speak with confidence, I will support him in all your Councilsafter
all the chief presented the pipe to us
The Half man rose & spoke as follows viz.
My father — What you have Said is well, but you have not given any
thing to the attendants of the Great Chiefs after which
In the evening late we gave Mr. Dorion a bottle of whiskey and himself
with the Chiefs Crossed the river and Camped on the opposit bank Soon
after a violent Wind from the N W. accompanied with rain
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
31st of August We gave a Certificate to two Men of War, attendants on the
Chief gave to all the Chiefs a Carrot of Tobacco — had a talk with Mr.
Dorion, who agreed to Stay and Collect the Chiefs from as many Bands of
Soux as he coud this fall & bring about a peace between the Sciuex
& their neighbours &. &c. &c.
after Dinner we gave Mr. Peter Darion, a Comission to act with a flag
& some Cloathes & Provisions & instructions to bring about a
peace with the Scioux Mahars, Panies, Ponceries, Ottoes & Missouries — and
to employ any trader to take Some of the Cheifs of each or as many of
those nations as he Could Perticularly the Sceiouex — I took a
Vocabulary of the Scioux Language — and the Answer to a fiew quaries
Such as refured to ther Situation, Trade, number War, &c. &c. — This
Nation is Divided into 20 Tribes, possessing Seperate interests-
Collectively they are noumerous Say from 2 to 3000 men, their interests
are so unconnected that Some bands are at war with Nations which other
bands are on the most friendly terms. This Great Nation who the French has
given the nickname of Sciouex, Call them selves Dar co tar their language
is not peculiarly their own, they Speak a great number of words, which is
the Same in every respect with the Maha, Poncaser, Osarge & Kanzies.
which Clearly proves that those nation at Some Period not more that a
century or two past the Same nation — Those Dar ca ter's or Scioux
inhabit or rove over the Countrey on the Red river of Lake Winipeck, St.
Peter's & the West of the Missippie above Prarie De chain heads of
River Demoin, and the Missouri and its waters on the N. Side for a great
extent. They are only at peace with 8 Nations, & agreeable to their
Calculation at war with twenty odd. — Their trade Corns from the
British, except this Band and one on Demoin who trade with the Traders of
St Louis — The furnish Beaver Martain, Loues Pikon, Bear and Deer
Skins-and have about 40 Traders among them. The Dar co tar or Sceouex rove
& follow the Buffalow raise no corn or any thing else the woods &
praries affording a Suffcency, the eat Meat, and Substitute the Ground
potato which grow in the Plains for bread The names of the Different
Tribes or Canoes of the Sceoux or Dar co tar Nation
1st Che cher ree Yank ton (or bois rulay) now present inhabit the Sciouex
& Demoin rivers and the Jacques.
2nd Hoin de borto (Poles) they rove on the heads of Souix & Jacqus
Rivers-
3rd Me ma car jo (make fence of the river) rove on the Countrey near the
big bend of the Missouries
4th Sou on, Teton (People of the Prarie) the rove in the Plains N. of the
Riv Missouries above this
5th Wau pa coo tar (Leaf beds) the live near the Prare de Chain near the
Missippi
6th Te tar ton (or village of Prarie) rove on the waters of the
Mississippi above Prarie de Chain
7th Ne was tar ton (big water Town) rove on the Missippi above the St.
Peters River
8th Wau pa tow (Leaf nation) live 10 Leagues up St Peters river
9th Cas Car ba (white man) live 35 Leagus up St Peters river
10th Mi ca cu op si ba (Cut bank) rove on the head of St. Peters
11th Sou on (-) rove on St peters river in the Prareis
12th Sou si toons (-) live 40 Legus up the St peters river
The names of the other bands neither of the Souex's interpters could
inform me. in the evening late we gave Mr. Dourion a bottle of whiskey,
& he with the Cheifs & his Son Crossed the river and Camped on the
Opposit bank — Soon after night a violent wind from the N W. with rain
the rain Continud the greater part of the night The river a riseing a
little.
[Clark, August 31, 1804]
August the 31st 1804 after the Indians got their Brackfast the Chiefs met
and arranged themselves in a row with elligent pipes of peace all pointing
to our Seets, we Came foward and took our Seets, the Great Cheif The Shake
han rose and Spoke to Some length aproving what we had Said and promissing
to pursue the advice.
Mar to ree 2d Cheif (White Crain) rose and made a Short Speech and refured
to the great Chief
Par nar ne Ar par be 3rd Cheif rose and made a Short Speech
Ar ca we char the (the half man) 3d Chief rose & spoke at Some length.
Much to the purpose.
The othe Cheif Said but little one of the warreirs Spoke after all was don
& promissed to Support the Chiefs, the promisd to go and See their
Great father in the Spring with Mr. Dorion, and to do all things we had
advised them to do. and all Concluded by telling the distresses of ther
nation by not haveing traders, & wished us to take pity on them, the
wanted Powder Ball & a little milk
last night the Indians Danced untill late in their dances we gave them Som
knives Tobaco & belts & tape & Binding with which they wer
Satisfied
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
September 1st Satturday 1804 Mr. Durion left his Kettle which we gave him,
which we Sent to him and Set out under a gentle Breeze from the South
(raind half the last night,) proceded on — pass Calumet Bluff of a
yellowish read & a brownish white Hard clay, this Bluff is about 170
or 180 foot high here the highlands aproach the river on each Side with a
jentle assent, opsd. the Bluff a large Island Covered with timber is
Situated Close to the L. S. we passed the Island opposit which the high
land approach the river on both Side (river ros 3 Inchs last night) passed
a large Island Covered with wood on the L. S. Some rain, cloudy all day — the
river wide & Hils close on each Side, Came to before night to go &
See a Beaver house which is 11/2 Miles to the L. S. of the riv Cap Lewis
& my self with two men went to See this house which was represented as
high & situated in a Small pond. we could not find the Pon. Drewyer
Killed a Buck Elk, it is not necessary to mention fish as we catch them at
any place on the river, Camped at the lower point of Bonhomme Island-
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
September 1st Satturday 1804 Mr. Dourion left his Kettle & Sent back
for it &c. We Set out under a jentle Breeze from the S. (It rained
half the last night) proceeded on pass the Bluffs Compsd. of a yellowish
red, & brownish White Clay which is a hard as Chalk this Bluff is 170
or 180 feet high, here the High lands approach near the river on each
Side, that on the S. S. not So high as that on the L. S. opposit the
Bluffs is Situated a large Island Covered with timber close under the L.
S. above the Isd the high land approach & form a Clift to the river on
the S. S. this Clift is Called White Bear Clift one of those animals
haveing been killed in a whole in it
[Clark, September 1, 1804]
1st of September Satturday 1804 Some hard wind and rain, Cloudy all day,
the river wide & hills on each Side near the river, passd. a large (1)
Island which appeared to be composed of Sand, Covered with Cotton wood
close under the S. S. we landed at the Lower point of a large Island on
the S. S. Called bon homme or Good man, here Capt Lewis & my Self went
out a Short distance on the L. S. to See a Beave house, which was Said to
be of Great hite & Situated in a Pond we could not find the house and
returned after night Drewyer killed an Elk, & a Beaver. numbers of Cat
fish cought, those fish is so plenty that we catch them at any time and
place in the river
[Clark, September 2, 1804]
2nd of Sept. Sunday 1804 — Set out early & proceeded on passed the
Island & Came too above below a yellow Bluff on the S S. the Wind
being hard from the N W. verry Cold Some rain all day much Thunder &
lightning G Drewyer R. Fields Howard & Newmon Killed four fat Elk on
the Isld. we had them Jurked &the Skins Stretched to Cover the
Perogues water riseing, I observe Bear grass & Rhue in the Sides of
the hills at Sunset the wind luled and cleared up cool — Aired the
meet all in high Spirits — Shannon & the man Sent after him has
not yet joind us
2 Sepr. description of a antient fortification
(1) From the river on the top of the antient fortification at this the 12
foot high 75 feet Base first Corse is from the river is S 76° W 96 yards.
S 84° W. 53 yds. at this angle a kind of ravilene covering a Saleport,
bearing East widing N 69 W 300 yds. passed a gate way at 280 yds. the bank
lower & forming a right angle of 30 yards — two wings or mounds
running from a high nold to the West of the way one 30 yards back of the
other Covering the gate (at this place the mound is 15 feet 8 Inches
higher than the plain forming a Glassee outwards & 105 feet base N. 32
W. 56 yards N. 20 W. 73 yards this part of the work is about 12 feet high,
leavel & about 16 feet wide on the top) at the experation of this
course a low irregular work in a Direction to the river, out Side of which
is several ovel mounds of about 16 feet high and at the iner part of the
Gouge a Deep whole across the Gauge N.
32 W 96 yds. to the Commencment of a wall of about 8 feet high N.81° W.
533 yards to a Deep pond 73 yds in Deamuter, and 200 yards further to a
Saleport, where there is evident marks of its being Covered, the Same
Course Contined 1030 yards to the river bottom.
One half of the first part of the Fortification is washed into the river,
a Second line, has run from the Northrn extremity parrelel with the river
(as it appears to have run at that time) N. 56 W. this of different hith
from 4 to to 10 feet — The high land is about 3 me. from this
fortress, and rise to Small mountains Say from 3 to 400 feet the high land
on the opposit or North Side of the Missourie is 110 feet forming a yellow
Clay bluff to the water and is leavel back as fur as can be Seen. I am
informed by the inteperter & french, that they have Seen, numbers of
those fortifications in different parts of this Cty. pirtcularly on the
Platt Kansies and the North of this place on the river Jacque.
two Small fortifications is on the Arc Creek on the upper side 1st 1/4 of
a mile up & the 2d 1/4 higher, nearly Square each angle 100 yards
[Clark, September 2, 1804]
2nd September Sunday 1804 Set out early and proceeded on Passed the Island
and Landed on the S. S above under a yellow Clay bluff of 110 feet high,
the wind blew verry hard a head from the N. W. with Some rain and verry
Cold, G. Drewnyer R. Fields Newman & howard Killed four fine Elk we
had the meat all jurked and the Skins Dried to Cover the Perogue, on the
Side of the Bluff I observed Bear Grass & Rhue, at Sun Set the wind
luled and Cleared up Cold, the high land on the L. S. is verry high, &
uneaven, that on the S. S from 80 to 120 foot & is leavel back but
fiew Small Streems falling into the river.
I went out and made a Survey of the antient works which is Situated in a
level plain about 3 miles from the hills which are high.
A Discription of the Fortification
(1) Commenceing on the river opsid the Good Mans Island, first Course from
the river is
S. 76d W. 96 yards thence
S. 84 W. 53 yards (at this angle a kind of angle or horn work)
N. 69 W. 300 yards to a high part, passing the gateway Covered by two half
Circler works one back of the other lower than the main work the gate
forms a right angle projecting inward
N.32 W. 56 yards
N 20 W. 73 yards This part of the work appears to have either double, or a
covered way. from this Some irregular works appear to have been on mounds
between this and the river with a Deep round whole in the center of a
gorge formed by another angle — — — (578)
This part of the work is from 10 to 15 feet 8 Inches — the mounds of
various hights — the base of the work is from 75 to 105 feet, steep
inward and forming a kind of Glassee out wards
the Same Cours continued i e
N. 32°W. 96 yards to the Commencement of a wall from 8 to 10 feet high
this corse not on the wall but thro to the commencment of another detached
N. 81° W 1830 yards to the river & above where this bank Strikes the
river is the remains of a Circular work
in this Course at 533 yards a Deep Pond of 73 yards Diameter perfectly
round is in the Course of the bank which is about 8 feet high, from this
Pond the bank it lowers gradually — a bank about the Same hight runs
near the river, and must have joined the main work at a part which is now
washed into the river, this is also perfectly Streight and widens from the
main work, as the river above has washed in its banks for A great distance
I cannot form an Idear How those two long works joined — where they
Strike the river above, they are about 1100 yds apart, I am informed by
our freench interpeters that a great number of those antint works are in
Different parts of this Countrey, on the Platt River, Kansus, Jacque,
Osarge Mine river &c.
Small one is on Island opposit the one I have Discribed, and two of our
Party Saw two of those antient frtresses on the Pittiet Arc Creek on the
upper Side near the mouth, each angle of which were 100 yards and about 8
feet high-
[Clark, September 3, 1804]
3rd September Monday 1804. Set out at Sun rise, verry Cold morning clear
and but little wind from the N W. we proceeded on, the river wide, took an
obsivation below Plumb Creek which mouths on the S S. this Creek is Small
& corns in between 2 white banks, Great quantities of Plumbs of a most
delisious flavour, I have collected the Seed of 3 Kinds which I intend to
Send to my brother, also Som grapes of a Superior quallity large &
well flavoured, the river is riseing a little, Several wild Goats Seen in
the Plains they are wild & fleet Elk & Buffalow is verry plenty,
Scercely any timber in Countrey except a little on the river in the
Points. Saw Some Signs of the 2 men who are a head, Colter has not over
taken Shannon Camped on the L. S. at the edge of a Plain-
[Clark, September 3, 1804]
3rd of September Monday 1804 a verry Cold morning wind from N. W. we Set
out at Sun rise, & proceeded on to a Bluff below the mouth of Plumb 12
yds. Creek on the S. S. and took an obsevation of the Suns Altitude
This Creek is Small it "abounds with blumbs of a Delicious flavour" the
River is wide and Crouded with Sand bars — it is riseing a little but
little timber in this Countrey all that is, is on the river in the points.
we Came too on the L. Sin the edge of a Plain an Camped for the night — we
Saw Some Signs of the two men Shannon & Colter, Shannon appeared to be
a head of Colter — The White banks appear to Continu on both sides of
the river. Grapes plenty and finely flavered-
[Clark, September 4, 1804]
4th of September Tuesday 1804. a verry Cold wind from South E. by S. we
Set out early proceeded on to the mouth of a Small Creek in the bend to
the L. S. Called white line at 11/2 miles furthr passed the mouth of a R
au platte or White paint Cr about 25 yd. on Same Side Called, I walked on
the top of the hill forming a Cliff Covd. with red Ceeder an extensive
view from this hill, at 3 Miles from the Creek the high land jut the river
forming a Bluff of Bluish Clay Continu 11/2 miles Came to at the mouth of
Qui courre (rapid) this river Comes roleing its Sands whuch (is corse)
into the Missouris from the S W by W. this river is 152 yards across the
water and not exeeding 4 feet Deep it does not rise high when it Does it
Spreds over a large Surface, and is not navagable it has a Great many
Small Islands & Sand bars I went up this river 3 miles to the Spot the
Panis once had a large Village on the upper Side in a butifull extensive
Plain riseing gradially from the river I fel into a Buffalow road joined
the boat late at night at the Pania Island.
[Clark, September 4, 1804]
4th September Tuesday 1804 a verry Cold wind from the S. S. E, we Set out
early and proceeded on the mouth of a Small Creek in a bend to the L. S.
Called White lime, at 11/2 miles higher up passed a large Creek on the L.
S. Called or white paint between those two Creeks (the latter of which is
abt. 30 yds. wide) we passed under a Bluff of red Ceeder, at 4 mes. 1/2
passed the mouth of the River Que Courre (rapid R) on the L. S. and Came
to a Short distance above, this River is 152 yards wide at the mouth &
4 feet Deep Throwing out Sands like the Platt (only Corser) forming bars
in its mouth, I went up this river three miles to a butifull Plain on the
upper Side where the Panias once had a Village this river widens above its
mouth and is devided by Sand and Islands, the Current verry rapid, not
navagable for even Canoos without Great dificulty owing to its Sands; the
colour like that of the Plat is light the heads of this river is not
known, it Corns into the Missourie from the S. W. by West, and I am told
that is Genl. Course Some distance up is parrelel with the Missourie
[Clark, September 5, 1804]
5th September 1804 Wednesday, Set out early the wind blew hard from the
South as it has for Some Days past, we Set up a jury mast & Sailed, I
saw a large gangue of Turkeys, also Grous Seen Passed a large Island of
about 3 miles long in the Middle of the river opposit the head of this
Island the Poncarre River Coms into the Missourei on the L. S. — the
S. S is a Clift under which great numbers of Springs run out of mineral
water, Saw Several wild goats on the Clift & Deer with black tales,-
Sent Shields & Gibson to the Poncas Towns, which is Situated on the
Ponca river on the lower side about two miles from its mouth in an open
butifull Plain, at this time this nation is out hunting the biffalow they
raise no corn or Beens, Gibson killed a Buffalow in the Town, The two men
which has been absent several Days is ahead, we came to on the upper pt.
of a large Island at 3 oClock to make a mast Sent out Some hunters on the
Island (which I call no preserve Island, at this place we used the last of
our Preservs) They killed 3 bucks, & two Elk which welurked
[Clark, September 5, 1804]
September 5th Wednesday 1804 Set out early the winds blew hard from the
South, Goats turkeys Seen to day, passed a large Island (1) opsd. this
Island near the head the Poncasar River Coms into the Missourie from the
West this river is about 30 yards wide. dispatched two men to the
Poncaries Village Situated in a handsom Plain on the lower Side of this
Creek about two miles from the Missourie (the Poncasars nation is Small
and at this time out in the praries hunting the Buffalow), one of the men
Sent to the Village Killed a Buffalow in the town, the other, a large Buck
near it, Some Sign of the two men who is a head.
above the Island on the S. S We passed under a Bluff of Blue earth, under
which Seveal Mineral Springs broke out of the water of which had a taste
like Salts, we Came too on the upper point of a large Island (which I call
No preserves Island) here we made a Ceeder Mast, our hunters brought in
three bucks, and two elks this evening which we had jurked
One of the hunter Shields, informed that he Saw Several black tailed Deer,
near the Poncaser Village
[Lewis, September 5, 1804]
Sept 5th saw some wild goats or antelopes on the hill above the Glauber
Salts Springs they ran off we could not discover them sufficiently
distinctly to discribe even their colour their track is as large as a deer
reather broader & more blont at the point
This day one of our hunters brought us a Serpent beautifully variagated
with small black spotts of a romboydal form on a light yellow white ground
the black pedominates most on the back the whiteis yellow on the sides,
and it is nearly white on the belly with a few party couloured scuta on
which the black shews but imperfectly and the colouring matter seems to be
underneath the Scuta — it is not poisonous it hisses remarkably loud;
it has 221 Scuta on the belly and 51 on the tale, the eyes are of a dark
black colour the tale terminates in a sharp point like the substance of a
cock's spur — Length 4 Ft. 6 I.
[Clark, September 6, 1804]
6th Septr Thursday 1804, a Storm this morning from the N W. at day light
which lasted a fiew minits, Set out after the Storm was over and proceeded
on a hard wind ahead passed the island which is Seperated from the L. Side
by a narrow Channel. the morning is verry Cold.
Camped on S. Side before night no timbering in reach ahead, R. Fields
killed 2 Deer Saw Buffalow, & Goats this evening, the river riseing a
little
[Clark, September 6, 1804]
Septr. 6th Thursday 1804 a Storm this morning from the N. W. which lasted
a fiew minits, we Set out and proceeded on passed the head of the Isd.
which is Seperated from the L. S by a narrow Channel, a hard wind from the
N. W. a verry Cold day — we Camped on the S. S. at the upper point of
Some timber, Some time before night, no timber, no timber being in reach.
I saw Several goats on the hills on the S. S. also Buffalow in great
numbers
[Clark, September 7, 1804]
7th September Friday 1804. a verry Cold morning Set out at Day light
near the foot of this high Nole we discovered a Village of an annamale the
french Call the Prarie Dog which burrow in the grown & with the rattle
Snake and Killed one & Caught one Dog alive caught in a whole 2 frogs
near the hole Killed a Dark Rattle Snake with a Prairie dog in him
The Village of those little dogs is under the ground a conisiderable
distance we dig under 6 feet thro rich hard clay without getting to their
Lodges Some of their wholes we put in 5 barrels of water without driveing
them out, we caught one by the water forceing him out. ther mouth resemble
the rabit, head longer, legs short, & toe nails
long ther tail like a ground Squirel which they Shake and make chattering
noise ther eyes like a dog, their colour is Gray and Skin contains Soft
fur
[Clark, September 7, 1804]
7th Septr. 1804 Septr. 7th Friday a verry Cold morning Set out at day
light we landed after proceding 51/2 miles, near the foot of a round
mounting which I saw yesterday resembling a dome.
Capt Lewis & my Self walked up, to the top which forms a Cone and is
about 70 feet higher than the high lands around it, the Bass is about 300
foot in decending this Cupola, discovered a Village of Small animals that
burrow in the grown (those animals are Called by the french Pitite Chien)
Killed one & Cought one a live by poreing a great quantity of water in
his hole we attempted to dig to the beds of one of thos animals, after
diging 6 feet, found by running a pole down that we were not half way to
his Lodges, we found 2 frogs in the hole, and killed a Dark rattle Snake
near with a Ground rat in him, (those rats are numerous) the Village of
those animals Covs. about 4 acrs of Ground on a Gradual decent of a hill
and Contains great numbers of holes on the top of which those little
animals Set erect make a Whistleing noise and whin allarmed Slip into
their hole — we por'd into one of the holes 5 barrels of water without
filling it, Those Animals are about the Size of a Small Squrel Shorter
& thicker, the head much resembling a Squirel in every respect, except
the ears which is Shorter, his tail like a ground Squirel which thy Shake
& whistle when allarmd. the toe nails long, they have fine fur &
the longer hair is gray, it is Said that a kind of Lizard also a Snake
reside with those animals. Camped
[Lewis and Clark, September 8, 1804]
8th of September 1804 Satturday. Set out early and proceeded on under a
Gentle breese from the S. E. at 3 mes passed the place where Trodow
wintered one winter
I went out to day on the S. S with a view to find Some of the little dogs,
and Coats, Traveled over a riged and mountanious Countrey without water
& riseing to 5 or 600 hundred feet, Islands & Sands interveneing
prevt. my getting to the boat untill after night, in my absent Capt. Lewis
killed a Buffalow, I saw Greid many Buffalow & white wolves. (Sailed
all day)
[Clark, September 8, 1804]
8th of September Satturday Set out early and proceeded on under a gentle
Breeze from the S. E, at 3 mes. passed the house of Troodo where he
wintered in 96. Called the Pania house, above is high hills on the S. S.
on the S. S. much higher hills than usial appear to the North distant 8
miles recently burnt- pass 3 Small Islands at about 5 miles on this Course
on the S. S. here Capt. Lewis Killed a Buffalow in the river, and this men
one other Came to on the lower point of an Island in the midlle of the
river Called Boat Island and incamped, jurked the meet Killed to day
Consisting of 2 buffalow, one large Buck Elk one Small, 4 Deer 3 Turkeys
& a Squirel, I joined the boat at this Camp, The Countrey on the S S.
is pore & broken.
[Clark and Whitehouse, September 9, 1804]
9th Septembr Sunday, Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on passed the Island
Several gangus of Buffalow on the Sides of the hils on the L. S. halted on
L. Side took breakfast. Capt. Clark walked on Shore, we proceeded on
R. Fields came to the Boat had killed one Buffalow. passed red ceeder on
the edge of the hills on bouth Sides of the river but most on the bluff on
[Clark, September 9, 1804]
9th September Sunday 1804 Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on passed the
head of the Island on which we Camped, passed three Sand & willow
Islands, the Sand bars So noumerous, it is not worth mentioning them, the
river Shoal or Shallow wind S E Came too and Camped on a Sand bar on the
L. S. Capt Lewis went out to Kill a buffalow. I walked on Shore all this
evening with a view to Kill a Goat or Some Prarie Dogs in the evening
after the boat landed, I Derected my Servent York with me to kill a
Buffalow near the boat from a numbr. then Scattered in the plains, I saw
at one view near the river at least 500 Buffalow, those animals have been
in view all day feeding in the Plains on the L. S. every Copse of timber
appear to have Elk or Deer. D. Killed 3 Deer, I Kiled a Buffalow Y. 2, R.
Fields one.
[Lewis, September 9, 1804]
Sept. 9th Capt. Clark found on the Lard shore under a high bluff issuing
from a blue earth a bittuminus matter resembling molasses in consistance,
colour and taste-
[Clark, September 10, 1804]
10th September Monday a Cloudy morning Set out early under a Gentle Breeze
from the S E. passed two Small Islands one on the L. S. & the other on
the S. S. both in the first Course at 101/2 miles passed the lower pt. of
Ceder Island Situated in a bend to the L. S. this Island is about 2 miles
long Covered with red Ceder, the river is verry Shallow opsd. this Island — below
the Island on the top of a ridge we found a back bone with the most of the
entire laying Connected for 45 feet those bones are petrified, Some teeth
& ribs also Connected. at 3 mes. above ceder I passed a large Island
on the S. S. to this Island Several Elk Swam above this Island on the
Midle is Situated 2 Islands small one above the other, those Islands are
Called mud Islands and camped on the upper Island of them 3 Buffalow 1 Elk
&c. Killed to day, river falling a large Salt Spring of remarkable
Salt water much frequented by Buffalow, Some Smaller Springs on the Side
of the hill above less Salt, the water excesiv Salt, and is 11/2 miles
from the river on the S. W. or L. S. opposit Ceder Island-
[Clark, September 10, 1804]
10th September Monday 1804. a Cloudy dark morning Set out early, a Gentle
breeze from the S. E, passed two Small Islands on the L. S. and one on the
S. S. all in the first Course at 101/2 miles passed the lower point of an
(2) Island Covered with red Ceeder Situated in a bend on the L. S. this
Island is about 2 Moles in length (1) below this on a hill on the L. S. we
found the back bone of a fish, 45 feet long tapering to the tale, &c.
those joints were Seperated and all petrefied, opposit this Island 11/2
miles from the river on the L. S. is a large Salt Spring of remarkable
Salt water. one other high up the hill 1/2 me. not So Salt.
we proceeded on under a Stiff Breeze. three miles above Ceder Island
passed a large Island on the S. S, no water on that Side (3) Several elk
Swam to this Island passed a Small Island near the Center of the river, of
a mile in length, and Camped on one aboav Seperated from the other by a
narrow Chanel, Those Islands are Called Mud Islands — the hunters
killed 3 fuffalow & one Elk to day. The river is falling a little,
Great number of Buffalow & Elk on the hill Sides feeding deer Scerce
we came too at the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. at Dark in a heavy Shower
of rain, it Continued to rain the greater part of the night, with a hard
wind from the N W Cold
[Clark, September 11, 1804]
Septr. 11th Tuesday 1804 Set out early a Cloudy morning the river verry
wide from one hill to the other, with many Sand bars passed the Isd. on
which we lay at a mile passed three Isds. one on the L. S. (1/4 of a mile
from it on the L. S. a village of little Dogs. I Killed four, this village
is 800 yards wide & 970 yds. long on a jentle Slope of a hill in a
plain, those animals are noumerous) the other two Islands are on the S. S.
the river is verry Shallow & wide, the boat got a ground Several times — The
man G Shannon, who left us with the horses above the Mahar Village, and
beleving us to be ahead pushed on as long as he Could, joined us he Shot
away what fiew Bullets he had with him, and in a plentiful) Countrey like
to have Starvd. he was 12 days without provision, Subsisting on Grapes at
the Same the Buffalow, would Come within 30 yards of his Camp, one of his
horses gave out & he left him before his last belluts were Consumed — I
saw 3 large Spoted foxes today a black tailed Deer, & Killed a Buck
elk & 2 Deer, one othr Elk 2 Deer & a Porkipine Killed to day at
12 oClock it became Cloudy and rained all the after noon, & night.
[Clark, September 11, 1804]
Sept. 11th Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning, Set out verry early, the river
wide & Shallow the bottom narrow, & the river Crouded with Sand
bars, passed the Island on which we lay at one mile-, pased three Islands
one on the L. S. and 2 on the S. S. opposit the Island on the L. S. I Saw
a village of Barking Squriel 970 yds. long, and 800 yds. wide Situated on
a gentle Slope of a hill, those anamals are noumerous, I killed 4 with a
view to have their Skins Stufed.
here the man who left us with the horses 22 days ago and has been a head
ever Since joined, us nearly Starved to Death, he had been 12 days without
any thing to eate but Grapes & one Rabit, which he Killed by shooting
a piece of hard Stick in place of a ball-. This man Supposeing the boat to
be a head pushed on as long as he Could, when he became weak and fiable
deturmined to lay by and waite for a tradeing boat, which is expected
Keeping one horse for the last resorse, — thus a man had like to have
Starved to death in a land of Plenty for the want of Bulletes or Something
to kill his meat we Camped on the L. S. above the mouth of a run a hard
rain all the after noon, & most of the night, with hard wind from the
N W. I walked on Shore the fore part of this day over Some broken Country
which Continus about 3 miles back & then is leavel & rich all
Plains, I saw Several foxes & Killed a Elk & 2 Deer. &
Squirels the men with me killed an Elk, 2 Deer & a Pelican
Some rain all day to day & Cold
I walked on Shore Saw Several foxes Several Villages of Prarie dogs, and a
number of Grouse
[Clark, September 12, 1804]
Septr. 12th Wednesday 1804 a Dark Cloudy Day the wind hard from the N. W.
we passed (1) a Island the middle of the river at the head of which we
found great dificuelty in passing between the Sand bars the water Swift
and Shallow, it took 3/4 of the day to make one mile, we Camped on the L.
S. opsd. a Village of Barking Prarie Squriels
I walked out in the morning and Saw Several Villages of those little
animals, also a great number of Grous & 3 foxes, and observed Slate
& Coal mixed, Some verry high hills on each Side of the river. rains a
little all day.
[Clark, September 13, 1804]
13th Septr. Thursday 1804 a Dark Drizzley Day, G D Cought 4 Beaver last
night the winds from the N W. Cold Set out early and proceeded on verry
well passed a number of Sand bars, Capt Lewis killed a Porcupin on a
Cotton treee fieeding on the leaves & bowers of the Said tree, the
water is verry Shallow being Crouded with Sand bars Camped on the S. Side
under a Bluff. the Bluffs on the S. S. not So much impregnated with
mineral as on the L. S. muskeetors verry troublesom-.
[Lewis, September 13, 1804]
September 13th Killed a bluewinged teal and a Porcupine; found it in a
Cottonwood tree near the river on the Lard. Shore — the leaves of the
Cottonwood were much distroyed — as were those of the Cottonwood trees
in it's neighbourhood. I therefore supposed that it fed on the folage of
trees at this season, the flesh of this anamal is a pleasant and whoalsome
food — the quills had not yet obtained their usual length — it has
four long toes, before on each foot, and the same number behind with the
addition of one short one on each hind foot on the inner side. the toes of
the feet are armed with long black nails particularly the fore feet- they
weigh from 15 to 20 lbs — they resemble the slowth very much in the
form of their hands, or fore feet. their teeth and eyes are like the bever
[Clark, September 14, 1804]
Septr 14th Friday 1804 Course Dists & rifur. Set out early proceeded
on passed Several Sand bars water wide & Shallow N. 68° W. 23/4 mes.
to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. passed a round Island on the S S. — Caught
3 beaver last night, Some drizzeley rain Cloudy & Disagreeable and Som
hard Showers, I walked on Shore with a view to find an old Volcano Said to
be in this neghbourhood by Mr. McKey I was Some distance out Could not See
any Signs of a Volcanoe, I killed a Goat, which is peculier to this
Countrey about the hite of a Grown Deer Shorter, its horns Coms out
immediately abov its eyes broad 1 Short prong the other arched & Soft
the color is a light gray with black behind its ears, white round its
neck, no beard, his Sides & belly white, and around its taile which is
Small & white and Down its hams, actively made his brains on the back
of its head, his noisterals large, his eyes like a Sheep only 2 hoofs on
each foot no antelrs (more like the antelope or gazella of Africa than any
other Specis of Goat). Shields Killed a Hare weighing 61/2 lb. verry pore,
the head narrow and its ears 3 Inches wide and 6 long, from the fore to
the end of the hind foot; is 2 feet 11 Inch. hite 1 foot 13/4 its tail
long & thick white, clearly the mountain Hare of Europe, a rainy
evening all wett The Soil of those Plains washes down into the flats, with
the Smallest rain & disolves & mixes with the water we See back
from the river high hills in a leavel plain, evidently the remains of
mountains, what mud washed into the river within those few days has made
it verry mudy, passed two Small Creeks on the L. S. & Camped below a
3rd on the L. S. rained all evening
[Clark, September 14, 1804]
14th Septr. Friday 1804. Set out early proceeded on passed Several Sand
bars the river wide and Shallow 3 beaver Caught last night, Drizeley rain
in the forepart of this day, cloudy and disagreeable, I walked on Shore
with a view to find an old Vulcanio, Said to be in this neighbourhood by
Mr. J. McKey of St. Charles. I walked on Shore the whole day without
Seeing any appearance of the Villcanoe, in my walk I Killed a Buck Goat of
this Countrey, about the hight. of the Grown Deer, its body Shorter, the
Horns which is not very hard and forks 2/3 up one prong Short the other
round & Sharp arched, and is imediately above its Eyes the Colour is a
light gray with black behind its ears down its neck, and its Jaw white
round its neck, its Sides and its rump round its tail which is Short &
white verry actively made, has only a pair of hoofs to each foot. his
brains on the back of his head, his Norstral large, his eyes like a Sheep — he
is more like the Antilope or Gazella of Africa than any other Species of
Goat. Shields Killed a Hare like the mountain hare of Europe, waighing
61/4 pounds (altho pore) his head narrow, its ears large i, e, 6 Inches
long & 3 Inchs wide one half of each white, the other & out part a
lead grey from the toe of the hind foot to toe of the for foot is 2 feet
11 Inches, the hith is 1 foot 1 Inche & 3/4, his tail long thick &
white.
The rain Continued the Greater part of the day in My ramble I observed,
that all those parts of the hills which was Clear of Grass easily disolved
and washed into the river and bottoms, and those hils under which the
river run, Sliped into it and disolves and mixes with the water of the
river, the bottoms of the river was covered with the water and mud frome
the hills about three Inches deep — those bottoms under the hils which
is Covered with Grass also a great quantity of mud.
Passed 2 Small Creeks on the L. S and Camped below the third, (the place
that Shannon the man who went a head lived on grapes) Some heavy Showers
of rain all wet, had the Goat & rabit Stufed rained all night
[Lewis, September 14, 1804]
September 14th 1804 this day Capt. Clark killed a male wild goat so called — it's
weight 65 lbs.
| | Feet | Inches |
| length from point of nose to point of tail | 4 | 9 |
| hight to the top of the wethers | 3 | - |
| do. behind | 3 | - |
| girth of the brest | 3 | 1 |
| girth of the neck close to the shoulders | 2 | 2 |
| do. near the head | 1 | 7 |
Eye deep sea green, large percing and reather prominent, & at or near
the root of the horn within one 1/4 inches
[Lewis, September 14, 1804]
Sept. 14th 1804. Shields killed a hare of the prarie, weight six pounds
and 1/4
| | F. | I. |
| Length from point of hind to extremity fore feet | 2 | 11 |
| hight when standing erect | 1 | 1 3/4 |
| length from nose to tale | 2 | 1 |
| girth of body | 1 | 2 3/4 |
| length of tale | | |
| length of the year | — | 5 1/2 |
| width of do. do. | — | 3 1/8 |
| from the extremity of the hip to the toe of the hind foot | 1 | 3 1/2 |
the eye is large and prominent the sight is circular, deep sea green, and
occupyes one third of the width of the eye the remaining two thirds is a
ring of a bright yellowish silver colour. the years ar placed at the upper
part of the head and very near to each other, the years are very flexable,
the anamall moves them with great ease and quickness and can contrat and
foald them on his back or delate them at pleasure — the front outer
foald of the year is a redis brown, the inner foalds or those which ly
together when the years are thrown back and wich occupy two thirds of the
width of the year is of a clear white colour except one inch at the tip of
the year which is black, the hinder foald is of a light grey — the
head back sholders and outer part of the thighs are of a ledcoloured grey
the sides as they approache the belly grow lighter becomeing gradually
more white the belly and brest are white with a shad of lead colour — the
furr is long and fine — the tale is white round and blounty pointed
the furr on it is long and extreemly fine and soft when it runs it carry's
it's tale strait behind the direction of the body — the body is much
smaller and more length than the rabbit in proportion to it's height — the
teeth are like those of the hair or rabbit as is it's upper lip split — it's
food is grass or herbs — it resorts the open plains, is extreemly
fleet and never burrows or takes shelter in the ground when pursued, I
measured the leaps of one which I suprised in the plains on the 17th Inst.
and found them 21 feet the ground was a little decending they apear to run
with more ease and to bound with greater agility than any anamall I ever
saw. this anamal is usually single seldom associating in any considerable
numbers.
[Clark, September 15, 1804]
September the 15th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed the Mouth of a
creek on the L S. where Shannon lived on grapes waiting for Mr. Clintens
boat Supposeing we had went on, Capt Lewis and my Self halted at the mouth
of White River & wend up a Short Crossed &, this river is about
400 yards, the water Confined within 150 yards, the Current regularly
Swift, much resembling the Missourie, Sand bars makeing out from the
points, Some Islands we Sent up two men to go up this river one Day and
Meet us to morrow we proceeded on passed a Small Island Covered with Ceder
timber, & great number of rabits, no game except rabits, and Camped on
the S. S. opposit a large Creek, on which there is more wood than usial on
Creeks in this quaterr this creek raised 14 feet last rain I Killed a Buck
elk & a Deer.
[Clark, September 15, 1804]
15th September Satturday 1804 Set out early passed the mo of the Creek,
and the mouth of White river; (1) Capt Lewis and my Self went up this
river a Short distance and Crossed, found that this differed verry much
from the Plat or que Courre, threw out but little Sand, about 300 yard
wide, the water confind within 150 yards, the current regular & Swift
much resemblig the Missourie, with Sand bars from the points a Sand Island
in the mouth, in the point is a butifull Situation for a Town 3 Gradual
assents, and a much Greater quantity of timber about the mouth of this
river than usial, we concluded to Send Some distance up this river
detached Sjt. Gass & R. Fields. we proceeded on passed a Small (2)
Island Covered with Ceeder on I Saw great numbers of Rabits & Grapes,
this Island is Small & Seperated from a large Sand Isd. at its upper
point by a narrow Channel, & is Situated nearest the L. Side. Camped
on the S. S. opposit the mouth of a large Creek on which there is more
timber than is usial on Creeks of this Size, this Creek raised 14 feet the
last rains. I killed a Buck Elk & Deer, this evening is verry Cold,
Great many wolves of Different Sorts howling about us. the wind is hard
from the N W this evening
[Lewis, September 16, 1804]
Sunday September 16th 1804. This morning set out at an early hour, and
come too at 1/2 after 7 A.M. on the Lard. Shore 11/4 miles above the mouth
of a small creek which we named Corvus, in consequence of having kiled a
beatiful bird of that genus near it we concluded to ly by at this place
the ballance of this day and the next, in order to dry our baggage which
was wet by the heavy showers of rain which had fallen within the last
three days, and also to lighten the boat by transfering a part of her
lading to the red perogue, which we now determined to take on with us to
our winter residence wherever that might be; while some of the men were
imployed in this necessary labour others were dressing of skins washing
and mending their cloaths &c. Capt. Clark and myself kiled each a buck
immediately on landing near our encampment; the deer were very gentle and
in great numbers on this bottom which had more timber on it than any part
of the river we had seen for many days past, consisting of Cottonwood Elm,
some indifferent ash and a considerable quanty of a small species of white
oak which is loaded with acorns of an excellent flavor very little of the
bitter roughness of the nuts of most species of oak, the leaf of this oak
is small pale green and deeply indented, it seldom rises higher than
thirty feet is much branched, the bark is rough and thick and of a light
colour; the cup which contains the acorn is fringed on it's edges and
imbraces the nut about one half; the acorns were now falling, and we
concluded that the number of deer which we saw here had been induced
thither by the acorns of which they are remarkably fond. almost every
species of wild game is fond of the acorn, the Buffaloe Elk, deer, bear,
turkies, ducks, pigegians and even the wolves feed on them; we sent three
hunters out who soon added eight deer and two Buffaloe to our strock of
provisions; the Buffaloe were so pour that we took only the tongues skins
and marrow bones; the skins were particularly acceptable as we were in
want of a covering for the large perogue to secure the baggage; the clouds
during this day and night prevented my making any observations. Sergt.
Gass and Reubin Fields whom we had sent out yesterday to explore the White
river returnd at four oclock this day and reported that they had foil
meanders of that stream about 12 miles r's general course West, the
present or principal channel iro yards wide; the coulour of the water and
rapidity and manner of runing resembled the Missouri presisely; the
country broken on the border of the river about a mile, when the level
planes commence and extend as far as the eye can reach on either side; as
usual no timber appeared except such as from the steep declivities of
hills, or their moist situations, were sheltered from the effects of the
fire. these extensive planes had been lately birnt and the grass had
sprung up and was about three inches high. vast herds of Buffaloe deer Elk
and Antilopes were seen feeding in every direction as far as the eye of
the observer could reach.
[Clark, September 16, 1804]
September 16th Sunday, we proceeded on 11/4 Miles and Camped on the L.
Side in a butifull Plain Surounded with timber in which we Saw Severall
Der, we delayed here for the purpose of Drying the articles which were wet
& the cloathes to Load the Perogue which we had intended to send back,
finding the water too Shoal Deturmind to take on the Perogue also to make
Some observations for Longitude &c. the two men G. & R. F. joined
us and informed "that the river as far as they were up had much the
Appearance of the river about the mouth, but little timber and that
chiefly elm", the up land between this river & the White river is
fine, Great numbers of Goat, Deer of three kinds, Buffalow, & wolves,
& Barking Squrels, The fallow Deer, Cloudy, all day Cleaning out the
boat examining & Drying the goods, & loading the Perogue, I killed
2 Deer Capt Lewis one & a Buffalow, one Buffalow & five other Deer
Killed. I observed Pine Burs & Burch Sticks in the Drift wood up white
river which Coms in on the L. S. imedeately in the point is a butifull
Situation for a town 3 Gentle rises, & more timber about the mouth of
this river than usial
[Clark, September 16, 1804]
16th of September Sunday 1804 We Set out verry early & proceed'd on
11/4 miles between Sand bars and Came too on the L. S. (1) — deturmined
to dry our wet thig and liten the boat which we found could not proceed
with the present load for this purpose we Concluded to detain the Perogue
we had intended to Send back & load her out of the boat & detain
the Soldiers untill Spring & Send them from our winter quarters. We
put out those articles which was wet, Clean'd the boat & perogus,
examined all the Locker Bails &. &c. &.
This Camp is Situated in a butifull Plain Serounded with Timber to the
extent of 3/4 of a mile in which there is great quantities of fine Plumbs
The two men detachd up the White river joined us here & informed that
the river as far as they were up had much the appearance of the Missourie
Som Islands & Sands little Timber Elm, (much Signs of Beaver, Great
many buffalow) & Continud its width, they Saw & well as my Self
Pine burs & Sticks of Birch in the Drift wood up this river, They Saw
also Number of Goats Such as I Killed, also wolves near the Buffalow
falling Deer, & the Barking Squrels Villages Capt. Lewis went to hunt
& See the Countrey near the Kamp he killed a Buffalow & a Deer
Cloudy all day I partly load the empty Perogue out of the Boat. I killed 2
Deer & the party 4 Deer & a Buffalow the we kill for the Skins to
Cover the Perogus, the meet too pore to eat. Capt Lewis went on an Island
above our Camp, this Island is abt. one mile long, with a Great purpotion
ceder timber near the middle of it
I gave out a flannel Shirt to each man, & powder to those who had
expended thers
[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Monday September 17th 1804. Having for many days past confined myself to
the boat, I determined to devote this day to amuse myself on shore with my
gun and view the interior of the country lying between the river and the
Corvus Creek- accordingly before sunrise I set out with six of my best
hunters, two of whom I dispatched to the lower side of Corvus creek, two
with orders to hunt the bottoms and woodland on the river, while I
retained two others to acompany me in the intermediate country. one
quarter of a mile in rear of our camp which was situated in a fine open
grove of cotton wood passed a grove of plumb trees loaded with fruit and
now ripe. observed but little difference between this fruit and that of a
similar kind common to the Atlantic States. the trees are smaller and more
thickly set. this forrest of plumb trees garnish a plain about 20 feet
more lelivated than that on which we were encamped; this plain extends
back about a mile to the foot of the hills one mile distant and to which
it is gradually ascending this plane extends with the same bredth from the
creek below to the distance of near three miles above parrallel with the
river, and is intirely occupyed by the burrows of the barking squril
hertefore discribed; this anamal appears here in infinite numbers, and the
shortness and virdue of grass gave the plain the appearance throughout
it's whole extent of beatifull bowlinggreen in fine order. it's aspect is
S. E. a great number of wolves of the small kind, balks and some pole-cats
were to be seen. I presume that those anamals feed on this squirril. — found
the country in every direction for about three miles intersected with deep
reveries and steep irregular hills of 100 to 200 feet high; at the tops of
these hills the country breakes of as usual into a fine leavel plain
extending as far as the eye can reach. from this plane I had an extensive
view of the river below, and the irregular hills which border the opposite
sides of the river and creek. the surrounding country had been birnt about
a month before and young grass had now sprung up to hight of 4 Inches
presenting the live green of the spring. to the West a high range of
hills, strech across the country from N. to S and appeared distant about
20 miles; they are not very extensive as I could plainly observe their
rise and termination no rock appeared on them and the sides were covered
with virdue similar to that of the plains this senery already rich
pleasing and beatiful, was still farther hightened by immence herds of
Buffaloe deer Elk and Antelopes which we saw in every direction feeding on
the hills and plains. I do not think I exagerate when I estimate the
number of Buffaloe which could be compreed at one view to amount to 3000.
my object was if possible to kill a female Antelope having already
procured a male; I pursued my rout on this plain to the west flanked by my
two hunters untill eight in the morning when I made the signal for them to
come to me which they did shortly after. we rested our selves about half
an hour, and regailed ourselves on half a bisquit each and some jirk of
Elk which we had taken the precaution to put in our pouches in the morning
before we set out, and drank of the water of a small pool which had
collected on this plain from the rains which had fallen some days before.
We had now after various windings in pursuit of several herds of antelopes
which we had seen on our way made the distance of about eight miles from
our camp. we found the Antelope extreemly shye and watchfull insomuch that
we had been unable to get a shot at them; when at rest they generally
seelect the most elivated point in the neighbourhood, and as they are
watchfull and extreemly quick of sight and their sense of smelling very
accute it is almost impossible to approach them within gunshot; in short
they will frequently discover and flee from you at the distance of three
miles. I had this day an opportunity of witnessing the agility and
superior fleetness of this anamal which was to me really astonishing. I
had pursued and twice surprised a small herd of seven, in the first
instance they did not discover me distinctly and therefore did not run at
full speed, tho they took care before they rested to gain an elivated
point where it was impossible to approach them under cover except in one
direction and that happened to be in the direction from which the wind
blew towards them; bad as the chance to approach them was, I made the best
of my way towards them, frequently peeping over the ridge with which I
took care to conceal myself from their view the male, of which there was
but one, frequently incircled the summit of the hill on which the females
stood in a group, as if to look out for the approach of danger. I got
within about 200 paces of them when they smelt me and fled; I gained the
top of the eminece on which they stood, as soon as possible from whence I
had an extensive view of the country the antilopes which had disappeared
in a steep revesne now appeared at the distance of about three miles on
the side of a ridge which passed obliquely across me and extended about
four miles. so soon had these antelopes gained the distance at which they
had again appeared to my view I doubted at ferst that they were the same
that I had just surprised, but my doubts soon vanished when I beheld the
rapidity of their flight along the ridge before me it appeared reather the
rappid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds. I think I can safely
venture the asscertion that the speed of this anamal is equal if not
superior to that of the finest blooded courser. — this morning I saws
[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of Septr. Monday 1804 above White river Dried all those articles
which had got wet by the last rain, a fine day Capt Lewis went hunting
with a vew to seethe Countrey &its productions, he was out all Day
Killed a Buffalow & a remarkable bird of the Spicies of Corvus, long
tail of a Greenish Purple, Varigated a Beck like a Crow white round its
neck comeing to a point on its back, its belley white feet like a Hawk
abt. the size of a large Pigeon Capt Lewis returned at Dark. I took the
Meridian & equal altitudes to day made the Lattitude.
Colter Killed a Goat, & a Curious kind of Deer, a Darker grey than
Common the hair longer & finer, the ears verry large & long a
Small resepitical under its eye its tail round and white to near the end
which is black & like a Cow in every other respect like a Deer, except
it runs like a goat. large.
The hunters brought in 8 fallow Deer & 5 Common Deer to day, Great
numbers of Buffalow in the Praries, also a light Coloured woolf Covered
with hair & corse fur, also a Small wolf with a large bushey tail — Some
Goats of a Different Kind Seen to day, — Great many Plumbs, rabits,
Porcupines & barking Squrels, Capt Lewis Killed a rattle Snake in a
village of the Squirel's and Saw a Hair to day. Wind from the S. W. we
finished Drying our Provisions Some of which was wet and Spoiled,
[Clark, September 17, 1804]
17th of September Monday 1804 Dried all our wet articles this fine Day,
Capt Lewis went out with a View to see the Countrey and its productions,
he was out all day he killed a Buffalow and a remarkable Bird of the
Corvus Species long tail the upper part of the feathers & also the
wing is of a purplish variated Green, the black, a part of the wing
feather are white edjed with black, white belley, white from the root of
the wings to Center of the back is white, the head nake breast & other
parts are black the Becke like a Crow. abt. the Size of a large Pigion. a
butifull thing (See Suplement in No. 3)
I took equal altitudes and a meridian altitude. Capt. Lewis returned at
Dark, Colter Killed a Goat like the one I killed and a curious kind of
deer of a Dark gray Colr. more so than common, hair long & fine, the
ears large & long, a Small reseptical under the eyes; like an Elk, the
Taile about the length of Common Deer, round (like a Cow) a tuft of black
hair about the end, this Speces of Deer jumps like a goat or Sheep
8 fallow Deer 5 Common & 3 buffalow killed to day, Capt. Lewis Saw a
hare & Killed a Rattle Snake in a village of B. squerels The wind from
S. W. Dryed our provisions, Some of which was much Damaged.
[Lewis, September 17, 1804]
Sept. 17th one of the hunters killed a bird of the Corvus genus and order
of the pica & about the size of a jack-daw with a remarkable long
tale. beautifully variagated. it note is not disagreeable though loud it
is twait twait twait, twait; twait, twait twait, twait.
| | F | I |
| from tip to tip of wing | 1 | 10 |
| Do. beak to extremity of tale | 1 | 8 1/2 |
| of which the tale occupys | 1 | 1 |
| from extremity of middle toe to hip | | 5 1/2 |
it's head, beak, and neck are large for a bird of it's size; the beak is
black, and of a convex and cultrated figure, the chops nearly equal, and
it's base large and beset with hairs — the eyes are black encircled
with a narrow ring of yellowish black it's head, neck, brest & back
within one inch of the tale are of a fine glossey black, as are also the
short fathers of the under part of the wing, the thies and those about the
root of the tale. the belly is of a beatifull white which passes above and
arround the but of the wing, where the feathers being long reach to a
small white spot on the rump one inch in width — the wings have
nineteen feathers, of which the ten first have the longer side of their
plumage white in the midde of the feather and occupying unequal lengths of
the same from one to three inches, and forming when the wing is spead a
kind of triangle the upper and lower part of these party coloured feathers
on the under side of the wing being of dark colour but not jut or shining
black. the under side of the remaining feathers of the wing are darker.
the upper side of the wing, as well as the short side of the plumage of
the party coloured feathers is of a dark blackis or bluish green sonetimes
presenting as light orange yellow or bluish tint as it happens to be
presented to different exposures of ligt — the plumage of the tale
consits of 12 feathers of equal lengths by pairs, those in the center are
the longest, and the others on each side deminishing about an inch each
pair — the underside of the feathers is a pale black, the upper side
is a dark bluefish green which like the outer part of the wings is
changable as it reflects different portions of light. towards the the
extremely of these feathers they become of an orrange green, then shaded
pass to a redish indigo blue, and again at the extremity assume the
predominant colour of changeable green — the tints of these feathers
are very similar and equally as beatiful and rich as the tints of blue and
green of the peacock — it is a most beatifull bird. — the legs and
toes are black and imbricated. it has four long toes, three in front and
one in rear, each terminated with a black sharp tallon from 3/8ths to 1/2
an inch in length. — these birds are seldom found in parties of more
than three or four and most usually at this season single as the balks and
other birds of prey usually are — it's usual food is flesh — this
bird dose not spread it's tail when it flys and the motion of it's wings
when flying is much like that of a Jay-bird-
The White turkey of the black hills from information of a french lad who
wintered with the Chien Indians About the size of the common wild turkey
the plumage perfectly white — this bird is booted as low as the toes-
[Clark, September 18, 1804]
Septr. 18 I Killed a prarie wolf to day about the Sise of a Gray fox with
a bushey tail the head and ears like a Fox wolf, and barks like a Small
Dog — The annimale which we have taken for the Fox is this wolf, we
have seen no Foxes.
18 Septr. Tuesday Set out early wind from the N W. Modrt. our boat being
much litened goes much better than usial
[Clark, September 18, 1804]
September 18th Tuesday 1804 Wind from the N W. we Set out early the boat
much lightened, the wind a head proceed on verry Slowly (1) Passed an I a
Island about the middle of the river at 1 Mile this Island is about a mile
long, and has a great perpotion of red Cedir on it, a Small Creek comes in
on the S. S. opposit the head of the Island, proceeded on passed many Sand
bars and Camped on the L. S. before night the wind being verry hard &
a head all Day. the hunters Killed 10 Deer to day and a Prarie wolf, had
it all jurked & Skins Stretchd after Camping I walked on Shore Saw
Goats, Elk, Buffalow, Black tail Deer, & the Common Deer, I Killed a
Prarie Wollf, about the Size of a gray fox bushey tail head & ear like
a wolf, Some fur Burrows in the ground and barks like a Small Dog.
what has been taken heretofore for the Fox was those wolves, and no Foxes
has been Seen; The large wolves are verry numourous, they are of a light
Colr. large & has long hair with Corrs fur.
Some Goats of a Different Kind Wer Seen yesterday Great many Porcupin
rabits & Barking Squirils in this quarter. Plumbs & grapes.
[Lewis, September 18, 1804]
Sept. 18th this day saw the first brant on their return from the north-
[Clark, September 19, 1804]
(1) & (2) passed a large Island Situated nearest the S. S. 1/2 a mile
from the Lower pt. of this Island, the 1st of the 3 rivers mouths which is
about 35 yards wide, running from the N E. one mile above the 2nd Comes in
this is Small not more that 15 yards wide a Short Distance above a 3d
comes in scattering its waters thro a bottom. I walked on Shore to See
this great Pass of the Sioux and Calumet ground, found it a handsom
Situation, and Saw the remains of their Campt on the 2d river, for many
years passed — (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. 15 yds wide we (4)
passed a Creek 20 yds wide (5) passed a Creek 20 yd. wide on the L. S. I
call Night C. as I did not get to it untill late at night, above the mouth
of this Creek we camped, the wind being favourable, for the boat I Killed
a fat Buffalow Cow, and a fat Buck elk, york my Servent Killed a Buck, the
Huntes Killed 4 Deer, & the boat Crew killed 2 Buffalow Swiming the
river, handsom Countrey of Plains, I saw many trovs of Buffalow & a
Gangue of 30 or 40 Elk and othr Scattering elk &c. a find evening I
hurt my hands & feet last night
[Clark, September 19, 1804]
19th of September Wednesday 1804 Set out early, a Cool morning verry Clear
the wind from the S. E a Bluff on the L. S. — here Commences a
Butifull Countrey on both Sides of the Missourie, (2) passed a large
Island Called Prospect Island op posit this Isd. the 3 rivers Coms in,
passing thro a butifull Plain, here I walked on Shore & Killed a fat
Cow & Sent her to the boat and proceeded on to the first of the 3
rivers, this river is about 35 yards wide Contains a good deel of water, I
walked up this river 2 miles & Cross, the bottom is high and rich Some
timber, I crossed & returned to the mouth, & proceeded up one mile
to the 2d river which is Small 12 yards wide, and on it but little timber,
on this Creek the Seaux has frequently Camped, as appears by the Signs — the
lands betwen those two Creeks in a purpindicular bluff of about 80 feet
with a butifull Plain & gentle assent back — a Short distance
above the 2nd a 3rd Creek Comes into the river in 3 places Scattering its
waters over the large timbered bottom, this Creek is near the Size of the
middle Creek Containing a greater quantity of water, those rivers is the
place that all nations who meet are at peace with each other, Called the
Seaux pass of the 3 rivers.
The boat proceeded on passd. the Island (3) passed a Creek 15 yds wide on
the L. Side (4) passed a Creek on the L. S. 20 yards wide which I Call Elm
Creek passing thro a high Plain (5) passed a Creek on the L. S. 18 yds.
wide above which the boat Came too, I joined them late at night, and Call
this Creek Night Creek the winds favourable all Day, I killed a fat buck
Elk late and could only get his Skin and a Small part of his flesh to
Camp. My Servent Killed a Buck, the Crew in the boat Killed 2 buffalow in
the river — The Hunters on Shore Killed 4 Deer with black tails one of
which was a Buck with two men Prongs on each Side forked equally, which I
never before Seen. I saw Several large gangs of Buffaloes 2 large Herds of
Elk & goats &c. (6) pass a Small Island on the S. S. opposit to
this Island on the L. S. a Creek of about 10 yards wide Coms in passing
thro a plain in which great quantities of the Prickley Pear grows. I call
this Creek Prickley Pear Creek, This Isld. is Called the lower Island it
is Situated at the Commencement of what is Called & Known by the Grand
de Tortu or Big Bend of the Missourie.
[Clark, September 20, 1804]
September the 20th Thursday 1804 Detchd. 3 men across the Big bend (Called
the Grand deTour) with the horse, to stay and hunt & jurk provisions
untill we get around (1) passed a Island on the S. S. the river Crouded
with Sand bars,
20th of September 1804 Thursday (Continued) (1) at the N W. extremity of
this bend passed an Small Island on the L. S. opposit the upper Point of
this Solitary Island Came too to _____ at the mouth of a Small run on the
S. S. & Newmon & Tomson picked up Some Salt mixed with the Sand in
the run, Such as the ottoes Indians Collect on the Sands of the Corn de
Cerf R. & make use of, Camped on a Sand bar on the S. S. above the
Island — I went out to examine the portage which I found quit Short
2000 yards only, the Prarie below & Sides of the hills containing
great quantites of the Prickly Piar which nearly ruind my feet, I saw a
hare, & I beleve he run into a hole, he run on a hill &
disapeared, I Saw on this hill several holes. I Saw Several Goats Elk Ders
&c. & Buffalow in every Detection feeding. R. Fields Killed a Deer
& 2 Goats one a female, which differs from the male as to Size being
Something Smaller, Small Straight horns without any black about the neck
Camped late
[Clark, September 20, 1804]
20th of September, Thursday 1804 a fair morning wind from the S E detached
2 men to the 1st. Creek abov the big bend with the horse to hunt and wait
our arrival proceeded on passed the lower Island opposit which the Sand
bars are verry thick & the water Shoal. I walked on Shore with a view
of examining this bend Crossed at the narost part which is a high
irregular hills of about 180 or 190 feet, this place the gorge of the Bend
is 1 mile & a quarter (from river to river or) across, from this high
land which is only in the Gouge, the bend is a Butifull Plain thro which I
walked, Saw numbrs of Buffalow & Goats, I saw a Hare & believe he
run into a hole in the Side of a hill, he run up this hill which is Small
& has Several holes on the Side & I could not See him after, I
joined the boat in the evening — passed a Small Island on the L. S. in
the N. W. extremity of the bind Called Solitary Island, and Camped late on
a Sand bar near the S. S. — R. Fields killed 1 Deer & 2 Goats one
of them a feemale — She Differs from the mail as to Size being
Smaller, with Small Horns, Stright with a Small prong without any black
about the neck None of those Goats has any Beard, they are all Keenly
made, and is butifull
[Lewis, September 20, 1804]
Septr. 20th on the lard. shore at the commencement of the big bend
observed a clift of black porus rock which resembled Lava tho on a closer
examination I believe it to be calcarious and an imperfect species of the
French burr — preserved a specemine, it is a brownish white, or black
or yellowish brown-
[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September 1804 Friday 1804, last night or reather this morng at a
half past one oClock the Sand bar on which we Camped began to give way,
which allarmed the Serjt on guard & the noise waked me, I got up and
by the light of the moon observed that the Sand was giving away both above
& beloy and would Swallow our Perogues in a few minits, ordered all
hands on board and pushed off we had not got to the opposit Shore before
pt. of our Camp fel into the river. we proceeded on to the Gorge of the
bend & brackfast, the Distance of this bend around is 30 miles, and
11/4 miles thro, the high lands extinds to the gauge and is about 200 feet
the plain in the bend as also the two opposit Sides abov and below is
delightfull plains with graduel assents from the river in which there is
at this time Great number of Buffalow Elk & Goats feedg The Course
from the gauge on the L. S. is S. 70 W. 41/2 Miles to the pt. of Ceder
Timber on the L. S. pass Sands. worthy of remark the Cat fish not So
plenty abov white river & much Smaller than usial, Great nunbers of
Brant & plover, also goat and black tail Deer.
[Clark, September 21, 1804]
21st of September Friday 1804 at half past one oClock this morning the
Sand bar on which we Camped began to under mind and give way which
allarmed the Sergeant on Guard, the motion of the boat awakened me; I get
up & by the light of the moon observed that the land had given away
both above and below our Camp & was falling in fast. I ordered all
hands on as quick as possible & pushed off, we had pushed off but a
few minets before the bank under which the Boat & perogus lay give
way, which would Certainly have Sunk both Perogues, by the time we made
the opsd. Shore our Camp fell in, we made a 2d Camp for the remainder of
the night & at Daylight proceeded on to the Gouge of this Great bend
and Brackfast, we Sent a man to measure step off the Distance across the
gouge, he made it 2000 yds. The distance arround is 30 mes. The hills
extend thro the gouge and is about 200 foot above the water — in the
bend as also the opposite Sides both abov and below the bend is a butifull
inclined Plain in which there is great numbers of Buffalow, Elk &
Goats in view feeding & Scipping on those Plains Grouse, Larks &
the Prarie bird is Common in those Plains. we proceeded on passed a (1)
willow Island below the mouth of a Small river called Tylors R about 35
yds. wide which corns in on the L. S. 6 miles above the Gorge of the bend,
at the mouth of this river the two hunters a head left a Deer & its
Skin also the Skin of a white wolfwe observe an emence number of Plover of
Different kind Collecting and takeing their flight Southerly, also Brants
which appear to move in the same Direction. The Cat fish is Small and not
So plenty as below (2) The Shore on each Side is lined with hard rough
Gulley Stones of different Sides, which has roled from the hills & out
of Small brooks, Ceder is comon here, This day is worm, the wind which is
not hard blows from the S. E, we Camped at the lower point of the Mock
Island on the S. S. this now Connected with the main land, it has the
appearance of once being an Island detached from the main land Covered
with tall Cotton wood — we Saw Some Camps and tracks of the Seaux
which appears to be old three or four weeks ago — one frenchman I fear
has got an abscess on his they, he complains verry much we are makeing
every exertion to releiv him The Praries in this quarter Contains Great
qts. of Prickley Pear.
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
22nd September Satturday 1804 a thick fog this morning untill 7 oClock
which detained us, Saw Some old tracks of the Indians on the S. S.
proceeded on — one French man with a abscess on his thigh which pains
him verry much for 10 or 12 Days a butifull Plain on both Sides low high
land under which there is a number of lage Stone, we See great numbers of
Buffalow feeding
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
A continuation of notes taken assending the Missourie in 1804-by W. Clark
Satturday the 22nd of September 1804- A Thick fog this morning detained us
untill 7 oClock, The plains on both Sides of the River is butifull and
assends gradually from the river; noumerous herds of Buffalow to be Seen
in every derections, (1) Took the altitude of the Sun & found the
Lattitude to be 44° 11' 33" N- (2) passed a Small Island on the L. S. and
one on the S. S. imediately above, & about 3 m. long, on the L. S.
opposit this Island a Creek of about 15 yds wide mouthes, Called the Creek
of the 3 Sisters (3) passed Cedar Island 11/2 M. long & 1 M. wide
Situated a little above the last and nearest the S. S.near the upper part
of this Island on its S. Side a Tradeing fort is Situated built of
Cedar-by a Mr. Louiselle of St Louis, for the purpose of Tradeing with the
Teton Bands of Soues (or "Sieux") about this Fort I saw numbers of Indians
Temporary Lodges, & horse Stables, all of them round and to a point at
top, I observed also numbers of Cotton Trees fallen for the purpose of
feeding their horses on the Bark of the limbs of those trees which is Said
to be excellent food for the horses — we came too on the S. S. below a
Small Island called Goat island, passed a no. of large round Stones, Som
distance in the river as also in the Sides of the hills, — I walked on
the Shore this evening and Killed a verry large Deer — our hunters
Killed 2 Deer & a Beaver, they Complain of the Mineral quallities of
the high land distroying their mockersons-.
[Clark, September 22, 1804]
22nd of September Satturday 1804 a thick fog this morning detained us
untill 7 oClock passed a butifull inclined Prarie on both Sides in which
we See great numbers of Buffalow feeding — (1) took the Meridean
altitude of the Suns upper Leimb. 92° 50' 00" the SexSecnt the Latd.
produced from this Obsivation is 44° 11' 33" 3/10 North (2) passed a Small
Island on the L. S. imediately above passed a Island Situated nearest the
L. S. abt. 3 miles long, behind this Isd. on the L. S. a Creek Comes in
about 15 yards wide, this Creek and Islands are Called the 3 Sisters a
butifull Plain on both Sides of the river (3) passed a Island Situated
nearest the S. S. imedeately above the last Called Ceder Island this
Island is about 11/2 miles long & nearly as wide Covered with Ceder,
on the South Side of this Island Mr. Louiselle a trader from St. Louis
built a fort of Ceder & a good house to trate with the Seaux &
wintered last winter; about this fort I observed a number of Indian Camps
in a Conicel form, — they fed their horses on Cotton limbs as appears.
here our hunters joined us havening killed 2 Deer & a Beaver, they
Complain much of the Mineral Substances in the barren hills over which
they passed distroying their mockersons.
(4) we proceeded on and Camped late on the S. Side below a Small Island in
the bend S. S. Called Goat Island. The large Stones which lay on the Sides
of the banks in Several places lay Some distance in the river, under the
water and is dangerous &.
I walked out this evening and killed a fine Deer, the musquiters is verry
troublesom in the bottoms
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
23rd Septr. Sunday 1804 (days and nights equal) Set out early under a
gentle Breeze from the S E N. 46°W 33/4 Miles to the mo. of a Creek on the
S. S. passd. a pt. on the L. S. (1) a Small Island opsd. in the bend to
the S. S. This Island is Called goat Island, (1) this Creek is 10 yards
wide. passed bad Sand bars — S. 46°W 23/4 mes. a wood at a Spring in
the bend to the L. S. Saw the Prarie a fire behind us near the head of
Ceder Island L. S. N. 80° W. 41/2 to the lower pt of Elk Island pass 2
Willow Islands & Sand I saw this morning 12 of those Black & white
birds of the corvus Species.
Capt Lewis went out to hund on the Island a great number of Buffalow in
Sight I must Seal up all those Scrips & draw from my Journal at Some
other time Win Clark Cpt.
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
Sunday the 23rd September 1804 Set out under a Gentle breeze from the S. E — (1)
passed Goat Island Situated in a bend to the S. S — above passed a
Small Creek 12 yards wide on the S. S. — we observed a great Smoke to
the SW. which is an Indian Signal of their haveing discovered us, I walked
on Shore and observed great numbers of Buffalows. (2) passed 2 Small
Willow Islands with large Sand bars makeing from their upper points (3)
passed Elk Island Situated near the L. S. about 21/2 mes. long & 3/4
wide, Covered with Cotton wood, a red berry Called by the French "grise de
buff," Grapes &c. the river is wide Streight & contains a great
numr of Sand bars, (4) passed a Small Creek on the S. S. 16 yds wide I
call Reubens Cr. — R. Fields was the first who found it — Came too
& Camped on the S. S. in a Wood. Soon after we landed three Soues boys
Swam across to us, those boys informed us that a Band of Sieux called the
Tetons of 80 Lodges wer Camped near the mouth of the next River, and 60
Lodges more a Short distance above them, they had that day Set the praries
on fire to let those Camps Know of our approach — we gave those boys
two twists of Tobacco to carry to their Chiefs & Warriors to Smoke,
with derections to tell them that we wished to Speak to them tomorrow, at
the mouth of the next river — Capt Lewis walked on Shore, R F. Killed
a She Goat or "Cabbra."
[Clark, September 23, 1804]
23rd of September Sunday 1804 Set out under a gentle breeze from the S. E,
(1) passed a Small Island Situated in a bend to the L. S. Called Goat
Island, a Short distance above the upper point a Creek of 12 yards wide
corns in on the S. S. we observed a great Smoke to the S W. — I walked
on Shore & observed Buffalow in great Herds at a Distance (2) passed
two Small willow Islands with large Sand bars makeing out from them,
passed (3) Elk Island about 21/2 miles long & 3/4 mile wide Situated
near the L. S. covered with Cotton wood the read Current Called by the
French Gres de Butiff & grapes &c. &c. the river is nearly
Streight for a great distance wide and Shoal. (4) passed a Creek on the S.
S. 16 yards wide we Call Reubens Creek, as R Fields found it Camped on the
S. S. below the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. three Souex boys Came to us
Swam the river and informd that the Band of Soauex called the Teton of 80
Lodges were Camped at the next Creek above, & 60 Lodges more a Short
distance above, we gave those boys two Carrots of Tobacco to Carry to
their Chiefs, with derections to tell them that we would Speek to them
tomorrow Capt Lewis walked on Shore this evening, R. F Killed a Doe Goat,-
[Clark, September 24, 1804]
Monday the 24th of September 1804 a fair morning Set out early, wind from
the East, passed the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. Called Creek in high
water. passed a large (1) Island on the L. S. about 21/2 Miles long on
which Colter had Camped & Killed 4 Elk. the wind from the S. E. — we
prepared Some Clothes a few medal for the Chiefs of the Teton band of
Sioux we expected to meet at the next River — much Stone on the S. S.
of the River, we Saw one hare to day — our Perogues Called at the
Island for the Elk, Soon after we passed the Island Colter ran up the bank
& reported that the Sioux had taken his horse, we Soon after Saw five
indians on the bank; who expressed a wish to come on board, we informed
them we were friends, and wished to Continue So, we were not abraid any
Indians — Some of their young Men had Stolen a horse Sent by their
Great Father to their great Chief, and we Should not Speak to them any
more untill the horse was returned to us again — passed a Island about
11/2 m. long on which we Saw maney elk & Buffalow, we Came too off the
Mouth of a Small river, The Teton of the burnt woods is Camped 2 Miles up
this river, this river we Call Teton is 70 Yds wide and corns in on the S
W Side-I went on Shore and Smoked with a Chief, Called Buffalow Medison,
who Came to See us here. The Chief Said he Knew nothing of the horse &c
&. I informed them we would call the grand Chiefs in Council tomorrow,
all continued on board all night
[Clark, September 24, 1804]
24th September Monday 1804 Set out early a fair day the wind from the E,
pass the mouth of Creek on the L. S. called on high water; passed (i ) a
large Island on the L. S. about 2 miles & 1/2 long on which Colter had
Camped & Killed 4 Elk, the wind fair from the S. E. we prepared Some
Clothes and a fiew meadels for the Chiefs of the Teton's hand of Seaux
which we expect to See to day at the next river, observe a Great Deel of
Stone on the Sides of the hills on the S. S. we Saw one Hare to day,
prepared all things for action in Case of necessity, our Perogus went to
the Island for the meet, Soon after the man on Shore run up the bank and
reported that the Indians had Stolen the horse we Soon after met 5 Inds.
and ankered out Some distance & Spoke to them informed them we were
friends, & wished to Continue So but were not afraid of any Indians,
Some of their young men had taken the horse Sent by their Great father for
ther Chief and we would not Speek to them untill the horse was returned to
us again.
passed (2) a Island on the S. S. on which we Saw Several Elk, about 11/2
miles long Called Good humered Islds. Came to about 11/2 miles above off
the mouth of a Small river about 70 yards wide Called by Mr. Evins the
Little Mississou River, The Tribes of the Scouix Called the Teton, is
Camped about 2 miles up on the N W Side and we Shall Call the River after
that nation, Teton This river is 70 yards wide at the mouth of water, and
has a considerable Current we anchored off the mouth the french Perogue
Come up early in the morning, the other did not get up untill in the
evening Soon after we had Came too. I went & Smoked with the Chief who
Came to See us here all well, we prepare to Speek with the Indians
tomorrow at which time we are informed the Indians will be here, The
French man who had for Some time been Sick, began to blead which allarmed
him — 2/3 of our party Camped on board The remainder with the Guard on
Shore.
[Clark, September 25, 1804]
25th of September 1804 off Teton River a fair Morning the wind from the S.
E. raised a Flagg Staff and formed an orning & Shade on a Sand bar in
the Mouth of Teton R to Council under, the greater portion of the party to
Continue on boardabout 11 oClock the 1st & 2d Chief arrived, we gave
them to eat; they gave us Some meat, (we discover our interpeter do not
Speak the language well) at 12 oClock the Councill Commenced & after
Smokeing agreeable to the usial custom C. L. Delivered a written Speech to
them, I Some explinations &c. all party Paraded, gave a Medal to the
grand Chief in Indian Un-ton gar-Sar bar, or Black Buffalow — 2d
Torto-hongar, Partezon (Bad fellow) the 3d Tar-ton-gar-wa-ker, Buffalow
medison — we invited those Chiefs & a Soldier on board our boat,
and Showed them many Curiossites, which they were much Surprised, we gave
they 1/2 a wine glass of whiskey which they appeared to be exceedingly
fond of they took up an empty bottle, Smelted it, and made maney Simple
jestures and Soon began to be troublesom the 2d Chief effecting Drunkness
as a Cloak for his vilenous intintious (as I found after wards,) realed or
fell about the boat, I went in a perogue with those Chief who left the
boast with great reluctians, my object was to reconsile them and leave
them on Shore, as Soon as I landed 3 of their young ment Seased the Cable
of the Perogue, one Soldiar Huged the mast and the 2d Chief was
exceedingly insolent both in words and justures to me declareing I Should
no go off, Saying he had not recived presents Suffient from us- I
attempted to passify but it had a contrary effect for his insults became
So personal and his intentions evident to do me injurey, I Drew my Sword
at this motion Capt Louis ordered all in the boat under arms, the fiew men
that was with me haveing previously taken up their guns with a full
deturmination to defend me if possible — The grand Chief then took
hold of the Cable & Sent all the young men off, the Soldier got out of
the perogue and the 2nd Chief walked off to the Party at about 20 yards
back, all of which had their bows Strung & guns Cocked- I then Spoke
in verry positive terms to them all, principaly addressing myself to the
1st Chief, who let the roape go and walked to the Indian, party about, 100
I again offered my hand to the 1st Chief who refused it — (all this
time the Indians were pointing their arrows blank-) I proceeded to the
perogue and pushed off and had not proceeded far before the 1st & 3r
Chief & 2 principal men walked into the water and requested to go on
board, I took them in and we proceeded on abot a Mile, and anchored near a
Small Island, I call this Island Bad humered Island
[Clark, September 25, 1804]
25th Septr a fair morning the wind from the S. E. all well, raised a Flag
Staff & made a orning or Shade on a Sand bar in the mouth of Teton
River for the purpose of Speeking with the Indians under, the Boat Crew on
board at 70 yards Distance from the bar The 5 Indians which we met last
night Continued, about 11 oClock the 1 s & 2d Chief Came we gave them
Some of our Provsions to eat, they gave us great quantites of meet Some of
which was Spoiled we feel much at a loss for the want of an interpeter the
one we have can Speek but little.
Met in council at 12 oClock and after Smokeing, agreeable to the usial
Custom, Cap Lewis proceeded to Deliver a Speech which we oblige to Curtail
for want of a good interpeter all our Party paraded. gave a medal to the
Grand Chief Calld. in Indian Un ton gar Sar bar in French Beefe nure Black
Buffalow Said to be a good man, 2 Chief Torto hon gar- or the Partisan-or
Partizan-bad the 3rd is the Beffe De Medison his name is Tar ton gar wa
ker
1. Contesabe man War zing go
2. do Second Bear = Ma to co que pan
Envited those Cheifs on board to Show them our boat and Such Curiossities
as was Strange to them, we gave them 1/4 a glass of whiskey which they
appeared to be verry fond of, Sucked the bottle after it was out &
Soon began to be troublesom, one the 2d Cheif assumeing Drunkness, as a
Cloake for his rascally intentions I went with those Cheifs (which left
the boat with great reluctiance) to Shore with a view of reconseleing
those men to us, as Soon as I landed the Perogue three of their young men
Seased the Cable of the Perogue, the Chiefs Soldr. Huged the mast, and the
2d Chief was verry insolent both in words & justures declareing I
Should not go on, Stateing he had not recved presents Suffient from us,
his justures were of Such a personal nature I felt my Self Compeled to
Draw my Sword, at this motion Capt. Lewis ordered all under arms in the
boat, those with me also Showed a Disposition to Defend themselves and me,
the grand Chief then took hold of the roop & ordered the young warrers
away, I felt my Self warm & Spoke in verry positive terms Most of the
warriers appeared to have ther Bows Strung and took out their arrows from
they quves. as I was not permited to return, I Sent all the men except 2
Inpt. to the boat, the perogu Soon returned with about 12 of our detumind
men ready for any event this movement caused a no. of the Indians to
withdraw at a distance, — Their treatment tome was verry rough & I
think justified rough ness on my part, they all left my Perogue and
Councild. with themselves the result I could not lern and nearly all went
off after remaining in this Situation Some time I offered my hand to the 1
& 2 Chief who refusd to recve it. I turned off & went with my men
on board the perogue, I had not progd. more the 10 paces before the 1st
Cheif 3rd & 2 Brave men waded in after me. I took them in & went
on board we proceeded on about 1 mile & anchored out off a willow
Island placed a guard on Shore to protect the Cooks & a guard in the
boat, fastened the Perogues to the boat, I call this Island bad humered
Island as we were in a bad humer.
[Clark, September 26, 1804]
26th of Septr Set out early and proceeded on — the river lined with
indians, came too & anchored by the particular request of the Chiefs
to let their Womin & Boys See the Boat, and Suffer them to Show us
some friendship — great members of men womin & Children on the
bank viewing us — Those people are Spritely Small legs ille looking
Set men perticularly, they grease & Black themselves when they dress,
make use of Hawks feathers about thier heads, cover with a Roab each a
polecat Skin to hold their Smokeables, fond of Dress, Badly armed. ther
women appear verry well, fine Teeth, High Cheek Dress in Skin Peticoats,
& a Roabe with the flesh Side out and harey ends turned back over
their Sholdes, and look well — they doe all the Laborious work, and I
may say are perfect Slaves to thier husbands who frequently have Several
wives- Capt Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Chiefs, who appeared
to wish to become friendly they requested us to remain one night & see
them dance &c. — in the evening I walked on Shore, and Saw Several
Mahar Womin & Boys in a lodge & was told they were Prisones
laterly taken in a battle in which they killed a number & took 48
prisoners — I advised the Chiefs to make peace with that nation and
give up the Prisoners, if they intended to follow the words of their great
father they promised that they would do So — I was in Several Lodges
neetly formed, those lodges are about 15 to 20 feet Diametr Stretched on
Poles like a Sugar Loaf, made of Buffalow Skins Dressed about 5 oClock I
was approached by 10 well Dressed young men with a neet Buffalow Roab
which they Set down before me & requested me to get in they Carried me
to ther Council Tents forming 3/4 Circle & Set me down betwn 2 Chefs
where about 70 men were Seated in a circle, in front of the Chief 6 feet
Square was cleared & the pipe of peace raised on forks & Sticks,
under which was Swans down Scattered, the Flags of Spane & the one we
gave them yesterday was Displayed a large fire was made on which a Dog was
Cooked, & in the center about 400 wt of Buffalow meat which they gave
us, — Soon after, I took my Seat the young men went to the boat &
brought Capt Lewis in the Same way & placed him by me Soon after an
old man rose & Spoke approveing what we had done. requesting us to
take pitty on them &C. answered — They form their Camp in a circle
The great Chief then rose in great State and Spoke to the Same purpos and
with Solemnity took up the pipe of peace and pointed it to the heavens,
the 4 quartrs and the earth, he made Some divistation, & presented the
Sten to us to Smoke, after Smokeing & a Short Harrang to his people we
were requested to take the meat, and the Flesh of the Dog gavin us to eat — We
Smoked untill Dark, at which time all was cleared away & a large fire
made in the Center, Several men with Tamborens highly Decorated with Der
& Cabra Hoofs to make them rattle, assembled and began to Sing &
Beat — The women Came forward highly decerated with the Scalps &
Trofies of war of their fathes Husbands & relations, and Danced the
war Dance, which they done with great chearfulness untill 12 oClock, when
we informed the Chief we intended return on bord, (they offered us women,
which we did not except) 4 Chiefs accompanied us to the boat and Staid all
night — Those people have a Description of Men which they Call
Soldiars, those men attend to the police of the Band, Correct all vices
&. I Saw one to day whip 2 Squars who appeared to have fallen out,
when the Soldier approached all appeared give way and flee at night they
Keep 4 or 5 men at different distances walking around their Camp Singing
the acursenes of the night all in Spirits this evening wind hard from the
S E
I saw 25 Squars & Boys taken 13 days ago in a battle with the Mahars,
in which they destroyed 40 Lodges, Killed 75 men & boys, & took 48
prisones which they promised us Should be delivered to Mr. Durion now with
the Yankton _____, we gave our Mahar interpeter a few alls & &. to
give those retched Prisonis, I saw Homney of ground Potatos a Spoon of the
Big Horn animals which will hold 2 quarts.
[Clark, September 26, 1804]
26th Septr. 1804 bad hd Isd. 26th of September Wednesday 1804 Set out
early proceeded on and Came to by the wish of the Chiefs for to let their
Squars & boys See the Boat and Suffer them to treat us well great
number of men women & Children on the banks viewing us, these people
Shew great anxiety, they appear Spritely, generally ill looking & not
well made thier legs & arms Small Generally — they Grese &
Black themselves with coal when they dress, make use of a hawks feather
about their heads the men a robe & each a polecats Skins, for to hold
ther Bais roly for Smokeing fond of Dress & Show badly armed with
fuseis &. The Squaws are Chearfull fine lookg womin not handson, High
Cheeks Dressed in Skins a Peticoat and roab which foldes back over thir
Sholder, with long wool. doe all ther laborious work & I may Say
perfect Slaves to the men, as all Squars of nations much at war, or where
the womin are more noumerous than the men — after Comeing too Capt.
Lewis & 5 men went on Shore with the Chiefs, who appeared desposed to
make up & be friendly, after Captain Lewis had been on Shore about 3
hours I became uneasy for fear of Some Deception & sent a Serjeant to
See him and know his treatment which he reported was friendly, & thy
were prepareing for a Dance this evening
The made frequent Selecitiation for us to remain one night only and let
them Show their good disposition towards us, we deturmined to remain,
after the return of Capt. Lewis, I went on Shore I saw Several Maha
Prisoners and Spoke to the Chiefs it was necessary to give those prisoners
up & become good friends with the Mahars if they wished to follow the
advice of their Great father I was in Several Lodges neetly formed as
before mentioned as to the Bauruly Tribe — I was met by about 10 well
Dressd. yound men who took me up in a roabe Highly a decrated and Set me
Down by the Side of their Chief on a Dressed robe in a large Council House
this house formed a 3/4 Cercle of Skins well Dressed and Sown together
under this Shelter about 70 men Set forming a Circle in front of the
Chiefs a plac of 6 feet Diameter was Clear and the pipe of peace raised on
Sticks under which there was Swans down Scattered, on each Side of the
Circle two Pipes, The flags of Spain 2 & the Flag we gave them in
front of the Grand Chief a large fire was near in which provisions were
Cooking, in the Center about 400 wt. of excellent Buffalo Beif as a
present for us
Soon after they set me Down, the men went for Capt Lewis brough him in the
same way and placed him also by the Chief in a fiew minits an old man rose
& Spoke approveing what we had done & informing us of their
Situation requesting us to take pity on them &c which was answered The
Great Chief then rose with great State to the Same purpote as far as we
Could learn & then with Great Solemnity took up the pipe of peace whin
the principal Chiefs Spoke with the pipe of Peace he took in one hand Some
of the most Delicate parts of the Dog which was prepared for the feist
& made a Sacrifise to the flag — & after pointing it to the
heavins the 4 quarter of the Globe & the earth,, lit it and prosist
presented the Stem to us to Smoke, after a Smoke had taken place, & a
Short Harange to his people, we were requested to take the meal put before
us the dog which they had been cooking, & Pemitigon & ground
potatoe in Several platters. Pemn is buffo meat dried or baked pounded
& mixed with grease raw Dog Sioux think great dishused on festivals.
eat little of dog pemn & pote good we Smoked for an hour Dark &
all was Cleared away a large fire made in the Center, about 10 misitions
playing on tamberins. long sticks with Deer & Goats Hoofs tied So as
to make a gingling noise and many others of a Similer kind, those men
began to Sing, & Beet on the Tamboren, the women Came foward highly
Deckerated in theire way, with the Scalps and Trofies of war of ther
father Husbands Brothers or near Connection & proceeded to Dance the
war Dance which they done with Great Chearfullness untill 12 oClock when
we informed the Cheifs that they were fatigued &c. they then retired
& we Accompd. by 4 Chiefs returned to our boat, they Stayed with us
all night. Those people have Some brave men which they make use of as
Soldiers those men attend to the police of the Village Correct all errors
I saw one of them to day whip 2 Squars who appeared to have fallen out,
when he approachd all about appeared to flee with great turrow at night
thy keep two 3 4 or 5 men at deffinit Distances walking around Camp
Singing the accurrunces of the night all the men on board 100 paces from
Shore wind from the S. E. moderate one man verry sick on board with a
Dangerass abscess on his Hip. all in Spirits this eveninge
In this Tribe I saw 25 Squars and boys taken 13 days ago in a battle with
the mahars in this battle they Destroyd 40 lodges, killed 75 men, &
Som boys & children, & took 48 Prisones Womin & boys which
they promis both Capt. Lewis and my Self Shall be Delivered up to Mr.
Durion at the Tribe, those are a retched and Dejected looking people the
Squars appear low & Corse but this is an unfavourabl time to judge of
them we gave our Mahar inteptr. Some fiew articles to give those Squats in
his name Such as alls needle &. &c.
I Saw & eat Pemitigon the Dog, Groud potatoe made into a Kind of
homney, which I thought but little inferior — I also Saw a Spoon made
of a horn of an animile of the Sheep kind the spoon will hold 2 quarts.
[Clark, September 27, 1804]
27th of Septr. 1804 — The Bank as usial lined with Sioux, gave the 2
principal Chiefs a blanket & a peck of Corn each, Capt Lewis
accompanied the Chiefs to their Lodges, they informed us that a great part
of their nation had not arrived, & would arrive to night and requested
us to Delay one Day longer, that they might See us
I rote a letter to Mr. Durion, & prepared Some Commissions & a
meadel & Sent to Captain Lewis — at 2 oClock Capt Lewis retuned
with 4 chiefs & a Brave man named War-cha pa — after a delay of
half an hour I went with them on Shore, they left the boat with
reluctiance (we Suspect they are treacherous and are at all times guarded
& on our guard) They again offered me a young woman and wish me to
take her & not Dispise them, I wavered the Subject, at Dark the Dance
began as usial and performed as last night. womin with ther Husbands &
relations cloths arms Scalps on poles &c. &c. Capt Lewis joined me
& we continued until about 11 oClock and 2 Chief accompaned us to the
boat I with 2 Cheifs was in a Perogue going on board, by bad Stearing the
parogu Struk the Cable with Such force as to brake it near the anchor (Cap
Lewis) and 3 or 4 men on Shore, I had all hands up and was Compelled to
Land — the Chief got allarmed & allarmed the Indians the 1s Chief
& about 200 men Came down in great hast armd and for action, and found
it was false, about 20 of them Camped on Shore all night — this allarm
Cap Lewis & well as my Self viewed as the Signal of their intentions,
one half on guard, our misfortune of loseing our anchor obliged us to lay
under a falling in bank much exposed to the Accomplishment of the hostile
intentions of those Tetons (who we had every reason to believe from ther
Conduct intended to make an attempt to Stop our progress & if possible
rob us-) Peter Crusat who Spoke Mahar came in the night and informed me
that the mahar Prisoners told him that the Tetons intended to Stop us — We
Shew'd but little Sign of a knowledge of there intentions.
[Clark, September 27, 1804]
27th of Septr. Thursday 1804 I rose early aftr a bad nights Sleep found
the Chief all up, and the bank as usial lined with Spectators we gave the
2 great Cheifs a Blanket a peace, or rethr they took off agreeable to
their Custom the one they lay on and each one Peck of Corn after Brackfast
Capt. Lewis & the Chiefs went on Shore, as a verry large part of their
nation was Comeing in, the Disposition of whome I did not know one of us
being Suffcent on Shore, I wrote a letter to Mr. P. Durion & prepared
a meadel & Some Comsns. & Sent to Cap Lewis at 2 oClock Capt.
Lewis returned with 4 Chiefs & a Brave man named War cha pa or on his
Guard. when the friends of those people die they run arrows through their
flesh above and below their elbous as a testimony of their Greaf after
Staying about half an hour, I went with them on Shore, Those men left the
boat with reluctience, I went first to the 2d Chiefs Lodge, where a Croud
Came around after Speeking on various Subjects I went to a princpal mans
lodge from there to the grand Chiefs lodge, after a fiew minits he invited
me to a Lodge within the Circle in which I Stayed with all their principal
men untill the Dance began, which was Similer to the one of last night
performed by their womn which poles on which Scalps of their enemies were
hung, Some with the Guns Spears & war empliments their husbands in
their hands
Capt. Lewis came on Shore and we Continued untill we were Sleepy &
returned to our boat, the 2nd Chief & one principal man accompanid us,
those two Indians accompanied me on board in the Small Perogue, Capt.
Lewis with a guard Still on Shore, the man who Steered not being much
acustomed to Steer, passed the bow of the boat & peroge Came broad
Side against the Cable & broke it which obliged me to order in a loud
voice all hands all hands up & at their ores, my preempty order to the
men and the bustle of their getting to their ores allarmd the Cheifs,
togethr with the appearance of the men on Shore, as the boat turnd. The
Cheif hollowered & allarmed the Camp or Town informing them that the
Mahars was about attacting us. in about 10 minits the bank was lined with
men armed the 1st Cheif at their head, about 200 men appeared and after
about 1/2 hour returned all but about 60 men who Continued on the bank all
night, the Cheifs Contd. all night with us — This allarm I as well as
Captn. Lewis Considered as the Signal of their intentions (which was to
Stop our proceeding on our journey and if Possible rob us) we were on our
Guard all night, the misfortune of the loss of our Anchor obliged us to
Lay under a falling bank much exposd. to the accomplishment of their
hostile intentions P. C — our Bowman who Cd. Speek Mahar informed us
in the night that the Maha Prisoners informed him we were to be Stoped — we
Shew as little Sighns of a Knowledge of their intentions as possible all
prepared on board for any thing which might hapen, we kept a Strong guard
all night in the boat no Sleep
[Clark, September 28, 1804]
28th of Septr 1804 Friday I made maney attempts in defferent ways to find
our anchor without Sukcess, the Sand had Covered her up, we Deturmined to
proceed on to Day — and after Brackfast we with great Dificuelty got
the Chiefs out of the boat, and when we were about Setting out the Class
Called the Soldiars took possession of the Cable- the 1st Cheif was Still
on board and intended to go a Short distance up with us, was informed that
the men Set on the Cable, he went out and told Capt Lewis who was at the
Bow, they wanted tobacco The 2d Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco which
we refused to give, Stateing proper reasons to them for it, after much
rangleing, we gave a Carrot of Tobacco to the 1st Cheif and he to the men
&lurked the Cable from them & proceeded on under a Breeze from the
S E. we took in the 3rd Cheif who was Sitting on a Sand bar 2 miles above — he
told us the Rope was held by order of the 2d Chief who was a Double Spoken
man — Soon after we Saw a man rideing full Speed up the bank, we
brought him on board, & he proved to be the Sun of the 3d Cheif, by
him we Sent a talk to the nation, explanitory of our hoisting the red flag
under the white, if they were for Peace Stay at home and doe as we had
Derected them and if they were for war or deturmined to attempt to Stop
us, we were ready to defend our Selves (as I had before Said) — we
Substituted large Stones in place of an Anchor, we came to at a Small Sand
bar in the middle of the river and Stayed all night-I am verry unwell I
think for the want of Sleep
[Clark, September 28, 1804]
28th of September 1804 Friday Made many attemps in different ways to find
our Anchor but could not, the Sand had Covered it, from the misfortune of
last night our boat was laying at Shore in a verry unfavourable Situation,
after finding that the anchor Could not be found we deturmined to proceed
on, with great difficuelty got the Chiefs out of our boat, and when we was
about Setting out the Class Called the Soldiers took possession of the
Cable the 1 s Chief which was Still on board & intended to go a Short
distance up with us, I told him the men of his nation Set on the Cable, he
went out & told Capt Lewis who was at the bow the men who Set on the
Roap was Soldiers and wanted Tobacco Capt. L. Said would not agree to be
forced into any thing, the 2d Chief Demanded a flag & Tobacco which we
refusd. to Give Stateing proper reasons to them for it after much
difucelty-which had nearly reduced us to hostility I threw a Carot of
Tobacco to 1 s Chief Spoke So as to touch his pride took the port fire
from the gunner the Chief gives the Tobaco to his Soldiers & he jurked
the rope from them and handed it to the bows man we then Set out under a
Breeze from the S. E. about 2 miles up we observed the 3rd Chief on Shore
beckining to us we took him on board he informed us the roap was held by
the order of the 2d Chief who was a Double Spoken man, Soon after we Saw a
man Comeing full Speed, thro the plains left his horse & proceeded
across a Sand bar near the Shore we took him on board & observed that
he was the Son of the Chief we had on board we Sent by him a talk to the
nation Stateent the Cause of our hoisting the red flag undr. the white, if
they were for peace Stay at home & do as we had Derected them, if the
were for war ore were Deturmined to Stop us we were ready to defend our
Selves, we halted one houre & 1/2 on the S. S. & made a Substitute
of Stones for a ancher, refreshed our men and proceeded on about 2 miles
higher up & came too a verry Small Sand bar in the middle of the river
& Stayed all night, I am Verry unwelle for want of Sleep Deturmined to
Sleep to night if possible, the men Cooked & we rested well.
[Clark, September 29, 1804]
Capt. W. Clarks Notes Continued as first taken- 29th of September
Satturday 1804 — Set out early Some bad Sand bars, at 9 oClock we
observed the 2d Chief with 2 men and Squars on Shore, they wished to go up
with us as far as the other part of their band, which would meet us on the
river above not far Distant we refused to let one more Come on board
Stateing Suffient reasons, observd they would walk on Shore to the place
we intended to Camp, offered us women we objected and told them we Should
not Speake to another teton except the one on board with us, who might go
on Shore when ever he pleased, those Indians proceeded on untill later in
the evening when the Chief requested that the Perogue might put him across
the river which we agreed to — Saw numbers of Elk on the Sand bars
today, passed an old Ricara Village at the mouth of a Creek without timber
we Stayed all night on the Side of a sand bar 1/2 a Mile from the Shore.
[Clark, September 29, 1804]
29th of Septr. Satturday 1804 Set out early Some bad Sand bars, proceeded
on at 9 oClock we observed the 2d Chief & 2 principal men one man
& a Squar on Shore, they wished to go up with us as far as the other
part of their band, which they Said was on the river a head not far
Distant we refused Stateing verry Sufhcint reasons and was plain with them
on the Subject, they were not pleased observed that they would walk on
Shore to the place we intended to Camp to night, we observed it was not
our wish that they Should for if they did we Could not take them or any
other Tetons on board except the one we had now with us who might go on
Shore when ever he pleased- they proceeded on, the Chief on board askd.
for a twist of Tobacco for those men we gave him 1/2 a twist, and Sent one
by them for that part of their band which we did not See, & Continued
on Saw great numbers of Elk at the mouth of a Small Creek Called No timber
(-as no timber appeared to be on it.) above the mouth of this Creek the
Parties had a Village 5 years ago, — The 2d Chief Came on the Sand bar
& requested we would put him across the river, I Sent a Perogue &
Crossed him & one man to the S. S. and proceeded on & Came too on
a Sand bar on about 1/2 mile from the main Shore & put on it 2
Sentinals Continud all night at anchor (we Substitute large Stones for
anchors in place of the one we lost) all in high Spirits &c
[Clark, September 30, 1804]
30th of September Sunday 1804 had not proceeded far before we discovered
an Indian running after us, he requstd to go with us to the Ricaras, we
refused to take him, I discovered at a great Distanc a great number of men
women & Children decending a hill towards the river above which the
Chief with us told us was the other Band, Some rain & hard wind at
about 10 oClock we anchored opposit the Camps of this band and told them
we took them by the hand, and Sent to each Chief a Carrot of Tobacco &
Some to the principal men and farther Said that after Staying with the
band below 2 days to See them we had been badly treated and Should not
land again, as we had not time to Delay — refured then to Mr. Durion
for a full account of us, and an explination of what had been Said, they
appeard ansioes for us to eat with them and observed they were friendly we
apoligised & proceeded on under a Double reafed Sale — the Chief
on board threw out to those that ran up Small pieces of Tobacco & told
them to go back and open thier ears, We Saw great number of white guls — refresh
the party with whiskey, in the evening we Saw 2 Indians at a Distance, The
boat turned by accident & was nearly filling and rocked verry much,
allarmed the Indian Chief on board who ran and hid himself, we landed
& the Indian express a wish to return, we gave him a Blanket Knife
& Some tobacco and advised him to keep his men away, we camped on a
Sand bar. verry Cold & windy-
[Clark, September 30, 1804]
30th of Septr. Sunday 1804. Set out this morning early had not proceeded
on far before we discovered an Indn. running after us, he came up with us
at 7 oClock & requested to come on bord and go up to the recorees we
refused to take any of that band on board if he chose to proceed on Shore
it was verry well Soon after I discovered on the hills at a great distance
great numbers of Indians which appeared to be makeing to the river above
us, we proceeded on under a Double reafed Sail, & Some rain at 9
oClock observed a large band of Indians the Same which I had before Seen
on the hills incamping on the bank the L. S. we Came too on a Sand bar
Brackfast & proceeded on & cast the ancher opposit their Lodgs. at
about 100 yards distand, and informed the Indians which we found to be a
part of the Band we had before Seen, that took them by the hand and Sent
to each Chief a Carrot of tobacco, as we had been treated badly by Some of
the band below, after Staying 2 days for them, we Could not delay any
time, & refured them to Mr. Duron for a full account of us and to here
our talk Sent by him to the Tetons, those were verry Selecitious for us to
land and eate with them, that they were friendly &c. &. we
appoligised & proceeded on, Sent the peroge to Shore above with the
Tobacco & Delivd. it to a Soldr. of the Chief with us Several of them
ran up the river, the Chf. on board threw then out a Small twist of
Tobacco & told them to go back & open ther ears. they recved the
Tobacco & returned to their lodges — we Saw great numbers of white
guls this day is cloudy & rainey — refresh the men with a glass of
whisky after Brackfast.
we Saw about 6 miles above 2 Indians who came to the bank and looked at us
a about 1/2 an hour & went over the hills to the S W. we proceeded on
under a verry Stiff Breeze from the S., the Stern of the boat got fast on
a log and the boat turned & was verry near filling before we got her
righted, the waves being verry high, The Chief on board was So fritined at
the motion of the boat which in its rocking caused Several loose articles
to fall on the Deck from the lockers, he ran off and hid himself, we
landed he got his gun and informed us he wished to return, that all things
were Cleare for us to go on we would not See any more Tetons &c. we
repeated to him what had been Said before and advised him to keep his men
away, gave him a blanket a Knife & Some Tobacco, Smokd a pipe & he
Set out. we also Set Sale and Came to at a Sand bar, & Camped, a
verrey Cold evening, all on our guard
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 The wind blew hard from the S. E. all last
night, Set out early passed a large Island in the middle of the river
opposit this Island the Ricaras lived in 2 Villages on the S W. Side,
about 2 Miles above the upper point of the Island the Chyenne River Coms
in on the L. S. and is about 400 yards wide dischargeing but little water
for a R. of its Size, the Current jentle, and navagable, to the Black
mountains we haule the Boat over a Sand bar, River wide & Shoal,
pass'd a Creek at 5 mils we Call Sentinal Creek, a Small one above, but
little timber about this river, the hills not So high as usial, the upper
Creek I call lookout Creek, Camped on a Sand bar, opposit a Tradeing
house, where a Mr. Valles & 2 men had Some fiew goods to trade with
the Sioux, a boy came to us, This Mr. Vallie informed us he wintered last
winter 300 Legus up the Chyemne River under the Black mountains, he Sais
the River is rapid and bad to navagate, it forks 100 Leagus up the N. fork
enters the Black mountain 40 Leagues above the forks the Countrey like
that on the Missouri less timber more Cedar, the Coat Nur or Black m. is
high and Some parts retain Snow all Summer, Covered with timber
principally pine, Great number of goats and a kind of anamal with verry
large horns about the Size of a Small Elk, White Bear no bever on the
chien great numbers in the mountains, The Chyenne Nation has about 300
Lodges hunt the Buffalow, Steel horses from the Spanish Settlements, which
they doe in 1 month — the Chanal of this River is Corse gravel, Those
mountains is inhabited also by the white booted Turkeys worthy of remark
that the Grouse or Prarie hen is Booted, the Toes of their feet So
constructed as to walk on the Snow, and the Tail Short with 2 long Stiff
feathers in the middle.
Sand bars are So noumerous, that it is impossible to discribe them, &
think it unnecessary to mention them.
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 The wind blew hard all last night from the S.
E. verry Cold Set out early the wind Still hard passed a large Island in
the middle of the river (1) opsd. the lower point of this Island the
Ricrerees formerly lived in a large Town on the L. S. above the head of
the Island about 2 miles we passed the (2) River) L. S. this river Comes
in from the S W. and is about 400 yards wide, the Current appears gentle,
throwing out but little Sands, and appears to throw out but little water
the heads of this River is Indians live Some distance up this river, the
presise distance I cant learn, above the mouth of this river the Sand bars
are thick and the water Shoal the river Still verry wide and falling a
little we are obliged to haul the boat over a Sand bar, after makeing
Several attempts to pass. the wind So hard we Came too & Stayed 3
hours after it Slackened a little we proceeded on round a bend, the wind
in the after part of the Day a head — (2) passed a Creek on the L. S.
which we Call the Sentinal, this part of the river has but little timber,
the hills not so high. the Sand bars now noumerous, & river more than
one mile wide including the Sand bars. (2) pass a Small Creek above the
latter which we Call lookout C-. Continued on with the wind imediately a
head, and Came too on a large Sand bar in the middle of the river, we Saw
a man opposit to our Camp on the L. S. which we discovd. to be a
Frenchman, a little of the willows we observed a house, we Call to them to
come over, a boy Came in a Canoo & informed that 2 french men were at
the house with good to trade with the Seauex which he expected down from
the rickerries everry day, Severl large parties of Seauex Set out from the
rics for this place to trade with those men — This Mr. Jon Vallie
informs us that he wintered last winter 300 Leagues up the Chien River
under the Black mountains, he informs that this river is verry rapid and
dificiult even for Canoos to assend and when riseing the Swels is verry
high, one hundred Leagues up it forks one fork Comes from the S. the other
at 40 Leagues above the forks enters the black Mountain. The Countrey from
the Missourie to the black mountain is much like the Countrey on the
Missourie, less timber & a greatr perpotion of Ceder. The black
Mountains he Says is verry high, and Some parts of it has Snow on it in
the Summer great quantities of Pine Grow on the mountains, a great noise
is heard frequently on those mountains-, on the mountains great numbers of
goat, and a kind of Anamale with large Circuler horns, This animale is
nearly the Size of an Argalia Small Elk. White bear is also plenty — The
Chien Inds. inhabit this river principally, and Steel horses from the
Spanish Settlements This excurtion they make in one month the bottoms
& Sides of R Chien is Corse gravel. This frenchman gives an account of
a white booted turkey an inhabitant of the Cout Noie-
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
1st of October Monday 1804 at the Mouth of River Chien or Dog R We
proceeded now from the mouth of this river 11 miles and Camped on a Sand
bar in the river opposit to a Tradeing house verry windy & Cold- 11
miles above the Chien R
[Clark, October 1, 1804]
The red Berry is Called by the Rees Nar-nis-
The Ricares
Names of the nations who come to the Ricares to trafick and bring Horses
& robes
| 1. | Kun-na-nar-wesh Gens de vash | Blue beeds |
| 2. | Noo-tar-wau | Hill Climbers |
| 3. | Au ner-hoo | the people who pen Buffalow to Catch them |
| 4. | To-che-wah-Coo | Fox Indians |
| 5. | To-pah-cass | White hair's |
| 6. | Cat-tar kah | Paducar |
| 7. | Kie-wah | Tideing Indians |
| 8. | Too war Sar | Skin pricks |
| 9. | Shar ha (Chien) | the village on the other Side |
| 10. | We hee Shaw (Chien) | The villages on this Side |
Those nation all live on the praries from S W. by S. to West of the
Ricaries, all Speek different languages and are numerous all follow the
Buffalow and winter in the mountains. The Mandans Call a red berry common
to the upper part of the Missouri As-say the engages call the Same berry
grease de Buff — grows in great abundance a makes a Delightfull Tart
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of October Tuesday 1804, Mr. Vallie Came on board, Lat. 44° 19' 36 N.
we observed Some Indians on a hill on the S. S. one Came to the river
& fired off his gun and asked us to come he wish us to go to his Camp
near at hand we refused, passed a large Island on the S. S., here we
expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us, and prepared for action,
&c. opposit this Island on the L. S. a Small Creek comes in, we call
this Caution Island, Camped on a Sand bar 1/2 mile from the main Shore the
wind hard from the N W. Cold, the current of the river less rapid, &
retains less Sediment than below.
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of Octr. 2nd of October Tuesday 1804 a Violent wind all night from the
S. E. Slackened a little and we proceeded on. Mr. Jon Vallee Came on board
and proceeded on 2 miles with us, a verry Cold morning Some black clouds
flying took a meridian altitude & made the Lattitude 44° 19' 36" North
this was taken at the upper part of the gouge of the Lookout bend, the
Sentinal heard a Shot over the hills to the L. S. dureing the time we were
Dineing on a large Sand bar. the after part of this day is pleasent, at 2
oClock opposit a wood on the L. S. we observed some Indians on a hill on
the S. S. one Came down to the river opposit to us and fired off his gun,
& beckind. to us to Come too, we payed no attention to him he followed
on Some distance, we Spoke a few words to him, he wished us to go a Shore
and to his Camp which was over the hill and Consisted of 20 Lodges, we
excused our Selves advised him to go and here our talk of Mr. Durion he
enquired for traders we informed him one was in the next bend below &
parted, he returned — & we proceeded on (1) passed a large Island,
the S. S. here we expected the Tetons would attempt to Stop us and under
that Hear we prepared our Selves for action which we expected every
moment. opsd. this Island on the L. S. a Small Creek Comes in, This Island
we call Isd. of Caution we took in Some wood on a favourable Situation
where we Could defend our men on Shore & (2) Camped on a Sand bar 1/2
a mile from the main Shore. the wind changed to the N. W. & rose verry
high and Cold which Continud. The Current of the Missourie is less rapid
& contains much less Sediment of the Same Colour.
[Clark, October 2, 1804]
2nd of October Tuesday 1804 Proceeded on as mentioned in journal No. 2
twelve miles Camped above a large Island on a Sand bar, verry windy and
Cold the after part of this day, the mid day verry worm, The Lattitude as
taken to day is 44° 19' 36" — observe great Caution this day expecting
the Seaux intentions Some what hostile towards our progression, The river
not So rapid as below the Chien, its width nearly the Same 12 miles
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 The N W. wind blew verry hard all night with
Some rain, we Set out early, at 12 examoned our Stores & goods,
Several bags Cut by the mice and Corn Scattered, Some of our Cloth also
cut by them also papers &c. &c. at 1 oClock an Indian Came to the
Bank S. S, with a turkey on his back 4 other soon joined him Some rain,
Saw Brant & white guts flying Southerly
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 wind blew hard all night from the N W. Some
rain and verry Cold. we Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on
[Clark, October 3, 1804]
3rd of October Wednesday 1804 The N. W. wind blew verry hard all night
with Some rain a Cold morning, we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on at
12 oClock landed on a Bare L. S. examined the Perogus & factle of the
boat to see if the mice had done any damage, Several bags Cut by them Corn
Scattered &. Some of our Clothes also Spoiled by them, and papers
&c. &. at 1 oClock an Indian Came to the bank S. S. with a turkey
on his back, four others Soon joined him, we attempted Several Chanels and
Could not find water to assend, landed on a Sand bar & Concluded to
Stay all night, & Send out and hunt a Chanell, Some rain this after
noon — Saw Brant & white gulls flying Southerly in large flocks-
[Clark, October 4, 1804]
4th of October Thursday — the Wind blew all night from the N W. Some
rain we were obliged to drop down 3 miles to get a Channel Sufficient Deep
to pass Several Indians on the bank, Call'd to us frequently to Land, one
gave 3 yels & Sciped a Ball before us, we payed no attention to them,
while at Brackfast one Swam across to us, beged for Powder, we gave him a
Small piece of Tobacco & put him over on a Sand bar, passed a large
Island in the middle of the river Good hope I. Passed a small Creek L. S.
passed a creek L S Camped on a Sand bar at the upper point of an Island on
which is the remains of an old ricara Village fortified Called La hoo It
was circular, this Village appears to have been deserted about 5 or 6
years, 17 houses yet remain, the Island Contains but little timber, the
evening verry Cold and wood Scerce, make use of Drift wood
[Clark, October 4, 1804]
4th of October Thursday 1804 the wind blew all night from the NW. Some
rain, we were obliged to Drop down 3 miles to get the Chanel Suft. deep to
pass up, Several Indians on the Shore viewing of us Called to us to land
one of them gave 3 yels & Sciped a ball before us, we payed no
attention to him, proceeded on and Came too on the L. S. to brackft one of
those Indians Swam across to us beged for Powder, we gave him a piece of
Tobacco & Set him over on a Sand bar, and Set out, the wind hard a
head (1) passed a Island in the middle of the river about 3 miles in
length, we call Goodhope Island, (2) at 4 miles passed a (2) Creek on the
L. S. about 12 yards wide Capt. Lewis and 3 men walked on Shore &
crossed over to an (3) Island Situated on the S. S. of the Current &
near the Center of the river this Isld. is about 11/2 miles long &
nearly 1/2 as wide, in the Center of this Island was an old Village of the
rickeries Called La ho catt it was Circular and walled Containing 17
lodges and it appears to have been deserted about five years, the Island
Contains but little timber. we Camped on the Sand bar makeing from this
Island, the day verry Cool.
[Clark, October 5, 1804]
5th of October Friday 1804 Frost this morning, Set out early passed a
Small Creek on the L. S. saw 3 Tetons on the S. S. they beged Some
Tobacco, we proceed on passed a Creek on the S. S. I Saw a white brant in
a gangue on the Sand bar Saw a large herd of Cabra or antelopes Swiming
the River, we Killed four of them passed a Small Island on the L. S. a
large Creek on the L. S. at the head of the Island White Brant Creek, I
walked on the Island which is covered with wild rye, I Killed a Buck &
a Small wolf this evening, Clear pleasant evening, Camped on a mud bar S.
S. refreshd the men with whiskey.
[Clark, October 5, 1804]
5th of October Friday 1804 Frost this morning, we Set out early and
proceeded on (1) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. at 7 oClock heard Some
yels proceeded on Saw 3 Indians of the Teton band, they called to us to
Come on Shore, beged Some Tobacco, we answd. them as usial and proceeded
on, passed (2) a Creek on the S. S. at 3 mes. abov the mouth we Saw one
white Brant in a gang of about 30, the others all as dark as usial, a
Discription of this kind of Gees or Brant Shall be given here after Saw a
Gang of Goats Swiming across the river out of which we killed four they
were not fatt. in the evening passed a Small (3) Island Situated Close to
the L. Side, at the head of this Isd. a large Creek coms in on the L. S.
Saw white or Brants, we Call this Creek white Brant Creek — I walked
on the Isd. found it Covered with wild rye, I Shot a Buck, Saw a large
gang of Goat on the hills opposit, one Buck killed, also a Prarie wolf
this evening, the high Land not So high as below, river about the Same
width, the Sand bars as noumerous, the earth Black and many of the Bluffs
have the appearance of being on fire, we Came too and Camped on a mud bar
makeing from the L. S. The evening is Calm and pleasant, refreshed the men
with a glass of whiskey-
[Clark, October 6, 1804]
6th of October Satturday 1804 Cold Wind from the N. Saw many large round
Stones near the middle of the River passed an old Ricara village of 80
Lodges Picketed in those lodges in nearly an octagon form, 20 to 60 feet
Diameter Specious Covered with earth and as Close as they Can Stand, a
number of Skin Canoes in the huts, we found Squashes of 3 different Kinds
growing in the Village Shields Killed an Elk Close by- The Magpy is common
here, we Camped off the mouth of Otter Creek on the S. S. this Creek is 22
yds. wide & heads near the R. Jacque, — contains much water.
[Clark, October 6, 1804]
6th October Satturday 1804 a cool morning wind from the North Set out
early passed a willow Island (1) Situated near the S. Shore at the upper
point of Som timber on the S. S. many large round Stones near the middle
of the river, those Stones appear to have been washed from the hills (2)
passed a village of about 80 neet Lodges covered with earth and picketed
around, those loges are Spicious of an Octagon form as close together as
they can possibly be placed and appear to have been inhabited last Spring,
from the Canoes of Skins Mats buckets & found in the lodges, we are of
appinion they were the recrereis we found Squashes of 3 Different Kinds
growing in the Village, one of our men killed an Elk Close by this
Village, I saw 2 wolves in persute of another which appeared to be wounded
and nearly tired, we proceeded on found the river Shole we made Severl.
attempts to find the main Channel between the Sand bars, and was obliged
at length to Drag the boat over to Save a league which we must return to
get into the deepest Channel, we have been obgd to hunt a Chanl. for Some
time past the river being devided in many places in a great number of
Chanels, Saw Gees, Swan, Brants, & Ducks of Different kinds on the
Sand bars to day, Capt Lewis walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Prarie
hens, I observe but fiew Gulls or Pleaver in this part of the river, The
Corvos or Magpye is verry Common in this quarter
We Camped on a large Sand bar off the mouth of Otter Creek on the S. S.
this Creek is about 22 yards wide at the mouth and contains a greater
perpotion of water than Common for Creeks of its Sise
[Clark, October 7, 1804]
7th of October Sunday 1804 frost last night, passed a River 90 yds. wide
the Ricaras Call Sur-war-kar-ne all the water of this river runs in a
chanel of 20 yards, the Current appears jentle, I walked up this River a
mile, Saw the tracks of white bear, verry large, also a old Ricara village
partly burnt, fortified about 60 Lodges built in the Same form of those
passed yesterday, many Canoes & Baskets about the huts — about 10
oClock we Saw 2 Indians on the S. S. they asked for Something to eat &
told us they were Tetons of the band we left below on ther way to the
Ricaras we gave them meat & wind hard from the South, passed a large
open Island covered with grass and wild rye, I walked on the Isd & 4
men they Killed a Braroe & a Black tale Doe with a black breast, the
largest Deer I ever saw, the great numbers of Grous on it, we call it
Grous Island, Camped opposit the Island near the S. Side.
[Clark, October 7, 1804]
7th of October Sunday 1804 a Cloudy morning, Some little rain frost last
night, we Set out early proceeded on 2 miles to the mouth of a (1) river
on the L. S. and brackfast this river whin full is 90 yards wide the water
is at this time Confined within 20 yards, the Current appears jentle, this
river throws out but little Sand at the mouth of this river we Saw the
Tracks of White bear which was verry large, I walked up this river a mile-
below the (2) mouth of this river, is the remains of a Rickorrie Village
or Wintering Camp fortified in a circular form of a bout 60 Lodges, built
in the Same form of those passed yesterday This Camp appears to have been
inhabited last winter, many of their willow & Straw mats, Baskets
& Buffalow Skin Canoes remain intire within the Camp, the Ricares Call
this river Sur-war-kar-na or Park from this river we proceeded on under a
gentle Breeze from the S. W. at 10 oClock we Saw 2 Indians, on the S. S.
they asked for Something to eate, & informed us they were part of the
Beiffs De Medisons Lodge on their way to the Rickerreis, passed (3) a
willow Island in a bind to the S. S. (4) at 5 miles passd. a willow Island
on the S. S. — wind hard from the South in the evening I walked on an
(5) Island nearly the middle of the river Called Grous Island, one of the
men killed a Shee Brarrow, another man killed a Black tail Deer, the
largest Doe I ever Saw (Black under her breast) this Island is nearly 11/4
ms. Squar no timbr high and Covered with grass wild rye and Contains Great
numbers of Grouse, we proceeded on a Short distance above the Island and
Camped on the S. S. a fine evening.
[Clark, October 8, 1804]
8th of October Monday 1804 a cool Morning wind from the N. W. passed the
mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. about 21/2 Miles above the Isd. Passed
the Mouth of a River on the L. S. called by the Ricaries We-tar-hoo. this
river is 120 yards wide, the water Confined within 20 yards, throws out
mud with little Sand, great quanties of red Berries, resembling Currents
near the mouth of this river Latd. 45° 39' 5 N. this river heads in the 1s
Black Mountain, 2 Miles higher up passed a Small River on the L. S. Called
Maropa 25 yards wide Chocked up with mud — our hunters discovered a
Ricara village on an Island a fiew miles above we passed the 1s Ricara
Village about the center of the Island, in presence of Great numbers of
Spectators and Camped above the Island on the L. S. at the foot of Some
high land. (Mr. Gravotine a French man joined us as an interpeter) The
Island on which is Ricara Village is Situated, is about 3 miles long
Seperated from the Main L. Side by a Narrow Deep Channel, those Indians
Cultivate on the Island Corn Beens Simmins, Tobacco &c &c. after
Landing Capt. Lewis with Mr. Gravelin and 3 men went to the Village, I
formd a Camp on Shore with the Perogue crew & guard, with the Boat at
Anchor, Capt Lewis returned late, a french man and a Spaniard accompanied
him
[Clark, October 8, 1804]
8th of October Monday 1804 a Cool morning Set out early the wind from the
N. W. proceeded on passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. about
21/2 miles above Grouse Island, (3) passed a willow Island which Divides
the Current equilly. (2) passed the mouth of a River called by the ricares
We tar hoo on the L. S. this river is 120 yards wide, the water of which
at this time is Confined within 20 yards, dischargeing but a Small
quantity, throwing out mud with Small propotion of Sand, great quantities
of the red Berries, ressembling Currents, are on the river in every bend — 77°
33' 0" Lattitude from the Obsevation of to day at the mouth of this river
is 45° 39' 5"-North — proceeded on passed a (3) Small river of 25
yards wide Called (4) or Beaver Dam R this river is intirely Chocked up
with mud, with a Streem of 1 Inch Diamiter passing through, discharging no
Sand, at 1 (5) mile passed the lower pint of an Island close on the L. S.
2 of our men discovered the reckerrei village, about the Center of the
Island on the L. Side on the main Shore. this Island is about 3 miles
long, Seperated from the L. S. by a Channel of about 60 yards wide verry
Deep, The Isld. is covered with fields, where those people raise their
Corn Tobacco Beens &c. &c. Great numbers of those People came on
the Island to See us pass, we passed above the head of the Island &
Capt. Lewis with 2 interpeters & 2 men went to the Village I formed a
Camp of the french & the guard on Shore, with one Sentinal on board of
the boat at anchor, a pleasent evening all things arranged both for Peace
or War, This Village (6) is Situated about the Center of a large Island
near the L. Side & near the foot of Some high bald uneaven hills,
Several french men Came up with Capt Lewis in a Perogue, one of which is a
Mr. Gravellin a man well versed in the language of this nation and gave us
Some information relitive to the Countrey naton &c
[Clark, October 8, 1804]
Orders
October the 8th 1804
Robert Frazer being regularly inlisted and haveing become on of the
Corps of Vollenteers for North Western Discovery, he is therefore to be
viewed & respected accordingly; and will be anexed to Sergeant Gass's
mess.
Win Clark Cpt &. Meriwether Lewis River Marapa Capt. 1st U.S. Regt.
Infty
[Clark, October 9, 1804]
9th of October Tuesday 1804 a windey night Some rain, and the wind
Continued So high & cold We could not Speck in Council with the
Indians, we gave them Some Tobacco and informed them we would Speek
tomorrow, all the grand Chiefs visited us to day also Mr Taboe, a trader
from St. Louis — Many Canoes of a Single Buffalow Skin made in the
form of a Bowl Carrying generally 3 and Sometimes 5 & 6 men, those
Canoes, ride the highest Waves — the Indians much asstonished at my
Black Servent and Call him the big medison, this nation never Saw a black
man before, the wind verry high, I saw at Several times to day 3 Squars in
single Buffalow Skin Canoes loaded with meat Cross the River, at the time
the waves were as high as I ever Saw them in the Missouri
[Clark, October 9, 1804]
9th of October 1804 Tuesday a windey rainey night, and Cold, So much So we
Could not Speek with the Indians to day the three great Chiefs and many
others Came to See us to day, we gave them Some tobacco and informed them
we would Speek on tomorrow, the day Continued Cold & windey Some rain
Sorry Canoos of Skins passed down from the 2 villages a Short distance
above, and many Came to view us all day, much asstonished at my black
Servent, who did not lose the oppertunity of his powers Strength &c.
&. this nation never Saw a black man before.
Several hunters Came in with loads of meat, I observed Several Canoos made
of a Single buffalow Skin with 2 & 3 Thre Squars Cross the river to
day in Waves as high as I ever Saw them on this river, quite uncomposed I
have a Slite Plurise this evening Verry Cold &c. &.
1st Chiefs name Ka kawissassa (lighting Crow.) 2d do do Pocasse (or Hay)
3d do do Piaa he to (or Eagles feather)
[Clark, October 10, 1804]
10th of October 1804 at 11 oClock the wind Shifted from S. E to N W. Mr.
Taboe visited us — we hear that Some jealousy exists as to the Chiefs
to be made — at 1 oclock the Cheifs all assembled under an orning near
the Boat, and under the American Flag. we Delivered a Similar Speech to
those delivered the Ottoes & Sioux, made three Chiefs, one for each
Village and gave them Clothes & flags — 1 s Chief is name
Ka-ha-wiss assa lighting ravin 2d Chief Po-casse (Hay) & the 3rd
Piaheto or Eagles Feather — after the Council was over we Shot the Air
gun, which astonished them, & they all left us, I observed 2 Sioux in
the Council one of them I had Seen below, they Came to interceed with the
Ricaras to Stop us as we were told — the Inds. much astonished at my
black Servent, who made him Self more turrible in thier view than I wished
him to Doe as I am told telling them that before I cought him he was wild
& lived upon people, young children was verry good eating Showed them
his Strength &c. &c. — Those Indians are not fond of Licquer
of any Kind-
[Clark, October 10, 1804]
10th of October Wednesday 1804. a fine forming wind from the S. E at about
11 oClock the wind Shifted, to the N. W. we prepare all things ready to
Speak to the Indians, Mr. Tabo & Mr. Gravolin Came to brackfast with
us the Chiefs &. came from the lower Town, but none from the 2 upper
Towns, which is the largest, we Continue to delay & waite for them at
12 oClock Dispatchd Gravelin to envite them to Come down, we have every
reason to believe that a jellousy exists between the Villages for fear of
our makeing the 1st Cheif from the lower Village, at one oClock the Cheifs
all assembled & after Some little Cerrimony the Council Commenced, we
informd them what we had told the others before i e Ottoes & Seaux.
made 3 Cheif 1 for each Village. gave them presents.
after the Council was Over we Shot the air guns which astonished them
much, they then Departed and we rested Secure all night, Those Indians wer
much astonished at my Servent, They never Saw a black man before, all
flocked around him & examind. him from top to toe, he Carried on the
joke and made himself more turibal than we wished him to doe. (Thos
Indians were not fond of Spirits Licquer. of any kind)
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
11th of October Thursday 1804 wind S. E. at 11 oClock met the 1s Chief in
Council, he Thanked us for what we had given him & his people promised
to attend to our advise, and Said the road was open for us and no one Dare
Shut it &c. &. we took him and one Chief on board and Set out, on
our way took in the 2d Chief at the mo of a Small Creek, and Came too off
the 2d village which is 3 miles above the Island, we walked up with the 2
& 3 Chiefs to their villages which is Situated on each Side of a Small
Creek, they gave us Something to eat in thier way, after Conversations on
various Subjects & Beareing the civilities of those people who are
both pore & dirtey we informed the Chiefs we would here what they had
to Say tomorrow and returned on board about 10 oClock P M. Those people
gave us to eat Corn & Beans, a large well flavoured Been which they
rob the Mice of in the Plains and is verry nurishing-all tranquillity
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
11th October Thursday 1804 a fine morning the wind from the S. E. at 11
oClock we met the Grand Chief in Council & and he made a Short Speech
thanking us for what we had Given him & his nation promisseing to
attend to the Council we had given him & informed us the road was open
& no one dare Shut it, & we might Departe at pleasure, at 1 oClock
we Set out for the upper villages 3 miles distant, the Grand Chief &
nephew on board, proceeded on at 1 mile took in the 2d Chief & Came
too off the first Second village Seperated from the 3rd by a Creek after
arrangeing all matters we walked up with the 2d Chief to his village, and
Set talking on various Subjects untile late we also visited the upper or
3rd Village each of which gave us Something to eate in their way, and a
fiew bushels of Corn Beens &. &c.
after being treated by everry civility by those people who are both pore
& Durtey we returned to our boat at about 10 oClk. P M. informing them
before we Departed that we would Speek to them tomorrow at there Seperate
Villages. Those people gave us to eate bread made of Corn & Beens,
also Corn & Beans boild. a large Been, which they rob the mice of the
Prarie which is rich & verry nurrishing also
[Clark, October 11, 1804]
(Ricares)
October the 11th Thursday 1804 we met in Council to hear what the Grand
Chief Ka kaw issassa had to Say in answer to the Speech of yesterday
The Grand Chief rose and spoke as follows i, e,
My Fathers-! My heart is glader than it ever was before to See my fathers. — a
repetition.
If you want the road open no one Can provent it it will always be open for
you.
Can you think any one Dare put their hands on your rope of your boat. No!
not one dar
When you Get to the mandans we wish you to Speak good words with that
Nation for us. we wish to be at peace with them.
It gives us pain that we do not Know how to work the Beaver, we will make
Buffalow roabs the best we Can.
when you return if I am living you will See me again the same man The
Indian in the prarie know me and listen to my words, when you come they
will meet to See you.
We Shall look at the river with impatient for your return. Finished
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
12th of October Friday after Brackfast we joined the Chiefs & Indians
on the bank who wer waiting for us, and proseeded to the 1st village and
Lodge of the Pocasse, This man Spok at Some lengths, to the Same purpote
of the 1 s Chief, & Declareing his intentions of visiting his great
father, Some Doubts as to his Safty in Passing the Sioux, requested us to
take a Chief of their nation and make a good peace with the Mandan for
them, that they Knew that they were the Cause of the war by Killing the 2
Mandan Chiefs — this Chief & people gave us about 7 bushels of
Corn, Some Tobacco of their own make, and Seed Legins & a Robe We
proceeded to the 3rd Chiefs Village which is the largest, after the usial
Seremoney of Eating Smokg. &. he Spoke to near the Same amount of the
last Chief, & more pleasently, he gave us 10 bushels of Corn, Some
Beens & Simmins, after he had Spoken, and I gave Some Sketches of the
Power & Magnitude of Our Countrey, we returned to our Boat, I have the
rhumetism on my neck the Chiefs accompanied us on board, we gave them Some
Sugar Salt and a Sun Glass each, and after eating a little they returned
on Shore leaveing one to accompany us to the Mandans, and we Set out
viewed by men womin & children of each village proceeded on about 91/2
miles and Camped on the S S. Clear & Cold — The Ricaras Are about
500 men Mr. Taboe say 600 able to bear arms, and the remains of ten
different tribes of Panias reduced by the Small Pox & wares with the
Sioux, they are tall Stout men corsily featured, their womin Small &
industerous raise great quantites of corn beans &c also Tobacco for
the men to Smoke, they collect all the wood and doe the Drudgery common
amongst Savages — Their language is So corrupted that many lodges of
the Same village with dificuelty under Stand all that each other Say — They
are Dirty, Kind, pore, & extravegent; possessing natural pride, no
begers, rcive what is given them with pleasure, Thier houses are close
together & Towns inclosed with Pickets, thier Lodges are 30 to 40 feet
in Diamuter Covered with earth on Neet Poles Set end wise resting on 4
forks Supporting Beems Set in a Square form near the Center, and lower
about 5 feet high other forks all around Supt. Strong Beems, from 8 to 10
of those, with a opening at top of about 5 to 6 feet Square, on the Poles
which pass to the top, Small Willow & grass is put across to Support
the earth — The Sioux exchange, Some merchndze of Small value which
they get from Mr. Cameron of St. Peters for Corn &c and have great
influence over this people treat them roughly and keep them in contineal
dread — The Ricaras are at war with the Crow Indians and Mandans-&c.
& — The Ricaras, have a custom Similar to the Sioux in maney
instances, they think they cannot Show a Sufficient acknowledgement
without to their guest handsom Squars and think they are despised if they
are not recved
The Sioux followed us with women two days we put them off. the Ricarries
we put off dureing the time we were near their village — 2 were Sent
by a man to follow us, and overtook us this evening, we Still procisted in
a refusial-The Dress of the Ricara men is Simpally a pr. of Mockersons
& Legins, a flap, and a Buffalow Robe — Their Hair is long and
lais loose their arms & ears are decerated with trinkets
The womin Dress Mockersons & Legins & Skirt of the Skin of the
Cabre or Antelope, long fringed & roab to the fringes & with
Sleaves, verry white, and Roabes — all were Dressed to be without hare
in the Summer
Those people make large Beeds of Diferrent colours, out of glass or Beeds
of Dift colours, verry ingeniously
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
12th October Friday 1804 I rose early after brackfast we joined the
Indians who were waiting on the bank for us to come out and go and
Council, we accordingly joined them and went to the house of the 2nd Chief
Lassil where there was many Chief and warriers & about 7 bushels of
Corn, a pr Leagins a twist of their Tobacco & Seeds of 2 Kind of
Tobacco we Set Some time before the Councill Commenced this man Spoke at
Some length declareing his dispotion to believe and prosue our Councils,
his intention of going to Visit his great father acknowledged the
Satisfaction in receiveing the presents &c. rais'g a Doubt as to the
Safty on passing the nations below particularly the Souex. requested us to
take a Chief of their nation and make a good pact with Mandins &
nations above. after answering those parts of the 2d Chiefs Speech which
required it, which appeared to give General Satisfaction we went to the
Village of the 3rd Chief and as usial Some Serimony took place before he
Could Speek to us on the Great Subject. This Chief Spoke verry much in the
Stile on nearly the Same Subjects of the other Chief who Set by his Side,
more Sincear & pleasently, he presented us with about 10 bushels of
Corn Some beens & quashes all of which we acksepted with much
pleasure, after we had ansd. his Speech & give them Some account of
the Magnitude & power of our Countrey which pleased and astonished
them verry much we returned to our boat, the Chiefs accompanied us on
board, we gave them Some Sugar a little Salt, and a Sun Glass, & Set 2
on Shore & the third proceeded on with us to the Mandens by name, at 2
oClock we Set out the inhabitints of the two Villages Viewing us from the
banks, we proceeded on about 91/2 miles and Camped on the S. S. at Some
woods passed, the evening Clear & pleasent Cooler
The Nation of the Rickerries is about 600 men able to bear arms a Great
perpotion of them have fusees they appear to be peacefull, their men tall
and perpotiend, womin Small and industerous, raise great quantities of
Corn Beens Simmins &c. also Tobacco for the men to Smoke they Collect
all the wood and do the drugery as Common amongst Savages.
Thise nation is made up of 10 Different Tribes of the Pania, who had
formerly been Seperate, but by Commotion and war with their neighbours
have Come reduced and compelled to Come together for protection, The
Curruption of the language of those different Tribes has So reduced the
language that the Different Villages do not understade all the words of
the others. — Those people are Durtey, Kind, pore, & extravigent
pursessing national pride. not beggarley reive what is given with great
pleasure, Live in worm houses large and built in an oxigon form forming a
Cone at top which is left open for the Smoke to pass, those houses are
generally 30 or 40 foot Diamiter. Covd. with earth on poles willows &
grass to prevent the earths passing thro, Those people express an
inclination to be at peace with all nations The Seaux who trade the goods
which they get of the British Traders for their corn, and great influence
over the Rickeres, poisen their minds and keep them in perpetial dread.
I Saw Some of the Chien or Dog Indians, also a man of a nation under the
Court new-This nation is at war with the Crow Indians & have 3
Children prisoners.
a curious Cuistom with the Souix as well as the reckeres is to give
handsom Squars to those whome they wish to Show Some acknowledgements to — The
Seauix we got Clare of without taking their Squars, they followed us with
Squars 13th two days. The Rickores we put off dureing the time we were at
the Towns but 2 Handsom young Squars were Sent by a man to follow us, they
Came up this evening and peresisted in their Civilities.
Dress of the men of this nation is Simply a pr. mockerson, Leagins, flap
in front & a Buffalow roabe, with ther arms & ears Deckorated The
women, wore Mockersons leagins fringed and a Shirt of Goat Skins, Some
with Sleaves. this garment is longe & Genlry. White & fringed,
tied at the waste with a roabe, in Summer without hair.
[Clark, October 12, 1804]
2nd Chief Ricaras
My Father, I am glad to See this is a fine Day to here the good Councils
& talk good talk I am glad to See you & that your intentions are
to open the road for all we See that our Grand father has Sent you to open
the road we See it Our Grand father by Sending you means to take pity on
us Our Grand father has Sent you with tobacco to make peace with all
nations, we think
The first nation who has recomended the road to be clear and open. You
Come here & have Directed all nations which you have met to open &
clear the road. you come to See the water & roads to Clear them as
Clear as possible
you just now Come to See us, & we wish you to tell our Grand ftar that
we wish the road to be kept Clear & open. I expect the Chief in the
next Town will tell you the Same to move on & open the road
I think when you Saw the nations below they wish you to open the road- (or
something to that amount) when you passd. the Souex they told you the Same
I expect. we See you here to day we are pore our women have no Strouds
& Knives to Cut their meat take pitty on us when you return.
you Come here & Derect us to Stay at home & not go to war, we
Shall do So, we hope you will when you get to the Mandins you will tell
them the Same & Cleer the road, no one Dar to Stop you, you go when
you please,
The you tell us to go Down, we will go and See our grand father & here
& receve his Gifts, and think fully that our nation will be covered
after our return, our people will look for us with the same impatience
that our Grand father looks for your return, to Give him
If I am going to See my grand father, many bad nations on the road, I am
not afraid to Die for the good of my people (all Cried around him.)
The Chief By me will go to the Mandans & hear what they will Say. (we
agree'd.)
The verry moment we Set out to go down we will Send out my Brother to
bring all the Nation in the open prarie to See me part on this Great
mission to See my Great father.
our people hunting Shall be glad to here of your being here & they
will all Come to See, as you Cannot Stay they must wate for your return to
See you, we are pore take pity on our wants
The road is for you all to go on, who do you think will injure a white man
when they come to exchange for our Roabes & Beaver
after you Set out many nations in the open plains may Come to make war
against us, we wish you to Stop their guns & provent it if possible.
Finished
3d Chief of Ricares
My fathers I will see the Indians below & See if they have the hart as
they tell you
The nation below is the Mahas & Ottes & but one nation, (the
Souix) has not a good heart.
I always look at the 1 t Chief & the 2d whin they go & will also
follow ther example & go on also
You See those 2 men they are chiefs, when I go they will take Care, they
beleve your words.
Mabie we will not tell the trooth, as to the Child perhaps they will not
wish to go.
My Children the old women & men whin I return I can then give them,
Some a Knife Some powder & others Ball &c. What is the matter if
we was to go for nothing my great Chief wish to go, I wish to go also.
when I go to See my Grand father I wish to return quicke for fear of my
people being uneasy.
my Children are Small & perhaps will be uneasy whin I may be Safe
I must go, I also wish to go, perhaps I may when I return make my people
glad
I will Stay at home & not go to War even if my people are Struck
we will believ your word but I fear the Indians above will not believe
your word.
I will think that 1/2 of the men who will return will Stay in this Village
1/2 below in the other villages
what did the Seaus tell you?(we informd them)
[Clark, October 13, 1804]
13th of October Satturday 1804 Newmon Confined for Mutinous expressions,
proceeded on passed a Camp of Sioux on the S. S. those people did not
Speak to us. passed a Creek on the S. S. 18 miles above the Ricaras I call
Stone Idol Creek, this Creek heads in a Small lake at no great distance,
near which there is a Stone to which the Indians asscribe great virtue
&. &c. at 21 Miles passed a Creek 15 yds wide on the L. S I call
Pocasse, we observed great quantites of grapes, a fine Breez from S E
Camped on the L. S. Some rain thus evening, we formed a Court Martial of 7
of our party to Try Newmon, they Senteenced him 75 Lashes and banishment
from the party — The river narrow current jentle & wood plenty on
the Bottoms the up land is as usial Open divircified plains, generally
rich & leavel.
[Clark, October 13, 1804]
13th of October Satturday 1804 one man J. Newmon Confined for mutinous
expression Set out early proceeded on, passd. a Camp of Seauex on the S.
S. those people only viewed us & did not Speak one word — The
visiters of last evening all except one returned which is the Brother of
the Chief we have on board passed (1) a Creek on the S. S. 13 yds. at 18
me. above the Town heading in Some Ponds a Short Diste. to the N. E we
call Stone Idol C. (well to observe here that the Yankton or R Jacque
heads at about 2 Days March of this place Easterly, the R de Seauex one
Day further, the Chien a branch of R. Rouche Still beyend, and the River
St. Peters 4 Days March from this place on the Same direction Informtn. of
the Rickores). passed 2 large willow (2) & Sand Islands above the
mouth of the last Creek — at 21 miles above the Village passed a (3)
Creek about 15 yards wide on the L. S. we Call after 2d Chief Pocasse (or
Hay) nearly opposit this creek a fiew miles from the river on the S. S. 2
Stones resembling humane persons & one resembling a Dog is Situated in
the open Prarie, to those Stone the Rickores pay Great reverance make
offerings whenever they pass (Infomtn. of the Chief & Intepeter) those
people have a Curious Tredition of those Stones, one was a man in Love,
one a Girl whose parents would not let marry, the Dog went to mourn with
them all turned to Stone gradually, Commenceing at the feet. Those people
fed on grapes untill they turned, & the woman has a bunch of grapes
yet in her hand on the river near the place those are Said to be Situated,
we obsd. a greater quantity of fine grapes than I ever Saw at one place.
The river about the Island on which the lower Rickores Village is Situated
is narrow and Conts. a great propotion of Timber than below, the bottoms
on both Sides is Covered with timber the up lands naked the Current jentle
and Sand bars Confined to the points Generally
We proceeded on under a fine Breeze from the S.E. and Camped late at the
upper part of Some wood on the Starboard Side, Cold & Some rain this
evening. we Sent out hunters Killed one Deer.
We Tried the Prisoner Newmon last night by 9 of his Peers they did
"Centence him 75 Lashes & Disbanded the party."
[Lewis and Clark, October 13, 1804]
Orders 13th of October 1804 A court Martial to Consist of nine members
will set to day at 12 oClock for the trial of John Newman now under
Confinement Capt. Clark will attend to the forms & rules of a
president without giveing his opinion
Detail for the Court Martial
Sert. John Ordaway
Sergeant Pat. Gass
Jo. Shields
H. Hall
Jo. Collins
Wm. Werner
Wm. Bratten
Jo. Shannon
Silas Goodrich
Meriwether Lewis
Capt. 1st U S. Regt. Infty.
Win Clark Capt
or E. N W D
In conformity to the above order the Court martial convened this day for
the trial of John Newman, charged with "having uttered repeated
expressions of a highly criminal and mutinous nature; the same having a
tendency not only to distroy every principle of military discipline, but
also to alienate the affections of the individuals composing this
Detachment to their officers, and disaffect them to the service for which
they have been so sacredly and solemnly engaged." — The Prisonar plead
not guilty to the charge exhibited against him. The court after having
duly considered the evidence aduced, as well as the defense of the said
prisonor, are unanimously of opinion that the prisonar John Newman is
guilty of every part of the charge exhibited against him, and do sentence
him agreeably to the rules and articles of war, to receive seventy five
lashes on his bear back, and to be henceforth discarded from the perminent
party engaged for North Western discovery; two thirds of the Court
concurring in the sum and nature of the punishment awarded. the commanding
officers approve and confirm the sentence of the court, and direct the
punishment take place tomorrow between the hours of one and two P.M. — The
commanding officers further direct that John Newman in future be attatched
to the mess and crew of the red Perogue as a labouring hand on board the
same, and that he be deprived of his arms and accoutrements, and not be
permited the honor of mounting guard untill further orders; the commanding
officers further direct that in lue of the guard duty from which Newman
has been exempted by virtue of this order, that he shall be exposed to
such drudgeries as they may think proper to direct from time to time with
a view to the general relief of the detachment.
[Clark, October 14, 1804]
14th of October Sunday 1804 Some rain last night we Set out in the rain
which continued all day passed a Creek on the L. S. Piaheto 15 yds Wide,
halted on a Sand bar and had the punishmt inflicted on Newmon, which
caused the indian Chieif to cry untill the thing was explained to him
Camped opposit an antient fortification which is on the L. S, when I
explained to the Chief the Cause of whipping N — he observed that
examples were necessary & that he himself had made them by Death, but
his nation never whiped even from their bearth.
[Clark, October 14, 1804]
14th of October Sunday 1804. Some rain last night all wet & Cold, we
Set early the rain contind all Day at ____ miles we passed a (1) Creek in
the L. S. 15 yards wide this Creek we Call after the 3rd Chief Piaheto (or
Eagles feather) at 1 oClock we halted on a Sand bar & after Dinner
executed the Sentence of the Court Martial So far as giveing the Corporal
punishment, & proceeded on a fiew miles, the wind a head from N. E.
Camped in a Cove of the bank on the S. S. imediately opposit our Camp on
the L. Side I observe an antient fortification the walls of which appear
to be 8 or 10 feet high, the evening wet and disagreeable, the river
Something wider more timber on the banks
The punishment of this day allarmd. the Indian Chief verry much, he Cried
aloud (or effected to Cry) I explained the Cause of the punishment and the
necessity He thought examples were also necessary, & he himself had
made them by Death, his nation never whiped even their Children, from
their burth.
[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October Rained all last night, passed a Ricara hunting camp on the
S.S. & halted at another on the L.S, Several from the 1t Camp visited
us and gave meat as also those of the Camp we halted at, we gave them fish
hooks Some beeds &c. as we proceeded on we Saw a number of Indians on
both Sides all day, Saw L. S some Curious Nnobs high and much the
resemblance of a hiped rough house, we halted at a Camp of 10 Lodges of
Ricaras on the S. S., we visited thier Lodges & were friendly recved
by all — their women fond of our men — &c.
[Clark, October 15, 1804]
15th of October Monday 1804 rained all last night, we Set out early and
proceeded on at 3 Miles passed an Ind. Camp on the S. S. we halted above
and about 30 of the Indians came over in their Canoos of Skins, we eate
with them, they give us meat, in return we gave fishhooks & Some
beeds, about a mile higher we came too on the L. S. at a Camp of Ricres of
about 8 Lodges, we also eate & they gave Some meat, we proceded on Saw
numbers of Indians on both Sides passing a Creek, Saw many Curious hills,
high and much the resemblance of a house with a hiped roof, at 12 oClock
it Cleared away and the evening was pleasent, wind from the N. E. — at
Sunset we arrived at a Camp of Ricares of 10 Lodges on the S. S. we Came
too and Camped near them Capt Lewis & my Self went with the Chief who
accompanis us, to the Huts of Several of the men all of whome Smoked &
gave us Something to eate also Some meat to take away, those people were
kind and appeared to be much plsd. at the attentioned paid them.
Those people are much pleased with my black Servent — Their womin
verry fond of carressing our men. &.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th of October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning 2 Squars verry anxious
to accompany us we Set out with our Chief on Board by name Ar ke tar nar
shar (or Chief of the Town) a little above our Camp on the L. S. passed an
old Shyenne Village, which appears to have been Serounded with a wall of
earth; this is the retreat & first Stand of this nation after being
reduced by the Sioux and drove from their Countrey on the heads of red
River of L Winipic where they Cultivated the landspassed a Creek I call
So-harch or Girl Creek L. S. 2 miles higher passed Woman Crreek or
Char-parts passed an Island Situated in a bend to the S. S. at the lower
point of this Island a Creek comes in Called Kee-tooth
Sar-kar-nar — or the place of Beaver above the Island a Small River on
the Same S. Side Called War-re-Con nee Elk shed their horns, this river is
35 yards wide & heads near the River au Jacque, Carp Island wind hard
a head from the N W. Saw great numbers of goats or Antelope on Shore, Capt
Lewis one man & the Ricara Chief walked on Shore, in the evening I
discovered a number of Indians on each Side and goats in the river or
Swiming & on Sand bars, when I came near Saw the boys in the water
Swiming amongst the goats & Killing them with Sticks, and then hauling
them to the Shore those on Shore Kept them in the water, I saw 58 Killed
in this way and on the Shore, the hunter with Cap Lewis Shot 3 goats I
came too and Camped above the Ricara Camp on the L. S. Several Indians
visited us duereing the night Some with meat, Sang and were merry all
night.
[Clark, October 16, 1804]
16th October Tuesday 1804 Some rain this morning, 2 young Squars verry
anxious to accompany us, we Set out with our Chief on board by name Ar ke
tar na Shar or Chief of the Town, a little above our Camp on the L. S.
passed a Circular work, where the, Shar ha (or Chien, or Dog Indians)
formerly lived, a Short distance abov passed a Creek which we Call Chien
Creek, above is a willow Island Situated near (i ) the L. Side a large
Sand bar above & on both Sides (2) passed a Creek above the Island on
the L. S. call So-harch (or Girls) Creek, at 2 miles higher up (3) passed
a Creek on L. S. call Char part (or womins) Creek passed (5) an Island
Situated in a bend to the S. S. this Isd. is about 11/2 miles long,
Covered with timber Such as Cotton wood, opsd. the lower point a creek
coms in on the S. S. called by the Indians Kee tooth Sar kar nar (or place
of Beavr) above the Island a Small river about 35 yards wide corns in
Called War re con ne or (Elk Shed their horns). The Island is Called Carp
Island by Ivens. wind hard from the N. W. Saw great numbers of Goats on
the Shore S. S. proceeded on Capt. Lewis & the Indian Chief walked on
Shore, Soon after I discovered Great numbers of Goats in the river, and
Indians on the Shore on each Side, as I approached or got nearer I
discovered boys in the water Killing the Goats with Sticks and halling
them to Shore, Those on the banks Shot them with arrows and as they
approachd. the Shore would turn them back of this Gangue of Goats I
counted 58 of which they had killed & on the Shore, one of our hunters
out with Cap Lewis killed three Goats, we passed the Camp on the S. S. and
proceeded 1/2 mile and Camped on the L. S. many Indians came to the boat
to See, Some Came across late at night, as they approach they hollowed and
Sung, after Staying a Short time 2 went for Some meat, and returned in a
Short time with fresh & Dried Buffalow, also goat, those Indians
Strayed all night, They Sung and was verry merry the greater part of the
night
[Lewis, October 16, 1804]
October 16th This day took a small bird alive of the order of the ____ or
goat suckers. it appeared to be passing into the dormant state. on the
morning of the 18th the murcury was at 30 above 0. the bird could scarcely
move. — I run my penknife into it's body under the wing and completely
distroyed it's lungs and heart — yet it lived upwards of two hours
this fanominon I could not account for unless it proceeded from the want
of circulation of the blood. — the recarees call this bird to'-na it's
note is at-tah-to'-nah'; at-tah'to'-nah'; to-nah, a nocturnal bird, sings
only in the night as does the whipperwill. — it's weights oz 17 Grains
Troy
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th of October 1804 Wind S. W. I walked on Shore with the Ricara Chief
and an Inteprieter, they told me maney extroadenary Stories, I Killed 3
Dear & a Elk, the Chief Killed a Deer and our hunters Killed 4 Deer,
in my absenc the wind rose So high that the Boat lay too all Day; Latd 46°
23' 57" N, I caught a Small uncommon whiperwill we observe emence herds of
Goats, or Antelopes flocking down from the N E Side & Swiming the
River, the Chief tels me those animals winter in the Black Mountain, and
in the fall return to those mounts from every quarter, and in the Spring
disperse in the planes, those emence herds we See all of which is on the N
E Side of the River is on their way to the mountain, and in the Spring
they will be as noumeroes on their return (some ganges winter on the
Missouri) — camped on the L. S.
note from the Ricares to the River Jacque near N. E. is about 40 mes. to
the Chien a fork of R Rogue 20 passing the Souix River near the Chien this
from information of Mr. Graveline who passed through this Countrey
[Clark, October 17, 1804]
17th October Wednesday 1804. Set out early a fine morning the wind from
the N W. after brackfast I walked on Shore with the Indian Chief &
Interpeters, Saw Buffalow Elk and Great numbers of Goats in large gangues
(I am told by Mr. G. that those Animals winter in the Black mountains and
this is about the Season they Cross from the East of the Missouris to go
to that Mountain, they return in the Spring and pass the Missourie in
Great numbers). This Chief tells me of a number of their Treditions about
Turtles, Snakes, &. and the power of a perticiler rock or Cave on the
next river which informs of everr thing none of those I think worth while
mentioning — The wind So hard a head the boats Could not move aftr 10
oClock, Capt Louis Took the altitude of the Sun Laid. 46° 23' 57" I Killed
3 Deer and the hunters with me killed 3 also the Indian Shot one but Could
not get it — I Scaffeled up the Deer & returned & met the boat
after night on the L. S. about 6 miles above the place we Camped last
night — one of the men Saw a number of Snakes, Capt Lewis Saw a large
Beaver house S. S. I Cought a Whipprwill Small & not Common-. the
leaves are falling fast-. the river wide and full of Sand bars,-. Great
numbers of verry large Stone on the Sides of the hills & Some rock of
a brownish Colour in the Ld. Bend below this-.
Great numbers of Goats are flocking down to the S. Side of the river on
their way to the Black Mountains where they winter those animals return in
the Spring in the Same way & Scatter in different directions.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October 1804. at 6 miles passed the mouth of La Bullet or Cannon
Ball River on the L. Side about 140 yards Wide, and heads near the Black
Mountains above the mouth of this River, in and at the foot of the Bluff,
and in the water is a number of round Stones, resembling Shells and Cannon
balls of Different Sises, and of excellent grit for Grindstons — the
Bluff continus for about a mile, The water of this River is confined
within 40 yards — we met 2 french men in a Canoe, who informed us they
wer trapping near the mandans and were robed of 4 Traps, & part of
their Skins and Several other articles by Indians he took to be Mandans
those men return with us, Saw emence numbers of Goats all Day S. S. our
hunters Kill Sevral passed a large Creek Called Che wah or fish Creek on
the S. S. 28 yds. wide, passed a Small Creek at 2 m on the L. S. Camped on
the L. S. Saw a no of Buffalow, & in one gangue 248 Elk our hunters
Killed 6 Deer & 4 Elk this evening, The Countrey is leavel and fine
Some high Short hills, and ridges at a Distance, Bottoms fine and
Partially timbered with Cotton wood principally Some ash & Elm.
[Clark, October 18, 1804]
18th of October Thursday 1804 Set out early proceeded on at 6 mes. passed
the mouth of (1) la Boulet (or Cannon Ball River) about 140 yards wide on
the L. S. this river heads in the Court not or Black mountains) (a fine
Day) above the mouth of this river Great numbers of Stone perfectly round
with fine Grit are in the Bluff and on the Shore, the river takes its name
from those Stones which resemble Cannon Balls. — The water of this
river is Confined within 40 yards. We met 2 french men in a perogue
Desending from hunting, & complained of the Mandans robing them of 4
Traps ther fur & Seeveral othr articles Those men were in the imploy
of our Ricaree interpeter Mr. Gravelin they turned & followered us.
Saw Great numbers of Goats on the S. S. Comeing to the river our hunters
Killed 4 of them Some run back and others crossed & prosceed on their
journey to the Court Noir, at (3) passed a Small River Called Che wah or
fish river on the S. S. this river is about 28 yards wide and heads to the
N. E, passed a Small creek on the L. S. 1 mile abov the last, and Camped
on a Sand bar on the L. S. opposit to us we Saw a Gangue of Buffalow bulls
which we did not think worth while to kill- our hunters Killd. 4 Goats 6
Deer 4 Elk & a pelican & informs that they Saw in one Gang 248
Elk, (I walked on Shore, in the evining with a view to See Some of those
remarkable places mentioned by evens, none of which I could find,) The
Countrey in this quarter is Generally leavel & fine Some high Short
hills, and some ragid ranges of Hills at a Distans
The ricara Indians inform us that they find no black tail Deer as high up
as this place, those we find are of the fallow Deer Kind
The Ricareis are not fond of Spiritous liquers, nor do they apper to be
fond of receiveing any or thank full for it
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th of October Friday 1804. Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the
S. E. more timber than Common in the bottoms passed a large Pond on the S.
S. I walked out on the high land L. Side and observed great numbers of
Buffalows, I counted in view at one time 52 gangues of Buffalow & 3 of
Elk, besides Deer & goats &c. all the Streems falling from the
hills or high lands So brackish that the water Can't be Drank without
effecting the person making use of it as Globesalts-, I saw in my walk
Several remarkable high Conocal hills, one 90 feet, one 60 and others
Smaller-the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet Bird live in the hollows of
those hills, which holes are made by the water passing from the top &
&. I also Saw an old Village fortified Situated on the top of a high
Point, which the Ricarra Chief tels me were Mandans, we Camped on the L.
S. I Killed a Deer & Saw Swans &c. our hunters Killed 4 Elk and 6
Deer to Day
[Clark, October 19, 1804]
19th October Friday 1804 a fine morning wind from the S. E. we Set out
early under a gentle Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber than
Common on the banks on this part of the river — passed a large Pond on
the S. S. — I walked out on the Hills & observed Great numbers of
Buffalow feedeing on both Sides of the river I counted 52 Gangues of
Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one view, all the runs which come from the high
hills which is Generally about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish
and near the Hills (the Salts are) and the Sides of the Hills & edges
of the Streems, the mineral salts appear I saw Som remarkable round hills
forming a Cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 & Several others
Smaller, the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet bird live in the holes of
those hills, the holes form by the water washing thro Some parts in its
passage Down from the top — near one of those noles, on a point of a
hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains of an old
village, which had been fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a
party of Mandins lived there, Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation we
proceeded on & Camped on the L. S. opposit the upper of those Conocal
hills our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a pelican, I saw Swans in a
Pond & Killed a fat Deer in my walk, Saw above 10 wolves. This day is
pleasent
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October 1804 wind from the S E, I walked out to view those
remarkable places pointed out by Evens, and continud all day Saw an old
Village of the Mandans below the Chess chi ter R. appear to have been
fortified above the village on the Same L. S. is a coal bank where we
Campd. passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and an Island on the L. S Covered
with willows Small Cotton the Countrey thro which I passed this day is
Delightfull, Timber in the bottoms, Saw great nos. of Buffalow Elk Goats
& Deer as we were in want of them I Killed 3 Deer, our hunters 10 Deer
and wounded a white Bear, I Saw Several fresh tracks of that animal double
the Sise of the largest track I ever Saw, great numbers of wolves, those
animals follow the buffalow and devour, those that die or are Killed, and
those too fat or pore to Keep up with the gangue
[Clark, October 20, 1804]
20th of October Satterday 1804 Set out early this morning and proceeded on
the wind from the S. E after brackfast I walked out on the L. Side to See
those remarkable places pointed out by Evins, I saw an old remains of a
villige on the Side of a hill which the Chief with us Too ne tels me that
nation lived in a number villages on each Side of the river and the
Troubleson Seauex caused them to move about 40 miles higher up where they
remained a fiew years & moved to the place they now live, (2) passed a
Small Creek on the S. S. (3) and one on the L. S. passed (4) a Island
Covered with willows laying in the middle of the river no current on the
L. S. Camped on the L. S. above a Bluff containing Coal (5) of an inferior
quallity, this bank is imedeately above the old village of the Mandans-
The Countrey is fine, the high hills at a Distanc with gradual assents, I
Kild 3 Deer The Timber Confined to the bottoms as usial which is much
larger than below. Great numbers of Buffalow Elk & Deer, Goats. our
hunters killed 10 Deer & a Goat to day and wounded a white Bear I saw
Several fresh track of those animals which is 3 times as large as a mans
track-, The wind hard all Day from the N. E. & East, great numbers of
buffalow Swiming the river
I observe near all large gangues of buffalow wolves and when the buffalow
move those Anamals follow and feed on those that are killed by accident or
those that are too pore or fat to Keep up with the gangue.
[Lewis, October 20, 1804]
20th October Peter Crusat this day shot at a white bear he wounded him,
but being alarmed at the formidable appearance of the bear he left his
tomahalk and gun; but shortly after returned and found that the bear had
taken the oposite rout. — soon after he shot a buffaloe cow broke her
thy, the cow pursued him he concealed himself in a small raviene.
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21t of October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E.
Some rain in the night which feesed as it fell, at Day began to Snow and
Continued all the fore part of the day, at 1/4 of a mile passed the Mouth
of Chess-che tar (or Heart) River L. S. 38 yards wide, this river heads
near Turtle mountain with Knife River on this River is a Smothe Stone
which the Indians have great fath in & Consult the Stone on all great
occasions which they Say Marks or Simblems are left on the Stone of what
is to take place &c. an old mandan Village above the mouth of this
Little River, I saw a Single tree in the open Plains which the Mandans
formerly paid great Devotion to run Cords thro their flesh & tie
themselves to the tree to make them brave, passed an old Village on a
Small run on the S S. one on the bank L. and Camped, I Killed a fat
Buffalow this evening — Little gun all my hunting
[Clark, October 21, 1804]
21st October Sunday 1804 a verry Cold night wind hard from the N. E Some
rain in the night which frosed up it fell at Day light it began to Snow
and Continud all the fore part of the Day passed just above our Camp (1) a
Small river on the L. S. Called by the Indians Chiss-Cho-tar this river is
about 38 yards wide Containing a good Deel of water Some Distance up this
River is Situated a Stone which the Indians have great fath in & Say
they See painted on the Stone, "all the Calemites & good fortune to
hapin the nation & partes who visit it" — a tree (an oak) which
Stands alone near this place about 2 miles off in the open prarie which
has with Stood the fire they pay Great respect to, make Holes and tie
Strings thro the Skins of their necks and around this tree to make them
brave (all this is the information of Too ne is a whipper will) the Chief
of the Ricares who accompanied us to the Mandins, at 2 miles (2) passed
the 2nd Villages of the Manden, which was in existance at the Same time
with the 1st this village is at the foot of a hill on the S. S. on a
butifull &extensive plain — at this time Covered with Buffalow — a
Cloudy afternoon, I killed a fine Buffalow, we Camped on the L. S. verry
Cold ground Covered with Snow. one orter KIM.
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd of October 1804 last night at about 1 oClock I was violently attacked
with Rhumetism in my neck, which was so violently I could not move, Cap L.
applied a hot Stone raped in flannel which gave temperry ease, we passed a
War party of Tetons on their way as we Supposed to the Mandans of 12 men
on the L. S. we gave them nothing and refused to put them across the
river, passed 2 old Villages at the mouth of a large Creek L. S and a
Small Island at the head of which is a bad place, an old Village on the S.
S. and the upper of the 6 Villages the Mandans occupied about 25 years ago
this village was entirely cut off by the Sioux & one of the others
nearly, the Small Pox distroyed great Numbers
[Clark, October 22, 1804]
22nd October Monday 1804 last night at 1 oClock I was violently and
Suddinly attacked with the Rhumitism in the neck which was So violent I
could not move Capt. applied a hot Stone raped in flannel, which gave me
some temporry ease,-. we Set out early, the morning Cold at 7 oClock we
Came too at a Camp of Teton Seaux on the L. S. those people 12 in number
were naikd and had the appearanc of war, we have every reason to believ
that they are going or have been to Steel horses from the Mandins, they
tell two Stories, we gave them nothing after takeing brackfast proceeded
on — my Neck is yet verry painfull at times Spasms.
Camped on the L Side, passed an Island Situated on the L. Side at the head
of which & Mandans village S. S. we passd a bad place — The
hunters killed a buffalow bull, they Say out of about 300 buffalow which
they Saw, they did not See one Cow. Great Deel of Beaver Sign. Several
Cought every night.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October 1804 Some Snow, passed 5 Lodges fortified the place the
two french men were robed Those are the hunting Camps of the mandans, who
has latterly left them. we camped on the L. S.
[Clark, October 23, 1804]
23rd of October Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning Some Snow Set out early pass
five Lodges which was Diserted, the fires yet burning we Suppose those
were the Indians who robed the 2 french Trappers a fiew days ago those 2
men are now with us going up with a view to get their property from the
Indians thro us. cold & Cloudy camped on The L. S. of the river
[Clark, October 24, 1804]
24th of October Cloudy Some little Snow (my Rhumetism Continue, not So bad
as the 2 last days,) a butufull Countrey on both Sides, bottoms covered
with wood, we See no game to day, passed an old village of a Band of Me ne
tarres Called Mah har ha where they lived 40 year ago on the L. S. Came
too on an Island Caused by the river cutting through a narrow point 7
years ago, on this Island we wer visited by the grand Chief of the mandans
a 2d Chief and Some other, who wer Camped on the Island, those Chief met
our Ricarra Chief with great Corduallity, & Smoked together Cap Lewis
Visited the Camps 5 Lodges, and proceeded on & Camped near a 2d Camp
of Mandans on the S. S. nearly opposit the old Ricara & Manden Village
which the Ricarras abandaned in the year 1789
[Clark, October 24, 1804]
24th October Wednesday 1804
Set out early a Cloudy day Some little Snow in the morning I am
Something better of the Rhumutim in my neck — a butifull Countrey on
both Sides of the river. The bottoms Covd. with wood, we have Seen no
game on the river to day a prof of the Indians hunting in the
neighbourhod (1) passed a Island on the S. S. made by the river Cutting
through a point, by which the river is Shortened Several miles — on this
Isld. we Saw one of the Grand Chiefs of the Mandins, with five Lodges
hunting, this Cheif met the Chief of the Ricares who accompanied us
with great Cordiallity & Sermony Smoked the pipe & Capt. Lewis with the
Interpeter went with the Chiefs to his Lodges at 1 mile distant, after
his return we admited the Grand Chief & his brother for a few minits on
our boat. proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on the S. S. below
the old Village of the Mandins & ricares. — Soon after our landg. 4
Mandins Came from a Camp above, the Ricares Chief went with them to
their Camp,
25th of October Thursday 1804.
a Gentle Breeze from the S. E by E passed an (1) old Village on a high
Plain where the Mandans onced lived & after they left the Village &
moved higher the Ricaras took possession & live until 1799 when they
abandoned it & flew from the just revenge of the Mandans, a verry
extensive Bottom above the Village above the Center of which (2) the
Mandans lived in the 2 villages on the L. 5., but little timber-
Several parties of Indians on each Side of the River going up. in view
in every directions — we are informed that the Sioux has latterly taken
horses from the Big Bellies or Minitaries and on their way homerwards
they fell in with the Assinniboins who killed them and took the horses
& a frenchman Menard who resided with the Mandan for 20 years past was
Killed a fiew days ago on his way from the Britishment astablishments
on the Assineboin River, 150 miles N. of this place to the mandans by
the assinniboin Indians — we were frequently Called to by parties of
Indians & requested to land & talk, passed a verry bad place & Camped
on a Point S S. opposit a high hill Several Indians visit us this
evening the Sun of the late great Chief of the Mandans who had 2 of his
fingers off and appeared to be pearced in maney places on inquiring the
reason, was informed that it was a testimony to their grief for
Deceased freinds, they frequently Cut off Sevral fingers & pierced
themselves in Different parts, a Mark of Savage effection, wind hard
from the S. W. verry Cold R Fields with a Rhumitisum in his Neck one
man R. in his hips my Self much better, Those Indians appear to have
Similar Customs with the Ricaras, their Dress the Same more mild in
their language & justures &c. &c.
[Clark, October 25, 1804]
25th of October Thursday 1804 a Cold morning Set out early under a gentle
Breeze from the S. E. by E proceeded on, passed (1) the 3rd old Village of
the Mandans which has been Desd. for many years, This village was Situated
on an eminance of about 40 foot above the water on the L. S. back for
Several miles is a butifull plain (2) at a Short distance above this old
village on a Continuation of the Same eminance was Situated the which have
been avacuated only Six years, above this village a large and extensive
bottom for Several miles in which the Squars raised ther Corn, but little
timber near the villages, on the S. S. below is a point of excellent
timber, and in the point Several miles above is fine timber, Several
parties of Mandins rode to the river on the S. S. to view us indeed they
are continuelly in Sight Satisying their Curiossities as to our apperance
&c. we are told that the Seaux has latterly fallen in with & Stole
the horses of the Big belley, on their way home they fell in with the
Ossiniboin who killed them and took the horses — a frenchman has
latterly been killed by the Indians on the Track to the tradeing
establishment on the Ossinebine R. in the North of this place (or British
fort) This frenchman has lived many years with the Mandins — we were
frequently called on to land & talk to parties of the Mandins on the
Shore, wind Shifted to the S. W at about 11 oClock and blew hard untill 3
OCk. clouded up river full of Sand bars & we are at a great loss to
find the Channel of the river, frequently run on the Sand bars which
Detain us much passed a verry bad riffle of rocks in the evining by
takeing the L. S. of a Sand bar and Camped on a Sand point on the S. S.
opposit a high hill on the L. S. Several Indians Come to See us this
evening, amongst others the Sun of the late great Cheif of the Mandins,
this man has his two little fingers off; on inqureing the Cause, was told
it was Customary for this nation to Show their greaf by Some testimony of
pain, and that it was not uncommon for them to take off 2 Smaller fingers
of the hand and Some times more with ther marks of Savage effection
The wind blew verry hard this evening from the S. W. verry Cold
R. Fields with the rhumitim in his neck, P. Crusat with the Same Complaint
in his Legs — the party other wise is well, as to my Self I feel but
Slight Simptoms of that disorder at this time,
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October 1804 wind from the S. E we Set the Ricara Chief on Shore
with Some Mandans, many on each Side veiwing of us, we took in 2 Chiefs
(Coal and Big Man) and halted a feiw minits at their Camps, on the L. S.
fortified in their way, here we Saw a trader from the Ossinniboin River
Called McCracken, this man arrived 9 day ago with goods to trade for
horses & Roabs one other man with him — we Camped on the L. Side a
Short distanc below the r st rnandan village on the L. S. many men women
& Children flocked down to See us — Capt Lewis walked to the
Village with the Chief and interpeters, my Rheumitism increasing prevented
me from going also, and we had Deturmined that both would not leave the
boat at the Same time untill we Knew the Desposition of the Nativs, Some
Chieef visited me & I Smoked with them — they appeared delighted
with the Steel Mill which we were obliged to use, also with my black
Servent, Capt Lewis returned late
[Clark, October 26, 1804]
26th of October Friday 1804 Set out early wind from the S W proceeded on
Saw numbers of the Mandins on Shore, we Set the Ricare Chief on Shore, and
we proceeded on to the Camp of two of their Grand Chiefs where we delayed
a fiew minits, with the Chiefs and proceeded on takeing two of their
Chiefs on board & Some of the heavy articles of his house hole, Such
as earthen pots & Corn, proceeded on, at this Camp Saw a McCracken
Englishmon from the N. W Company this mana Came nine Days ago to trade for
horses & Buffalo robes, — one other man Came with him. the Indians
Continued on the banks all day — but little wood on this part of the
river, many Sand bars and bad places, water much devided between them
for the 26th. Octr. we came too and Camped on the L. S. about 1/2 a mile
below the ist. Manddin Town on the L. S. Soon after our arrival many men
womin & Children flocked down to See us, Capt Lewis walked to the
village with the principal Chiefs and our interpters, my rhumatic
Complaint increasing I could not go — if I was well only one would
have left the Boat & party untill we new the Disposition of the Inds.
I Smoked with the Cheifs who Came after. Those people apd much pleased
with the Corn mill which we were obliged to use, & was fixed in the
boat.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804 we Set out early and Came too at the
village on the L. S. where we delayed a few minits, I walked to a Chiefs
Logg & Smoked with them, but Could not eat, which did displease them a
little, here I met with a Mr. Jessomme, who lived in this nation 13 years,
I got him to interpet & he proceedd on with us we proceeded on to a
Centeral point opposit the Knife River, & formed a Camp on the S. S.
above the 2d Mandan village & opsd. the Mah-har-ha village — and
raised a flag Staff — Capt Lewis & the Intepeters walked down to
the 2d Village of Mandans, & returned in about an hour, we Sent 3
Carrotes of tobacco to the other villages & enviting them to come down
and Council with us tomorrow, — we endeaver to precure Some Knowledge
of the principal Chiefs of the Different nations &. — well to give
my ideas as to the impression thais man makes on me is a Cunin artfull an
insoncear — he tels me he was once empld. by my brother in the
Illinois & of his description I conceve as a Spye upon the British of
Michillinicknac & St Joseph,s we think he may be made use full to us
& do employ him as an interpeter — no. of Indians bring their
wives &c. to the campes of our party on Shore &c.
[Clark, October 27, 1804]
27th of October Satturday 1804 we Set out arly Came too at this Village on
the L. S. this village is Situated on an eminance of about 50 feet above
the Water in a handson Plain it Containes houses in a kind of Picket work.
the houses are round and Verry large Containing Several families, as also
their horses which is tied on one Side of the enterance, a Discription of
those houses will be given hereafter, I walked up & Smoked a pipe with
the Cheifs of this Village they were anxious that I would Stay and eat
with them, my indisposition provented my eating which displeased them,
untill a full explination took place, I returned to the boat and Sent 2
Carrots of Tobacco for them to Smoke, and proceeded on, passed the 2d
Village and Camped opsd. the Village of the Weter Soon or ah wah bar ways
which is Situated on an eminance in a plain on the L. S. this Village is
Small and Contains but fiew inhabitents. above this village & also
above the Knife river on the Same Side of the Missouri the Big bellies
Towns are Situated a further Discription will be given here after as also
of the Town of Mandans on this Side of the river i e S. Side
a fine worm Day we met with a french man by the name of jassamme which we
imploy as an interpeter This man has a wife & Children in the Village — Great
numbers on both Sides flocked down to the bank to view us as wee passed.
Capt. Lewis with the Interpetr. walked down to the village below our Camp
After delaying one hour he returned and informed me the Indians had
returned to their village &c., &c., we Sent three Carrots of
Tobacco by three young men, to the three Villages above inviting them to
come Down & Council with us tomorrow. many Indians Came to view us
Some Stayed all night in the Camp of our party — we procured Some
information of Mr. Jessomme of the Chiefs of the Different Nations
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
28th of October 1804 the wind So hard from the S. W. We could not meet the
Indians in Councils, those who visited us we Sent to the nearest village,
Consulted the Black Cat M Chief about the Chiefs of the Different
Villages, who gave his Oppinion to us.
[Clark, October 28, 1804]
Sunday 28th of October 1804 a windey Day, fair and Clear many of the
Grosvantres (or Big Bellies) and Watersons Came to See us and hear the
Council the wind being So violently hard from the S. W. provented our
going into Councel, (indeed the Chiefs of the Manodans from the lower
Village Could not Cross, we made up the presents and entertained Several
of the Curious Cheifs whome, wished to See the Boat which was verry
Curious to them viewing it as great medison, as they also viewed my black
Servent The Black Cat Grand Chief of the Mandans, Capt Lewis & my Self
with an Interpeter walked up the river about 11/2 miles our views were to
examine the Situation & Timbers for a fort, we found the Situation
good but the Timber Scerce, or at least Small timbr Such as would answer
us-, we Cunsulted the Grand Chief in respect to the other Chiefs of the
Defferent Villages he gave the names of 12 — George Drewyer Cought 2
Beaver above our Camp last night, we had Several presents from the Woman
of Corn boild homney, Soft Corn &c. &c. I prosent ajar to the
Chiefs wife who recved it with much pleasure our men verry Chearfull this
evening — we Sent the Cheifs of the Gross Vantres to Smoke a pipe with
the Grand Chef of the Mandins in his Village, & told them we would
Speek tomorrow.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th of October 1804 a fine morning after Brackfast we were Visited by the
Old Chief of the Big Bellies or me ne tar res, this Man has Given his
power to his Son who is now on a war party against the Snake Indians who
inhabit the Rockey Mountains, the S W wind verry high — we met in
Council under an orning and our Sales Stretched round to keep out as much
wind as possible & Delivered a long Speach Similar to what had been
Said to the nations below, the old Chief was restless before the Speech
was half ended, observed his Camp was exposed & could wait no longer
&c. at the Conclusion of the Speach we mentioned the Ricaras &
requested them to make a peace & Smoke out of the Sacred Stem with
their Chief which I intreduced and gave him the pipe of peace to hand
around, they all Smoked with eagerness out of the pipe held by the Ricara
Chief Ar-ke-tar-na-Shar we mentioned our hands that were to be discharged
here, also the roberrey commited on th 2 french men below, & requested
them to answere us tomorrow, gave the Chief Small preasents and a fiew
presents for each village Shot the air gun which both Surprised and
astonished the nativs, and Soon dispersed
our Ricara Chief Came told me he wished to return to his nation tomorrow I
put him off & Said we would Send a talk by him after the Chiefs had
Spoken to us — we gave a Steel mill to the mandans which was verry
pleasing to them
The Chief who recved Medals to Day are as follows viz-in Council
-
Mandan village Ma-too-ton-kai's Chief Sha-ha-ka Big White
-
2nd
Ka-goh-ha-me little Crows
-
2 do village Roop tar-hee
-
1's & grand Chief Poss-cop-sa-he Black Cat
-
2d Chief Car-gar-no-mok-she raven man Chief
-
Mah har-ha village
-
Chief Ta-tuck-co pin re has, white Buffalow Skin unfolded
-
Little Menetarre village
-
Chief Omp-Se-ha-ra Black mockerson.
-
2d Chief Oh-hark little Fox.
The Grand village of Manetarres, The One Eye is the principal Chief and he
is out on a hunting party. we Send by the Grape all the articles for this
grand Chief and all the Village what goods was intended for that Village — The
Prarie got on fire and went with Such Violenc & Speed as to Catch a
man & woman & burn them to Death, Several escapd. among other a
Small boy who was Saved by getting under a green Buffalow Skin, this boy
was half white, & the Indians Say all white flesh is medisan, they Say
the grass was not burnt where the boy Sat &c. &. this fire passed
us at 8 oClock, and lookd truly tremendious.
[Clark, October 29, 1804]
29th October Monday 1804 a fair fine morning after Brackfast we were
visited by the old Cheaf of the Big bellies or ____ this man was old and
had transfered his power to his Sun, who was then out at war against the
Snake Indians who inhabit the rockey mountains — at 10 oClock the S W.
wind rose verry high, we Collected the Chiefs and Commened a Council
ounder a Orning and our Sales Stretched around to Keep out as much wind as
possible, we delivered a long Speech the Substance of which Similer to
what we had Delivered to the nations below. the old Chief of the
Grossanters was verry restless before the Speech was half ended observed
that he Could not wait long that his Camp was exposed to the hostile
Indians, &c. &. he was rebuked by one of the Chiefs for his
uneasiness at Such a time as the present, we at the end of the Speech
mentioned the Ricare who Accompanied us to make a firm peace, they all
Smoked with him (I gave this Cheaf a Dollar of the American Coin as a
Meadel with which he was much pleased) In Councel we prosented him with a
Certificate of his Sincrrity and good Conduct &c. we also Spoke about
the fur which was taken from 2 french men by a Mandan, and informd of our
intentions of Sending back the french hands — after the Council we
gave the presents with much Seremoney, and put the Meadels on the Cheifs
we intended to make viz. one for each Town to whome we gave Coats hats
& flags, one Grand Cheif to each nation to whome we gave meadels with
the presidents likeness in Councel we requested them to give us an answer
tomorrow or as Soon as possible to Some points which required their
Deliberation- after the Council was over we Shot the Air gun which
appeared to assonish the nativs much, the greater part them retired Soon
after
The Ricare Cheaf Ar-ke-tar-na-shar Came to me this evening and tells me
that he wishes to return to his Village & nation, I put him off Saying
tomorrow we would have an answer, to our talk to the Satisfaction &
Send by him a String of wompom informing what had passed here. a Iron or
Steel Corn Mill which we gave to the Mandins, was verry Thankfully recived — (rte
The Prarie was Set on fire (or Cought by accident) by a young man of the
Mandins, the fire went with Such velocity that it burnt to death a man and
woman, who Could not Get to any place of Safty, one man a woman &
Child much burnt and Several narrowly escaped the flame — a boy half
white was Saved un hurt in the midst of the flaim, Those ignerent people
Say this boy was Saved by the great Spirit medisin because he was white — The
Cause of his being Saved was a Green buffalow Skin was thrown over him by
his mother who perhaps had more fore Sight for the pertection of her Son,
and less for herself than those who escaped the flame, the Fire did not
burn under the Skin leaving the grass round the boy This fire passed our
Camp last about 8 oClock P.M. it went with great rapitidity and looked
Tremendious
The following Chiefs were made in Councel to day
Mar-too-ton-ha or Lower Village of the Mandans 1st Cheif Sha-ha-ka or Big
White 2 do Ka-goh-ha-mi or Little raven
Roop-tar-hee or Second Village of the Mandans 1st and Grand
Cheif-Pass-cop-sa-he or black Cat 2nd Cheif Car-gar-no-mok-She raven man
Cheaf
Mah-har-ha 3rd Village Chief Ta-tuck-co-pin-re-ha (white Buffalow robe
unfolded)
Me-ne-tar-re Me-te har-tar 1st Cheif-Omp-se-ha-ra. Black Mockersons 2 do.
Oh-harh or Little fox
we Sent the presents intended for the Grand Chief of the Mi-ne-tar-re or
Big Belley, and the presents flag and wompoms by the Old Chief and those,
and those intended for the Cheif of the Lower Village by a young Cheif
The following Cheifs were recommended in addition to those Viz.
1st Village Oh-hee-nar Big Man — a Chien Sho-ta-har ro-ra
2d Village Taw nish-e-o — Bel-lar sa ra Ar-rat-ta na-mock-She — Wolf
Man Chief
3rd Village Min-nis-Sur-ra-ree (Neighing horse) Lo-tong-gar-ti har — old
woman at a distance
4th Village Mar-noh-tah the big Steeler Man-se-rus-se — tale of
Callumet bird
5th Village Ad hako ho pin nee Little Wolfs medisons Ar-rat-toe-no mook-gu
(man wolf Chief) (at war) Cal-tar co ta — (Cherry grows on a bush) old
Chief and father to the above mentd. Chief Maw-pah'-pir-re-cos-sa too — This
chief is near this hunting and a verry Considerable man
To the 1st Chiefs we gave a medal with the Imp. of the President of the U
S. To the 2d Chiefs a medal of weaveing & Domestic animals. To the 3rd
Chiefs a medal with the impression of a man Sowing wheat.
4th Village 1 Ea pa no pa — Two taled Calumet bird young Chief 2 War
he ras sa the red Shield young Chief of Big belley-big town
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
30th of October Tuesday 1804 many Indian Chief visit us today I went in th
Perogou to the Island 7 miles above to look out a proper place for to
winter, it being near the tim the ice begins to run at this place, and the
Countrey after a few leagues high is Said to be barron of timber, I found
no place Soutable, & we concluded to drop down to th next point below
& build a fort to winter in the Party Danced which Delited the
Indians.
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
30th October Tuesday 1804 Two Chiefs came to have Some talk one the
princapal of the lower Village the other the one who thought himself the
principal mane, & requested to hear Some of the Speech that was
Delivered yesterday they were gratified, and we put the medal on the neck
of the Big White to whome we had Sent Clothes yesterday & a flag,
those men did not return from hunting in time to join the Counell, they
were well pleased (2d of those is a Chien) I took 8 men in a Small perogue
and went up the river as far as the 1st Island about 7 miles to See if a
Situation Could be got on it for our Winter quarters, found the wood on
the Isd. as also on the pt. above So Distant from the water that, I did
not think that we Could get a good wintering ground there, and as all the
white men here informed us that wood was Sceres, as well as game above, we
Deturmined to drop down a fiew miles near wood and game on my return found
maney Inds. at our Camp, gave the party a dram, they Danced as is verry
Comn. in the evening which pleased the Savages much. Wind S. E
[Clark, October 30, 1804]
Mandans
Ka gar no mogh ge the 2d Chief of the 2d Village of Mandins Came the 30t
of Octr. and Spoke to us as follows. Viz
Will you be So good as to go to the Village the Grand Chief will Speek
& give Some Corn, if you will let Some men take bags it will be well.
I am going with, the Chief of the ricares to Smoke a pipe with that nation — I
concluded to go down
Mockerson Indians
The principal Chief of the Wau to Soon Came and Spoke a fiew words on
Various Subjects not much to the purpose. we Smoked and after my Shooting
the air gun he departed, Those nations know nothing of reagular Councils,
and know not how to proceed in them, they are restless &c-
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
31st of October Wednesday 1804 The main Chief of the mandans Sent 2 Cheifs
for to envite us to Come to his Lodge, and here what he has to Say I with
2 interpetes walked down, and with great Cerimony was Seated on a Robe by
the Side of the Chief; he threw a Robe highly decoraterd over my Sholders,
and after Smokeing a pipe with the old men in the Circle, the Chief Spoke
he belived all we had told him, and that peace would be genl. which not
only gave himself Satisfaction but all his people; they now Could hunt
without fear & their women could work in the fields without looking
every moment for the ememey, as to the Ricaras addressing himself to the
Chief with me you know we do not wish war with your nation, you have
brought it on your Selves, that man Pointing to the 2d Chief and those 2
young warriers will go with you & Smoke in the pipes of peace with the
Ricaras — I will let you see my father addressing me that we wish to
be at peace with all and do not make war upon any — he continud to
Speak in this Stile (refer to notes) he delivered 2 of the Traps to me
which was taken from the french men, gave me 2 bushels of Corn, I answered
the Speech which appeared to give general Satisfactionand returned to the
boat, In the evening the Chief Visited us Dressed in his new Suit, &delayed
untill late the men Dancd untill 10 oClock which was common with them
wrote to the N W Copanys agent on the Ossinniboin River by a Mr.
McCruckin.
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
31st of October Wednesday 1804 a fine morning, the Chief of the Mandans
Sent a 2d Chief to invite us to his Lodge to recive Some Corn & here
what he had to Say I walked down and with great ceremoney was Seeted on a
roab by the Side of the Chief, he threw a handsom Roabe over me and after
smokeing the pipe with Several old men arround, the Chief Spoke Said he
believed what we had told them, and that peace would be general, which not
only gave him Satisfaction but all his people, they now Could hunt without
fear, & ther womin Could work in the fields without looking everry
moment for the Enemey, and put off their mockersons at night, as to the
Reares we will Show you that we wish peace with all, and do not make war
on any without Cause, that Chief pointing to the 2d and Some brave men
will accompy. the Ricare Chief now with you to his village & nation,
to Smoke with that people, when you Came up the Indians in the
neighbouring Villages, as well as those out hunting when they heard of you
had great expectations of reciving presents they those hunting imediately
on hearing returned to the Village and all was Disapointed, and Some
Dessatisfied, as to himself he was not much So but his Village was — he
would go and See his great father &c. &c.
he had put before me 2 of the Steel traps which was robed from the french
a Short tim ago. about 12 bushels of Corn which was brought and put before
me by the womin of the Village after the Chief finished & Smoked in
great cerrimony, I answered the Speech which Satisfied them verry much and
returned to the boat. met the princapal Chief of the 3d Village and the
Little Crow both of which I invited into the Cabin and Smoked & talked
with for about one hour. Soon after those Chiefs left us the Grand Chief
of the Mandans Came Dressed in the Clothes we had given with his 2 Small
Suns, and requested to See the men Dance which they verry readily
gratified him in, — the wind blew hard all the after part of the day
from the N E and Continud all night to blow hard from that point, in the
mornig it Shifed N W. Capt Lewis wrote to the N W Companys agent on the
Orsineboine River abt. North of this place
[Clark, October 31, 1804]
black Cat or Pose-cop-sa-he 1st Chief of the Mandans & 2d Village
"I believe what you have told us in Council, & that peace will be
general, which not only givs me pleasure, but Satisfaction to all the
nation, they now Can hunt without fear, and our womin Can work in the
fields without looking every moment for the enimey-" as to the Ricares we
will Show you that we wish piace with all, and do not make war on any with
out Cause, that Chief pointing to the 2d of the Village and Some young men
will accompany the Ricrea Chief home to his Nation to Smoke with that
people — When the Indians of the Different Villages heard of your
Comeing up they all Came in from hunting to See, they expected Great
presents. they were disapointed, and Some dissatisfied- as to my Self I am
not much So, but my Village are — he believed the roade was open; and
he would go and See his great father — he Delivered Up 2 Traps which
had been taken from the french, & gave me a roabe & about 12
bushels of Corn — & smoked &c
I answered the Speech it explained, many parts which he Could not
understand-of the Speech of yesterday.
[Lewis, October 31, 1804]
Wednesday October 31st 1804. The river being very low and the season so
far advanced that it frequently shuts up with ice in this climate we
determined to spend the Winter in this neighbourhood, accordingly Capt.
Clark with a party of men reconnoitred the countrey for some miles above
our encampment; he returned in the evening without having succeed in
finding an eligible situation for our purpose.
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
1 November 1804 Visited by Several Chiefs of the lower Village who
requested we would call on them &c. Spoke to the Same purpote with the
Grand Chief. we Set out in the evening & I with the Party droped down
to the place we intended to winter & Cap Lewis called at the Village 3
miles above &. &.
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
1st of November Thursday 1804 the wind hard from the N W. Mr. McCrackin a
Trader Set out at 7 oClock to the fort on the Ossiniboin by him Send a
letter, (incloseing a Copy of the British Ministers protection) to the
principal agent of the Company — at about 10 OClock the Cheifs of the
Lower Village Cam and after a Short time informed us they wished they
would us to call at their village & take Some Corn, that they would
make peace with the Ricares they never made war against them but after the
rees Killed their Chiefs they killed them like the birds, and were tired
and would Send a Chief and Some brave men to the Ricares to Smoke with
that people in the evening we Set out and fell down to the lower Village
where Capt. Lewis got out and continud at the Village untill after night I
proceeded on & landed on the S. S. at the upper point of the 1st
Timber on the Starboard Side after landing & Continuinge — all
night droped down to a proper place to build Capt Lewis Came down after
night, and informed me he intended to return the next morning by the
perticular Request of the Chiefs.
We passed the Villages on our Decent in veiw of Great numbers of the
inhabitents
[Clark, November 1, 1804]
The 1st of Novr. Mandins is Village the Main Chief Big White & 2
others i e the Big Man or Sha-ha-ca and ____ Came early to talk, and Spoke
as follows, after Smoking, Viz.
Is it Certain that the ricares intend to make good with us our wish is to
be at peace with all, we will Send a Chief with the pania Chief and Some
young men to Smoke and make good peace-? are you going to Stay abov or
below this Cold. — answer by C. L We are going down a few miles to
look a place we can find no place abov proper.
The panias know's we do not begin the war, they allway begin, we Sent a
Chief and a pipe to the Pania to Smoke and they killed them-, we have
killed enough of them we kill them like the birds, we do not wish to kill
more, we will, make a good peace
We were Sorry when we heard of your going up but now you are going down,
we are glad, if we eat you Shall eat, if we Starve you must Starve also,
our village is too far to bring the Corn to you, but we hope you will Call
on us as you pass to the place you intend to Stop
C L answered the above-
[Lewis, November 1, 1804]
Thursday November 1st 1804 The wind blew so violently during the greater
part of this day that we were unable to quit our encampment; in the
evening it abated; — we droped down about seven miles and land on N.
E. side of the river at a large point of Woodland.
[Clark, November 2, 1804]
2nd Novr. 1804 Friday — Capt Lewis returned to the Village & I
fixed on a place for to build a fort and Set to work Cap Lewis returned in
the eveng with 11 bushels of Corn, the Ricarre Chief Set out for his
Village accompanied by Several mandans
[Clark, November 2, 1804]
2nd November Friday 1804 This morning at Day light I went down the river
with 4 men to look for a proper place to winter proceeded down the river
three miles & found a place well Supld. with wood, & returned,
Capt. Lewis went to the village to here what they had to Say & I fell
down, and formed a camp near where a Small Camp of Indian were huntig Cut
down the Trees around our Camp, in the evening Capt. Lewis returned with a
present of 11 bushels of Corn, our recaree Chief Set out acccompanied by
one Chief and Several Brave men, he Called for Some Small article which we
had given but as I could not understand him he Could not get. the wind
from the S. E. a fine day — many Indians to day
[Lewis, November 2, 1804]
Friday November 2nd 1804" This morning early we fixed on the site for our
fortification which we immediately set about.
This place we have named Fort Mandan in honour of our Neighbours.
[Clark, November 3, 1804]
3rd of November Satturday 1804 wind hard from the west Commence building
our Cabins, Dispatched 6 hunters in a perogue Down the River to hunt,
Discharged the french hands, Mr. Jessomme his Squar & child moved to
camp, the little Crow loaded his Squar with meat for us also a Roabe, we
gave the Squar an ax & &. Cought 2 bever near Camp
[Clark, November 3, 1804]
3rd of November Satterday 1804 a fine morning wind hard from the West we
commence building our Cabins, Send Down in Perogue 6 men to hunt Engaged
one man, Set the french who intend to return to build a perogue, many
Indians pass to hunt, Mr. Jessomme with his Squar & Children. come
Down to live, as Interpter, we recive a hors for our Sirvice, in the
evening the Ka goh ha mi or little ravin Came & brought us on his
Squar about 60 Wt. of Dried Buffalow meat a roabe, & Pot of Meal &.
they Delayed all night- we gave his Squar an ax & a fiew Small
articles & himself a piece of Tobacco, the Men were indulged with a
Dram, this evening two Beaver Cought This morning — and one Trap Lost
[Clark, November 4, 1804]
4th of Novr. a french man by Name Chabonah, who Speaks the Big Belley
language visit us, he wished to hire & informed us his 2 Squars were
Snake Indians, we engau him to go on with us and take one of his wives to
interpet the Snake language The Indians Horses & Dogs live in the Same
Lodge with themselves
[Clark, November 4, 1804]
4th November Sunday 1804 Fort Mandan a fine morning we Continued to Cut
Down trees and raise our houses, a Mr. Chaubonee, interpeter for the Gross
Vintre nation Came to See us, and informed that he came Down with Several
Indians from a Hunting expedition up the river, to here what we had told
the Indians in Councl this man wished to hire as an interpeter, the wind
rose this evining from the East & Clouded up — Great numbers of
Indians pass hunting and Some on the return-
[Clark, November 5, 1804]
5th November Monday 1804 I rose verry early and commenced raising the 2
range of Huts the timber large and heavy all to Carry on Hand Sticks,
Cotton wood & Elm Som ash Small, our Situation Sandy, great numbers of
Indians pass to and from hunting a Camp of Mandans, A fiew miles below us
Cought within two days 100 Goat, by Driveing them in a Strong pen,
derected by a Bush fence widening from the pen &c. &. the Greater
part of this day Cloudy, wind moderate from the N. W. I have the Rhumitism
verry bad, Cap Lewis writeing all Day — we are told by our interpeter
that 4 Ossiniboin Indians, have arrived at the Camps of the Gross Venters
& 50 Lodges are Comeing
[Clark, November 6, 1804]
6th of Nov. Mr. Gravolin our Ricara Interpreter & 2 of our french
hands & 2 boys Set out in a Canoe for the Ricaras Mr. ravellin is to
accompany the Ricaras Chiefs to the City of Washington in the Spring,
Great numbers of Geese pass to the South which is a certain approach of
ice
[Clark, November 6, 1804]
6th November Tuesday 1804 Fort Mandan last night late we wer awoke by the
Sergeant of the Guard to See a nothern light, which was light, not red,
and appeared to Darken and Some times nearly obscered, and open, many
times appeared in light Streeks, and at other times a great Space light
& containing floating Collomns which appeared opposite each other
& retreat leaveing the lighter Space at no time of the Same appearence
This morning I rose a Day light the Clouds to the North appeared black at
8 oClock the wind begun to blow hard from the N W. and Cold, and Continud
all Day Mr. Jo Gravilin our ricare interpeter Paul premor, Lajuness &
2 french Boys, who Came with us, Set out in a Small perogue, on their
return to the ricaree nation & the Illinois, Mr. Gravilin has
instructions to take on the recarees in the Spring &c. — Continue
to build the huts, out of Cotton Timber, &c. this being the only
timber we have.
[Clark, November 7, 1804]
7th November Wednesday 1804 a termperate day we continued to building our
hut, Cloudy and fogging all day
[Clark, November 8, 1804]
8th Novr. Thursday 1804 a Cloudy morning Jussome our interpreter went to
the Village, on his return he informed us that three English men had
arrived from the Hudsons Bay Company, and would be here tomorrow, we
Contd. to build our huts, many Indians Come to See us and bring their
horses to Grass near us
[Clark, November 9, 1804]
9th Novr. Friday 1804 a verry hard frost this morning we Continue to build
our Cabens, under many disadvantages, Day Cloudy wind from the N W.
Several Indians pass with flying news, we got a White weasel, (Taile
excepted which was black at the end) of an Indian Capt Lewis walked to the
hill abt. 3/4 of a mile — we are Situated in a point of the Missouri
North Side in a Cotton wood Timber, this Timber is tall and heavy
Containing an imence quantity of water Brickle & Soft food for Horses
to winter (as is Said by the Indians) The Mandans Graze their horses in
the day on Grass, and at night give them a Stick of Cotton wood to eate,
Horses Dogs & people all pass the night in the Same Lodge or round
House, Covd. with earth with a fire in the middle
great number of wild gees pass to the South, flew verry high
[Clark, November 10, 1804]
10th November Satturday 1804 rose early continued to build our fort
numbers of Indians Came to See us a Chief Half Partia & brought a Side
of a Buffalow, in return We Gave Some fiew small things to himself &
wife & Son, he Crossed the river in the Buffalow Skin Canoo & and,
the Squar took the Boat and proceeded on to the Town 3 miles the Day raw
and Cold wind from the N W, the Gees Continue to pass in gangues as also
brant to the South, Some Ducks also pass
[Clark, November 11, 1804]
11th November Sunday 1804 Fort Mandan a Cold Day Continued at work at the
Fort Two men Cut themselves with an ax, The large Ducks pass to the South
an Indian gave me Several roles of parched meal two Squars of the Rock
Mountain, purchased from the Indians by a frenchmen Came down The Mandans
out hunting the Buffalow
[Clark, November 12, 1804]
12th November Monday 1804 a verry Cold night early this morning the Big
White princapal Chief of the lower Village of the Mandans Came Down, he
packd about 100 W. of fine meet on his Squar for us, we made Some Small
presents to the Squar, & Child gave a Small ax which She was much
pleased — 3 men Sick with the ____ Several, Wind Changeable verry cold
evening, freesing all day Some ice on the edges of the river.
Swans passing to the South, the Hunters we Sent down the river to hunt has
not returned
The interpeter Says that the Mandan nation as they old men Say Came out of
a Small lake where they had Gardins, maney years ago they lived in Several
Villages on the Missourie low down, the Smallpox destroyed the greater
part of the nation and reduced them to one large Village and Some Small
ones, all nations before this maladey was affrd. of them after they were
reduced the Sioux and other Indians waged war, and killed a great maney,
and they moved up the Missourie, those Indians Still continued to wage
war, and they moved Still higher, untill they got in the Countrey of the
Panias, whith this ntn. they lived in friendship maney years, inhabiting
the Same neighbourhood untill that people waged war, They moved up near
the watersoons & winataree where they now live in peace with those
nations, the mandans Specke a language peculial to themselves
they can rase about 350 men, the Winatarees about 80 and the Big bellies
about 600 or 650 men. the mandans and Seauex have the Same word for
water-The Big bellies Winitarees & ravin Indians Speake nearly the
Same language and the presumption is they were origionally the Same nation
The Ravin Indians have 400 Lodges & about 1200 men, & follow the
Buffalow, or hunt for their Subsistance in the plains & on the Court
not & Rock Mountains, & are at war with the Sioux Snake Indians
The Big bellies & Watersoons are at war with the Snake Indians &
Seauex, and were at war with the Ricares untill we made peace a fiew days
passd. — The Mandans are at War with all who make war on them, at
present with the Seauex only, and wish to be at peace with all nations,
Seldom the agressors-
[Clark, November 13, 1804]
13th The Ice begin to run we move into our hut, visited by the Grand Chief
of the Mandans, and Che chark Lagru a Chief of the Assinniboins & 7
men of that Nation, I Smoke with them and gave the Chief a Cord & a
Carrot of Tobacco — this Nation rove in the Plains above this and
trade with the British Companes on the Ossinniboin River, they are Divided
into Several bands, the decendants of the Sioux & Speak nearly their
langguage a bad disposed Set & Can raies about moo men in the 3 bands
near this place, they trade with the nations of this neighbourhood for
horses Corn & Snow all Day Capt. L. at the village.
[Clark, November 13, 1804]
13th Novr. Tuesday 1804 The Ice began to run in the river 1/2 past 10
oClock P. M we rose early & onloaded the boat before brackfast except,
the Cabin, & Stored away in a Store house — at 10 oClock A M the
Black Cat the Mandin Chief and Lagru Che Chark Chief & 7 men of note
visited us at Fort Mandan, I gave him a twist of Tobacco to Smoke with his
people & a Gold Cord with a view to Know him again, The nation
Consists of about 600 men, hunt in the Plains & winter and trade on
the Ossiniboin River, they are Decendants of the Siaux and Speake their
language, they Come to the nations to this quarter to trade or (make
preasthts) for horses the method of this Kind of Trafick by addoption
Shall be explained hereafter &, Snow'd all day, the Ice ran thick and
air Cold.
[Clark, November 14, 1804]
Fort Mandan 14th of November Wednesday 1804 a Cloudy morning, ice runing
verry thick river rose 1/2 Inch last night Some Snow falling, only two
Indians visit us to day Owing to a Dance at the Village last night in
Concluding a Serimoney of adoption, and interchange of property, between
the Ossiniboins, Christinoes and the nations of this neighbourhood — we
Sent one man by land on hors back to know the reason of the Delay of our
hunters, this evening 2 french men who were traping below Came up-with 20
beaver we are compelled to use our Pork which we doe Spearingly for fear
of Some falur in precureing a Sufficiency from the Woods.
our Interpeter informs that 70 Lodges one of 3 bands of Assinniboins &
Some Crestinoes, are at the Mandan Village. The Crrirstinoes are abt. 300
men Speak the Chipaway-Language, the live near Fort De peare
[Clark, November 15, 1804]
15th of November Thursday 1804 a Cloudy morning, the ice run much thicker
than yesterday at 10 oClock G Drewyer & the frenchman we Dispatched
yesterday came up from the Hunters, who is incamped about 30 miles below — after
a about one hour we Dispatched a man with orders to the hunters to proceed
on without Delay thro the floating ice, we Sent by the man Tin, to put on
the parts of the Perogue exposed to the ice & a toe roape — The
wind Changeable — all hands work at their huts untill 1 oClock at
night Swans passing to the South — but fiew fowls water to be Seen — not
one Indian Came to our fort to day
[Clark, November 16, 1804]
16th November Friday 1804 a verry white frost all the trees all Covered
with ice, Cloudy, all the men move into the huts which is not finishd
Several Indians Come to Camp to day, The Ossiniboins is at the Big bellie
Camp, Some trouble like to take place between them from the loss of horses
&c. as is Said by an old Indian who visited us with 4 buffalow robes
& Corn to trade for a pistol which we did not let him have, men
imployed untill late in dobing their huts, Some horses Sent down to Stay
in the woods near the fort, to prevent the Ossniboins Steeling them
[Clark, November 17, 1804]
17 th November Satturday 1804 a fine morning, last night was Cold, the ice
thicker than yesterday, Several Indians visit us, one Chief Stayed all day
we are much engaged about our huts.
[Clark, November 18, 1804]
18th Novr. Sunday 1804 a Cold morning Some wind the Black Cat, Chief of
the Mandans Came to See us, he made Great inquiries respecting our
fashions. he also Stated the Situation of their nation, he mentioned that
a Council had been held the day before and it was thought advisable to put
up with the resent insults of the Ossiniboins & Christonoes untill
they were Convinced that what had been told thim by us, Mr. Evins had
deceived them & we might also, he promised to return & furnish
them with guns & amunitiion, we advised them to remain at peace &
that they might depend upon Getting Supplies through the Channel of the
Missouri, but it requred time to put the trade in opperation. The
Assiniboins &c have the trade of those nations in their power and
treat them badly as the Soux does the Ricarees and they cannot resent for
fear of loseing their trade &.
[Clark, November 19, 1804]
19th of November 1804 our hunters return with 32 Deerr, 12 Elk & a
Buffalow Ice ran which detained the huntes much Cap lewis visit the Me ne
tar rees, the 25th and returned the 27th of Nov. with 2 Chiefs &c.
&c. and told me that 2 Clerks & 5 men of the N W Company &
Several of the hudsons Bay Company had arrived with goods to trade with
the Indians a Mr. La Roche & Mc Kinzey are the Celerks (Distant 150
Miles across)
[Clark, November 19, 1804]
19th Novr. Monday a Cold day the ice Continue to run our Perogue of
Hunters arrive with 32 Deer, 12 Elk & a Buffalow, all of this meat we
had hung up in a Smoke house, a timeley supply — Several Indians here
all day — the wind bley hard from the N. W. by W. our men move into
their huts, Several little Indian aneckdts. told me to day
[Clark, November 20, 1804]
20th November Tuesday 1804 Capt Lewis & my Self move into our huts, a
verry hard wind from the W. all the after part of the day a temperate day
Several Indians Came Down to Eat fresh meat, three Chiefs from the 2d
Mandan Village Stay all Day, they are verry Curious in examining our
works. Those Chiefs informs us that the Souix settled on the Missourie
above Dog River, threten to attacked them this winter, and have treated 2
Ricares who Carried the pipe of peace to them Verry roughly. whiped &
took their horses from them &c. &c. & is much displeased with
Ricares for makeing a peace with the Mandans &. &. through us,
&. we gave them a Sattisfactory answer. &c. &c.
[Clark, November 21, 1804]
21st Novr. Wednesday a fine Day dispatched a perogu and Collected Stone
for our Chimnys, Some wind from the S. W. arrange our different articles — maney
Indians visit us to day, G D hurd his hand verry bad- all the party in
high Spirits — The river Clear of ice, & riseing a little
[Clark, November 22, 1804]
22nd of November Thursday 1804 a fine morning Dispatched a perogue and 5
Men under the Derection of Sergeant Pryor to the 2nd Village for 100
bushels of Corn in ears which Mr. Jessomme, let us have did not get more
than 80 bushels — I was allarmed about 10 oClock by the Sentinal, who
informed that an Indian was about to Kill his wife in the interpeters fire
about 60 yards below the works, I went down and Spoke to the fellow about
the rash act which he was like to commit and forbid any act of the kind
near the fort- Some missunderstanding took place between this man &
his wife about 8 days ago, and She came to this place, & Continued
with the Squars of the interpeters, 2 days ago She returned to the Villg.
in the evening of the Same day She came to the interpeters fire
appearently much beat, & Stabed in 3 places — We Detected that no
man of this party have any intercourse with this woman under the penelty
of Punishment — he the Husband observed that one of our Serjeants
Slept with his wife & if he wanted her he would give her to him, We
derected the Serjeant Odway to give the man Some articles, at which time I
told the Indian that I believed not one man of the party had touched his
wife except the one he had given the use of her for a nite, in his own
bed, no man of the party Should touch his Squar, or the wife of any
Indian, nor did I believe they touch a woman if they knew her to be the
wife of another man, and advised him to take his Squar home and live
hapily together in future, — at this time the Grand Chief of the
nation arrived, & lecturd him, and they both went off apparently dis
The grand Chief continued all day a warm Day fair afternoon — many
Indian anickdotes one Chief & his familey Stay all night.
[Clark, November 23, 1804]
23rd, a fair warm Day, wind from the S. E. Send after Stone Several men
with bad Colds, one man Sheilds with the Rhumitism the river on a Stand
haveing rose 4 Inches in all
[Clark, November 24, 1804]
24th of November Satturday 1804 a warm Day Several men with bad Coalds we
continue to Cover our Huts with hewed punchens, finishd. a Cord to draw
our boat out on the bank, this is made 9 Straps of Elk Skin, — the
wind from the S. E.
[Clark, November 25, 1804]
25th of Novr. Sunday 1804 a fine day warm & pleasent Capt. Lewis 2
Interpeters & 6 men Set out to See the Indians in the different Towns
& Camps in this neighbour hood, we Continu to Cover & dob our
huts, two Chiefs Came to See me to day one named Wau-ke-res-sa-ra, a Big
belley and the first of that nation who has visited us Since we have been
here, I gave him a Handkerchef Paint & a Saw band, and the other Some
fiew articles, and paid a perticular attention which pleased them verry
much, the interpeters being all with Capt. Lewis I could not talk to them.
we Compleated our huts — Several men with bad Colds, river fall 11/2
inch
[Clark, November 26, 1804]
26th of Novr. 1804 Monday Fort Mandan a little before day light the wind
shifted to the N. W. and blew hard and the air Keen & Cold all day,
Cloudy and much the appearance of Snow; but little work done to day it
being Cold &c.
[Clark, November 27, 1804]
27th of November Tuesday 1804 a cloudy morning after a verry Cold night,
the River Crouded with floating ice wind from the N W. finished Dobing
Capt. Lewis returned from the Villages with two Chiefs Mar-noh toh &
Man-nes-sur ree & a Considerate man with the party who accompanied
him, The Menitares, (or Big bellies) were allarmed at the tales told them
by the Mandans Viz: that we intended to join the Seaux to Cut off them in
the Course of the winter, many Circumstances Combind to give force to
those reports i e the movements of the interpeters & their families to
the Fort, the strength of our work &. &.
all those reports was contridicted by Capt Louis with a Conviction on the
minds of the Indians of the falsity of those reports — the Indians in
all the towns & Camps treated Capt Lewis & the party with Great
respect except one of the principal Cheifs Mar par pa par ra pas a too or
(Horned Weasel) who did not Chuse to be Seen by the Capt. & left word
that he was not at home &.
Seven Traders arrived from the fort on the Ossinaboin from the N W
Companey one of which Lafrances took upon himself to speak unfavourably of
our intentions &. the princpal Mr. La Rock, (& Mr. McKensey) was
informed of the Conduct of their interpeter & the Consiquinces if they
did not put a Stop to unfavourable & ill founded assursions &c.
&.
The two Chiefs much pleased with their treatments & the Cherefullness
of the party, who Danced to amuse them &c. &c.
The river fall 2 Inches verry Cold and began to Snow at 8 oClock P M and
Continued all night — Some miss understanding with Jussomm & his
woman — at Day the Snow Seased
[Clark, November 28, 1804]
28th Novr. Wednesday 1804 a cold morning wind from the N. W river full of
floating ice, began to Snow at 7 oClock a m and continued all day at 8
oClock the Poss-cop-so-he or Black Cat Grand Chief of the Mandans Came to
See us, after Showing Those Chiefs many thing which was Curiossities to
them, and Giveing a fiew presents of Curioes Handkerchiefs arm bans &
paint with a twist of Tobaco they departed at 1 oClock much pleased, at
parting we had Some little talk on the Subject of the British Trader Mr.
Le rock Giveing Meadils & Flags, and told those Chiefs to impress it
on the minds of their nations that those Simbells were not to be recved by
any from them, without they wished incur the displieasure of their Great
American Father — a verry disagreeable day — no work done to day
river fall 1 Inch to day
[Clark, November 29, 1804]
29th November Thursday 1804 A verry Cold windey day wind from the N. W by
W. Some Snow last night the Detpt of the Snow is various in the wood about
13 inches, The river Closed at the Village above and fell last night two
feet Mr. La Rock and one of his men Came to visit us we informed him what
we had herd of his intentions of makeing Chiefs &c. and forbid him to
give meadels or flags to the Indians, he Denied haveing any Such
intention, we agreeed that one of our interpeters Should Speak for him on
Conditions he did not Say any thing more than what tended to trade alone — he
gave fair promises &.
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30h of Nov. an Indian Chief Came and informed us that five Men of the
Mandans Nation was on a hunting party to the S W, distance about Eight
Leagues, they were Surprised one man Killed two wounded and nine horses
taken, Severale others men wer on hunting partes & were to have
returned Several days ago & had not yet returned, & that they
expected to be attacked by an army of Sioux I took 23 men and went to the
Village deturmined to Collect the warriers of the Different Villages and
meet the Sioux — The village not expecting Such Strong aid in So Short
a time was a little alarmed of the formable appearance of my party The
principal Chiefs met me at 200 yards Distance from the Town, and envited
me to his Lodge. I told the Nation the Cause of Comeing &. was to
assist in Chastiseing the enimies of my Dutifull Children — I
requested great Chief to repeat the Cercunstance of the Sioux attack as it
realy happined which he did — I told them to Send runners to the other
villages & assemble the warriers & we Would go and Chastize the
Sioux for Spilling the Blood of my Dutifull Children — after a
Conversation of a few minits amongst themselves, a Chief Said that they
now Saw that what we had told them was the trooth and we were ready to
protect them and Kill those who did not listen to our Councils (and after
a long Speech) he concluded Said "the Sious who Spilt our Blood is gorn
home — The Snow is deep and it is Cold, our horses Cannot Travel thro
the plains in pursute — If you will go and conduct us in the Spring
after the Snow is gorn, we will assemble all the warriers & Brave men
in all the villages and go with you." I answered the Speach at Some
length, explained to them their Situation declareing our intentions of
Defending them at any time dureing the time we Should Stay in ther
nieghbourhood, explained the Situation of the Ricaras & told them not
to get angrey with them untill they were Certain of their haveing violated
the treaty &c. &. I crossed the River on the Ice and returned to
the fort
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30th in the morning early a Indian Came to the river opposit &
requsted to be brought over, that he had Some thing to Say from his nation
we Sent for him, and after he had Smoked — he Said he thought the
river was frosted across here & expected to Cross on the ice
7 or 8 Mandans out hunting in a S. W, Derection from this place about 8
Leagues, after they had made their hunt and on their return was attackted
by a large Party of Seaux, one of the party a young Chief was Killed 2
wounded & 9 horses taken, the men who made their escape Say the one
half of the party who attacked them was Panias-
The two Panias who Came here a fiew days ago was imediately Sent home, for
fear of their being put to death by the party Defeated
Two of the attacting party was Known to be Panies. The man who was killed
mentioned that after he was wounded, that he had been at war & been
wounded, "this day I shall die like a man before my Enimies,! tell my
father that I died bravely, and do not greive for me-"
4 of the Big bellies who were Camped near thos is missing, and Searching
for him in their Camps above — no one Dare to go to the ground where
the battle was for fear of the Sioux being noumerous-.
[Clark, November 30, 1804]
30th of November Friday 1804 This morning at 8 oClock an Indian Calld from
the other Side and informed that he had Something of Consequence to
Communicate. we Sent a perogue for him & he informed us as follows.
Viz: "five men of the Mandan Nation out hunting in a S. W. derection about
Eight Leagues was Suprised by a large party of Sceoux & Panies, one
man was Killed and two wounded with arrows & 9 Horses taken, 4 of the
We ter Soon nation was missing, & they expected to be attacked by the
Souix &c. &." we thought it well to Show a Disposition to ade and
assist them against their enimies, perticularly those who Came in
oppersition to our Councils, and I Deturmined to go to the town with Some
men, and if the Sceoux were comeing to attact the nation to Collect the
worriers from each Village and meet them, thos Ideas were also those of
Capt Lewis, I crossed the river in about an hour after the arrival of the
Indian express with 23 men including the interpeters and flankd the Town
& came up on the back part The Indians not expecting to receive Such
Strong aide in So Short a time was much Supprised, and a littled allarmed
at the formadable appearance of my party — The principal Chiefs met me
Some Distance from the town (Say 200 yards) and invited me in to town, I
ord my pty into dft. lodges & I explained to the nation the cause of
my comeing in this formadable manner to their Town, was to asst and
Chastise the enimies of our Dutifull Children, — I requested the Grand
Cheif to repeat the Circumstancies as they hapined which he did as was
mentioned by the Express in the morning — I then informed them that if
they would assemble their warrers and those of the different Towns I would
to meet the Army of Souix & Chastise thim for takeing the blood of our
dutifull Children &c. after a conversation of a fiew minits anongst
themselves, one Chief the Big Man Cien Said they now Saw that what we hade
told them was the trooth, whin we expected the enimies of their Nation was
Comeing to attact them, or had spilt their blood were ready to protect
them, and Kill those who would not listen to our Good talk — his
people had listened to what we had told them and Cearlessly went out to
hunt in Small parties believing themselves to be Safe from the other
Nations — and have been killed by the Panies & Seauex. "I knew
Said he that the Panies were Tiers, and told the old Chief who Came with
you (to Confirm a piece with us) that his people were hers and bad men and
that we killed them like the Buffalow, when we pleased, we had made peace
Several times and you Nation have always Commened the war, we do not want
to Kill you, and will not Suffer you to Kill us or Steal our horses, we
will make peace with you as our two fathers have derected, and they Shall
See that we will not be the Ogressors, but we fear the Ricares will not be
at peace-long — My father those are the words I Spoke to the Ricare in
Your presents — you See they have not opened their ears to your good
"Councils but have Spuilt our blood. two Ricarees whome we Sent home this
day for fear of our peoples Killing them in their greaf-informed us when
they Came here Several days ago, that two Towns of the Ricares were
makeing their Mockersons, and that we had best take care of Our horses
& a number of Sieuex were in their Towns, and they believed not well
disposed towards us — four of the Wetersoons are now absent they were
to have been back in 16 days they have been out 24 we fear they have
fallen. my father the Snow is deep and it is cold our horses Cannot travel
thro the the plains, — those people who have Spilt our blood have gorn
back? if you will go with us in the Spring after the Snow goes off we will
raise the Warriers of all the Towns & nations around about us, and go
with you."
I told this nation that we Should be always willing and ready to defend
them from the insults of any nation who would dare to Come to doe them
injurey dureing the time we would remain in their neighbourhood, and
requstd. that they would inform us of any party who may at any time be
discovered by their Patroles or Scouts.
I was Sorry that the Snow in the Plains had fallen So Deep Sence the
Murder of the young Chief by the Scioux as prevented, their horses from
traveling I wished to meet those Scioux & all others who will not open
their ears, but make war on our dutifull Children, and let you See that
the Wariers of your great father will Chastize the enimies of his dutifull
Children the Mandans, wetersoons & Winitarees, who have opend. their
ears to his advice — you Say that the Panies or Ricares were with the
Sciaux, Some bad men may have been with the Sciaux you know there is bad
men in all nations, do not get mad with the racarees untill we know if
those bad men are Counternoncd. by their nation, and we are Convsd. those
people do not intend to follow our Councils — you know that the Sceaux
have great influence over the ricarees and perhaps have led Some of them
astray — you know that the Ricarees, are Dependant on the Sceaux for
their guns, powder, & Ball, and it was policy in them to keep on as
good terms as possible with the Siaux untill they had Some other means of
getting those articles &c. &. you know your Selves that you are
Compelled to put up with little insults from the Christinoes &
Ossinaboins (or Stone Inds.) because if you go to war with those people,
they will provent the traders in the north from bringing you Guns Powder
& Ball and by that means distress you verry much, but whin you will
have Certain Suppliers from your Great American father of all those
articls you will not Suffer any nation to insult you &c. after about
two hours conversation on various Subjects all of which tended towards
their Situation &c. I informed them I Should return to the fort, the
Chief Said they all thanked me verry much for the fatherly protection
which I Showed towards them, that the Village had been Crying all the
night and day for the death of the brave young man, who fell but now they
would wipe away their tears, and rejoice in their fathers protection-and
Cry no more
I then Paraded & Crossed the river on the ice and Came down on the N.
Side the Snow So deep, it was verry fatigueing arrved at the fort after
night, gave a little Taffee, a Cold night the river rise to its former
hite — The Chief frequently thanked me for Comeing to protect them — and
the whole Village appeared thankfull for that measure
[Clark, December 1, 1804]
1s Decr. a young Chief arrived
7 Chiens Came to the Village with a pipe & the 3 Ricares who Came here
a fiew days ago & Sent off yesterday have returned and Say that the
Sieaux & ricares are Camped together
[Clark, December 1, 1804]
1st of December Satturday 1804 wind from the N W. all hands ingaged in
pitting pickets &. at 10 oClock the half brother of the man who was
killed Came and informd. us that after my departure last night Six Chiens
So Called by the french Shar ha Indians had arrived with a pipe and Said
that The mandans apprehended danger from the Shar has as they were at
peace with the Seaux; and wished to Kill them and the Ricarees (or
Parties) but the Cheifs informed the nation "it was our wish that they
Should not be hurt, and forbid being Killed &c." we gave a little
Tobacco &c. & this man Departed well Satisfied with our councils
and advice to him in the evening a Mr. G Henderson in the imploy of the
hudsons bay Company Sent to trade with the Gros ventre-or big bellies So
Called by the french traders
[Clark, December 2, 1804]
2d of Decr. 1804 Visited by Several Mandan Chiefs and 4 Chyannes Inds. who
Came with a pipe to the Mandans, Sent a Speech to ther Nation a flag &
Some tobacco, also written a Speech to the Ricaras & Sioux, informe
them what they might depend on if they would not open their ears, &
&.
[Clark, December 2, 1804]
2nd of December Sunday 1804 The latter part of last night was verry warm
and Continued to thaw untill ____ oClock when the wind Shifted to the
North at 11 oClock the Chiefs of the Lower village of the Mandans with
maney of theire young men and 4 of the Shar-ha's who had come to Smoke
with the pipe of Peace with the Mandans, we explained to them our
intentions our views and advised them to be at peace, Gave them a flag for
theire nation, Some Tobacco with a Speech to Deliver to their nation on
theire return, also Sent by them a letter to Mrs. Tabbo & Gravoline,
at the Ricares Village, to interseid in proventing Hostilities, and if
they Could not effect those measures to Send & informe us of what was
going on, Stateing to the Indians the part we intend to take if the
Rickores & Seauex did not follow our Derections and be at peace with
the nations which we had addopted — We made Some fiew Small presents
to those Shar ha's and also Some to the Mandans & at 3 oClock they all
Departed well pleased, haveing Seen many Curisossties, which we Showed
them-. river rise one inch
[Clark, December 3, 1804]
3rd December Monday 1804. a fine morning the after part of the day Cold
& windey the wind from the N W. The Father of the Mandan who was
killed Came and made us a present of Some Dried Simnens & a little
pemicon, we made him Some Small preasents for which he was much pleased
[Clark, December 4, 1804]
4th of December Tuesday 1804 a Cloudy raw Day wind from the N. W. the
Black Cat and two young Chiefs Visit us and as usial Stay all Day the
river rise one inch finish the main bastion, our interpetr. we discover to
be assumeing and discontent'd
[Clark, December 5, 1804]
5th December Wednesday 1804 a Cold raw morning wind from the S. E. Some
Snow, two of the N W. Companey Came to See us, to let us Know they
intended to Set out for the establishment on the osinniboin River in two
Days-& their party would Consist of 5 men, Several Indians also
visited us one brought Pumpkins or Simmins as a preasent a little Snow
fell in the evening at which time the wind Shifted round to N. E.
[Clark, December 6, 1804]
Fort Mandan 6th of December Thursday 1804 The wind blew violently hard
from the N, N W. with Some Snow the air Keen and Cold. The Thermometer at
8 oClock A, M, Stood at 10 dgs. above o — at 9 oClock a man & his
Squar Came down with Some meat for the inturpeter his dress was a par
mockersons of Buffalow Skin Pr. Legins of Goat Skin & a Buffalow robe,
14 ring of Brass on his fingers, this metel the Mandans ar verry fond off — Cold
after noon river rise 11/2 Inch to day
[Clark, December 7, 1804]
at Fort mandan 7th of December 1804, we were informed by a Chief that
great numbers of Buffalow were on the hills near us Cap Lewis with a party
went out & Killed 11three in view of our fort, The weather so excesive
Cold & wolves plenty, we only saved 5 of them, I with a party turned
on the 8th out and found the Buffalow at 7 ms. distant Killed 8 & a
Deer, I returned with 2 Cows leaving men with remaining meat — Several
men badly frost bit — The Themormeter Stood this morning at 44 d.
below Breizing.
Capt Lewis went out 9th & Stayed all night out Killed 9 buffalowmaney
of the Buffalow Killed were So meager that they not fit for use Collected
by the ade of Some horses the best of the meat in fact all we could Save
from wolves & I went on a hunting party the 14 & 15 of Decr. — much
Snow verry cold 52° below freesinge. N W. & H Bay Clerks Visit us the
16th also Mr Hainey, Cold Tem. 74° below freesing
I visit the Mandans on the 1s of January Capt Lewis the 2nd
[Clark, December 7, 1804]
7th of December Friday 1804 a verry Cold day wind from the N W. the Big
White Grand Chief of the 1s Village, Came and informed us that a large
Drove of Buffalow was near and his people was wating for us to join them
in a Chase Capt. Lewis took 15 men & went out joined the Indians, who
were at the time he got up, Killing the Buffalows on Horseback with arrows
which they done with great dexterity, his party killed 14 Buffalow, five
of which we got to the fort by the assistance of a horse in addition to
what the men Packed on their backs — one Cow was killed on the ice
after drawing her out of a vacancey in the ice in which She had fallen,
and Butchered her at the fort — those we did not get in was taken by
the indians under a Custon which is established amongst them i e. any
person Seeing a buffalow lying without an arrow Sticking in him, or Some
purticular mark takes possesion, many times (as I am told) a hunter who
Kills maney Buffalow in a chase only Gets a part of one, all meat which is
left out all night falls to the Wolves which are in great numbers, always
in the Buffalows — the river Closed opposit the fort last night 11/2
inches thick The Thermometer Stood this morning at 1 d. below o- three men
frost bit badly to day
[Clark, December 8, 1804]
8th December Satturday 1804 a verry Cold morning, the Thermometer Stood at
12 d. below 0 which is 42 d. below the freesing point, wind from the N W I
with 15 men turned out Indians joined us on horseback, shot with arrows
rode along side of buffaloel and killed 8 buffalow & one Deer, one Cow
and Calf was brought in, two Cows which I killed at 7 miles Dst. I left 2
men to Skin & Keep off the wolves, and brought in one Cow & a
calf, in the evening on my return to the fort Saw great numbers of
Buffalow Comeing into the Bottoms on both Sides of the river This day
being Cold Several men returned a little frost bit; one of men with his
feet badly frost bit my Servents feet also frosted & his P-s a little,
I feel a little fatigued haveing run after the Buffalow all day in Snow
many Places 10 inches Deep, Generally 6 or 8, two men hurt their hips
verry much in Slipping down — The Indians kill great numbers of
Buffalow to day — 2 reflectings Suns to day
[Clark, December 9, 1804]
9th December Sunday 1804 The Thermometer Stood this morning at 7° above 0,
wind from the E. Capt Lewis took 18 men & 4 horses and went out Send
in the meet killed yesterday and kill more, the Sun Shown to day Clear,
both interpeters went to the Villages to day at 12 oClock two Chiefs Came
loaded with meat one with a dog & Slay also loaded with meat, Capt.
Lewis Sent in 4 Hors's loaded with meat, he continued at the hunting Camp
near which they killed 9 buffalow.
[Clark, December 10, 1804]
10th Monday Decr. 1804 Fort Mandan a verry Cold Day The Thermometer to day
at 10 & 11 Degrees below 0., Capt. Lewis returned, to day at 12 oClock
leaveing 6 men at the Camp to prepare the meat for to pack 4 Horse loads
Came in, Capt Lewis had a Cold Disagreeable night last in the Snow on a
Cold point with one Small Blankett the Buffaloe Crossed the river below in
emence herds without brakeing in. only 2 buffalow killed to day one of
which was too pore to Skin, The men which was frost bit is gitting better.
the rise 11/2 inch wind North
[Clark, December 11, 1804]
11th December Tuesday 1804 a verry Cold morning Wind from the north The
Thermomettr at (4 oClock A M at 21°) Sunrise at 21° See list. below 0
which is 53° below the freesing point and getting colder, the Sun Shows
and reflects two imigies, the ice floating in the atmespear being So thick
that the appearance is like a fog Despurceing
Sent out three horses for meat & with Derections for all the hunters
to return to the fort as Soon as possible at 1 oClock the horses returned
loaded at night all the hunters returned, Several a little frosted, The
Black Cat Chief of the Mandans paid us a Visit to day continue Cold all
day river at a Stand
[Clark, December 12, 1804]
12th December Wednesday 1804 a Clear Cold morning wind from the north the
Thormometer at Sun rise Stood at 38° below 0, moderated untill 6 oClock at
which time it began to get Colder. I line my Gloves and have a cap made of
the Skin of the Louservia (Lynx) (or wild Cat of the North) the fur near 3
inches long a Indian Of the Shoe nation Came with the half of a Cabra ko
ka or Antilope which he killed near the Fort, Great numbers of those
animnals are near our fort but the weather is So Cold that we do not think
it prudent to turn out to hunt in Such Cold weather, or at least untill
our Consts. are prepared to under go this Climate. I measure the river
from bank to bank on the ice and make it 500 yards
[Clark, December 13, 1804]
13th December Thursday 1804 The last night was verry Clear & the frost
which fell Covered the ice old Snow & thos parts which was naked 1/6
of an inch, The Thermotr. Stands this morning at 20° below 0, a fine day.
find it imposible to make an Observation with an artifical Horsison Joseph
Fields kill a Cow and Calf to day one mile from the fort river falls
[Clark, December 14, 1804]
14th December Friday 1804 a fine morning. wind from the S. E. the
murckerey Stood at '0' this morning I went with a party of men down the
river 18 miles to hunt Buffalow, Saw two Bulls too pore to kill, the Cows
and large gangues haveing left the River, we only killed two Deer &
Camped all night with Some expectation of Seeing the Buffalow in the
morning, a verry Cold night, Snowed.
[Clark, December 15, 1804]
15th of December 1804 Satturday a Cold Clear morning, Saw no buffalow, I
concluded to return to the Fort & hunt on each Side of the river on
our return which we did without Success — the Snow fell 11/2 inches
deep last night. wind North- on my return to the fort found Several Chiefs
there
[Clark, December 16, 1804]
Fort Mandan 16th December, Sunday 1804 a clear Cold morning, the Thermtr.
at Sun rise Stood at 22° below 0, a verry Singaler appearance of the Moon
last night, as She appeared thro The frosty atmispear — Mr. Henny,
from the Establishment on River Ossinnniboin, with a letter from, Mr
Charles Chaboillez one of the Cos arrived in 6 Days, Mr. C in his letters
expressed a great anxiety to Serve us in any thing in his power-
a root Discribed by Mr. Henry for the Cure of a Mad Dog
Mr. Le rock a Clerk, of the N W Company and Mr. George Bunch a Clerk of
the Hudsons bay Compy accompanied Mr. Henny from the Village
[Clark, December 17, 1804]
17th December Monday 1804 a verry Cold morning the Thrmt. Stood a 43°
below 0. We found Mr. Henny a verry intelligent man from whome we obtained
Some Scetches of the Countrey between the Mississippi & Missouri, and
Some Sketches from him, which he had obtained from the Indins. to the West
of this place also the names and charecktors of the Sceoux &c about 8
oClock P M. the thermometer fell to 74° below the freesing pointe — the
Indian Chiefs Sent word that Buffalow was in our neighbourhood, and if we
would join them, in the morning they would go and kill them-
[Clark, December 18, 1804]
18th December Tuesday 1804 The Themometer the Same as last night Mr. Haney
& La Rocke left us for the Grossventre Camp, Sent out 7 men to hunt
for the Buffalow They found the weather too cold & returned, Several
Indians Came, who had Set out with a veiw to Kill buffalow, The river rise
a little I imploy my Self makeing a Small map of Connection &. Sent
Jessomme to the Main Chief of the mandans to know the Cause of his
detaining or takeing a horse of Chabonoe our big belly interpeter, which
we found was thro the rascallity of one Lafrance a trader from the N W.
Company, who told this Cheif that Chabonah owd. him a horse to go and take
him he done So agreeable to an indian Custom — he gave up the horse
[Clark, December 19, 1804]
19th December Wednesday 1804 The wind from S. W. the weather moderated a
little, I engage my self in Connecting the Countrey from information.
river rise a little
[Clark, December 20, 1804]
20th December Thursday 1804 The wind from the N W a moderate day, the
Thermometr 37° above 0, which givs an oppertunity of putting up our
pickets next the river, nothing remarkable took place to Day river fall a
little
[Clark, December 21, 1804]
21st December Friday 1804 a fine Day worm and wind from the N W by W, the
Indian whome I stoped from Commiting murder on his wife, thro jellousy of
one of our interpeters, Came & brought his two wives and Showed great
anxiety to make up with the man with whome his joulassey Sprung — a
womin brought a Child with an abcess on the lower part of the back, and
offered as much corn as She Could carry for Some medison, Capt Lewis
administered &c.
[Clark, December 22, 1804]
22nd December Satturday 1804 a number of Squars womn & men Dressed in
Squars Clothes Came with Corn to Sell to the men for little things, we
precured two horns of the animale the french Call the rock mountain Sheep
those horns are not of the largest kind — The mandans Indians Call
this Sheep Ar-Sar-ta it is about the Size of a large Deer, or Small Elk,
its Horns Come out and wind around the head like the horn of a Ram and the
teckere not unlike it much larger and thicker perticelarly that part with
which they but or outer part which is ____ inchs thick, the length of
those horns, which we have is
[Clark, December 23, 1804]
23rd December Sunday 1804 a fine Day great numbers of indians of all
discriptions Came to the fort many of them bringing Corn to trade, the
little Crow, loadd. his wife & Sun with corn for us, Cap. Lewis gave
him a few presents as also his wife, She made a Kettle of boild Simnins,
beens, Corn & Choke Cherris with the Stones which was paletable
This Dish is Considered, as a treat among those people, The Chiefs of the
Mandans are fond of Stayin & Sleeping in the fort
[Clark, December 24, 1804]
24 December Monday 1804 Several Chiefs and members of men womin and
Children at the fort to day, Some for trade, the most as lookers on, we
gave a fellet of Sheep Skin (which we brought for Spunging) to 3 Chiefs
one to each of 2 inches wide, which they lay great value (priseing those
felets equal to a fine horse), a fine Day we finished the pickingen around
our works
[Clark, December 25, 1804]
25th December Christmass Tuesday I was awakened before Day by a discharge
of 3 platoons from the Party and the french, the men merrily Disposed, I
give them all a little Taffia and permited 3 Cannon fired, at raising Our
flag, Some men went out to hunt & the Others to Danceing and Continued
untill 9 oClock P, M, when the frolick ended &c.
[Clark, December 26, 1804]
26th Decr. Wednesday 1804 a temperate day no Indians to day or yesterday.
A man from the N W Company Came Down from the Gross Vintres to Get one of
our interpeters to assist them in trade This man informed that the Party
of Gross Ventres who persued the Ossinboins that Stold their horses, has
all returned in their usial way by Small parties, the last of the party
bringing 8 horses which they Stole from a Camp of Asniboins which they
found on Mouse river-
[Clark, December 27, 1804]
27th December 1804 Thursday a little fine Snow weather something Colder
than yesterday Several Indians here to Day, much Surprised at the Bellos
& method of makeing Sundery articles of Iron wind hard from the N W.
[Clark, December 28, 1804]
28th of December Friday 1804 blew verry hard last night, the frost fell
like a Shower of Snow, nothing remarkable to day, the Snow Drifting from
one bottom to another and from the leavel plains into the hollows &c
[Clark, December 29, 1804]
29th December Satturday 1804 The frost fell last night nearly a 1/4 of an
inch Deep and Continud to fall untill the Sun was of Some bite, the
Murcurey Stood this morning at 9 d below 0 which is not considered Cold,
as the Changes take place gradually without long intermitions
a number of Indians here
[Clark, December 30, 1804]
30th December Sunday 1804 Cold the Termtr. at 20 d below 0 a number of
Indians here to day they are much Supprised at the Bellows one Deer Killed
[Clark, December 31, 1804]
Fort Mandan 31st of December Monday 1804 a fine Day Some wind last night
which mixed the Snow and Sand in the bend of the river, which has the
appearance of hillocks of Sand on the ice, which is also Covered with Sand
& Snow, the feost which falls in the night continues on the earth
& old Snow &c. &c. — a Number of indians here every Day
our blckSmitth mending their axes hoes &c. &c. for which the
Squars bring Corn for payment
[Clark, January 1, 1805]
Fort Mandan on the N E bank of the Missouries 1600 miles up January the
1st 1805 Tuesday The Day was ushered in by the Discharge of two Cannon, we
Suffered 16 men with their musick to visit the 1st Village for the purpose
of Danceing, by as they Said the perticular request of the Chiefs of that
village, about 11 oClock I with an inturpeter & two men walked up to
the Village (my views were to alay Some little miss understanding which
had taken place thro jelloucy and mortificatiion as to our treatment
towards them) I found them much pleased at the Danceing of our men, I
ordered my black Servent to Dance which amused the Croud verry much, and
Some what astonished them, that So large a man Should be active &c.
&.
I went into the lodges of all the men of note except two, whome I heard
had made Some expressions not favourable towards us, in Compareing us with
the trabers from the north — Those Cheifs observed what they Sayed was
in just & lafture. — just as I was about to return the 2d Chief
and the Black man, also a Chief returnd from a mission on which they had
been Sent to meet a large party 150 of Gross Ventres who were on their way
down from their Camps 10 Miles above to revenge on the Shoe tribe an
injurey which they had received by a Shoe man Steeling a Gross Venters
Girl, those Chiefs gave the pipe turned the party back, after Delivering
up the girl, which the Shoe Chief had taken and given to them for that
purpose. I returned in the evening, at night the party except 6 returned,
with 3 robes, an 13 Strings of Corn which the indians had given them, The
Day was worm, Themtr. 34° abov 0, Some fiew Drops of rain about Sunset, at
Dark it began to Snow, and Snowed the greater part of the night, (the
temptr for Snow is about o) The Black Cat with his family visited us to
day and brought a little meet
[Clark, January 2, 1805]
2nd of January Wednesdey 1805 a Snowey morning a party of men go to Dance
at the 2nd Village to Dance, Capt Lewis & the interptr visit the 2d
Village, and return in the evening, Some Snow to Day verry Cold in the
evining
[Clark, January 3, 1805]
3rd of January Thursday 1805 Soome Snow to day; 8 men go to hunt the
buffalow, killed a hare & wolf Several Indians visit us to day & a
Gross Ventre came after his wife, who had been much abused, & come
here for Protection.
[Clark, January 4, 1805]
Fort Mandan 4th of January Friday 1805 a worm Snowey morning, the Themtr.
at 28° abov 0, Cloudy, Sent out 3 men to hunt down the river, Several
Indians Came today the little Crow, who has proved friendly Came we gave
him a handkerchf & 2 files, in the evening the weather became cold and
windey, wind from the N W. I am verry unwell the after part of the Daye
[Clark, January 5, 1805]
5th of January Satturday 1805 a cold day Some Snow, Several Indians visit
us with thier axes to get them mended, I imploy my Self drawing a
Connection of the Countrey from what information I have recved — a
Buffalow Dance (or Medison) for 3 nights passed in the 1st Village, a
curious Custom the old men arrange themselves in a circle & after
Smoke a pipe, which is handed them by a young man, Dress up for the
purpose, the young men who have their wives back of the circle go to one
of the old men with a whining tone and request the old man to take his
wife (who presents necked except a robe) and — the Girl then takes the
Old man (who verry often can Scercely walk) and leades him to a Convenient
place for the business, after which they return to the lodge, if the Old
man (or a white man) returns to the lodge without gratifying the man &
his wife, he offers her again and again; it is often the Case that after
the 2d time without Kissing the Husband throws a nice robe over the old
man & and begs him not to dispise him, & his wife (we Sent a man
to this Medisan last night, they gave him 4 Girls) all this is to cause
the buffalow to Come near So that They may kill thim 2
[Clark, January 6, 1805]
6th of January Sunday 1805
a Cold day but fiew indians to day I am ingaged as yesterday
[Clark, January 7, 1805]
7th of January Monday 1805 Fort Mandan a verry Cold clear Day, the Themtr
Stood at 22 d below 0 wind N W., the river fell 1 inch Several indians
returned from hunting, one of them the Big White Chef of the Lower Mandan
Village, Dined With us, and gave me a Scetch of the Countrey as far as the
high mountains, & on the South Side of the River Rejone, he Says that
the river rejone recves 6 Small rivers on the S. Side, & that the
Countrey is verry hilley and the greater part Covered with timber, Great
numbers of beaver &c. — the 3 men returned from hunting, they
kill'd 4 Deer & 2 wolves, Saw Buffalow a long ways off, I continue to
Draw a connected plote from the information of Traders, Indians & my
own observation & idea — from the best information, the Great
falls is about 800 miles nearly west,-
[Clark, January 8, 1805]
8th of January Tuesday 1805 a Cold Day but fiew indians at the fort to day
wind from the N, W, one man at the Village
[Clark, January 9, 1805]
9th of January Wednesday 1805 A Cold Day Themometer at 21° below 0, Great
numbers of indians go to Kill Cows, the little Crow Brackft. with us,
Several Indians Call at the Fort nearly frosed, one man reported that he
had Sent his Son a Small boy to the fort about 3 oClock, & was much
distressed at not finding him here, the after part of this day verry Cold,
and wind Keen
[Clark, January 10, 1805]
10th Of January 1805 This morning a boy of 13 years of age Came to the
fort with his feet frozed, haveing Stayed out all night without fire, with
no other Covering than a Small Robe goat skin leagens & a pr. Buffalow
Skin mockersons — The Murcery Stood at 72° below the freesing point — Several
others Stayed out all night not in the least hurt, This boy lost his Toes
only-
[Clark, January 10, 1805]
10th of January Thursday 1805 last night was excessively Cold the murkery
this morning Stood at 40° below 0 which is 72° below the freesing point,
we had one man out last night, who returned about 8 oClock this morning
The Indians of the lower Villages turned out to hunt for a man & a boy
who had not returnd from the hunt of yesterday, and borrowd a Slay to
bring them in expecting to find them frosed to death about 10 oclock the
boy about 13 years of age Came to the fort with his feet frosed and had
layen out last night without fire with only a Buffalow Robe to Cover him,
the Dress which he wore was a pr of Cabra Legins, which is verry thin and
mockersons — we had his feet put in Cold water and they are Comeing
too- Soon after the arrival of the Boy, a man Came in who had also Stayed
out without fire, and verry thinly Clothed, this man was not the least
injured Customs & the habits of those people has ancered to bare more
Cold than I thought it possible for man to indure
Send out 3 men to hunt Elk below about 7 miles
[Clark, January 11, 1805]
11th January Friday 1805 verry Cold, Send out 3 men to join 3 now below
& hunt,
Pose-cop se ha or Black Cat came to See us and Stay all night
Sho sa har ro ra or Coal also Stayd all night, the inturpeter oldst wife
Sick, Some of our men go to See a war medison made at the village on the
opposit Side of the river, this is a
[Clark, January 12, 1805]
Fort Manden 12th of January Satturday 1805 a verry Cold Day three of our
hunters J. & R Fields withe 2 Elk on a Slay Sent one more hunter out.
[Clark, January 13, 1805]
13th of January Sunday (1805) a Cold Clear Day (great number of Indians
move Down the River to hunt) those people Kill a number of Buffalow near
their Villages and Save a great perpotion of the meat, their Custom of
makeing this article of life General leaves them more than half of their
time without meat Their Corn & Beans &c they Keep for the Summer,
and as a reserve in Case of an attack from the Soues, which they are
always in dread, and Sildom go far to hunt except in large parties, about
1/2 the Mandan nation passed this to day to hunt on the river below, they
will Stay out Some Days, Mr. Chabonee (our inturpeter) and one man that
accompanied him to Some loges of the Minatarees near the Turtle Hill
returned, both frosed in their faces.
Chaboneu informs that the Clerk of the Hudsons Bay Co. with the Me ne tar
res has been Speaking Some fiew expressns. unfavourable towards us, and
that it is Said the N W Co. intends building a fort at the Mene tar re's — he
Saw the Grand Chief of the Big bellies who Spoke Slightly of the
Americans, Saying if we would give our great flag to him he would Come to
See us.
[Clark, January 14, 1805]
14th of January 1805 Monday This morning early a number of indians men
womin children Dogs &c & passed down on the ice to joine those
that passed yesterday, we Sent Sergt Pryor and five men with those indians
to hunt one of our hunters Sent out Several days arived & informs that
one Man (Whitehouse) is frost bit and Can't walk home-
[Clark, January 15, 1805]
Fort Mandan 15th January Tuesday 1805 between 12 & 3 oClock this
morning we had a total eclips of the moon, a part of the observations
necessary for our purpose in this eclips we got which is at 12h 57m 54s
Total Darkness of the moon @ 1 44 00 End of total Darkness of This moon @
2 39 10 End of the eclips-
This morning not So Cold as yesterday wind from the S. E. wind choped
around to the N W. Still temperate four Considerate men of the Minetarre
Came to See us we Smoked in the pipe, maney mands. present also, we Showed
to those men who had been impressed with an unfavourable oppinion of us.
[Clark, January 16, 1805]
16th January Wednesday 1805 about thirty Mandans Came to the fort to day,
6 Chiefs. Those Me ne to rees told them they were liars, had told them if
they came to the fort the whites men would kill them, they had been with
them all night, Smoked in the pipe and have been treated well and the
whites had danced for them, observing the Mandans were bad and ought to
hide themselves- one of the 1st War Chiefs of the big belles nation Came
to See us to day with one man and his Squar to wate on him we Shot the Air
gun, and gave two Shots with the Cannon which pleased them verry much, the
little Crow 2d Chf of the lower village came & brought us Corn &.
4 men of ours who had been hunting returned one frost'd
This war Chief gave us a Chart in his way of the Missourie, he informed us
of his intentions of going to war in the Spring against the Snake Indians
we advised him to look back at the number of nations who had been
distroyed by war, and reflect upon what he was about to do, observing if
he wished the hapiness of his nation, he would be at peace with all, by
that by being at peace and haveing plenty of goods amongst them & a
free intercourse with those defenceless nations, they would get on easy
terms a great Number of horses, and that nation would increas, if he went
to war against those Defenceless people, he would displease his great
father, and he would not receive that pertection & Care from him as
other nations who listened to his word — This Chief who is a young man
26 yr. old replied that if his going to war against the Snake indians
would be displeasing to us he would not go, he had horses enough.
we observed that what we had Said was the words of his Great father, and
what we had Spoken to all the nations which we Saw on our passage up, they
all promis to open their ears and we do not know as yet if any of them has
Shut them (we are doubtfull of the Souxs) if they do not attend to what we
have told them their great father will open their ears — This Cheif
Said that he would advise all his nation to Stay at home untill we Saw the
Snake Indians & Knew if they would be friendly, he himself would
attend to what we had told him
[Clark, January 17, 1805]
17th January Thursday 1805 a verry windey morning hard from the North
Thermometer at 0, Several Indians here to day
[Clark, January 18, 1805]
18th January Friday 1805 a fine worm morning, Mr. La Rock & McKinzey
Came down to See us with them Several of the Grosse Venrees.
[Clark, January 19, 1805]
19th January Satturday 1805. a find Day Messrs. Larock & McKinzey
returned home, Sent three horses down to our hunting Camp for the meet
they had killed, Jussoms Squar, left him and went to the Village
[Clark, January 20, 1805]
20th a Cold fair day Several Indians at the fort to day a miss
understanding took place between the two inturpeters on account of their
Squars, one of the Squars of Shabownes Squars being Sick, I ordered my
Servent to, give her Some froot Stewed and tee at dift Tims which was the
Cause of the misundstd
[Clark, January 21, 1805]
Fort Mandan 21st Monday January 1805 a number of Indians hereto day a fine
day nothing remarkable one ban verry bad with the pox
[Clark, January 22, 1805]
22nd January 1805 Tuesday a find warm Day attempted to Cut the Boat &
the perogues out of the Ice, found water at about 8 inches under the 1st
Ice, the next thickness about 3 feet
[Clark, January 23, 1805]
23rd January 1805 Wednesday a Cold Day Snow fell 4 Inches deep, the
occurrences of this day is as is common
[Clark, January 24, 1805]
24th January Thursday 1805 a fine day, our inturpeters appear to
understand each others better than a fiew days past Sent out Several
hunters, they returned without killing any thing, Cut Coal wood
[Clark, January 25, 1805]
25th of January 1805 Friday we are informed of the arrival of a Band of
Asniboins at the Villages with the Grand Cheif of those Tribes call the
(Fee de petite veau) to trade, one of our interpeter & one man Set out
to the Big Belley Camp opposit the Island men employ'd in Cutting the Boat
out of the ice, and Collecting Coal wood.
[Clark, January 26, 1805]
26th of January Satturday 1805 a verry fine warm Day Several Indians Dine
with us and are much Pleased — one man taken violently Bad with the
Plurisee, Bleed & apply those remedeis Common to that disorder.
[Lewis, January 26, 1805]
Saturday January 26th 1805 Observed Meridian Altitude of sun's U. L. with
sextant and artificl. Horzn. of water 48° 50 Latitude deduced from this
observatn. N. 47 21 47
[Clark, January 27, 1805]
27th of January Sunday 1804 a fine day, attempt to Cut our Boat and Canoos
out of the Ice, a deficuelt Task I fear as we find waters between the Ice,
I Bleed the man with the Plurisy to day & Swet him, Capt Lewis took of
the Toes of one foot of the Boy who got frost bit Some time ago, Shabonoe
our interpeter returned, & informed that the Assiniboins had returned
to their Camps, & brough 3 horses of Mr. Laroches to Stay here for
fear of their being Stolen by the Assiniboins who are great rogues — Cut
off the boy toes
[Clark, January 28, 1805]
28th January Monday 1805 attempt to cut through the ice &c get our
Boat and Canoo out without Suckcess, Several Indians here wishing to get
war hatchets made this shape the man Sick yesterday is getting well Mr.
Jessome our interpeter was taken verry unwell this evening warm day
[Clark, January 29, 1805]
29th January Tuesday 1805 Gave Jassome a Dost of Salts we Send &
Collect Stones and put them on a large log heap to heet them with a View
of warming water in the Boat and by that means, Sepperate her from the
Ices, our attempt appears to be defeated by the Stones all breaking &
flying to peaces in the fire, a fine warm Day, we are now burning a large
Coal pit, to mend the indians hatchets, & make them war axes, the only
means by which we precure Corn from them
[Clark, January 30, 1805]
30th January Wednesday 1805 a fine morning, Clouded up at 9 oClock, Mr. La
Rocke paid us a Visit, & we gave him an answer respecting the request
he made when last here of accompanying us on our journey &c.
[Clark, January 31, 1805]
31st January Thursday, 1805 Snowed last night, wind high from the N W.
Sawed off the boys toes Sent 5 men down the river to hunt with 2 horses,
our interpeter Something better, George Drewyer taken with the Ploursey
last evening Bled & gave him Some Sage tea, this morning he is much
better — Cold disagreeable
[Clark, February 1, 1805]
1st of February Friday 1805 a cold windey Day our hunters returnd. haveing
killed only one Deer, a war Chief of the Me ne tar ras Came with Some Corn
requested to have a War hatchet made, & requested to be allowed to go
to war against the Souis & Ricarres who had Killed a mandan Some time
past — we refused, and gave reassons, which he verry readily assented
to, and promised to open his ears to all we Said this man is young and
named (Seeing Snake Mar-book, She-ah-O-ke-ah) this mans woman Set out
& he prosued her, in the evening
[Clark, February 2, 1805]
2nd of February Satturday 1805 a find Day one Deer Killed our interpeter
Still unwell, one of the wives of the Big belley interptr taken Sick — Mr.
Larocke leave us to day (this man is a Clerk to the N W Company, &
verry anxious to accompany us)
[Lewis, February 3, 1805]
3rd of February Sunday 1805. a fine day; the blacksmith again commences
his opperations. we were visited by but few of the natives today. the
situation of our boat and perogues is now allarming, they are firmly
inclosed in the Ice and almost covered with snow. The ice which incloses
them lyes in several stratas of unequal thicknesses which are seperated by
streams of water. this peculiarly unfortunate because so soon as we cut
through the first strata of ice the water rushes up and rises as high as
the upper surface of the ice and thus creates such a debth of water as
renders it impracticable to cut away the lower strata which appears firmly
attatched to, and confining the bottom of the vessels. the instruments we
have hitherto used has been the ax only, with which, we have made several
attempts that proved unsuccessful) from the cause above mentioned. we then
determined to attempt freeing them from the ice by means of boiling water
which we purposed heating in the vessels by means of hot stones, but this
expedient proved also fruitless, as every species of stone which we could
procure in the neighbourhood partook so much of the calcarious genus that
they burst into small particles on being exposed to the heat of the fire.
we now determined as the dernier resort to prepare a parse) of Iron spikes
and attatch them to the end of small poles of convenient length and
endeavour by means of them to free the vessels from the ice. we have
already prepared a large rope of Elk-skin and a windless by means of which
we have no doubt of being able to draw the boat on the bank provided we
can free from the ice.
[Clark, February 3, 1805]
3rd of February 1805 our provisions of meat being nearly exorsted I
concluded to Decend the River on the Ice & hunt, I Set out with about
16 men 3 horses & 2 Slays Descended nearly 60 miles Killed &
loaded the horses back, & made 2 pens which we filed with meat, &
returned on the 13th we Killed 40 Deer, 3 Bulls 19 Elk, maney So meager
that they were unfit for use
[Lewis, February 4, 1805]
4th February, Monday 1805. This morning fair tho could the thermometer
stood at 18° below Naught, wind from N. W. Capt Clark set out with a
hunting party consisting of sixteen of our command and two frenchmen who
together with two others, have established a small hut and resided this
winter within the vicinity of Fort Mandane under our protection. visited
by many of the natives today. our stock of meat which we had procured in
the Months of November & December is now nearly exhausted; a supply of
this articles is at this moment peculiarly interesting as well for our
immediate consumption, as that we may have time before the approach of the
warm season to prepare the meat for our voyage in the spring of the year.
Capt. Clark therefore deturmined to continue his rout down the river even
as far as the River bullet unless he should find a plenty of game nearer — The
men transported their baggage on a couple of small wooden Slays drawn by
themselves, and took with them 3 pack horses which we had agreed should be
returned with a load of meat to fort mandane as soon as they could procure
it. no buffaloe have made their appearance in our neighbourhood for some
weeks; and I am informed that our Indian neighbours-suffer extreemly at
this moment for the article of flesh. Shields killed two deer this
evening, both very lean — one a large buck, he had shed his horns.
[Lewis, February 5, 1805]
5th February Tuesday 1805. Pleasent morning wind from N. W. fair; visited
by many of the natives who brought a considerable quanty of corn in
payment for the work which the blacksmith had done for them — they are
pecuarly attatched to a battle ax formed in a very inconvenient manner in
my opinion. it is fabricated of iron only, the blade is extreemly thin,
from 7 to nine inches in length and from 43/4, to 6 Inches on it's edge,
from whence the sides proceed nearly in a straight line to the eye where
it's width is generally not more than an inch. The eye is round &
about one inch in diameter. the handle seldom more than fourteen inches in
length, the whole weighing about one pound — the great length of the
blade of this ax, added to the small size of the handle renders a stroke
uncertain and easily avoided, while the shortness of the handel must
render a blow much less forceable if even well directed, and still more
inconvenient as they uniformly use this instrument in action on horseback.
The oalder fassion is still more inconvenient, it is somewhat in the form
of the blade of an Espantoon but is attatchd to a helve of the dementions
before discribed the blade is sometimes by way of ornament purforated with
two three or more small circular holes — the following is the general
figure it is from 12 to 15 inces in length
[Lewis, February 6, 1805]
6th February Wednesday 1805. Fair morning Wind from N. W. had a sley
prepared against the return of the horses which Capt Clark had promised to
send back as soon as he should be able to procure a load of meat. visited
by many of the natives among others the Big white, the Coal, big-man,
hairy horn and the black man, I smoked with them, after which they
retired, a deportment not common, for they usually pester us with their
good company the ballance of the day after once being introduced to our
apartment. Shields killed three antelopes this evening. the blacksmiths
take a considerable quantity of corn today in payment for their labour.
the blacksmith's have proved a happy resoce to us in our present situation
as I believe it would have been difficult to have devised any other method
to have procured corn from the natives. the Indians are extravegantly fond
of sheet iron of which they form arrow-points and manufacter into
instruments for scraping and dressing their buffaloe robes — I
permited the blacksmith to dispose of a part of a sheet-iron callaboos
which had been nearly birnt out on our passage up the river, and for each
piece about four inches square he obtained from seven to eight gallons of
corn from the natives who appeared extreemly pleased with the exchange-
[Lewis, February 7, 1805]
7th February Thursday 1805. This morning was fair Thermometer at 18° above
naught much warmer than it has been for some days; wind S. E. continue to
be visited by the natives. The Sergt. of the guard reported that the
Indian women (wives to our interpreters) were in the habit of unbaring the
fort gate at any time of night and admitting their Indian visitors, I
therefore directed a lock to be put to the gate and ordered that no Indian
but those attatched to the garrison should be permitted to remain all
night within the fort or admitted during the period which the gate had
been previously ordered to be kept shut which was from sunset untill
sunrise.
[Lewis, February 8, 1805]
8th February Friday 1805. This morning was fair wind S. E. the weather
still warm and pleasent- visited by the black-Cat the principal chief of
the Roop-tar-he, or upper mandane vilage. this man possesses more
integrety, firmness, inteligence and perspicuety of mind than any indian I
have met with in this quarter, and I think with a little management he may
be made a usefull agent in furthering the views of our government. The
black Cat presented me with a bow and apologized for not having completed
the shield he had promised alledging that the weather had been too could
to permit his making it, I gave him som small shot 6 fishing-hooks and 2
yards of ribbon his squaw also presented me with 2 pair of mockersons for
which in return I gave a small lookingglass and a couples of nedles. the
chief dined with me and left me in the evening. he informed me that his
people suffered very much for the article of meat, and that he had not
himself tasted any for several days.
[Lewis, February 9, 1805]
9th February Saturday 1805. The morning fair and pleasent, wind from S. E. — visted
by Mr. McKinzey one the N. W. Company's clerks. this evening a man by the
name of Howard whom I had given permission to go the Mandane vilage
returned after the gate was shut and rether than call to the guard to have
it opened scaled the works an indian who was looking on shortly after
followed his example. I convinced the Indian of the impropryety of his
conduct, and explained to him the riske he had run of being severely
treated, the fellow appeared much allarmed, I gave him a small piece of
tobacco and sent him away Howard I had comitted to the care of the guard
with a determineation to have him tryed by a Courtmartial for this
offence. this man is an old soldier which still hightens this offnce-
[Lewis, February 10, 1805]
10th February Sunday 1805. This Morning was Cloudy after a slight snow
which fell in the course of the night the wind blue very hard from N. W.
altho the thermometer stood at 18° Above naught the violence of the wind
caused a degree of could that was much more unpleasent than that of
yesterday when thermometer stood at 10° only above the same point. Mr.
McKinzey left me this morning. Charbono returned with one of the Frenchmen
and informed that he had left the three Horses and two men with the meat
which Capt. Clark had sent at some distance below on the river — he
told me that the horses were heavy loaded and that not being shod it was
impossible for horses to travel on the ice. I determined to send down some
men with two small slays for the meat and accordingly I gave orders that
they should set out early the next morning. two men were also sent to
conduct the horses by way of the plain.
[Lewis, February 11, 1805]
11th February Monday 1805. The party that were ordered last evening set
out early this morning. the weather was fair and could wind N. W. about
five oclock this evening one of the wives of Charbono was delivered of a
fine boy. it is worthy of remark that this was the first child which this
woman had boarn and as is common in such cases her labour was tedious and
the pain violent; Mr. Jessome informed me that he had freequently
adminstered a small portion of the rattle of the rattle-snake, which he
assured me had never failed to produce the desired effect, that of
hastening the birth of the child; having the rattle of a snake by me I
gave it to him and he administered two rings of it to the woman broken in
small pieces with the fingers and added to a small quantity of water.
Whether this medicine was truly the cause or not I shall not undertake to
determine, but I was informed that she had not taken it more than ten
minutes before she brought forth perhaps this remedy may be worthy of
future experiments, but I must confess that I want faith as to it's
efficacy.
[Lewis, February 12, 1805]
12th February Tuesday 1805. The morning was fair tho could, thermometer at
14° below naught wind S. E. ordered the Blacksmith to shoe the horses and
some others to prepare some gears in order to send them down with three
slays to join the hunting party and transport the meat which they may have
pocured to this place — the the men whom I had sent for the meat left
by Charbono did not return untill 4 OClock this evening. Drewyer arrived
with the horses about the same time, the horses appeared much fatieged I
directed some meal brands given them moisened with a little water but to
my astonishment found that they would not eat it but prefered the bark of
the cotton wood which forms the principall article of food usually given
them by their Indian masters in the winter season; for this purpose they
cause the trees to be felled by their women and the horses feed on the
boughs and bark of their tender branches. the Indians in our neighbourhood
are freequently pilfered of their horses by the Recares, Souixs and
Assinniboins and therefore make it an invariable rule to put their horses
in their lodges at night. in this situation the only food of the horse
consists of a few sticks of the cottonwood from the size of a man's finger
to that of his arm. The Indians are invariably severe riders, and
frequently have occasion for many days together through the whole course
of the day to employ their horses in pursuing the Buffaloe or transporting
meat to their vilages during which time they are seldom suffered to tast
food; at night the Horse returned to his stall where his food is what
seems to me a scanty allowance of wood. under these circumstances it would
seem that their horses could not long exist or at least could not retain
their flesh and strength, but the contrary is the fact, this valuable
anamall under all those disadvantages is seldom seen meager or unfit for
service. — A little after dark this evening Capt. Clark arrived with
the hunting party — since they set out they have killed forty Deer,
three buffaloe bulls, & sixteen Elk, most of them were so meager that
they were unfit for uce, particularly the Buffaloes and male Elk — the
wolves also which are here extreemly numerous heped themselves to a
considerable proportion of the hunt — if an anamal is killed and lyes
only one night exposed to the wolves it is almost invariably devoured by
them.
[Lewis, February 13, 1805]
13th February Wednesday 1805. The morning cloudy thermometer 2° below
naught wind from S. E. visited by the Black-Cat gave him a battle ax with
which he appeared much gratifyed.
[Clark, February 13, 1805]
I returned last night from a hunting party much fatigued, haveing walked
30 miles on the ice and through of wood land Points in which the Snow was
nearly Knee Deep
The 1st day I left the fort proceeded on the ice to new Mandan Island, 22
miles & Camped Killed nothing, & nothing to eat,
The 2d day the morning verry Cold & Windey, I broke thro the ice and
got my feet and legs wet, Sent out 4 hunters thro a point to Kill a Deer
& Cook it by the time the party Should get up, those hunters killed a
Deer & 2 Buffalow Bulls the Buffalow too Meagur to eate, we eate the
Deer & proceeded on to an old Indian Lodge, Sent out the hunters &
they brought in three lean Deer, which we made use of for food, — walking
on uneaven ice has blistered the bottom of my feat, and walking is
painfull to me
3rd day Cold morning the after party of the Day worm, Camped on a Sand
point near the mouth of a Creek on the S W. Side we Call hunting Creek, I
turned out with the hunters, I Killed 2 Deer the hunters killed an Elk,
Buffalow Bull & 5 Deer. all Meager
4th Day hunted the two bottoms near the Camp Killed 9 Elk, 18 Deer,
brought to camp all the meat fit to eate & had the bones taken out.
every man ingaged either in hunting or Collecting & packing the meat
to Camp
5th Day Dispatched one of the party our Interpeter & 2 french men with
the 3 horses loaded with the best of the meat to the fort 44 miles
Distant, the remaining meat I had packed on the 2 Slays & drawn down
to the next point about 3 miles below, at this place I had all the meat
Collected which was killed yesterday & had escaped the wolves, Raven
& Magpie, (which are verry noumerous about this Place) and put into a
close pen made of logs to secure it from the wolves & birds &
proceeded on to a large bottom nearly opposit the Chisscheter (heart)
River, in this bottom we found but little game, Great No. of wolves, on
the hills Saw Several parsels of Buffalow. — Camped. I killed a Buck
6th Day The Buffalow Seen last night provd to be Bulls. lean & unfit
for to make uce of as food, the Distance from Camp being nearly 60 miles,
and the packing of meat that distance attended with much difficuity
deturmined me to return and hunt the points above, we Set out on our
return and halted at an old Indian lodge 40 miles below Fort Mandan Killed
3 Elk & 2 Deer-.
7th Day a cold Day wind blew hard from the N. W. J Fields got one of his
ears frosed deturmined to lay by and hunt today Killed an Elk & 6
deer,* this meat I had Boned & put onto a Close pen made of logs — *all
that was fit for use
8th day air keen halted at the old Camp we Stayed in on the 2d night after
we left the Fort, expecting to meat the horses at this Place, killed 3
Deer, Several men being nearly out of Mockersons & the horses not
returning deturmind me to return to the Fort on tomorrow
9th day. Set out early, Saw great numbers of Grouse feeding on the young
willows, on the Sand bars one mans I sent in persute of a gangue of Elk
killed three near the old Ricara Village and joined at the fort, Sent him
back to Secure the meat one man with him — The ice on the parts of the
River which was verry rough, as I went down, was Smothe on my return, this
is owing to the rise and fall of the water, which takes place every day or
two, and Caused by partial thaws, and obstructions in the passage of the
water thro the Ice, which frequently attaches itself to the bottom. — the
water when riseing forses its way thro the cracks & air holes above
the old ice, & in one night becoms a Smothe Surface of ice 4 to 6
Inchs thick, — the river falls & the ice Sink in places with the
water and attaches itself to the bottom, and when it again rises to its
former hite, frequently leavs a valley of Several feet to Supply with
water to bring it on a leavel Surfice.
The water of the Missouri at this time is Clear with little Tinges.
I saw Several old Villages near the Chisscheta River on enquirey found
they were Mandan Villages destroyed by the Sous & Small Pox, they
noumerous and lived in 6 Villages near that place.
[Clark, February 14, 1805]
14th Sent 4 men with the Horses Shod & 2 Slays down for the meat I had
left, 22 miles below those men were rushed on by 106 Sioux who robed them
of 2 of their horses — & they returned
[Clark, February 14, 1805]
14th of February Thursday 1805 The Snow fell 3 inches Deep last night, a
fine morning, Dispatched George Drewyer & 3 men with two Slays drawn
by 3 horses for the meat left below-
[Clark, February 15, 1805]
15th Capt. Lewis with a party of men & 4 Indians went in pursute of
the Sioux, the Indians returned the next Day & informed me that the
Sioux had Burnt all my meat & Born home (they Saw me but was afraid to
attact me) Capt Lewis returned the 21st with 2400 l. of meat, haveing
Killed 36 Deer & 14 Elk, the Sioux burnt one of my meet houses; they
did not find the other
[Clark, February 15, 1805]
15th of February Friday 1805 at 10 oClock P M. last night the men that
dispatched yesterday for the meat, returned and informed us that as they
were on their march down at the distance of about 24 miles below the Fort
about 105 Indians which they took to be Souis rushed on them and Cut their
horses from the Slays, two of which they carried off in great hast, the
3rd horse was given up to the party by the intersetion of an Indian who
assumd Some authority on the accasion, probably more thro fear of himself
or Some of the Indians being killed by our men who were not disposed to be
Robed of all they had tamely, they also forced 2 of the mens knives &
a tamahawk, the man obliged them to return the tamahawk the knives they
ran off with G Drewyer Frasure, S Gutterage, & Newmon with a broken
Gun
we dispatched two men to inform the mandans, and if any of them chose to
pursue those robers, to come down in the morning, and join Capt Lewis who
intended to Set out with a party of men verry early, by 12 oClock the
Chief of the 2ed Village Big white Came down, and Soon after one other
Chief and Several men — The Chief observed that all the young men of
the 2 Villages were out hunting, and but verry fiew guns were left,Capt.
Lewis Set out at Sunrise with 24 men, to meet those Soues &c. Several
Indians accompanied him Some with Bows & arrows Some withe Spears
& Battle axes, a 2 with fusees — the morning fine the Thermometer
Stood at 16° below 0, Nought, visited by 2 of the Big Bellies this
evening, — one Chief of the Mandans returned from Capt Lewises Party
nearly blind — this Complaint is as I am infomd. Common at this Season
of the year and caused by the reflection of the Sun on the ice & Snow,
it is cured by jentilley Swetting the part affected by throweng Snow on a
hot Stone
verry Cold part of the night — one man Killed a verry large Red Fox to
day
[Clark, February 16, 1805]
16th of February Satturday 1805 a fine morning, visited by but fiew
Indians to day, at Dusk two of the Indians who wint down with Capt. Lewis
returned, Soon after two others and one man (Howard) with his feet
frosted, and informed that the Inds. who Commited the roberry of the 2
horses was So far a head that they could not be overtaken, they left a
number of pars of Mockersons which, the Mandans knew to be Souix
mockersons, — This war party Camped verry near the last camp I made
when on my hunting party, where they left Some Corn, as a deception, with
a view to induc a belief that they were Ricarras.
Capt Lewis & party proceeded on down the meat I left at my last Camp
was taken.
[Clark, February 17, 1805]
17th of February Sunday 1805 this morning worm & a little Cloudy, the
Coal & his Son visited me to day with about 30 w. of Drid Buffalow
meat, & Some Tallow Mr. McKinsey one of the N W. Compys. Clerks
visited me (one of the hoses the Sous robed a fiew Days past belonged to
this man) The after part of the day fair,
[Clark, February 18, 1805]
18th of February Monday 1805 a cloudy morning Some Snow, Several Indians
here today Mr. McKinsey leave me, the after part of the day fine I am much
engaged makeing a discriptive List of the Rivers from Information our
Store of Meat is out to day
[Clark, February 19, 1805]
19th of February Tuesday 1805 a fine Day visited by Several of the Mandans
to day, our Smiths are much engaged mending and makeing Axes for the
Indians for which we get Corn
[Clark, February 20, 1805]
Fort Mandan 20th February Wednesday 1805 a Butifull Day, visited by the
Little raven verry early this morning I am informed of the Death of an old
man whome I Saw in the Mandan Village. this man, informed me that he "was
120 winters old, he requested his grand Children to Dress him after Death
& Set him on a Stone on a hill with his face towards his old Village
or Down the river, that he might go Streight to his brother at their old
village under ground"I observed Several Mandan verry old Chiefly men
[Clark, February 21, 1805]
21st February Thursday 1805 a Delightfull Day put out our Clothes to Sun — Visited
by the big white & Big man they informed me that Several men of their
nation was gorn to Consult their Medison Stone about 3 day march to the
South West to know What was to be the result of the insuing year — They
have great confidence in this Stone and Say that it informs them of every
thing which is to happen, & visit it every Spring & Sometimes in
the Summer "They haveing arrived at the Stone give it Smoke and proceed to
the wood at Some distance to Sleep the next morning return to the Stone,
and find marks white & raised on the Stone representing the piece or
war which they are to meet with, and other changes, which they are to
meet" This Stone has a leavel Surface of about 20 feet in Surcumfrance,
thick and pores, and no doubt has Some mineral qualtites effected by the
Sun.
The Big Bellies have a Stone to which they ascribe nearly the Same Virtues
Capt Lewis returned with 2 Slays loaded with meat, after finding that he
could not overtake the Souis war party, (who had in their way distroyd all
the meat at one Deposit which I had made & Burnt the Lodges)
deturmined to proceed on to the lower Deposit, which he found had not been
observed by Soux he hunted two day Killed 36 Deer & 14 Elk, Several of
them So meager, that they were unfit for use, the meet which he killed and
that in the lower Deposit amounting to about 3000 wt was brought up on two
Slays, one Drawn by 16 men had about 2400 wt on it
[Clark, February 22, 1805]
Fort Mandan
22nd of February Friday 1805.
a Cloudy morning, at about 12 oClock it began to rain and Continud for
a fiew minits, and turned to Snow, and Continud Snowing for about one
hour, and Cleared away fair The two hunters left below arrived, They
killed two Elk, and hung them up out of the reach of the wolves — The
Coal a Ricara who is a considerable Chief of the Mandans visited us to
day, and maney others of the three nations in our neighbourhood.
[Clark, February 23, 1805]
23rd of February 1805 Satturday All hands employed in Cutting the Perogus
Loose from the ice, which was nearly even with their top; we found great
difficuelty in effecting this work owing to the Different devisions of Ice
& water after Cutting as much as we Could with axes, we had all the
Iron we Could get & Some axes put on long poles and picked throught
the ice, under the first water, which was not more the 6 or 8 inches deep — we
disengaged one Perogue, and nearly disingaged the 2nd in Course of this
day which has been warm & pleasent vised by a no of Indians, jessomme
& familey went to the Shoes Indians Villag to day
The father of the Boy whose feet were frose near this place, and nearly
Cured by us took him home in a Slay-
[Clark, February 24, 1805]
24th February Sunday 1805 The Day fine, we Commenced very early to day the
Cutting loose the boat which was more difficuelt than the perogus with
great exertions and with the assistance of Great prises we lousened her
and turned the Second perogue upon the ice, ready to Draw out, in
Lousening the boat from the ice Some of the Corking drew out which Caused
her to Leake for a few minits untill we Discovered the Leake & Stoped
it — Jessomme our interpeter & familey returned from the Villages
Several Indians visit us today
[Clark, February 25, 1805]
25th of February Monday 1805 we fixed a Windlass and Drew up the two
Perogues on the upper bank and attempted the Boat, but the Roap which we
bade made of Elk Skins proved too weak & broke Several times night
Comeing on obliged us to leave her in a Situation but little advanced- we
were Visited by the Black mockerson Chief of the little Village of Big
Bellies, the Cheef of the Shoe Inds and a number of others those Chiefs
gave us Some meat which they packed on their wives, and one requested a ax
to be made for hies Sun, Mr. Bunch, one of the under traders for the
hudsons Bay Companey — one of the Big Bellies asked leave for himself
& his two wives to Stay all night, which was granted, also two Boys
Stayed all night, one the Sun of the Black Cat.
The Day has been exceedingly pleasent
[Clark, February 26, 1805]
26th of Feby 1805 Drew up the Boat & perogus, after Cutting them out
of the ice with great Dificuelty-& trouble
[Clark, February 26, 1805]
26th February Tuesday 1805 a fine Day Commencd verry early in makeing
preparations for drawing up the Boat on the bank, at Sunset by repeated
exertions the whole day we accomplished this troublesom task, just as we
were fixed for having the Boat the ice gave away near us for about 100 yds
in length — a number of Indians here to day to See the Boat rise on
the Bank
[Clark, February 27, 1805]
27th of February Wednesday 1805 a fine day, prepareing the Tools to make
perogues all day — a feiw Indians visit us to day, one the largest
Indian I ever Saw, & as large a man as ever I Saw, I commence a Map of
the Countrey on the Missouries & its waters &c. &c.
[Clark, February 28, 1805]
28th of February 1805 Thursday Mr. Gravilin 2 frenchmen and 2 Ricaras
arrived from the Ricaras with letters from Mr. Tahoe &c. informing us
of the Deturmination of the Ricaras to follow our councils — and the
threts & intintions of the Sioux in Killing us whenever they again met
us — and that a party of Several bands were formeing to attacke the
Mandans &c. &c.
we informed the Mandans & others of this information & also the
wish the Ricars had to live near them & fite the Sioux &c. &c.
&c.
despatched 16 Men 5 Miles abov to build 6 Canoes for the voyage, being
Deturmend to Send back the Barge
[Clark, February 28, 1805]
28th of February Thursday 1805 a fine morning, two men of the N W Compy
arrve with letters and Sacka comah also a Root and top of a plant
presented by Mr. Haney, for the Cure of mad Dogs Snakes &c, and to be
found & used as follows vz: "this root is found on high lands and
asent of hills, the way of useing it is to Scarify the part when bitten to
chu or pound an inch or more if the root is Small, and applying it to the
bitten part renewing it twice a Day. the bitten person is not to chaw nor
Swallow any of the Root for it might have contrary effect."
Sent out 16 men to make four Perogus those men returned in the evening and
informed that they found trees they thought would answer.
Mr. Gravelin two frenchmen & two Inds. arrive from the Ricara Nation
with Letters from Mr. Anty Tabeaux, informing us of the peaceable
dispositions of that nation towards the Mandans & Me ne to res &
their avowed intentions of pursueing our Councils & advice, they
express a wish to visit the Mandans, & Know if it will be agreeable to
them to admit the Ricaras to Settle near them and join them against their
common Enimey the Souis we mentioned this to the mandans, who observed
they had always wished to be at peace and good neighbours with the
Ricaras, and it is also the Sentiments of all the Big Bellies, & Shoe
Nations
Mr. Gravilin informs that the Sisetoons and the 3 upper bands of the
Tetons, with the Yanktons of the North intend to come to war in a Short
time against the nations in this quarter, & will Kill everry white man
they See — Mr. T. also informes that Mr. Cameron of St peters has put
arms into the hands of the Souls to revenge the death of 3 of his men
Killed by the Chipaways latterly — and that the Band of tetons which
we Saw is desposed to doe as we have advised them — thro the influenc
of their Chief the Black Buffalow
Mr. Gravilin further informs that the Party which Robed us of the 2 horses
laterly were all Sieoux 100 in number, they Called at the Ricaras on their
return, the Ricares being displeased at their Conduct would not give them
any thing to eate, that being the greatest insult they could peaceably
offer them, and upbraded them.
[Clark, March 1, 1805]
March 1st Friday 1805 a fine Day I am ingaged in Copying a map, men
building perogus, makeing Ropes, Burning Coal, Hanging up meat &
makeing battle axes for Corn
[Clark, March 2, 1805]
2nd of March 1805 Satturday a fine Day the river brake up in places all
engaged about Something Mr. La Rocque a Clerk of the N W Company visit us,
he has latterly returned from the Establishments on the Assinniboin River
with Merchindize to tarade with Indians — Mr. L informs us the N, W.
& X Y Companies have joined, & the head of the N W. Co. is Dead
Mr. McTavish of Monteral,- visted by the Coal & Several Indians
[Clark, March 3, 1805]
3rd of March Sunday 1805 a fine Day wind from the W, a large flock of
Ducks pass up the Rivervisited by the black Cat, Chief of the Mandans 2d
Cheif and a Big Belley, they Stayed but a Short time we informed those
Chiefs of the news recved from the Ricaras, all hands employd
[Clark, March 4, 1805]
Fort Mandan 4th March Monday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the N W the
after part of the day Clear, visited by the Black Cat & Big White, who
brought a Small present of meat, an Engage of the N W Co. Came for a
horse, and requested in the name of the woman of the princapal of his
Department Some Silk of three Colours, which we furnished-. The
Assinniboins who visited the Mandans a fiew Days ago returned and
attempted to take horses of the Minetarres & were fired on by them
[Clark, March 5, 1805]
5th March Tuesday 1805 A fine Day Themometer at 40° abo 0. Several Indians
visit us to day one frenchman cross to join a Indian the two pass through
by Land to the Ricaras with a Letter to Mr. Tabbow
[Clark, March 6, 1805]
6th of March Wednesday 1805 a Cloudy morning & Smokey all Day from the
burning of the plains, which was Set on fire by the Minetarries for an
early crop of Grass as an endusement for the Buffalow to feed on — the
horses which was Stolen Some time ago by the Assinniboins from the
minetarries were returned yesterday — visited by Oh-harh or the Little
fox 2d Chief of the lower Village of the Me ne tar ries — one man
Shannon Cut his foot with the ads in working at a perogue, George &
Graviline go to the Village, the river rise a little to day-
[Clark, March 7, 1805]
7th of March Thursday 1805 a little Cloudy and windey N E. the Coal
visited us with a Sick child, to whome I gave Some of rushes Pills — Shabounar
returned this evening from the Gross Vintres & informed that all the
nation had returned from the hunting — he our menetarre interpeter had
received a present from Mr. Chaboilleiz of the N. W. Company of the
following articles 3 Brace of Cloath 1 Brace of Scarlet a par Corduroy
Overalls 1 Vests 1 Brace Blu Cloth 1 Brace red or Scarlet with 3 bars, 200
balls & Powder, 2 bracs Tobacco, 3 Knives.
[Clark, March 8, 1805]
8th of March Friday 1805 a fair morning Cold and windey, wind from the
East, visited by the Greesey head & a Riarca to day, those men gave
Some account of the Indians near the rockey mountains
a young Indian same nation & Differnt Village Stole the Doughter of
the Black man, he went to his Village took his horse & returned &
took away his doughter
[Clark, March 9, 1805]
on the 9th of March we were Visited by the Grand Chief of the Minetarres,
to whome we gave a medal & Some Cloths & a flag. Sent a French Man
& a Indian with a letter to Mr. Tabboe informing them the Ricarras of
the desire the Mandans had to See them &. &.
[Clark, March 9, 1805]
9th of March Satturday 1805 a Cloudy Cold and windey morning wind from the
North — walked up to See the Party that is makeing Perogues, about 5
miles above this, the wind hard and Cold on my way up I met The Main Chief
of the Manitarres with four Indians on Thier way to See us, I requested
him to proceed on to the fort where he would find Capt. Lewis I should be
there my Self in corse of a fiew hours, Sent the interpeter back with him
and proceeded on my Self to the Canoes found them nearly finished, the
timber verry bad, after visiting all the perogues where I found a number
of Indans I wind to the upper mandan Village & Smoked a pipe the
greatest mark of friendship and attention with the Chief and returned on
my return found the Manitarree Chief about Setting out on his return to
his village, having recieved of Captain M. Lewis a medel Gorget armbans, a
Flag Shirt, Scarlet &c. &c. &c. for which he was much pleased
Those Things were given in place of Sundery articles Sent to him which he
Sais he did not receive 2 guns were fired for this Great man
[Clark, March 10, 1805]
10th of March Sunday 1805. a Cold winday Day. we are visited by the Black
mockersons, Chief of the 2d Manetarre Village and the Chief of the Shoeman
Village or Mah ha ha V. those Chiefs Stayed all day and the latter all
night and gave us many Strang accounts of his nation &c this Little
tribe or band of Menitaraies Call themselves Ah-nah-haway or people whose
village is on the hill. nation formerleyed lived about 30 miles below this
but beeing oppressed by the Asinniboins & Sous were Compelled to move
5 miles the Minitaries, where, the Assinniboins Killed the most of. them
those remaining built a village verry near to the Minitarries at the mouth
of Knife R where they now live and Can raise about 50 men, they are
intermixed with the Mandans & Minatariers — the Manclans formerly
lived in 6 large villages at and above the mouth of Chischeter or Heart
River five Villages on the West Side & two on the East one of those
Villages on the East Side of the Missouri & the larges was intirely
Cut off by the Sioux & the greater part of the others and the Small
Pox reduced the others.
[Clark, March 11, 1805]
Fort Mandan 11th of March Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cold windey day, Some Snow
in the latter part of the day, we deturmin to have two other Perogues made
for us to transport our Provisions &c.
We have every reason to believe that our Menetarre interpeter, (whome we
intended to take with his wife, as an interpeter through his wife to the
Snake Indians of which nation She is) has been Corupted by the ____
Companeys &c. Some explenation has taken place which Clearly proves to
us the fact, we give him to night to reflect and deturmin whether or not
he intends to go with us under the regulations Stated.
[Clark, March 12, 1805]
12th a fine day Some Snow last night our Interpeter Shabonah, detumins on
not proceeding with us as an interpeter under the terms mentioned
yesterday he will not agree to work let our Situation be what it may not
Stand a guard, and if miffed with any man he wishes to return when he
pleases, also have the disposial of as much provisions as he Chuses to
Carrye.
in admissable and we Suffer him to be off the engagement which was only
virbal wind N W
[Clark, March 13, 1805]
13th of March Wednesday 1805 a fine day visited by Mr. Mckinsey one of the
Clerks of the N W Companey, the river riseing a little — maney Inds.
here to day all anxiety for war axes the Smiths have not an hour of Idle
time to Spear wind S W
[Clark, March 14, 1805]
14th March Thursday 1805. a fine day Set all hands to Shelling Corn &c.
Mr. McKinsey leave us to day maney Indians as usial. wind west river Still
riseing
[Clark, March 15, 1805]
15th of March Friday 1805 a fine day I put out all the goods & Parch
meal Clothing &c to Sun, a number of Indians here to day They make
maney remarks respecting our goods &c. Set Some men about Hulling Corn
&c.
[Lewis, March 16, 1805]
March 16th, 1804. Mr. Gurrow a Frenchman who has lived many years with the
Ricares & Mandans shewed us the process used by those Indians to make
beads. the discovery of this art these nations are said to have derived
from the Snake Indians who have been taken prisoners by the Ricaras. the
art is kept a secret by the Indians among themselves and is yet known to
but few of them.
the Prosess is as follows, — Take glass of as many different colours
as you think proper, then pound it as fine as possible puting each colour
in a seperate vessel. wash the pounded glass in several waters throwing
off the water at each washing. continue this opperation as long as the
pounded glass stains or colours the water which is poured off and the
residium is then prepared for uce. You then provide an earthen pot of
convenient size say of three gallons which will stand the fire; a platter
also of the same materials sufficiently small to be admitted in the mouth
of the pot or jar. the pot has a nitch in it's edge through which to watch
the beads when in blast. You then provide some well seasoned clay with a
propertion of sand sufficient to prevent it's becoming very hard when
exposed to the heat. this clay must be tempered with water untill it is
about the consistency of common doe. of this clay you then prepare, a
sufficient number of little sticks of the size you wish the hole through
the bead, which you do by roling the clay on the palm of the hand with
your finger. this done put those sticks of clay on the platter and espose
them to a red heat for a few minutes when you take them off and suffer
them to cool. the pot is also heated to cles it perfectly of any filth it
may contain. small balls of clay are also mad of about an ounce weight
which serve each as a pedestal for a bead. these while soft ar distributed
over the face of the platter at such distance from each other as to
prevent the beads from touching. some little wooden paddles are now
provided from three to four inches in length sharpened or brought to a
point at the extremity of the handle. with this paddle you place in the
palm of the hand as much of the wet pounded glass as is necessary to make
the bead of the size you wish it. it is then arranged with the paddle in
an oblong form, laying one of those little stick of clay crosswise over
it; the pounded glass by means of the paddle is then roped in cilindrical
form arround the stick of clay and gently roled by motion of the hand
backwards an forwards until you get it as regular and smooth as you
conveniently can. if you wish to introduce any other colour you now
purforate the surface of the bead with the pointed end of your little
paddle and fill up the cavity with other pounded glass of the colour you
wish forming the whole as regular as you can. a hole is now made in the
center of the little pedestals of clay with the handle of your shovel
sufficiently large to admit the end of the stick of clay arround which the
bead is formed. the beads are then arranged perpindicularly on their
pedestals and little distance above them supported by the little sticks of
clay to which they are attatched in the manner before mentioned. Thus
arranged the platter is deposited on burning coals or hot embers and the
pot reversed with the apparture in it's edge turned towards coverd the
whole. dry wood pretty much doated; is then plased arron the pot in sush
manner as compleatly to cover it is then set on fire and the opperator
must shortly after begin to watch his beads through the apparture of the
pot lest they should be distroyed by being over heated. he suffers the
beads to acquire a deep red heat from which when it passes in a small
degree to a pailer or whitish red, or he discovers that the beads begin to
become pointed at their upper extremities he removes the fire from about
the pot and suffers the whole to cool gradually. the pot is then removed
and the beads taken out. the clay which fills the hollow of the beads is
picked out with an awl or nedle, the bead is then fit for uce. The Indians
are extreemly fond of the large beads formed by this process. they use
them as pendants to their years, or hair and sometimes wear them about
their necks.
[Clark, March 16, 1805]
16th of March Satturday 1805 a Cloudy day wind from the S. E one Indian
much displeased with whitehouse for Strikeing his hand when eating with a
Spoon for behaveing badly. Mr. Garrow Shew'd us the way the ricaras made
their large Beeds
[Clark, March 17, 1805]
17th of March Sunday a windey Day attempted to air our goods &. Mr.
Chabonah Sent a french man of our party that he was Sorry for the foolissh
part he had acted and if we pleased he would accompany us agreeabley to
the terms we had perposed and doe every thing we wished him to doe &c.
&c. he had requested me Some thro our French inturpeter two days ago
to excuse his Simplicity and take him into the cirvise, after he had taken
his things across the River we called him in and Spoke to him on the
Subject, he agreed to our terms and we agreed that he might go on with us
&c &c. but fiew Indians here to day; the river riseing a little
and Severall places open.
[Clark, March 18, 1805]
18th of March 1805 a cold cloudy Day wind from the N. I pack up all the
merchindize into 8 packs equally devided So as to have Something of every
thing in each Canoe & perogue I am informed of a Party of Christanoes
& assinniboins being killed by the Sioux, 50 in Number near the
Estableishments on the assinniboin R. a fiew days ago (the effect of Mr.
Cammeron, revenge on the Chipaway for Killing 3 of his men) Mr. Tousent
Chabono, Enlisted as an Interpreter this evening, I am not well to day.
[Clark, March 19, 1805]
19th of March 1805 Cold windey Day Cloudy Some little Snow last night
Visited to Day by the big white & Little Crow, also a man & his
wife with a Sick Child, I administer for the child I am told that two
parties are gorn to war from the Big bellies and one other party going to
war Shortly.
[Clark, March 20, 1805]
I visited the Mandans on the 20th & have the canoes taken to the
River, ready to Decend to the fort when the River Clears,
[Clark, March 20, 1805]
Fort Mandan 20th March Wednesday 1805. I with all the men which could be
Speared from the Fort went to Canoes, there I found a number of Indians
the men carried 4 to the River about 11/2 miles thro the Bottom, I visited
the Chief of the Mandans in the Course of the Day and Smoked a pipe with
himself and Several old men. cloudy wind hard from N.
[Clark, March 21, 1805]
I return on the 21st and on my return I passed on the points of the high
hills S. S. where I saw an emence quantity of Pumice Stone, and evident
marks of the hills being on fire I collected some Pumice Stone, burnt
Stone & hard earth and put them into a furnace, the hard earth melted
and glazed the other two a part of which i, e, the Hard Clay became a
Pumice-Stone, I also collected a Plant the root of which is a Cure for the
Bite of a mad dog & Snake which I shall Send — Mr. Haney (I think
it grows in the Blue R Barrens) the Indians make large Beeds of Different
Colours-
[Clark, March 21, 1805]
21st March Thursday 1805 a Cloudy Day Some snow, the men Carried the
remaining the 2 remained Canoes to the River, all except 3 left to take
care & complete the Canoes, returned to the fort with their baggage,
on my return to day to the Fort I came on the points of the high hills,
Saw an emence quantity of Pumice Stone on the Sides & foot of the
hills and emence beds of Pumice Stone near the Tops of the hills with
evident marks of the Hill haveing once been on fire, I collected Some the
differnt i e Stone Pumice Stone & a hard earth and put them into a
furnace the hard earth melted and glazed the others two and the hard Clay
became a pumice Stone Glazed. I collected Some plants &c.
[Clark, March 22, 1805]
22nd of March 1805 Visited by the 2nd Chief of the Grand Village of the
Minetarrees to whome we gave a medal & Some Clothes acknowledging him
as a 2d Chief, he Delayed all night, & Saw the men Dance, which is
common amusement with the men he returned the 23rd with Mr. La Rocque
& McKinsey two of the N W. Companys Clerks — Some few Drops of
rain this evening for the first time this Winter visited by many Indians
to day
[Clark, March 22, 1805]
March 22, 1805 23rd of March Friday 1805 a Cloudy Day visited by Mrs. Lack
McKinsey & the 2d Chief of the Bigbellies, the white wolf and many
other Menataries, we gave a Medal Some Clothes and wampoms to the 2 Chief
and Delivered a Speach, which they all appeared well pleased with in The
evening the men Danced Mr. Jessomme displeased
[Clark, March 24, 1805]
24th of March Satturday 1805 after Brackfast Mr. La Rocke and Mr. McKinsey
and the Chiefs & men of the Minetarras leave us — Soon after we
were visited by a Brother of the Burnia who gave us a Vocabulary of his
Language — the Coal & many other Mandans also visit us to Day. a
find Day in the fore part in the evening a little rain & the first
this winter
[Clark, March 25, 1805]
25th of March Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the N E the after
part of the Day fair, Several Indians visit us today, prepareing to Set
out on our journey Saw Swans & wild Gees flying N E this evening
[Clark, March 25, 1805]
March 25, 1805 26h The ice broke up in Several places in the evenig broke
away and was nearly takeing off our new Canoes river rise a little
[Clark, March 26, 1805]
26th of March Monday 1805 a find Day wind S. W. but fiew Inds visit us to
day the Ice haveing broken up in Several places, The ice began to brake
away this evening and was near distroying our Canoes as they wer decnding
to the fort, river rose only 9 Inches to day prepareing to Depart
[Clark, March 27, 1805]
27th of March Tuesday 1805 The river choked up with ice opposit to us and
broke away in the evening raised only 1/2 Inch all employed prepareing to
Set out
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th had all the Canoes, the Perogus corked pitchd & lined cover the
Cotton Wood, which is win Shaken (the Mandans feed their horses on the
cotton wood Sticks in places of corn).
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
28th of March Friday 1805 a windey Blustering Day wind S W ice running the
river Blocked up in view for the Space of 4 hours and gave way leaveing
great quantity of ice on the Shallow Sand bars. had all the canoes corked
pitched & tirred in and on the cracks and windshake which is
universially in the Cotton wood
[Clark, March 28, 1805]
March 28, 1805 25th the ice Stoped running owing to Some obstickle above
all prepareing to Set out but few Indians visit us to day they are
watching to catch the floating Buffalow which brake through the ice in
Crossing, those people are fond of those animals tainted and Catch great
numbers every Spring
[Clark, March 29, 1805]
29th of March Satturday 1805 The ice has Stoped running owing to Som
obstickle above, repare the Boat & Perogues, and prepareing to Set out
but few Indians visit us to day they are now attending on the river bank
to Catch the floating Buffalow
[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March. The Ice is passing in great quantites, river ran a little,
The Plains are on fire on both Sides of the river it is common for the
indians to Set those Plains on fire near their village for the advantage
of early Grass for the hors & as an inducement to the Buffalow to
visit them
[Clark, March 30, 1805]
30th of March Sunday 1805 The obstickle broke away above & the ice
came dow in great quantites the river rose 13 inches the last 24 hours I
observed extrodanary dexterity of the Indians in jumping from one Cake of
ice to another, for the purpose of Catching the buffalow as they float
down maney of the Cakes of ice which they pass over are not two feet
Square. The Plains are on fire in view of the fort on both Sides of the
River, it is Said to be common for the Indians to burn the Plains near
their villages every Spring for the benifit of ther horse, and to induce
the Buffalow to come near to them.
[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31 h of March Monday 1805 Cloudy Several gangus of Ducks and Gees pass up
not much ice floating. All the party in high Spirits, but fiew nights pass
without a Dance they are helth. except the-vn. — which is common with
the Indians and have been communicated to many of our party at this place — those
favores bieng easy acquired. all Tranquille
[Clark, March 31, 1805]
31t of March Monday 1805 Cloudy Day Seven Gangs of Gees and Ducks pass up
the river — but a Small portion of ice floating down to day — but
fiew Inds visit us to day all the party in high Spirits they pass but fiew
nights without amuseing themselves danceing possessing perfect harmony and
good understanding towards each other Generally healthy except venerials
complains which is verry Commion amongst the natives and the men Catch it
from them
[Clark, April 1, 1805]
April 1st 1805 we have Thunder lightning hail and rain to day the first
rain of note Sinc the 15 of October last, I had the Boat Perogus &
Canos put in the water, and expect to Set off the boat with despatches in
her will go 6 Americans 3 frenchmen, and perhaps Several ricarra Chief
imediately after we Shall assend in 2 perogus & 6 canoes, accompanied
by 5 french who intends to assend a Short distance to trap the beavr which
is in great abundance highr up our party will consist of one Interpter
& Hunter, one French man as an interpreter with his two wives (this
man Speaks Minetary to his wives who are L hiatars or Snake Indians of the
nations through which we Shall pass, and to act as interpretress thro him) — 26
americans & french my servant and an Mandan Indian and provisions for
4 months
[Clark, April 1, 1805]
Fort Mandan April the 1st Tuesday 1805 The fore part of to day haile rain
with Thunder & lightning, the rain continued by intimitions all day,
it is worthey of remark that this is the 1st rain which has fallen Since
we have been here or Since the 15 of October last, except a fiew drops at
two or three defferent times
had the Boat Perogus & Canoes all put into the water.
[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd a Cold rain day we are writeing and prepareing dispatches
all day — I conclude to Send my journal to the President of the United
States in its original State for his own perusial, untill I call for it or
Some friend if I should not return, an this journal is from the 13th of
May 1804 untill the 3rd of April 1805. wrote untill verry late at night
but little time to devote to my friends, the river is falling fast.
[Clark, April 2, 1805]
April the 2nd Friday 1805 a cloudy day rained all the last night we are
preparing to Set out all thing nearly ready. The 2d Chief of the 2d Mandan
Village took a miff at our not attending to him perticelarely after being
here about ten day and moved back to his village
The mandans Killed twenty one elk yesterday 15 miles below this, they were
So meager that they Scercely fit for use
[Clark, April 3, 1805]
3rd of April we Shall pack up to day and Set out tomorrow.
[Clark, April 3, 1805]
April the 3rd Thursday 1805
a white frost this morning, Some ice on the edge of the water, a fine
day Pack up and prepare to load
Mrs. La Roche & McKinsey Clerk to the N W. Compy. visit us. Mr.
McKinzey wishes to get pay for his horse lost in our Service this winter
and one of which was robed this winter by the Tetons, we Shall pay this
man for his horse. we are all day ingaged packing up Sundery articles to
be Sent to the President of the U. S.
bow an quiver of arrows-with some Ricara's tobacco seed
No. 11 a Martin Skin, Containing the tail of a Mule Deer, a weasel and
three Squirels from the Rockey mountains.
No. 12. The bones & Skeleton of a Small burrowing wolf of the Praries
the Skin being lost by accident.
No. 99 The Skeliton of the white and Grey hare.
Box No. 2, contains 4 Buffalow Robes, and a ear of Mandan Corn.
The large Trunk Contains a male & female Brarow and female's Skeliton.
a Carrote of Ricaras Tobacco
a red fox Skin Containing a Magpie.
No. 14 Minitarras Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian dress.
No. 15 a Mandan robe containing two burrowing Squirels, a white weasel and
the Skin of a Loucirvea.
also
13 red fox Skins.
1 white Hare Skin &.
4 horns of the mountain ram
1 Robe representing a battle between the Sioux & Ricaras,
Minetarras and Mandans.
In Box No. 3.
nos. 1 & 2 The Skins of the Male & female Antelope with their
Skelitons. & the Skin of a yellow Bear which I obtained from the
Scions
No. 4. Box Specimens of plants numbered from 1 to 67.
Specimens of Plants numbered frome 1 to 60.
1 Earthen pot Such as the Mandans Manufacture and use for
culinary purposes.
Box No 4 Continued
1 Tin box, containing insects mice &c. a Specimine of the fur of the
antelope.
a Specimon of a plant, and a parcel of its roots highly prized by the
natives as
an efficatious remidy in Cases of the bite of the rattle Snake or Mad Dog.
In a large Trunk
Skins of a Male and female Braro, or burrowing Dog of the Prarie, with the
Skeliton of the female.
1 Skin of the red fox Containing a Magpie.
2 Cased Skins of the white hare.
1 Minitarra Buffalow robe Containing Some articles of Indian Dress
1 Mandan Buffalow robe Containing a dressed Lousirva Skin, and 2 Cased
Skins of the Burrowing Squirel of the Praries.
13 red fox Skins
4 Horns of the Mountain Ram or big horn.
1 Buffalow robe painted by a mandan man representing a battle fought 8
years Since by the Sioux & Ricaras against the mandans, menitarras
& Ah wah bar ways (Mandans &c. on horseback)
Cage No. 6.
Contains a liveing burrowing Squirel of the praries
Cage No. 7.
Contains 4 liveing magpies
Cage No. 9.
Containing a liveing hen of the Prarie
a large par of Elks horns containing by the frontal bone-
[Clark, April 4, 1805]
April the 4th 1805 Wednesday
a blustering windey Day the Clerks of the N W. Co. leave us we are
arrangeing all things to Set out &c.
[Clark, April 5, 1805]
April the 5th 1805 Thursday we have our 2 perogues & Six Canoes loaded
with our Stores & provisions, principally provisions. the wind verry
high from the N W. a number of Mandans visit us to day
[Clark, April 6, 1805]
April the 6th Friday Saturday 1805 a fine day visited by a number of
mandans, we are informed of the arrival of the whole of the ricarra nation
on the other Side of the river near their old village. we Sent an
interpreter to See with orders to return imediately and let us know if
their Chiefs ment to go down to See their great father.
[Lewis, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805. Having on this day at 4 P.M. completed every
arrangement necessary for our departure, we dismissed the barge and crew
with orders to return without loss of time to S. Louis, a small canoe with
two French hunters accompanyed the barge; these men had assended the
missouri with us the last year as engages. The barge crew consisted of six
soldiers and two ____ Frenchmen; two Frenchmen and a Ricara Indian also
take their passage in her as far as the Ricara Vilages, at which place we
expect Mr. Tiebeau to embark with his peltry who in that case will make an
addition of two, perhaps four men to the crew of the barge. We gave
Richard Warfington, a discharged Corpl., the charge of the Barge and crew,
and confided to his care likewise our dispatches to the government,
letters to our private friends, and a number of articles to the President
of the United States. One of the Frenchmen by the Name of Gravline an
honest discrete man and an excellent boat-man is imployed to conduct the
barge as a pilot; we have therefore every hope that the barge and with her
our dispatches will arrive safe at St. Louis. Mr. Gravlin who speaks the
Ricara language extreemly well, has been imployed to conduct a few of the
Recara Chiefs to the seat of government who have promised us to decend in
the barge to St. Liwis with that view.
At same moment that the Barge departed from Fort Mandan, Capt. Clark
embaked with our party and proceeded up the river. as I had used no
exercise for several weeks, I determined to walk on shore as far as our
encampment of this evening; accordingly I continued my walk on the N. side
of the River about six miles, to the upper Village of the Mandans, and
called on the Black Cat or Pose cop'se ha, the great chief of the Mandans;
he was not at home; I rested myself a minutes, and finding that the party
had not arrived I returned about 2 miles and joined them at their
encampment on the N. side of the river opposite the lower Mandan village.
Our party now consisted of the following Individuals. Sergts. John Ordway,
Nathaniel Prior, & Patric Gass; Privates, William Bratton, John
Colter, Reubin, and Joseph Fields, John Shields, George Gibson, George
Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Joseph Whitehouse, Richard Windsor,
Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Goodrich, Robert Frazier, Peter
Crouzatt, John Baptiest la Page, Francis Labiech, Hue McNeal, William
Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, and John B. Thompson.
Interpreters, George Drewyer and Tauasant Charbono also a Black man by the
name of York, servant to Capt. Clark, an Indian Woman wife to Charbono
with a young child, and a Mandan man who had promised us to accompany us
as far as the Snake Indians with a view to bring about a good
understanding and friendly intercourse between that nation and his own,
the Minetares and Ahwahharways.
Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This
little fleet altho not quite so rispectable as those of Columbus or Capt.
Cook were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those deservedly
famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with quite as much
anxiety for their safety and preservation. we were now about to penetrate
a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of
civillized man had never trodden; the good or evil it had in store for us
was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessells contained
every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves.
however as this the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the
colouring to events, when the immagination is suffered to wander into
futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing
one. entertaing as I do, the most confident hope of succeading in a voyage
which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, I could
but esteem this moment of my departure as among the most happy of my life.
The party are in excellent health and sperits, zealously attatched to the
enterprise, and anxious to proceed; not a whisper of murmur or discontent
to be heard among them, but all act in unison, and with the most perfect
harmony. I took an early supper this evening and went to bed. Capt. Clark
myself the two Interpretters and the woman and child sleep in a tent of
dressed skins. this tent is in the Indian stile, formed of a number of
dressed Buffaloe skins sewed together with sinues. it is cut in such
manner that when foalded double it forms the quarter of a circle, and is
left open at one side where it may be attatched or loosened at pleasure by
strings which are sewed to its sides to the purpose. to erect this tent, a
parsel of ten or twelve poles are provided, fore or five of which are
attatched together at one end, they are then elivated and their lower
extremities are spread in a circular manner to a width proportionate to
the demention of the lodge, in the same position orther poles are leant
against those, and the leather is then thrown over them forming a conic
figure.
[Clark, April 7, 1805]
7th of April Satturday 1805" a windey day, The Interpreter we Sent to the
Villages returned with Chief of the Ricara's & 3 men of that nation
this Chief informed us that he was Sent by his nation to Know the
despositions of the nations in this neighbourhood in respect to the
recara's Settleing near them, that he had not yet made those arrangements,
he request that we would Speek to the Assinniboins, & Crow Inds. in
their favour, that they wished to follow our directions and be at peace
with all, he viewed all nations in this quarter well disposed except the
Sioux. The wish of those recaras appears to be a junction with the Mandans
& Minetarras in a Defensive war with the Sioux who rob them of every
Spece of property in Such a manner that they Cannot live near them any
longer. I told this Chief we were glad to See him, and we viewed his
nation as the Dutifull Children of a Great father who would extend his
protection to all those who would open their ears to his good advice, we
had already Spoken to the Assinniboins, and Should Speeke to the Crow
Indians if we Should See them &c. as to the Sioux their Great father
would not let them have any more good Guns &c. would take Care to
prosu Such measurs as would provent those Sioux from Murding and taking
the property from his dutyfull red Children &c. — we gave him a
certificate of his good Conduct & a Small Medal, a Carrot of Tobacco
and a String of Wompom — he requested that one of his men who was lame
might decend in the boat to their nation and returned to the Mandans well
Satisfied
The name of this Chief of War is Kah-kah, we to-Raven brave.
This Cheif delivered us a letter from Mr. Taboe. informing us of the wish
of the Grand Chiefs of the Ricarras to visit their Great father and
requesting the privolage of put'g on board the boat 3000 w of Skins &c.
& adding 4 hands and himself to the party. this preposeal we Shall
agree to, as that addition will make the party in the boat 15 Strong and
more able to defend themselves from the Seoux &c.
[Clark, April 7, 1805]
Fort Mandan April 7th 1805" Sunday, at 4 oClock P M, the Boat, in which
was 6 Soldiers 2 frenchmen & an Indian, all under the command of a
corporal who had the charge of dispatches, &c.and a Canoe with 2
french men, Set out down the river for St. Louis. at the same time we Sout
out on our voyage up the river in 2 perogues and 6 canoes, and proceded on
to the 1st villg. of Mandans & Camped on the S. S. — our party
consisting of Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor Sgt. John Ordway Sgt. Pat. Gass,
William Bratten, John Colter Joseph & Reubin Fields, John Shields
George Gibson George Shannon, John Potts, John Collins, Jos. Whitehouse,
Richard Windser, Alexander Willard, Hugh Hall, Silas Gutrich, Robert
Frazure, Peter Crouzat, John Baptiest la page, Francis Labich, Hugh
McNeal, William Werner, Thomas P. Howard, Peter Wiser, J. B. Thompson and
my Servent york, George Drewyer who acts as a hunter & interpreter,
Shabonah and his Indian Squar to act as an Interpreter & interpretress
for the snake Indians-one Mandan & Shabonahs infant. Sah-kah-gar we a
[Lewis, April 8, 1805]
April 8th Set out early this morning, the wind blew hard against us from
the N. W. we therefore traveled very slowly. I walked on shore, and
visited the black Cat, took leave of him after smoking a pipe as is their
custom, and then proceeded on slowly by land about four miles where I
wated the arrival of the party, at 12 Oclock they came up and informed me
that one of the small canoes was behind in distress. Capt Clark returned
foud she had filled with water and all her loading wet. we lost half a bag
of hisquit, and about thirty pounds of powder by this accedent; the powder
we regard as a serious loss, but we spread it to dry immediately and hope
we shall still be enabled to restore the greater part of it. this was the
only powder we had which was not perfectly secure from geting wet. we took
dinner at this place, and then proceed on to oure encampment, which was on
the S. side opposite to a high bluff. the Mandan man came up after we had
encamped and brought with him a woman who was extreemly solicitous to
accompany one of the men of our party, this however we positively refused
to permit.
From the upper point on an island (being the point to which Capt. Clark
took his last course when he assended the river in surch of a place for
winter quarters 1st November last) to a point of wood land Stard side,
passing a high bluff on the Lard. N 40° W. 31/2
[Clark, April 8, 1805]
8th of April Monday 1805 Set out verry early wind hard a head from the N.
W. proceeded on passed all the villages the inhabitents of which flocked
down in great numbers to view us, I took my leave of the great Chief of
the Mandans who gave me a par of excellent mockersons, one Canoe filed
with water every thing in her got wet. 2/3 of a barrel of powder lost by
this accedent.
Camped on the S. S. opsd. a high bluff an Indian joined us, also an Indian
woman with a view to accompany us, the woman was Sent back the man being
acquainted with the Countrey we allowed him to accompanie ns
[Lewis, April 9, 1805]
Tuesday April 9th Set out as early as it was possible to see this morning
and proceed about five miles where we halted and took beakfas — the
Indian man who had promised us to accompany us as far as the Snake
Indians, now informed us of his intention to relinquish the journey, and
accordingly returned to his village. we saw a great number of brant
passing up the river, some of them were white, except the large feathers
in the first and second joint of the wing which are black. there is no
other difference between them and the common gray brant but that of their
colour — their note and habits are the same, and they are freequently
seen to associate together. I have not yet positively determined whether
they are the same, or a different species. — Capt Clark walked on
shore to-day and informed me on his return, that passing through the
prarie he had seen an anamal that precisely resembled the burrowing
squrril, accept in point of size, it being only about one third as large
as the squirrel, and that it also burrows. I have observed in many parts
of the plains and praries the work of an anamal of which I could never
obtain a view. their work resembles that of the salamander common to the
sand hills of the States of South Carolina and Georgia; and like that
anamal also it never appears above the ground. the little hillocks which
are thrown up by these anamals have much the appearance of ten or twelve
pounds of loose earth poared out of a vessel on the surface of the plain.
in the state they leave them you can discover no whole through which they
throw out this earth; but by removing the loose earth gently you may
discover that the soil has been broken in a circle manner for about an
inch and a half in diameter, where it appears looser than the adjacent
surface, and is certainly the place through which the earth has been
thrown out, tho the operation is performed without leaving any visible
aperture. — the Bluffs of the river which we passed today were upwards
of a hundred feet high, formed of a mixture of yellow clay and sand — many
horizontal stratas of carbonated wood, having every appearance of pitcoal
at a distance; were seen in the the face of these bluffs. these stratas
are of unequal thicknesses from I to 5 feet, and appear at different
elivations above the water some of them as much as eighty feet. the hills
of the river are very broken and many of them have the apearance of having
been on fire at some former period. considerable quantities of pumice
stone and lava appear in many parts of these hills where they are broken
and washed down by the rain and melting snow. when we halted for dinner
the squaw busied herself in serching for the wild artichokes which the
mice collect and deposit in large hoards. this operation she performed by
penetrating the earth with a sharp stick about some small collections of
drift wood. her labour soon proved successful, and she procurrd a good
quantity of these roots. the flavor of this root resembles that of the
Jerusalem Artichoke, and the stalk of the weed which produces it is also
similar, tho both the root and stalk are much smaller than the Jarusalem
Artichoke. the root is white and of an ovate form, from one to three
inches in length and usually about the size of a man's finger. one stalk
produces from two to four, and somitimes six of these roots.
at the distance of 6 miles passed a large wintering or hunting camp of the
Minetares on the Stard. side. these lodges about thirty in number are
built of earth and timber in their usual stile. 21/4 miles higher we
passed the entrance of Miry Creek, which discharges itself on the Stard.
side. this creek is but small, takes it's rise in some small lakes near
the Mouse river and passes in it's course to the Missouri, through
beatifull, level, and fertile plains, intirely destitute of timber. — Three
miles above the mouth of this creek we passed a hunting camp of Minetares
who had prepared a park and were wating the return of the Antelope; which
usually pass the Missouri at this season of the year from the Black hills
on the South side, to the open plains on the north side of the river; in
like manner the Antelope repasses the Missouri from N. to South in the
latter end of Autumn, and winter in the black hills, where there is
considerable bodies of woodland. we proceed on 111/2 miles further and
encamped on the N. side in a most beatifull high extensive open bottom
[Clark, April 9, 1805]
9th of April Tuesday 1805. Set out this morning verry early under a gentle
breeze from the S. E. at Brackfast the Indian deturmined to return to his
nation. I saw a Musquetor to day great numbers of Brant flying up the
river, the Maple, & Elm has buded & Cotton and arrow wood
beginning to bud. I saw in the prarie an animal resembling the Prarie dog
or Barking Squirel & burrow in the Same way, this animal was about 1/3
as large as the barking Squirel. But fiew resident birds or water fowls
which I have Seen as yet at 6 miles passed an old hunting camp of
Menitarrees on the S. S. 21/2 miles higher passed the mouth of Miry Creek
on the S. S. passed a hunting Camp of Minetarees on the S. S. waiting the
return of the Antilope, Saw Great numbers of Gees feedin in the Praries on
the young grass, I saw flowers in the praries to day, juniper grows on the
Sides of the hills, & runs on the ground all the hills have more or
Less indefferent Coal in Stratias at different bites from the waters edge
to 80 feet. those Stratias from 1 inch to 5 feet thick. we Campd. on the
S. S. above some rocks makeing out in the river in a butifull ellivated
plain.
[Lewis, April 10, 1805]
Wednesday April 10th 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning at the
distance of three miles passed some Minetares who had assembled themselves
on the Lard shore to take a view of our little fleet. Capt Clark walked on
shore today, for several hours, when he returned he informed me that he
had seen a gang of Antelopes in the plains but was unable to get a shoot
at them he also saw some geese and swan. the geese are now feeding in
considerable numbers on the young grass which has sprung up in the bottom
prariesthe Musquetoes were very troublesome to us today. The country on
both sides of the missouri from the tops of the river hills, is one
continued level fertile plain as far as the eye can reach, in which there
is not even a solitary tree or shrub to be seen except such as from their
moist situations or the steep declivities of hills are sheltered from the
ravages of the fire. at the distance of 12 miles from our encampment of
last night we arrived at the lower point of a bluff on the Lard side;
about 11/2 miles down this bluff from this point, the bluff is now on fire
and throws out considerable quantities of smoke which has a strong
sulphurious smell. the appearance of the coal in the blufs continues as
yesterday. at 1 P.M. we overtook three french hunters who had set out a
few days before us with a view of traping beaver; they had taken 12 since
they left Fort Mandan. these people avail themselves of the protection
which our numbers will enable us to give them against the Assinniboins who
sometimes hunt on the Missouri and intend ascending with us as far as the
mouth of the Yellow stone river and continue there hunt up that river.
this is the first essay of a beaver hunter of any discription on this
river. the beaver these people have already taken is by far the best I
have ever seen. the river bottoms we have passed to-day are wider and
possess more timber than usualthe courant of the Missouri is but moderate,
at least not greater than that of the Ohio in high tide; it's banks are
falling in but little; the navigation is therefore comparitively with it's
lower portion easy and safe. — we encamped this evening on a willow
point, Stard. side just above a remarkable bend in the river to the S. W.
which we called the little bason.
[Clark, April 10, 1805]
10th of April Wednesday 1805 Set out verry early. the morning cool and no
wind proceeded on passed a camp of Inds. on the L. S. this day proved to
be verry worm, the Misquetors troublesom. I Saw Several Antilope on the S.
S. also gees & Swan, we over took 3 french men Trappers The countrey
to day as usial except that the points of Timber is larger than below, the
Coal Continue to day, one man Saw a hill on fire at no great distance from
the river, we camped on the S. S. just above a remarkable bend in the
river to the S W, which we call the little bacon.
[Lewis, April 11, 1805]
Thursday April 11th Set out at an early hour; I proceeded with the party
and Capt Clark with George Drewyer walked on shore in order to procure
some fresh meat if possible. we proceeded on abot five miles, and halted
for breakfast, when Capt Clark and Drewyer joined us; the latter had
killed, and brought with him a deer which was at this moment excepable as
we had had no fresh meat for several days. the country from fort Mandan to
this place is so constantly hunted by the Minetaries that there is but
little game we halted at two P.M. and made a comfortable dinner on a
venison stake and beavers tales with the bisquit which got wet on the 8th
inst. by the accidant of the canoe filling with water before mentioned.
the powder which got wet by the same accedent, and which we had spread to
dry on the baggage of the large perogue, was now examined and put up; it
appears to be almost restored, and our loss is therefore not so great as
we had at first apprehended. — the country much the same as yesterday.
on the sides of the hills and even the banks of the rivers and sandbars,
there is a white substance that appears in considerable quantities on the
surface of the earth, which tastes like a mixture of common salt and
glauber salts. many of the springs which flow from the base of the river
hills are so strongly impregnated with this substance that the water is
extreemly unpleasant to the taste and has a purgative effect. — saw
some large white cranes pass up the river- these are the largest bird of
that genus common to the country through which the Missouri and
Mississippi pass. they are perfectly white except the large feathers of
the two first joints of the wing which are black. we encamped this evening
on the Stard. shore just above the point of woodland which formed to
extremity of the last course of this day. there is a high bluff opposite
to us, under which we saw some Indians, but the river is here so wide that
we could not speake to them; suppose them to be a hunting party of
Minetares. — we killed two gees today.
[Clark, April 11, 1805]
11th of April Thursday 1805 Set out verry early I walked on Shore, Saw
fresh bear tracks, one deer & 2 beaver killed this morning in the
after part of the day killed two gees; Saw great numbers of Gees Brant
& Mallard Some White Cranes Swan & guls, the plains begin to have
a green appearance, the hills on either side are from 5 to 7 miles asunder
and in maney places have been burnt, appearing at a distance of a redish
brown choler, containing Pumic Stone & lava, Some of which rolin down
to the base of those hills — In maney of those hills forming bluffs to
the river we procieve Several Stratums of bituminious Substance which
resembles Coal; thong Some of the pieces appear to be excellent Coal it
resists the fire for Some time, and consumes without emiting much flaim.
The plains are high and rich Some of them are Sandy Containing Small
pebble, and on Some of the hill Sides large Stones are to be Seen — In
the evening late we observed a party of Me ne tar ras on the L. S. with
horses and dogs loaded going down, those are a part of the Menetarras who
camped a little above this with the Ossinniboins at the mouth of the
little Missouri all the latter part of the winter we Camped on the S. S.
below a falling in bank. the river raise a little.
[Lewis, April 12, 1805]
Friday April the 12th 1805. Set out at an early hour. our peroge and the
Canoes passed over to the Lard side in order to avoid a bank which was
rappidly falling in on the Stard. the red perogue contrary to my
expectation or wish passed under this bank by means of her toe line where
I expected to have seen her carried under every instant. I did not
discover that she was about to make this attempt untill it was too late
for the men to reembark, and retreating is more dangerous than proceeding
in such cases; they therefore continued their passage up this bank, and
much to my satisfaction arrived safe above it. this cost me some moments
of uneasiness, her cargo was of much importance to us in our present
advanced situation — We proceeded on six miles and came too on the
lower side of the entrance of the little Missouri on the Lard shore in a
fine plain where we determined to spend the day for the purpose of
celestial observation. we sent out 10 hunters to procure some fresh meat.
at this place made the following observations.
The night proved so cloudy that I could make no further observations.
George Drewyer shot a Beaver this morning, which we found swiming in the
river a small distance below the entrance of the little Missouri. the
beaver being seen in the day, is a proof that they have been but little
hunted, as they always keep themselves closly concealed during the day
where they are so. — found a great quantity of small onions in the
plain where we encamped; had some of them collected and cooked, found them
agreeable. the bulb grows single, is of an oval form, white, and about the
size of a small bullet; the leaf resembles that of the shive, and the
hunters returned this eying with one deer only. the country about the
mouth of this river had been recently hunted by the Minetares, and the
little game which they had not killed and frightened away, was so
extreemly shy that the hunters could not get in shoot of them.
The little Missouri disembogues on the S. side of the Missouri 1693 miles
from the confluence of the latter with the Mississippi. it is 134 yards
wide at it's mouth, and sets in with a bould current but it's greatest
debth is not more than 21/2 feet. it's navigation is extreemly difficult,
owing to it's rapidity, shoals and sand bars. it may however be navigated
with small canoes a considerable distance. this river passes through the
Northern extremity of the black hills where it is very narrow and rapid
and it's banks high an perpendicular. it takes it's rise in a broken
country West of the Black hills with the waters of the yellow stone river,
and a considerable distance S. W. of the point at which it passes the
black hills. the country through which it passes is generally broken and
the highlands possess but little timber. there is some timber in it's
bottom lands, which consists of Cottonwood red Elm, with a small
proportion of small Ash and box alder. the under brush is willow, red
wood, (sometimes called red or swamp willow-) the red burry, and Choke
cherry the country is extreamly broken about the mouth of this river, and
as far up on both sides, as we could observe it from the tops of some
elivated hills, which stand betwen these two rivers, about 3 miles from
their junction. the soil appears fertile and deep, it consists generally
of a dark rich loam intermixed with a small proportion of fine sand. this
river in it's course passed near the N. W. side of the turtle mountain,
which is said to be no more than 4 or 5 leagues distant from it's entrance
in a straight direction, a little to the S. of West. — this mountain
and the knife river have therefore been laid down too far S. W. the colour
of the water, the bed of the river, and it's appearance in every respect,
resembles the Missouri; I am therefore induced to believe that the texture
of the soil of the country in which it takes it's rise, and that through
which it passes, is similar to the country through which the Missouri
passes after leaving the woody country, or such as we are now in. — on
the side of a hill not distant from our camp I found some of the dwarf
cedar of which I preserved a specimen (See No. 2). this plant spreads it's
limbs alonge the surface of the earth, where they are sometimes covered,
and always put forth a number of roots on the under side, while on the
upper there are a great number of small shoots which with their leaves
seldom rise higher than 6 or eight inches. they grow so close as perfectly
to conceal the eath. it is an evergreen; the leaf is much more delicate
than the common Cedar, and it's taste and smell the same. I have often
thought that this plant would make very handsome edgings to the borders
and walks of a garden; it is quite as handsom as box, and would be much
more easily propegated. — the appearance of the glauber salts and
Carbonated wood still continue.
[Clark, April 12, 1805]
12th April Friday 1805 a fine morning Set out verry early, the murcery
Stood 56° above 0. proceeded on to the mouth of the Little Missouri river
and formed a Camp in a butifull elivated plain on the lower Side for the
purpose of takeing Some observations to fix the Latitude & Longitude
of this river. this river falls in on the L. Side and is 134 yards wide
and 2 feet 6 Inches deep at the mouth, it takes its rise in the N W
extremity of the black mountains, and through a broken countrey in its
whole course washing the N W base of the Turtle Mountain which is Situated
about 6 Leagues S W of its mouth, one of our men Baptiest who came down
this river in a canoe informs me that it is not navagable, he was 45 days
descending.
One of our men Shot a beaver Swimming below the mouth of this river.
I walked out on the lower Side of this river and found the countrey hilley
the Soil composed of black mole & a Small perportion of Sand
containing great quantity of Small peable Some limestone, black flint,
& Sand Stone I killed a Hare Changeing its Colour Some parts retaining
its long white fur & other parts assumeing the Short grey, I Saw the
Magpie in pars, flocks of Grouse, the old field lark & Crows, &
observed the leaf of the wild Chery half grown, many flowers are to be
seen in the plains, remains of Minetarra & Ossinneboin hunting Camps
are to be Seen on each Side of the two Missouris
The wind blew verry hard from the S. all the after part of the day, at 3
oClock P M. it became violent & flowey accompanied with thunder and a
little rain. We examined our canoes &c found Several mice which had
already commenced cutting our bags of corn & parched meal, the water
of the little Missouri is of the Same texture Colour & quallity of
that of the Big Missouri the after part of the day so Cloudy that we lost
the evening observation.
[Lewis, April 13, 1805]
Saturday April 13th Being disappointed in my observations of yesterday for
Longitude, I was unwilling to remain at the entrance of the river another
day for that purpose, and therefore determined to set out early this
morning; which we did accordingly; the wind was in our favour after 9 A.M.
and continued favourable untill three 3 P.M. we therefore hoisted both the
sails in the White Perogue, consisting of a small squar sail, and
spritsail, which carried her at a pretty good gate, untill about 2 in the
afternoon when a suddon squall of wind struck us and turned the perogue so
much on the side as to allarm Sharbono who was steering at the time, in
this state of alarm he threw the perogue with her side to the wind, when
the spritsail gibing was as near overseting the perogue as it was possible
to have missed. the wind however abating for an instant I ordered Drewyer
to the helm and the sails to be taken in, which was instant executed and
the perogue being steered before the wind was agin placed in a state of
security. this accedent was very near costing us dearly. beleiving this
vessell to be the most steady and safe, we had embarked on board of it our
instruments, Papers, medicine and the most valuable part of the
merchandize which we had still in reserve as presents for the Indians. we
had also embarked on board ourselves, with three men who could not swim
and the squaw with the young child, all of whom, had the perogue overset,
would most probably have perished, as the waves were high, and the perogue
upwards of 200 yards from the nearest shore; however we fortunately
escaped and pursued our journey under the square sail, which shortly after
the accident I directed to be again hoisted. our party caught three beaver
last evening; and the French hunters 7. as there was much appearance of
beaver just above the entrance of the little Missouri these hunters
concluded to remain some days; we therefore left them without the
expectation of seeing them again. — just above the entrance of the
Little Missouri the great Missouri is upwards of a mile in width, tho
immediately at the entrance of the former it is not more than 200 yards
wide and so shallow that the canoes passed it with seting poles. at the
distance of nine miles passed the mouth of a creek on the Stard. side
which we called onion creek from the quantity of wild onions which grow in
the plains on it's borders. Capt. Clark who was on shore informed me that
this creek was 16 yards wide a mile & a half above it's entrance,
discharges more water than creeks of it's size usually do in this open
country, and that there was not a stick of timber of any discription to be
seen on it's borders, or the level plain country through which it passes.
at the distance of 10 miles further we passed the mouth of a large creek;
discharging itself in the center of a deep bend. of this creek and the
neighbouring country, Capt Clark who was on shore gave me the following
discription "This creek I took to be a small river from it's size, and the
quantity of water which it discharged. I ascended it 11/2 miles, and found
it the discharge of a pond or small lake, which had the appearance of
having formerly been the bed of the Missouri. several small streems
discharge themselves into this lake. the country on both sides consists of
beautifull level and elivated plains; asscending as they recede from the
Missouri; there were a great number of Swan and gees in this lake and near
it's borders I saw the remains of 43 temperary Indian lodges, which I
presume were those of the Assinniboins who are now in the neighbourhood of
the British establishments on the Assinniboin river. This lake and it's
discharge we call Boos Egg from the circumstance of Capt Clark shooting a
goose while on her nest in the top of a lofty cotton wood tree, from which
we afterwards took one egg. the wild gees frequently build their nests in
this manner, at least we have already found several in trees, nor have we
as yet seen any on the ground, or sand bars where I had supposed from
previous information that they most commonly deposited their eggs. saw
some Bufhaloe and Elk at a distance today but killed none of them. we
found a number of carcases of the Buffaloe lying along shore, which had
been drowned by falling through the ice in winter and lodged on shore by
the high water when the river broke up about the first of this month. we
saw also many tracks of the white bear of enormous size, along the river
shore and about the carcases of the Buffaloe, on which I presume they
feed. we have not as yet seen one of these anamals, tho their tracks are
so abundant and recent. the men as well as ourselves are anxious to meet
with some of these bear. the Indians give a very formidable account of the
strengh and ferocity of this anamal, which they never dare to attack but
in parties of six eight or ten persons; and are even then frequently
defeated with the loss of one or more of their party. the savages attack
this anamal with their bows and arrows and the indifferent guns with which
the traders furnish them, with these they shoot with such uncertainty and
at so short a distance, that they frequently mis their aim & fall a
sacrefice to the bear. two Minetaries were killed during the last winter
in an attack on a white bear. this anamall is said more frequently to
attack a man on meeting with him, than to flee from him. When the Indians
are about to go in quest of the white bear, previous to their departure,
they paint themselves and perform all those superstitious rights commonly
observed when they are about to make war uppon a neighbouring nation.
Oserved more bald eagles on this part of the Missouri than we have
previously seen saw the small hawk, frequently called the sparrow hawk,
which is common to most parts of the U States. great quantities of gees
are seen feeding in the praries. saw a large flock of white brant or gees
with black wings pass up the river; there were a number of gray brant with
them; from their flight I presume they proceed much further still to the
N. W. — we have never been enabled yet to shoot one of these birds,
and cannot therefore determine whether the gray brant found with the white
are their brude of the last year or whether they are the same with the
grey brant common to the Mississippi and lower part of the Missouri. — we
killed 2 Antelopes today which we found swiming from the S. to the N. side
of the river; they were very poor. — We encamped this evening on the
Stard. shore in a beautiful) plain, elivated about 30 feet above the
river.
[Clark, April 13, 1805]
13th of April Satturday 1805 Set out this morning at 6 oClock, the
Missouri above the mouth of Little Missouri widens to nearly a mile
containing a number of Sand bars this width &c. of the River Continues
Generally as high as the Rochejhone River.
Cought 3 beaver this morning, at 9 miles passd. the mouth of a Creek on
the S. S. on the banks of which there is an imence quantity of wild onions
or garlick, I was up this Creek 1/2 a m. and could not See one Stick of
timber of any kind on its borders, this creek is 16 yds wide 1/2 a mile up
it and discharges more water than is common for Creeks of its Size. at
about 10 miles higher we pass a Creek about 30 yards wide in a deep bend
to the N W. This creek I took to be a Small river from its Size & the
quantity of water which it discharged, I ascended it 11/2 mes and found it
the discharge of a pond or Small Lake which has appearance of haveing been
once the bead of the river, Some Small Streams discharge themselves into
this Lake. the Countery on both Side is butifull elevated plains assending
in Some parts to a great distance near the aforesaid Lake (which we call
Goose egg L from a Circumstance of my Shooting a goose on her neast on
Some Sticks in the top of a high Cotton wood tree in which there was one
egg) We Saw 8 buffalow at a distance, We also Saw Several herds of Elk at
a distance which were verry wild, I Saw near the Lake the remains of 43
lodges, which has latterly been abandond I Suppose them to have been
Ossinniboins and now near the british establishments on the Ossinniboin
River tradeing. we camped on the S. S. in a butifull Plain. I observe more
bald Eagles on this part of the Missouri than usial also a Small Hawk
Killed 2 Antelopes in the river to day emence numbers of Geese to be seen
pared &c. a Gange of brant pass one half of the gange white with black
wings or the large feathers of the 1 s & 2d joint the remds. of the
comn. color. a voice much like that of a goos & finer &c.
[Lewis, April 14, 1805]
Sunday April 14th 1805. One of the hunters saw an Otter last evening and
shot at it, but missed it. a dog came to us this morning, which we
supposed to have been lost by the Indians who were recently encamped near
the lake that we passed yesterday. the mineral appearances of salts, coal
and sulpher, together with birnt hills & pumicestone still continue. — while
we remained at the entrance of the little Missouri, we saw several pieces
of pumice stone floating down that stream, a considerable quanty of which
had lodged against a point of drift wood a little above it's entrance.
Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning, and on his return informed me
that he had passed through the timbered bottoms on the N. side of the
river, and had extended his walk several miles back on the hills; in the
bottom lands he had met with several uninhabited Indian lodges built with
the boughs of the Elm, and in the plains he met with the remains of two
large encampments of a recent date, which from the appearance of some
hoops of small kegs, seen near them we concluded that they must have been
the camps of the Assinniboins, as no other nation who visit this part of
the missouri ever indulge themselves with spirituous liquor. of this
article the Assinniboins are pationately fond, and we are informed that it
forms their principal inducement to furnish the British establishments on
the Assinniboin river with the dryed and pounded meat and grease which
they do. they also supply those establishments with a small quantity of
fur, consisting principally of the large and small wolves and the small
fox skins. these they barter for small kegs of ruin which they generally
transport to their camps at a distance from the establishments, where they
revel with their friends and relations as long as they possess the means
of intoxication, their women and children are equally indulged on those
occations and are all seen drunk together. so far is a state of
intoxication from being a cause of reproach among them, that with the men,
it is a matter of exultation that their skill and industry as hunters has
enabled them to get drunk frequently. in their customs, habits, and
dispositions these people very much resemble the Siouxs from whom they
have descended. The principal inducement with the British fur companies,
for continuing their establishments on the Assinniboin river, is the
Buffaloe meat and grease they procure from the Assinniboins, and
Christanoes, by means of which, they are enabled to supply provision to
their engages on their return from rainy Lake to the English river and the
Athabaskey country where they winter; without such resource those voyagers
would frequently be straitened for provision, as the country through which
they pass is but scantily supplyed with game, and the rappidity with which
they are compelled to travel in order to reach their winter stations,
would leave therm but little leasure to surch for food while on their
voyage.
The Assinniboins have so recently left this neighbourhood, that the game
is scarce and very shy. the river continues wide, and not more rapid than
the Ohio in an averge state of it's current. the bottoms are wide and low,
the moister parts containing some timber; the upland is extreemly broken,
chonsisting of high gaulded nobs as far as the eye can reach on ether
side, and entirely destitute of timber. on these hills many aromatic herbs
are seen; resembling in taste, smel and appearance, the sage, hysop,
wormwood, southernwood and two other herbs which are strangers to me; the
one resembling the camphor in taste and smell, rising to the hight of 2 or
3 feet; the other about the same size, has a long, narrow, smooth, soft
leaf of an agreeable smel and flavor; of this last the Atelope is very
fond; they feed on it, and perfume the hair of their foreheads and necks
with it by rubing against it. the dwarf cedar and juniper is also found in
great abundance on the sides of these hills. where the land is level, it
is uniformly fertile consisting of a dark loam intermixed with a
proportion of fine sand. it is generally covered with a short grass
resembling very much the blue grass. — the miniral appearances still
continue; considerable quantities of bitumenous water, about the colour of
strong lye trickles down the sides of the hills; this water partakes of
the taste of glauber salts and slightly of allumn. — while the party
halted to take dinner today Capt Clark killed a buffaloe bull; it was
meagre, and we therefore took the marrow bones and a small proportion of
the meat only. near the place we dined on the Lard. side, there was a
large village of burrowing squirrels. I have remarked that these anamals
generally celect a South Easterly exposure for their residence, tho they
are sometimes found in the level plains. — passed an Island, above
which two small creeks fall in on Lard side; the upper creek largest,
which we called Sharbono's Creek after our interpreter who encamped
several weeks on it with a hunting party of Indians. this was the highest
point to which any whiteman had ever ascended; except two Frenchmen who
having lost their way had straggled a few miles further, tho to what place
precisely I could not learn. — I walked on shore above this creek and
killed an Elk, which was so poor that it was unfit for uce; I therefore
left it, and joined the party at their encampment on the Stard shore a
little after dark. on my arrival Capt Clark informed me that he had seen
two white bear pass over the hills shortly after I fired, and that they
appeared to run nearly from the place where I shot. the lard. shore on
which I walked was very broken, and the hills in many places had the
appearance of having sliped down in masses of several acres of land in
surface. — we saw many gees feeding on the tender grass in the praries
and several of their nests in the trees; we have not in a single instance
found the nest of this bird on or near the ground. we saw a number of
Magpies their nests and eggs. their nests are built in trees and composed
of small sticks leaves and grass, open at top, and much in the stile of
the large blackbird comm to the U States. the egg is of a bluish brown
colour, freckled with redish brown spots. one of the party killed a large
hooting owl. I observed no difference between this burd and those of the
same family common to the U States, except that this appeared to be more
booted and more thickly clad with feathers.
[Clark, April 14, 1805]
14th of April Sunday 1805. a fine morning, a dog came to us this morning
we Suppose him to be left by the Inds. who had their camps near the Lake
we passd. yesterday not long Sence, I observed Several Single Lodges built
of Stiks of cotten timber in different parts of the bottoms. in my walk of
this day which was through the wooded bottoms and on the hills for several
miles back from the river on the S. S. I Saw the remains of two Indian
incampments with wide beeten tracks leading to them. those were no doubt
the Camps of the Ossinnaboin Indians (a Strong evidence is hoops of Small
Kegs were found in the incampments) no other nation on the river above the
Sioux make use of Spiritious licquer, the Ossinniboins is said to be
pasionately fond of Licquer, and is the principal inducement to their
putting themselves to the trouble of Catching the fiew wolves and foxes
which they furnish, and recive their liquor always in small Kegs. The
Ossinniboins make use of the Same kind of Lodges which the Sioux and other
Indians on this river make use of — Those lodges or tents are made of
a number of dressed buffalow Skins Sowed together with Sinues &
deckerated with the tales, & Porcupine quils, when open it forms a
half circle with a part about 4 Inches wide projecting about 8 or 9 Inches
from the center of the Streight Side for the purpose of attaching it to a
pole to it the hight they wish to raise the tent, when they errect this
tent four poles of equal length are tied near one end, those poles are
elevated and 8 10 or 12 other poles are anexed forming a Circle at the
ground and lodging in the forks of the four attached poles, the tents are
then raised, by attach the projecting part to a pole and incumpassing the
poles with the tent by bringing the two ends together and attached with a
Cord, or laied as high as is necessary, leaveing the lower part open for
about 4 feet for to pass in & out, and the top is generally left open
to admit the Smoke to pass — The Borders of the river has been So much
hunted by those Indians who must have left it about 8 or 10 days past and
I prosume are now in the neighbourhood of British establishments on the
Osinniboin; the game is Scerce and verry wild. The River Continues wide
and the current jentle not more rapid than the Current of the Ohio in
middle State — The bottoms are wide and low and the moist parts of
them Contain Som wood such as cotton Elm & Small ash, willow rose
bushes &c. &c. &. next to the hills Great quantity of wild
Isoop, the hills are high broken in every direction, and the mineral
appearance of Salts Continue to appear in a greater perportion, also
Sulpher, Coal & bitumous water in a Smaller quantity, I have observed
but five burnt hills, about the little Missouri, and I have not Seen any
pumey stone above that River I Saw Buffalow on the L. S. Crossed and
dureing the time of dinner killed a Bull, which was pore, we made use of
the best of it, I Saw a village of Burrowing dogs on the L. S. passed a
Island above which two Small Creeks falls in on the L. S. the upper of
which is the largest and we call Shabonas Creek after our interpreter who
incamped several weeks on this Creek and is the highest point on the
Missouri to which a white man has been previous to this time. Capt. Lewis
walked out above this creek and killed an Elk which he found So meager
that it was not fit for use, and joined the boat at Dusk at our Camp on
the S. S. opposit a high hill Several parts of which had Sliped down. on
the Side of those hills we Saw two white bear running from the report of
Capt. Lewis Shot, those animals assended those Steep hills with Supprising
ease & verlocity. they were too far to discover their prosise Colour
& Size — Saw Several gees nests on trees, also the nests & egs
of the Magpies, a large grey owl killed, booted & with ears &c.
[Lewis, April 15, 1805]
Monday April 15th 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning. I walked on
shore, and Capt. Clark continued with the party it being an invariable
rule with us not to be both absent from our vessels at the same time. I
passed through the bottoms of the river on the Stard. side. they were
partially covered with timber & were extensive, level and beatifull.
in my walk which was about 6 miles I passed a small rivulet of clear water
making down from the hills, which on tasting, I discovered to be in a
small degree brackish. it possessed less of the glauber salt, or alumn,
than those little streams from the hills usually do. — in a little
pond of water fromed by this rivulet where it entered the bottom, I heard
the frogs crying for the first time this season; their note was the same
with that of the small frogs which are common to the lagoons and swamps of
the U States. — I saw great quantities of gees feeding in the bottoms,
of which I shot one. saw some deer and Elk, but they were remarkably shy.
I also met with great numbers of Grouse or prarie hens as they are called
by the English traders of the N. W. these birds appeared to be mating; the
note of the male is kuck, kuck, kuck, coo, coo, coo. the first part of the
note both male and female use when flying. the male also dubbs something
like the pheasant, but by no means as loud. after breakfast Capt. Clark
walked on the Std. shore, and on his return in the evening gave me the
following account of his ramble. "I ascended to the high country, about 9
miles distant from the Missouri. the country consists of beatifull, level
and fertile plains, destitute of timber I saw many little dranes, which
took their rise in the river hills, from whence as far as I could see they
run to the N. E." these streams we suppose to be the waters of Mous river
a branch of the Assinniboin which the Indians informed us approaches the
Missouri very nearly, about this point. "I passed," continued he, "a Creek
about 20 yards wide," which falls into the Missouri; the bottoms of this
creek are wide level and extreemly fertile, but almost entirely destitute
of timber. the water of this creek as well as all those creeks and
rivulets which we have passed since we left Fort Mandan was so strongly
impregnated with salts and other miniral substances that I was incapable
of drinking it. I saw the remains of several camps of the Assinniboins;
near one of which, in a small ravene, there was a park which they had
formed of timber and brush, for the purpose of taking the Cabrie or
Antelope. it was constructed in the following manner. a strong pound was
first made of timbers, on one side of which there was a small apparture,
sufficiently large to admit an Antelope; from each side of this apparture,
a curtain was extended to a considerable distance, widening as they
receded from the pound. — we passed a rock this evening standing in
the middle of the river, and the bed of the river was formed principally
of gravel. we encamped this evening on a sand point on Lard. side. a
little above our encampment the river was confined to a channel of 80
yards in width.
[Clark, April 15, 1805]
15th of April Monday 1805 Set out at an early hour, Captn Lewis walked on
Shore and Killed a goose, passed a Island in a bend to the L. S. the wind
hard from the S. E. after brackfast I walked on Shore and assended to the
high Countrey on the S. S. and off from the Missouri about three miles the
countrey is butifull open fertile plain the dreans take theer rise near
the Clifts of the river and run from the river in a N E derection as far
as I could See, this is the part of the River which Mouse river the waters
of Lake Winnipec approaches within a fiew miles of Missouri, and I believe
those dreans lead into that river. we passed a creek about 20 yds. wide on
the S. S. the bottoms of this Creek is extensive & fertile, the water
of this as also, all the Streams which head a fiew miles in the hills
discharge water which is black & unfit for use (and can Safely Say
that I have not Seen one drop of water fit for use above fort Mandan
except Knife and the little Missouris Rivers and the Missouri, the other
Streams being So much impregnated with mineral as to be verry disagreeble
in its present State.) I saw the remains of Several Camps of ossinniboins,
near one of those camps & at no great distance from the mouth of the
aforesid Creek, in a hollow, I saw a large Strong pen made for the purpose
of Catching the antelope, with wings projecting from it widining from the
pen
Saw Several gangs of Buffalow and Some elk at a distance, a black bear
Seen from the Perogues to day — passed a rock in the Middle of the
river, Some Smaller rocks from that to the L. Shore, the dog that came to
us yesterday morning continues to follow us, we camped on a Sand point to
the L. S.
[Lewis, April 16, 1805]
Tuesday April 16th 1805. Set out very early this morning. Capt. Clark
walked on Shore this morning, and killed an Antelope, rejoined us at 1/2
after eight A.M. he informed me that he had seen many Buffaloe Elk and
deer in his absence, and that he had met with a great number of old
hornets nests in the woody bottoms through which he had passed. — the
hills of the river still continue extreemly broken for a few miles back,
when it becomes a fine level country of open fertile lands immediately on
the river there are many fine leavel extensive and extreemly fertile high
plains and meadows. I think the quantity of timbered land on the river is
increasing. the mineral appearances still continue. I met with several
stones today that had the appearance of wood first carbonated and then
petrefyed by the water of the river, which I have discovered has that
effect on many vegitable substances when exposed to it's influence for a
length of time. l believe it to be the stratas of Coal seen in those hills
which causes the fire and birnt appearances frequently met with in this
quarter. where those birnt appearances are to be seen in the face of the
river bluffs, the coal is seldom seen, and when you meet with it in the
neighbourhood of the stratas of birnt earth, the coal appears to be
presisely at the same hight, and is nearly of the same thickness, togeter
with the sand and a sulphurious substance which ususually accompanys it.
there was a remarkable large beaver caught by one of the party last night.
these anamals are now very abundant. I have met with several trees which
have been felled by them 20 Inches in diameter. bark is their only food;
and they appear to prefer that of the Cotton wood and willow; as we have
never met with any other species of timber on the Missouri which had the
appearance of being cut by them. — we passed three small creeks on the
Stard. side. they take their rise in the river hills at no great distance.
we saw a great number of geese today, both in the plains and on the river — I
have observed but few ducks, those we have met with are the Mallard and
blue winged Teal
[Clark, April 16, 1805]
16th of April Tuesday 1805 Wind hard from the S. E I walked on Shore and
Killed an antilope which was verry meagre, Saw great numbers of Elk &
some buffalow & Deer, a verry large Beaver Cought this morning. Some
verry handsom high planes & extensive bottoms, the mineral appearances
of Coal & Salt together with Some appearance of Burnt hils continue. a
number of old hornets nests Seen in every bottom more perticularly in the
one opposit to the place we camped this night — the wooded bottoms are
more extensive to day than Common. passed three Small Creeks on the S. S.
to day which take their rise in the hills at no great distance, Great
numbers of Gees in the river & in the Plains feeding on the Grass.
[Lewis, April 17, 1805]
Wednesday April 17th 1805. A delightfull morning, set out at an erly hour.
the country though which we passed to (lay was much the same as that
discribed of yesterday; there wase more appearance of birnt hills,
furnishing large quanties of lava and pumice stone, of the latter some
pieces were seen floating down the river. Capt. Clark walked on shore this
morning on the Stard. side, and did not join us untill half after six in
the evening. he informed me that he had seen the remains of the
Assinniboin encampments in every point of woodland through which he had
passed. we saw immence quantities of game in every direction around us as
we passed up the river; consisting of herds of Buffaloe, Elk, and
Antelopes with some deer and woolves. tho we continue to see many tracks
of the bear we have seen but very few of them, and those are at a great
distance generally runing from us; I thefore presume that they are
extreemly wary and shy; the Indian account of them dose not corrispond
with our experience so far. one black bear passed near the perogues on the
16th and was seen by myself and the party but he so quickly disappeared
that we did not shoot at him. — at the place we halted to dine on the
Lard. side we met with a herd of buffaloe of which I killed the fatest as
I concieved among them, however on examining it I found it so poar that I
thought it unfit for uce and only took the tongue; the party killed
another which was still more lean. just before we encamped this evening we
saw some tracks of Indians who had passed about 24 hours; they left four
rafts of timber on the Stard. side, on which they had passed. we supposed
them to have been a party of the Assinniboins who had been to war against
the rocky mountain Indians, and then on their return. Capt. Clark saw a
Curlou today. there were three beaver taken this morning by the party. the
men prefer the flesh of this anamal, to that of any other which we have,
or are able to procure at this moment. I eat very heartily of the beaver
myself, and think it excellent; particularly the tale, and liver. we had a
fair wind today which enabled us to sail the greater part of the distance
we have travled, encamped on the Lard shore the extremity of the last
course
[Clark, April 17, 1805]
17th of April Wednesday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S E. Genly to
day handsom high extencive rich Plains on each Side, the mineral
appearances continue with greater appearances of Coal, much greater
appearance of the hills haveing been burnt, more Pumice Stone & Lava
washed down to the bottoms and some Pumice Stone floating in the river, I
walked on the S. S. Saw great numbs. of Buffalow feeding in the Plains at
a distance Capt. Lewis killed 2 Buffalow buls which was near the water at
the time of dineing, they were So pore as to be unfit for use. I Saw
Several Small parties of antelopes large herds of Elk, Some white wolves,
and in a pond (formed on the S. S. by the Missouries Changeing its bead) I
Saw Swan Gees & different kinds of Ducks in great numbers also a
Beaver house. Passed a Small Creek on the S. S. & Several runs of
water on each Side, Saw the remains of Indian camps in every point of
timbered land on the S. S. in the evining a thunder gust passed from the S
W, without rain, about Sunset Saw Some fresh Indians track and four rafts
on the shore S. S. Those I prosume were Ossinniboins who had been on a war
party against the Rockey Mountain Indians — Saw a Curlow, Some verry
large beaver taken this morning. those animals are made use of as food and
preferred by the party to any other at this Season
[Lewis, April 18, 1805]
Thursday April 18th 1805. A fine morning, set out at an early hour. one
Beaver caught this morning by two traps, having a foot in each; the traps
belonged to different individuals, between whom, a contest ensued, which
would have terminated, most probably, in a serious rencounter had not our
timely arrival at the place prevented it. after breakfast this morning,
Capt. Clark walked on Stad. shore, while the party were assending by means
of their toe lines, I walked with them on the bank; found a species of pea
bearing a yellow flower, and now in blume; it seldom rises more than 6
inches high, the leaf & stalk resembles that of the common gardin pea,
the root is pirenial. (See specimen of vegitables No. 3.) I also saw
several parsels of buffaloe's hair hanging on the rose bushes, which had
been bleached by exposure to the weather and became perfectly white. it
every appearance of the wool of the sheep, tho much finer and more silkey
and soft. I am confident that an excellent cloth may be made of the wool
of the Buffaloe. the Buffaloe I killed yesterday had cast his long hare,
and the poll which remained was very thick, fine, and about 2 inches in
length. I think this anamal would have furnished about five pounds of
wool. we were detained today from one to five P.M. in consequence of the
wind which blew so violently from N. that it was with difficulty we could
keep the canoes from filling with water altho they were along shore; I had
them secured by placing the perogues on the out side of them in such
manner as to break the waves off them. at 5 we proceed, and shortly after
met with Capt. Clark, who had killed an Elk and a deer and was wating our
arrival. we took the meat on board and continued our march untill nearly
dark when we came too on the Stard side under a boald welltimbered bank
which sheltered us from the wind which had abated but not yet ceased. here
we encamped, it being the extremity of the last course of this day.
[Clark, April 18, 1805]
18th of April Thursday 1805 Set out at an early hour one Beaver & a
Musrat Cought this morning, the beaver cought in two traps, which like to
have brought about a missunderstanding between two of the party &c.
after brackfast I assended a hill and observed that the river made a great
bend to the South, I concluded to walk thro the point about 2 miles and
take Shabono, with me, he had taken a dost of Salts &c. his Squar
followed on with his child, when I Struck the next bend of the river could
See nothing of the Party, left this man & his wife & Child on the
river bank and went out to hunt, Killed a young Buck Elk, & a Deer,
the Elk was tolerable meat, the Deer verry pore, Butcherd the meat and
Continued untill near Sunset before Capt Lewis and the party Came up, they
were detained by the wind, which rose Soon after I left the boat from the
N W. & blew verry hard untill verry late in the evening. we Camped on
the S. S. in an excellent harbor, Soon after We came too, two men went up
the river to Set their beaver traps they met with a Bear and being without
their arms thought prodent to return &c. the wild Cheries are in
bloom, Great appearance of Burnt hills Pumice Stone &c. the Coal &
Salt appearance Continued, the water in the Small runs much better than
below, — Saw Several old Indian Camps, the game, Such as Buffalow Elk,
antelopes & Deer verry plenty
[Lewis, April 19, 1805]
Friday April 19th 1805. The wind blew So hard this morning from N. W. that
we dared not to venture our canoes on the river. — Observed
considerable quantities of dwarf Juniper on the hillsides (see specimen
No. 4) it seldom rises higher then 3 feet. — the wind detained us
through the couse of this day, tho we were fortunate in having placed
ourselves in a safe harbour. the party killed one Elk and a beaver today.
The beaver of this part of the Missouri are larger, fatter, more abundant
and better clad with fur than those of any other part of the country that
I have yet seen; I have remarked also that their fur is much darker.
[Clark, April 19, 1805]
19th of April Friday 1805 a blustering windey day the wind So hard from
the N, W. that we were fearfull of ventering our Canoes in the river, lay
by all day on the S. Side in a good harber, the Praries appear to green,
the cotton trees bigin to leave, Saw some plumb bushes in full bloom,
those were the plumb bushes which I have Seen for Some time. Killed an Elk
an a Beaver to day — The beaver of this river is much larger than
usial, Great deal of Sign of the large Bear,
[Lewis, April 20, 1805]
Saturday April 20th 1805. The wind continued to blow tolerably hard this
morning but by no means as violently as it (lid yesterday; we determined
to set out and accordingly departed a little before seven. I walked on
shore on the N. side of the river, and Capt Clark proceeded with the
party. the river bottoms through which I passed about seven miles were
fertil and well covered with Cottonwood some Box alder, ash and red Elm.
the under brush, willow, rose bushes Honeysuccle, red willow, goosbury,
currant and servicebury & in the open grounds along the foot of the
river hills immence quantities of the hisop. in the course of my walk I
killed two deer, wounded an Elk and a deer; saw the remains of some Indian
hunting camps, near which stood a small scaffold of about 7 feet high on
which were deposited two doog slays with their harnis. underneath this
scaffold a human body was lying, well rolled in several dressed buffaloe
skins and near it a bag of the same materials containg sundry articles
belonging to the disceased; consisting of a pare of mockersons, some red
and blue earth, beaver's nails, instruments for dressing the Buffalo skin,
some dryed roots, several platts of the sweet grass, and a small quantity
of Mandan tobacco. — I presume that the body, as well as the bag
containing these articles, had formerly been placed on the scaffold as is
the custom of these people, but had fallen down by accedent. near the
scaffold I saw the carcase of a large dog not yet decayed, which I
supposed had been killed at the time the human body was left on the
scaffold; this was no doubt the reward, which the poor doog had met with
for performing the ____-friendly office to his mistres of transporting her
corps to the place of deposit. it is customary with the Assinniboins,
Mandans, Minetares &c who scaffold their dead, to sacrefice the
favorite horses and doggs of their disceased relations, with a view of
their being servicable to them in the land of sperits. I have never heard
of any instances of human sacrefices on those occasions among them.
The wind blew so hard that I concluded it was impossible fror the perogues
and canoes to proceed and therefore returned and joined them about three
in the evening. Capt. Clark informed me that soon after seting out, a part
of the bank of the river fell in near one of the canoes and had very
nearly filled her with water. that the wind became so hard and the waves
so high that it was with infinite risk he had been able to get as far as
his present station. the white perrogue and several of the canoes had
shiped water several times but happily our stores were but little injured;
those which were wet we put out to dry and determined to remain untill the
next morning. we sent out four hunters who soon added 3 Elk 4 gees and 2
deer to our stock of provisions. the party caught six beaver today which
were large and in fine order. the Buffaloe, Elk and deer are poor at this
season, and of tours are not very palitable, however our good health and
apetites make up every necessary deficiency, and we eat very heartily of
them. encamped on Stard side; under a high well timbered bank.
[Clark, April 20, 1805]
20th of April Satturday 1805 wind a head from the N W. we Set out at 7
oClock proceeded on, Soon after we Set out a Bank fell in near one of the
Canoes which like to have filled her with water, the wind became hard and
waves So rought that we proceeded with our little Canoes with much risque,
our Situation was Such after Setting out that we were obliged to pass
round the 1st Point or lay exposed to the blustering winds & waves, in
passing round the Point Several canoes took in water as also our large
Perogue but without injuring our Stores & much I proceeded on to the
upper part of the 1st bend and came too at a butifull Glade on the S. S.,
about 1 mile below Capt Lewis who had walked thro the point, left his Coat
& a Deer on the bank which we took on board,-. a Short distance below
our Camp I Saw Some rafts on the S. S. near which, an Indian woman was
Scaffeled in the Indian form of Deposing their dead, & fallen down She
was or had been raised about 6 feet inclosed in Several robes tightly
laced around her, with her dog Slays, her bag of Different coloured earths
paint Small bones of animals beaver nales and Several other little
trinkets, also a blue jay, her dog was killed and lay near her. Capt.
Lewis joined me Soon after I landed & informed me he has walked
Several miles higher, & in his walk killed 2 Deer & wounded an Elk
& a Deer, our party Shot in the river four beaver & cought two,
which were verry fat and much admired by the men, after we landed they
killed 3 Elk 4 Gees & 2 Deer we had Some of our Provisions & which
got a little wet aired, the wind Continued So hard that we were Compelled
to delay all day. Saw Several buffalow lodged in the drift wood which had
been drouned in the winter in passing the river; Saw the remains of 2
which had lodged on the Side of the bank & eate by the bears.
This morning was verry cold, Some Snow about 2 oClock from flying clouds,
Some frost this morning & the mud at the edge of the water was frosed
[Lewis, April 21, 1805]
Sunday April 21st 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning. Capt Clark
walked on shore; the wind tho a head was not violent. the country through
which we passed is very simelar in every rispect to that through which we
have passed for several days. — We saw immence herds of buffaloe Elk
deer & Antelopes. Capt Clark killed a buffaloe and 4 deer in the
course of his walk today; and the party with me killed 3 deer, 2 beaver,
and 4 buffaloe calves. the latter we found very delicious. I think it
equal to any veal I ever tasted. the Elk now begin to shed their horns.
passed one large and two small creeks on the Lard. side, tho neither of
them discharge any water at present. the wind blew so hard this evening
that we were obliged to halt several hours. we reached the place of
incampment after dark, which was on the Lard. side a little above White
earth river which discharges itself on the Stard. side. immediately at the
mouth of this river it is not more than 10 yards wide being choked up by
the mud of the Missouri; tho after leaving the bottom lands of this river,
or even sooner, it becomes a boald stream of sixty yards wide and is deep
and navigable. the course of this river as far as I could see from the top
of Cut bluff, was due North. it passes through a beatifull level and
fertile vally about five miles in width. I think I saw about 25 miles up
this river, and did not discover one tree or bush of any discription on
it's borders. the vally was covered with Elk and buffaloe. saw a great
number of gees today as usual, also some swan and ducks.
[Clark, April 21, 1805]
21st of April Sunday 1805 Set out early the wind gentle & from the N.
W. the river being verry Crooked, I concluded to walk through the point,
the Countrey on either Side is verry Similar to that we have passed, Saw
an emence number of Elk & Buffalow, also Deer Antelopes Geese Ducks
& a fiew Swan, the Buffalow is about Calveing I killed a Buffalow
& 4 Deer in my walk to day, the party killed 2 deer 2 beaver & 4
Buffalow Calves, which was verry good veele. I Saw old Camps of Indians on
the L. Side, we passed 1 large & 2 Small Creeks on the L. Side neither
of them discharge any water into the river, in the evening the wind became
verry hard a head, we made Camp at a late hour which was on the L. Side a
little above the mouth of White Earth River which falls in on the Stad
Side and is 60 yds. wide, several Mes. up
[Lewis, April 22, 1805]
Monday April 22cd 1805. Set out at an early hour this morning; proceeded
pretty well untill breakfat, when the wind became so hard a head that we
proceeded with difficulty even with the assistance of our toe lines. the
party halted and Cpt. Clark and myself walked to the white earth river
which approaches the Missouri very near at this place, being about 4 miles
above it's entrance. we found that it contained more water than streams of
it's size generally do at this season. the water is much clearer than that
of the Missouri. the banks of the river are steep and not more than ten or
twelve feet high; the bed seems to be composed of mud altogether. the
salts which have been before mentioned as common on the Missouri, appears
in great quantities along the banks of this river, which are in many
places so thickly covered with it that they appear perfectly white.
perhaps it has been from this white appearance of it's banks that the
river has derived it's name. this river is said to be navigable nearly to
it's source, which is at no great distance from the Saskashawan, and I
think from it's size the direction which it seems to take, and the
latitude of it's mouth, that there is very good ground to believe that it
extends as far North as latitude 50°. — this stream passes through an
open country generally. — the broken hills of the Missouri about this
place exhibit large irregular and broken masses of rocks and stones; some
of which tho 200 feet above the level of the water seem at some former
period to have felt it's influence, fo they appear smoth as if woarn by
the agetation of the water. this collection consists of white & grey
gannite, a brittle black rock, flint, limestone, freestone, some small
specimens of an excellent pebble and occasionally broken stratas of a
stone which appears to be petrefyed wood, it is of a black colour, and
makes excellent whetstones. Coal or carbonated wood pumice stone lava and
other mineral apearances still continue. the coal appears to be of better
quality; I exposed a specimen of it to the fire and found that it birnt
tolerably well, it afforded but little flame or smoke, but produced a hot
and lasting fire. — I asscended to the top of the cutt bluff this
morning, from whence I had a most delightfull view of the country, the
whole of which except the vally formed by the Missouri is void of timber
or underbrush, exposing to the first glance of the spectator immence herds
of Buffaloe, Elk, deer, & Antelopes feeding in one common and
boundless pasture. we saw a number of bever feeding on the bark of the
trees alonge the verge of the river, several of which we shot, found them
large and fat. walking on shore this evening I met with a buffaloe calf
which attatched itself to me and continued to follow close at my heels
untill I embarked and left it. it appeared allarmed at my dog which was
probably the cause of it's so readily attatching itself to me. Capt Clark
informed me that he saw a large drove of buffaloe pursued by wolves today,
that they at length caught a calf which was unable to keep up with the
herd. the cows only defend their young so long as they are able to keep up
with the herd, and seldom return any distance in surch of them.
[Clark, April 22, 1805]
22nd of April Monday 1805 a verry cold morning Some frost, we Set out at
an early hour and proceeded on verry well untill brackfast at which time
the wind began to blow verry hard ahead, and Continued hard all day we
proceeded on with much dificuelty with the assistance of the toe Ropes.
Capt. Lewis & my Self walked to the ____ River which is near the
Missouri four miles above its mouth, this river is 60 yards wide and
contains a greater perportion of water at this time than is Common for
Rivers of its Size it appears navagable as fur as any of the party was,
and I am told to near its Source in morrasses in the open Plains, it
passes (as far as we can See which is 6 or 7 Leagus) thro a butifull
extinsive vallie, rich & fertile and at this time Covered with
Buffalow, Elk & antelopes, which may be Seen also in any other
direction in this quarter — this river must take its rise at no great
distance Easte of the Saskashawan, and no doubt as far N. as Latd. 50°
Some of the high plains or the broken Revien of the river contains great
quantity of Pebble Stones of various Sizes, The Stratum of Coal is much
richer than below, the appearances of Mineral & burnt hills Still
continue the river riseing a little, Saw an emence number of beaver
feeding on the waters edge & Swiming Killed Several, Capt. Lewis
assended a hill from the top of which he had a most inchanting prospect of
the Countrey around & the meanderings of the two rivers, which is
remarkable Crooked — a buffalow calf which was on the Shore alone
followed Cap Lewis Some distance, — I observed a large drove of
buffalow prosued by wolves the wolves cought one of their Calves in my
view, those animals defend their young as long as they Can keep up with
the drove
[Lewis, April 23, 1805]
Tuesday April 23rd Set out at an early hour this morning. about nine A.M.
the wind arose, and shortly after became so violent that we were unabled
to proceed, in short it was with much difficulty and some risk that I was
enabled to get the canoes and perogues into a place of tolerable safety,
there being no timber on either side of the river at this place. some of
the canoes shiped water, and wet several parsels of their lading, which I
directed to be opened and aired we remained untill five in the evening
when the wind abating in some measure, we reloaded, and proceeded. shortly
after we were joined by Capt. Clark who had walked on shore this morning,
and passing through the bottom lands had fallen on the river some miles
above, and concluding that the wind had detained us, came down the river
in surch of us. he had killed three blacktaled, or mule deer, and a
buffaloe Calf, in the course of his ramble. these hard winds, being so
frequently repeated, become a serious source of detention to us. — incamped
on the Stard. side.
[Clark, April 23, 1805]
23rd of April 1805 a cold morning at about 9 oClock the wind as usial rose
from the N W and continued to blow verry hard untill late in the evening I
walked on Shore after brackfast in my walk on the S side passed through
extensive bottoms of timber intersperced with glades & low open
plains, I killed 3 mule or black tail Deer, which was in tolerable order,
Saw Several others, I also killed a Buffalow Calf which was verry fine, I
Struck the river above the Perogus which had Come too in a bend to the L.
S. to Shelter from the wind which had become violently hard, I joined Capt
Lewis in the evening & after the winds falling which was late in the
evening we proceeded on & encamped on the S. S. The winds of this
Countrey which blow with Some violence almost every day, has become a
Serious obstruction in our progression onward, as we Cant move when the
wind is high without great risque, and if there was no risque the winds is
generally a head and often too violent to proceed
[Lewis, April 24, 1805]
Wednesday April 24th The wind blew so hard during the whole of this day,
that we were unable to move. notwithstanding that we were sheltered by
high timber from the effects of the wind, such was it's violence that it
caused the waves to rise in such manner as to wet many articles in the
small canoes before they could be unloaded. we sent out some hunters who
killed 4 deer & 2 Elk, and caught some young wolves of the small kind. — Soar
eyes is a common complaint among the party. I believe it origenates from
the immence quantities of sand which is driven by the wind from the
sandbars of the river in such clouds that you are unable to discover the
opposite bank of the river in many instances. the particles of this sand
are so fine and light that they are easily supported by the air, and are
carried by the wind for many miles, and at a distance exhibiting every
appearance of a collumn of thick smoke. so penitrating is this sand that
we cannot keep any article free from it; in short we are compelled to eat,
drink, and breath it very freely. my pocket watch, is out of order, she
will run only a few minutes without stoping. I can discover no radical
defect in her works, and must therefore attribute it to the sand, with
which, she seems plentifully charged, notwithstanding her cases are double
and tight.
[Clark, April 24, 1805]
24th of April Wednesday 1805 The wind rose last night and continued
blowing from the N. & N W. and Sometimes with great violence, untill 7
oClock P. M, Several articles wet in the Perogues by their takeing water
&c. as the wind was a head we could not move today Sent out hunters,
they killed 4 Deer 2 Elk & cought Some young wolves of the Small kind,
The party complain much of the Sand in their eyes, the Sand is verry fine
and rises in clouds from the Points and bars of the river, I may Say that
dureing those winds we eat Drink & breeth a prepotion of Sand.
[Lewis, April 25, 1805]
Thursday April 25th 1805. The wind was more moderate this morning, tho
still hard; we set out at an early hour. the water friezed on the oars
this morning as the men rowed. about 10 oclock A.M. the wind began to blow
so violently that we were obliged to lye too. my dog had been absent
during the last night, and I was fearfull we had lost him altogether,
however, much to my satisfaction he joined us at 8 Oclock this morning.
The wind had been so unfavorable to our progress for several days past,
and seeing but little prospect of a favourable chang; knowing that the
river was crooked, from the report of the hunters who were out yesterday,
and beleiving that we were at no very great distance from the Yellow stone
River; I determined, in order as mush as possible to avoid detention, to
proceed by land with a few men to the entrance of that river and make the
necessary observations to determine it's position, which I hoped to effect
by the time that Capt. Clark could arrive with the party; accordingly I
set out at 1 t OCk. on the Lard. side, accompanyed by four men. we
proceeded about four miles, when falling in with some bufaloe I killed a
yearling calf, which was in good order; we soon cooked and made a hearty
meal of a part of it, and renewed our march our rout lay along the foot of
the river hills. when we had proceeded about four miles, I ascended the
hills from whence I had a most pleasing view of the country, perticularly
of the wide and fertile values formed by the missouri and the yellowstone
rivers, which occasionally unmasked by the wood on their borders disclose
their meanderings for many miles in their passage through these
delightfull tracts of country. I could not discover the junction of the
rivers immediately, they being concealed by the woods, however, sensible
that it could not be distant I determined to encamp on the bank of the
Yellow stone river which made it's appearance about 2 miles South of me.
the whol face of the country was covered with herds of Buffaloe, Elk &
Antelopes; deer are also abundant, but keep themselves more concealed in
the woodland. the buffaloe Elk and Antelope are so gentle that we pass
near them while feeding, without apearing to excite any alarm among them,
and when we attract their attention, they frequently approach us more
nearly to discover what we are, and in some instances pursue us a
considerable distance apparenly with that view. — in our way to the
place I had determined to encamp, we met with two large herds of buffaloe,
of which we killed three cows and a calf. two of the former, wer but lean,
we therefore took their tongues and a part of their marrow-bones only. I
then proceeded to the place of our encampment with two of the men, taking
with us the Calf and marrowbones, while the other two remained, with
orders to dress the cow that was in tolerable order, and hang the meat out
of the reach of the wolves, a precaution indispensible to it's safe
keeping, even for a night. we encamped on the bank of the yellowstone
river, 2 miles South of it's confluence with the Missouri. On rejoining
Capt. Clark, the 26th in the evening, he informed me, that at 5 P.M. after
I left him the wind abated in some measure and he proceeded a few miles
further and encamped.
[Clark, April 25, 1805]
25th of April Thursday 1805 The wind was moderate & ahead this
morning, we Set out at an early hour The morning cold, Some flying Clouds
to be Seen, the wind from the N. ice collected on the ores this morning,
the wind increased and became So violent about 1 oClock we were obliged to
lay by our Canoes haveing taken in Some water, the Dog which was lost
yesterday, joined us this morning.
finding that the winds retarded our progression for maney days past, and
no apparance of an alteration, and the river being Crooked that we could
never have 3 miles fair wind, Capt. Lewis concluded to go by land as far
as the Rochejhone or yellow Stone river, which we expect is at no great
distance by land and make Some Selestial observations to find the
Situation of its mouth, and by that measure not detain the Perogues at
that place any time for the purpose of makeing those necessary
observations he took 4 men & proceeded on up the Missouri on the L.
Side, at 5 oClock the wind luled and we proceeded on and incamped.
[Lewis, April 26, 1805]
Friday April 26th 1805. This morning I dispatched Joseph Fields up the
yellowstone river with orders to examine it as far as he could
conveniently and return the same evening; two others were directed to
bring in the meat we had killed last evening, while I proceeded down the
river with one man in order to take a view of the confluence of this great
river with the Missouri, which we found to be two miles distant on a
direct line N. W. from our encampment. the bottom land on the lower side
of the yellowstone river near it's mouth for about one mile in width
appears to be subject to inundation; while that on the opposite side of
the Missouri and the point formed by the junction of these rivers is of
the common elivation, say from twelve to 18 feet above the level of the
water, and of course not liable to be overflown except in extreem high
water, which dose not appear to be very frequent there is more timber in
the neighbourhood of the junction of these rivers, and on the Missouri as
far below as the White earth river, than there is on any part of the
Missouri above the entrance of the Chyenne river to this place. the timber
consists principally of Cottonwood, with some small elm, ash and boxalder.
the under growth on the sandbars and verge of the river is the small
leafed willow; the low bottoms, rose bushes which rise to three or four
feet high, the redburry, servicebury, and the redwood; the high bottoms
are of two discriptions either timbered or open; the first lies next to
the river and it's under brush is the same with that of the low timbered
bottoms with the addition of the broad leafed willow, Goosbury, choke
cherry, purple currant; and honeysuckle bushis; the open bottoms border on
the hills, and are covered in many parts by the wild hyssop which rises to
the hight of two feet. I observe that the Antelope, Buffaloe Elk and deer
feed on this herb; the willow of the sandbars also furnish a favorite
winter food to these anamals as well as the growse, the porcupine, hare,
and rabbit. about 12 Olock I heard the discharge of several guns at the
junction of the rivers, which announced to me the arrival of the paty with
Capt Clark; I afterwards learnt that they had fired on some buffaloe which
they met with at that place, and of which they killed a cow and several
Calves; the latter are now fine veal. I dispatched one of the men to Capt
Clark requesting him to send up a canoe to take down the meat we had
killed and our baggage to his encampmt, which was accordingly complyed
with. after I had completed my observations in the evening I walked down
and joined the party at their encampment on the point of land fromed by
the junction of the rivers; found them all in good health, and much
pleased at having arrived at this long wished for spot, and in order to
add in some measure to the general pleasure which seemed to pervade our
little community, we ordered a dram to be issued to each person; this soon
produced the fiddle, and they spent the evening with much hilarity,
singing & dancing, and seemed as perfectly to forget their past toils,
as they appeared regardless of those to come. in the evening, the man I
had sent up the river this morning returned, and reported that he had
ascended it about eight miles on a streight line; that he found it
crooked, meandering from side to side of the valley formed by it; which is
from four to five miles wide. the corrent of the river gentle, and it's
bed much interrupted and broken by sandbars; at the distance of five miles
he passed a large Island well covered with timber, and three miles higher
a large creek falls in on the S. E. sides above a high bluff in which
there are several stratas of coal. the country bordering on this river as
far as he could percieve, like that of the Missouri, consisted of open
plains. he saw several of the bighorned anamals in the couse of his walk;
but they were so shy that he could not get a shoot at them; he found a
large horn of one of these anamals which he brought with him. the bed of
the yellowstone river is entirely composed of sand and mud, not a stone of
any kind to be seen in it near it's entrance. Capt Clark measured these
rivers just above their confluence; found the bed of the Missouri 520
yards wide, the water occupying 330. it's channel deep. the yellowstone
river including it's sandbar, 858 yds. of which, the water occupyed 297
yards; the depest part 12 feet; it was falling at this time & appeard
to be nearly at it's summer tide. — the Indians inform that the
yellowstone river is navigable for perogues and canoes nearly to it's
source in the Rocky Mountains, and that in it's course near these
mountains it passes within less than half a day's march of a navigable
part of the Missouri. it's extreem sources are adjacent to those of the
Missouri, river platte, and I think probably with some of the South branch
of the Columbia river. the first part of its course lies through a
mountanous rocky country tho well timbered and in many parts fertile; the
middle, and much the most extensive portion of the river lies through a
delightfull rich and fertile country, well covered with timber,
intersperced with plains and meadows, and well watered; it is some what
broken in many parts. the lower portion consists of fertile open plains
and meadows almost entirely, tho it possesses a considerable proportion of
timber on it's borders. the current of the upper portion is extreemly
rappid, that of the middle and lower portions much more gentle than the
Missouri. the water of this river is turbid, tho dose not possess as much
sediment as that of the Missouri. this river in it's course recieves the
waters of many large tributary strains principally from the S. E. of which
the most considerable are the Tongue and bighorn rivers the former is much
the largest, and heads with the river Platte and Bighorn river, as dose
the latter with the Tongue river and the river Platte. — a suficient
quantity of limestone may be readily procured for building near the
junction of the Missouri and yellowstone rivers. I could observe no
regular stratas of it, tho it lies on the sides of the river hills in
large irregular masses, in considerable quantities; it is of a light
colour, and appears to be of an excellent quality.
[Clark, April 26, 1805]
26th of April Friday 1805 last night was verry Cold. the Thermometer Stood
at 32 abov 0 this morning. I Set out at an early hour, as it was cold I
walked on the bank, & in my walk Shot a beaver & 2 Deer, one of
the Deer in tolerable order, the low bottom of the river is generaly
Covered with wood willows & rose bushes, red berry, wild Cherry &
red or arrow wood intersperced with glades The timber is Cottonwood
principally, Elm Small ash also furnish a portion of the timber, The Clay
of the bluffs appear much whiter than below, and Contain Several Stratums
of Coal, on the hill Sides I observe pebbles of different Size &
Colour — The river has been riseing for Several days, & raised 3
inches last night, at 12 oClock arrived at the forks of the Roche Johne
& Missouri and formed a Camp on the point Soon after George Drewyer
Came from Capt Lewis & informed me that he was a little way up the
Roche johne and would join me this evining, I Sent a canoe up to Capt
Lewis and proceeded measure the width of the rivers, and find the debth.
The Missouri is 520 yards wide above the point of yellow Stone and the
water covers 330 yards; the YellowStone River is 858 yards wide includeing
its Sand bar, the water covers 297 yards and the deepest part is 12 feet
water, it is at this time falling, the Missouri rising The Indians inform
that the yellow Stone River is navagable for Perogues to near its Source
in the Rocky Mountains, it has many tributary Streams, principally on the
S. E. Side, and heads at no great distance from the Missouri, the largest
rivers which fall into it is Tongue river which heads with the waters of
River Platt, and Big horn river which also heads with Platt & Tongue R
the current of this river is Said to be rapid near its mouth it is verry
jentle, and its water is of a whitish colour much Clearer of Sediment than
the Missouri. the Countrey on this river is Said to be broken in its whole
Course & Contains a great deel of wood, the countrey about its mouth
is verry fine, the bottoms on either Side is wooded with Cotton wood, ash,
Elm &c. near the banks of the river back is higher bottoms and Covered
with red berry, Goose berry & rose bushes &. interspersed with
Small open Glades, and near the high land is Generally open rich bottoms — at
our arrival at the forks I observed a Drove of Buffalow Cows & Calves
on a Sand bar in the point, I directed the men to kill the fattest Cow,
and 3 or 4 Calves, which they did and let the others pass, the Cows are
pore, Calves fine veele.
Capt Lewis joined me in the evening after takeing equal altitudes a little
way up the YellowStone river the Countrey in every direction is plains
except the moist bottoms of the river, which are covered with Some
indifferent timber Such as Cotton wood Elm & Small ash, with different
kind of Stubs & bushes in the forks about 1 mile from the point at
which place the 2 rivers are near each other a butifull low leavel plain
Commences, and extends up the Missourie & back, this plain is narrow
at its commencement and widens as the Missouri bends north, and is
bordered by an extencive wood land for many miles up the yellow Stone
river, this low plain is not Subject to over flow, appear to be a few
inches above high water mark and affords a butifull commanding Situation
for a fort near the commencement of the Prarie, about ____ miles from the
Point & ____ yards from the Missouri a Small lake is Situated, from
this lake the plain rises gradually to a high butifull Countrey, the low
Plain continues for Some distance up both rivers on the Yellow Stone it is
wide & butifull opsd. the point on the S. Side is Some high timbered
land, about 11/2 miles below on the Same Side a little distance from the
water is an elivated plain — Several of the party was up the yellow
Stone R Several miles, & informed that it meandered throught a
butifull Countrey Joseph Fields discovered a large Creek falling into the
Yellowstone River on the S E Side 8 miles up near which he Saw a big horn
animal, he found in the Prarie the horn of one of those animals which was
large and appeared to have laid Several years I Saw maney buffalow dead on
the banks of the river in different places Some of them eaten by the white
bears & wolves all except the Skin & bones, others entire, those
animals either drounded in attempting to Cross on the ice dureing the
winter or Swiming across to bluff banks where they Could not get out &
too weak to return we Saw several in this Situation.
emence numbers of antelopes in the forks of the river, Buffalow & Elk
& Deer is also plenty beaver is in every bend. I observe that the
Magpie Goose duck & Eagle all have their nests in the Same
neighbourhood, and it is not uncommon for the Magpie to build in a few
rods of the eagle, the nests of this bird is built verry Strong with
Sticks Covered verry thickly with one or more places through which they
enter or escape, the Goose I make no doubt falls a pray to those vicious
eagles
[Lewis, April 27, 1805]
Saturday April 27th 1805. Previous to our seting out this morning I made
the following observations.
This morning I walked through the point formed by the junction of the
rivers; the woodland extends about a mile, when the rivers approach each
other within less than half a mile; here a beatifull level low plain
commences and extends up both rivers for many miles, widening as the
rivers recede from each other, and extending back half a mile to a plain
about 12 feet higher than itself; the low plain appears to be a few inches
higher than high water mark and of course will not be liable to be
overflown; tho where it joins the high plain a part of the Missouri when
at it's greatest hight, passes through a channel of 60 or 70 yards wide
and falls into the yellowstone river. on the Missouri about 21/2 miles
from the entrance of the yellowstone river, and between this high and low
plain, a small lake is situated about 200 yards wide extending along the
edge of the high plain parallel with the Missouri about one mile. on the
point of the high plain at the lower extremity of this lake I think would
be the most eligible site for an establishment. between this low plain and
the Yellowstone river their is an extensive body of timbered land
extending up the river for many miles. this site recommended is about 400
yards distant from the Missouri and about double that distance from the
river yellowstone; from it the high plain, rising very gradually, extends
back about three miles to the hills, and continues with the same width
between these hills and the timbered land on the yellowstone river, up
that stream, for seven or eight miles; and is one of the hadsomest plains
I ever beheld. on the Missouri side the hills sircumscribe it's width,
& at the distance of three miles up that river from this site, it is
not more than 400 yards wide. Capt Clark thinks that the lower extremity
of the low plane would be most eligible for this establishment; it is true
that it is much nearer both rivers, and might answer very well, but I
think it reather too low to venture a permanent establishment,
particularly if built of brick or other durable materials, at any
considerable expence; for so capricious, and versatile are these rivers,
that it is difficult to say how long it will be, untill they direct the
force of their currents against this narrow part of the low plain, which
when they do, must shortly yeald to their influence; in such case a few
years only would be necessary, for the annihilation of the plain, and with
it the fortification. — I continued my walk on shore; at 11 A.M. the
wind became very hard from N. W. insomuch that the perogues and canoes
were unable either to proceede or pass the river to me; I was under the
necessity therefore of shooting a goose and cooking it for my dinner. the
wind abated about 4. P.M. and the party proceeded tho I could not
conveniently join them untill night. altho game is very abundant and
gentle, we only kill as much as is necessary for food. I believe that two
good hunters could conveniently supply a regiment with provisions. for
several days past we have observed a great number of buffaloe lying dead
on the shore, some of them entire and others partly devoured by the wolves
and bear. those anamals either drownded during the winter in attempting to
pass the river on the ice during the winter or by swiming acrss at present
to bluff banks which they are unable to ascend, and feeling themselves too
weak to return remain and perish for the want of food; in this situation
we met with several little parties of them. — beaver are very
abundant, the party kill several of them every day. The Eagles, Magpies,
and gees have their nests in trees adjacent to each other; the magpye
particularly appears fond of building near the Eagle, as we scarcely see
an Eagle's nest unaccompanyed with two or three Magpies nests within a
short distance. — The bald Eagle are more abundant here than I ever
observed them in any part of the country.
[Clark, April 27, 1805]
27th of April Satturday 1805 after take the azmuth of the Sun &
brackfasting we Set out wind moderate & a head, at 11 oClock the wind
rose and continued to blow verry hard a head from the N. W. untill 4
oClock P M, which blew the Sand off the Points in Such clouds as almost
Covered us on the opposit bank, at 4 I Set out from my unpleasent
Situation and proceeded on, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore in the Point to
examine & view the Countrey and could not get to the boats untill
night, Saw great numbers of Goats or antilopes, Elk, Swan Gees &
Ducks, no buffalow to day I Saw Several beaver and much Sign, I Shot one
in the head which imediately Sunk, altho the game of different kinds are
in abundance we Kill nothing but what we can make
[Lewis, April 28, 1805]
Sunday April 28th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour; the wind
was favourable and we employed our sails to advantage. Capt Clark walked
on shore this morning, and I proceeded with the party. the country through
which we passed today is open as usual and very broken on both sides near
the river hills, the bottoms are level fertile and partially covered with
timber. the hills and bluffs exhibit their usual mineral appearances, some
birnt hills but no appearance of Pumicestone; coal is in great abundance
and the salts still increase in quantity; the banks of the river and
sandbars are incrusted with it in many places and appear perfectly white
as if covered with snow or frost. — the woods are now green, tho the
plains and meadows appear to abate of the verdure those below exhibited
some days past. we past three small runs today. two falling in on the
Stard. and one on the Lard. side, they are but small afford but little
water and head a few miles back in the hills. we saw great quantities of
game today; consisting of the common and mule deer, Elk, Buffaloe, and
Antelopes; also four brown bear, one of which was fired on and wounded by
one of the party but we did not get it; the beaver have cut great
quantities of timber; saw a tree nearly 3 feet in diameter that had been
felled by them. Capt. Clark in the course of his walk killed a deer and a
goose; & saw three black bear; he thinks the bottoms are not so wide
as they have been for some days past.
[Clark, April 28, 1805]
28th of April Sunday 1805 a fine day river falling, wind favourable from
the S. E. and moderate, I walked on Shore to view the Countrey, from the
top of the high hills, I beheld a broken & open Countrey on both
Sides, near the river Some verry handsom low plains, I killd. a Deer &
a goose, Saw three black bear great numbers of Elk antelopes & 2
Gangues of Buffalow, the hills & Bluffs Shew the Straturs of Coal, and
burnt appearances in maney places, in and about them I could find no
appearance of Pumice Stone, the wood land have a green appearance, the
Plains do not look So green as below, The bottoms are not So wide this
afternoon as below Saw four bear this evening, one of the men Shot at one
of them. The Antilopes are nearly red, on that part which is Subject to
change i e the Sides & 2/3 of the back from the head, the other part
as white as Snow, 2 Small runs fall in on the S. Side and one this evening
on the Lard Side those runs head at a fiew miles in the hills and
discharge but little water, the Bluffs in this part as also below Shew
different Straturs of Coal or carbonated wood, and Coloured earth, such as
dark brown, yellow a lightish brown, & a dark red &c.
[Lewis, April 29, 1805]
Monday April 29th 1805. Set out this morning at the usual hour; the wind
was moderate; I walked on shore with one man. about 8 A.M. we fell in with
two brown or yellow bear; both of which we wounded; one of them made his
escape, the other after my firing on him pursued me seventy or eighty
yards, but fortunately had been so badly wounded that he was unable to
pursue so closely as to prevent my charging my gun; we again repeated our
fir and killed him. it was a male not fully grown, we estimated his weight
at 300 lbs. not having the means of ascertaining it precisely. The legs of
this bear are somewhat longer than those of the black, as are it's tallons
and tusks incomparably larger and longer. the testicles, which in the
black bear are placed pretty well back between the thyes and contained in
one pouch like those of the dog and most quadrupeds, are in the yellow or
brown bear placed much further forward, and are suspended in seperate
pouches from two to four inches asunder; it's colour is yellowish brown,
the eyes small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the
feet is usually black; the fur is finer thicker and deeper than that of
the black bear. these are all the particulars in which this anamal
appeared to me to differ from the black bear; it is a much more furious
and formidable anamal, and will frequently pursue the hunter when wounded.
it is asstonishing to see the wounds they will bear before they can be put
to death. the Indians may well fear this anamal equiped as they generally
are with their bows and arrows or indifferent fuzees, but in the hands of
skillfull riflemen they are by no means as formidable or dangerous as they
have been represented. game is still very abundant we can scarcely cast
our eyes in any direction without percieving deer Elk Buffaloe or
Antelopes. The quantity of wolves appear to increase in the same
proportion; they generally hunt in parties of six eight or ten; they kill
a great number of the Antelopes at this season; the Antelopes are yet
meagre and the females are big with young; the wolves take them most
generally in attempting to swim the river; in this manner my dog caught
one drowned it and brought it on shore; they are but clumsey swimers, tho
on land when in good order, they are extreemly fleet and dureable. we have
frequently seen the wolves in pursuit of the Antelope in the plains; they
appear to decoy a single one from a flock, and then pursue it, alturnately
relieving each other untill they take it. on joining Capt Clark he
informed me that he had seen a female and faun of the bighorned anamal;
that they ran for some distance with great aparent ease along the side of
the river bluff where it was almost perpendicular; two of the party fired
on them while in motion without effect. we took the flesh of the bear on
board and proceeded. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening, killed a
deer, and saw several of the bighorned anamals. there is more appearance
of coal today than we have yet seen, the stratas are 6 feet thick in some
instances; the earth has been birnt in many places, and always appears in
stratas on the same level with the stratas of coal. we came too this
evening in the mouth of a little river, which falls in on the Stard. side.
This stream is about 50 yards wide from bank to bank; the water occupyes
about 15 yards. the banks are of earth only, abrupt, tho not high — the
bed, is of mud principally. Capt Clark, who was up this streeam about
three miles, informed me that it continued about the same width, that it's
current was gentle and it appeared navigable for perogus it meanders
through an extensive, fertile, and beautifull vally as far as could bee
seen about N. 30°W. there was but one solitary tree to be seen on the
banks of this river after it left the bottom of the Missouri. the water of
this river is clear, with a brownish yelow tint. here the highlands
receede from the Missouri, leaving the vally formed by the river from
seven to eight miles wide, and reather lower then usual. This stream my
friend Capt. C. named Marthas river
[Clark, April 29, 1805]
29th of April Monday 1805 Set out this morning at the usial hour. the wind
is moderate & from the N E had not proceeded far eer we Saw a female
& her faun of the Bighorn animal on the top of a Bluff lying, the
noise we made allarmed them and they came down on the Side of the bluff
which had but little Slope being nearly purpindicular, I directed two men
to kill those anamals, one went on the top and the other man near the
water they had two Shots at the doe while in motion without effect, Those
animals run & Skiped about with great ease on this declivity &
appeared to prefur it to the leavel bottom or plain. Capt Lewis & one
man walkd on Shore and he killed a yellow Bear & the man with him
wounded one other, after getting the flesh of the bear on bord which was
not far from the place we brackfast, we proceeded on Saw 4 gangus of
buffalow and great numbers of Antelopes in every direction also Saw Elk
and Several wolves, I walked on Shore in the evening & killed a Deer
which was So meager as to be unfit for use The hills Contain more Coal,
and has a greater appearance of being burnt that below, the burnt parts
appear on a parrilel with the Stratiums of Coal, we Came too in the mouth
of a Little river on the S. S. which is about 50 or 60 yards from bank to
bank, I was up this Stream 3 miles it continues its width and glides with
a gentle Current, its water is about 15 yards wide at this time, and
appears to be navagable for Canoes &c. it meanders through a butifull
& extencive vallie as far as can be Seen about N 30° W. I saw only a
Single tree in this fertile vallie The water of the River is clear of a
yellowish Colour, we call this river Martheys river in honor to the
Selebrated M. F
Here the high land widen from five to Eight miles and much lower than
below, Saw Several of the big horn animals this evening. The Wolves
distroy great numbers of the antilopes by decoying those animals
Singularly out in the plains and prosueing them alternetly, those
antelopes are Curious and will approach any thing which appears in motion
near them &c.
[Lewis, April 30, 1805]
Tuesday April 30th 1805. Set out at sunrise. the wind blew hard all last
night, and continued to blow pretty hard all day, but not so much, as to
compell us to ly by. the country as usual is bare of timber; the river
bottoms are level and fertile and extensive, but possess but little timber
and that of an indifferent quality even of it's kind; principally low
cottonwood, either too small for building, or for plank or broken and dead
at top and unsound in the center of the trunk. saw great quantities of
game as usual. Capt. Clark walked on shore the greater part of the day,
past some old Indian lodges built of drift wood; they appear to be of
antient date and not recently inhabited. I walked on shore this evening
and killed a buck Elk, in tolerable order; it appeared to me to be the
largest I had seen, and was therefore induced to measure it; found it five
feet three inches from the point of the hoof, to the top of the sholders;
the leg and hoof being placed as nearly as possible in the same position
they would have been had the anamal been standing.
[Clark, April 30, 1805]
30th of April Tuesday 1805 The wind blew hard from the N E all last night,
we Set out at Sunrise the wind blew hard the greater part of the day and
part of the time favourable, we did not lie by to day on account of the
wind I walked on Shore to day our interpreter & his Squar followed, in
my walk the Squar found & brought me a bush Something like the
Current, which She Said bore a delicious froot and that great quantites
grew on the Rocky Mountains, this Srub was in bloom has a yellow flower
with a deep Cup, the froot when ripe is yellow and hangs in bunches like
Cheries, Some of those berries yet remained on the bushes. The bottoms
above the mouth of the last river is extensive level & fertile and
covered with indifferent timber in the points, the up land appear to rise
gradually, I saw Great numbers of Antelopes, also Scattering Buffalow,
Elk, Deer, wolves, Gees, ducks & Grows — I Killed 2 Gees which we
dined on to day Capt Lewis walked on Shore and killed an elk this evening,
and we Came too & camped on the S. S the Countrey on both Sides have a
butifull appearance.
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
Wednesday May 1st 1805. Set out this morning at an early, the wind being
favourable we used our sales which carried us on at a good pace untill
about 12 OCk. when the wind became so high that the small canoes were
unable to proceed one of them which seperated from us just befor the wind
became so violent, is now lying on the opposite side of the river, being
unable to rejoin us in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts
run several feet high. we came too on the Lard. shore in a handsome bottom
well stocked with cottonwood timber; here the wind compelled us to spend
the ballance of the day. we sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe,
an Elk, a goat and two beaver. game is now abundant. the country appears
much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several days;
the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with timber,
which consists principally of cottonwood, not however of large size; the
under-growth willow on the verge of the river and sandbars, rose bushes,
red willow and the broad leafed willow in the bottom lands; the high
country on either side of the river is one vast plain, intirely destitute
of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of a dark rich mellow
looking lome. John Shields sick today with the rheumatism. Shannon killed
a bird of the plover kind. weight one pound. it measured from the tip of
the toe, to the extremity of the beak, 1 foot 10 Inches; from tip to tip
of wings when extended 2 F. 5 I.; Beak 3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8 inches;
leg and toe 10 Ins. — the eye black, piercing, prominent and
moderately large. the legs are Hat thin, slightly imbricated and of a pale
sky blue colour, being covered with feathers as far as the mustle extends
down it, which is about half it's length. it has four toes on each foot,
three of which, are connected by a web, the fourth is small and placed at
the heel about the 1/8 of an inch up the leg. the nails are black and
short, that of the middle toe is extreemly singular, consisting of two
nails the one laping on or overlaying the other, the upper one somewhat
the longest and sharpest. the tale contains eleven feathers of equal
length, & of a bluish white colour. the boddy and underside of the
wings, except the large feathers of the 1st & 2cd joints of the same,
are white; as are also the feathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of
the wing and part of those of the 3rd adjacent thereto, the large feathers
of the 1st or pinion and the 2cd joint are black; a part of the larger
feathers of the 3rd joint on the upper side and all the small feathers
which cover the upper part of the wings are black, as are also the tuft of
long feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing,
leaving however a stripe of white betwen them on the back. the head and
neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and are of a light brickdust
brown; the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head, and
from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very sharp point, the upper
chap being 1/8 of an inch the longest turns down at the point and forms a
little hook. the nostrils, which commence near the head are long, narrow,
connected, and parallel with the beak; the beak is much curved, the
curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as is common with most
birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles whalebone at a little
distance, and is quite as flexable as that substance their note resembles
that of the grey plover, tho is reather louder and more varied, their
habits appear also to be the same, with this difference; that it sometimes
rests on the water and swims which I do not recollect having seen the
plover do. this bird which I shall henceforth stile the Missouri plover,
generally feeds about the shallow bars of the river; to collect it's food
which consists of ____, it immerces it's beak in the water and throws it's
head and beak from side to side at every step it takes.
[Clark, May 1, 1805]
May the 1st Wednesday 1805 We Set out at Sun rise under a Stiff Breeze
from the East, the morning Cool & Cloudy. one man J. Shields Sick with
rhumetism — one of the men (Shannon) Shot a Gull or pleaver, which is
about the Size of an Indian hen, with a Sharp pointed bill turning up
& 4 Inches long, the head and neck of a light brown, the breast, the
underfeathers of the 2nd and 3d joint of the wings, the Short feathers on
the upper part of the 3rd joint of the wings, down the back the rump &
tail white. The large feathers of the 1st joints of the wing the upper
feathers of the 2d joints of the wings, on the body on the joints of the
wing and the bill is black. — the legs long and of a Skie blue. The
feet webed &c. This fowl may be properly Stiled the Missouri Pleaver — the
wind became verry Hard and we put too on the L. Side, as the wind
Continued with Some degree of violence and the waves too high for the
Canoes we were obliged to Stay all day
[Lewis, May 1, 1805]
May 1st 1805. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind the weight one
pound. — eye black percing and prominent
Measure F. Inchs from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the beak 1 10
from tip to tip of wing when extended 2 5 length of beak 3 5/8 length of
tale 3 1/8 length of leg and toe 10
the legs are flat, of pale skye blue colour and but slightly imbricated.
the second joint, as low as the mustle extends is covered with feathers
which is about half it's length. it has three toes on a foot connected by
a web. there is also a small toe on each foot placed about the eighth of
an inch up the leg behind. the nails are black and short and those of the
middle toes ar singular — there being two nails on each the one above the
other the upper one the longest and sharpest. — the tale contains eleven
feathers of the same length of a bluish white colour. the body and under
side of the wings except the large feathers of the 1 & 2cd joints of
the wings are white, as are also the feathers of the upper part of the 4th
joint of the wing. and some of those of the 3rd adjoining. — the large
feathers of the pinion or first (joint) & the second joint are black;
a part of the larger feathers of the third joint on the upper side and all
the smaller feathers which cover the upper part of these joints ar black;
as are also the tuft of long feathers on each side of the body above the
joining of the wing, leaving however a stripe of white between them on the
back. the head and neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and is a
light brickdust brown. the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins
the head and from thence tapering every way gradually to a very sharp
point the upper beak being 1/8 of an inch the longest turning down at the
point. the nostrils are parrallal with the beak and are long narrow and
connected. the beak is curvated and invirted; the Curvature being upwards
in stead of downwards as those of most birds are — the substance of
the beak is as flexable as whalebone and at a little distance precisely
resembles that substance. their note is like that of the common whistling
or grey plover tho reather louder, and more varied, and their habits are
the same with that bird so far as I have been enabled to learn, with this
difference however that this bird sometimes lights in the water and swims. — it
generally feads about the shallow bars of the river; to collect it's food,
it immerces it's beak in the water, and thows it's head and beak from side
to side at every step it takes.
[Lewis, May 2, 1805]
Thursday May 2ed 1805 The wind continued violent all night nor did it
abate much of it's violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended
with snow which continued to fall untill about 10 A.M. being about one
inch deep, it formed a singular contrast with the vegitation which was
considerably advanced. some flowers had put forth in the plains, and the
leaves of the cottonwood were as large as a dollar. sent out some hunters
who killed 2 deer 3 Elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we
also shot three beaver along the shore; these anamals in consequence of
not being hunted are extreemly gentle, where they are hunted they never
leave their lodges in the day, the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a
delecacy among us; I think the tale a most delicious morsal, when boiled
it resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is
usually sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal for two men. Joseph
Fields one of the hunters who was out today found several yards of scarlet
cloth which had been suspended on the bough of a tree near an old indian
hunting camp, where it had been left as a sacrefice to the deity by the
indians, probably of the Assinniboin nation, it being a custom with them
as well as all the nations inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so far as
they are known to us, to offer or sacrefice in this manner to the deity
watever they may be possessed off which they think most acceptable to him,
and very honestly making their own feelings the test of those of the deity
offer him the article which they most prize themselves. this being the
most usual method of weshiping the great sperit as they term the deity, is
practiced on interesting occasions, or to produce the happy eventuation of
the important occurrances incident to human nature, such as relief from
hungar or mallady, protection from their enemies or the delivering them
into their hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the river's
overflowing and distroying their crops &c. screfices of a similar kind
are also made to the deceased by their friends and relatives. the are was
very piercing this evening the water friezed on the oars as they rowed.
the wind dying at 5 P.M. we set out.
every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they call big
medicine, and is the opperation of the presnts and power of the great
sperit. this morning one of the men shot the indian dog that had followed
us for several days, he would steal their cooked provision.
[Clark, May 2, 1805]
May 2nd Thursday 1805 The wind blew verry hard all the last night, this
morning about Sunrise began to Snow, (The Thermomtr. at 28 abov o) and
Continued untill about 10 oClock, at which time it Seased, the wind
Continued hard untill about 2 P.M. the Snow which fell to day was about 1
In deep, a verry extroadernaley Climate, to behold the trees Green &
flowers Spred on the plain, & Snow an inch deep. we Set out about 3
oClock and proceeded on about five 1/2 miles and encamped on the Std Side,
the evening verry cold, Ice freesing to the Ores, I Shot a large beaver
& Drewyer three in walking on the bank, the flesh of those animals the
party is fond of eating &c.
[Lewis, May 3, 1805]
Friday May 3rd 1805. The morning being very could we did not set out as
early as usual; ice formed on a kettle of water 1/4 of an inch thick. the
snow has melted generally in the bottoms, but the hills still remain
covered. on the lard side at the distance of 2 miles we passed a curious
collection of bushes which had been tyed up in the form of a faciene and
standing on end in the open bottom it appeared to be about 30 feet high
and ten or twelve feet in diameter, this we supposed to have been placed
there by the Indians, as a sacrefice for some purpose. The wind continued
to blow hard from the West but not so strong as to compel us to ly by.
Capt. Clark walked on shore and killed an Elk which he caused to be
butched by the time I arrived with the party, here we halted and dined
being about 12 OCk. our usual time of halting for that purpose. after
dinner Capt. Clark pursued his walk, while I continued with the party, it
being a rule which we had established, never to be absent at the same time
from the party. the plains or high lands are much less elivated than they
were, not being more than from 50 to 60 feet above the river bottom, which
is also wider than usual being from 5 to 9 ms. in width; traces of the
ancient beds of the river are visible in many places through the whole
extent of this valley. since the hills have become lower the appearance of
the stratas of coal burnt hills and pumice stone have in a great measure
ceased; I saw none today. we saw vast quantities of Buffaloe, Elk, deer
principally of the long tale kind, Antelope or goats, beaver, geese,
ducks, brant and some swan. near the entrance of the river mentioned in
the 10th course of this day, we saw an unusual number of Porcupines from
which we determined to call the river after that anamal, and accordingly
denominated it Porcupine river. this stream discharges itself into the
Missouri on the Stard. side 2000 miles above the mouth of the latter, it
is a beatifull bold runing stream, 40 yards wide at it's entrance; the
water is transparent, it being the first of this discription that I have
yet seen discharge itself into the Missouri; before it enters a large sand
bar through which it discharges itself into the missouri it's banks and
bottom are formed of a stiff blue and black clay; it appears to be
navigable for canoes and perogues at this time and I have no doubt but it
might be navigated with boats of a considerable size in high water. it's
banks appear to be from 8 to ten feet high and seldom overflow; from the
quantity of water furnished by this river, the appearance of the country,
the direction it pursues, and the situation of it's entrance, I have but
little doubt but it takes it's source not far from the main body of the
Suskashawan river, and that it is probably navigable 150 miles; perhaps
not very distant from that river. should this be the case, it would afford
a very favorable communication to the Athebaskay country, from whence the
British N. W. Company derive so large a portion of their valuable furs. — Capt.
Clark who ascended this river several miles and passed it above where it
entered the hills informed me on his return that he found the general
width of the bed of the river about one hundred yards, where he passed the
river the bed was 112 yards wide, the water was knee deep and 38 yard in
width; the river which he could observe from the rising grounds for about
20 miles, bore a little to the East of North. there was a considerable
portion of timber in the bottom lands of this river. Capt Clark also met
with limestone on the surface of the earth in the course of his walk. he
also saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the W of N , their
direction being N. W. the country in the neighborhood of this river, and
as far as the eye can reach, is level, fertile, open and beatifull beyond
discription. 1/4 of a mile above the entrance of this river a large creek
falls in which we called 2000 mile creek. I sent Rubin Fields to examine
it, he reported it to be a bold runing stream, it's bed 30 yards wide. we
proceeded about 3 miles abov this creek and encamped on the Stard. shore.
I walked out a little distance and met with 2 porcupines which were
feeding on the young willow which grow in great abundance on all the
sandbars; this anamal is exceedingly clumsy and not very watchfull I
approached so near one of them before it percieved me that I touched it
with my espontoon. — found the nest of a wild goose among some
driftwood in the river from which we took three eggs. this is the only
nest we have met with on driftwood, the usual position is the top of a
broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a large tree but almost invariably,
from 15 to 20 feet or upwards high.
[Clark, May 3, 1805]
May 3rd Friday 1805 we Set out reather later this morning than usial owing
to weather being verry cold, a frost last night and the Thermt. Stood this
morning at 26 above 0 which is 6 Degrees blow freeseing — the ice that
was on the Kittle left near the fire last night was 1/4 of an inch thick.
The Snow is all or nearly all off the low bottoms, the Hills are entireley
Covered. three of our party found in the back of a bottom 3 pieces of
Scarlet one brace in each, which had been left as a Sacrifice near one of
their Swet houses, on the L. S. we passed to day a curious collection of
bushes tied up in the shape of fascene about 10 feet diamuter, which must
have been left also by the natives as an offering to their medison which
they Convinced protected or gave them relief near the place, the wind
Continued to blow hard from the West, altho not Sufficently So to detain
us, I walked on Shore and killed an Elk & had him bucchured by the
time the Perogus Came up which was the usial time of dineing. The high
lands are low and from 8 to 9 miles apart and there is evident marks of
the bead of the river having been changed frequently but little appearance
of the Coal & burnt hills to day- Great numbers of Buffalow, Elk,
Deer, antilope, beaver, Porcupins, & water fowls Seen to day, Such as,
Geese, ducks of dift. kinds, & a fiew Swan — I continued my walk
on Shore after dinner, and arrived at the mouth of a river on the St.
Side, which appeared to be large, and I concluded to go up this river a
few miles to examine it accordingly I Set out North 1 mile thro wood or
timbered bottom, 2 miles through a butifull leavel plain, and 1 mile over
a high plain about 50 feet higher than the bottom & Came to the little
river, which I found to be a butifull clear Stream of about 100 yds. from
bank to bank, (I waded this river at the narrowest part and made it 112
Steps from bank to bank and at this place which was a kind of fording
place the water was near Knee deep, and 38 steps wide, the bottom of a
hard stiff Black Clay,) I observed a Great perportion of timber in the
bottoms of this river as far as I could See which was to the East of N. 18
or 20 miles, it appears to be navigable at this time for Canoes, and from
appearances must be navagable a long distance for Perogus & boats in
high water. This river we call Porcupine from the great number of those
anamals found about it's mouth. — a Short distance above about 1/4
mile and on the Lard Side a large Creek falls in, which R. Fields went to
examine & reports that it is a bold running Stream, 30 yds wide as
this Creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri we Call it the 2000 mile Creek,
we proceeded on 3 miles & Camped on the S. S. here I joined Capt Lewis
who had in my absens walkd. on the upper Side of Porcupine River for Some
distance — This river from its Size & quantity of water must head
at no great distance from the Saskashawan on this river I Saw emence herds
Elk & Buffalow & many deer & Porcupine. I also Saw the top of
a mountain which did not appear verry high to the West of N. & bore N
W. I Saw on the high land limestone & pebble — The Countrey about
the mouth of this river and as far as the eye Can reach is butifull open
Countrey. The greater part of the Snow is melted.
[Lewis, May 4, 1805]
Saturday May 4th 1805. We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk.
in order to repare the rudder irons of the red perogue which were broken
last evening in landing; we then set out, the wind hard against us. I
walked on shore this morning, the weather was more plesant, the snow has
disappeared; the frost seems to have effected the vegetation much less
than could have been expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the
box alder willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely touched;
the rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned the most considerable
injury. The country on both sides of the Missouri continues to be open
level fertile and beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from some
of the eminences is not short of 30 miles. the river bottoms are very
extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber than usual; the
fore part of this day the river was bordered with timber on both sides, a
circumstance which is extreemly rare and the first which has occurred of
any thing like the same extent since we left the Mandans, in the after
part of the day we passed an extensive beautifull plain on the Stard. side
which gradually ascended from the river. I saw immence quantities of
buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer and goats; having an
abundance of meat on hand I passed them without firing on them; they are
extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe particularly will scarcely give way to
you. I passed several in the open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me
for a moment as something novel and then very unconcernedly continued to
feed. Capt. Clark walked on shore this evening and did not rejoin us
untill after dark, he struck the river several miles above our camp and
came down to us. we saw many beaver some which the party shot, we also
killed two deer today. much sign of the brown bear. passed several old
Indian hunting camps in the course of the day one of them contained two
large lodges which were fortifyed with old driftwood and fallen timber;
this fortification consisted of a circular fence of timber lade
horizontally laping on and over laying each other to the hight of 5 feet.
these pounds are sometimes built from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and
covered over with the trunks and limbs of old timber. the usual
construction of the lodges we have lately passed is as follows. three or
more strong sticks the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet
long are attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these
are then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of ten twelve
or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and fallen timber of
convenient size are now placed with one end on the ground and the other
resting against those which are secured together at top by the with and
which support and give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid on
untill they make it as thick as they design, usually about three ranges,
each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the two beneath it,
the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet high with a small
apperture in one side which answers as a door. leaves bark and straw are
sometimes thrown over the work to make it more complete, but at best it
affords a very imperfect shelter particularly without straw which is the
state in which we have most usually found them.
At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not obtain his maridian
Altitude which I much wished in order to fix the latitude of the entrance
of Porcupine river. Joseph Fields was very sick today with the disentary
had a high fever I gave him a doze of Glauber salts, which operated very
well, in the evening his fever abated and I gave him 30 drops of laudnum.
[Clark, May 4, 1805]
May 4th Satturday 1805 The rudder Irons of our large Perogue broke off
last night, the replaceing of which detained us this morning untill 9
oClock at which time we Set out the wind a head from the west, The
Countrey on each Side of the Missouri is a rich high and butifull the
bottoms are extencive with a great deal of timber on them all the fore
part of this day the wood land bordered the river on both Sides, in the
after part a butifull assending plain on the Std Side we Camped on the
Std. Side a little above we passed a Small Creek on the L. Side near which
I Saw where an Indian lodge had been fortified many year past. Saw great
numbers of anamals of different kinds on the banks, I Saw the black martin
to day-in the evening I walkd. on Shore on the Std Side & Struck the
river Several miles above our Camp & did not get to Camp untill Some
time after night — we have one man Sick, The river has been falling
for Several days passed; it now begins to rise a little; the rate of rise
& fall is from one to 3 inches in 24 hours.
[Lewis, May 5, 1805]
Sunday May 5th 1805 A fine morning I walked on shore untill 8 A M when we
halted for breakfast and in the course of my walk killed a deer which I
carried about a mile and a half to the river, it was in good order. soon
after seting out the rudder irons of the white perogue were broken by her
runing fowl on a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with
some tugs of raw hide and nales. as usual saw a great quantity of game
today; Buffaloe Elk and goats or Antelopes feeding in every direction; we
kill whatever we wish, the buffaloe furnish us with fine veal and fat
beef, we also have venison and beaver tales when we wish them; the flesh
of the Elk and goat are less esteemed, and certainly are inferior. we have
not been able to take any fish for some time past. The country is as
yesterday beatifull in the extreme.
saw the carcases of many Buffaloe lying dead along the shore partially
devoured by the wolves and bear. saw a great number of white brant also
the common brown brant, geese of the common kind and a small species of
geese which differ considerably from the common canadian goose; their neck
head and beak are considerably thicker shorter and larger than the other
in proportion to it's size, they are also more than a third smaller, and
their note more like that of the brant or a young goose which has not
perfectly acquired his notes, in all other rispects they are the same in
colour habits and the number of feathers in the tale, they frequently also
ascociate with the large geese when in flocks, but never saw them pared
off with the large or common goose. The white brant ascociate in very
large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or pared off as if they
intended to raise their young in this quarter, I therefore doubt whether
they reside here during the summer for that purpose.
this bird is about the size of the common brown brant or two thirds of the
common goose, it is not so long by six inches from point to point of the
wings when extended as the other; the beak head and neck are also larger
and stronger; their beak legs and feet are of a redish or fleshcoloured
white. the eye is of moderate size, the puple of a deep sea green
incircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has sixteen feathers of equal
length in the tale; their note differs but little from the common brant,
their flesh much the same, and in my opinion preferable to the goose, the
flesh is dark. they are entirely of a beatifull pure white except the
large feathers of the 1st and second joints of the wings which are jut
black. form and habits are the same with the other brant; they sometimes
ascociate and form one common flock. Capt Clark found a den of young
wolves in the course of his walk today and also saw a great number of
those anamals; they are very abundant in this quarter, and are of two
species the small woolf or burrowing dog of the praries are the
inhabitants almost invariably of the open plains; they usually ascociate
in bands of ten or twelve sometimes more and burrow near some pass or
place much frequented by game; not being able alone to take a deer or goat
they are rarely ever found alone but hunt in bands; they frequently watch
and seize their prey near their burrows; in these burrows they raise their
young and to them they also resort when pursued; when a person approaches
them they frequently bark, their note being precisely that of the small
dog. they are of an intermediate size between that of the fox and dog,
very active fleet and delicately formed; the ears large erect and pointed
the head long and pointed more like that of the fox; tale long; the hair
and fur also resembles the fox tho is much coarser and inferior. they are
of a pale redish brown colour. the eye of a deep sea green colour small
and piercing. their tallons are reather longer than those of the ordinary
wolf or that common to the atlantic states, none of which are to be found
in this quarter, nor I believe above the river Plat. — The large woolf
found here is not as large as those of the atlantic states. they are lower
and thicker made shorter leged. their colour which is not effected by the
seasons, is a grey or blackish brown and every intermediate shade from
that to a creen coloured white; these wolves resort the woodlands and are
also found in the plains, but never take refuge in the ground or burrow so
far as I have been able to inform myself. we scarcely see a gang of
buffaloe without observing a parsel of those faithfull shepherds on their
skirts in readiness to take care of the mamed & wounded. the large
wolf never barks, but howls as those of the atlantic states do. Capt.
Clark and Drewyer killed the largest brown bear this evening which we have
yet seen. it was a most tremendious looking anamal, and extreemly hard to
kill notwithstanding he had five balls through his lungs and five others
in various parts he swam more than half the distance acoss the river to a
sandbar & it was at least twenty minutes before he died; he did not
attempt to attact, but fled and made the most tremendous roaring from the
moment he was shot. We had no means of weighing this monster; Capt. Clark
thought he would weigh 500 lbs. for my own part I think the estimate too
small by 100 lbs. he measured 8 Feet 71/2 Inches from the nose to the
extremety of the hind feet, 5 F. to 1/2 Inch arround the breast, 1 F. 11
I. arround the middle of the arm, & 3 F. 11 I. arround the neck; his
tallons which were five in number on each foot were 4 1/8 Inches in
length. he was in good order, we therefore divided him among the party and
made them boil the oil and put it in a cask for future uce; the oil is as
hard as hogs lard when cool, much more so than that of the black bear.
this bear differs from the common black bear in several respects; it's
tallons are much longer and more blont, it's tale shorter, it's hair which
is of a redish or bey brown, is longer thicker and finer than that of the
black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much larger even in proportion
with his size; the heart particularly was as large as that of a large Ox.
his maw was also ten times the size of black bear, and was filled with
flesh and fish. his testicles were pendant from the belly and placed four
inches assunder in seperate bags or pouches. — this animal also feeds
on roots and almost every species of wild fruit.
The party killed two Elk and a Buffaloe today, and my dog caught a goat,
which he overtook by superior fleetness, the goat it must be understood
was with young and extreemly poor. a great number of these goats are
devowered by the wolves and bear at this season when they are poor and
passing the river from S. W. to N. E. they are very inactive and easily
taken in the water, a man can out swim them with great ease; the Indians
take them in great numbers in the river at this season and in autumn when
they repass to the S. W.
[Clark, May 5, 1805]
5th of May Sunday 1805 We Set out verry early and had not proceeded far
before the rudder Irons of one of the Perogus broke which detained us a
Short time Capt Lewis walked on Shore this morning and killed a Deer,
after brackfast I walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Buffalow & Elk
Saw also a Den of young wolves, and a number of (frown wolves in every
direction, the white & Grey Brant is in this part of the Missouri I
shot at the white brant but at So great a distance I did not kill, The
Countrey on both sides is as yesterday, handsom & fertile — The
river rising & Current Strong & in the evening we Saw a Brown or
Grisley beare on a Sand beech, I went out with one man Geo. Drewyer &
Killed the bear, which was verry large and a turrible looking animal,
which we found verry hard to kill we Shot ten Balls into him before we
killed him, & 5 of those Balls through his lights This animal is the
largest of the Carnivorous kind I ever Saw we had nothing that could way
him, I think his weight may be Stated at 500 pounds, he measured 8 feet
71/2 In. from his nose to the extremity of the Toe, 5 feet 101/2 in.
arround the breast, 1 feet 11 Ins. around the middle of the arm, 3 feet 11
Ins. arround the neck his tallents was 4 Inches &3/8 long, he was good
order, and appeared verry different from the Common black bear in as much
as his tallents were blunt, his tail Short, his liver & lights much
larger, his maw ten times as large and Contained meat or flesh & fish
only — we had him Skined and divided, the oile tried up & put in
Kegs for use. we Camped on the Stard Side, our men killed three Elk and a
Buffalow to day, and our Dog Cought an antilope a fair race, this animal
appeared verry pore & with young.
[Lewis, May 6, 1805]
Monday May 6th 1805. The morning being fair and pleasant and wind
favourable we set sale at an early hour, and proceeded on very well the
greater part of the day; the country still continues level fertile and
beautifull, the bottoms wide and well timbered comparitively speaking with
other parts of the river; no appearance of birnt hills pumice stone or
coal, the salts of tartar or vegitable salts continues to appear on the
river banks, sand bars and in many parts of the plains most generally in
the little revines at the base of the low hills. passed three streames
today which discharged themselves on the Lard. side; the first of these we
call little dry creek it contained some water in standing pools but
discharged none, the 2ed 50 yards wide no Water, we called it Big dry
Creek, the 3rd is bed of a conspicuous river 200 yards wide which we
called little dry river; the banks of these streams are low and bottoms
wide with but little timber, their beds are almost entirely formed of a
fine brown sand intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles,
which were either transparent, white, green, red, yellow or brown. these
streams appeared to continue their width without diminution as far as we
could perceive them, which with rispect to the river was many miles, they
had recenly discharged their waters. from the appearance of these streams,
and the country through which they passed, we concluded that they had
their souces in level low dry plains, which probably is the character of
the country for a great distance west of this, or to the vicinity of the
black hills, that the country being low on the same level nearly and in
the same parallel of latitude, that the rains in the spring of the year
suddonly melts the snow at the same time and causes for a few days a vast
quantity of water which finds it's way to the Missouri through those
channels; by reference to the diary of the weather &c it will be
percieved that there is scarcely any rain during the summer Autumn and
winter in this open country distant from the mountains. Fields still
continues unwell. saw a brown bear swim the river above us, he disappeared
before we can get in reach of him; I find that the curiossity of our party
is pretty well satisfyed with rispect to this anamal, the formidable
appearance of the male bear killed on the 5th added to the difficulty with
which they die when even shot through the vital parts, has staggered the
resolution several of them, others however seem keen for action with the
bear; I expect these gentlemen will give us some amusement shotly as they
soon begin now to coppolate. saw a great quantity of game of every species
common here. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed two Elk, they were not
in very good order, we therefore took a part of the meat only; it is now
only amusement for Capt. C. and myself to kill as much meat as the party
can consum; I hope it may continue thus through our whole rout, but this I
do not much expect. two beaver were taken in traps this morning and one
since shot by one of the party. saw numbers of these anamals peeping at us
as we passed out of their wholes which they form of a cilindric shape, by
burrowing in the face of the abbrupt banks of the river.
[Clark, May 6, 1805]
May 6th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N. E. we Set out early
and proceeded on verry well under Sail the greater part of the day, passed
two Creeks & a River to day on the Lard. Side, neither of them
discharged any water into the Missouri, they were wide and Continued their
width for Some distance, the little water of those Creeks & the little
river must wash the low Country, I believe those Streams to be the
Conveyance of the water of the heavy rains & melting Snows in the
Countrey back &c. &c. I walked on Shore and Killed two Elk neither
of which was fat, we saved the best of the meat, one beaver Shot to day.
the countrey on both Sides butifull no appearances of either Coal or
pumice Stone & burnt hills, The Salts of Tarter or white aprs. of
Salts are yet to be Seen.
[Lewis, May 7, 1805]
Tuesday May 7th 1805. A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift
wood begins to come down in consequence of the river's rising; the water
is somewhat clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not expect on it's
rise. at 11 A.M. the wind became so hard that we were compelled to ly by
for several hours, one of the small canoes by the bad management of the
steersman filled with water and had very nearly sunk; we unloaded her and
dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in some measure
abated. the country we passed today on the North side of the river is one
of the most beautifull plains we have yet seen, it rises gradually from
the river bottom to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, then becoming level as a
bowling green. extends back as far as the eye can reach; on the S. side
the river hills are more broken and much higher tho some little destance
back the country becomes level and fertile. no appearance of birnt hills
coal or pumicestone, that of salts still continue. vegitation appears to
have advanced very little since the 28th Ulto. — we continue to see a
great number of bald Eagles, I presume they must feed on the carcases of
dead anamals, for I see no fishing hawks to supply them with their
favorite food. the water of the river is so terbid that no bird wich feeds
exclusively on fish can subsist on it; from it's mouth to this place I
have neither seen the blue crested fisher nor a fishing hawk. this day we
killed 3 Buffaloe 1 Elk & 8 beaver; two of the Buffaloe killed by Capt
Clark near our encampment of this evening wer in good order dressed them
and saved the meat, the Elk I killed this morning, thought it fat, but on
examineation found it so lean that we took the tongue marrowbones and Skin
only.
[Clark, May 7, 1805]
May 7th Tuesday, 1805 A fine morning river rose 11/2 Inches last night,
the drift wood beginning to run the water Something Clearer than usial,
the wind became verry hard, and at 11 oClock one Canoe by bad Stearing
filled with water, which detained us about 3 hours, had a Meridian
altitude, the Laid. from which is 47°36' 11" 6/10 The Countrey on the
North Side of the Missouri is one of the handsomest plains we have yet
Seen on the river the plain rises from the river bottom gradually. The
Hills on the South Side is high & uneavin. no appearance of Coal or
burnt hills, that of Salts Still appear; vegitation appears to be Slow, I
walked on the bank to day and Shot 2 beaver, in the evening Killed two
Buffalow in tolerable order which we Saved and Camped on the Lard Side. 8
beaver, 3 buffalow & an Elk killed to day
[Lewis, May 8, 1805]
Wednesday May 8th 1805. Set out at an early hour under a gentle brieze
from the East. a black cloud which suddonly sprung up at S. E. soon over
shaddowed the horizon; at 8 A.M. it gave us a slight sprinke of rain, the
wind became much stronger but not so much so as to detain us. we nooned it
just above the entrance of a large river which disimbogues on the Lard.
side; I took the advantage of this leasure moment and examined the river
about 3 miles; I found it generally 150 yards wide, and in some places
200. it is deep, gentle in it's courant and affords a large boddy of
water; it's banks which are formed of a dark rich loam and blue clay are
abbrupt and about 12 feet high. it's bed is principally mud. I have no
doubt but it is navigable for boats perogues and canoes, for the latter
probably a great distance. the bottoms of this stream ar wide, level,
fertile and possess a considerable proportion of timber, principally
Cottonwood. from the quantity of water furnised by this river it must
water a large extent of country; perhaps this river also might furnish a
practicable and advantageous communication with the Saskashiwan river; it
is sufficiently large to justify a belief that it might reach to that
river if it's direction be such. the water of this river possesses a
peculiar whiteness, being about the colour of a cup of tea with the
admixture of a tablespoonful) of milk. from the colour of it's water we
called it Milk river. (we think it possible that this may be the river
called by the Minitares the river which scoalds at all others or ____)
Capt Clark who walked this morning on the Lard. shore ascended a very high
point opposite to the mouth of this river; he informed me that he had a
perfect view of this river and the country through which it passed for a
great distance (probably 50 or 60 Miles,) that the country was level and
beautifull on both sides of the river, with large herds of Buffaloe
distributed throughout that the river from it's mouth boar N. W. for 12 or
15 Miles when it forked, the one taking a direction nearly North, and the
other to the West of N. West. from the appearance of the vallies and the
timber on each of these streams Capt. C. supposed that they were about the
same size. great appearance of beaver on this river, and I have no doubt
but what they continue abundant, there being plenty of cottonwood and
willow, the timber on which they subsist. The country on the Lard. side of
the river is generally high broken hills, with much broken, grey black and
brown grannite scattered on the surface of the earth in a confused manner.
The wild Licquorice is found on the sides of these hills, in great
abundance. at a little distance from the river there is no timber to be
seen on either side; the bottom lands are not more than one fifth covered
with timber; the timber as below is confined to the borders of the river.
in future it will be understood that there is no timber of any discription
on the upland unless particularly mentioned; and also that one fifth of
the bottom lands being covered with timber is considered a large
proportion. The white apple is found in great abundance in this
neighbourhood; it is confined to the highlands principally. The
whiteapple, so called by the French Engages, is a plant which rises to the
hight of 6 or 9 Inchs. rarely exceeding a foot; it puts forth from one to
four and sometimes more stalks from the same root, but is most generally
found with one only, which is branched but not defusely, is cylindric and
villose; the leafstalks, cylindric, villose and very long compared with
the hight of the plant, tho gradually diminish in length as they ascend,
and are irregular in point of position; the leaf, digitate, from three to
five in number, oval 1 Inch long, absolutely entire and cottony; the whole
plant of a pale green, except the under disk of the leaf which is of a
white colour from the cottony substance with which it is covered. the
radix a tuberous bulb; generally ova formed, sometimes longer and more
rarely partially divided or brancing; always attended with one or more
radicles at it's lower extremity which sink from 4 to 6 inches deep. the
bulb covered with a rough black, tough, thin rind which easily seperates
from the bulb which is a fine white substance, somewhat porus, spungy and
moist, and reather tough before it is dressed; the center of the bulb is
penitrated with a small tough string or ligament, which passing from the
bottom of the stem terminates in the extremity of the radicle, which last
is also covered by a prolongation of the rind which invellopes the bulb.
The bulb is usually found at the debth of 4 inches and frequently much
deeper. This root forms a considerable article of food with the Indians of
the Missouri, who for this purpose prepare them in several ways. they are
esteemed good at all seasons of the year, but are best from the middle of
July to the latter end of Autumn when they are sought and gathered by the
provident part of the natives for their winter store. when collected they
are striped of their rhind and strung on small throngs or chords and
exposed to the sun or placed in the smoke of their fires to dry; when well
dryed they will keep for several years, provided they are not permitted to
become moist or damp; in this situation they usually pound them between
two stones placed on a piece of parchment, untill they reduce it to a fine
powder thus prepared they thicken their soope with it; sometimes they also
boil these dryed roots with their meat without breaking them; when green
they are generally boiled with their meat, sometimes mashing them or
otherwise as they think proper. they also prepare an agreeable dish with
them by boiling and mashing them and adding the marrow grease of the
buffaloe and some buries, until the whole be of the consistency of a
haisty pudding. they also eat this root roasted and frequently make hearty
meals of it raw without sustaining any inconvenience or injury therefrom.
The White or brown bear feed very much on this root, which their tallons
assist them to procure very readily. the white apple appears to me to be a
tastless insippid food of itself tho I have no doubt but it is a very
healthy and moderately nutricious food. I have no doubt but our epicures
would admire this root very much, it would serve them in their ragouts and
gravies in stead of the truffles morella.
We saw a great number buffaloe, Elk, common and Black taled deer, goats
beaver and wolves. Capt C. killed a beaver and a wolf, the party killed 3
beaver and a deer. We can send out at any time and obtain whatever species
of meat the country affords in as large quantity as we wish. we saw where
an Indian had recently grained, or taken the hair off of a goatskin; we do
not wish to see those gentlemen just now as we presume they would most
probably be the Assinniboins and might be troublesome to us. Capt C. could
not be certain but thought he saw the smoke and some Indian lodges at a
considrable distance up Milk river.
[Clark, May 8, 1805]
May the 8th Wednesday 1805 a verry black Cloud to the S W. we Set out
under a gentle breeze from the N. E. about 8 oClock began to rain, but not
Sufficient to wet, we passed the mouth of a large river on the Starboard
Side 150 yards wide and appears to be navagable. the Countrey thro which
it passes as far as Could be seen from the top of a verry high hill on
which I was, a butifull leavil plain this river forks about N W from its
mouth 12 or 15 miles one fork runs from the North & the other to the
West of N W. the water of this river will justify a belief that it has its
Sourse at a considerable distance, and waters a great extent of Countrey — we
are willing to believe that this is the River the Minitarres Call the
river which Scolds at all others
the Countrey on the Lard. Side is high & broken with much Stone
Scattered on the hills, In walking on Shore with the Interpreter & his
wife, the Squar Geathered on the Sides of the hills wild Lickerish, &
the white apple as called by the angegies and gave me to eat, the Indians
of the Missouri make great use of the white apple dressed in different
ways — Saw great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, antelope & Deer, also
black tale deer beaver & wolves, I killed a beaver which I found on
the bank, & a wolf. The party killed 3 Beaver 1 Deer I saw where an
Indian had taken the hair off a goat Skin a fiew days past — Camped
early on the Lard. Side. The river we passed today we call Milk river from
the peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely resembles tea with a
considerable mixture of milk.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
Thursday May 9th 1805. Set out at an early hour; the wind being favourable
we used our sails and proceeded very well; the country in appearance is
much as yester, with this difference that the land appears more fertile
particularly of the Lard. hills which are not so stoney and less broken;
the timber has also in some measure declined in quantity. today we passed
the bed of the most extraordinary river that I ever beheld. it is as wide
as the Missouri is at this place or 1/2 a mile wide and not containing a
single drop of runing water; some small standing pools being all the water
that could be per-ceived. it falls in on the Lard. side. I walked up this
river about three miles and ascended an eminence from which I could
perceive it many miles; it's course about South for 10 or 12 miles, when
it viered around to the E of S. E. as far as I could see. the valley of
this river is wide and possesses but a scanty proportion of timber; the
hills which border it are not very high nor is the country very broken; it
is what may properly be designated a wavy or roling country intersperced
with some handsom level plains. the bank are low and abbrupt, seldom more
than 6 or eight feet above the level of the bed, yet show but little
appearance of being overflown; they are of black or yellow clay or a rich
sandy loam. the bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand the
particles of which as well as that of the Missoury are remarkably fine.
this river I presume must extend back as far as the black hills and
probably is the channel through which a great extent of plain country
discharge their superfluous waters in the spring season. it had the
appearance of having recently discharged it's waters; and from the
watermark, it did not appear that it had been more than 2 feet deep at
it's greatest hight. This stream (if such it can properly be termed) we
called Big dry river. about a mile below this river on the same side a
large creek falls in also dry at present. The mineral salts and quarts
appear in large quantities in this neighbourhood. the sand of the Missouri
from it's mouth to this place has always possessed a mixture of granulated
talk or I now think most probably that it is this quarts. Capt C. killed 2
bucks and 2 buffaloe, I also killed one buffaloe which proved to be the
best meat, it was in tolerable order; we saved the best of the meat, and
from the cow I killed we saved the necessary materials for making what our
wrighthand cook Charbono calls the boudin blanc, and immediately set him
about preparing them for supper; this white pudding we all esteem one of
the greatest delacies of the forrest, it may not be amiss therefore to
give it a place. About 6 feet of the lower extremity of the large gut of
the Buffaloe is the first mosel that the cook makes love to, this he holds
fast at one end with the right hand, while with the forefinger and thumb
of the left he gently compresses it, and discharges what he says is not
good to eat, but of which in the squel we get a moderate portion; the
mustle lying underneath the shoulder blade next to the back, and fillets
are next saught, these are needed up very fine with a good portion of
kidney suit; to this composition is then added a just proportion of pepper
and salt and a small quantity of flour; thus far advanced, our skilfull
opporater C-o seizes his recepticle, which has never once touched the
water, for that would intirely distroy the regular order of the whole
procedure; you will not forget that the side you now see is that covered
with a good coat of fat provided the anamal be in good order; the operator
sceizes the recepticle I say, and tying it fast at one end turns it
inwards and begins now with repeated evolutions of the hand and arm, and a
brisk motion of the finger and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour
manger; thus by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the recepticle
to the utmost limmits of it's power of expansion, and in the course of
it's longtudinal progress it drives from the other end of the recepticle a
much larger portion of the ____ than was prevously discharged by the
finger and thumb of the left hand in a former part of the operation; thus
when the sides of the recepticle are skilfully exchanged the outer for the
iner, and all is compleatly filled with something good to eat, it is tyed
at the other end, but not any cut off, for that would make the pattern too
scant; it is then baptised in the missouri with two dips and a flirt, and
bobbed into the kettle; from whence after it be well boiled it is taken
and fryed with bears oil untill it becomes brown, when it is ready to
esswage the pangs of a keen appetite or such as travelers in the
wilderness are seldom at a loss for.
we saw a great quantity of game today particularly of Elk and Buffaloe,
the latter are now so gentle that the men frequently throw sticks and
stones at them in order to drive them out of the way. we also saw this
evening emence quantities of timber cut by the beaver which appeared to
have been done the preceeding year, in place particularly they had cut all
the timber down for three acres in front and on nearly one back from the
river and had removed a considerable proportion of it, the timber grew
very thick and some of it was as large as a man's body. the river for
several days has been as wide as it is generally near it's mouth, tho it
is much shallower or I should begin to dispair of ever reaching it's
source; it has been crouded today with many sandbars; the water also
appears to become clearer, it has changed it's complexin very
considerably. I begin to feel extreemly anxious to get in view of the
rocky mountains.
I killed four plover this evening of a different species from any I have
yet seen; it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any other of
this family of birds; it is about the size of the yellow legged or large
grey plover common to the lower part of this river as well as most parts
of the Atlantic States where they are sometimes called the Jack curloo;
the eye is moderately large, are black with a narrow ring of dark
yellowish brown; the head, neck, upper part of the body and coverts of the
wings are of a dove coloured brown, which when the bird is at rest is the
predominant colour; the brest and belley are of a brownish white; the tail
is composed of 12 feathers of 3 Ins. being of equal length, of these the
two in the center are black, with traverse bars of yellowish brown; the
others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings are white
tiped with blacked. the beak is black, 21/2 inches in length, slightly
tapering, streight of a cilindric form and blontly or roundly pointed; the
chaps are of equal length, and nostrils narrow. longitudional and
connected; the feet and legs are smoth and of a greenish brown; has three
long toes and a short one on each foot, the long toes are unconnected with
a web, and the short one is placed very high up the leg behind, insomuch
that it dose not touch the ground when the bird stands erect. the notes of
this bird are louder and more various than any other of this family that I
have seen.
[Clark, May 9, 1805]
May 9th Thursday 1805 a fine Day wind from the East we proceeded on verry
well the Countrey much the appearance which it had yesterday the bottom
& high land rich black earth, Timber not so abondant as below, we
passed the mouth of a river (or the appearance of a river) on the Lard.
Side the bend of which as far as we went up it or could See from a high
hill is as large as that of the Missouri at this place which is near half
a mile this river did not Contain one drop of running water, about a mile
below this river a large Creeke joins the river L. S. which is also Dry-
Those dry Streams which are also verry wide, I think is the Conveyance of
the melted Snow, & heavy rains which is Probable fall in from the high
mountanious Countrey which is Said to be between this river & the
Yellow Stone river — I walked on Shore the fore part of this day,
& observed Great quantities of the Shining Stone which we view as
quarts, I killed 2 Bucks & a Buffalow, Capt Lewis also killed one
which verry good meat, I saw emunerable herds of buffalow, & goats to
day in every derection — The Missouri keeps its width which is nearly
as wide as near its mouth, great number of Sand bars, the water not So
muddy & Sand finer & in Smaller perpotion. Capt. Lewis killed 4
pleaver different from any I have ever before Seen, larger & have
white breast & the underfeathers of the wings are white &c.
[Lewis, May 9, 1805]
May 9th 1805. I killed four plover this evening of a different kind from
any I have yet seen. it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than
any other of this family of birds, tho it is much larger. it is about the
size of the yellow leged plover common to the U States, and called the
jack curlooe by some. the legs are of a greenish brown; the toes, three
and one high at the heel unconnected with a webb, the breast and belly of
a brownish white; the head neck upper part of the body and coverts of the
wings are of a dove colured brown which when the bird is at rest is the
predomanent colour. the tale has 12 feathers of the same length of which
the two in the center are black with transverse bars of yellowish bron,
the others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings are white
tiped with black. the eyes are black with a small ring of dark yellowish
brown — the beak is black, 21/2 inches long, cilindrical, streight,
and roundly or blountly pointed. the notes of this bird are louder and
more various than of any other species which I have seen.
[Lewis, May 10, 1805]
Friday May 10th 1805. Set out at sunrise and proceeded but a short
distance ere the wind became so violent that we were obliged to come too,
which we did on the Lard. side in a suddon or short bend of the river
where we were in a great measure sheltered from the effects of the wind.
the wind continued violent all day, the clouds were thick and black, had a
slight sprinkle of rain several times in the course of the day. we sent
out several hunters to scower the country, to this we were induced not so
much from the want of provision as to discover the Indians whome we had
reasons to believe were in the neighbourhood, from the circumstance of one
of their dogs comeing to us this morning shortly after we landed; we still
beleive ourselves in the country usually hunted by the Assinniboins, and
as they are a vicious illy disposed nation we think it best to be on our
guard, accordingly we inspected the arms and accoutrements the party and
found them all in good order. The hunters returned this evening having
seen no tents or Indians nor any fresh sign of them; they killed two Mule
deer, one common fallow or longtailed deer, 2 Buffaloe and 5 beaver, and
saw several deer of the Mule kind of immence size, and also three of the
Bighorned anamals. from the appearance of the Mule deer and the bighorned
anamals we beleive ourselves fast approaching a hilly or mountainous
country; we have rarely found the mule deer in any except a rough country;
they prefer the open grounds and are seldom found in the woodlands near
the river; when they are met with in the woodlands or river bottoms and
are pursued, they invariably run to the hills or open country as the Elk
do. the contrary happens with the common deer ther are several esscential
differences between the Mule and common deer as well in form as in habits.
they are fully a third larger in general, and the male is particularly
large; I think there is somewhat greater disparity of size between the
male and female of this speceis than there is between the male and female
fallow deer; I am convinced I have seen a buck of this species twice the
volume of a buck of any other species. the ears are peculiarly large; I
measured those of a large buck which I found to be eleven inches long and
31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not so delicately formed, their
hair in winter is thicker longer and of a much darker grey, in summer the
hair is still coarser longer and of a paleer red, more like that of the
Elk; in winter they also have a considerable quantity of a very fine wool
intermixed with the hair and lying next to the skin as the Antelope has.
the long hair which grows on the outer sides of the 1st joint of the
hinder legs, and which in the common deer do not usually occupy more than
2 inches in them occupys from 6 to eight; their horns also differ, these
in the common deer consist of two main beams from which one or more points
project the beam graduly deminishing as the points procede from it, with
the mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or
6 inches from the head divide themselves each into two equal branches
which again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in a
smaller, and two equal ones; having either 2 4 or 6 points on a beam; the
horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer and are invariably
of a much darker colour. the most striking difference of all, is the white
rump and tale. from the root of the tail as a center there is a circular
spot perfectly white, of abot 3 inches radius, which occupys a part of the
rump and extremitys of the buttocks and joins the white of the belley
underneath; the tail which is usually from 8 to 9 inches long, for the
first 4 or 5 inches from it's upper extremity is covered with short white
hairs, much shorter indeed than the hairs of the body; from hence for
about one inch further the hair is still white but gradually becomes
longer, the tail then terminates in a tissue of black hair of about 3
Inches long. from this black hair of the tail they have obtained among the
French engages the appelation of the black taled deer, but this I conceive
by no means characteristic of the anamal as much the larger portion of the
tail is white. the year and the tail of this anamal when compared with
those of the common (leer, so well comported with those of the mule when
compared with the horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the
appellation of the mule deer which I think much more appropriate. on the
inner corner of each eye there is a drane or large recepicle which seems
to answer as a drane to the eye which gives it the appearance of weeping,
this in the common deer of the atlantic states is scarcely perceptable but
becomes more conspicuous in the fallow deer, and still more so in the Elk;
this recepticle in the Elk is larger than in any of the pecora order with
which I am acquainted.
Boils and imposthumes have been very common with the party Bratton is now
unable to work with one on his hand; soar eyes continue also to be common
to all of us in a greater or less degree. for the imposthume I use
emmolient poltices, and for soar eyes a solution of white vitriol and the
sugar of lead in the proportion of 2 grs. of the former and one of the
latter to each ounce of water.
[Clark, May 10, 1805]
May the 10th Friday 1805 river fell 3/4 of an inch last night, wind from
the N. W, we proceeded on but a short distance e'r'e the wind became So
violent we could not proceed came to on the Lard. Side in a Short bend,
the wind Continued all day Several times in the course of the day We had
some fiew drops of rain from verry black Clouds, no thunder or lightning
latterly, Soon after we landed a Dog came to us from the opposit Side,
which induced a belief that we had not passd. the Assinniboin Indians,
parties wer Sent on the hills in different derections to examine but Saw
no tents or fresh Sign. examined the arms &c. of the party found all
in good order. Three mule deer, two Buffalow & 5 beaver killed, 3 of
the mountain ram Seen.
[Lewis, May 11, 1805]
Saturday May 11th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour, the courant
strong; and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very fast; I
sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are not swallowed up
by means of these immence masses of earth which are eternally
precipitating themselves into the river; we have had many hair breadth
escapes from them but providence seems so to have ordered it that we have
as yet sustained no loss in consequence of them. The wind blue very hard
the forepart of last night but abated toward morning; it again arose in
the after part of this day and retarded our progress very much. the high
lands are broken, the hills higher and approach nearer the river, tho the
soil of both hills and bottoms appear equally as furtile as below; it
consists of a black looking tome with a moderate portion of sand; the
hills and bluffs to the debth of 20 or thirty feet, seemed to be composed
entirely of this loam; when thrown in the water it desolves as readily as
loaf sugar and effervesses like marle. great appearance of quarts and
mineral salts, the latter appears both on the hills and bottoms, in the
bottoms of the gullies which make down from the hills it lies incrusting
the earth to the debth of 2 or 3 inches, and may with a fether be swept up
and collected in large quantities, I preserved several specimines of this
salts. the quarts appears most commonly in the faces of the bluffs. no
coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. saw today some high hills on the
Stard. whose summits were covered with pine. Capt Clark went on shore and
visited them; he brought with him on his return som of the boughs of this
pine it is of the pitch kind but I think the leaves somewhat longer than
ours in Virginia. Capt C. also in his walk killed 2 Mule deer a beaver and
two buffaloe; these last he killed about 3 miles above where we encamped
this evening in the expectation that we would reach that place, but we
were unable to do so from the adverse winds and other occurrences, and he
came down and joined us about dark. there is a dwarf cedar growing among
the pine on the hills; it rises to the hight thre sometimes 4 feet, but
most generally spreads itself like a vine along the surface of the earth,
which it covers very closely, puting out roots from the underside of the
limbs; the leaf is finer and more delicate than the common red ceader,
it's fruit and smell are the same with the red ceader. the tops of these
hills which produce the pine and cedar is of a different soil from that
just described; it is a light coloured poor sterile sandy soil, the base
usually a yellow or white clay; it produces scarcely any grass, some
scattering tuffts of sedge constitutes the greater part of it's grass.
About 5 P.M. my attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a
distance towards us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress, I
ordered the perogues to put too, and waited untill he arrived; I now found
that it was Bratton the man with the soar hand whom I had permitted to
walk on shore, he arrived so much out of breath that it was several
minutes before he could tell what had happened; at length he informed me
that in the woody bottom on the Lard. side about 11/2 below us he had shot
a brown bear which immediately turned on him and pursued him a
considerable distance but he had wounded it so badly that it could not
overtake him; I immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest of
this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him about a mile by
the blood through very thick brush of rosbushes and the large leafed
willow; we finally found him concealed in some very thick brush and shot
him through the skull with two balls; we proceeded dress him as soon as
possible, we found him in good order; it was a monstrous beast, not quite
so large as that we killed a few days past but in all other rispects much
the same the hair is remarkably long fine and rich tho he appears
parshally to have discharged his winter coat; we now found that Bratton
had shot him through the center of the lungs, notwithstanding which he had
pursued him near half a mile and had returned more than double that
distance and with his tallons had prepared himself a bed in the earth of
about 2 feet deep and five long and was perfectly alive when we found him
which could not have been less than 2 hours after he received the wound;
these bear being so hard to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess
that I do not like the gentlemen and had reather fight two Indians than
one bear; there is no other chance to conquer them by a single shot but by
shooting them through the brains, and this becomes difficult in
consequence of two large muscles which cover the sides of the forehead and
the sharp projection of the center of the frontal bone, which is also of a
pretty good thickness. the flece and skin were as much as two men could
possibly carry. by the time we returned the sun had set and I determined
to remain here all night, and directed the cooks to render the bear's oil
and put it in the kegs which was done. there was about eight gallons of
it.
the wild Hysop grows here and in all the country through which we have
passed for many days past; tho from big Dry river to this place it has
been more abundant than below, and a smaller variety of it grows on the
hills, the leaves of which differ considerably being more deeply indented
near it's extremity. the buffaloe deer and Elk feed on this herb in the
winter season as they do also on the small willow of the sandbars. there
is another growth that begins now to make it's appearance in the bottom
lands and is becoming extreemly troublesome; it is a shrub which rises to
the hight of from two to four feet, much branched, the bark of the trunk
somewhat rough hard and of light grey colour; the wood is firm and stif,
the branches beset with a great number of long, shap, strong, wooddy
looking thorns; the leaf is about 3/4 or an inch long, and one 1/8 of an
inch wide, it is obtuse, absolutely entire, veinless fleshy and gibbose;
has no perceptable taste or smell, and no anamal appears to eat it. by way
of designating when I mention it hereafter I shall call it the fleshey
leafed thorn
[Clark, May 11, 1805]
May the 11th Satturday 1805. Wind hard fore part of last night the latter
part verry Cold a white frost this morning, the river riseing a little and
verry Crooked the high land is rugged and approaches nearer than below,
the hills and bluff exhibit more mineral quats & Salts than below, the
gullies in maney places are white, and their bottoms one, two & 3
Inches deep of this mineral, no appearance of either burnt pumice Stone or
Coal, the Countrey hilley on both Sides of a rich black earth, which
disolves This kind of Countrey Continues of the Same quallity for maney
miles on either Side, we observed Some hills which appeared to be
timbered, I walked to this timber and found it to pitch pine & Dwarf
Cedar, we observe in every derection Buffalow, Elk, Antelopes & Mule
deer inumerable and So jintle that we Could approach near them with great
ease, I killed 2 Mule Deer for the benifit of their Skins for the party,
and about the place I expected the party would get to Camp I killed 2 fat
Bulls for theire use, in my absence they had killed a fine fat Yellow bear
below which detained them and they did not reach the place I expected, but
had Camped on the Lard. Side about 2 miles below on my return to the party
I killed a fat Beaver the wind blew verry hard from the S. W. all the
after part of this day which retarded our progress verry much. river rose
2 In
[Lewis, May 12, 1805]
Sunday May 12th 1805. Set out at an early hour, the weather clear and
Calm; I walked on shore this morning for the benifit of exersize which I
much wanted, and also to examine the country and it's productions, in
these excurtions I most generally went alone armed with my rifle and
espontoon; thus equiped I feel myself more than an equal match for a brown
bear provided I get him in open woods or near the water, but feel myself a
little diffident with respect to an attack in the open plains, I have
therefore come to a resolution to act on the defencive only, should I meet
these gentlemen in the open country. I ascended the hills and had a view
of a rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North
side the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar, on
the South side the pine has not yet commenced tho there is some cedar on
the face of the hills and in the little ravines. the choke cherry also
grows here in the hollows and at the heads of the gullies; the choke
Cherry has been in blume since the ninth inst. this growth has freequently
made it's appearance on the Missouri from the neighbourhood of the
Baldpated Prarie, to this place in the form of it's leaf colour and
appearance of it's bark, and general figure of it's growth it resembles
much the Morillar cherry,1 tho much smaller not generally rising to a
greater hight than from 6 to 10 feet and ascociating in thick clusters or
clumps in their favorit situations which is usually the heads of small
ravines or along the sides of small brooks which flow from the hills. the
flowers which are small and white are supported by a common footstalk as
those of the common wild cherry are, the corolla consists of five oval
petals, five stamen and one pistillum, and of course of the Class and
order Pentandria Monogynia. it bears a fruit which much resembles the wild
cherry in form and colour tho larger and better flavoured; it's fruit
ripens about the begining of July and continues on the trees untill the
latter end of September — The Indians of the Missouri make great uce
of this cherry which they prepare for food in various ways, sometimes
eating when first plucked from the trees or in that state pounding them
mashing the seed boiling them with roots or meat, or with the prarie beans
and white-apple; again for their winter store they geather them and lay
them on skins to dry in the sun, and frequently pound them and make them
up in small roles or cakes and dry them in the sun; when thus dryed they
fold them in skins or put them in bags of parchment and keep them through
the winter either eating them in this state or boiling them as before
mentioned. the bear and many birds also feed on these burries. the wild
hysop sage, fleshey leaf thorn, and some other herbs also grow in the
plains and hills, particularly the arromatic herb on which the Antelope
and large hare feed. The soil has now changed it's texture considerably;
the base of the hills and river bottoms continue the same and are composed
of a rich black loam while the summits of the hills and about half their
hight downwards are of a light brown colour, poor sterile and intermixed
with a coarse white sand. about 12 OClock the wind veered about to the N.
W. and blew so hard that we were obliged to Ly by the ballance of the day.
we saw great quantities of game as usual. the bottom lands still becomeing
narrower.
About sunset it began to rain, and continued to fall a few drops at a time
untill midnight; the wind blew violently all night.
[Clark, May 12, 1805]
May 12th Sunday 1805. Set out at an early hour, the morning Clear and
Calm, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore this morning about 12 oClock the wind
becam Strong from the E. about half past one oClock the wind Shifted round
to the N. W. and blew verry hard all the latter part of the day, which
obliged us to Lay by — The Countrey is hilley & rugged and the
earth of a lightish brown and but indifferent, Some Small Cedar is
Scattered on the Sides of the hils & in the hollars, Some pine ridges
is also to be Seen on the North Side, we observe great quantites of game
as usual. I killed a beaver in the water, Saw Several Sitting on the bank
near the waters edge about Sunset it began to rain, and rained very
moderately only a fiew drops at a time for about half the night, wind
Continued violent all night
[Lewis, May 13, 1805]
Monday May 13th 1805. The wind continued to blow so violently this morning
that we did not think it prudent to set out. sent out some hunters. At 1
P.M. the wind abated, and altho the hunters had not all returned we set
out; the courant reather stronger than usual and the water continues to
become reather clearer, from both which I anticipate a change of Country
shortly. the country much the same as yesterday; but little timber in the
bottoms and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Stard. hills.
Capt C. who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a mule and a
Common deer, the party killed several deer and some Elk principally for
the benefit of their skins which are necessary to them for cloathing, the
Elk skins I now begin to reserve for making the leather boat at the falls.
the hunters joined us this evening; Gibson had wounded a very large brown
bear but it was too late in the evening to pursue him.
[Clark, May 13, 1805]
13th of May Monday 1805 The wind Continued to blow hard untill one oClock
P M. to day at which time it fell a little and we Set out and proceeded on
verry well about 9 miles and Camped on the Lard Side. the countrey much
the Same appearance as yesterday but little timber in the bottoms; Some
Pine in places on the Stard. Hills. I killed two deer this evening one a
mule deer & the other a common Deer, the party killed Several this
morning all for the use of their Skins which are now good, one man Gibson
wounded a verry large brown bear, too late this evening to prosue him- We
passed two Creeks in a bend to the Lard Side neither them had any water,
are somewhat wider; passed some high black bluffs. saw immence herds of
buffaloe today also Elk deer wolves and Antelopes. passed three large
creeks one on the Stard. and two others on the Lard. side, neither of
which had any runing water. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed a very
fine buffaloe cow. I felt an inclination to eat some veal and walked on
shore and killed a very fine buffaloe calf and a large woolf, much the
whitest I had seen, it was quite as white as the wool of the common sheep.
one of the party wounded a brown bear very badly, but being alone did not
think proper to pursue him. In the evening the men in two of the rear
canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in the open grounds about 300
paces from the river, and six of them went out to attack him, all good
hunters; they took the advantage of a small eminence which concealed them
and got within 40 paces of him unperceived, two of them reserved their
fires as had been previously conscerted, the four others fired nearly at
the same time and put each his bullet through him, two of the balls passed
through the bulk of both lobes of his lungs, in an instant this monster
ran at them with open mouth, the two who had reserved their fires
discharged their pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them
struck him, one only slightly and the other fortunately broke his
shoulder, this however only retarded his motion for a moment only, the men
unable to reload their guns took to flight, the bear pursued and had very
nearly overtaken them before they reached the river; two of the party
betook themselves to a canoe and the others seperated an concealed
themselves among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his
piece at him as they had an opportunity they struck him several times
again but the guns served only to direct the bear to them, in this manner
he pursued two of them seperately so close that they were obliged to throw
aside their guns and pouches and throw themselves into the river altho the
bank was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this anamal that
he plunged into the river only a few feet behind the second man he had
compelled take refuge in the water, when one of those who still remained
on shore shot him through the head and finally killed him; they then took
him on shore and butched him when they found eight balls had passed
through him in different directions; the bear being old the flesh was
indifferent, they therefore only took the skin and fleece, the latter made
us several gallons of oil; it was after the sun had set before these men
come up with us, where we had been halted by an occurrence, which I have
now to recappitulate, and which altho happily passed without ruinous
injury, I cannot recollect but with the utmost trepidation and horror;
this is the upseting and narrow escape of the white perogue It happened
unfortunately for us this evening that Charbono was at the helm of this
Perogue, in stead of Drewyer, who had previously steered her; Charbono
cannot swim and is perhaps the most timid waterman in the world; perhaps
it was equally unluckey that Capt. C. and myself were both on shore at
that moment, a circumstance which rarely happened; and tho we were on the
shore opposite to the perogue, were too far distant to be heard or to do
more than remain spectators of her fate; in this perogue ____ were
embarked, our papers, Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our
merchandize and in short almost every article indispensibly necessary to
further the views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which we are
now launched to the distance of 2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the
Perogue was under sail when a sudon squawl of wind struck her obliquely,
and turned her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in stead of puting
her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind was so violent that
it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand of the man who was
attending it, and instantly upset the perogue and would have turned her
completely topsaturva, had it not have been from the resistance mad by the
oarning against the water; in this situation Capt. C and myself both fired
our guns to attract the attention if possible of the crew and ordered the
halyards to be cut and the sail hawled in, but they did not hear us; such
was their confusion and consternation at this moment, that they suffered
the perogue to lye on her side for half a minute before they took the sail
in, the perogue then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the
gunwals; Charbono still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet
recollected the rudder, nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman,
Cruzat, bring him to his recollection untill he threatend to shoot him
instantly if he did not take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves
by this time were runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and good
conduct of Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men to throw out the
water with some kettles that fortunately were convenient, while himself
and two others rowed her ashore, where she arrived scarcely above the
water; we now took every article out of her and lay them to drane as well
as we could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her; there
were two other men beside Charbono on board who could not swim, and who of
course must also have perished had the perogue gone to the bottom. while
the perogue lay on her side, finding I could not be heard, I for a moment
forgot my own situation, and involluntarily droped my gun, threw aside my
shot pouch and was in the act of unbuttoning my coat, before I recollected
the folly of the attempt I was about to make, which was to throw myself
into the river and indevour to swim to the perogue; the perogue was three
hundred yards distant the waves so high that a perogue could scarcely live
in any situation, the water excessively could, and the stream rappid; had
I undertaken this project therefore, there was a hundred to one but what I
should have paid the forfit of my life for the madness of my project, but
this had the perogue been lost, I should have valued but little. — After
having all matters arranged for the evening as well as the nature of
circumstances would permit, we thought it a proper occasion to console
ourselves and cheer the sperits of our men and accordingly took a drink of
grog and gave each man a gill of sperits.
[Clark, May 14, 1805]
14th of May Tuesday 1805 A verry Clear Cold morning a white frost &
some fog on the river the Thermomtr Stood at 32 above 0, wind from the S.
W. we proceeded on verry well untill about 6 oClock a Squawl of wind
Struck our Sale broad Side and turned the perogue nearly over, and in this
Situation the Perogue remained untill the Sale was Cut down in which time
She nearly filed with water — the articles which floated out was
nearly all caught by the Squar who was in the rear. This accident had like
to have cost us deerly; for in this perogue were embarked our papers,
Instruments, books, medicine, a great proportion of our merchandize, and
in short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the
views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which, we are now
launched to the distance of 2,200 miles. it happened unfortunately that
Capt. Lewis and myself were both on shore at the time of this occurrence,
a circumstance which seldom took place; and tho we were on the shore
opposit to the perogue were too far distant to be heard or do more than
remain spectators of her fate; we discharged our guns with the hope of
attracting the attention of the crew and ordered the sail to be taken in
but such was their consternation and confusion at the instant that they
did not hear us. when however they at length took in the sail and the
perogue wrighted; the bowsman Cruzatte by repeated threats so far brought
Charbono the Sternman to his recollection that he did his duty while two
hands bailed the perogue and Cruzatte and two others rowed her on shore
were she arrived scarcely above the water. we owe the preservation of the
perogue to the resolution and fortitude of Cruzatte
The Countrey like that of yesterday, passed a Small Island and the
enterence of 3 large Creeks, one on the Stard. & the other 2 on the
Lard Side, neither of them had any running water at this time — Six
good hunters of the party fired at a Brown or Yellow Bear Several times
before they killed him, & indeed he had like to have defeated the
whole party, he pursued them Seperately as they fired on him, and was near
Catching Several of them one he pursued into the river, this bear was
large & fat would way about 500 wt; I killed a Buffalow, & Capt.
Lewis a Calf & a wolf this evening.
[Lewis, May 15, 1805]
Wednesday May 15th as soon as a slight shower of rain passed over this
morning, we spread the articles to dry which had got wet yesterday in the
white perogue; tho the day proved so cloudy and damp that they received
but little benifit from the sun or air; we were enabled to put them in
such a state as to prevent their sustaining further injury. our hunters
killed several deer, and saw three bear one of which they wounded.
[Clark, May 15, 1805]
May 15th Wednesday 1805 Our medisons, Instruments, merchandize, Clothes,
provisions &c. &c. which was nearly all wet we had put out to air
and dry. the day being Cloudy & rainey those articles dried but little
to day — our hunters killed Several deer &c. and Saw three Bear
one of which they wounded &c.
We see Buffalow on the banks dead, others floating down dead, and others
mired every day, those buffalow either drown in Swiming the river or brake
thro the ice
[Lewis, May 16, 1805]
Thursday May 16th The morning was fair and the day proved favorable to our
operations; by 4 oClock in the evening our Instruments, Medicine,
merchandize provision &c, were perfectly dryed, repacked and put on
board the perogue. the loss we sustained was not so great as we had at
first apprehended; our medicine sustained the greatest injury, several
articles of which were intirely spoiled, and many others considerably
injured; the ballance of our losses consisted of some gardin seeds, a
small quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell
overboard and sunk, the Indian woman to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and
resolution, with any person onboard at the time of the accedent, caught
and preserved most of the light articles which were washed overboard all
matters being now arranged for our departure we lost no time in seting
out; proceeced on tolerably well about seven miles and encamped on the
Stard. side. in the early part of the day two of our men fired on a
panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded it; they informed us
that it was very large, had just killed a deer partly devoured it, and in
the act of concealing the ballance as they discovered him. we caught two
Antelopes at our encampment in attempting to swim the river; these anamals
are but lean as yet, and of course not very pleasant food. I walked on
shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow and calf, we found the calf
most excellent veal. the country on either side of the river is broken and
hills much higher than usual, the bottoms now become narrow and the timber
more scant; some scattering pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the
hills. this morning a white bear toar Labuiche's coat which he had left
in the plains.
[Clark, May 16, 1805]
May 16th Thursday 1805 a fair morning our articles all out to Dry at 4
oClock we had every thing that was Saved dry and on bord, our loss is Some
medison, Powder, Seeds, & Several articles which Sunk, and maney
Spoiled had a medn. altitude which gave for Latd. ° ' " N. — two of
our men fired at a pant hr a little below our Camp, this animale they say
was large, had Caught a Deer & eate it half & buried the ballance.
a fiew antilope Swam the river near our Camp two of them were Cought by
the party in the river. at half past 4 oClock we Set out and proceeded on
verry well ____ miles and incamped on the Std. Side the Countrey as before
hilley & broken verry Small proprotion of timber in the points, Some
little pine & Ceader in the hills
Buffalow & Deer is yet plenty on the river in the small timbered
bottoms Capt Lewis walked out on the Std. Side and killed a Cow & Calf
the calf was verry fine their bases. it is somewhat singular that the
lower part of these hills appear to be formed of a dark rich loam while
the upper region about 150 feet is formed of a whiteish brown sand, so
hard in many parts as to resemble stone; but little rock or stone of any
kind to be seen in these hills. the river is much narrower than usual, the
bed from 200 to 300 yards only and possessing a much larger proportion of
gravel than usual. a few scattering cottonwood trees are the only timber
near the river; the sandbars, and with them the willow points have almost
entirely disappeared. greater appearance than usual of the saline
incrustations of the banks and river hills. we passed two creeks the one
on Stard. side, and the other just below our camp on the Lard. side; each
of these creeks afford a small quantity of runing water, of a brackish
tast. the great number of large beds of streams perfectly dry which we
daily pass indicate a country but badly watered, which I fear is the case
with the country through which we have been passing for the last fifteen
or twenty days. Capt Clark walked on shore this evening and killed an Elk;
buffaloe are not so abundant as they were some days past. the party with
me killed a female brown bear, she was but meagre, and appeared to have
suckled young very recently. Capt. Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by
a rattlesnake in the course of his walk, the party killed one this evening
at our encampment, which he informed me was similar to that he had seen;
this snake is smaller than those common to the middle Atlantic States,
being about 2 feet 6 inches long; it is of a yellowish brown colour on the
back and sides, variagated with one row of oval spots of a dark brown
colour lying transversely over the back from the neck to the tail, and two
other rows of small circular spots of the same colour which garnis the
sides along the edge of the scuta. it's bely contains 176 scuta on the
belly and 17 on the tale. Capt Clark informed me that he saw some coal
which had been brought down by the water of the last creek we passed; this
creek also throws out considerable quantities of Driftwood, though there
is no timber on it which can be perceived from the Missouri; we called
this stream rattlesnake creek. Capt Clark saw an Indian fortifyed camp
this evening, which appeared to have been recently occupyed, from which we
concluded it was probable that it had been formed by a war party of the
Menetares who left their vilage in March last with a view to attack the
blackfoot Indians in consequence of their having killed some of their
principal warriors the previous autumn. we were roused late at night by
the Sergt. of the guard, and warned of the danger we were in from a large
tree that had taken fire and which leant immediately over our lodge. we
had the loge removed, and a few minutes after a large proportion of the
top of the tree fell on the place the lodge had stood; had we been a few
minutes later we should have been crushed to attoms. the wind blew so
hard, that notwithstanding the lodge was fifty paces distant from the fire
it sustained considerable injury from the burning coals which were thrown
on it; the party were much harrassed also by this fire which communicated
to a collection of fallen timber, and could not be extinguished.
[Clark, May 17, 1805]
May 17th Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N W. mercury at 60° a 0.
river falling a little. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on verry
well by the assistance of the Toe rope principally, the Countrey verry
rugged & hills high and the river washing the base on each Side, Great
appearance of the Salt Substance. a fiew Cotton trees is the only timber
which is Scattered in the bottoms & the hills contain a fiew Pine
& Cedar, which is Scattered. river much narrower than below from 2 to
300 yards wide, the bottoms muddey & hills rich earth except near
their topes — We passed 2 large Creeks to day one on the Starbd Side
and the other just below our camp on the Lard. Side each of those creeks
has a little running water near their mouthes which has a brackish taste,
I was nearly treading on a Small fierce rattle Snake different from any I
had ever Seen &c. one man the party killed another of the Same kind. I
walked on Shore after dinner & killed an Elk — the party in my
absence Killed a female Brown or yellow Bear which was meagre the
appearances of the Hills & Countrey is as before mentioned except a
greater appearance of the white appearance of Salts or tarter and Some
Coal which has been thrown out by the floods in the last Creek- Buffalow
& Deer is not plenty to day, Elk is yet to be Seen in abundance we
Camped in the upper part of a Small timbered bottom on the Lard. Side in
which I Saw a fortified Indian Camp, which I Suppose is one of the Camps
of a Mi ne tar re war party of about 15 men, that Set out from their
village in March last to war against the Blackfoot Indians.
we were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a tree
which had Cought and leaned over our Lodge, we had the lodge moved Soon
after the Dry limbs & top of the tree fell in the place the Lodge
Stood, the wind blew hard and the dry wood Cought & fire flew in every
direction, burnt our Lodge verry much from the Coals which fell on it
altho at Some distance in the plain, the whole party was much disturbed by
this fire which could not be extinguished &c
[Lewis, May 18, 1805]
Saturday May 18th 1805. The wind blew hard this morning from the West. we
were enabled to employ our toe line the greater part of the day and
therefore proceeded on tolerably well. there are now but few sandbars, the
river is narrow and current gentle. the timber consists of a few
cottonwood trees along the verge of the river; the willow has in a great
measure disappeared. in the latter part of the day the hills widened, the
bottoms became larger, and contained more timber. we passed a creek on the
Stard. side about three oclock, which afforded no water; came too and
encamped on the Lard. side opposite to the lower point of a small Island,
two miles short of the extremity of the last course of this day. Capt
Clark in the course of his walk this evening killed four deer, two of
which were the black tailed or mule deer; the skins are now good, they
have not yet produced their young. — we saw a number of buffaloe, Elk,
deer and Antelopes. — the saline substance frequently mentioned
continues to appear as usual.
[Clark, May 18, 1805]
May 18th Satturday 1805 A windey morning wind from the West we proceeded
on verry well with the assistance of the Toe Coard, river narrow but flew
Sand bars, & current jentle, but a few Cotton Trees Contained in the
bottoms willow is not common on the bears as usial Some little on the
Sides of the river is yet to be Seen, the after part of the day was Cloudy
& at about 12 oClock it began to rain and continued moderately for
about 11/2 hours, not Sufficient to wet a man thro his clothes; this is
the first rain Since we Set out this Spring The hills widen and the
bottoms Contain more timber than for Several days past, we passed a Wisers
Creek on the Std. Side about 3 oClock and Camped on the Lard Side opposit
the lower point of a handsom little Island near the middle of the river. I
walked on Shore and killed four Deer, 2 common & 2 mule deer, one of
which had 3 fauns, 2 others had 2 each, those deer are fat, & their
Skins tolerable good, which are now in demand with us for clothes Such as
Legins & Mockersons, I Saw great numbers of Buffalows & Elk; Some
of the party Shoot & Catch beaver every day & night
[Lewis, May 19, 1805]
Sunday May 19th 1805. The last night was disagreeably could; we were
unable to set out untill 8 oclock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fogg,
which obscured the river in such a manner that we could not see our way;
this is the first we have experienced in any thing like so great a degree;
there was also a fall of due last evening, which is the second we have
experienced since we have entered this extensive open country. at eight we
set out and proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord principally, the
hills are high and the country similar to that of yesterday. Capt Clark
walked on shore with two of the hunters and killed a brown bear;
notwithstanding that it was shot through the heart it ran at it's usual
pace near a quarter of a mile before it fell. one of the party wounded a
beaver, and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him
through the hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great difficulty that
I could stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove fatal to him. on Capt.
Clark's return he informed me that he had from the top of one of the
adjacent hights discovered the entrance of a large stream which discharged
itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side distant 6 or seven miles; from
the same place he also saw a range of Mountains, bearing W. distant 40 or
50 miles; they appeared to proceed in a S. S. W. direction; the N. N. E.
extremity of these mountains appeared abrupt.
This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing more sawyers
than we have seen in the same space since we left the entrance of the
river Platte. Capt. C. in the course of his walk killed three deer and a
beaver, I also walked on shore this evening a few miles and killed an Elk,
a buck, and a beaver. the party killed and caught 4 other beaver & 3
deer.
The men complain much of sore eyes and imposthumes.
[Clark, May 19, 1805]
May 19th Sunday 1805 a verry cold night, the murckery Stood at 38 at 8
oClock this morning, a heavy dew which is the 2d I have Seen this Spring.
The fog (which was the first) was So thick this morning that we could not
Set out untill the Sun was about 2 hours up, at which time a Small breeze
Sprung up from the E. which Cleared off the fog & we proceeded on by
means of the Cord The hills are high & rugged the Countrey as
yesterday — I walked on Shore with two men we killed a white or grey
bear; not withstanding that it was Shot through the heart it ran at it's
usial pace near a quarter of a mile before it fell. Capt Lewis's dog was
badly bitten by a wounded beaver and was near bleading to death-. after
killing the Bear I continued my walk alone, & killed 3 Deer & a
Beaver; finding that the Perogues were below I assended the highest hill I
could See, from the top of which I Saw the mouth of M. Shell R & the
meanderings of the Missouri for a long distance. I also Saw a high
mountain in a westerley direction, bearing S. S W. about 40 or 50 miles
distant, in the evening the river was verry Crooked and much more rapid
& Containing more Sawyers than any which we have passed above the
River Platte Capt Lewis walked on Shore this after noon & killed an
Elk, Buck & a Beaver, I kiled three Deer at dinner, the hunters killed
three other Deer to day Several beaver also killed. We Camped on the Stard
Side in a bottom of Small Cotton wood
[Lewis, May 20, 1805]
Monday May 20th 1805 Set out at an early hour as usual, the banks being
favourable and water strong we employed the toe rope principally; river
narrow and croked; country much as that of yesterday; immence number of
the prickley pears in the plains and on the hills. At the distance of 21/4
miles passed the entrance of a large Creek, affording but little water;
this stream we named Blowing Fly Creek, from the immence quantities of
those insects found in this neighbourhood, they infest our meat while
roasting or boiling, and we are obliged to brush them off our provision as
we eat. At 11 A.M. we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold river
which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side; this stream
we take to be that called by the Minnetares the ____ or Muscleshell River;
if it be the same, of which I entertain but little doubt, it takes it's
rise, by their information in the 1st Chain of the Rocky Mountains at no
great distance from the Yellow stone river, from whence in it's course to
this place it passes through a high and broken country pretty well
timbered, particularly on it's borders, and intersperced with handsome
fertile plains and medows. but from the circumstance of the same Indians
informing us that we should find a well timbered country in the
neighbourhood of it's mouth, I am induced to beleive that the timbered
country of which they speak is similar to that we have passed for a day or
two, or that in our view above, which consists of nothing more than a few
scattering small scrubby pine and dwarf cedar on the summits of some of
the highest hills nine tenths of the country being wholy destitute of
timber of any kind, covered with a short grass, arromatic herbs and the
prickley pear; the river bottom however, so far as we have explored it or
8 m. are well stocked with Cottonwood timber of tollerable size, &
lands of excellent quality. We halted at thentrance of the river on the
point formed by it's junction with the Missouri determining to spend the
day, make the necessary observations and send out some hunters to explore
the country. The Muscle Shell river falls into the Missouri 2270 miles
above it's mouth, and is 110 yards in width, it affords much more water
than streams of it's width generally do below, it's courant is by no means
rappid, and from appearances it might be navigated with canoes a
considerable distance; it's bed is coarse sand and gravel principally with
an occasion mixture of black mud; it's banks abbrupt and about 12 feet
high yet never appear to overflow; the waters of this river is of a
greenish yellow cast, much more transparent than the Missouri, which last
is also much more transparent than below but still retains it's whiteish
hue and a proportion of it's sedement. the Missouri opposite to this point
is deep, gentle in it's courant, and 222 yards in width. The hunters
returned this evening and informed us that the country continued much the
same in appearance as that we saw where we were or broken, and that about
five miles abe the mouth of shell river a handsome river of about fifty
yards in width discharged itself into the shell river on the Stard. or
upper side; this stream we called Sah-ca-gar me-ah or bird woman's River,
after our interpreter the Snake woman. Shields also found a bould spring
or fountain issuing from the foot of the Lard. hills about 4 miles up the
Missouri; a fountain in this plain country is a great novelty; I have not
seen a bould fountain of pure water except one since I left the Mandans;
there a number of small ones but all without exception are impregnated
with the salts which abound in this country, and with which I believe the
Missoury itself considerably impregnated but to us in the habit of useing
it not perceptible; the exception I make is a very fine fountain under the
bluffs on the Lard. side of the Missouri and at a distance from the river
about five miles below the entrance of the yellowstone River. The sands of
the Missouri are not so abundant as they have been for some time past,
being confined to the points only; the bed of the river principally mud
and still too deep to use the seting pole. Capt. Clark walked out today
and killed two deer and an Elk, the hunters killed 4 deer and elk and a
buffaloe. I saw two large Owls with remarkable long feathers on the sides
of the head which resembled ears; I take them to be the large hooting owl
tho they are somewhat larger and their colours brighter than those common
to the J States.
[Clark, May 20, 1805]
May 20th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N E. river falling a
little We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on verry well as usial by the
assistance of the Cord passed Some verry Swift water, river narrow and
Crooked, at 11 oClock arrived at the mouth of Shell river on the Lard Side
and formed a Camp for the present. haveing passed a large Creek about 4
miles below on the Ld Side which we call Blowing fly Creek from the emence
quantites of those insects which geather on our meat in Such numbers that
we are oblige to brush them off what we eate.
muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles up Contains a greater
perportion of water than Rivers of its Size below, I measured it and find
it to be 110 yards wide, the water of a Greenish yellow Colour, and appers
to be navagable for Small Craft, The Minetarras inform us that this river
heads in the 1st of the rockey Mountains & passes through a broken
Countrey. its head at no great distance from the Yellow Stone River The
Countrey about this river as described yesterday we took the Meredian
altitude 59° 50' 0" back observation and found the Latd. to be 47° 0' 24"
The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a Smoth
Current the Missouri water is not So muddey as below, but retains nearly
its usial Cholour, and the Sands principally Confined to the points I
killed two Deer & an Elk, the hunters killed an Elk & Several deer
mearly for their Skins to make Leagins, — Sent men out in every
derection, the Countrey generally verry broken Some leavel plains up the
Shell river The bottoms of the Shell river is well timbered as also a
Small river which falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles above
its mouth. The hills on the Lard. Contain Scattering Pine & Cedar.
[Lewis, May 21, 1805]
Tuesday May 21st 1805 A delightfull morning set out at an early hour and
proceeded on very well, imployed the chord principally; the shores are
abbrupt and bould and composed of a black and yellow clay; see no
extensive collection of pure sand, the bars are composed black mud and a
small poportion of fine sand; the courant still pretty strong. the
Missouri in it's course downward makes a suddon and extensive bend to
receive the Muscle shell river, the point of country thus formed tho high
is still much lower than that surrounding it, thus forming a valley of
wavey country which extends itself for a great distance in a Northerly
direction; the soil is fertile, produces a fine turf of low grass and some
herbs, also immence quantities of the Prickley pear, without a stick of
timber of any discription. the country on the South side is high broken
and crowned with some scrubby pines and dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine
is much longer than the common pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone is
also longer and slimer, and the imbrications wider and thicker, and the
whole frequently covered with rosin. Mineral appearances as usual. the
growse or praire hen are now less abundant on the river than they were
below; perhaps they betake themselves to the open plains at a distance
from the river at this season.
The wind which was moderate all the fore part of the day continued to
encrease in the evening, and about dark veered about to N. W. and blew a
storm all night, in short we found ourselves so invelloped with clouds of
dust and sand that we could neither cook, eat, nor sleep; and were finally
compelled to remove our lodge about eight oClock at night to the foot of
an adjacent hill where we were covered in some measure from the wind by
the hills. several loose articles blown over board and lost. our first
station was on a bar on Stard. opposite the lower point of a small Island,
which we now called windy Island. the bends of the river are short and
suddon, the points covered with some cottonwood, larger willow, or
broadleafed willow with an abundance of the wild rose and some small
honeysuckle bushes constitute the undergrowth, the redwood is also found
in small quantities. Capt. C walked on shore today and killed 2 Elk; the
party killed several deer and a buffaloe Cow.
[Clark, May 21, 1805]
May 21st Tuesday 1805. a butifull morning, wind from the West, river
falling a little, we Set out at an early hour and proceed on in the usial
way by the assistance of the Coard principally, but little use of the
Oares & less with the poles as the bottoms are muddey, we Se no great
bodies of pure Sand the bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine
Sand. I walked on Shore Stard. Side the river makes a great bend to the
South to receve Shell River, the boint for many miles out in a Northerley
direction is a rich uneaven valley Contain Some Short grass, and Prickley
pears without timber The Countrey on the South Side of the Missouri is
high, Soil and mineral appearance as usial, more Scattering pine &
Cedar on the hills, the wind which blew moderatly all the forepart of the
day increassd and about Dark Shifted to the N W. and Stormed all night,
Several loose articles were blown over board, our lodge & Camp which
was on a Sand bar on the Std. Side & opposite to the lower point of an
Island we were obliged to move under the hills, the dust & Sand blew
in clouds. The bends of the river are Short and points Covered with Cotton
wood under groth wild rose bushes I killed 2 Elk to day Several Deer
Killd. & a Buffalow Cow.
[Lewis, May 22, 1805]
Wednesday May 22cd 1805. The wind blew so violently this morning that we
did not think it prudent to set out untill it had in some measure abated;
this did not happen untill 10 A.M. when we proceeded principally by the
toe lines the bottoms somewhat wider than usual, the lands fertile or
apparently so tho the short grass and the scantey proportion of it on the
hills would indicate no great fertility. passed Windy Island on Lard. at 1
M. 51/2 miles above passed a large Island in a bend on Stard. side, and
three miles further on the same side passed the entrance of grows Creek 20
yds wide, affords but little water. this creek we named from seeing a
number of the pointed tail praire hen near it's mouth, these are the fist
we have seen in such numbers for some days. I walked on shore this morning
the country is not so broken as yesterday tho still high and roling or
wavy; the hills on Lard. side possess more pine than usual; some also on
the Stard. hills. Salts and other mineral appearances as usual. the river
continues about the same width or from 200 to 250 yds. wide, fewer
sandbars and the courant more gentle and regular; game not so abundant as
below the Muscle Shell river. I killed a deer in the course of my walk
today. Capt. C. also walked out this evening and took a view of the
country from a conspicuous point and found it the same as has been
discribed. we have caught but few fish since we left the Mandans, they do
not bite freely, what we took were the white cat of 2 to 5 lbs. I presume
that fish are scarce in this part of the river. We encamped earlyer this
evening than usual in order render the oil of a bear which we killed. I do
not believe that the Black bear common to the lower part of this river and
the Atlantic States, exists in this quarter; we have neither seen one of
them nor their tracks which would be easily distinguished by it's
shortness of tallons when compared with the brown grizly or white bear. I
believe that it is the same species or family of bears which assumes all
those colours at different ages and seasons of the year.
[Clark, May 22, 1805]
May 22nd Wednesday 1805 The wind Continued to blow So violently hard we
did not think it prudent to Set out untill it luled a little, about 10
oClock we Set out the morning Cold, passed a Small Island in the bend to
the Lard Side, & proceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Island in a
bend to the Stard Side, and a Creek a Short distance above on the Stard
Side 20 yds. w Capt Lewis walked out before dinner & Killed a Deer, I
walked out after dinner and assended & but a few miles to view the
Countrey, which I found roleing & of a verry rich Stickey Soil
produceing but little vegitation of any kind except the prickley-piar, but
little grass & that verry low. a great deal of Scattering Pine on the
Lard Side & Some fur on the Stard. Sd. The mineral productions as
described in the proceeding days, game not So abundant as below, the river
Continue about the Same width, fewer Sand bars & current more regular,
river falls about an inch a day We camped on the Stard. Side, earlier than
we intend on account of Saveing the oil of a bear which the party killed
late this afternoon.
Maney of the Creeks which appear to have no water near ther mouths have
Streams of running water higher up which rise & waste in the Sand or
gravel. the water of those Creeks are So much impregnated with the Salt
Substance that it cannot be Drank with pleasure.
[Lewis, May 23, 1805]
Thursday May 23rd 1805. Set out early this morning, the frost was severe
last night, the ice appeared along the edge of the water, water also
freized on the oars. at the distance of one mile passed the entrance of a
creek 15 yds. wide on Stard. side, this we call Teapot Creek, it affords
no water at it's mouth but has runing water at some small distance above,
this I beleive to be the case with many of those creekes which we have
passed since we entered this hilley country, the water is absorbed by the
earth near the river and of course appear dry; they afford but little
water at any rate, and that is so strongly impregnated with these salts
that it is unfit for uce; all the wild anamals appear fond of this water;
I have tryed it by way of experiment & find it moderately pergative,
but painfull to the intestens in it's opperation. this creek runs directly
towards some low mountains which lye N. W. of it and appear to be about 30
mes. distant, perhaps it heads in them. This range of mountains appear to
be about 70 miles long runing from E to W. having their Eastern extremity
about 30 mes. distant in a northwardly direction from pot Island. — also
passed two small creeks on Lard. and two others on Stard. all
inconsiderable and dry at their entrances. just above the entrance of
Teapot Creek on the stard. there is a large assemblage of the burrows of
the Burrowing Squirrel they generally seelect a south or a south Easterly
exposure for their residence, and never visit the brooks or river for
water; I am astonished how this anamal exists as it dose without water,
particularly in a country like this where there is scarcely any rain
during Yi of the year and more rarely any due; yet we have sometimes found
their villages at the distance of five or six miles from any water, and
they are never found out of the limits of the ground which their burrows
occupy; in the Autumn when the hard frosts commence they close their
burrows and do not venture out again untill spring, indeed some of them
appear to be yet in winter quarters. passed 3 Islands the two first
covered with tall cottonwood timber and the last with willows only. river
more rappid, & the country much the same as yesterday. some spruce
pine of small size appears among the pitch pine, and reather more rock
than usual on the face of the hills. The musquetoes troublesome this
evening, a circumstance I did not expect from the temperature of the
morning. The Gees begin to lose the feathers of their wings and are unable
to fly. Capt Clark walked on shore and killed 4 deer and an Elk. We killed
a large fat brown bear which took the water after being wounded and was
carried under some driftwood where he sunk and we were unable to get him.
Saw but few buffaloe today, but a great number of Elk, deer, some
antelopes and 5 bear. The wild rose which is now in blume are very
abundant, they appear to differ but little from those common to the
Atlantic States, the leaves of the bushes and the bush itself appear to be
of somewhat smaller size.
[Clark, May 23, 1805]
May 23rd Thursday 1805 a Severe frost last night, the Thrmotr. Stood at
the freesing point this morning i e 32 a 0. wind S W. the water freeses on
the oars. Ice on the edge of the river we Set out at an early hour and
passed the mouth a Creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a
mountain N W of its mouth 30 or _____ miles, the Countrey on each Side is
as passed yesterday passed 2 Small Creeks on the Stard & 2 on the
Lard. Side to day. a mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long
bearing E. & W is about 25 miles distant from this river on the Stard
Side Notherley of Pot Island I walked on Shore and killed 4 deer & an
Elk, & a beaver in the evening we killed a large fat Bear, which we
unfortunately lost in the river, after being Shot took the water & was
Carried under a drift passed in course of this day three Islands, two of
them Covered with tall timber & a 3rd with willows
The after part of this day was worm & the Misquitors troublesome. Saw
but five Buffalow a number of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2
Antilopes to day. the river beginning to rise, and Current more rapid than
yesterday, in maney places I saw Spruces on the hills Sides Stard. this
evening.
[Lewis, May 24, 1805]
Friday May 24th 1805.
The water standing in the vessels freized during the night 1/8 of an inch
thick, ice also appears along the verge of the river. the folage of some
of the cottonwood trees have been entirely distroyed by the frost and are
again puting forth other buds. the high country in which we are at present
and have been passing for some days I take to be a continuation of what
the Indians as well as the French Engages call the Black hills. This tract
of country so called consists of a collection of high broken and irregular
hills and short chain of mountains sometimes 120 miles in width and again
becomeing much narrower, but always much higher than the country on either
side; they commence about the head of the Kanzas river and to the West of
that river near the Arkansas, from whence they take their course a little
to the W. of N. W. approaching the rockey Mountains obliquely, passing the
river platte above the forks and intercepting the Yellowstone river near
the big bend and passing the Missouri at this place and probably
continuing to swell the country as far North as the Saskashawan river tho
they are lower here than they are discribed to the Sth. and may therefore
probably terminate before they reach the Suskashawan. the black hills in
their course nothwardly appear to approach more nearly to the Rocky
Mountains.
We set out at an early hour this morning and proceed on principally by the
chord untill about 9 A.M. when a fine breeze sprung up from the S. E. and
enabled us though the ballance of the day to employ our sails to
advantage; we proceed at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant of
the river was very strong. we passed two large and four small Islands;
also several streams on either side; the first of these is a large Creek
or small river which disinboged on the Stard. side about 11/2 miles above
our encampment of last evening, it is 30 yards wide and contains some
water. the bed is gravley and intermixed with some stone, it takes its
rise in the mountains which are situated in a Northwardly direction from
its entrance, distant about 30 miles. the air is so pure in this open
country that mountains and other elivated objects appear much nearer than
they really are; these mountains do not appear to be further than 15 m. we
sent a man up this creek to explore the country he returned late in the
evening and informed that he had proceeded ten miles directly towards
these mountains and that he did not think himself by any mean half way
these mountains are rockey and covered with some scattering pine. This
stream we call North Mountain creek. the next stream in order is a creek
which falls in on Lard. 21/2 miles higher; this is 15 yds. wide no water;
a large village of the burrowing or barking squirrels on the Stard. side
opposite it's entrance, hence the name Little dog Ck. that being the name
by which the French Engages call this anamal. at three miles and at 10 ms.
from hence still ascending 2 Small creek fall in on the Stard. side, no
water. 51/2 miles higher a small river falls in on Lard. side this we
called South Mountain creek as from it's direction it appeared to take
it's rise in a range of Mountains lying in a S. Westerly direction from
it's entrance distant 50 or 60 m.; this creek is 40 yards wide and
discharges a handsome stream of water. it's bed is rockey with gravel and
sand, the banks high and country broken it's bottom narrow and no timber.
The country high and broken, a considerable portion of black rock and
brown sandy rock appear in the faces of the hills; the tops of the hills
covered with scattering pine spruce and dwarf cedar; the soil poor and
sterile, sandy near the tops of the hills, the whole producing but little
grass; the narrow bottoms of the Missouri producing little else but Hysop
or southern wood and the pulpy leafed thorn. Capt. Clark walked on shore
this evening and killed a buffaloe cow, we left 2 Canoes and six men to
dress the Cow and bring on the meat, they did not overtake us this
evening. game is becoming more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we
have seen but few for several days the beaver appears to keep pace with
the timber as it declines in quantity they also become more scarce.
[Clark, May 24, 1805]
May 24th Friday 1805 a Cold night the water in the Small vestles frosed
1/8 of an inch thick, and the thermometer Stood this morning at the
freesing point. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on, at 9 oClock
we had a Breeze from the S E which Continued all day. This Breeze afforded
us good Sailing, the river rising fast Current verry rapid. passed Several
Small Islands, two large & two Small Creeks, the 1st of those Creeks
or Small rivers 11/2 m. above our Camp is 30 yards wide and Contains water
and appears to take its rise in the North Mountns. which is Situated in a
northerley detection about 20 miles distant. 21/2 m. higher a Creek falls
in on the Lard. Side, opposit a large village of Barking Squirels. 3 miles
Still higher a Small Creek falls in on the Stard. 13 miles higher up a
Small river falls in on the Lard Side which is 40 yards wide and has
running water. This Stream appears to take its rise in the South Mountains
which is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or 40 miles distant. I
walked on the high countrey on the Stard. Side found it broken & Dry
Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf Cedar on the hill sides, I Sent one man 10
mile out he reports a Similarity of Countrey back I killed a fat buffalow
a Short distance below the place we dined 2 Canoes & 6 men we left to
get the meat did not join us this evening. we Camped on the Lard point.
the Cotton wood in this point is beginning to put out a Second bud, the
first being killed by the frost
[Lewis, May 25, 1805]
Saturday May 25th 1805. The Two canoes which we left behind yesterday to
bring on the meat did not arrive this morning untill 8 A M. at which time
we set out; the wind being against us we did not proceed with so much ease
or expedition as yesterday, we imployed the toe line principally which the
banks favored the uce off; the courant strong particularly arround the
points against which the courant happened to set, and at the entrances of
the little gullies from the hills, those rivulets having brought down
considerable quantities of stone and deposited it at their entrances
forming partial barriers to the water of the river to the distance of 40
or 50 feet from the shore, arround these the water run with great
violence, and compelled us in some instances to double our force in order
to get a perorogue or canoe by them. as we ascended the river today I saw
several gangs of the bighorned Anamals on the face of the steep bluffs and
clifts on the Stard. side and sent drewyer to kill one which he
accomplished; Capt. Clark and Bratton who were on shore each killed one of
these anamals this evening. The head and horns of the male which Drewyer
killed weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger than the male of the common
deer, the boddy reather thicker deeper and not so long in proportion to
it's hight as the common deer; the head and horns are remakably large
compared with the other part of the anamal; the whole form is much more
delicate than that of the common goat, and there is a greater disparity in
the size of the male and female than between those of either the deer or
goat. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a deep sea green and
small, the iris of a silvery colour much like the common sheep; the bone
above the eye is remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of
the upper lip are precisely in form like the sheep. there legs resemble
the sheep more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they
are more delicately formed, like the sheep they stand forward in the knee
and the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it joins the knee,
the hoof is black & large in proportion, is divided, very open and
roundly pointed at the toe, like the sheep; is much hollowed and sharp on
the under edge like the Scotch goat, has two small hoofs behind each foot
below the ankle as the goat sheep and deer have. the belley, inside of the
legs, and the extremity of the rump and butocks for about two inches
arround the but of the tale, are white, as is also the tale excet just at
it's extremity on the upper side which is of a dark brown. the tail is
about three inches in length covered with short hair, or at least not
longer than that of the boddy; the outher parts of the anamal are of a
duskey brown or reather a leadcoloured light brown; the anamal is now
sheding it's winter coat which is thick not quite as long as that of the
deer and appears to be intermixed with a considerable quantity of a fine
fur which lyes next to the skin & conceald by the coarcer hear; the
shape of the hair itself is celindric as that of the antelope is but is
smaller shorter, and not compressed or flattened as that of the deer's
winter coat is, I believe this anamal only sheds it's hair once a year. it
has eight fore teeth in the under jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are
lagest at their base, and occupy the crown of the head almost entirely.
they are compressed, bent backwards and lunated; the surface swelling into
wavy rings which incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from
the base to the extremity and becoming less elivated and more distant as
they recede from the head. the horn for about two thirds of it's length is
filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone. I obtained
the bones of the upper part of the head of this animal at the big bone
lick. the horns of the female are small, but are also compress bent
backwards and incircled with a succession of wavy rings. the horn is of a
light brown colour; when dressed it is almost white extreemly transparent
and very elastic. this horn is used by the natives in constructing their
bows; I have no doubt but it would eligant and ucefull hair combs, and
might probably answer as many valuable purposes to civilized man, as it
dose to the savages, who form their watercups spoons and platters of it.
the females have already brought forth their young indeed from the size of
the young I suppose that they produce them early in March. they have from
one to two at a birth. they feed on grass but principally on the arromatic
herbs which grow on the clifts and inaccessable hights which they usually
frequent. the places they gerally celect to lodg is the cranies or cevices
of the rocks in the faces of inacessable precepices, where the wolf nor
bear can reach them and where indeed man himself would in many instancies
find a similar deficiency; yet these anamals bound from rock to rock and
stand apparently in the most careless manner on the sides of precipices of
many hundred feet. they are very shye and are quick of both sent and
sight.
At the distance of two 3/4 miles above our encampment of last evening we
passed a Creek 20 yard wide affording no runing water, we also passed 7
Islands in the course of the day. The Country on either hand is high
broken and rockey; the rock is either soft brown sand stone covered with a
thin strata of limestone, or a hard black rugged grannite, both usually in
horizontal stratas and the Sandy rock overlaying the other. — Salts
and quarts still appear, some coal and pumice stone also appear; the river
bottoms are narrow and afford scarcely any timber. the bars of the river
are composed principally of gravel, but little pine on the hills. We saw a
Pole-cats this evening it is the first we have seen for many days.
buffalow are now scarce and I begin to fear our harvest of white puddings
are at an end.
[Clark, May 25, 1805]
May 25th Satturday 1805" The two Canoes left for meat yesterday did not
joint us untill 8 oClock this morning at which time we Set out, the
morning Cool & pleasent wind a head all day from the S. W. we pass a
Creek on the Lard. Side about 20 yards wide, which does not run, we also
passd 7 Islands, I walked on Shore and killed a female Ibex or big horn
animal in my absence Drewyer & Bratten killed two others, this animale
is a species peculiar to this upper part of the Missouri, the head and
horns of the male which Drewyer killed to day weighed 27 lbs it was
Somewhat larger than the Mail of the Common Deer;) The body reather
thicker deeper and not So long in proportion to its hight as the common
Deer; the head and horns of the male are remarkably large Compared with
the other parts of the animal; the whole form is much more delicate than
that of the common goat, and there is a greater disparity in the Size of
the mail and female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye
is large and prominant, the puple of a deep Sea green and Small, the iris
of a Silvery Colour much like the common Sheep; the bone above the Eye is
remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip are
precisely in form like the Sheep. their legs resemble the Sheep more than
any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more delicately
formed, like the Sheep they stand foward in the Knee and the lower joint
of the fore leg is Smallest where it joins the Knee, the hoof is black and
large in perpotion, is divided, very open and roundly pointed at the toe;
like the Sheep; is much hollowed and Sharp on the under edge like the
Scotch goat, has two Small Hoofs behind each foot below the ankle as the
goat Sheep and Deer have. the belley, iner Side of the legs, and the
extremity of the rump and buttocks for about two inches 1/2 around the but
of the tail, are white, as is also the tail except just at its extremity
on the upper Side which is of a dark brown. the tail is about 3 inches in
length covered with Short hair, or at least not longer than that of the
boddy; the outer part of the animal are of a duskey brown or reather a
lead coloured light brown; the animal is now Sheding its winter coat which
is thick not quite as long as that of the Deer and appears to be inter
mixt with a considerable quantity of fine fur which lies next to the Skin
and concealed by the Coarcer hair; the Shape of the hair itself is
cylindric as that of the Antilope is, but is Smaller, Shorter and not
Compressed or flattened as that of the deers winter Coat is. I believe
this animal only Sheds it's hair once a year. it has Eight fore teeth in
the underjaw and no canine teeth. The Horns are large at their base, and
occupy the Crown of the head almost entirely, they are compressed, bent
backwards and lunated; the Surface Swelling into wavey rings which
incircleing the horn continue to Succeed each other from the base to the
extremity and becomeing less elivated and more distant as they receed from
the head. The horn for about two thirds of its length is filled with a
porus bone which is united with the frontal bone (Capt. Lewis obtained the
bones of the upper part of the head of this Animal at the big Bone Lick in
the State of Kentucky which I Saw and find to be the Same in every respect
with those of the Missouri and the Rockey Mountains) the horns of the
female are Small, but are also compressed and bent backwards and incircled
with a Succession of wavy rings. the horn is of a light brown Colour; when
Dressed it is almost white extreamly transparent and very elastic. this
horn is used by the nativs in constructing their bows; I have no doubt of
it's elegance and usefullness in hair Combs, and might probably answer as
maney valuable purpoces to civilized man, as it does to the native
indians, who form their water Cups, Spoons and platters of it. the females
have already brought forth their young indeed from the Size of the young,
I Suppose that they produce them early in March. they have from one to two
at a birth. they feed on grass, but principally on the arramatic herbs
which grow on the Clifts and inaccessable hights which they frequent most
commonly, and the places they generally collect to lodge is the Cranies or
Cevices of the rocks in the face of inaccessable precepices, where the
wolf nor Bear Can reach them, and where indeed man himself would in maney
instances find a Similar deficiency; yet those animals bound from rock to
rock and Stand apparently in the most Careless manner on the Side of
precipices of maney hundred feet. they are very Shy and quick of both Sent
and Sight. The flesh of this animal is dark and I think inferior to the
flesh of the Common Deer, and Superior to the antilope of the Missouri and
the Columbian Plains-. In my walk of this day I saw mountts. on either
side of the river at no great distance, those mountains appeared to be
detached, and not ranges as laid down by the Minetarrees, I also think I
saw a range of high mounts. at a great distance to the S S W. but am not
certain as the horozon was not clear enough to view it with Certainty. The
country on either side is high broken and rockey a dark brown hard rugid
Stone intermixed with a Soft white Sand Stone. the hills contain Coal or
cabonated wood as below and Some Scattering pumistone. the Sides of the
river is bordered with coars gravel, which in maney places have washed
either together or down Small brooks and forms bars at Some distance in
the water, around which the current passes with great valocity. the
bottoms between hills and river are narrow and Contain Scercely any
timber. The appearence of Salts, and bitumun Still Continue. we Saw a
polecat to day being the first which we have Seen for Some time past. The
Air of this quarter is pure and helthy. the water of the Missouri well
tasted not quite So muddy as it is below, not withstanding the last rains
has raised the river a little it is less muddy than it was before the
rain.
[Lewis, May 26, 1805]
Sunday May 26th 1805. Set out at an early hour and proceeded principally
by the toe line, using the oars mearly to pass the river in order to take
advantage of the shores. scarcely any bottoms to the river; the hills high
and juting in on both sides, to the river in many places. the stone
tumbleing from these clifts and brought down by the rivulets as mentioned
yesterday became more troublesome today. the black rock has given place to
a very soft sandstone which appears to be washed away fast by the river,
above this and towards the summits of the hills a hard freestone of a
brownish yellow colour shews itself in several stratas of unequal
thicknesses frequently overlain or incrusted by a very thin strata of
limestone which appears to be formed of concreted shells. Capt. Clark
walked on shore this morning and ascended to the summit of the river hills
he informed me on his return that he had seen mountains on both sides of
the river runing nearly parrallel with it and at no great distance; also
an irregular range of mountains on lard. about 50 mes. distant, the
extremities of which boar W and N. W. from his station. he also saw in the
course of his walk, some Elk, several herds of the Big horn, and the large
hare; the latter is common to every part of this open country. scarcely
any timber to be seen except the few scattering pine and spruce which
crown the high hills, or in some instances grow along their sides. In the
after part of the day I also walked out and ascended the river hills which
I found sufficiently fortiegueing. on arriving to the summit one of the
highest points in the neighbourhood I thought myself well repaid for any
labour; as from this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first
time, I could only discover a few of the most elivated points above the
horizon, the most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N.
65° W. being a little to the N. of the N. W. extremity of the range of
broken mountains seen this morning by Capt. C. these points of the Rocky
Mountains were covered with snow and the sun shone on it in such manner as
to give me the most plain and satisfactory view. while I viewed these
mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself so near the head of
the heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but when I reflected on the
difficulties which this snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way
to the Pacific, and the sufferings and hardships of myself and party in
them, it in some measure counterballanced the joy I had felt in the first
moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always held it a crime to
anticipate evils I will believe it a good comfortable road untill I am
compelled to beleive differently. saw a few Elk & bighorns at a
distance on my return to the river I passed a creek about 20 yds. wide
near it's entrance it had a handsome little stream of runing water; in
this creek I saw several softshelled Turtles which were the first that
have been seen this season; this I believe proceeded reather from the
season than from their non existence in the portion of the river from the
Mandans hither. on the Stard. shore I killed a fat buffaloe which was very
acceptable to us at this moment; the party came up to me late in the
evening and encamped for the night on the Lard. side. it was after dark
before we finished butchering the buffaloe, and on my return to camp I
trod within five inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I passed
before he could probably put himself in a striking attitude and
fortunately escaped his bite, I struck about at random with my espontoon
being directed in some measure by his nois untill I killed him. Our
hunters had killed two of the Bighorned Anamals since I had left them. we
also passed another creek a few miles below Turtle Creek on the Stard. 30
yds in width which also had runing water bed rockey. late this evening we
passed a very bad rappid which reached quite across the river, the party
had considerable difficulty in ascending it altho they doubled their crews
and used both the rope and the pole. while they were passing this rappid a
female Elk and it's fawn swam down throught the waves which ran very high,
hence the name of Elk rappids which they instantly gave this place, these
are the most considerable rappids which we have yet seen on the missouri
and in short the only place where there has appeared to be a suddon
decent. opposite to these rappids there is a high bluff and a little above
on Lard. a small cottonwood bottom in which we found sufficient timber for
our fires and encampment. here I rejoined the party after dark. The
appearances of coal in the face of the bluffs, also of birnt hills, pumice
stone salt and quarts continue as yesterday. This is truly a desert barren
country and I feel myself still more convinced of it's being a
continuation of the black hills. we have continued every day to pass more
or less old stick lodges of the Indians in the timbered points, there are
two even in this little bottom where we lye.
[Clark, May 26, 1805]
May 26th Sunday 1805 We Set out early and proceeded as yesterday wind from
the S. W. the river enclosed with very high hills on either Side. I took
one man and walked out this morning, and ascended the high countrey to
view the mountains which I thought I Saw yesterday, from the first Sumit
of the hill I could plainly See the Mountains on either Side which I Saw
yesterday and at no great distance from me, those on the Stard Side is an
errigular range, the two extremities of which bore West and N. West from
me. those Mountains on the Lard. Side appeared to be Several detached
Knobs or mountains riseing from a leven open Countrey, at different
distances from me, from South West to South East, on one the most S.
Westerly of those Mountains there appeared to be Snow. I crossed a Deep
holler and assended a part of the plain elevated much higher than where I
first viewed the above mountains; from this point I beheld the Rocky
Mountains for the first time with Certainty, I could only discover a fiew
of the most elivated points above the horizon. the most remarkable of
which by my pocket Compas I found bore S. 60 W. those points of the rocky
Mountain were Covered with Snow and the Sun Shown on it in Such a manner
as to give me a most plain and Satisfactory view. whilst I viewed those
mountains I felt a Secret pleasure in finding myself So near the head of
the heretofore Conceived boundless Missouri; but when I reflected on the
difficulties which this Snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way
to the Pacific Ocean, and the Sufferings and hardships of my Self and
party in them, it in Some measure Counter ballanced the joy I had felt in
the first moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always held it
little Short of Criminality to anticipate evils I will allow it to be a
good Comfortable road untill I am Compelled to believe otherwise The high
Country in which we are at present and have been passing for Some days I
take to be a continuation of what the Indians as well as the French
Engages call the Black hills. This tract of Country So Called Consists of
a Collection of high broken and irregular hills and Short Chains of
Mountains, sometimes 100 miles in width and again becoming much narrower,
but always much higher than the Country on either Side; they commence
about the head of the Kanzas river and to the west of that river near the
Arkansaw river, from whence they take their Cource a little to the west of
N. W. approaching the Rocky Mountains obliquely passing the river Platt
near the forks, and intersepting the River Rochejhone near the big bend of
that river, and passing the Missouri at this place-, and probably
Continueing to Swell the Country as far North as the Saskashawan river.
tho they are lower here than they are discribed to the South and may
therefore termonate before they reach the Saskashawan. the Black hills in
their Course northerly appear to approach more nearly the Rocky Mountains.
I Saw a great number of white brant, also the common brown brant, Geese of
the common Size & kind and a Small Species of geese, which differs
considerably from the Common or Canadian Goose; their necks, head and
backs are considerably thicker, Shorter and larger than the other in
propotion to its Size they are also more than a third Smaller, and their
note more like that of the brant or young goose which has not perfectly
acquired his note, in all other respect they are the Same in Colour habits
and the number of feathers in the tail, they frequently also ascocate with
the large Geese when in flocks, but never Saw them pared off with the
larger or common goose. The white Brant ascocates in very large flocks,
they do not appear to be mated or pared off as if they intended to raise
their young in this quarter, I therefore doubt whether they reside here
dureing the Summer for that purpose. this bird is larger than the Common
brown brant or 2/3 of the common goose. it is not So long by Six inches
from point to point of the wings when extended as the other; the back head
and neck are also larger and Stronger; their beak, legs and feet are of a
redish flesh coloured white. the eye of a moderate Size, the puple of a
deep Sea green encircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has 16
feathers of equal length in the tail their note differs but little from
the Common brant. they are of a pure white except the large feathers of
the 1st and 2d joint of the wings which are jut black.
The country which borders the river is high broken and rocky, generally
imbeded with a Soft Sand Stone higher up the hill the Stone is of a
brownish yellow hard and gritty those Stones wash down from the hills into
the river and cause the Shore to be rocky &c. which we find troublesom
to assend there is Scerce any bottom between the Hills & river and but
a fiew trees to be Seen on either Side except Scattering pine on the Sides
of the emence hills; we passed 2 Creeks on the Stard Side both of them had
running water in one of those Creek Capt Lewis tells me he saw Soft Shell
Turtle Capt Lewis in his walk killed a fat Buffalow which we were in want
of our hunters killed 2 Mountain rams or bighorns in the evening late we
passed a rapid which extended quite across the river we assended it by the
assistance of a Cord & poles on the Lard. Side the Cliffs jut over,
the opposit Side is a Small leavel bottom, we Camped a little above in a
Small grove of Cotton trees on the Lard. Side in the rapid we saw a Dow
Elk & her faun, which gave rise to the name of Elk & faun Riffle
we had a few drops of rain at Dark. — the Salts Coal & Burnt hills
& Pumicston Still Continue, game Scerce this Countrey may with
propriety I think be termed the Deserts of America, as I do not Conceive
any part can ever be Settled, as it is deficent in water, Timber & too
Steep to be tilled. We pass old Indian lodges in the woody points everry
day & 2 at our camp &c
[Lewis, May 26, 1805]
May 26, 1805. One of the party killed a bighorned, the head and horns of
which weighed 27 lbs. a hare was also killed which weighed 81/2 lbs. the
hare are now of a pale lead brown colour
[Lewis, May 27, 1805]
Monday May 27th 1805. The wind blew so hard this morning that we did not
sent out untill 10 A.M. we employed the chord most of the day; the river
becomes more rappid and is intercepted by shoals and a greater number of
rocky points at the mouths of the little gulies than we experienced
yesterday. the bluffs are very high steep rugged, containing considerable
quantities of stone and border the river closely on both sides; once
perhaps in the course of several miles there will be a few acres of
tolerably level land in which two or thre impoverished cottonwood trees
will be seen. great quantities of stone also lye in the river and garnish
it's borders, which appears to have tumbled from the bluffs where the
rains had washed away the sand and clay in which they were imbeded. the
bluffs are composed of irregular tho horizontal stratas of yellow and
brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white sand, of soft yellowish
white sand stone and a hard dark brown free stone, also of large round
kidneyformed and irregular seperate masses of a hard black Iron stone,
which is imbeded in the Clay and sand. some little pine spruce and dwarf
cedar on the hills. some coal or carbonated wood still makes it's
appearance in these bluffs, pumicestone and birnt hills it's concommutants
also are seen. the salts and quarts are seen but not in such abundance.
the country more broken and barren than yesterday if possible. about
midday it was very warm to this the high bluffs and narrow channel of the
river no doubt contributed greatly. we passed a small untimbered Island
this morning on the Lard. side of the river just above our encampment of
last evening. saw a few small herds of the Bighorned anamals and two Elk
only, of the last we killed one, the river is generally about 200 yds.
wide, very rappid and has a perceptable fall or declination through it's
whole course.
This evening we encamped, for the benefit of wood, near two dead toped
cottonwood trees on the Lard. side; the dead limbs which had fallen from
these trees furnished us with a scanty supply only, and more was not to be
obtained in the neighbourhood.
[Clark, May 27, 1805]
May 27th Monday 1805. The wind blew hard from the S W. which detained us
untill about 10 oClock, at which time we Set out and proceeded on, passed
a Small nacked Island on the Lard Side imediately above the timber in
which we Camped The river is verry Shoaley and the bad places are verry
numerous, i e at the mouth of every Drean the rocks which is a hard dark
gritey Stone is thrown out Some distance in the river which Cause a
Considerable riffle on that Side, the hills approach the river verry Close
on either Side, river narrow & no timber except Some Scattering pine
on the hills & hill Sides, the Salts, Coal, burn hills & Pumice
Stone &c. Continue, the hills are Generally Bluffs of various Coloured
earth most commonly black with different quallities stone intermixed Some
Stratums of Soft Sand Stone, Some hard, Some a dark brown & yellow
hard grit, those Stones are loosened by the earths washing from them into
the river and ultimately role down into the river, which appears to be
Crowded with them. This day is verry worm — we only Saw a fiew Small
herds of the big horn animals on the hills, and two Elk one of which We
killed, we Camped at 2 dead top trees on the Lard Side. The river is Genly
about 200 yards wide and Current very Swift to day and has a verry
perceptiable fall in all its Course — it rises a little.
[Lewis, May 28, 1805]
Tuesday May 28th 1805. This morning we set forward at an early hour; the
weather dark and cloudy, the are smokey, had a few drops of rain; we
employed the chord generally to which we also gave the assistance of the
pole at the riffles and rocky points; these are as numerous and many of
them much worse than those we passed yesterday; arround those points the
water drives with great force, and we are obliged in many instaces to
steer our vessels through the appertures formed by the points of large
sharp rocks which reach a few inches above the surface of the water, here
sould our chord give way the bough is instantly drivin outwards by the
stream and the vessel thrown with her side on the rocks where she must
inevitably overset or perhaps be dashed to peices; our ropes are but
slender, all of them except one being made of Elk's skin and much woarn,
frequently wet and exposed to the heat of the weather are weak and rotten;
they have given way several times in the course of the day but happily at
such places that the vessel had room to wheel free of the rocks and
therefore escaped injury; with every precaution we can take it is with
much labour and infinite risk that we are enabled to get around these
points. found a new indian lodge pole today which had been brought down by
the stream, it was woarn at one end as if draged by dogs or horses; a
football also, and several other articles were found, which have been
recently brought down by the courant; these are strong evedences of
Indians being on the river above us, and probably at no great distance;
the football is such as I have seen among the Minetaries and therefore
think it most probable that they are a band of the Minetaries of Fort de
Prarie. the river country &c continued much as yesterday untill late
in the evening when we arrived at the entrance of a large Creek discharges
itself on the Stard. side, is 35 Yd. wide and contains runing water; here
the hills recede from the river on both sides, the bottoms extensive
particularly on the Stard. side where the hills are comparitively low and
open into three large vallies which extend for a considerable distance in
a Northwardly direction; here also the river spreads to more than 3 times
it's former width and is filled with a number of small and handsome
Islands covered with cottonwood some timber also in the bottoms, the land
again fertile. These appearances were quite reviving after the drairy
country through which we had been passing. Capt. C. walked on shore in the
early part of the day and killed a big horned anamal; he saw a great
number of them as well as ourselves in the broken country. at 10 A.M. a
few drops of rain again fell and were attended with distant thunder which
is the first we have heated since we left the Mandans. — This evening
we encamped on Stard. opposite to the entrance of a small Creek. I beleive
the bighorn have their young at a very early season, say early in March
for they appear now to be half grown. One of the party saw a very large
bear today but being some distance from the river and no timber to conceal
him he did not think proper to fire on him.
[Clark, May 28, 1805]
May 28th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Some fiew drops of rain and verry
Smokey wind from the S. W. we Set out at an early hour, the Shoaley places
are verry numerous and Some bad to get around we have to make use of the
Cord & Poles, and our tow. ropes are all except one of Elkskin, &
Stretch and Sometimes brake which indanger the Perogues or Canoe, as it
imedeately turns and if any rock Should chance to be below, the rapidity
of the current would turn her over, She Should chance to Strike the rock
we observe great Caution at those places.
I walked on Shore found the Countrey ruged and as described yesterday, I
Saw great numbers of the Big horned animals, one of which I killed their
fauns are nearly half grown — one of the Party Saw a verry large bear,
picked up on the Shore a pole which had been made use of by the Nativs for
lodge poles, & haul'd by dogs it is new and is a Certain Sign of the
Indians being on the river above a foot ball and Several other articles
are also found to Substantiate this oppinion-. at 1 oClock we had a few
drops of rain and Some thunder whic is the first thunder we have had Sinc
we Set out from Fort Mandan; at 10 miles the the hills begin to widen
& the river Spreds & is crouded with Islands the bottoms Contain
Some Scattering Cotton wood the Islands also Contain timber — passed a
Creek of running water on the Stard Side about 35 yards wide and camped
imedeately opposit to a Small Creek on the Lard. Side we call Bull Creek
from the Circumstance of a Buffalow Bull swiming from the opposit Side and
comeing out of the river imedeately across one of the Perogues without
Sinking or injureing any thing in the Perogue, and passing with great
violence thro our Camp in the night makeing 3 angles without hurting a
man, altho they lay in every direction, and it was very dark The Creek
below 35 yards wide I call Thompsons Creek after a valuable member of our
party — this Creek contains a Greater preportion of running water than
Common.
[Lewis, May 29, 1805]
Wednesday May 29th 1905. Last night we were all allarmed by a large
buffaloe Bull, which swam over from the opposite shore and coming along
side of the white perogue, climbed over it to land, he then alarmed ran up
the bank in full speed directly towards the fires, and was within 18
inches of the heads of some of the men who lay sleeping before the
centinel could allarm him or make him change his course, still more
alarmed, he now took his direction immediately towards our lodge, passing
between 4 fires and within a few inches of the heads of one range of the
men as they yet lay sleeping, when he came near the tent, my dog saved us
by causing him to change his course a second time, which he did by turning
a little to the right, and was quickly out of sight, leaving us by this
time all in an uproar with our guns in or hands, enquiring of each other
the case of the alarm, which after a few moments was explained by the
centinel; we were happy to find no one hirt. The next morning we found
that the buffaloe in passing the perogue had trodden on a rifle, which
belonged to Capt. Clark's black man, who had negligently left her in the
perogue, the rifle was much bent, he had also broken the spindle, pivit,
and shattered the stock of one of the bluntderbushes on board, with this
damage I felt well content, happey indeed, that we had sustaned no further
injury. it appears that the white perogue, which contains our most
valuable stores, is attended by some evil gennii. This morning we set out
at an early hour and proceded as usual by the Chord. at the distance of
21/2 miles passed a handsome river which discharged itself on the Lard.
side, I walked on shore and acended this river about a mile and a half in
order to examine it. I found this river about 100 yds. wide from bank to
bank, the water occupying about 75 yard. the bed was formed of gravel and
mud with some sand; it appeared to contain much more water as the
Muscle-Shell river, was more rappid but equally navigable; there were no
large stone or rocks in it's bed to obstruct the navigation; the banks
were low yet appeared seldom to overflow; the water of this River is Clear
than any we have met with great abundance of the Argalia or Bighorned
animals in the high country through which this river passes Cap. C who
assended this R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call it
Judieths River. The bottoms of this stream as far as I could see were
wider and contained more timber than the Missouri; here I saw some box
alder intermixed with the Cottonwood willow rose bushes and honeysuckle
with some red willow constitute the undergrowth. on the Missouri just
above the entrance of the Big Horn River I counted the remains of the
fires of 126 Indian lodges which appeared to be of very recent date
perhaps 12 or 15 days. Capt. Clark also saw a large encampent just above
the entrance of this river on the Stard. side of reather older date,
probably they were the same Indians. The Indian woman with us exmined the
mockersons which we found at these encampments and informed us that they
were not of her nation the Snake Indians, but she beleived they were some
of the Indians who inhabit the country on this side of Rocky Mountains and
North of the Missoury and I think it most probable that they were the
Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. At the distance of six 1/2 ms. from our
encampment of last night we passed a very bad rappid to which we gave the
name of the Ash rappid from a few trees of that wood growing near them;
this is the first ash I have seen for a great distance. at this place the
hills again approach the river closely on both sides, and the same seen
which we had on the 27th and 28th in the morning again presents itself,
and the rocky points and riffles reather more numerous and worse; there
was but little timber; salts coal &c still appear. today we passed on
the Stard. side the remains of a vast many mangled carcases of Buffalow
which had been driven over a precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and
perished; the water appeared to have washed away a part of this immence
pile of slaughter and still their remained the fragments of at least a
hundred carcases they created a most horrid stench. in this manner the
Indians of the Missouri distroy vast herds of buffaloe at a stroke; for
this purpose one of the most active and fleet young men is scelected and
disguised in a robe of buffaloe skin, having also the skin of the
buffaloe's head with the years and horns fastened on his head in form of a
cap, thus caparisoned he places himself at a convenient distance between a
herd of buffaloe and a precipice proper for the purpose, which happens in
many places on this river for miles together; the other indians now
surround the herd on the back and flanks and at a signal agreed on all
shew themselves at the same time moving forward towards the buffaloe; the
disguised indian or decoy has taken care to place himself sufficiently
nigh the buffaloe to be noticed by them when they take to flight and
runing before them they follow him in full speede to the precepice, the
cattle behind driving those in front over and seeing them go do not look
or hesitate about following untill the whole are precipitated down the
precepice forming one common mass of dead an mangled carcases; the decoy
in the mean time has taken care to secure himself in some cranney or
crivice of the clift which he had previously prepared for that purpose.
the part of the decoy I am informed is extreamly dangerous, if they are
not very fleet runers the buffaloe tread them under foot and crush them to
death, and sometimes drive them over the precepice also, where they perish
in common with the buffaloe. — we saw a great many wolves in the
neighbourhood of these mangled carcases they were fat and extreemly
gentle, Capt. C. who was on shore killed one of them with his espontoon.
just above this place we came too for dinner opposite the entrance of a
bold runing river 40 yds. wide which falls in on Lard. side. this stream
we called slaughter river. it's bottoms are but narrow and contain
scarcely any timber. our situation was a narrow bottom on the Stard.
possessing some cottonwood. soon after we landed it began to blow &
rain, and as there was no appearance of even wood enough to make our fires
for some distance above we determined to remain here untill the next
morning, and accordingly fixed our camp and gave each man a small dram.
notwithstanding the allowance of sperits we issued did not exceed 1/2 pn.
man several of them were considerably effected by it; such is the effects
of abstaining for some time from the uce of sperituous liquors; they were
all very merry. — The hunters killed an Elk this evening, and Capt. C.
killed two beaver.
[Clark, May 29, 1805]
May 29th Wednesday 1805 In the last night we were alarmed by a Buffalow
which Swam from the opposit Shore landed opposit the Perogue in which Capt
Lewis & my Self were in he Crossed the perogue, and went with great
force up to the fire where Several men were Sleeping and was 18 inches of
their heads, when one man Sitting up allarmed him and he turned his course
along the range of men as they lay, passing between 4 fires and within a
fiew Inches of Some of the mens heads as they lay imediately in a
direction to our lodge about which Several men were lying. our Dog flew
out & he changed his course & passed without doeing more damage
than bend a rifle & brakeing hir Stock and injureying one of the
blunder busts in the perogue as he passed through — We Set out this
morning at the usial hour & proceeded on at 21/2 miles passed the
mouth of a river ____ yards wide, discharging a great quantity of water,
and Containing more wood in its bottoms than the Missouri — this river
Capt Lewis walked up for a Short distance & he Saw an old encampment
of Indians (I also saw large encampment on the Stard Side at the mouth of
a Small Creek of about 100 Lodges which appeared to be 5 or 6 weeks past,
the Indian woman examined the mockersons &c. and told us they were the
Indians which resided below the rocky mountains & to the North of this
river,that her nation make their mockersons differently) at 61/2 miles
passed a considerable rapid at which place the hills approach near the
river on both Sides, leaveing a narrow bottom on the Stard. Side, (ash
rapid) and continue Close all day but little timber, I walked on the bank
in the evening and saw the remains of a number of buffalow, which had been
drove down a Clift of rocks I think from appearances that upwards of 100
of those animals must have perished here, Great numbers of wolves were
about this place & verry jentle I killed one of them with my Spear.
The hills above ash rapid Contains more rock and Coal, and the more rapid
points. we Came too for Dinner opposit the enterence of a Small river
which falls in on the Lard Side and is about ____ yards wide, has a bold
running Stream, Soon after we Came too it began to rain & blow hard,
and as we were in a good harbor & Small point of woods on the Stard
Side, and no timber for some distance above, induced us to conclude to
Stay all night. we gave the men a dram, altho verry Small it was Sufficent
to effect Several men. one of our hunters killed an elk this evening — I
killed 2 beaver on the Side of the bank a table Spoon full of water
exposed to the air in a Saucer would avaperate in 36 hours when the
mercury did not Stand higher than the temperate point in the heat of the
day.
[Lewis, May 30, 1805]
Thursday May 30th 1805. The rain which commenced last evening continued
with little intermission untill 11this morning when we set out; the high
wind which accompanied the rain rendered it impracticable to procede
earlyer. more rain has now fallen than we have experienced since the 15th
of September last. many circumstances indicate our near approach to a
country whos climate differs considerably from that in which we have been
for many months. the air of the open country is asstonishingly dry as well
as pure. I found by several experiments that a table spoon full of water
exposed to the air in a saucer would avaporate in 36 hours when the
murcury did not stand higher than the temperate point at the greatest heat
of the day; my inkstand so frequently becoming dry put me on this
experiment. I also observed the well seasoned case of my sextant shrunk
considerably and the joints opened. The water of the river still continues
to become clearer and notwithstanding the rain which has fallen it is
still much clearer than it was a few days past. this day we proceded with
more labour and difficulty than we have yet experienced; in addition to
the imbarrasments of the rappid courant, riffles, & rockey point which
were as bad if not worse than yesterday, the banks and sides of the bluff
were more steep than usual and were now rendered so slippery by the late
rain that the men could scarcely walk. the chord is our only dependance
for the courant is too rappid to be resisted with the oar and the river
too deep in most places for the pole. the earth and stone also falling
from these immence high bluffs render it dangerous to pass under them. the
wind was also hard and against us. our chords broke several times today
but happily without injury to the vessels. we had slight showers of rain
through the course of the day, the air was could and rendered more
disagreeable by the rain. one of the party ascended the river hills and
reported on his return that there was snow intermixed with the rain which
fell on the hights; he also informed us that the country was level a
little back from the river on both sides. there is now no timber on the
hills, an only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, box Alder and willows to
be seen along the river. in the course of the day we passed several old
encampment of Indians, from the apparent dates of which we conceived that
they were the several encampments of a band of about 100 lodges who were
progressing slowly up the river; the most recent appeared to have been
evacuated about 5 weeks since. these we supposed to be the Minetares or
black foot Indians who inhabit the country watered by the Suskashawan and
who resort to the establishment of Fort de Prarie, no part of the Missouri
from the Minetaries to this place furnishes a perminent residence for any
nation yet there is no part of it but what exhibits appearances of being
occasionally visited by some nation on hunting excurtions. The Minnetares
of the Missoury we know extend their excurtions on the S. side as high as
the yellowstone river; the Assinniboins still higher on the N. side most
probably as high as about Porcupine river and from thence upwards most
probably as far as the mountains by the Minetares of Fort de Prarie and
the Black Foot Indians who inhabit the S. fork of the Suskashawan. I say
the Missouri to the Rocky mountains for I am convinced that it penetrates
those mountains for a considerable distance. — Two buffaloe killed
this evening a little above our encampment.
[Clark, May 30, 1805]
May 30th Thursday 1805 The rain conmmenced yesterday evining, and
continued moderately through the course of the night, more rain has now
fallin than we have experienced Since the 15th of September last, the rain
continued this morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill
about 11 oClock at which time we Set out, and proceeded on with great
labour, we were obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were
So muddey & Slipery that the men could Scercely walk not with Standing
we proceeded on as well as we could wind hard from the N W. in attempting
to assend a rapid our toe Cord broke & we turned without injurey,
those rapids or Shoaley points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at
the mouth of every drean Some little rain at times all day one man
assended the high Countrey and it was raining & Snowing on those
hills, the day has proved to be raw and Cold. Back from the river is
tollerably leavel, no timber of any kind on the hills, and only a fiew
Scattering cotton willow & ash near the river, much hard rock; &
rich earth, the Small portion of rain which has fallen causes the rich
earth as deep as is wet to Slip into the river or bottoms &c.
we discover in Several places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a
fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing up the river — Those Indians
we believe to be the Blackfoot Inds. or Menetares who inhabit the heads of
the Saskashowin & north of this place and trade a little in the Fort
de Prarie establishments. we Camped in a grove of Cotton trees on the
Stard Side, river rise 11/2 In.
[Lewis, May 31, 1805]
Friday May 31st 1805. This morning we proceeded at an early hour with the
two perogues leaving the canoes and crews to bring on the meat of the two
buffaloe that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in
as it was late and a little off the river. soon after we got under way it
began to rain and continued untill meridian when it ceased but still
remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. The obstructions of rocky
points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places the men
are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the water is
yet very could, and so frequent are those point that they are one fourth
of their time in the water, added to this the banks and bluffs along which
they are obliged to pass are so slippery and the mud so tenacious that
they are unable to wear their mockersons, and in that situation draging
the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking ocasionally for several hundred
yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which tumble from the clifts and
garnish the borders of the river; in short their labour is incredibly
painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it without a murmur.
The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and that
on which we most depended, gave way today at a bad point, the perogue
swung and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near overseting; I
fear her evil gennii will play so many pranks with her that she will go to
the bottomm some of those days. — Capt. C. walked on shore this
morning but found it so excessively bad that he shortly returned. at 12
OCk. we came too for refreshment and gave the men a dram which they
received with much cheerfullness, and well deserved.
The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most romantic
appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300
feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of
remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way readily
to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas of white
free-stone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbeded in
these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them; the earth on the
top of these Clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming a graduly ascending
plain extends back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where the hills commence and
rise abruptly to a hight of about 300 feet more. The water in the course
of time in decending from those hills and plains on either side of the
river has trickled down the soft sand clifts and woarn it into a thousand
grotesque figures, which with the help of a little immagination and an
oblique view at a distance, are made to represent eligant ranges of lofty
freestone buildings, having their parapets well stocked with statuary;
collumns of various sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen
supporting long galleries in front of those buildings; in other places on
a much nearer approach and with the help of less immagination we see the
remains or ruins of eligant buildings; some collumns standing and almost
entire with their pedestals and capitals; others retaining their pedestals
but deprived by time or accident of their capitals, some lying prostrate
an broken othes in the form of vast pyramids of connic structure bearing a
sereis of other pyramids on their tops becoming less as they ascend and
finally terminating in a sharp point. nitches and alcoves of various forms
and sizes are seen at different hights as we pass. a number of the small
martin which build their nests with clay in a globular form attatched to
the wall within those nitches, and which were seen hovering about the tops
of the collumns did not the less remind us of some of those large stone
buildings in the U States. the thin stratas of hard freestone intermixed
with the soft sandstone seems to have aided the water in forming this
curious scenery. As we passed on it seemed as if those seens of visionary
inchantment would never have and end; for here it is too that nature
presents to the view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable
workmanship, so perfect indeed are those walls that I should have thought
that nature had attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not
recollected that she had first began her work. These walls rise to the
hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpendicular, with two regular
faces and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the same
thickness at top which it possesses at bottom. The stone of which these
walls are formed is black, dence and dureable, and appears to be composed
of a large portion of earth intermixed or cemented with a small quantity
of sand and a considerable portion of talk or quarts. these stones are
almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal sizes in the walls,
but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to debth. these are laid
regularly in ranges on each other like bricks, each breaking or covering
the interstice of the two on which it rests. thus the purpendicular
interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones extend entire throughout
the whole extent of the walls. These stones seem to bear some proportion
to the thickness of the walls in which they are employed, being larger in
the thicker walls; the greatest length of the parallelepiped appears to
form the thickness of the thiner walls, while two or more are employed to
form that of the thicker walls. These walls pass the river in several
places, rising from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs,
which they seem to penetrate; thence continuing their course on a streight
line on either side of the river through the gradually ascending plains,
over which they tower to the hight of from ten to seventy feet until) they
reach the hills, which they finally enter and conceal themselves. these
walls sometimes run parallel to each other, with several ranges near each
other, and at other times interscecting each other at right angles, having
the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardens. I walked on
shore this evening and examined these walls minutely and preserved a
specimine of the stone. I found the face of many of the river hills formed
of Clifts of very excellent free stone of a light yellowish brown colour;
on these clifts I met with a species of pine which I had never seen, it
differs from the pitchpine in the particular of it's leaf and cone, the
first being vastly shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more
pointed. I saw near those bluffs the most beautiful) fox that I ever
beheld, the colours appeared to me to be a fine orrange yellow, white and
black, I endevoured to kill this anamal but it discovered me at a
considerable distance, and finding that I could get no nearer, I fired on
him as he ran, and missed him; he concealed himself under the rocks of the
clift; it appeared to me to be about the size of the common red fox of the
Atlantic states, or reather smaller than the large fox common to this
country; convinced I am that it is a distinct species. The appearance of
coal continues but in small quantities, but little appearance of birnt
hills or pumice stones the mineral salts have in some measure abated and
no quarts. we saw a great number of the Bighorn some mule deer and a few
buffaloe and Elk, no antelopes or common deer. Drewyer who was with me and
myself killed two bighorned anamals; the sides of the Clifts where these
anamals resort much to lodg, have the peculiar smell of the sheepfolds.
the party killed in addition to our hunt 2 buffaloe and an Elk. the river
today has been from 150 to 250 yds. wide but little timber today on the
river.
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805. A cloudy morning we dispatched all the Canoes to
Collect the meat of 2 Buffalow killed last night a head and a little off
the river, and proceeded on with the perogues at an early hour. I
attempted to walk on Shore Soon found it verry laborious as the mud Stuck
to my mockersons & was verry Slippery. I return'd on board. it
continued to rain moderately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased, &
Continued Cloudy. the Stone on the edge of the river continue to form
verry Considerable rapids, which are troublesom & dificuelt to pass,
our toe rope which we are obliged to make use of altogether broke & we
were in Some danger of turning over in the perogue in which I was, we
landed at 12 and refreshed the men with a dram, our men are obliged to
under go great labour and fatigue in assending this part of the Missouri,
as they are compelled from the rapidity of the Current in many places to
walk in the water & on Slippery hill Sides or the Sides of rocks, on
Gravel & thro a Stiff mud bear footed, as they Cannot keep on
Mockersons from the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Slipy. hills
Sides — the Hills and river Clifts of this day exhibit a most
romantick appearance on each Side of the river is a white Soft Sand Stone
bluff which rises to about half the hight of the hills, on the top of this
Clift is a black earth on points, in maney places this Sand Stone appears
like antient ruins some like elegant buildings at a distance, Some like
Towers &c. &c. in maney places of this days march we observe on
either Side of the river extraodanary walls of a black Semented Stone
which appear to be regularly placed one Stone on the other, Some of those
walls run to the hite of 100 feet, they are from about 1 foot to 12 feet
thick and are perpendicular, those walls Commence at the waters edge &
in Some places meet at right angles — those walls appear to Continue
their Course into the Sand Clifts, the Stones which form those walls are
of different Sizes all Squar edged, Great numbers has fallen off from the
walls near the river which cause the walls to be of uneaquil hite, in the
evening the Countrey becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the
uplands, except a few Cedar & pine on the Clifts a few Scattering
Cotton trees on the points in the river bottoms, The apparance of Coal
Continus Capt Lewis walked on Shore & observed a Species of Pine we
had never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than Common & the bur
different, he also Collected Some of the Stone off one of the walls which
appears to be a Sement of Isin glass black earth we Camped on the Stard
Side in a Small timbered bottom above the mouth of a Creek on the Stard
Side our hunters killed, 2 animals with big horns, 2 Buffalow & an
Elk, we Saw Great numbers of those big horned animals on the Clifts, but
fiew Buffalow or Elk, no antelope, a fiew mule deer, Saw a fox to day. The
river rises a little it is from 150 to 250 yds. wide
[Clark, May 31, 1805]
May 31st Friday 1805 Cloudy morning, we proceeded on at an early hour with
the two Perogues leaving the Canoes and crews to bring on the meat of two
Buffalow that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in
as it was late and a little off the river. Soon after we got under way it
began to rain and Continued untill 12 oClock when it Seased but Still
remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. the obstructions of rocky
points and riffles Still continue as yesterday; at those places the men
are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the water is
yet very cold, and So frequent are those points that they are one fourth
of their time in the water. added to this the bank and bluff along which
they are obliged to pass are So Slippery and the mud So tenatious that
they are unable to bare their mockersons, and in that Situation dragging
the heavy burthen of a Canoe and Walking occasionally for Several hundred
yards over the Sharp fragments of rocks which tumble from the Clifts; and
in Short their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those
faithfull fellows bear it without a murmer.
The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and that
on which we most depended, gave way to day at a bad point, the perogue
Swong and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near oversetting; I
fear her evil Ginnie will play So many pranks with her that She will go to
the bottom Some of those days.
I attempted to walk on Shore this morning but found it so excessivily bad
that I Soon returned on board. at 12 oClock we came too for refreshment
and gave the men a dram which they received with much Chearfulness, and
well deserved all wet and disagreeable. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore, he
informed one that he Saw "the most butifull fox in the world" the Colour
appeared to him to be of a fine Orrange yellow, white and black, he fired
at this fox running and missed him, he appeared to be about the size of
the common red fox of the united States, or rather smaller.
The hills and river clifts which we pass to day exhibit a most romantic
appearance. The Bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300
feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of
remarkable white Sandstone which is Sufficiently Soft to give way readily
to the impression of water; two or three thin horizontal Stratas of white
free Stone, on which the rains or water make no impression, lie imbeded in
those clifts of Soft Stone near the upper part of them; the earth on the
top of these clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming a gradual ascending
plain extend back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where the hills commence and
rise abruptly to the hight of about 300 feet more. The water in the Course
of time acecending from those hills and plains on either Side of the river
has trickled down the Soft Sand Clifts and woarn it into a thousand
grotesque figures; which with the help of a little imagination and an
oblique view at a distance are made to represent elegant ranges of lofty
freestone buildings, haveing their parapets well Stocked with Statuary;
Colloms of various Sculptures both Grooved and plain, are also Seen
Supporting long galleries in part of those buildings; in other places on a
much nearer approach and with the with the help of less immagination we
See the remains of ruins of eligant buildings; Some Collumns Standing and
almost entire with their pedestals and Capitals, others retaining their
pedestals but deprived by time or accedint of their capitals, Some lying
prostrate and broken, others in the form of vast Pyramids of connic
Structure bearing a Serious of other pyramids on their tops becomeing less
as they ascend and finally termonateing in a Sharp point. nitches and
alcoves of various forms and Sizes are Seen at different hights as we
pass. a number of the Small martin which build their nests with Clay of a
globular form attached to the wall within those nitches, and which were
Seen hovering about the top of the collumns did not the less remind us of
Some of those large Stone buildings in the United States. The thin Stratas
of hard free Stone intermixed with the Soft Sand Stone Seems to have aided
the water in forming this Curious Scenery.
as we passed on it Seemed as if those Seens of Visionary enchantment would
never have an end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of
the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, So perfect
indeed are those walls that I Should have thought that nature had
attempted here to rival the human art of Masonry had I not recollected
that She had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in many
places of 100 feet, are perpindicular, with two regular faces, and are
from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the Same thickness to the top
which it possesses at bottom. The Stone of which these walls are formed is
black, dense and dureable, and appears to be Composed of a large portion
of earth intermixed or Cemented with a Small quantity of Sand and a
Considerable portion of quarts. these Stones are almost invariably regular
parallelepipeds, of unequal Sizes in the wall, but equal in their
horizontal ranges, at least as to debth. These are laid regularly in
ranges on each other like bricks, each breaking or covering this
interstice of the two on which it rests, thus the pirpendicular
interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones extend entire throughout
the whole extent of the walls. These Stones Seam to bear Some proportion
to the thickness of the walls in which they are employd, being larger in
the thicker walls; the greatest length of the parallelepiped appear to
form the thickness of the thiner walls, while two or more are employed to
form that of the thicker walls. Those walls pass the river in Several
places rising from the waters edge much above the Sand Stone Bluffs, which
they Seam to penetrate; thence Continueing their course on a Streight line
on either Side of the river thorough the gradually ascending plains over
which they tower to the hight of from ten to 90 feet untill they reach the
hills which they finally enter and Conceal themselves. these walls
Sometimes run parallel to each other, with Several ranges near each other,
and at other times intersecting each other at right angles, haveing the
appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardins. both Capt Lewis and
My self walked on Shore this evening and examined those walls minutely and
preserved a Specimine of the Stone. — I found many clifts of very
excellent free Stone of a light yellowish brown Colour. Capt. Lewis
observed a Species of pine which I had never Seen, it differs from the
pitch pine in the particular of its leaf and Cone, the first being partly
Shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more pointed. The
appearance of Coal Continues but in Smaller quantities, but little
appearance of burnt hills or pumicestone. the mineral Salt in Some measure
have abated and no quarts. we Saw a great number of the Big Horn, Some
mule deer, and a few Buffalow and Elk, no antelopes or Common Deer-. Capt.
Lewis killed a Big horn animal. the party killed 2 Buffalow one Elk and a
Big horn or Ibex to day. The river has been from 150 to 250 yards wide
but little timber on the river to day. river less muddy than it was below.
[Lewis, June 1, 1805]
Saturday June 1st 1805 The moring was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set
out at an early hour and proceeded as usual by the help of our chords. the
river Clifts and bluffs not so high as yesterday and the country becomes
more level. a mountain or a part of the N. Mountain appears to approach
the river within 8 or 10 ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last
evening. Capt C. who walked on shore today informed me that the river
hills were much lower than usual and that from the tops of those hills he
had a delightfull view of rich level and extensive plains on both sides of
the river; in those plains, which in many places reach the river clifts,
he observed large banks of pure sand which appeared to have been driven by
the S W. winds from the river bluffs and there deposited. the plains are
more fertile at some distance from the river than near the bluffs where
the surface of the earth is very generally covered with small smothe
pebbles which have the appearance of having been woarn by the agitation of
the waters in which they were no doubt once immerced. A range of high
Mountains appear to the S. W. at a considerable distance covered with
snow, they appear to run Westerly. no timber appears on the highlands; but
much more than yesterday on the river and Islands. rockey points and
shoals less freequent than yesterday but some of them quite as bad when
they did occur. the river from 2 to 400 yards wide, courant more gentle
and still becoming clearer. game is by no means as abundant as below; we
killed one male bighorn and a mule deer today; saw buffalow at a distance
in the plains particularly near a small Lake on Lard. side about 8 ms.
distant. some few drops of rain again fell this evening. we passed six
Islands and encamped on the 7th; they are all small but contain some
timber. the wind has been against us all day. — I saw the choke cherry
the yellow and red courant bushes; the wild rose appears now to be in full
bloom as are also the prickley pear which are numerous in these plains. — We
also saw some Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to have
been long evacuated. — some coal appear in the bluffs.
[Clark, June 1, 1805]
June 1st Satterday 1805 a Cloudy morning we Set out at an early hour and
proseeded on as usial with the toe rope The Countrey appears to be lower
and the Clifts not So high or Common, a mountain or a part of the north
Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N. of this place, I walked on Shore to day
found the Plains much lower than we have Seen them and on the top we
behold an extencive plain on both Sides, in this plain I observed maney
noles of fine Sand which appeared to have blown from the river bluffs and
collected at these points Those plains are fertile near the river a great
no. of Small Stone, I observed at Some distance to the S. W. a high
mountain which appears to bear westerly The Cole appear as usial, more
Cotton trees Scattered on the Shores & Islands than yesterday — no
timber on the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current
more jentle than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to day — the wild
animals not So plenty as below we only killed a ram & mule Deer to
day, we Saw Buffalow at a distance in the plains, particularly near a Lake
on the Lard. Side about 8 miles distant from the river — We passed Six
Islands and encamped on the 7th all those Islands are Small but contain
Some timber on them The river riseing a little Wind to day from the S. W.
Som fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, flying
Clouds all day
Saw Several Indian camps made of Sticks & bark Set up on end and do
not appear to belong evacuated — The roses are in full bloome, I
observe yellow berries, red berry bushes Great numbers of Wild or choke
Cheries, prickley pares are in blossom & in great numbers
[Lewis, June 2, 1805]
Sunday June 2ed 1805 The wind blew violently last night and was attended
by a slight shower of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at an
early hour. imployed the chord as usual the greater part of the day. the
courant was strong tho regular, and the banks afforded us good toeing. the
wind was hard and against us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease
than the two precedeing days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower
and the plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river
increases in quantity; the country in all other rispects much as discribed
yesterday. I think we are now completely above the black hills we had a
small shower of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was very
moderate. Game becomeing more abundant this morning and I thought it best
now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity to escape in providing the
necessary quantity of Elk's skins to cover my leather boat which I now
expect I shall be obliged to use shortly. Accordingly I walked on shore
most of the day with some of the hunters for that purpose and killed 6 Elk
2 buffale 2 Mule deer and a bear. these anamals were all in good order we
therefore took as much of the meat as our canoes and perogues could
conveniently carry. the bear was very near catching Drewyer; it also
pursued Charbono who fired his gun in the air as he ran but fortunately
eluded the vigilence of the bear by secreting himself very securely in the
bushes untill Drewyer finally killed it by a shot in the head; the shot
indeed that will conquer the farocity of those tremendious anamals. — in
the course of the day we passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of
them containing some timber.
we came too on the Lard. side in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood
timber opposite to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it being
too late to examine these rivers minutely to night we determined to remain
here untill the morning, and as the evening was favourable to make some
obsevations.
[Clark, June 2, 1805]
June 2nd Sunday 1805 we had a hard wind and a little rain last night, this
morning fair we Set out at an early hour, wind from the S W. Some little
rain to day wind hard a head, the Countrey much like that of yesterday as
discribed Capt Lewis walked on Shore, himself & the hunters killed 6
Elk & a Bear and 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalow which was all in good
order a beaver also killed to day, passed 9 Islands to day the Current
Swift but regular, we Camped on the Lard Side at the forks of the river
the Currents & Sizes of them we Could not examine this evening a fair
night we took Some Luner observations of moon & Stears
[Lewis, June 3, 1805]
Monday June 3rd 1805 This morning early we passed over and formed a camp
on the point formed by the junction of the two large rivers. here in the
course of the day I continued my observations as are above stated. An
interesting question was now to be determined; which of these rivers was
the Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz zha or
Missouri, and which they had discribed to us as approaching very near to
the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of the season,
two months of the traveling season having now elapsed, and to ascend such
stream to the rocky Mountain or perhaps much further before we could
inform ourselves whether it did approach the Columbia or not, and then be
obliged to return and take the other stream would not only loose us the
whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the party that it
might defeat the expedition altogether. convinced we were that the utmost
circumspection and caution was necessary in deciding on the stream to be
taken. to this end an investigation of both streams was the first thing to
be done; to learn their widths, debths, comparitive rappidity of their
courants and thence the comparitive bodies of water furnished by each;
accordingly we dispatched two light canoes with three men in each up those
streams; we also sent out several small parties by land with instructions
to penetrate the country as far as they conveniently can permiting
themselves time to return this evening and indeavour if possible to
discover the distant bearing of those rivers by ascending the rising
grounds. between the time of my A.M. and meridian Capt. C & myself
stroled out to the top of the hights in the fork of these rivers from
whence we had an extensive and most inchanting view; the country in every
derection around us was one vast plain in which innumerable herds of
Buffalow were seen attended by their shepperds the wolves; the solatary
antelope which now had their young were distributed over it's face; some
herds of Elk were also seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground,
the weather was pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty
mountains which we supposed to be a continuation of the S. Mountains,
streching themselves from S. E. to N. W. terminating abbrubtly about S.
West from us; these were partially covered with snow; behind these
Mountains and at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of
mountains appeared to strech across the country in the same direction with
the others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W., where their snowey tops
lost themselves beneath the horizon. this last range was perfectly covered
with snow. the direction of the rivers could be seen but little way, soon
loosing the break of their channels, to our view, in the common plain. on
our return to camp we boar a little to the left and discovered a handsome
little river falling into the N. fork on Lard. side about 11/2 ms. above
our camp. this little river has as much timber in it's bottoms as either
of the larger streams. there are a great number of prickley pears in these
plains; the Choke cherry grows here in abundance both in the river bottoms
and in the steep ravenes along the river bluffs. saw the yellow and red
courants, not yet ripe; also the goosberry which begins to ripen; the wild
rose which grows here in great abundance in the bottoms of all these
rivers is now in full bloom, and adds not a little to the beaty of the
cenery. we took the width of the two rivers, found the left hand or S.
fork 372 yards and the N. fork 200. The noth fork is deeper than the other
but it's courant not so swift; it's waters run in the same boiling and
roling manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout
it's whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour very
thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri; while the South
fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid but with a smoth unruffled
surface it's bottom composed of round and flat smooth stones like most
rivers issuing from a mountainous country. the bed of the N. fork composed
of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air & character of
this river is so precisely that of the missouri below that the party with
very few exceptions have already pronounced the N. fork to be the
Missouri; myself and Capt. C. not quite so precipitate have not yet
decided but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should be in the
minority, certain it is that the North fork gives the colouring matter and
character which is retained from hence to the gulph of Mexico. I am
confident that this river rises in and passes a great distance through an
open plain country I expect that it has some of it's souces on the Eastern
side of the rocky mountain South of the Saskashawan, but that it dose not
penetrate the first range of these Mountains and that much the greater
part of it's sources are in a northwardly direction towards the lower and
middle parts of the Saskashawan in the open plains. convinced I am that if
it penetrated the Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would
be clearer unless it should run an immence distance indeed after leaving
those mountains through these level plains in order to acquire it's turbid
hue. what astonishes us a little is that the Indians who appeared to be so
well acquainted with the geography of this country should not have
mentioned this river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the river
that scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in reallity such an
one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen in a considerable
distance below, and on the other hand if this righthand or N. fork be the
Missouri I am equally astonished at their not mentioning the S. fork which
they must have passed in order to get to those large falls which they
mention on the Missouri. thus have our cogitating faculties been busily
employed all day.
Those who have remained at camp today have been busily engaged in dressing
skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that many of them have their feet so
mangled and bruised with the stones and rough ground over which they
passed barefoot, that they can scarcely walk or stand; at least it is with
great pain they do either. for some days past they were unable to wear
their mockersons; they have fallen off considerably, but notwithstanding
the difficulties past, or those which seem now to mennace us, they still
remain perfectly cheerfull. In the evening the parties whom we had sent
out returned agreeably to instructions. The parties who had been sent up
the rivers in canoes informed that they ascended some distance and had
then left their canoes and walked up the rivers a considerable distance
further barely leaving themselves time to return; the North fork was not
so rappid as the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; Six
feet appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch and 5 feet that
of the N. Their accounts were by no means satisfactory nor did the
information we acquired bring us nigher to the decision of our question or
determine us which stream to take. Sergt. Pryor had ascended the N. fork
and had taken the following courses and distances-viz-
Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up the South fork
about 7 mes. on a streight course somewhat N of W. and that there the
little river which discharges itself into the North fork just above us,
was within 100 yards of the S. fork; that they came down this little river
and found it a boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide containg much
timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed cottonwood
with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows rosebushes currents &c.
they saw a great number of Elk on this river and some beaver. Those
accounts being by no means satisfactory as to the fundamental point; Capt.
C. and myself concluded to set out early the next morning with a small
party each, and ascend these rivers untill we could perfectly satisfy
ourselves of the one, which it would be most expedient for us to take on
our main journey to the Pacific. accordingly it was agreed that I should
ascend the right hand fork and he the left. I gave orders to Sergt. Pryor
Drewyer, Shields, Windsor, Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in
readiness to accompany me in the morning. Capt. Clark also selected Reubin
&Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass, Shannon and his black man York, to
accompany him. we agreed to go up those rivers one day and a halfs march
or further if it should appear necessary to satisfy us more fully of the
point in question. the hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today.
the evening proved cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and gave
the men a dram, and made all matters ready for an early departure in the
morning. I had now my sack and blanket happerst in readiness to swing on
my back, which is the first time in my life that I had ever prepared a
burthen of this kind, and I am fully convinced that it will not be the
last. I take my Octant with me also, this I confide La Page.
[Clark, June 3, 1805]
June 3rd Monday 1805 we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the
two rivers, and dispatched a Canoe & three men up each river to
examine and find if possible which is the most probable branch, the left
fork which is the largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention
any river falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri, The
Scolding river, if there is Such a one Should have fallen in below
agreeable to their accts. we also dispatched men in different dircts. by
land, to a mountain Covered with Snow to the South & other up each
river — Capt Lewis and my Self walked out & assended the hill in
the point observed a leavel open Countrey to the foot of the mountains
which lye South of this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork
about 11/2 miles above its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river
discharges a great deal of water & contains as much Cotton timber in
its bottoms as either of the others we saw Buffalow & antelopes &c.
wild Cheries, red & yellow hurries, Goose berries &c. abound in
the river bottoms, prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian
altitude and the Lattd. produced was 47° 24' 12" N. the after part of the
day proved Cloudy, we measured each river and found the one to Right hand
200 yards wide of water & the Left hand fork 372 yards wide &
rapid — the right hand fork falling the other at a Stand and Clear,
the right fork and the river which fall into it is Coloured & a little
muddey. Several men Complain of their feet being Sore in walking in the
Sand & their being Cut by the Stones They to be Sure have a bad time
of it obliged to walk on Shore & haul the rope and 9/10 of their time
bear footed, in the evening late the Canoes returned and the men informed
us that they had assended Some miles by water & left their Canoes
& walked on land the greater part of the day, their accounts by no
means Satisfactory, Serjt. Pryor assended the right hand fork and took the
following Courses, &c
Joseph & Rubin Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a direct line
at which place, the Small river which falls into the right hand fork
approaches within 100 yards of the South fork, they Came down the Small
river which is a bold Stream Covered with Elk & Some beaver, its
bottoms Covered with wood, as the Information given by those parties
respecting the rivers did not Satisfy us as to the main & principal
branch Capt. Lewis & my Self deturmined to go up each of those rivers
one Day & a half with a view to Satisfy ourselves which of the two was
the principal Stream and best calculated for us to assend — The
hunters Killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & Several deer to day we refreshed
our party with a dram &c Cloudy evining.
[Lewis, June 4, 1805]
Tuesday June 4th 1805 This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the
same time I passed the wright hand fork opposite to our camp below a small
Island; from hence I steered N. 30 W. 41/2 to a commanding eminence; here
I took the following bearings of the mountains which were in view. The
North Mountains appear to change their direction from that of being
parallel with the Missouri turning to the North and terminating abruptly;
their termineation bearing N. 48° E distant by estimate 30 mes. The South
Mountains appear to turn to the S. also terminating abrubtly, their
extremity bearing S. 8 W. distant 25 mes. The Barn Mountain, a lofty
mountain so called from it's resemblance to the roof of a large Barn, is a
seperate Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and retreating from
the extremity of the S. mts.; this boar S. 38 W. distant 35 ms. The North
fork which I am now ascending lies to my left and appears to make a
considerable bend to the N. W. on it's Western border a range of hills
about 10 mes. long appear to lye parallel with the river and from hence
bear N. 60° W. to the N. of this range of hills an Elivated point of the
river bluff on it's Lard. side boar N. 72° W. distant 12 mes. to this last
object I now directed my course through a high level dry open plain. the
whole country in fact appears to be one continued plain to the foot of the
mountains or as far as the eye can reach; the soil appears dark rich and
fertile yet the grass is by no means as high nor dose it look so luxurient
as I should have expected, it is short just sufficient to conceal the
ground. great abundance of prickly pears which are extreemly troublesome;
as the thorns very readily perce the foot through the Mockerson; they are
so numerous that it requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid
them In these plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a
small species of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the size of the
common snipe and not unlike it in form with a long celindric curved and
pointed beak; it's wings are proportionately long and the tail short; in
the act of liteing this bird lets itself down by an extention of it's
wings without motion holding their points very much together above it's
back, in this rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever observed.
a number of sparrows also of three distinct species I observed. also a
small bird which in action resembles the lark, it is about the size of a
large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some white fathers in the tail;
this bird or that which I take to be the male rises into the air about 60
feet and supporting itself in the air with a brisk motion of the wings
sings very sweetly, has several shrill soft notes reather of the plaintive
order which it frequently repeats and varies, after remaining stationary
about a minute in his aireal station he descends obliquely occasionly
pausing and accomnying his decension with a note something like twit twit
twit; on the ground he is silent. thirty or forty of these birds will be
stationed in the air at a time in view, these larks as I shall call them
add much to the gayety and cheerfullness of the scene. All those birds are
now seting and laying their eggs in the plains; their little nests are to
be seen in great abundance as we pass. there are meriads of small
grasshoppers in these plains which no doubt furnish the principal aliment
of this numerous progeny of the feathered creation. after walking about
eight miles I grew thisty and there being no water in the plains I changed
my direction and boar obliquely in towards the river, on my arrival at
which about 3 mes. below the point of observation, we discovered two deer
at feed at some distance near the river; I here halted the party and sent
Drewyer to kill one of them for breakfast; this excellent hunter soon
exceded his orders by killing of them both; they proved to be two Mule
Bucks in fine order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made a hearty meal.
it was not yet twelve when we arrived at the river and I was anxious to
take the Meridian Altd. of the sun but the clouds prevent ed my obtaining
the observation. after refreshing ourselves we proceded up the river to
the extremity of the first course, from whence the river boar on it's
general course N. 15° W. 2 M. to a bluff point on Stard. here Drewyer
killed four other deer of the common kind; we skined them and hung up a
part of the meat and the skins as we did also of the first, and took as
much of the meat as we thought would answer for our suppers and proceeded
N. 30 W. 2 m. to the entrance of a large creek on Lard. side the part of
the river we have passed is from 40 to 60 yds. wide, is deep, has falling
banks, the courant strong, the water terbid and in short has every
appearance of the missouri below except as to size. it's bottoms narrow
but well timbered. Salts coal and other mineral appearances as usual; the
bluffs principally of dark brown, yellow and some white clay; some
freestone also appears in places. The river now boar N. 20° E. 12 mes. to
a bluff on Lard. At the commencement of this course we ascended the hills
which are about 200 feet high, and passed through the plains about 3 m.
but finding the dry ravines so steep and numerous we determined to return
to the river and travel through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides
of the bluffs, accordingly we again reached the river about 4 miles from
the commencement of the last course and encamped a small distant above on
the Stard. side in a bend among the willow bushes which defended us from
the wind which blew hard from the N. W. it rained this evening and wet us
to the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we encamped Drewyer
fired at a large brown bar across the river and wounded him badly but it
was too late to pursue him. killed a braro and a beaver, also at the place
of our encampment, a very fine Mule deer. we saw a great number of
Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and foxes today. the river bottoms form one emence
garden of roses, now in full bloe.
[Clark, June 4, 1805]
June 4th Tuesday 1805 Capt. Lewis & my Self each with a Small party of
men Set out earlythose who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer Serjt.
Pryor, J Shields, P. Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser, went up the N. side
of the N. fork. those who accompanied me were Serjt. Gass Jos. & Ruben
Fields G. Shannon & my black man York, and we Set out to examine the
South fork, our first Course was S. 25° W. 7 miles to the S. fork at a
Spring, at which place the little river which falls into the N. fork is
100 yards distant only Seperated from the South fork by a narrow ridge.
our course from thence S. 20° W. 8 miles to the river at an Island where
we dined below a Small river falls in on the S E Side which heads in a
mountain to the S. E about 20 miles. North of this place about 4 miles the
little river brakes thro a high ridge into the open Leavel plain thro
which we have passd. from the point, this plain is covered with low grass
& prickley pear, emence number of Prarie dogs or barking Squirel are
thro this plain — after eating we proceeded on N. 45° W. Struck the
river at 3 miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at which place we encamped in an old
Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark at the river near our camp we Saw two
white Bear, one of them was nearly catching Joseph Fields who could not
fire, as his gun was wet the bear was So near that it Struck his foot, and
we were not in a Situation to give him assistance, a Clift of rocks
Seperated us the bear got allarmed at our Shot & yells & took the
river. — Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several Gangues of Buffalow
at a distance in the open plains on each Side, Saw Mule deer antilopes
& wolves — The river is rapid & Closely himed on one or the
other Side with high bluffs, Crouded with Islands & graveley bars
Containing but a Small quantity of timber on its bottoms & none on the
high land.
[Lewis, June 5, 1805]
Wednesday June 5th 1805. This morning was cloudy and so could that I was
obleged to have recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself
comfortable altho walking. the rain continued during the greater part of
last night. the wind hard from N. W. we set out at sunrise and proceded up
the river eight miles on the course last taken yesterday evening, at the
extremity of which a large creek falls in on the Stard. 25 yards. wide at
it's entrance, some timber but no water, notwithstanding the rain; it's
course upwards is N. E. it is astonishing what a quantity of water it
takes to saturate the soil of this country, the earth of the plains are
now opened in large crivices in many places and yet looks like a rich loam
from the entrance of this Creek (which I called Lark C.) the river boar N.
50. W. 4 m. at the entrance of this creek the bluffs were very steep and
approached the river so near on the Stard. side that we ascended the hills
and passed through the plains; at the extremity of this course we returned
to the river which then boar North 2 rues. from the same point, I
discovered a lofty single mountain which appeard to be at a great
distance, perhaps 80 or more miles it boar N. 52 W. from it's conic figure
I called it tower Mountain. we now passed through the river bottoms to the
extremity of the last course thence with the river S 60° W 11/2 m. S 10 W.
3 m N 50 W 11/2 at the extremity of which I again ascended the bluffs and
took a course to a point of the Lard. bluffs of the river which boar West
10 m. the river making a deep bend to the south that is of at least five
miles from the center of the chord line to the center of the bend. on this
course we passed through the plains found the plains as yesterday
extreemly leavel and beautifull, great quanties of Buffaloe, some wolves
foxes and Antelopes seen. near the river the plain is cut by deep ravines
in this plain and from one to nine miles from the river or any water, we
saw the largest collection of the burrowing or barking squirrels that we
had ever yet seen; we passed through a skirt of the territory of this
community for about 7 miles. I saw a flock of the mountain cock, or a
large species of heath hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians
informed us were common to the Rockey Mountains, I sent Shields to kill
one of them but he was obliged to fire a long distance at them and missed
his aim. as we had not killed or eat anything today we each killed a
burrowing squrrel as we passed them in order to make shure of our suppers.
we again intersepted the river at the expiration of the last course or the
lard. bluffs, from whence it now boar N 80° W. 2 mes. from this point saw
some other lofty mountains to the N. W. of Tower Mtn. which boar N. 65°W.
80 or 100 mes. distant at the expiration of this course we killed five Elk
and a blacktailed or mule deer and encamped on Stard. side of the river in
a handsome well timbered bottom where there were several old stick lodges.
in the forepart of the day there was but little timber in the river
bottoms but the quantity is now greater than usual. the river is about 80
yds. wide with a strong steady courant and from 6 to 10 feet water. I had
the burrowing squirrels roasted by way of experiment and found the flesh
well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.
[Clark, June 5, 1805]
June 5th Wednesday 1805 Some little rain & Snow last night the
mountains to our S E. covered with Snow this morning air verry Cold &
raining a little, we Saw 8 buffalow opposit, they made 2 attempts to
Cross, the water being So Swift they Could not, about the time we were
Setting out three white bear approached our Camp we killed the three &
eate part of one & Set out & proceeded on N. 20° W 11 miles. — k
the river at maney places in this distance to a ridge on the N. Side t m
the top of which I could plainly See a mountain to the South & W.
covered with Snow at a long distance, The mountains opposit to us to the
S. E. is also Covered with Snow this morning. — a high ridge from
those mountains approach the river on the S E Side forming Some Clifts of
hard dark Stone. — From the ridge at which place I Struck the river
last, I could ____ discover that the river run west of South a long
distance, and has a Strong rapid Current, as this river Continued its
width debth & rapidity and the Course west of South, going up further
would be useless, I deturmined to return, I accordingly Set out, thro the
plain on a Course N. 30° E on my return & Struck the little river at
20 miles passing thro a Leavel plain, at the little river we killed 2 buck
Elk & dined on their marrow, proceeded on a few miles & Camped,
haveing killed 2 deer which was verry fat, Some few drops of rain to day,
the evening fair wind hard from the N. E. I Saw great numbers of Elk &
white tale deer, Some beaver, antelope mule deer & wolves & one
bear on this little river marked my name in a tree N. Side near the ridge
where the little river brakes thro
[Lewis, June 6, 1805]
Thursday June 6th 1805. I now became well convinced that this branch of
the Missouri had it's direction too much to the North for our rout to the
Pacific, and therefore determined to return the next day after taking an
observation of the sun's Meridian Altitude in order to fix the latitude of
the place. The forepart of the last evening was fair but in the latter
part of the night clouded up and contnued so with short intervals of
sunshine untill a little before noon when the whole horizon was overcast,
and I of course disappointed in making the observation which I much
wished. I had sent Sergt. Pryor and Windsor early this morning with orders
to procede up the river to some commanding eminence and take it's bearing
as far as possible. in the mean time the four others and myself were
busily engaged in making two rafts on which we purposed descending the
river; we had just completed this work when Sergt. Pryor and Windsor
returned, it being about noon; they reported that they had proceded from
hence S 70 W. 6 m. to the summit of a commanding eminence from whence the
river on their left was about 21/2 miles distant; that a point of it's
Lard. bluff, which was visible boar S 80 W. distant about 15 ms.; that the
river on their left bent gradually arround to this point, and from thence
seemed to run Northwardly. we now took dinner and embarcked with our
plunder and five Elk's skins on the rafts but were soon convinced that
this mode of navigation was hazerdous particularly with those rafts they
being too small and slender. we wet a part of our baggage and were near
loosing one of our guns; I therefore determined to abandon the rafts and
return as we had come, by land. I regreted much being obliged to leave my
Elk's skins, which I wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we
had prepared at Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that they would
not answer. we again swung our packs and took our way through the open
plains for about 12 mes. when we struck the river; the wind blew a storm
from N. E. accompanyed by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very
could. continued our rout down the river only a few miles before the
Abruptness of the clifts and their near approach to the river compelled us
take the plains and once more face the storm; here we boar reather too
much to the North and it was late in the evening before we reached the
river, in our way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much of the
flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. we encamped a
little below the entrance of the large dry Creek called Lark C. having
traveled abut 25 mes. since noon. it continues to rain and we have no
shelter, an uncomfortable nights rest is the natural consequence.
[Clark, June 6, 1805]
June 6th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy Cold raw day wind hard from the N. E. we
Set out early & traveled down the little river which was imedeately in
our Course on this river we killed 7 Deer for their Skins the bottoms of
this little river is in everry respect except in extent like the large
bottoms of the Missouri below the forks containing a great perpotion of a
kind of Cotton wood with a leaf resembling a wild Cherry. I also observed
wild Tanzey on this little river in great quantities, we halted at 12
oClock and eate a part of a fat Buck, after Dinner we assended the Plain
at which time it began to rain and Continued all day, at 5 oClock we
arrived at our Camp on the point, where I expected to meet Capt Lewis he
did not return this evening. — my Self and party much fatigued haveing
walked Constantly as hard as we Could march over a Dry hard plain,
dcending & assending the Steep river hills & gullies, in my
absence the party had killed an Elk & 2 buffalow, I Sent out for the
meat a part of which was brought in — nothing remarkable had
transpired at camp in my absence
[Lewis, June 7, 1805]
Friday June 7th 1805. It continued to rain almost without intermission
last night and as I expected we had a most disagreable and wrestless
night. our camp possessing no allurements, we left our watery beads at an
early hour and continued our rout down the river. it still continues to
rain the wind hard from N. E. and could. the grownd remarkably slipry,
insomuch that we were unable to walk on the sides of the bluffs where we
had passed as we ascended the river. notwithstanding the rain that has now
fallen the earth of these bluffs is not wet to a greater debth than 2
inches; in it's present state it is precisely like walking over frozan
grownd which is thawed to small debth and slips equally as bad. this clay
not only appears to require more water to saturate it as I before observed
than any earth I ever observed but when saturated it appears on the other
hand to yeald it's moisture with equal difficulty. In passing along the
face of one of these bluffs today I sliped at a narrow pass of about 30
yards in length and but for a quick and fortunate recovery by means of my
espontoon I should been precipitated into the river down a craggy
pricipice of about ninety feet. I had scarcely reached a place on which I
could stand with tolerable safety even with the assistance of my espontoon
before I heard a voice behind me cry out god god Capt. what shall I do on
turning about I found it was Windsor who had sliped and fallen abut the
center of this narrow pass and was lying prostrate on his belley, with his
wright hand arm and leg over the precipice while he was holding on with
the left arm and foot as well as he could which appeared to be with much
difficulty. I discovered his danger and the trepedation which he was in
gave me still further concern for I expected every instant to see him
loose his strength and slip off; altho much allarmed at his situation I
disguised my feelings and spoke very calmly to him and assured him that he
was in no kind of danger, to take the knife out of his belt behind him
with his wright hand and dig a hole with it in the face of the bank to
receive his wright foot which he did and then raised himself to his knees;
I then directed him to take off his mockersons and to come forward on his
hands and knees holding the knife in one hand and the gun in the other
this he happily effected and escaped. those who were some little distance
bhind returned by my orders and waded the river at the foot of the bluff
where the water was breast deep. it was useless we knew to attempt the
plains on this part of the river in consequence of the numerous steep
ravines which intersected and which were quite as had as the river bluffs.
we therefore continued our rout down the river sometimes in the mud and
water of the bottom lands, at others in the river to our breasts and when
the water became so deep that we could not wade we cut footsteps in the
face of the steep bluffs with our knives and proceded. we continued our
disagreeable march through the rain mud and water untill late in the
evening having traveled only about 18 miles, and encamped in an old Indian
stick lodge which afforded us a dry and comfortable shelter. during the
day we had killed six deer some of them in very good order altho none of
them had yet entirely discarded their winter coats. we had reserved and
brought with us a good supply of the best peices; we roasted and eat a
hearty supper of our venison not having taisted a mosel before during the
day; I now laid myself down on some willow boughs to a comfortable nights
rest, and felt indeed as if I was fully repaid for the toil and pain of
the day, so much will a good shelter, a dry bed, and comfortable supper
revive the sperits of the waryed, wet and hungry traveler.
[Clark, June 7, 1805]
June 7th Friday 1805 rained moderately all the last night and Continus
this morning, the wind from the S. W, off the mountains, The Themometer
Stood at 40° above 0, I allow Several men to hunt a Short time to day, the
rain Continue moderately all day the bottom verry muddey 2 buffalow an Elk
& Deer killed to day — Capt. Lewis not returned yet. river falling
[Lewis, June 8, 1805]
Saturday June 8th 1805 It continued to rain moderately all last night this
morning was cloudy untill about ten oClock when it cleared off and became
a fine day. we breakfasted and set out about sunrise and continued our
rout down the river bottoms through the mud and water as yesterday, tho
the road was somewhat better than yesterday and we were not so often
compelled to wade in the river. we passed some dangerous and difficult
bluffs. The river bottoms affording all the timber which is to be seen in
the country they are filled with innumerable litle birds that resort
thither either for shelter or to build their nests. when sun began to
shine today these birds appeared to be very gay and sung most
inchantingly; I observed among them the brown thrush, Robbin, turtle dove,
linnit goaldfinch, the large and small blackbird, wren and several other
birds of less note. some of the inhabitants of the praries also take
reffuge in these woods at night or from a storm. The whole of my party to
a man except myself were fully peswaided that this river was the Missouri,
but being fully of opinion that it was neither the main stream or that
which it would be advisable for us to take, I determined to give it a name
and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it Maria's River. it is true that
the hue of the waters of this turbulent and troubled stream but illy
comport with the pure celestial virtues and amiable qualifications of that
lovely fair one; but on the other hand it is a noble river; one destined
to become in my opinion an object of contention between the two great
powers of America and Great Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the
North westwardly boundary of the former; and that it will become one of
the most interesting brances of the Missouri in a commercial point of
view, I have but little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind,
and most probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that
productive country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the
subjects of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a
rich fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I
ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of
living anamals are seen, it's borders garnished with one continued garden
of roses, while it's lofty and open forrests, are the habitation of
miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing traveler
with their wild and simple, yet sweet and cheerfull melody. — I
arrived at camp about 5 OClock in the evening much fatiegued, where I
found Capt. Clark and the ballance of the party waiting our return with
some anxiety for our safety having been absent near two days longer than
we had engaged to return. on our way to camp we had killed 4 deer and two
Antelopes; the skins of which as well as those we killed while on the rout
we brought with us. Maria's river may be stated generally from sixty to a
hundred yards wide, with a strong and steady current and possessing 5 feet
water in the most sholly parts.
As the incidents which occurred Capt. C. during his rout will be more
fully and satisfactoryley expressed by himself I here insert a copy of his
journal during the days we wer seperated.
I now gave myself this evening to rest from my labours, took a drink of
grog and gave the men who had accompanyed me each a dram. Capt. Clark
ploted the courses of the two rivers as far as we had ascended them. I now
began more than ever to suspect the varacity of Mr. Fidler or the
correctness of his instruments. for I see that Arrasmith in his late map
of N. America has laid down a remarkable mountain in the chain of the
Rocky mountains called the tooth nearly as far South as Latitude 45°, and
this is said to be from the discoveries of Mr. Fidler — we are now within a
hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, and I find from my observation of
the 3rd Inst that the latitude of this place is 47° 24' 12.8". the river
must therefore turn much to the South, between this and the rocky Mountain
to have permitted Mr. Fidler to have passed along the Eastern border of
these mountains as far S. as nearly 45° without even seeing it. but from
hence as far as Capt. C. had ascended the S. fork or Missouri being the
distance of 55 miles it's course is S. 29°W. and it still appeared to bear
considerably to the W. of South as far as he could see it. I think
therefore that we shall find that the Missouri enters the rocky mountains
to the North of 45° — we did take the liberty of placing his
discoveries or at least the Southern extremity of them about a degree
further N. in the sketh which we sent on to the government this spring
mearly from the Indian information of the bearing from Fort Mandan of the
entrance of the Missouri into the Rocky Mountains, and I reather suspect
that actual observation will take him at least one other degree further
North. The general Course of Maria's river from hence to the extremity of
the last course taken by Sergt. pryor is N 69° W. 59 mes.
[Clark, June 8, 1805]
June 8th Saturday 1805 rained moderately all the last night & Some
this morning untill 10 oClock, I am Some what uneasy for Capt. Lewis &
party as days has now passed the time he was to have returned, I had all
the arms put in order and permited Severall men to hunt, aired and dried
our Stores &c. The rivers at this point has fallen 6 Inches Sinc our
arrival, at 10 oClock cleared away and became fair — the wind all the
morning from the S. W. & hard — The water of the South fork is of
a redish brown colour this morning the other river of a whitish colour as
usual-The mountains to the South Covered with Snow. Wind Shifted to the N
E in the evening, about 5 oClock Capt. Lewis arrived with the party much
fatigued, and inform'd me that he had assended the river about 60 miles by
Land and that the river had a bold current of about 80 or 100 yards wide
the bottoms of Gravel & mud, and may be estimated at 5 feet water in
Sholest parts
Some rain in the evening. the left hand fork rose a little.
[Lewis, June 9, 1805]
Sunday June 9th 1805. We determined to deposite at this place the large
red perogue all the heavy baggage which we could possibly do without and
some provision, salt, tools powder and Lead &c with a view to lighten
our vessels and at the same time to strengthen their crews by means of the
seven hands who have been heretofore employd. in navigating the red
perogue; accordingly we set some hands to diging a hole or cellar for the
reception of our stores. these holes in the ground or deposits are called
by the engages cashes; on enquiry I found that Cruzatte was well
acquainted this business and therefore left the management of it intirely
to him. today we examined our maps, and compared the information derived
as well from them as from the Indians and fully settled in our minds the
propryety of addopting the South fork for the Missouri, as that which it
would be most expedient for us to take. The information of Mr. Fidler
incorrect as it is strongly argued the necessity of taking the South fork,
for if he has been along the Eastern side of the rocky mountains as far as
even Latd. 47°, which I think fully as far south as he ever was in that
direction, and saw only small rivulets making down from those mountains
the presumption is very strong that those little streams do not penetrate
the rocky Mountains to such distance as would afford rational grownds for
a conjecture that they had their sources near any navigable branch of the
Columbia, and if he has seen those rivulets as far south as 47° they are
most probably the waters of some Nothern branch of the Missouri or South
fork probably the river called by the Indians Medicine River; we therefore
cannot hope by going Northwardly of this place being already in Latititude
47° 24" to find a stream between this place and the Saskashawan which dose
penetrate the Rocky mountains, and which agreeably to the information of
the Indians with rispect to the Missouri, dose possess a navigable curent
some distance in those mountains. The Indian information also argued
strongly in favour of the South fork. they informed us that the water of
the Missouri was nearly transparent at the great falls, this is the case
with the water of the South fork; that the falls lay a little to the South
of sunset from them; this is also brobable as we are only a few minutes
North of Fort Mandan and the South fork bears considerably South from
hence to the Mountains; that the falls are below the rocky mountains and
near the Nothern termineation of one range of those mountains. a range of
mountains which apear behind the S. Mountains and which appear to
terminate S. W. from this place and on this side of the unbroken chain of
the Rocky Mountains gives us hope that this part of their information is
also correct, and there is sufficient distance between this and the
mountains for many and I fear for us much too many falls. another
impression on my mind is that if the Indians had passed any stream as
large as the South fork on their way to the Missouri that they would not
have omitted mentioning it; and the South fork from it's size and
complexion of it's waters must enter the Ry. Mountains and in my opinion
penetrates them to a great distance, or els whence such an immence body of
water as it discharges; it cannot procede from the dry plains to the N. W.
of the Yellow Stone river on the East side of the Rocky Mountains for
those numerous large dry channels which we witnessed on that side as we
ascended the Missouri forbid such a conjecture; and that it should take
it's sourses to the N. W. under those mountains the travels of Mr. Fidler
fobid us to beleive. Those ideas as they occurred to me I indevoured to
impress on the minds of the party all of whom except Capt. C. being still
firm in the beleif that the N. Fork was the Missouri and that which we
ought to take; they said very cheerfully that they were ready to follow us
any wher we thought proper to direct but that they still thought that the
other was the river and that they were affraid that the South fork would
soon termineate in the mountains and leave us at a great distance from the
Columbia. Cruzatte who had been an old Missouri navigator and who from his
integrity knowledge and skill as a waterman had acquired the confidence of
every individual of the party declared it as his opinion that the N. fork
was the true genuine Missouri and could be no other. finding them so
determined in this beleif, and wishing that if we were in an error to be
able to detect it and rectify it as soon as possible it was agreed between
Capt. C. and myself that one of us should set out with a small party by
land up the South fork and continue our rout up it untill we found the
falls or reached the snowy Mountains by which means we should be enabled
to determine this question prety accurately. this expedition I prefered
undertaking as Capt. C best waterman &c. and determined to set out the
day after tomorrow; I wished to make some further observations at this
place, and as we had determined to leave our blacksmith's bellows and
tools here it was necessary to repare some of our arms, and particularly
my Airgun the main spring of which was broken, before we left this place.
these and some other preperations will necessarily detain us two perhaps
three days. I felt myself very unwell this morning and took a portion of
salts from which I feel much releif this evening. The cash being completed
I walked to it and examined it's construction. it is in a high plain about
40 yards distant from a steep bluff of the South branch on it's nothern
side; the situation a dry one which is always necessary. a place being
fixed on for a cash, a circle abut 20 inches in diameter is first
discribed, the terf or sod of this circle is carefully removed, being
taken out as entire as possible in order that it may be replaced in the
same situation when the chash is filled and secured. this circular hole is
then sunk perpendicularly to the debth of one foot, if the ground be not
firm somewhat deeper. they then begin to work it out wider as they proceed
downwards untill they get it about six or seven feet deep giving it nearly
the shape of the kettle or lower part of a large still. it's bottom is
also somewhat sunk in the center. the dementions of the cash is in
proportion to the quantity of articles intended to be deposited. as the
earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and carefully laid on a skin or
cloth and then carryed to some place where it can be thrown in such manner
as to conseal it usually into some runing stream wher it is washed away
and leaves no traces which might lead to the discovery of the cash. before
the goods are deposited they must be well dryed; a parsel of small dry
sticks are then collected and with them a floor is maid of three or four
inches thick which is then covered with some dry hay or a raw hide well
dryed; on this the articles are deposited, taking care to keep them from
touching the walls by putting other dry sticks between as you stoe away
the merchandize, when nearly full the goods are covered with a skin and
earth thrown in and well ramed untill with the addition of the turf furst
removed the whole is on a level with the serface of the ground. in this
manner dryed skins or merchandize will keep perfectly sound for several
years. the traders of the Missouri, particularly those engaged in the
trade with the Siouxs are obliged to have frequent recourse to this method
in order to avoyd being robed. most of the men are busily engaged dressing
skins for cloathing. In the evening Cruzatte gave us some music on the
violin and the men passed the evening in dancing singing &c and were
extreemly cheerfull.
[Clark, June 9, 1805]
June 9th Sunday a fair morning the wind hard from the S. W. the river
during the night fell 1 Inch, we conclude to burry a few of our heavy
articles, Some Powder & Lead provisions & a fiw Tools, in case of
accident and leave one perogue at this place, and as Soon as those things
are accomplished to assend the South fork, which appears to be more in our
Course than the N. fork the Genl. Course of the South fork for 35 miles is
S. 29° W. — that of the N. fork is N. 69° W. for 59 miles, and as we
are North of Fort mandan it is probable the most Southerley fork is the
best for us. — Capt. Lewis a little unwell to day & take Salts
&c. Send out 7 men to make a cache or hole to burry the Stores, air
out Cloathes &c. &c. finish'd the cache or Seller &c. the men
all engaged dressing Skins for their clothes, in the evening the party
amused themselves danceing and Singing Songes in the most Social manner.
had a meridian altitude which gave 47° 24' 29" took some Luner
observations which gave for Longitude ____ variation 151/2° East
[Lewis, June 10, 1805]
Monday June 10th 1805. The day being fair and fine we dryed all our
baggage and merchandize. Shields renewed the main Spring of my air gun we
have been much indebted to the ingenuity of this man on many occasions;
without having served any regular apprenticeship to any trade, he makes
his own tools principally and works extreemly well in either wood or
metal, and in this way has been extreenely servicable to us, as well as
being a good hunter and an excellent waterman. in order to guard against
accedents we thout it well to conceal some ammunicion here and accordingly
buryed a tin cannester of 4 lbs. of powder and an adequate quantity of
lead near our tent; a cannester of 6 lbs. lead and an ax in a thicket up
the S. Fork three hundred yards distant from the point. we concluded that
we still could spare more amunition for this deposit Capt. Clark was
therefore to make a further deposit in the morning, in addition to one Keg
of 20 lbs. and an adequate proportion of lead which had been laid by to be
buryed in the large Cash. we now scelected the articles to be deposited in
this cash which consisted of 2 best falling axes, one auger, a set of
plains, some files, blacksmiths bellowses and hammers Stake tongs &c.
1 Keg of flour, 2 Kegs of parched meal, 2 Kegs of Pork, 1 Keg of salt,
some chissels, a cooper's Howel, some tin cups, 2 Musquets, 3 brown bear
skins, beaver skins, horns of the bighorned anamal, a part of the men's
robes clothing and all their superfluous baggage of every discription, and
beaver traps. — we drew up the red perogue into the middle of a small
Island at the entrance of Maria's river, and secured and made her fast to
the trees to prevent the high floods from carrying her off put my brand on
several trees standing near her, and covered her with brush to shelter her
from the effects of the sun. At 3 P.M. we had a hard wind from the S. W.
which continued about an hour attended with thunder and rain. as soon as
the shower had passed over we drew out our canoes, corked, repared and
loaded them. I still feel myself somewhat unwell with the disentary, but
determined to set out in the morning up the South fork or Missouri leaving
Capt. Clark to compleat the deposit and follow me by water with the party;
accordingly gave orders to Drewyer, Joseph Fields, Gibson and Goodrich to
hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning. Sah-cah-gah,
we a, our Indian woman is very sick this evening; Capt. C. blead her. the
night was cloudy with some rain.
I saw a small bird today which I do not recollect ever having seen before.
it is about the size of the blue thrush or catbird, and it's contour not
unlike that bird. the beak is convex, moderately curved, black, smoth, and
large in proportion to its size. the legs were black, it had four toes of
the same colour on eah foot, and the nails appeared long and somewhat in
form like the tallons of the haulk, the eye black and proportionably
large. a bluish brown colour occupyed the head, neck, and back, the belly
was white; the tail was reather long in proportion and appeared to be
composed of feathers of equal length of which a part of those in the
center were white the others black. the wings were long and were also
varigated with white and black. on each side of the head from the beak
back to the neck a small black stripe extended imbrasing the eye. it
appeared to be very busy in catching insects which I presume is it's usual
food; I found the nest of this little bird, the female which differed but
little in size or plumage from the male was seting on four eggs of a pale
blue colour with small black freckles or dots. — the bee martin or
Kingbird is common to this country tho there are no bees in this country,
nor have we met with a honey bee since we passed the entrance of the Osage
river.
[Clark, June 10, 1805]
June 10th Monday 1805 a fine day dry all our articles arrange our baggage
burry Some Powder & lead in the point, Some Lead a canister of Powder
& an ax in a thicket in the point at Some distance, buried on this day
and in the large cache or whole we buried on the up land near the S. fork
1 mile up S. S. we drew up our large Perogue into the middle of a Small
Island in the North fork and covered her with bushes after makeing her
fast to the trees, branded several trees to prevent the Indians injureing
her, at 3 oClock we had hard wind from the S. W. thunder and rain for
about an hour after which we repaired & Corked the Canoes &
loadded them — Sah cah gah, we a our Indian woman verry Sick I blead
her, we deturmined to assend the South fork, and one of us, Capt. Lewis or
My self to go by land as far as the Snow mountains S. 20° W. and examine
the river & Countrey Course & to be Certain of our assending the
proper river, Capt Lewis inclines to go by land on this expedition,
according Selects 4 men George Drewyer, Gibson, Jo. Fields & S.
Gutrich to accompany him & deturmine to Set out in the morning — The
after noon or night Cloudy Some rain, river riseing a little.
[Lewis, June 11, 1805]
Tuesday June 11th 1805 This morning I felt much better, but somewhat
weakened by my disorder. at 8 A.M. I swung my pack, and set forward with
my little party. proceeded to the point where Rose River a branch Maria's
River approaches the Missouri so nearly. from this hight we discovered a
herd of Elk on the Missouri just above us to which we desended and soon
killed four of them. we butchered them and hung up the meat and skins in
view of the river in order that the party might get them. I determined to
take dinner here, but before the meal was prepared I was taken with such
violent pain in the intestens that I was unable to partake of the feast of
marrowbones. my pain still increased and towards evening was attended with
a high fever; finding myself unable to march, I determined to prepare a
camp of some willow boughs and remain all night. having brought no
medecine with me I resolved to try an experiment with some simples; and
the Choke cherry which grew abundanly in the bottom first struck my
attention; I directed a parsel of the small twigs to be geathered striped
of their leaves, cut into pieces of about 2 Inches in length and boiled in
water untill a strong black decoction of an astringent bitter tact was
produced; at sunset I took a point of this decoction and abut an hour
after repeated the dze by 10 in the evening I was entirely releived from
pain and in fact every symptom of the disorder forsook me; my fever
abated, a gentle perspiration was produced and I had a comfortable and
refreshing nights rest. Goodrich who is remarkably fond of fishing caught
several douzen fish of two different species — one about 9 inches long
of white colour round and in form and fins resembles the white chub common
to the Potomac; this fish has a smaller head than the Chubb and the mouth
is beset both above and below with a rim of fine sharp teeth; the eye
moderately large, the puple dark and the iris which is narrow is of a
yellowish brown colour, they bite at meat or grasshoppers. this is a soft
fish, not very good, tho the flesh is of a fine white colour. the other
species is precisely the form and about the size of the well known fish
called the Hickory Shad or old wife, with the exception of the teeth, a
rim of which garnish the outer edge of both the upper and lower jaw; the
tonge and pallet are also beset with long sharp teeth bending inwards, the
eye of this fish is very large, and the iris of a silvery colour and wide.
of the 1st species we had caught some few before our arrival at the
entrance of Maria's river, but of the last we had seen none untill we
reached that place and took them in Missouri above it's junction with that
river. the latter kind are much the best, and do not inhabit muddy water;
the white cat continue as high as the entrance of Maria's R, but those we
have caught above Mandans never excede 6 lbs. I beleive that there are but
few in this part of the Missouri. saw an abundance of game today even in
our short march of 9 miles.
[Clark, June 11, 1805]
June 11th Tuesday 1805 a fair morning wind from the S W. hard we burry 1
keg in the Cash & 2 Canisters of Powder in 2 seperate places all with
Lead; & in the Cash 2 axes, auger, Plains, 1 Keg flour, 2 Kegs Pork, 2
Kegs Parchd meal 1 Keg salt, files Chisel, 2 Musquits, Some tin cups,
bowel, 3 bear Skins, Beaver Skins, Horns, & parts of the mens robes
& clothes. — Beaver Traps and blacksmith's tools. Capt. Lewis Set
out at 8 oClock we delayed to repare Some guns out of order & complete
our deposit, which took us the day the evening fair and fine wind from the
N. W. after night it became cold & the wind blew hard, the Indian
woman verry Sick, I blead her which appeared to be of great Service to her
both rivers riseing fast
[Lewis, June 12, 1805]
Wednesday June 12th 1805. This morning I felt myself quite revived, took
another portion of my decoction and set out at sunrise. I now boar out
from the river in order to avoid the steep ravines of the river which
usually make out in the plain to the distance of one or two miles; after
gaining the leavel plain my couse was a litte to the West of S. W. — having
traveled about 12 miles by 9 in the morning, the sun became warm, and I
boar a little to the south in order to gain the river as well to obtain
water to allay my thirst as to kill something for breakfast; for the plain
through which we had been passing possesses no water and is so level that
we cannot approach the buffaloe within shot before they discover us and
take to flight. we arrived at the river about 10 A.M. having traveled
about 15 m. at this place there is a handsom open bottom with some
cottonwood timber, here we met with two large bear, and killed them boath
at the first fire, a circumstance which I beleive has never happend with
the party in killing the brown bear before. we dressed the bear,
breakfasted on a part of one of them and hung the meat and skins on the
trees out of the reach of the wolves. I left a note on a stick near the
river for Capt. Clark, informing him of my progress &c. — after
refreshing ourselves abut 2 hours we again ascended the bluffs and gained
the high plain; saw a great number of burrowing squirrels in the plains
today. also wolves Antelopes mule deer and immence herds of buffaloe. we
passed a ridge of land considerably higher than the adjacent plain on
either side, from this hight we had a most beatifull and picturesk view of
the Rocky mountains which wer perfectly covered with Snow and reaching
from S. E. to the N. of N. W. — they appear to be formed of several
ranges each succeeding range rising higher than the preceding one untill
the most distant appear to loose their snowey tops in the clouds; this was
an august spectacle and still rendered more formidable by the recollection
that we had them to pass. we traveled about twelve miles when we agin
struck the Missoury at a handsome little bottom of Cottonwood timber and
altho the sun had not yet set I felt myself somewhat weary being weakened
I presume by late disorder; and therfore determined to remain here during
the ballance of the day and night, having marched about 27 miles today. on
our way in the evening we had killed a buffaloe, an Antelope and three
mule deer, and taken a sufficient quantity of the best of the flesh of
these anamals for three meals, which we had brought with us. This evening
I ate very heartily and after pening the transactions of the day amused
myself catching those white fish mentioned yesterday; they are here in
great abundance I caught upwards of a douzen in a few minutes; they bit
most freely at the melt of a deer which goodrich had brought with him for
the purpose of fishing.
The narrow leafed cottonwood grows here in common with the other species
of the same tree with a broad leaf or that which has constituted the major
part of the timber of the Missouri from it's junction with the Mississippi
to this place. The narrow leafed cottonwood differs only from the other in
the shape of it's leaf and greater thickness of it's bark. the leaf is a
long oval acutely pointed, about 21/2 or 3 Inches long and from 3/4 to an
inch in width; it is thick, sometimes slightly grooved or channeled;
margin slightly serrate; the upper disk of a common green while the under
disk is of a whiteish green; the leaf is smoth. the beaver appear to be
extremely fond of this tree and even seem to scelect it from among the
other species of Cottonwood, probably from it's affording a deeper and
softer bark than the other species. — saw some sign of the Otter as
well as beaver near our camp, also a great number of tracks of the brown
bear; these fellows leave a formidable impression in the mud or sand I
measured one this evening which was eleven inches long exclusive of the
tallons and seven and 1/4 in width.
[Clark, June 12, 1805]
June 12th 1805 Wednesday last night was Clear and Cold, this morning fair
we Set out at 8 oClock & proceeded on verry well wind from the S. W.
The interpreters wife verry Sick So much So that I move her into the back
part of our Covered part of the Perogue which is Cool, her own situation
being a verry hot one in the bottom of the Perogue exposed to the Sun — Saw
emence No. of Swallows in the 1st bluff on the Lard. Side, water verry
Swift, the bluff are blackish Clay & Coal for about 80 feet. the earth
above that for 30 or 40 feet is a brownish yellow, a number of bars of
corse gravil and Stones of different Shape & Size &c. Saw a number
of rattle Snakes to day one of the men cought one by the head in Catch'g
hold of a bush on which his head lay reclined three canoes were in great
danger today one diped water, another was near turning over &c. at 2
oClock P M a fiew drops of rain I walked thro a point and killed a Buck
Elk & Deer, and we camped on the Stard Side, the Interpreters woman
verry Sick worse than She has been. I give her medison one man have a
fellon riseing on his hand one other with the Tooth ake has taken cold in
the jaw &c.
[Lewis, June 13, 1805]
Thursday June 13th 1805. This morning we set out about sunrise after
taking breakfast off our venison and fish. we again ascended the hills of
the river and gained the level country. the country through which we
passed for the first six miles tho more roling than that we had passed
yesterday might still with propryety he deemed a level country; our course
as yesterday was generally S W. the river from the place we left it
appeared to make a considerable bend to the South. from the extremity of
this roling country I overlooked a most beatifull and level plain of great
extent or at least 50 or sixty miles; in this there were infinitely more
buffaloe than I had ever before witnessed at a view. nearly in the
direction I had been travling or S. W. two curious mountains presented
themselves of square figures, the sides rising perpendicularly to the
hight of 250 feet and appeared to be formed of yellow clay; their tops
appeared to be level plains; these inaccessible hights appeared like the
ramparts of immence fortifications; I have no doubt but with very little
assistance from art they might be rendered impregnable. fearing that the
river boar to the South and that I might pass the falls if they existed
between this an the snowey mountains I altered my course nealy to the
South leaving those insulated hills to my wright and proceeded through the
plain; I sent Feels on my right and Drewyer and Gibson on my left with
orders to kill some meat and join me at the river where I should halt for
dinner. I had proceded on this course about two miles with Goodrich at
some distance behind me whin my ears were saluted with the agreeable sound
of a fall of water and advancing a little further I saw the spray arrise
above the plain like a collumn of smoke which would frequently dispear
again in an instant caused I presume by the wind which blew pretty hard
from the S. W. I did not however loose my direction to this point which
soon began to make a roaring too tremendious to be mistaken for any cause
short of the great falls of the Missouri. here I arrived about 12 OClock
having traveled by estimate about 15 Miles. I hurryed down the hill which
was about 200 feet high and difficult of access, to gaze on this sublimely
grand specticle. I took my position on the top of some rocks about 20 feet
high opposite the center of the falls. this chain of rocks appear once to
have formed a part of those over which the waters tumbled, but in the
course of time has been seperated from it to the distance of 150 yards
lying prarrallel to it and forming a butment against which the water after
falling over the precipice beats with great fury; this barrier extends on
the right to the perpendicular clift which forms that board of the river
but to the distance of 120 yards next to the clift it is but a few feet
above the level of the water, and here the water in very high tides
appears to pass in a channel of 40 yds. next to the higher part of the
ledg of rocks; on the left it extends within 80 or ninty yards of the
lard. Clift which is also perpendicular; between this abrupt extremity of
the ledge of rocks and the perpendicular bluff the whole body of water
passes with incredible swiftness. immediately at the cascade the river is
about 300 yds. wide; about ninty or a hundred yards of this next the Lard.
bluff is a smoth even sheet of water falling over a precipice of at least
eighty feet, the remaining part of about 200 yards on my right formes the
grandest sight I ever beheld, the hight of the fall is the same of the
other but the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below receives the
water in it's passage down and brakes it into a perfect white foam which
assumes a thousand forms in a moment sometimes flying up in jets of
sparkling foam to the hight of fifteen or twenty feet and are scarcely
formed before large roling bodies of the same beaten and foaming water is
thrown over and conceals them. in short the rocks seem to be most happily
fixed to present a sheet of the whitest beaten froath for 200 yards in
length and about 80 feet perpendicular. the water after decending strikes
against the butment before mentioned or that on which I stand and seems to
reverberate and being met by the more impetuous courant they role and
swell into half formed billows of great hight which rise and again
disappear in an instant. this butment of rock defends a handsom little
bottom of about three acres which is deversified and agreeably shaded with
some cottonwood trees; in the lower extremity of the bottom there is a
very thick grove of the same kind of trees which are small, in this wood
there are several Indian lodges formed of sticks. a few small cedar grow
near the ledge of rocks where I rest. below the point of these rocks at a
small distance the river is divided by a large rock which rises several
feet above the water, and extends downwards with the stream for about 20
yards. about a mile before the water arrives at the pitch it decends very
rappidly, and is confined on the Lard. side by a perpendicular clift of
about 100 feet, on Stard. side it is also perpendicular for about three
hundred yards above the pitch where it is then broken by the discharge of
a small ravine, down which the buffaloe have a large beaten road to the
water, for it is but in very few places that these anamals can obtain
water near this place owing to the steep and inaccessible banks. I see
several skelletons of the buffaloe lying in the edge of the water near the
Stard. bluff which I presume have been swept down by the current and
precipitated over this tremendious fall. about 300 yards below me there is
another butment of solid rock with a perpendicular face and abot 60 feet
high which projects from the Stard. side at right angles to the distance
of 134 yds. and terminates the lower part nearly of the bottom before
mentioned; there being a passage arround the end of this butment between
it and the river of about 20 yardes; here the river again assumes it's
usual width soon spreading to near 300 yards but still continues it's
rappidity. from the reflection of the sun on the spray or mist which
arrises from these falls there is a beatifull rainbow produced which adds
not a little to the beauty of this majestically grand senery. after
wrighting this imperfect discription I again viewed the falls and was so
much disgusted with the imperfect idea which it conveyed of the scene that
I determined to draw my pen across it and begin agin, but then reflected
that I could not perhaps succeed better than pening the first impressions
of the mind; I wished for the pencil of Salvator Rosa or the pen of
Thompson, that I might be enabled to give to the enlightened world some
just idea of this truly magnifficent and sublimely grand object, which has
from the commencement of time been concealed from the view of civilized
man; but this was fruitless and vain. I most sincerely regreted that I had
not brought a crimee obscura with me by the assistance of which even I
could have hoped to have done better but alas this was also out of my
reach; I therefore with the assistance of my pen only indeavoured to
traces some of the stronger features of this seen by the assistance of
which and my recollection aided by some able pencil I hope still to give
to the world some faint idea of an object which at this moment fills me
with such pleasure and astonishment, and which of it's kind I will venture
to ascert is second to but one in the known world. I retired to the shade
of a tree where I determined to fix my camp for the present and dispatch a
man in the morning to inform Capt. C. and the party of my success in
finding the falls and settle in their minds all further doubts as to the
Missouri. the hunters now arrived loaded with excellent buffaloe meat and
informed me that they had killed three very fat cows about 3/4 of a mile
hence. I directed them after they had refreshed themselves to go back and
butcher them and bring another load of meat each to our camp determining
to employ those who remained with me in drying meat for the party against
their arrival. in about 2 hours or at 4 OClock P.M. they set out on this
duty, and I walked down the river about three miles to discover if
possible some place to which the canoes might arrive or at which they
might be drawn on shore in order to be taken by land above the falls; but
returned without effecting either of these objects; the river was one
continued sene of rappids and cascades which I readily perceived could not
be encountered with our canoes, and the Clifts still retained their
perpendicular structure and were from 150 to 200 feet high; in short the
river appears here to have woarn a channel in the process of time through
a solid rock. on my return I found the party at camp; they had butchered
the buffaloe and brought in some more meat as I had directed. Goodrich had
caught half a douzen very fine trout and a number of both species of the
white fish. these trout are from sixteen to twenty three inches in length,
precisely resemble our mountain or speckled trout in form and the position
of their fins, but the specks on these are of a deep black instead of the
red or goald colour of those common to the U. States. these are furnished
long sharp teeth on the pallet and tongue and have generally a small dash
of red on each side behind the front ventral fins; the flesh is of a pale
yellowish red, or when in good order, of a rose red.
I am induced to believe that the Brown, the white and the Grizly bear of
this country are the same species only differing in colour from age or
more probably from the same natural cause that many other anamals of the
same family differ in colour. one of those which we killed yesterday was
of a creemcoloured white while the other in company with it was of the
common bey or rdish brown, which seems to be the most usual colour of
them. the white one appeared from it's tallons and teath to be the
youngest; it was smaller than the other, and although a monstrous beast we
supposed that it had not yet attained it's growth and that it was a little
upwards of two years old. the young cubs which we have killed have always
been of a brownish white, but none of them as white as that we killed
yesterday. one other that we killed sometime since which I mentioned sunk
under some driftwood and was lost, had a white stripe or list of about
eleven inches wide entirely arround his body just behind the shoalders,
and was much darker than these bear usually are. the grizly bear we have
never yet seen. I have seen their tallons in possession of the Indians and
from their form I am perswaded if there is any difference between this
species and the brown or white bear it is very inconsiderable. There is no
such anamal as a black bear in this open country or of that species
generally denominated the black bear
my fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe's humps, tongues and
marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good appetite;
the last is not considered the least of the luxuries.
[Clark, June 13, 1805]
June 13th Thursday 1805 a fair morning, Some dew this morning the Indian
woman Verry sick I gave her a doste of Salts. We Set out early, at a mile
& 1/2 passed a Small rapid Stream on the Lard Side which heads in a
mountain to the S. E 12 or 15 miles, which at this time covered with Snow,
we call this stream Snow river, as it is the conveyance of the melted snow
from that mountain at present. numbers of gees & goslings, the gees
cannot fly at this Season — goose berries are ripe and in great
abundance, the yellow Current is also Common, not yet ripe Killed a
buffalow & Campd on the Lard Side near an old Indian fortified campy
one man Sick & 3 with Swellings, the Indian woman verry Sick. Killed a
goat & fraser 2 Buffalow
The river verry rapid maney Sholes great nos of large Stones passed Some
bluffs or low cliffts of Slate to day
[Lewis, June 14, 1805]
Friday June 14th 1805. This morning at sunrise I dispatched Joseph Fields
with a letter to Capt. Clark and ordered him to keep sufficiently near the
river to observe it's situation in order that he might be enabled to give
Capt. Clark an idea of the point at which it would be best to halt to make
our portage. I set one man about preparing a saffold and collecting wood
to dry the meat Sent the others to bring in the ballance of the buffaloe
meat, or at least the part which the wolves had left us, for those fellows
are ever at hand and ready to partake with us the moment we kill a
buffaloe; and there is no means of puting the meat out of their reach in
those plains; the two men shortly after returned with the meat and
informed me that the wolves had devoured the greater part of the meat.
about ten OClock this morning while the men were engaged with the meat I
took my Gun and espontoon and thought I would walk a few miles and see
where the rappids termineated above, and return to dinner. accordingly I
set out and proceeded up the river about S. W. after passing one continued
rappid and three small cascades of abut for or five feet each at the
distance of about five miles I arrived at a fall of about 19 feet; the
river is hereabout 400 yds. wide. this pitch which I called the crooked
falls occupys about three fourths of the width of the river, commencing on
the South side, extends obliquly upwards about 150 yds. then forming an
accute angle extends downwards nearly to the commencement of four small
Islands lying near the N. shore; among these Islands and between them and
the lower extremity of the perpendicular pitch being a distance of 100
yards or upwards, the water glides down the side of a sloping rock with a
volocity almost equal to that of it's perpendicular decent. just above
this rappid the river makes a suddon bend to the right or Northwardly. I
should have returned from hence but hearing a tremendious roaring above me
I continued my rout across the point of a hill a few hundred yards further
and was again presented by one of the most beatifull objects in nature, a
cascade of about fifty feet perpendicular streching at rightangles across
the river from side to side to the distance of at least a quarter of a
mile. here the river pitches over a shelving rock, with an edge as regular
and as streight as if formed by art, without a nich or brake in it; the
water decends in one even and uninterupted sheet to the bottom wher
dashing against the rocky bottom rises into foaming billows of great hight
and rappidly glides away, hising flashing and sparkling as it departs the
sprey rises from one extremity to the other to 50 f. I now thought that if
a skillfull painter had been asked to make a beautifull cascade that he
would most probably have pesented the precise immage of this one; nor
could I for some time determine on which of those two great cataracts to
bestoe the palm, on this or that which I had discovered yesterday; at
length I determined between these two great rivals for glory that this was
pleasingly beautifull, while the other was sublimely grand. I had scarcely
infixed my eyes from this pleasing object before I discovered another fall
above at the distance of half a mile; thus invited I did not once think of
returning but hurried thither to amuse myself with this newly discovered
object. I found this to be a cascade of about 14 feet possessing a
perpendicular pitch of about 6 feet. this was tolerably regular streching
across the river from bank to bank where it was about a quarter of a mile
wide; in any other neighbourhood but this, such a cascade would probably
be extoled for it's beaty and magnifficence, but here I passed it by with
but little attention, determining as I had proceded so far to continue my
rout to the head of the rappids if it should even detain me all night. at
every rappid cateract and cascade I discovered that the bluffs grew lower
or that the bed of the river rose nearer to a level with the plains. still
pursuing the river with it's course about S. W. passing a continued sene
of rappids and small cascades, at the distance of 21/2 miles I arrived at
another cataract of 26 feet. this is not immediately perpendicular, a rock
about 1/3 of it's decent seems to protrude to a small distance and
receives the water in it's passage downwards and gives a curve to the
water tho it falls mostly with a regular and smoth sheet. the river is
near six hundred yards wide at this place, a beatifull level plain on the
S. side only a few feet above the level of the pitch; on the N. side where
I am the country is More broken and immediately behind me near the river a
high hill. below this fall at a little distance a beatifull little Island
well timbered is situated about the middle of the river. in this Island on
a Cottonwood tree an Eagle has placed her nest; a more inaccessable spot I
beleive she could not have found; for neither man nor beast dare pass
those gulphs which seperate her little domain from the shores. the water
is also broken in such manner as it decends over this pitch that the mist
or sprey rises to a considerable hight. this fall is certainly much the
greatest I ever behald except those two which I have mentioned below. it
is incomparably a geater cataract and a more noble interesting object than
the celibrated falls of Potomac or Soolkiln &c. just above this is
another cascade of about 5 feet, above which the water as far as I could
see began to abate of it's valosity, and I therefore determined to ascend
the hill behind me which promised a fine prospect of the adjacent country,
nor was I disappointed on my arrival at it's summit. from hence I
overlooked a most beatifull and extensive plain reaching from the river to
the base of the Snowclad mountains to the S. and S. West; I also observed
the missoury streching it's meandering course to the South through this
plain to a great distance filled to it's even and grassey brim; another
large river flowed in on it's Western side about four miles above me and
extended itself though a level and fertile valley of 3 miles in width a
great distance to the N. W. rendered more conspicuous by the timber which
garnished it's borders. in these plains and more particularly in the
valley just below me immence herds of buffaloe are feeding. the missouri
just above this hill makes a bend to the South where it lies a smoth even
and unruffled sheet of water of nearly a mile in width bearing on it's
watry bosome vast flocks of geese which feed at pleasure in the
delightfull pasture on either border. the young geese are now completely
feathered except the wings which both in the young and old are yet
deficient. after feasting my eyes on this ravishing prospect and resting
myself a few minutes I determined to procede as far as the river which I
saw discharge itself on the West side of the Missouri convinced that it
was the river which the Indians call medicine river and which they
informed us fell into the Missouri just above the falls I decended the
hills and directed my course to the bend of the Missouri near which there
was a herd of at least a thousand buffaloe; here I thought it would be
well to kill a buffaloe and leave him untill my return from the river and
if I then found that I had not time to get back to camp this evening to
remain all night here there being a few sticks of drift wood lying along
shore which would answer for my fire, and a few sattering cottonwood trees
a few hundred yards below which would afford me at least a semblance of a
shelter. under this impression I scelected a fat buffaloe and shot him
very well, through the lungs; while I was gazeing attentively on the poor
anamal discharging blood in streams from his mouth and nostrils, expecting
him to fall every instant, and having entirely forgotton to reload my
rifle, a large white, or reather brown bear, had perceived and crept on me
within 20 steps before I discovered him; in the first moment I drew up my
gun to shoot, but at the same instant recolected that she was not loaded
and that he was too near for me to hope to perform this opperation before
he reached me, as he was then briskly advancing on me; it was an open
level plain, not a bush within miles nor a tree within less than three
hundred yards of me; the river bank was sloping and not more than three
feet above the level of the water; in short there was no place by means of
which I could conceal myself from this monster untill I could charge my
rifle; in this situation I thought of retreating in a brisk walk as fast
as he was advancing untill I could reach a tree about 300 yards below me,
but I had no sooner terned myself about but he pitched at me, open mouthed
and full speed, I ran about 80 yards and found he gained on me fast, I
then run into the water the idea struk me to get into the water to such
debth that I could stand and he would be obliged to swim, and that I could
in that situation defend myself with my espontoon; accordingly I ran
haistily into the water about waist deep, and faced about and presented
the point of my espontoon, at this instant he arrived at the edge of the
water within about 20 feet of me; the moment I put myself in this attitude
of defence he sudonly wheeled about as if frightened, declined the combat
on such unequal grounds, and retreated with quite as great precipitation
as he had just before pursued me. as soon as I saw him run off in that
manner I returned to the shore and charged my gun, which I had still
retained in my hand throughout this curious adventure. I saw him run
through the level open plain about three miles, till he disappeared in the
woods on medecine river; during the whole of this distance he ran at full
speed, sometimes appearing to look behind him as if he expected pursuit. I
now began to reflect on this novil occurrence and indeavoured to account
for this sudden retreat of the bear. I at first thought that perhaps he
had not smelt me before he arrived at the waters edge so near me, but I
then reflected that he had pursued me for about 80 or 90 yards before I
took the water and on examination saw the grownd toarn with his tallons
immediately on the impression of my steps; and the cause of his allarm
still remains with me misterious and unaccountable. — so it was and I
feelt myself not a little gratifyed that he had declined the combat. My
gun reloaded I felt confidence once more in my strength; and determined
not to be thwarted in my design of visiting medicine river, but determined
never again to suffer my peice to be longer empty than the time she
necessarily required to charge her. I passed through the plain nearly in
the direction which the bear had run to medecine river, found it a
handsome stream, about 200 yds. wide with a gentle current, apparently
deep, it's waters clear, and banks which were formed principally of
darkbrown and blue clay were about the hight of those of the Missouri or
from 3 to 5 feet; yet they had not the appearance of ever being overflown,
a circumstance, which I did not expect so immediately in the neighbourhood
of the mountains, from whence I should have supposed, that sudden and
immence torrants would issue at certain seasons of the year; but the
reverse is absolutely the case. I am therefore compelled to beleive that
the snowey mountains yeald their warters slowly, being partially effected
every day by the influence of the sun only, and never suddonly melted down
by haisty showers of rain.
having examined Medecine river I now determined to return, having by my
estimate about 12 miles to walk. I looked at my watch and found it was
half after six P.M. — in returning through the level bottom of
Medecine river and about 200 yards distant from the Missouri, my direction
led me directly to an anamal that I at first supposed was a wolf; but on
nearer approach or about sixty paces distant I discovered that it was not,
it's colour was a brownish yellow; it was standing near it's burrow, and
when I approached it thus nearly, it couched itself down like a cat
looking immediately at me as if it designed to spring on me. I took aim at
it and fired, it instantly disappeared in it's burrow; I loaded my gun and
exmined the place which was dusty and saw the track from which I am still
further convinced that it was of the tiger kind. whether I struck it or
not I could not determine, but I am almost confident that I did; my gun is
true and I had a steady rest by means of my espontoon, which I have found
very serviceable to me in this way in the open plains. It now seemed to me
that all the beasts of the neighbourhood had made a league to distroy me,
or that some fortune was disposed to amuse herself at my expence, for I
had not proceded more than three hundred yards from the burrow of this
tyger cat, before three bull buffaloe, which wer feeding with a large herd
about half a mile from me on my left, seperated from the herd and ran full
speed towards me, I thought at least to give them some amusement and
altered my direction to meet them; when they arrived within a hundred
yards they mad a halt, took a good view of me and retreated with
precipitation. I then continued my rout homewards passed the buffaloe
which I had killed, but did not think it prudent to remain all night at
this place which really from the succession of curious adventures wore the
impression on my mind of inchantment; at sometimes for a moment I thought
it might be a dream, but the prickley pears which pierced my feet very
severely once in a while, particularly after it grew dark, convinced me
that I was really awake, and that it was necessary to make the best of my
way to camp. it was sometime after dark before I returned to the party; I
found them extremely uneasy for my safety; they had formed a thousand
conjectures, all of which equally forboding my death, which they had so
far settled among them, that they had already agreed on the rout which
each should take in the morning to surch for me. I felt myself much
fortiegued, but eat a hearty supper and took a good night's rest. — the
weather being warm I had left my leather over shirt and had woarn only a
yellow flannin one.
[Clark, June 14, 1805]
June 14th Friday 1805 a fine morning, the Indian woman complaining all
night & excessively bad this morning — her case is Somewhat
dangerous — two men with the Tooth ake 2 with Turners, & one man
with a Tumor & Slight fever passed the Camp Capt. Lewis made the 1st
night at which place he had left part of two bear their skins &c three
men with Turners went on shore and Staycd out all night one of them killed
2 buffalow, a part of which we made use of for brackfast, the Current
excesevely rapid more So as we assend we find great difficuelty in getting
the Perogue & Canoes up in Safety, Canoes take in water frequently, at
4 oClock this evening Jo. Fields returned from Capt. Lewis with a letter
for me, Capt Lewis dates his letter from the Great falls of the Missouri,
which Fields informs me is about 20 miles in advance & about 10 miles
above the place I left the river the time I was up last week Capt. L.
informs that those falls; in part answer the discription given of them by
the Indians, much higher the Eagles nest which they describe is there,
from those Signs he is Convinced of this being the river the Indians call
the Missouri, he intends examineing the river above untill my arrival at a
point from which we can make a portage, which he is apprehensive will be
at least 5 miles & both above & below there is Several Small
pitches, & Swift troubled water we made only 10 miles to day and
Camped on the Lard Side, much hard Slate in the Clifts & but a Small
quantity of timber.
[Lewis, June 15, 1805]
Saturday June 15th 1805. This morning the men again were sent to bring in
some more meat which Drewyer had killed yesterday, and continued the
opperation of drying it. I amused myself in fishing, and sleeping away the
fortiegues of yesterday. I caught a number of very fine trout which I made
Goodrich dry; goodrich also caught about two douzen and several small cat
of a yellow colour which would weigh about 4 lbs. the tails was seperated
with a deep angular nitch like that of the white cat of the missouri from
which indeed they differed only in colour. when I awoke from my sleep
today I found a large rattlesnake coiled on the leaning trunk of a tree
under the shade of which I had been lying at the distance of about ten
feet from him. I killed the snake and found that he had 176 scuta on the
abdomen and i'7 half formed scuta on the tale; it was of the same kinde
which I had frequently seen before; they do not differ in their colours
from the rattle snake common to the middle attlantic states, but
considerably in the form and figures of those colours. This evening after
dark Joseph Fields returned and informed me that Capt Clark had arrived
with the party at the foot of a rappid about 5 miles below which he did
not think proper to ascend and would wait my arrival there. I had
discovered from my journey yesterday that a portage on this side of the
river will be attended by much difficulty in consequence of several deep
ravines which intersect the plains nearly at right angles with the river
to a considerable distance, while the South side appears to be a
delighfull smoth unbroken plain; the bearings of the river also make it
pobable that the portage will be shorter on that side than on this. — I
directed Fields to return early in the morning to Capt. C. and request him
to send up a party of men for the dryed meat which we had made. I finde a
very heavy due on the grass about my camp every morning which no doubt
procedes from the mist of the falls, as it takes place no where in the
plains nor on the river except here.
[Clark, June 15, 1805]
June the 15th Satturday 1805 a fair morning and worm, we Set out at the
usial time and proceeded on with great dificuelty as the river is more
rapid we can hear the falls this morning verry distinctly — our Indian
woman Sick &low Spirited I gave her the bark & apply it exteranaly
to her region which revived her much. the curt. excessively rapid and
dificuelt to assend great numbers of dangerous places, and the fatigue
which we have to encounter is incretiatable the men in the water from
morning untill night hauling the Cord & boats walking on Sharp rocks
and round Sliperery Stones which alternately cut their feet & throw
them down, not with Standing all this dificuelty they go with great
chearfulness, aded to those dificuelties the rattle Snakes inumerable
& require great caution to prevent being bitten. — we passed a
Small river on the Lard Side about 30 yards wide verry rapid which heads
in the mountains to the S. E. I Sent up this river 5 miles, it has Some
timber in its bottoms and a fall of 15 feet at one place, above this river
the bluffs are of red earth mixed with Stratums of black Stone, below this
little river, we pass a white clay which mixes with water like flour in
every respect, the Indian woman much wors this evening, She will not take
any medison, her husband petetions to return &c., river more rapid
late in the evening we arrived at a rapid which appeared So bad that I did
not think it prudent to attempt passing of it this evening as it was now
late, we Saw great numbers of Gees Ducks, Crows Blackbirds &c Geese
& Ducks with their young. after Landing I detached Joseph Fields to
Capt. Lewis to let him know where I was &c river rises a little this
evening we could not get a Sufficency of wood for our use
[Lewis, June 16, 1805]
Sunday June 16th 1805 J. Fields set out early on his return to the lower
camp, at noon the men arrived and shortly after I set out with them to
rejoin the party. we took with us the dryed meat consisting of about 600
lbs. and several douzen of dryed trout. about 2 P.M. I reached the camp
found the Indian woman extreemly ill and much reduced by her
indisposition. this gave me some concern as well for the poor object
herself, then with a young child in her arms, as from the consideration of
her being our only dependence for a friendly negociation with the Snake
Indians on whom we depend for horses to assist us in our portage from the
Missouri to the columbia River. I now informed Capt. C. of my discoveries
with rispect to the most proper side for our portage, and of it's great
length, which I could not estimate at less than 16 miles. Capt. C. had
already sent two men this morning to examine the country on the S. side of
the river; he now passed over with the party to that side and fixed a camp
about a mile blow the entrance of a Creek where there was a sufficient
quantity of wood for fuel, an article which can be obtained but in few
places in this neighbourhood. after discharging the loads four of the
canoes were sent back to me, which by means of strong ropes we hawled
above the rappid and passed over to the south side from whence the water
not being rappid we can readily convey them into the creek by means of
which we hope to get them on the high plain with more ease. one of the
small canoes was left below this rappid in order to pass and repass the
river for the purpose of hunting as well as to procure the water of the
Sulpher spring, the virtues of which I now resolved to try on the Indian
woman. this spring is situated about 200 yards from the Missouri on the N.
E. side nearly opposite to the entrance of a large creek; it discharges
itself into the Missouri over a precepice of rock about 25 feet, forming a
pretty little ____ the water is as transparent as possible strongly
impregnated with sulpher, and I suspect Iron also, as the colour of the
hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicate the existence of that
metal. the water to all appearance is precisely similar to that of
Bowyer's Sulpher spring in Virginia. Capt. Clark determined to set out in
the morning to examine and survey the portage, and discover the best rout.
as the distance was too great to think of transporting the canoes and
baggage on the men's shoulders, we scelected six men, and ordered them to
look out some timber this evening, and early in the morning to set about
making a parsel of truck wheels in order to convey our canoes and baggage
over the portage. we determined to leave the white perogue at this place,
and substitute the Iron boat, and also to make a further deposit of a part
of our stores. in the evening the men who had been sent out to examine the
country and made a very unfavourable report. they informed us that the
creek just above us and two deep ravenes still higher up cut the plain
between the river and mountain in such a manner, that in their opinions a
portage for the canoes on this side was impracticable. good or bad we must
make the portage. notwithstanding this report I am still convinced from
the view I had of the country the day before yesterday that a good portage
may be had on this side at least much better than on the other, and much
nearer also. I found that two dozes of barks and opium which I had given
her since my arrival had produced an alteration in her pulse for the
better; they were now much fuller and more regular. I caused her to drink
the mineral water altogether. wen I first came down I found that her pulse
were scarcely perceptible, very quick frequently irregular and attended
with strong nervous symptoms, that of the twitching of the fingers and
leaders of the arm; now the pulse had become regular much fuller and a
gentle perspiration had taken place; the nervous symptoms have also in a
great measure abated, and she feels herself much freeer from pain. she
complains principally of the lower region of the abdomen, I therefore
continued the cataplasms of barks and laudnumn which had been previously
used by my friend Capt Clark. I beleive her disorder originated
principally from an obstruction of the mensis in consequence of taking
could. — I determined to remain at this camp in order to make some
celestial observations, restore the sick woman, and have all matters in a
state of readiness to commence the portage immediately on the return of
Capt. Clark, who now furnished me with the dayly occurrences which had
taken place with himself and party since our seperation which I here enter
in his own words.
[Clark, June 16, 1805]
June 16th of Sunday 1805 Some rain last night a cloudy morning wind hard
from the S. W. we Set out passed the rapid by double manning the Perogue
& Canoes and halted at 1/4 of a mile to examine the rapids above,
which I found to be an Continued Cascade for as far as could be Seen which
was about 2 miles, I walked up on the Lard Side as high as a large Creek,
which falls in on the Lard. Side one mile above & opposit a large
Sulpher Spring which falls over the rocks on the Std. Side the wind rored
from the S. W. hard & Some rain, at about 2 oClock Capt Lewis joined
me from the falls 5 miles distant, & infd. that the Lard Side was the
best portage I despatched 2 men this morning on the Lard. Side to examine
the portage. — the Indian woman verry bad, & will take no medisin
what ever, untill her husband finding her out of her Senses, easyly
provailed on her to take medison, if She dies it will be the fault of her
husband as I am now convinced-. we crossed the river after part of the day
and formed a Camp from which we intended to make the first portage, Capt.
Lewis stayed on the Std Side to direct the Canoes over the first riffle 4
of them passed this evening the others unloaded & part of the Perogue
Loading taken out — I deturmined to examine & Survey the Portage
find a leavel rout if possible — The 2 men despatched to examine the
Portage gave an unfavourable account of the Countrey, reporting that the
Creek & 2 deep reveens cut the Prarie in such a manner between the
river and mountain as to render a portage in their oppinion for the Canoes
impossible — we Selected 6 men to make wheels & to draw the Canoes
on as the distance was probably too far for to be caried on the mens
Sholders
[Lewis, June 17, 1805]
Monday June 17th 1805. Capt. Clark set out early this morning with five
men to examine the country and survey the river and portage as had been
concerted last evening. I set six men at work to pepare four sets of truck
wheels with couplings, toungs and bodies, that they might either be used
without the bodies for transporting our canoes, or with them in
transporting our baggage I found that the Elk skins I had prepared for my
boat were insufficient to compleat her, some of them having become
dammaged by the weather and being frequently wet; to make up this
deficiency I sent out two hunters this morning to hunt Elk; the ballance
of the party I employed first in unloading the white perogue, which we
intend leaving at this place, and bring the whole of our baggage together
and arranging it in proper order near our camp. this duty being compleated
I employed them in taking five of the small canoes up the creek which we
now call portage creek about 13/4 miles; here I had them taken out and
lyed in the sun to dry. from this place ther is a gradual ascent to the
top of the high plain to which we can now take them with ease; the bluffs
of this creek below and those of the river above it's entrance are so
steep that it would be almost impracticable to have gotten them on the
plain. we found much difficulty in geting the canoes up this creek to the
distance we were compelled to take them, in consequence of the rappids and
rocks which obstruct the channel of the creek. one of the canoes overset
and was very near injuring 2 men essencially. just above the canoes the
creek has a perpendicular fall of 5 feet and the cliffts again become very
steep and high. we were fortunate enough to find one cottonwood tree just
below the entrance of portage creek that was large enough to make our
carrage wheels about 22 Inches in diameter; fortunate I say because I do
not beleive that we could find another of the same size perfectly sound
within 20 miles of us. the cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in
the other parts of the work is extreemly illy calculated for it being soft
and brittle. we have made two axeltrees of the mast of the white peroge,
which I hope will answer tolerably well tho it is reather small. The
Indian woman much better today, I have still continued the same course of
medecine; she is free from pain clear of fever, her pulse regular, and
eats as heartily as I am willing to permit her of broiled buffaloe well
seasoned with pepper and salt and rich soope of the same meat; I think
therefore that there is every rational hope of her recovery. saw a vast
number of buffaloe feeding in every direction arround us in the plains,
others coming down in large herds to water at the river; the fragments of
many carcases of these poor anamals daily pass down the river, thus
mangled I pesume in decending those immence cataracts above us. as the
buffaloe generally go in large herds to water and the passages to the
river about the falls are narrow and steep the hinder part of the herd
press those in front out of their debth and the water instatly takes them
over the cataracts where they are instantly crushed to death without the
possibility of escaping. in this manner I have seen ten or a douzen
disappear in a few minutes. their mangled carcases ly along the shores
below the falls in considerable quantities and afford fine amusement for
the bear wolves and birds of prey; this may be one reason and I think not
a bad one either that the bear are so tenatious of their right of soil in
this neighbourhood.
[Clark, June 17, 1805]
June 17th Monday 1805 a fine morning wind as usial Capt. Lewis with the
party unloaded the Perogue & he determined to keep the party employed
in getting the loading to the Creek about 1 mile over a low hill in my
absence on the Portage.
I Set out with 5 men at 8 oClock, and proceeded on up the Creek Some
distance to examine that & if possable assend that Suffcently high,
that a Streight Cours to the mouth of Medison river would head the 2
reveins, the Creek I found Confined rapid and Shallow generalley
Monday 17th of June passed through an open roleing Prarie, So as to head
the two reveins after heading two we Stand our Course So as to Strike the
river below the great pitch on our Course to the river Crossed a Deep
rivein near its mouth with Steep Clifts this rivein had running water
which was very fine, the river at this place is narrow & Confined in
perpindicular clifts of 170 feet from the tops of those Clifts the
Countrey rises with a Steep assent for about 250 feet more we proceeded up
the river passing a Sucession of rapids & Cascades to the Falls, which
we had herd for Several miles makeing a dedly Sound, I beheld those
Cateracts with astonishment the whole of the water of this great river
Confined in a Channel of 280 yards and pitching over a rock of 97 feet 3/4
of an, from the foot of the falls arrises a Continued mist which is
extended for 150 yds. down & to near the top of the Clifts on L Sd.
the river below is Confined a narrow Chanl. Of 93 yards haveing a Small
bottom of timber on the Stard Side which is definded by a rock, rangeing
Cross wise the river a little below the Shoot, a Short distance below this
Cataract a large rock divides the Stream, I in assendending the Clifts to
take the hith of the fall was near Slipping into the water, at which place
I must have been Sucked under in an instant, and with deficuelty and great
risque I assended again, and decended the Clift lower down (but few places
Can be descended to the river) and took the hight with as much accuricy as
possible with a Spirit Leavels &c. dined at a fine Spring 200 yards
below the pitch near which place 4 Cotton willow trees grew. on one of
them I marked my name the date, and hight of the falls, — we then
proceeded up on the river passing a Continued Cascade & rapid to a
fall of 19 feet at 4 Small Islands, this fall is diaguanally across the
river from the Lard Side, forming an angle of 3/4 of the width from the
Lard. from which Side it pitches for 2/3 of that distance. on the Stard
Side is a rapid decline — below this Shoot a Deep revein falls in
which we Camped for the night which was Cold (The mountains in every
derection has Snow on Them) The plain to our left is leavel we Saw one
Bear & inumerable numbers of Buffalow, I Saw 2 herds of those animals
watering immediately above a considerable rapid, they decended by a narrow
pass to the bottom Small, the rier forced those forwd into the water Some
of which was taken down in an instant, and Seen no more others made Shore
with difficuelty, I beheld 40 or 50 of those Swimming at the Same time
those animals in this way are lost and accounts for the number of buffalow
carcases below the rapids
[Lewis, June 18, 1805]
Tuesday June 18th 1805. This morning I employed all hands in drawing the
perogue on shore in a thick bunch of willow bushes some little distance
below our camp; fastened her securely, drove out the plugs of the gage
holes of her bottom and covered her with bushes and driftwood to shelter
her from the sun. I now scelected a place for a cash and set tree men at
work to complete it, and employed all others except those about the
waggons, in overhawling airing and repacking our indian goods ammunition,
provision and stores of every discription which required inspection.
examined the frame of my Iron boat and found all the parts complete except
one screw, which the ingenuity of Sheilds can readily replace, a resource
which we have very frequent occasion for. about 12 O'Clk. the hunters
returned; they had killed 10 deer but no Elk. I begin to fear that we
shall have some difficulty in procuring skins for the boat. I wold prefer
those of the Elk because I beleive them more durable and strong than those
of the Buffaloe, and that they will not shrink so much in drying. we saw a
herd of buffaloe come down to water at the sulpher spring this evening, I
dispatched some hunters to kill some of them, and a man also for a cask of
mineral water. the hunters soon killed two of them in fine order and
returned with a good quantity of the flesh, having left the remainder in a
situation that it will not spoil provided the wolves do not visit it. The
waggons are completed this evening, and appear as if they would answer the
purpose very well if the axetrees prove sufficiently strong. the wind blew
violently this evening, as they frequently do in this open country where
there is not a tree to brake or oppose their force. The Indian woman is
recovering fast she set up the greater part of the day and walked out for
the fist time since she arrived here; she eats hartily and is free from
fever or pain. I continue same course of medecine and regimen except that
I added one doze of 15 drops of the oil of vitriol today about noon.
There is a species of goosberry which grows very common about here in open
situations among the rocks on the sides of the clifts. they are now ripe
of a pale red colour, about the size of a common goosberry. and like it is
an ovate pericarp of soft pulp invelloping a number of smal whitish
coloured seeds; the pulp is a yelloish slimy muselaginous substance of a
sweetish and pinelike tast, not agreeable to me. the surface of the berry
is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and the frut altho ripe
retains it's withered corollar. this shrub seldom rises more than two feet
high and is much branched, the leaves resemble those of the common
goosberry only not so large; it has no thorns. the berry is supported by
seperate peduncles or footstalks of half an inch in length. immence
quantities of small grasshoppers of a brown colour in the plains, they no
doubt contribute much to keep the grass as low as we find it which is not
generally more than three inches, the grass is a narrow leaf, soft, and
affords a fine pasture for the Buffaloe.
[Clark, June 18, 1805]
June 18th Tuesday 1805 we Set out early and arrived at the second great
Cataract at about 200 yds above the last of 19 feet pitch — this is
one of the grandest views in nature and by far exceeds any thing I ever
Saw, the Missouri falling over a Shelveing rock for 47 feet 8 Inches with
a Cascade &c of 14 feet 7 Inches above the Shoot for a 1/4 mile I
decended the Clift below this Cateract with ease measured the hight of the
purpendicular fall of 47 feet 8 Inches at which place the river is 473
yards wide as also the hight of the Cascade &c. a continuel mist quite
across this fall* after which we proceeded on up the river a little more
than a mile to the largest fountain or Spring I ever Saw, and doubt if it
is not the largest in America Known, this water boils up from under th
rocks near the edge of the river and falls imediately into the river 8
feet and keeps its Colour for 1/2 a mile which is emencely Clear and of a
bluish Cast, proceeded on up the river passed a Succession of rapids to
the next great fall of 26 Ft. 5 I. river 580 yards wide this fall is not
intirely perpdincular a Short bench gives a Curve to the water as it falls
a butifull Small Island at the foot of this fall near the Center of the
Channel Covered with trees, the Missouri at this fall is 36 yards wide, a
Considerable mist rises at this fall ocasionally, from this pitch to the
head of the rapids is one mile & has a fall of 20 feet, this is also a
handsome Scenery a fall in an open leavel plain, after takeing the hight
& measureing the river proceeded on, Saw a gange of Buffalow Swiming
the river above the falls, Several of which was drawn in to the rapids and
with dificuelty mad Shore half drowned, we killed one of those Cows &
took as much meat as we wished. emence herds of those animals in every
direction, passed 2 groves in the Point just above the rapids & dined
in one opposit the mouth of Medison River, which fails in on the Stard.
Side and is 137 yards wide at its mouth the Missouri above is 800 yards
wide, as the river Missouri appears to bear S Easterley I assended about 4
miles high to a Creek which appeared to head in South mountains passed a
Island of ____ and a little timber in an Easterly bend at 1 mile, passed
Some timber in a point at 2 mile at or near the lower point of a large
Island on which we Shot at a large white bear. passed a Small Island in
the middle and one close on the Lard Shore at 3 miles behind the head of
which we Camped. those 3 Islands are all opposit, Soon after we Camped two
ganges of Buffalow crossed one above & the other below we killed 7 of
them & a calf and Saved as much of the best of the meat as we could
this evening, one man A Willard going for a load of meat at 170 yards
distance on an Island was attact by a white bear and verry near being
Caught, prosued within 40 yards of Camp where I was with one man I
collected 3 others of the party and prosued the bear (who had prosued my
track from a buffalow I had killed on the Island at about 300 yards
distance and chance to meet Willard) for fear of his attacking one man
Colter at the lower point of the Island, before we had got down the bear
had allarmed the man and prosued him into the water, at our approach he
retreated, and we relieved the man in the water, I Saw the bear but the
bushes was So thick that I could not Shoot him and it was nearly dark, the
wind from the S W & Cool killed a beaver & an elk for their Skins
this evening
[Lewis, June 19, 1805]
Wednesday June 19th 1805. This morning I sent over several men for the
meat which was killed yesterday, a few hours after they returned with it,
the wolves had not discovered it. I also dispatched George Drewyer Reubin
Fields and George Shannon on the North side of the Missouri with orders to
proceed to the entrance of Medecine river and indeavour to kill some Elk
in that neigh-bourhood. as there is more timber on that river than the
Missouri I expect that the Elk are more plenty. The cash completed today.
The wind blew violently the greater part of the day. the Indian woman was
much better this morning she walked out and gathered a considerable
quantity of the white apples of which she eat so heartily in their raw
state, together with a considerable quantity of dryed fish without my
knowledge that she complained very much and her fever again returned. I
rebuked Sharbono severely for suffering her to indulge herself with such
food he being privy to it and having been previously told what she must
only eat. I now gave her broken dozes of diluted nitre untill it produced
perspiration and at 10 P.M. 30 drops of laudnum which gave her a tolerable
nights rest. I amused myself in fishing several hours today and caught a
number of both species of the white fish, but no trout nor Cat. I employed
the men in making up our baggage in proper packages for transportation;
and waxed the stoppers of my powder canesters anew. had the frame of my
Iron boat clensed of rust and well greased. in the evening the men mended
their mockersons and preparedthemselves for the portage. After dark my dog
barked very much and seemed extreemly uneasy which was unusual with him; I
ordered the sergt. of the guard to reconniter with two men, thinking it
possible that some Indians might be about to pay us a visit, or perhaps a
white bear; he returned soon after & reported that he believed the dog
had been baying a buffaloe bull which had attempted to swim the river just
above our camp but had been beten down by the stream landed a little below
our camp on the same side & run off.
[Clark, June 19, 1805]
June 19th Wednesday 1805 We went on the Island to hunt the White bear this
morning but Could not find him, after plotting my Courses &c. I
deturmined to dry the meat we killed and leave here, and proceed up the
river as far as it bent to the S. E. and examine a Small Creek above our
Camp, I Set out and found the Creek only Contained back water for 1 mile
up, ascend near the Missouri 3 miles to the bend, from which place it
turnd. Westerly, from this bend I with 2 men went forward towards the Camp
of the party to examine the best ground for the portage, the little Creek
has verry extencive bottoms which Spread out into a varriety of leavl rich
bottoms quite to the mountains to the East, between those bottoms is hills
low and Stoney on this declivity where it is Steep. I returned to Camp
late and deturmined that the best nearest and most eassy rout would be
from the lower part of the 3rd or white bear Island, the wind all this day
blew violently hard from the S W. off the Snowey mountains, Cool, in my
last rout I lost a part of my notes which could not be found as the wind
must have blown them to a great distance. Summer duck Setting great
numbers of buffalow all about our Camp
[Lewis, June 20, 1805]
Thursday June 20th 1805. This morning we had but little to do; waiting the
return of Capt. Clark; I am apprehensive from his stay that the portage is
longer than we had calculated on. I sent out 4 hunters this morning on the
opposite side of the river to kill buffaloe; the country being more broken
on that side and cut with ravenes they can get within shoot of the
buffaloe with more ease and certainty than on this side of the river. my
object is if possible while we have now but little to do, to lay in a
large stock of dryed meat at this end of the portage to subsist the party
while engaged in the transportation of our baggage &c, to the end,
that they may not be taken from this duty when once commenced in order to
surch for the necessary subsistence. The Indian woman is qute free from
pain and fever this morning and appears to be in a fair way for recovery,
she has been walking about and fishing. In the evening 2 of the hunters
returned and informed me that they had killed eleven buffaloe eight of
which were in very fine order, I sent off all hands immediately to bring
in the meat they soon returned with about half of the best meat leaving
three men to remain all night in order to secure the ballance. the
bufhaloe are in inimence numbers, they have been constantly coming down in
large herds to water opposite to us for some hours sometimes two or three
herds wartering at the same instant and scarcely disappear before others
supply their places. they appear to make great use of the mineral water,
whether this be owing to it's being more convenient to them than the river
or that they actually prefer it I am at a loss to determine for they do
not use it invaryably, but sometimes pass at no great distance from it and
water at the river. brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated
with mineral salts such as I have frequenly mentioned on the Missouri is
found in small quantities in some of the steep ravenes on the N. side of
the river opposite to us and the falls. Capt. Clark and party returned
late this evening when he gave me the following relation of his rout and
the occurrences which had taken place with them since their departure.
Capt. Clark now furnished me with the field notes of the survey which he
had made of the Missouri and it's Cataracts cascades &c. from the
entrance of portage Creek to the South Eastwardly bend of the Missouri
above the White bear Islands, which are as follow.
[Clark, June 20, 1805]
June 20th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning, a hard wind all night and this
morning, I direct Stakes to be Cut to Stick up in the prarie to Show the
way for the party to transport the baggage &c. &c. we Set out
early on the portage, Soon after we Set out it began to rain and continued
a Short time we proceeded on thro a tolerable leavel plain, and found the
hollow of a Deep rivein to obstruct our rout as it Could not be passed
with Canos & baggage for Some distance above the place we Struck it I
examined it for Some time and finding it late deturmined to Strike the
river & take its Course & distance to Camp which I accordingly did
the wind hard from the S. W. a fair after noon, the river on both Sides
Cut with raveins Some of which is passes thro Steep Clifts into the river,
the Countrey above the falls & up the Medison river is leavel, with
low banks, a chain of mountains to the west Some part of which particuler
those to the N W. & S W are Covered with Snow and appear verry high — I
Saw a rattle Snake in an open plain 2 miles from any Creek or wood. When I
arrived at Camp found all well with great quantites of meet, the Canoes
Capt. Lewis had Carried up the Creek 1 mile to a good place to assend the
band & taken up. Not haveing Seen the Snake Indians or knowing in fact
whither to Calculate on their friendship or hostillity, we have Conceived
our party Sufficiently Small, and therefore have Concluded not to dispatch
a Canoe with a part of our men to St. Louis as we have intended early in
the Spring. we fear also that Such a measure might also discourage those
who would in Such Case remain, and migh possibly hazard the fate of the
expedition. we have never hinted to any one of the party that we had Such
a Scheem in contemplation, and all appear perfectly to have made up their
minds, to Succeed in the expedition or perish in the attempt. we all
believe that we are about to enter on the most perilous and dificuelt part
of our Voyage, yet I See no one repineing; all appear ready to meet those
dificuelties which await us with resolution and becomeing fortitude.
We had a heavy dew this morning. the Clouds near those mountains rise
Suddonly and discharge their Contents partially on the neighbouring
Plains; the Same Cloud discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in
another and rain only in a third all within the Space of a fiew Miles; and
on the Mountains to the South & S. E. of us Sometimes Snow. at present
there is no Snow on those mountains; that which covered them a fiew days
ago has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. and West of us are
Still entirely Covered are white and glitter with the reflection of the
Sun.
I do not believe that the Clouds that pervale at this Season of the year
reach the Summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the probability
is that they deposit Snow only for there has been no proceptable
diminution of the Snow which they Contain Since we first Saw them. I have
thought it probable that these mountains might have derived their
appellation of Shineing Mountains, from their glittering appearance when
the Sun Shines in certain directions on the Snow which Cover them.
Dureing the time of my being on the Plains and above the falls I as also
all my party repeatedly heard a nois which proceeded from a Direction a
little to the N. of West, as loud and resembling precisely the discharge
of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of 5 or six miles. I
was informed of it Several times by the men J. Fields particularly before
I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which
they had mistaken. at length walking in the plains yesterday near the most
extreem S. E. bend of the River above the falls I heard this nois very
distinctly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a Cloud to be Seen, I
halted and listened attentively about two hour dureing which time I heard
two other discharges, and took the direction of the Sound with my pocket
Compass which was as nearly West from me as I could estimate from the
Sound. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I could find from whence it
issued. I have thought it probable that it might be caused by running
water in Some of the caverns of those emence mountains, on the principal
of the blowing caverns; but in Such case the Sounds would be periodical
and regular, which is not the Case with this, being Sometimes heard once
only and at other times Several discharges in quick Succession. it is
heard also at different times of the day and night. I am at a great loss
to account for this Phenomenon. I well recollect hereing the Minitarees
Say that those Rocky Mountains make a great noise, but they could not tell
me the Cause, neither Could they inform me of any remarkable substance or
situation in these mountains which would autherise a conjecture of a
probable cause of this noise-. it is probable that the large river just
above those Great falls which heads in the detection of the noise has
taken it's name Medicine River from this unaccountable rumbling Sound,
which like all unacountable thing with the Indians of the Missouri is
Called Medicine.
The Ricaras inform us of the black mountains making a Simalar noise &c.
&c. and maney other wonderfull tales of those Rocky mountains and
those great falls.
[Lewis, June 21, 1805]
Friday June 21st 1805. This morning I employed the greater part of the men
in transporting a part of the bagage over portage creek to the top of the
high plain about three miles in advance on the portage. I also had one
canoe carryed on truck wheles to the same place and put the baggage in it,
in order to make an early start in the morning, as the rout of our portage
is not yet entirely settled, and it would be inconvenient to remain in the
open plain all night at a distance from water, which would probably be the
case if we did not set out early as the latter part of the rout is
destitute of water for about 8 miles — having determined to go to the
upper part of the portage tomorrow; in order to prepare my boat and
receive and take care of the stores as they were transported, I caused the
Iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools my private baggage and
Instruments to be taken as a part of this load, also the baggage of Joseph
Fields, Sergt. Gass and John sheilds, whom I had scelected to assist me in
constructing the leather boat. Three men were employed today in shaving
the Elk skins which had ben collected for the boat. the ballance of the
party were employed in cuting the meat we had killed yesterday into thin
Retches and drying it, and in bring in the ballance of what had been left
over the river with three men last evening. I readily preceive several
difficulties in preparing the leather boat which are the want of
convenient and proper timber; bark, skins, and above all that of pitch to
pay her seams, a deficiency that I really know not how to surmount unless
it be by means of tallow and pounded charcoal which mixture has answered a
very good purpose on our wooden canoes heretofore. I have seen for the
first time on the Missouri at these falls, a species of fishing ducks with
white wings, brown and white body and the head and part of the neck adjoining
of a brick red, and the beak narrow; which I take to be the same common to
James river, the Potomac and Susquehanna. immence numbers of buffaloe
comeing to water at the river as usual. the men who remained over the
river last night killed several mule deer, and Willard who was with me
killed a young Elk. The wind blew violently all day. The growth of the
neighbourhood what little there is consists of the broad and narrow leafed
cottonwood, box alder, the large or sweet willow, the narrow and broad
leafed willow. the sweet willow has not been common to the Missouri below
this or the entrance of Maria's river; here attains to the same size and
in appearance much the same as in the Atlantic States. the undergrowth
consists of rosebushes, goosberry and current bushes, honeysuckle small,
and the red wood, the inner bark of which the engages are fond of smoking
mixed with tobacco.
[Clark, June 21, 1805]
June 21st Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S W. off the mountains
and hard, Capt Lewis with the men except a few take a part of the baggage
& a Canoe up the Hill 3 mile in advance, Several men employed in
Shaveing & Graneing Elk hides for the Iron boat as it is called — 3
men were Sent up the Medison river yesterday to kill Elk for the Skins for
the boat, I fear that we Shall be put to Some dificuelty in precureing Elk
Skins Sufficent-, Cloudy afternoon, we dry meat for the men to eat on
their return from the upper part of the portage Capt Lewis determine to
proceed to the upper part of the Portage tomorrow & with 3 men proced
to fix the Iron boat with Skins &c. &c.
[Lewis, June 22, 1805]
Saturday June 22cd 1805. This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all
the party except Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, york and the Indian
woman, set out to pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the
Whitebear Islands, where we intend that this portage shall end. Capt.
Clarke piloted us through the plains. about noon we reached a little
stream about 8 miles on the portage where we halted and dined; we were
obliged here to renew both axeltrees and the tongues and howns of one set
of wheels which took us no more than 2 hours. these parts of our carriage
had been made of cottonwood and one axetree of an old mast, all of which
proved deficient and had broken down several times before we reached this
place we have now renewed them with the sweet willow and hope that they
will answer better. after dark we had reached within half a mile of our
intended camp when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to leave the
canoe, each man took as much of the baggage as he could carry on his back
and proceeded to the river where we formed our encampment much fortiegued.
the prickly pears were extreemly troublesome to us sticking our feet
through our mockersons. Saw a great number of buffaloe in the plains, also
immence quantities of little birds and the large brown curloo; the latter
is now seting; it lays it's eggs, which are of a pale blue with black
specks, on the ground without any preperation of a nest. there is a kind
of larke here that much resembles the bird called the oldfield lark with a
yellow brest and a black spot on the croop; tho this differs from ours in
the form of the tail which is pointed being formed of feathers of unequal
length; the beak is somewhat longer and more curved and the note differs
considerably; however in size, action, and colours there is no perceptable
difference; or at least none that strikes my eye. after reaching our camp
we kindled our fires and examined the meat which Capt. Clark had left, but
found only a small proportion of it, the wolves had taken the greater
part. we eat our suppers and soon retired to rest.
[Clark, June 22, 1805]
June 22nd Satturday 1805 a fine morning, Capt Lewis my Self and all the
party except a Sergeant Ordway Guterich and the Interpreter and his wife
Sar car gah we a (who are left at Camp to take Care of the baggage left)
across the portage with one Canoe on truck wheels and loaded with a part
of our Baggage I piloted thro the plains to the Camp I made at which place
I intended the portage to end which is 3 miles above the Medesin River we
had great dificuelty in getting on as the axeltree broke Several times,
and the Cuppling tongus of the wheels which was of Cotton & willow,
the only wood except Boxelder & ____ that grow in this quarter, we got
within half a mile of our intended Camp much fatigued at dark, our tongus
broke & we took a load to the river on the mens back, where we found a
number of wolves which had distroyed a great part of our meat which I had
left at that place when I was up day before yesterday we Soon went to
Sleep & Slept Sound wind from the ____ we deturmine to employ every
man Cooks & all on the portage after to day
Canoe and baggage brought up, after which we breakfasted and nearly
consumed the meat which he had left here. he now set out on his return
with the party. I employed the three men with me in the forenoon clearing
away the brush and forming our camp, and puting the frame of the boat
together. this being done I sent Shields and Gass to look out for the
necessary timber, and with J. Fields decended the river in the canoe to
the mouth of Medicine river in surch of the hunters whom I had dispatched
thither on the 19th inst. and from whom we had not heard a sentence. I
entered the mouth of medicine river and ascended it about half a mile when
we landed and walked up the Stard. side. frequently hooping as we went on
in order to find the hunters; at length after ascending the river about
five miles we found Shannon who had passed the Medecine river & fixed
his camp on the Lard. side, where he had killed seven deer and several
buffaloe and dryed about 600 lbs. of buffaloe meat; but had killed no Elk.
Shannon could give me no further account of R. Fields and Drewyer than
that he had left them about noon on the 19th at the great falls and had
come on the mouth of Medicine river to hunt Elk as he had been directed,
and never had seen them since. the evening being now far spent I thought
it better to pass the Medicine river and remain all night at Shannon's
camp; I passed the river on a raft which we soon constructed for the
purpose. the river is here about 80 yds. wide, is deep and but a moderate
current. the banks low as those of the Missouri above the falls yet never
appear to overflow. as it will give a better view of the transactions of
the party, I shall on each day give the occurrences of both camps during
our seperation as I afterwards learnt those of the lower camp from Capt.
Clark. on his return today he cut of several angles of the rout by which
we came yesterday, shortened the portage considerably, measured it and set
up stakes throughout as guides to marke the rout. he returned this evening
to the lower camp in sufficient time to take up two of the canoes from
portage creek to the top of the plain about a mile in advance. this
evening the men repaired their mockersons, and put on double souls to
protect their feet from the prickley pears. during the late rains the
buffaloe have troden up the praire very much, which having now become dry
the sharp points of earth as hard as frozen ground stand up in such
abundance that there is no avoiding them. this is particulary severe on
the feet of the men who have not only their own wight to bear in treading
on those hacklelike points but have also the addition of the burthen which
they draw and which in fact is as much as they can possibly move with.
they are obliged to halt and rest frequently for a few minutes, at every
halt these poor fellows tumble down and are so much fortiegued that many
of them are asleep in an instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible;
some are limping from the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable
to stand for a few minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains,
all go with cheerfullness. in evening Reubin Fields returned to the lower
camp and informed Capt. Clark of the absence of Shannon, with rispect to
whome they were extreemly uneasy. Fields and Drewyer had killed several
buffaloe at the bend of the missouri above the falls and had dryed a
considerable quantity of meat; they had also killed several deer but no
Elk.
[Clark, June 23, 1805]
June 23rd Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind from the S. E, after getting
the Canoe to Camp & the articles left in the plains we eate brackfast
of the remaining meat found in Camp & I with the party the truck
wheels & poles to Stick up in the prarie as a guide, Set out on our
return, we proceeded on, & measured the Way which I Streightened
considerably from that I went on yesterday, and arrived at our lower camp
in Suffcent time to take up 2 Canoes on the top of the hill from the
Creek, found all Safe at Camp the men mended their mockersons with double
Soles to Save their feet from the prickley pear, (which abounds in the
Praries,) and the hard ground which in Some & maney places So hard as
to hurt the feet verry much, the emence number of Buffalow after the last
rain has trod the flat places in Such a manner as to leave it uneaven, and
that has tried and is wors than frozen ground, added to those
obstructions, the men has to haul with all their Strength wate & art,
maney times every man all catching the grass & knobes & Stones
with their hands to give them more force in drawing on the Canoes &
Loads, and notwithstanding the Coolness of the air in high presperation
and every halt, those not employed in reparing the Couse; are asleep in a
moment, maney limping from the Soreness of their feet Some become fant for
a fiew moments, but no man Complains all go Chearfully on — to State
the fatigues of this party would take up more of the journal than other
notes which I find Scercely time to Set down. I had the best rout Staked
out and measured which is 17 miles 3/4 to the river & 1/2 a mile up
i.e 181/4 miles portage — from the lower rapid to the 1st Creek is 286
poles, to a Deep run of water, Called Willow Run is 6 miles thence to the
river 3 miles above Medison Riv at 3 Island Called White Bear Islands is
11 miles all prarie without wood or water except at the Creek & run
which afford a plenty of fine water and a little wood the plain is
tolerably leavel except at the river a Small assent & passing a low
hill from the Creek a rough & Steep assent for about 1/4 of a mile and
Several Gullies & a gradual hill for 11/2 miles the heads of Several
gullies which have Short assents & the willow run of a Steep hill on
this run grows Purple & red Currents. the red is now ripe the Purple
full grown, an emence number of Prarie birds now Setting of two kinds one
larger than a Sparrow dark yellow the Center feathers of its tail yellow
& the out Sides black Some Streeks about its neck, the other about the
Same Size White tail
[Lewis, June 24, 1805]
Monday June 24th 1805. Supposing that Drewyer and R. Fields might possibly
be still higher up medicine river, I dispatched J. Fields up the river
with orders to proceede about four miles and then return whether he found
them or not and join Shannon at this camp. I set out early and walked down
the South West side of the river and sent Shannon down the opposite side
to bring the canoe over to me and put me across the Missouri; having
landed on the Lard. side of the Missouri I sent Shannon back with the
canoe to ascend the Medicine river as far as his camp to meet J. Fields
and bring the dryed meat at that place to the camp at the white bear
Islands which accomplished and arrived with Fields this evening. the party
also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp. they were
wet and fatiegued, gave them a dram. R. Fields came with them and gave me
an account of his & Drewyer's hunt, and informed me that Drewyer was
still at their camp with the meat they had dryed. the iron frame of my
boat is 36 feet long 41/2 F. in the beam and 26 Inches in the hole.
This morning early Capt. Clark had the remaining canoe drawn out of the
water; and divided the remainder of our baggage into three parcels, one of
which he sent today by the party with two canoes. The Indian woman is now
perfectly recovered. Capt. C. came a few miles this morning to see the
party under way and returned. on my arrival at the upper camp this
morning, I found that Sergt. Gass and Shields had made but slow progress
in collecting timber for the boat; they complained of great difficulty in
geting streight or even tolerably streight sticks of 4/2 feet long. we
were obliged to make use of the willow and box alder, the cottonwood being
too soft and brittle. I kept one of them collecting timber while the other
shaved and fitted them. I have found some pine logs among the drift wood
near this place, from which, I hope to obtain as much pitch as will answer
to pay the seams of the boat. I directed Fraizer to remain in order to sew
the hides together, and form the covering for the boat.
[Clark, June 24, 1805]
June 24th Monday 1805 a Cloudy morning I rose early had, the remaining
Canoe hauled out of the water to dry and divided the baggage into 3
parcels, one of which the party took on their backs & one waggon with
truk wheels to the Canoes 3 miles in advance (Those Canoes or 5 of our
Canoes were Carried up the Creek 13/4 of a mile taken out on the bank and
left to dry from which place they are taken up a point and intersects this
rout from the mouth of the Creek at 3 miles from the foot of the rapids)
after getting up their loads they divided men & load & proceeded
on with 2 canoes on truck wheels as before, I accompaned them 4 miles and
returned, my feet being verry Sore from the walk over ruts Stones &
hills & thro the leavel plain for 6 days proceeding Carrying my pack
and gun. Some few drops of rain in the fore part of the day, at 6 oClock a
black Cloud arose to the N West, the wind shifted from the S to that point
and in a short time the earth was entirely Covered with hail, Some rain
Succeeded, which Continud for about an hour very moderately on this Side
of the river, without the earths being wet 1/2 an inch, the riveins on the
opposit or N W Side discharged emence torrents of water into the river,
& Showed evidently that the rain was much heavyer on that Side, Some
rain at different times in the night which was worm — Thunder without
lightning accompanied the hail Cloud
[Lewis, June 25, 1805]
Tuesday June 25th 1805. This morning early I sent the party back to the
lower camp; dispatched Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the
meat he had collected, and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to hunt Elk. at
eight OCIk. sent Gass and Sheilds over to the large Island for bark and
timber. about noon Fields returned and informed me that he had seen two
white bear near the river a few miles above and in attempting to get a
shoot them had stumbled uppon a third which immediately made at him being
only a few steps distant; that in runing in order to escape from the bear
he had leaped down a steep bank of the river on a stony bar where he fell
cut his hand bruised his knees and bent his gun. that fortunately for him
the bank hid him from the bear when he fell and that by that means he had
escaped. this man has been truly unfortunate with these bear, this is the
second time that he has narrowly escaped from them. about 2 P. M Shields
and Gass returned with but a small quantity of both bark and timber and
informed me that it was all they could find on the Island; they had killed
two Elk the skins of which and a part of the flesh they brought with them.
in the evening Drewyer and Frazier arrivd with about 800 lbs. of excellent
dryed meat and about 100 lbs of tallow. The river is about 800 yds. wide
opposite to us above these islands, and has a very gentle current the
bottoms are hadsome level and extensive on both sides; the bank on this
side is not more than 2 feet above the level of the water; it is a pretty
little grove in which our camp is situated. there is a species of wild rye
which is now heading it rises to the hight of 18 or 20 inches, the beard
is remarkably fine and soft it is a very handsome grass the culm is
jointed and is in every rispect the wild rye in minuture. great quantities
of mint also are here it resemble the pepper mint very much in taste and
appearance. the young blackbirds which are almost innumerable in these
islands just begin to fly. see a number of water tarripens. I have made an
unsuccessfull attempt to catch fish, and do not think there are any in
this part of the river. The party that returned this evening to the lower
camp reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their
baggage for an early start in the morning after which such as were able to
shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the
violin which Cruzatte plays extreemly well.
Capt. C. somewhat unwell today. he made Charbono kook for the party
against their return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are sometimes
so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they hoisted a
sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the truck wheels. this is
really sailing on dry land.
[Clark, June 25, 1805]
June 25th Tuesday 1805 a fair worm morning, Clouded & a few drops of
rain at 5 oClock A.M. fair I feel my Self a little unwell with a looseness
&c. &c. put out the Stores to dry & Set Chabonah &c to
Cook for the party against their return-he being the only man left on this
Side with me I had a little Coffee for brackfast which was to me a riarity
as I had not tasted any Since last winter. The wind from the N. W. &
worm. This Countrey has a romantick appearance river inclosed between high
and Steep hills Cut to pieces by revines but little timber and that
Confined to the Rivers & Creek, the Missourie has but a fiew
Scattering trees on its borders, and only one Solitary Cotton tree in
sight of my Camp the wood which we burn is drift wood which is broken to
pieces in passing the falls, not one large tree longer than about 8 or 10
feet to be found drifted below the falls the plains are inferior in point
of Soil to those below, more Stone on the sides of the hill, grass but a
few inches high and but few flowers in the Plains, great quantites of
Choke Cheries, Goose burres, red & yellow berries, & red &
Purple Currents on the edges of water Courses in bottoms & damp
places, about my Camp the Cliffs or bluffs are a hard red or redish brown
earth Containing Iron. we Catch great quantities of Trout, and a kind of
mustel, flat backs & a Soft fish resembling a Shad and a few Cat. at 5
oClock the party returned, fatigued as usial, and proceeded to mend their
mockersons &c. and G Shannon & R, Fds. to of the men who ware Sent
up the medison river to hunt Elk, they killed no Elk, Several Buffalow
& Deer, and reports that the river is 120 yds wide and about 8 feet
deep Some timber on its borders — a powerfull rain fell on the party
on their rout yesterday Wet Some fiew articles, and Caused the rout to be
So bad wet & Deep thay Could with dificuelty proceed, Capt. Lewis
& the men with him much employd with the Iron Boat in fitting it for
the water, dispatched one man to George Drewyers Camp below medison river
for meat &c. a fair after noon — great numbers of buffalow water
opposit to my Camp everry day — it may be here worthy of remark that
the Sales were hoised in the Canoes as the men were drawing them and the
wind was great relief to them being Sufficeritly Strong to move the Canoes
on the Trucks, this is Saleing on Dry land in every Sence of the word,
Serjeant N Pryor Sick, the party amused themselves with danceing untill 10
oClock all Chearfullness and good humer, they all tied up their loads to
make an early Start in the morning.
[Lewis, June 26, 1805]
Wednesday June 26th 1805. The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us.
This morning early I dispatched J. Fields and Drewyer in one of the canoes
up the river to hunt Elk. set Frazier at work to sew the skins together
for the covering of the boat. Sheilds and Gas I sent over the river to
lurch a small timbered bottom on that side opposite to the Islands for
timber and bark; and to myself I assign the duty of cook as well for those
present as for the party which I expect again to arrive this evening from
the lower camp. I collected my wood and water, boiled a large quantity of
excellent dryed buffaloe meat and made each man a large suet dumpling by
way of a treat. about 4 P.M. Shields and Gass returned with a better
supply of timber than they had yet collected tho not by any means enough.
they brought some bark principally of the Cottonwood which I found was too
brittle and soft for the purpose; for this article I find my only
dependence is the sweet willow which has a tough & strong bark.
Shields and Gass had killed seven buffaloe in their absence the skins of
which and a part of the best of the meat they brought with them. if I
cannot procure a sufficient quantity of Elk's skins I shall substitute
those of the buffaloe. late in the evening the party arrived with two more
canoes and another portion of the baggage. Whitehouse one of them much
heated and fortiegued on his arrivall dank a very hearty draught of water
and was taken almost instanly extreemly ill. his pulse were very full and
I therefore bled him plentifully from which he felt great relief. I had no
other instrument with which to perform this opperation but my pen knife,
however it answered very well. the wind being from S. E today and
favourable the men made considerable progress by means of their sails.
At the lower Camp. The party set out very early from this place, and took
with them two canoes and a second alotment of baggage consisting of
Parched meal, Pork, powder lead axes, tools, bisquit, portable soupe, some
merchandize and cloathing. Capt. C. gave Sergt. Pryor a doze of salts this
morning and employed Sharbono in rendering the buffaloe tallow which had
been collected there, he obtained a sufficient quantity to fill three
empty kegs. Capt. C. also scelected the articles to be deposited in the
cash consisting of my desk which I had left for that purpose and in which
I had left some books, my specimens of plants minerals &c. collected
from fort Mandan to that place. also 2 Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour 2
blunderbushes, 1/2 a keg of fixed ammunition and some other small articles
belonging to the party which could be dispenced with. deposited the swivel
and carriage under the rocks a little above the camp near the river. great
numbers of buffaloe still continue to water daily opposite the camp. The
antelopes still continue scattered and seperate in the plains. the females
with their young only of which they generally have two, and the males
alone. Capt. Clarke measured the rout from the Camp at the Whitebear
Islands to the lower camp which is as follows.
[Clark, June 26, 1805]
June 26th Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night this morning verry Cloudy
the party Set out this morning verry early with their loads to the Canoe
Consisting of Parched meal Pork Powder Lead axes, Tools Bisquit, P. Soup
& Some Merchendize & Clothes &c. &c. I gave Serjt. Pryor a
dolt of Salts, & Set Chabonah to trying up the Buffalow tallow &
put into the empty Kegs &c. I assort our articles for to be left at
this place buried, ____ Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour, 2 blunderbuts,
____ Caterrages a few Small lumbersom articles Capt Lewiss Desk and Some
books & Small articles in it
The wind from the N. W. verry worm flying Clouds in the evening the wind
Shifted round to the East & blew hard, which is a fair wind for the
two Canoes to Sail on the Plains across the portage, I had three Kegs of
Buffalow Grease tried up. Great numbers of Buffalow opposite to our Camp
watering to day.
[Lewis, June 27, 1805]
Thursday June 27th 1805. The party returned early this morning for the
remaining canoe and baggage; Whitehouse was not quite well this morning I
therefore detained him and about 10 A.M. set him at work with Frazier
sewing the skins together for the boat; Shields and Gass continued the
operation of shaving and fiting the horizontall bars of wood in the
sections of the boat; the timber is so crooked and indifferent that they
make but little progress, for myself I continued to act the part of cook
in order to keep all hands employed. some Elk came near our camp and we
killed 2 of them at 1 P.M. a cloud arrose to the S. W. and shortly after
came on attended with violent Thunder Lightning and hail &c. (see
notes on diary of the weather for June). soon after this storm was over
Drewyer and J. Fields returned. they were about 4 miles above us during
the storm, the hail was of no uncommon size where they were. They had
killed 9 Elk and three bear during their absence; one of the bear was the
largest by far that we have yet seen; the skin appear to me to be as large
as a common ox. while hunting they saw a thick brushey bottom on the bank
of the river where from the tracks along shore they suspected that there
were bare concealed; they therefore landed without making any nois and
climbed a leaning tree and placed themselves on it's branches about 20
feet above the ground, when thus securely fixed they gave a hoop and this
large bear instantly rushed forward to the place from whence he had heard
the human voice issue, when he arrived at the tree he made a short paus
and Drewyer shot him in the head. it is worthy of remark that these bear
never climb. the fore feet of this bear measured nine inches across and
the hind feet eleven and — 3/4 in length & exclusive of the
tallons and seven inches in width. a bear came within thirty yards of our
camp last night and eat up about thirty weight of buffaloe suit which was
hanging on a pole. my dog seems to be in a constant state of alarm with
these bear and keeps barking all night. soon after the storm this evening
the water on this side of the river became of a deep crimson colour which
I pesume proceeded from some stream above and on this side. there is a
kind of soft red stone in the bluffs and bottoms. of the gullies in this
neighbourhood which forms this colouring matter. — At the lower camp.
Capt. Clark completed a draught of the river with the couses and distances
from the entrance of the Missouri to Ft. Mandan, which we intend
depositing here in order to guard against accedents. Sergt. Pryor is
somewhat better this morning. at 4 P.M. the party returned from the upper
camp; Capt. C. gave them a drink of grog; they prepared for the labour of
the next day. soon after the party returned it began to rain accompanyed
by some hail and continued a short time; a second shower fell late in the
evening accompanyed by a high wind from N. W. — the mangled carcases
of several buffaloe pass down the river today which had no doubt perished
in the falls.
[Clark, June 27, 1805]
June 27th Thursday 1805 a fair warm morning wind from the S, E, and
moderate. Serjt. Pryor Something better this morning, I proceed to finish
a rough draugh of the river & Distances to leave at this place, the
wormest day we have had this year, at 4 oClock the Party returned from the
head of the portage Soon after it began to hail and rain hard and
continued for a fiew minits & Ceased for an hour and began to rain
again with a heavy wind from the N W. I refresh the men with a drink of
grog The river beginning to rise a little the water is Coloured a redish
brown, the Small Streams, discharges in great torrents, and partake of the
Choler of the earth over which it passes-a great part of which is light
& of a redish brown. Several Buffalow pass drowned & in passing
over the falls Cloudy all night, Cold
[Lewis, June 28, 1805]
Friday June 28th 1805. Set Drewyer to shaving the Elk skins, Fields to
make the cross stays for the boat, Frazier and Whitehouse continue their
operation with the skins, Shields and Gass finish the horizontal bars of
the sections; after which I sent them in surch of willow bark, a
sufficient supply of which they now obtained to bind the boat. expecting
the party this evening I prepared a supper for them but they did not
arrive. not having quite Elk skins enough I employed three buffaloe hides
to cover one section. not being able to shave these skins I had them
singed pretty closely with a blazeing torch; I think they will answer
tolerable well. The White bear have become so troublesome to us that I do
not think it prudent to send one man alone on an errand of any kind,
particularly where he has to pass through the brush. we have seen two of
them on the large Island opposite to us today but are so much engaged that
we could not spare the time to hunt them but will make a frolick of it
when the party return and drive them from these islands. they come close
arround our camp every night but have never yet ventured to attack us and
our dog gives us timely notice of their visits, he keeps constantly
padroling all night. I have made the men sleep with their arms by them as
usual for fear of accedents. the river is now about nine inches higher
than it was on my arrival. lower Camp. early this morning Capt. C.
dispatched the remaining canoe with some baggage to the top of the plain
above Portage creek three miles in advance; some others he employed in
carrying the articles to the cash and depositing them and others to mend
the carriages which wer somewhat out of repair. this being accomplished he
loaded the two carriages with the remaining baggage and set out with all
the party and proceeded on with much difficulty to the canoe in the plain.
portage creek had arisen considerably and the water was of crimson colour
and illy tasted. on his arrival at the canoe he found there was more
baggage than he could possibly take at one load on the two sets of trucks
and therefore left some barrels of pork & flour and a few heavy boxes
of amunition which could not well be injured, and proceeded with the canoe
& one set of trucks loaded with baggage to willow run where he
encamped for the night, and killed two buffaloe to subsist the party. soon
after his arrival at willow run he experienced a hard shower of rain which
was succeeded by a violent wind from the S. W. off the snowy mountains,
accompanyed with rain; the party being cold and wet, he administered the
consolation of a dram to each.
[Clark, June 28, 1805]
June 28th Friday 1805 a fair morning wind from the South I dispatch the
remaining Canoe with baggage in her to the top of the Hill three miles,
imploy Some hands in Carrying those things we intend to deposit to the
Carsh or hole, Some to repareing one of the trucks &c. &c. the
water is riseing and of a redish brown Cholour after Covering the Carshe
& loading the two Carrges with the remaining part of our Baggage we
all Set out passed the Creek which had rose a little and the water nearly
red, and bad tasted, we assended the hill to the place the Canoe lay with
great labour, at the Canoe at which place we left Some boxes & Kegs of
Pork & flour for another Load, and proceeded on with the Canoe &
what baggage we could draw on the wheels to willow run 6 miles where we
Camped, this run mearly Some water remaining in holes &c. Soon after
we halted we had a Shower, and at dark we expereinced a most dredfull wind
from off the Snow Mountains to the S. W. accompd. with rain which
continued at intervales all night men wet. I refreshed them with a dram.
Killed 2 Buffalow. Great nos. about
[Lewis, June 29, 1805]
Saturday June 29th 1805. This morning we experienced a heavy shower of
rain for about an hour after which it became fair. not having seen the
large fountain of which Capt. Clark spoke I determined to visit it today
as I could better spare this day from my attention to the boat than
probably any other when the work would be further advanced; accordingly
after seting the hands at their several employments I took Drewyer and
seet out for the fountain and passed through a level beautiful plain for
about Six miles when I reached the brake of the river hills here we were
overtaken by a violent gust of wind and rain from the S. W. attended with
thunder and Litning. I expected a hail storm probably from this cloud and
therefore took refuge in a little gully wher there were some broad stones
with which I purposed protecting my head if we should have a repetition of
the seene of the 27th but fortunately we had but little hail and that not
large; I sat very composedly for about an hour without sheter and took a
copious drenching of rain; after the shower was over I continued my rout
to the fountain which I found much as Capt. C; had discribed & think
it may well be retained on the list of prodegies of this neighbourhood
towards which, nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for I have
scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in this quarter without
experiencing some novel occurrence among the party or witnessing the
appearance of some uncommon object. I think this fountain the largest I
ever beheld, and the hadsome cascade which it affords over some steep and
irregular rocks in it's passage to the river adds not a little to it's
beauty. it is about 25 yds. from the river, situated in a pretty little
level plain, and has a suddon decent of about 6 feet in one part of it's
course. the water of this fountain is extreemly tranparent and cold; nor
is it impregnated with lime or any other extranious matter which I can
discover, but is very pure and pleasent. it's waters marke their passage
as Capt. Clark observes for a considerable distance down the Missouri
notwithstanding it's rapidity and force. the water of the fountain boil up
with such force near it's center that it's surface in that part seems even
higher than the surrounding earth which is a firm handsom terf of fine
green grass. after amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the
fountain I found myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined
to return and accordingly set out; on our way to camp we found a buffaloe
dead which we had shot as we came out and took a parsel of the meat to
camp it was in very good order; the hump and tongue of a fat buffaloe I
esteem great delicasies. on my arrival at camp I was astonished not to
find the party yet arrived, but then concluded that probably the state of
the praries had detained them, as in the wet state in which they are at
present the mud sticks to the wheels is such manner that they are obliged
to halt frequently and clense them. Transaction and occurrencies which
took place with Capt. Clark and party today.
Shortly after the rain which fell early this morning he found it
imposseble from the state of the plains for the party to reach the upper
extremity of the portage with their present load, and therefore sent back
almost all of the party to bring the baggage which had been left behind
yesterday. he determined himself to pass by the way of the river to camp
in order to supply the deficiency of some notes and remarks which he had
made as he first ascended the river but which he had unfortunately lost.
accordingly he left one man at Willow run to guard the baggage and took
with him his black man York, Sharbono and his indian woman also
accompanyed Capt. C. on his arrival at the falls he perceived a very black
cloud rising in the West which threatened immediate rain; he looked about
for a shelter but could find none without being in great danger of being
blown into the river should the wind prove as violent as it sometimes is
on those occasions in these plains; at length about a 1/4 of a mile above
the falls he discovered a deep rivene where there were some shelving rocks
under which he took shelter near the river with Sharbono and the Indian
woman; laying their guns compass &c. under a shelving rock on the
upper side of the rivene where they were perfectly secure from the rain.
the first shower was moderate accompanyed by a violent rain the effects of
which they did but little feel; soon after a most violent torrent of rain
decended accompanyed with hail; the rain appeared to decend in a body and
instantly collected in the rivene and came down in a roling torrent with
irrisistable force driving rocks mud and everything before it which
opposed it's passage, Capt. C. fortunately discovered it a moment before
it reached them and seizing his gun and shot pouch with his left hand with
the right he assisted himself up the steep bluff shoving occasionaly the
Indian woman before him who had her child in her arms; Sharbono had the
woman by the hand indeavouring to pull her up the hill but was so much
frightened that he remained frequently motionless and but for Capt. C.
both himself and his woman and child must have perished. so suddon was the
rise of the water that before Capt C could reach his gun and begin to
ascend the bank it was up to his waist and wet his watch; and he could
scarcely ascend faster than it arrose till it had obtained the debth of 15
feet with a current tremendious to behold. one moment longer & it
would have swept them into the river just above the great cataract of 87
feet where they must have inevitably perished. Sarbono lost his gun shot
pouch, horn, tomahawk, and my wiping rod; Capt. Clark his Umbrella and
compas or circumferenter. they fortunately arrived on the plain safe,
where they found the black man, York, in surch of them; york had seperated
from them a little while before the storm, in pursuit of some buffaloe and
had not seen them enter the rivene; when this gust came on he returned in
surch of them & not being able to find them for some time was much
allarmed. the bier in which the woman carrys her child and all it's
cloaths wer swept away as they lay at her feet she having time only to
grasp her child; the infant was therefore very cold and the woman also who
had just recovered from a severe indisposition was also wet and cold, Capt
C. therefore relinquished his intended rout and returned to the camp at
willow run in order also to obtain dry cloathes for himself and directed
them to follow him. on Capt. Clark's arrival at camp he found that the
party dispatched for the baggage had returned in great confusion and
consternation leaving their loads in the plains; the men who were all
nearly naked and no covering on the head were sorely mawled with the hail
which was so large and driven with such force by the wind that it nocked
many of them (town and one particulary as many as three times most of them
were bleeding freely and complained of being much bruised. willow run
raised about 6 feet with this rain and the plains were so wet they could
do nothing more this evening. Capt. C. gave the party a dram to console
them in some measure for their general defeat.
[Clark, June 29, 1805]
Junne 29th Saltarday 1805 a little rain verry early this morning after
Clear, finding that the Prarie was So wet as to render it impossible to
pass on to the end of the portage, deturmined to Send hack to the top of
the hill at the Creek for the remaining part of the baggage left at that
place yesterday, leaveing one man to take care of the baggage at this
place. I deturmined any Self to proceed on to the falls and take the
river, according we all Set out., I took my Servent & one man Chabono
our Interpreter & his Squar accompanied, Soon after I arrived at the
falls, I perceived a Cloud which appeared black and threaten imediate
rain, I looked out for a Shelter but Could See no place without being in
great danger of being blown into the river if the wind Should prove as
turbelant as it is at Some times about 1/4 of a mile above the falls I
obsd a Deep rivein in which was Shelveing rocks under which we took
Shelter near the river and placed our guns the Compass &c. &c.
Under a Shelveing rock on the upper Side of the Creek, in a place which
was verry Secure from rain, the first Shower was moderate accompanied with
a violent wind, the effects of which we did not feel, Soon after a torrent
of rain and hail fell more violent than ever I Saw before, the rain fell
like one voley of water falling from the heavens and gave us time only to
get out of the way of a torrent of water which was Poreing down the hill
in the rivin with emence force tareing every thing before it takeing with
it large rocks & mud, I took my gun & Shot pouch in my left hand,
and with the right Scrambled up the hill pushing the Interpreters wife
(who had her Child in her arms) before me, the Interpreter himself makeing
attempts to pull up his wife by the hand much Scared and nearly without
motion — we at length retched the top of the hill Safe where I found
my Servent in Serch of us greatly agitated, for our wellfar-. before I got
out of the bottom of the revein which was a flat dry rock when I entered
it, the water was up to my waste & wet my watch, I Scrcely got out
before it raised 10 feet deep with a torrent which turrouble to behold,
and by the time I reached the top of the hill, at least 15 feet water, I
directed the party to return to the Camp at the run as fast as possible to
get to our lode where Clothes Could be got to Cover the Child whose
Clothes were all lost, and the woman who was but just recovering from a
Severe indispostion, and was wet and Cold, I was fearfull of a relaps I
caused her as also the others of the party to take a little Spirits, which
my Servent had in a Canteen, which revived verry much. on arrival at the
Camp on the willow run-met the party who had returned in great Confusion
to the run leaveing their loads in the Plain, the hail & wind being So
large and violent in the plains, and them naked, they were much brused,
and Some nearly killed one knocked down three times, and others without
hats or any thing on their heads bloodey & Complained verry much; I
refreshed them with a little grog — Soon after the run began to rise
and rose 6 feet in a few minits-. I lost at the river in the torrent the
large Compas, an eligant fusee, Tomahawk Humbrallo, Shot pouh, & horn
wih powder & Ball, mockersons, & the woman lost her Childs Bear
& Clothes bedding &c. — The Compass is a Serious loss; as we
have no other large one. The plains are So wet that we Can do nothing this
evining particilarly as two deep reveins are between ourselves & Load
[Lewis, June 30, 1805]
Sunday June 30th 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning which is a remarkable event. Fraizer
and Whitehouse still continue their opperation of sewing the skins
together. I set Shields and gass to shaving bark and Fields continued to
make the cross brases. Drewyer and myself rendered a considerable quantity
of tallow and cooked. I begin to be extremely impatient to be off as the
season is now waisting a pace nearly three months have now elapsed since
we left Fort Mandan and not yet reached the Rocky Mountains I am therefore
fully preswaded that we shall not reach Fort Mandan again this season if
we even return from the ocean to the Snake Indians. wherever we find
timber there is also beaver; Drewyer killed two today. There are a number
of large bat or goatsucker here I killed one of them and found that there
was no difference between them and those common to the U States; I have
not seen the leather winged bat for some time nor is there any of the
small goatsuckers in this quarter of the country. we have not the
whip-poor-will either. this last is by many persons in the U States
confounded with the large goat-sucker or night-hawk as it is called in the
Eastern States, and are taken for the same bird. it is true that there is
a great resemblance but they are distinct species of the goatsucker. here
the one exists without the other. the large goat sucker lays it's eggs in
these open plains without the preperation of a nest we have found their
eggs in several instances they lay only two before they set nor do I
beleive that they raise more than one brood in a season; they have now
just hatched their young. — This evening the bark was shaved and the
leather covering for the sections were also completed and I had them put
into the water, in order to toughen the bark, and prepare the leather for
sewing on the sections in the morning. it has taken 28 Elk skins and 4
Buffaloe skins to complete her. the crossbars are also finished this
evening; we have therefore only the way strips now to obtain in order to
complete the wood work, and this I fear will be a difficult task. The
party have not returned from the lower camp I am therefore fearfull that
some uncommon accedent has happened.
Occurrences with Capt. Clark and Party.
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched two men to kill some buffaloe, two
others to the falls to surch for the articles lost yesterday, one he
retained to cook and sent the others for the baggage left in the plains
yesterday. the hunters soon returned loaded with meat those sent for the
baggage brought it up in a few hours, he then set four men at work to make
axeltrees and repare the carrages; the others he employed in conveying the
baggage over the run on their sholders it having now fallent to about 3
feet water. the men complained much today of the bruises and wounds which
they had received yesterday from the hail. the two men sent to the falls
returned with the compas which they found covered in the mud and sand near
the mouth of the rivene the other articles were irrecoverably lost. they
found that part of rivene in; which Capt. C. had been seting yesterday,
filled with huge rocks. at 11 A.M. Capt. Clark dispatched the party with a
load of the baggage as far as the 6 miles stake, with orders to deposit it
there and return with the carriages which they did accordingly. they
experienced a heavy gust of wind this evening from the S. W. after which
it was a fair afternoon. more buffaloe than usual were seen about their
camp; Capt. C assured me that he beleives he saw at least ten thousand at
one view.
[Clark, June 30, 1805]
June 30th Sunday 1805. a fair morning, I dispatch the party except 5 for
the remaining baggage Scattered in the plains, two to hunt for meat, two
to the falls, and one to Cook at 10 oClock the hunters Came in loaded with
fat meat, & those were dispatched for the baggage returned with it. I
Set 4 men to make new axeltrees & repare the Carrages, others to take
the load across the run which had fallen & is about 3 feet water, men
Complain of being Swore this day dull and lolling about, The two men
dispatched in Serch of the articls lost yesterday returned and brought the
Compass which they found in the mud & Stones near the mouth of the
revein, no other articles found, the place I Sheltered under filled up
with hugh Rocks, I Set the party out at 11 oClock to take a load to the 6
mile Stake & return this evening, and I intend to take on the ballance
to the river tomorrow if the prarie will permit. at 3 oClock a Storm of
wind from the S. W. after which we had a clear evening. Great numbers of
Buffalow in every direction, I think 10,000 may be Seen in a view.
[Lewis, July 1, 1805]
Monday July 1st 1805. This morning I set Frazier and Whitehouse to sewing
the leather on the sides of the sections of the boat; Shields and J.
Fields to collect and split light wood and prepare a pit to make tar. Gas
I set at work to make the way strips out of some willow limbs which tho
indifferent were the best which could be obtained. Drewyer and myself
completed the opperation of rendering the tallow; we obtained about 100
lbs. by evening the skins were all attatched to their sections and I
returned them again to the water. all matters were now in readiness to
commence the opperation of puting the parts of the boat together in the
morning. the way strips are not yet ready but will be done in time as I
have obtained the necessary timber. the difficulty in obtaining the
necessary materials has retarded my operations in forming this boat
extreemly tedious and troublesome; and as it was a novel peice of
machinism to all who were employed my constant attention was necessary to
every part of the work; this together with the duties of cheif cook has
kept me pretty well employed. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark arrived with the party
all very much fortiegued. he brought with him all the baggage except what
he had deposited yesterday at the six mile stake, for which the party were
too much fortiegued to return this evening. we gave them a dram and
suffered them to rest from their labours this evening. I directed Bratton
to assist in making the tar tomorrow, and scelected several others to
assist in puting the boat together. the day has been warm and the
Musquetoes troublesome of course the bear were about our camp all last
night, we have therefore determined to beat up their quarters tomorrow,
and kill them or drive them from their haunts about this place.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st Monday 1805 I
arrived at this place to day at 3 oClock P.M. with the party from the
lower part of the portage much fatigued &c.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
July 1st Monday 1805. We Set out early this morning with the remaining
load, and proceeded on verry well to Capt Lewis's Camp where we arrived at
3 oClock, the Day worm and party much fatigued, found Capt. Lewis and
party all buisey employd in fitting up the Iron boat, the wind hard from
the S, W, — one man verry unwell, his legs & theis broke out and
Swelled the hail which fell at Capt. Lewis Camp 27 Ins was 7 Inches in
circumfrance & waied 3 ounces, fortunately for us it was not So large
in the plains, if it had we Should most certainly fallen victims to its
rage as the men were mostly naked, and but few with hats or any covering
on their heads, The hunters killed 3 white bear one large, the fore feet
of which measured 9 Inchs across, the hind feet 11 Inchs 3/4 long & 7
Inch's wide a bear nearly Catching Joseph Fields Chased him into the
water, bear about the Camp every night & Seen on an Isld. in the day
[Lewis, July 2, 1805]
Tuesday July 2cd 1805 A shower of rain fell very early this morning after
which we dispatched the men for the remaining baggage at the 6 mile stake.
Shields and Bratton seting their tarkiln, Sergts. Pryor and Gass at work
on the waystrips and myself and all other hands engaged in puting the boat
together which we accomplished in about 3 hours and I then set four men at
work sewing the leather over the cross bars of Iron on the inner side of
the boat, which form the ends of the sections. about 2 P.M. the party
returned with the baggage, all well pleased that they had completed the
laborious task of the portage. The Musquetoes uncommonly troublesome the
wind hard from the S. W. all day I think it possible that these almost
perpetual S. W. winds proceede from the agency of the Snowey Mountains and
the wide level and untimbered plains which streach themselves along their
bases for an immence distance (i e) that the air comeing in contact with
the snow is suddonly chilled and condenced, thus becoming heaver than the
air beneath in the plains, it glides down the sides of these mountains
& decends to the plains, where by the constant action of the sun on
the face of an untimbered country there is a partial vacuum formed for
it's reception. I have observed that the winds from this quarter are
always the coldest and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from
giving full credit to my own hypothesis on this subject; if hoever I find
on the opposite side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary
direction I shall then have more faith. After I had completed my
observation of Equal Altitudes today Capt. Clark Myself and 12 men passed
over to the large Island to hunt bear. the brush in that part of it where
the bear frequent is an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad leafed
willow; this brush we entered in small parties of 3 or four together and
surched in every part. we found one only which made at Drewyer and he shot
him in the brest at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball fortunately
passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down and gave
Drewyer time to get out of his sight; the bear changed his course we
pursued him about a hundred yards by the blood and found him dead; we
surched the thicket in every part but found no other, and therefore
returned. this was a young male and would weigh about 400 lbs. the water
of the Missouri here is in most places about 10 feet deep. after our
return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large rata it was
somewhat larger than the common European rat, of lighter colour; the body
and outer part of the legs and head of a light lead colour, the belly and
inner side of the legs white as were also the feet and years. the toes
were longer and the ears much larger than the common rat; the ears
uncovered with hair. the eyes were black and prominent the whiskers very
long and full. the tail was reather longer than the body and covered with
fine fur or poil of the same length and colour of the back. the fur was
very silkey close and short. I have frequently seen the nests of these
rats in clifts of rocks and hollow trees but never before saw one of them.
they feed very much on the fruit and seed of the prickly pear; or at least
I have seen large quantities of the hulls of that fruit lying about their
holes and in their nests.
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805 Some rain at day light this morning. dispatched the
party for the remaining baggage left at the 6 mile Stake, they returned in
the evening and we Crossed to a large Island nearly opposit to us to kill
bear which has been Seen frequently in the Island, we killed one bear
& returned at Sun Set. The Roreing of the falls for maney miles above
us
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805 Some rain at day light this morn'g after which a
fair morning, dispatched the men for the Kegs &c. left at the Six mile
Stake, others to get timber for the boat &c. Musquetors verry
troublesom to day, day worm, after the return of the men with the articles
left at the 6 mile Stake Capt. Lewis my Self & 12 men Crossed to an
Island on which we Saw a bear the evening before, & Several had been
Seen by the party at this place, we killed one of the bear and returned.
The river at this place is ____ yards wide and about 10 feet water Cought
a rat in our Stores, which had done some mischief, this rat was about the
Sise of a Comn. large rat, larger ears, long whiskers & toes, with a
tail long & hairey like a ground Squirel, verry fine fur and lighter
than the Common rat. Wind to day as usial from the S. W. and hard all the
after part of the day, those winds are also Cool and generally verry hard.
[Lewis, July 3, 1805]
Wednesday July 3rd 1805. This morning early we employed all hands; some
were making tar or attempting to make it, others were attatching the skins
on the boat, other cuting and fiting the bark for lining puting in the
woodworke &c some hunters were sent out to kill buffaloe in order to
make pemecon to take with us and also for their skins which we now want to
cover our baggage in the boat and canoes when we depart from hence. the
Indians have informed us that we should shortly leave the buffaloe country
after passing the falls; this I much regret for I know when we leave the
buffaloe that we shal sometimes be under the necessity of fasting
occasionally. and at all events the white puddings will be irretreivably
lost and Sharbono out of imployment. our tar-kiln which ought to have
began to run this morning has yealded no tar as yet and I am much affraid
will not yeald any, if so I fear the whole opperation of my boat will be
useless. I fear I have committed another blunder also in sewing the skins
with a nedle which has sharp edges these have cut the skin and as it drys
I discover that the throng dose not fill the holes as I expected tho I
made them sew with a large throng for that purpose. at 10 OCk A.M. we had
a slight shower which scarcely wet the grass. One buffaloe only and 2
Antelopes killed today six beaver and 2 otter have been killed within the
last three days. The current of the river looks so gentle and inviting
that the men all seem anxious to be moving upward as well as ourselves. we
have got the boat prety well forward today and think we shall be able to
complete her tomorrow except paying her, to do which will require some
little time to make her first perfectly dry. she has assumed her shape and
looks extreemly well. She will be very light, more so than any vessel of
her size that I ever saw.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805 all of party employd in Sowing the Skins to the
boat, burning Tare, preparing timber, hunting buffalow for their meat
& Skins, drying & repacking the Stores, Goods &c. &c. at 1
oClock began to rain. in the evening the hunters killed two antilopes
& a Buffalow.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805 A fine morning wind from the S. W all the party
employd, Some about the boat, attaching the Skins & Sowing them to the
Sections, others prepareing timber, Some, burning tar of the drift pine,
Some airring and repacking the Stores & Goods, & others hunting
for Meet to make pemitigon & for the use of their Skins to Cover the
Canoes & boat,-. a Small Shower at 1 oClock which did Scercely wet the
grass-. one buffalow and two Antilopes Killed this evening. Six beaver
& 2 orters has been Killed at this camp within a fiew days we discover
no fish above the falls as yet — the only timber in this part of the
Countrey is willow, a fiew Cotton trees which is neither large nor tall,
Boxalders and red wood. (Boil roche arrow wood)
The water tolerably clear and Soft in the river, Current jentle and
bottoms riseing from the water; no appearance of the river riseing more
than a few feet above the falls, as high up as we have yet explored. but
few trees on the Std Side the grass is high and fine near the river. the
winds has blown for Several days from the S. W. I think it possible that
those almost perpetial S W. winds, proceed from the agency of the Snowey
mountains and the wide leavel and untimbered plains which Streach
themselves along their borders for an emence distance, that the air
comeing in Contact with the Snow is Suddenly chilled and condensed, thus
becomeing heavyer than the air beneath in the plains it glides down the
Sides of those mountains and decends to the plains, where by the constant
action of the Sun on the face of the untimbered country there is a partial
vacuom formed for it's reception I have observed that the winds from this
quarter is always the Coaldest and most violent which we experience, yet I
am far from giveing full credit to this hypothesis on this Subject; if I
find however on the opposit Side of these mountains that the winds take a
contrary direction I Shall then have full faith. (The winds take a
contrary direction in the morning or from the mountains on the west Side)
[Lewis, July 4, 1805]
Thursday July 4th 1805. Yesterday we permitted Sergt. Gass McNeal and
several others who had not yet seen the falls to visit them. no appearance
of tar yet and I am now confident that we shall not be able to obtain any;
a serious misfortune. I employed a number of hands on the boat today and
by 4 P.M. in the evening completed her except the most difficult part of
the work that of making her seams secure. I had her turned up and some
small fires kindled underneath to dry her. Capt. C. completed a draught of
the river from Fort Mandan to this place which we intend depositing at
this place in order to guard against accedents. not having seen the Snake
Indians or knowing in fact whether to calculate on their friendship or
hostility or friendship we have conceived our party sufficiently small and
therefore have concluded not to dispatch a canoe with a part of our men to
St. Louis as we had intended early in the spring. we fear also that such a
measure might possibly discourage those who would in such case remain, and
might possibly hazzard the fate of the expedition. we have never once
hinted to any one of the party that we had such a scheme in contemplation,
and all appear perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the
expedition or purish in the attempt. we all beleive that we are now about
to enter on the most perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see
no one repining; all appear ready to met those difficulties which wait us
with resolution and becoming fortitude. we had a heavy dew this morning.
the clouds near these mountains rise suddonly and discharge their contents
partially on the neighbouring plains; the same cloud will discharge hail
alone in one part hail and rain in another and rain only in a third all
within the space of a few miles; and on the Mountains to the S. E. of us
sometimes snow. at present there is no snow on those mountains; that which
covered them when we first saw them and which has fallen on them several
times since has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. & W. of us
are still entirely covered are white and glitter with the reflection of
the sun. I do not beleive that the clouds which prevail at this season of
the year reach the summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the
probability is that they deposit snow only for there has been no
perceptible deminution of the snow which they contain since we first saw
them. I have thought it probable that these mountains might have derived
their appellation of shining Mountains, from their glittering appearance
when the sun shines in certain directions on the snow which covers them.
since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly witnessed a nois which
proceeds from a direction a little to the N. of West as loud and
resembling precisely the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at
the distance of three miles. I was informed of it by the men several times
before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably
which they had mistaken at length walking in the plains the other day I
heard this noise very distictly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a
cloud to be seen, I halted and listened attentively about an hour during
which time I heard two other discharges and tok the direction of the sound
with my pocket compass. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I could find
from whence it issued. I have thout it probable that it might be caused by
runing water in some of the caverns of those immence mountains, on the
principal of the blowing caverns; but in such case the sounds would be
periodical & regular, which is not the case with this, being sometimes
heard once only and at other times, six or seven discharges in quick
succession. it is heard also at different seasons of the day and night. I
am at a loss to account for this phenomenon. our work being at an end this
evening, we gave the men a drink of sperits, it being the last of our
stock, and some of them appeared a little sensible of it's effects the
fiddle was plyed and they danced very merrily untill 9 in the evening when
a heavy shower of rain put an end to that part of the amusement tho they
continued their mirth with songs and festive jokes and were extreemly
merry untill late at night. we had a very comfortable dinner, of bacon,
beans, suit dumplings & buffaloe beaf &c. in short we had no just
cause to covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day. — one
Elk and a beaver were all that was killed by the hunters today; the
buffaloe seem to have withdrawn themselves from this neighbourhood; tho
the men inform us that they are still abundant about the falls.
[Clark, July 4, 1805]
,July the 4th Thursday 1805 A fine morning, a heavy dew last night, all
hands employed in Completeing the leather boat, gave the Party a dram
which made Several verry lively, a black Cloud came up from the S. W, and
rained a fiew drops I employ my Self drawing a Copy of the river to be
left at this place for fear of Some accident in advance, I have left
buried below the falls a Map of the Countrey below Fort Mandan with
Sundery private papers the party amused themselves danceing untill late
when a Shower of rain broke up the amusement, all lively and Chearfull,
one Elk and a beaver kill'd to day. our Tar kill like to turn out nothing
from the following cause.
The climate about the falls of Missouri appears to be Singular Cloudy
every day (Since our arrival near them) which rise from defferent
directions and discharge themselves partially in the plains &
mountains, in Some places rain others rain & hail, hail alone, and on
the mountains in Some parts Snow. a rumbling like Cannon at a great
distance is heard to the west if us; the Cause we Can't account
[Lewis, July 5, 1805]
Friday July 5th 1805. This morning I had the boat removed to an open
situation, scaffold her off the ground, turned her keel to the sun and
kindled fires under her to dry her more expeditiously. I then set a couple
of men to pounding of charcoal to form a composition with some beeswax
which we have and buffaloe tallow now my only hope and resource for paying
my boat; I sincerely hope it may answer yet I fear it will not. the boat
in every other rispect completely answers my most sanguine expectation;
she is not yet dry and eight men can carry her with the greatest ease; she
is strong and will carry at least 8,000 lbs. with her suit of hands; her
form is as complete as I could wish it. the stitches begin to gape very
much since she has began to dry; I am now convinced this would not have
been the case had the skins been sewed with a sharp point only and the
leather not cut by the edges of a sharp nedle. about 8 A M. a large herd
of buffaloe came near our camp and Capt. Clark with a party of the hunters
indeavoured to get a shoot at them but the wind proved unfavourable and
they ran off; the hunters pursued and killed three of them; we had most of
the meat brought in and set a party to drying it. their skins were all
brought in and streached to dry for the purpose of covering the baggage. 2
Wolves and three Antelopes also killed today. we permitted three other men
to visit the falls today; these were the last of the party who had not as
yet indulged themselves with this grand and interesting seen. the buffaloe
again appear in great numbers about our camp and seem to be moving down
the river. it is somewhat remarkable that altho you may see ten or a
douzen herds of buffaloe distinctly scattered and many miles distant yet
if they are undisturbed by pursuit, they will all be traveling in one
direction. the men who were permitted to visit the falls today returned in
the evening and reported that the buffaloe were very numerous in that
quarter; and as the country is more broken near the river in that quarter
we conclude to dispatch a couple of canoes tomorrow with some hunters to
kill as many as will answer our purposes.
The plains in this part of the country are not so fertile as below the
entrance of the Cockkle or missel shell river and from thence down the
Missouri there is also much more stone on the sides of the hills and on
the broken lands than below.
[Clark, July 5, 1805]
July 5th Friday 1805 A fine morning and but little wind, worm and Sultrey
at 8 oClock — I Saw a large gangue of Buffalow and prosued them with
Several men the wind was unfavourable and we Could not get near them, the
party Scattered & Killed 3 buffalow and brought in their Skins and
Some meat, Killed 2 wolves & 3 Antilopes for their Skins, Capt. Lewis
much engaged in Completeing the Leather boat. Three men went to See the
Falls, Saw great numbers of Buffalow on both Sides of the river. great
numbers of young black birds
[Lewis, July 6, 1805]
Saturday July 6th 1805 In the couse of last night had several showers of
hail and rain attended with thunder and lightning. about day a heavy storm
came on from the S W attended with hail rain and a continued roar of
thunder and some lightning. the hail was as large as musket balls and
covered the ground perfectly. we hand some of it collected which kept very
well through the day and served to cool our water. These showers and gusts
keep my boat wet in dispite of my exertions. she is not yet ready for the
grease and coal. after the hail and rain was over this morning we
dispatched 4 hunters and two canoes to the head of the rappids as we had
determined last evening. the red and yellow courants are now ripe and
abundant, they are reather ascid as yet. There is a remarkable small fox
which ascociate in large communities and burrow in the praries something
like the small wolf but we have not as yet been able to obtain one of
them; they are extreemly watchfull and take reffuge in their burrows which
are very deep; we have seen them no where except near these falls.
[Clark, July 6, 1805]
July 6th Satturday 1805 a heavy wind from the S W and Some rain about mid
night last, at day light this morning a verry black Cloud from the S W,
with a Contined rore of thunder & Some lightening and rained and
hailed tremendiously for about 1/2 an hour, the hail was the Size of a
musket ball and Covered the ground. this hail & rain was accompand. by
a hard wind which lasted for a fiew minits. Cloudy all the forepart of the
day, after Part Clear. dispatched 4 men in 2 Canoes to the falls, to kill
Buffalow, for their Skins & Meat others employd about the boat, I
cought Some Small fish this evening.
[Lewis, July 7, 1805]
Sunday July 7th 1805. The weather warm and cloudy therefore unfavourable
for many operations; I keep small fires under the boat; the blowing flies
are innumerable about it; the moisture retained by the bark prevents it
from drying as fast as it otherwise would. we dispatched two other hunters
to kill Elk or buffaloe for their skins to cover our baggage. we have no
tents; the men are therefore obliged to have recourse to the sails for
shelter from the weather and we have not more skins than are sufficient to
cover our baggage when stoed away in bulk on land. many of the men are
engaged in dressing leather to cloath themselves. their leather cloathes
soon become rotton as they are much exposed to the water and frequently
wet. Capt. Clarks black man York is very unwell today and he gave him a
doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was much better in
the evening. this is a discription of medecine that I nevr have recourse
to in my practice except in cases of the intermittent fever. this evening
the hunters returned with the canoes and brought thre buffaloe skins only
and two Antelope 4 deer and three wolf skins; they reported that the
buffaloe had gone further down the river. the two hunters whom we sent out
from hence returned also without having killed anything except one Elk. I
set one of the party at work to make me some sacks of the wolf skins, to
transport my Instruments when occasion requirs their being carried any
distance by land. — we had a light shower of rain about 4 P.M.
attended with some thunder and lightning. one beaver caught this morning.
the musquetoes are excessively troublesome to us. I have prepared my
composition which I should have put on this evening but the rain prevented
me.
[Clark, July 7, 1805]
July 7th Sunday 1805 A Warm day wind from the S. W Cloudy as usial, the
four men hunters did not return last night. dispatched 2 men to kill Elk
for the use of their Skin for the boat. my man York Sick, I give him a
dosh of Tarter. Some rain in the after part of the day in the evining the
hunters returned with three buffalow Skins two goat Skins, four Deer
Skins, two deer, & 3 wolve Skins, to be used in Covering the boat
Canoes & to make mockersons, one Elk also killed to day
[Lewis, July 8, 1805]
Monday July 8th 1805. Capt. Clark Determined to make a second effort to
replace the notes which he had made with rispect to the river and falls
accordingly he set out after an early breakfast and took with him the
greater part of the men with a view also to kill buffaloe should there be
any in that quarter. after geting some distance in the plains he divided
the party and sent them in different directions and himself and two others
struck the Missouri at the entrance of medicine river and continued down
it to the great Cataract, from whence he returned through the plains to
camp where he arrived late in the evening. the hunters also returned
having killed 3 buffaloe 2 Antelopes and a deer. he informed me that the
immence herds of buffaloe which we had seen for some time past in this
neighbourhood have almost entirely disappeared and he beleives are gone
down the river.
The day being warm and fair about 12 OCk. the boat was sufficiently dry to
receive a coat of the composition which I accordingly applyed. this adds
very much to her appearance whether it will be effectual or not. it gives
her hull the appearance of being formed of one solid piece. after the
first coat had cooled I gave her a second which I think has made it
sufficiently thick. The mountains which ly before us from the South, to
the N. W. still continue covered with snow. one hunter also passed the
river to hunt this morning in the evening he returned having killed a Buck
and a male Antelope. The party who were down with Capt. Clark also killed
a small fox which they brought with them. it was a female appeared to give
suck, otherwise it is so much like the comm small fox of this country
commonly called the kit fox that I should have taken it for a young one of
that species; however on closer examination it did apear to differ
somewhat; it's colour was of a lighter brown, it's years proportionably
larger, and the tale not so large or the hair not so long which formed it.
they are very delicately formed, exceedingly fleet, and not as large as
the common domestic cat. their tallons appear longer than any species of
fox I ever saw and seem therefore prepared more amply by nature for the
purpose of burrowing. there is sufficient difference for discrimination
between it and the kit fox, and to satisfy me perfectly that it is a
distinct species. the men also brought me a living ground squirrel which
is something larger than those of the U States or those of that kind which
are also common here. this is a much hadsomer anamal. like the other it's
principal colour is a redish brown but is marked longitudinally with a
much greater number of black or dark bron stripes; the spaces between
which is marked by ranges of pure white circular spots, about the size of
a brister blue shot. these colours imbrace the head neck back and sides;
the tail is flat, or the long hair projecting horizontally from two sides
of it only gives it that appearance. the belly and breast are of much
lighter brown or nearly white. this is an inhabitant of the open plain
altogether, wher it burrows and resides; nor is it like the other found
among clifts of rocks or in the woodlands. their burrows sometimes like
those of the mole run horizontally near the surface of the ground for a
considerable distance, but those in which they reside or take refuge
strike much deeper in the earth. — Slight rain this afternoon.
musquetoes troublesome as usual.
[Clark, July 8, 1805]
July 8th Monday 1805 A worm morning flying Clouds I deturmin take the
width of the river at the falls & the Medison river and to take the
greater part of the men which Can be Speared to Kill Buffalow for their
Skins as well as meat, devided the party & Sent them in different
directions to hunt & proceeded my Self to the mouth of Medison river
measured it and found it to be 137 yards wide, in the narrowest part of
the Missouri imediately above Medison river the Missouri is 300 yards
wide, below and a little above the falls 1440 yards wide with the
direction of the upper great fall 580 yards wide, at the great Spring 270
yards wide, at the handsom falls of 47 ft. 8 I. the river is 473 yards
wide, at the lower great falls the river is confined within 280 yards,
below the falls the water occupies 93 yards only — after takeing the
wedth of the river at those Sundery placies I returned thro the plains in
a direct line to Camp. Some rain this evening after a verry hot day. — the
mountains which are in view to the South & N W. are Covered with Snow.
those nearer us and forma 3/4 Circle around us is not Covered with Snow at
this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalow, two antelopes, & a Deer to
day — the emence herds of buffalow which was near us a fiew days ago,
has proceeded on down the river, we Can See but a fiew Bulls in the plains
[Lewis, July 9, 1805]
Tuesday July 9th 1805. The morning was fair and pleant. the Islands seem
crouded with blackbirds; the young brude is now completely feathered and
flying in common with the others. we corked the canoes and put them in the
water and also launched the boat, she lay like a perfect cork on the
water. five men would carry her with the greatest ease. I now directed
seats to be fixed in her and oars to be fitted. the men loaded the canoes
in readiness to depart. just at this moment a violent wind commenced and
blew so hard that we were obliged to unload the canoes again; a part of
the baggage in several of them got wet before it could be taken out. the
wind continued violent untill late in the evening, by which time we
discovered that a greater part of the composition had seperated from the
skins and left the seams of the boat exposed to the water and she leaked
in such manner that she would not answer. I need not add that this
circumstance mortifyed me not a little; and to prevent her leaking without
pich was impossible with us, and to obtain this article was equally
impossible, therefore the evil was irraparable I now found that the
section formed of the buffaloe hides on which some hair had been left,
answered much the best purpose; this leaked but little and the parts which
were well covered with hair about 1/8th of an inch in length retained the
composition perfectly and remained sound and dry. from these circumstances
I am preswaided, that had I formed her with buffaloe skins singed not
quite as close as I had done those I employed, that she would have
answered even with this composition. but to make any further experiments
in our present situation seemed to me madness; the buffaloe had
principally dserted us, and the season was now advancing fast. I therefore
relinquished all further hope of my favorite boat and ordered her to be
sunk in the water, that the skins might become soft in order the better to
take her in peices tomorrow and deposite the iron fraim at this place as
it could probably be of no further service to us. had I only singed my Elk
skins in stead of shaving them I beleive the composition would have
remained and the boat have answered; at least untill we could have reached
the pine country which must be in advance of us from the pine which is
brought down by the water and which is probably at no great distance where
we might have supplyed ourselves with the necessary pich or gum. but it
was now too late to introduce a remidy and I bid a dieu to my boat, and
her expected services. — The next difficulty which presented itself
was how we should convey the stores and baggage which we had purposed
carrying in the boat. both Capt. Clark and myself recollected having heard
the hunters mention that the bottoms of the river some few miles above us
were much better timbered than below and that some of the trees were
large. the idea therefore suggested itself of building two other canoes
sufficiently large to carry the surplus baggage. on enquiry of the hunters
it seemed to be the general opinion that trees sufficiently a large for
this purpose might be obtained in a bottom on the opposite side about 8
miles distant by land and reather more than double that distance by water;
accordingly Capt. Clark determined to set out early in the morning with
ten of the best workmen and proceede by land to that place while the
others would in the mean time be employed by myself in taking the Boat in
peices and depositing her, together with the articles which we had
previously determined to deposit at this place, and also in trasporting
all the baggage up the river to that point in the six small canoes. this
plan being settled between us orders were accordingly given to the party,
and the ten men who were to accompany Capt. Clark had ground and prepared
their axes and adds this evening in order to prepare for an early
departure in the morning. we have on this as well as on many former
occasions found a small grindstone which I brought with me from Harper's
ferry extreemly convenient to us. if we find trees at the place mentioned
sufficiently large for our purposes it will be extreemly fortunate; for we
have not seen one for many miles below the entrance of musselshell River
to this place, which would have answered.
[Clark, July 9, 1805]
July 9th Tuesday 1805 a clear worm morning wind from the S W. Lanced the
Leather boat, and found that it leaked a little; Corked Lanced &
loaded the Canoes, hurried our truk wheels, & made a Carsh for a Skin
& a fiew papers I intend to leave here on trial found the leather boat
would not answer without the addition of Tar which we had none of, haveing
Substituted Cole & Tallow in its place to Stop the Seams &c. which
would not answer as it Seperated from the Skins when exposed to the water
and left the Skins naked & Seams exposed to the water this falire of
our favourate boat was a great disapointment to us, we haveing more
baggage than our Canoes would Carry. Concluded to build Canoes for to
Carry them; no timber near our Camp. I deturmined to proceed on up the
river to a bottom in which our hunters reported was large Trees &c.
[Lewis, July 10, 1805]
Wednesday July 10th 1805. Capt. Clark set out with his party early this
morning and passed over to the opposite side. after which I dispatched
Sergt. Ordway with 4 Canoes and 8 men to take up a load of baggage as far
as Capt. Clark's camp and return for the remainder of our plunder. with
six others I now set to work on my boat, which had been previously drawn
out of the water before the men departed, and in two hours had her fraim
in readiness to be deposited. had a cash dug and deposited the Fraim of
the boat, some papers and a few other trivial articles of but little
importance. the wind blew very hard the greater part of the day. I also
had the truck wheels buried in the pit which had been made to hold the
tar. having nothing further to do I amused myself in fishing and caught a
few small fish; they were of the species of white chub mentioned below the
falls, tho they are small and few in number. I had thought on my first
arrival here that there were no fish in this part of the river. Capt.
Clark proceeded up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water 231/4) and
found 2 trees of Cottonwood and cut them down; one proved to be hollow and
split in falling at the upper part and was somewhat windshaken at bottom;
the other proved to be much windshaken. he surched the bottom for better
but could not find any he therefore determined to make canoes of those
which he had fallen; and to contract their length in such manner as to
clear the craks and the worst of the windsken parts making up the
deficiency by allowing them to be as wide as the trees would permit. they
were much at a loss for wood to make axhandles. the Chokecherry is the
best we can procure for this purpose and of that wood they made and broke
thir 13 handles in the course of this part of a day. had the eyes of our
axes been round they would have answered this country much better. the
musquetoes were very troublesome to them as well as ourselves today.
Sergt. Ordway proceeded up the river about 5 miles when the wind became so
violent that he was obliged to ly by untill late in the evening when he
again set out with the canoes and arrived within 3 miles of Capt. Clark's
Camp where he halted for the night. about five miles above whitebear camp
there are two Islands in the river covered with Cottonwood box alder and
some sweet willow also the undergrowth like that of the islands at this
place.
[Clark, July 10, 1805]
July 10th Wednesday 1805 a fair windey day wind hard the most of the day
from the S. W.rained modderately all last night (by Showers) we dispatched
Serjt. Ordway with 4 Canoes loaded & 8 men by water to assend as high
as I Should have found timber for Canoes & formed a Camp;-. I Set out
with Sergt. Pryor four Choppers two Involids & one man to hunt,
Crossed to the Std. Side and proceeded on up the river 8 miles by land
(distance by water 231/4 ms.) and found two Trees which I thought would
make Canoes, had them fallen, one of them proved to be hollow & Split
at one End & verry much win Shaken at the other, the other much win
Shaken, we Serched the bottoms for better trees and made a trial of
Several which proved to be more indifferent. I deturmined to make Canoes
out of the two first trees we had fallen, to Contract thir length so as to
clear the hollow & winshakes, & ad to the width as much as the
tree would allow. The Musquitors emencely noumerous & troublesom,
Killed two deer & a goat. The Canoes did not arrive as I expected,
owing to the hard wind which blew a head in maney places. we ar much at a
loss for wood to make ax hilthes,13 hath been made & broken in this
piece of a day by the four Choppers, no other wood but Cotton Box elder
Choke Cherry and red arrow wood. we Substitute the Cherry in place of
Hickory for ax hilthes ram rods, &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 11, 1805]
Thursday July 11th 1805. We had now nothing to do but wait for the canoes;
as they had not returned I sent out some of the small party with me to
hunt; in the evening they returned with a good quantity of the flesh of a
fat buffaloe which they had killed. the canoes not arrived this evening. I
saw several very large grey Eagles today they are a half as large again as
the common bald Eagle of this country. I do not think the bald Eagle here
qute so large as those of the U States; the grey Eagle is infinitely
larger and is no doubt a distinct species. this evening a little before
the sun set I heared two other discharges of this unaccounable artillery
of the Rocky Mountains proceeding from the same quarter that I had before
heard it. I now recollected the Minnetares making mention of the nois
which they had frequently heard in the Rocky Mountains like thunder; and
which they said the mountains made; but I paid no attention to the
information supposing it either false or the fantom of a supersticious
immagination. I have also been informed by the engages that the Panis and
Ricaras give the same account of the Black mountains which lye West of
them. this phenomenon the philosophy of the engages readily accounts for;
they state it to be the bursting of the rich mines of silver which these
mountains contain.
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched Bratton to meet the canoes which were
detained by the wind to get a couple of axes. he obtained the axes and
returned in about two hours. this man has been unable to work for several
days in consequence of a whitlow on one of his fingers; a complaint which
has been very common among the men. one of the canoes arrived at Capt.
Clarks camp about 10 A.M. this he had unloaded and set a few miles up the
river for a buffaloe which had been killed, the party sent killed another
in thir rout and brought in the flesh and skins of both they were in good
order; his hunters had also killed two deer and an Antelope yesterday. the
three other canoes did not arrive untill late in the evening in
consequence of the wind and the fear of weting their loads which consisted
of articles much more liable to be injured by moisture than those which
composed the load of that which arrived in the morning. Capt. C. had the
canoes unloaded and ordered them to float down in the course of the night
to my camp, but the wind proved so high after night that they were obliged
to put too about 8 miles above and remain untill morning. Capt. C. kept
the party with him busily engaged at the canoes. his hunters killed and
brought in three very fat deer this evening.
[Clark, July 11, 1805]
July 11th Thursday 1805 a fair windey morning wind S. W. I dispatch W
Bratten (who cannot work he haveing a turner rising on his finger) to meat
the Canoes & bring from them two axes, which is necessary for the work
at the perogues or Canoes, and is indespenceable he returned in about two
hours & informed that one Canoe was within three miles, about 1 oClock
the Canoe which Bratten left arrived haveing killed a Buffalow on the
river above our Camp, at which place the bend of the river below &
that above is about 1 mile apart, I dispatched Serjt. Pryor with 3 men in
the Canoe to get the meat they killed another buffalow near the one killed
and brought the meat of both down. at Sunset the 3 remaining Canoes
arrived unloaded & returned imeadeately with orders to flote down to
Camp at the portage to night for the purpose of takeing up the remaining
baggage. Musquitors verry troublesom, and in addition to their torments we
have a Small Knat, which is as disagreeable, our hunter killed 3 Deer to
day one of them verry fat. all the men with me engaged about the Canoes
hunting &c. &.
[Lewis, July 12, 1805]
Friday July 12th 1805. The canoes not having arrived and the wind still
high I dispatched Sergt. Gass with three men to join Capt. Clark and
assist in completing the canoes retaining only a few who in addition to
those in the canoes that I expect every moment, will be sufficient to man
the six canoes and take up all the baggage we have here at one load. I
feel excessively anxious to be moving on. the canoes were detained by the
wind untill 2 P.M. when they set out and arrived at this place so late
that I thought it best to detain them untill morning. Bratton came down
today for a cople of axes which I sent by him; he returned immediately.
Sergt. Gass and party joined Capt. Clark at 10 A.M. Capt. C. kept all the
men with him busily engaged some in drying meat, others in hunting, and as
many as could be employed about the canoes. Segt. Pryor got his sholder
dislocated yesterday, it was replaced immediately and is likely to do him
but little injury; it is painfull to him today. the hunters with Capt. C.
killed three deer and two otter today. the otter are now plenty since the
water has become sufficiently clear for them to take fish. the blue
crested fisher, or as they are sometimes called the Kingfisher, is an
inhabitant of this part of the country; this bird is very rare on the
Missouri; I have not seen more than three or four of those birds during my
voyage from the entrance of the Missouri to the mouth of Maria's river and
those few were reather the inhabitants of streams of clerer water which
discharged themselves into the Missouri than of that river, as they were
seen about the entrances of such streams. Musquetoes extreemly troublesome
to me today nor is a large black knat less troublesome, which dose not
sting, but attacks the eye in swarms and compells us to brush them off or
have our eyes filled with them. I made the men dry the ballance of the
freshe meet which we had abot the camp amounting to about 200 lbs.
[Clark, July 12, 1805]
July 12th Friday 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the S. W. all hands
at work at Day light Some at the Canoes, & others drying meat for our
voyage- Dispatched W. Brattin to the lower Camp for two axes which are
necessary to carry on our work at this place &. Serjt. Pryors Sholder
was put out of place yesterday Carrying Meat and is painfull to day. wind
hard all day dispatched 2 hunters, they returnd in the evening with three
Deer & 2 orters. four men arrived from the lower Camp by land to
assist at this place in building the Canoes &c. musquitors & knats
verry troublesom all day. a fiew wild pigions about our Camp.
[Lewis, July 13, 1805]
Saturday July 13th 1805. This morning being calm and Clear I had the
remainder of our baggage embarked in the six small canoes and maned them
with two men each. I now bid a cheerfull adue to my camp and passed over
to the opposite shore. Baptiest La Page one of the men whom I had reserved
to man the canoes being sick I sent Charbono in his stead by water and the
sick man and Indian woman accompanyed me by land. from the head of the
white bear Islands I passed in a S. W. direction and struck the Missouri
at 3 miles and continued up it to Capt. Clark's camp where I arrived about
9 A.M. and found them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c. in my
way I passed a very extraordinary Indian lodge, or at least the fraim of
one; it was formed of sixteen large cottonwood poles each about fifty feet
long and at their larger end which rested on the ground as thick as a
man's body; these were arranged in a circular manner at bottom and equally
distributed except the omission of one on the East side which I suppose
was the entrance to the lodge; the upper part of the poles are united in a
common point above and secured with large wyths of willow brush. in the
center of this fabric there was the remains of a large fire; and about the
place the marks of about 80 leather lodges. I know not what was the
intention or design of such a lodge but certain I am that it was not
designed for a dwelling of anyone family. it was 216 feet in
circumpherence at the base. it was most probably designed for some great
feast, or a council house on some great national concern. I never saw a
similar one nor do the nations lower down the Missouri construct such. The
canoes and party with Sergt. Ordway poceeded up the river about 5 miles
when the wind became so violent that two of the canoes shiped a
considerable quanty of water and they were compelled to put too take out
the baggage to dry and clense the canoes of the water. about 5 P.M. the
wind abated and they came on about 8 miles further and encamped. I saw a
number of turtledoves and some pigeons today. of the latter I shot one;
they are the same common to the United States, or the wild pigeon as they
are called. nothing remarkable in the appearance of the country; the
timber entirely confined to the river and the country back on either side
as far as the eye can reach entirely destitute of trees or brush. the
timber is larger and more abundant in the bottom in which we now are than
I have seen it on the Missouri for many hundred miles. the current of the
river is still extreemly gentle. The hunters killed three buffaloe today
which were in good order. the flesh was brought in dryed the skins wer
also streached for covering our baggage. we eat an emensity of meat; it
requires 4 deer, an Elk and a deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us
plentifully 24 hours. meat now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve
our flour parched meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky
mountains which we are shortly to enter, and where from the indhan account
game is not very abundant. I preserved specemines of several small plants
to day which I have never before seen. The Musquetoes and knats are more
troublesome here if possible than they were at the White bear Islands. I
sent a man to the canoes for my musquetoe bier which I had neglected to
bring with me, as it is impossible to sleep a moment without being
defended against the attacks of these most tormenting of all insects; the
man returned with it a little after dark.
[Clark, July 13, 1805]
July 13th Saturday 1805. a fair Calm Morning, verry Cool before day — we
were visited by a Buffalow Bull who came within a fiew Steps of one of the
Canoes the men were at work. Capt. Lewis one man &c. arrived over Land
at 9 oClock, the wind rose and blew hard from the S. E. the greater part
of the day both Canoes finished all to Corking & fixing ores &c.
&c. The Hunters killed 3 Buffalow the most of all the meat I had dried
for to make Pemitigon. The Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom all day
& night
[Lewis, July 14, 1805]
Sunday July 14th 1805. This morning was calm fair and warm; the Musquetoes
of course troublesome. all hands that could work were employed about the
canoes. which we completed and launched this evening. the one was 25 feet
and the other 33 feet in length and about 3 feet wide. we have now the
seats and oars to make and fit &c. I walked out today and ascended the
bluffs which are high rockey and steep; I continued my rout about 31/2
when I gained a conspicuous eminence about 2 mes. distant from the river a
little below the entrance of Fort Mountain Creek. from this place I had a
commanding view of the country and took the bearings of the following
places. (viz)
To the point at which the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains S. 28°
W. 25 To the termineation of the 1st Chain of Rocky Mountains;
northwardly, being that through which the Missouri first passes N. 73° W
80 To the extremity or tirmineation of 2cd Chain of the Rocky Mountains N.
65 W. 150 To the most distant point of a third and continued chain of the
same mts N. 50°W. 200 The direction of the 2cd Do. from S 45 E. to N.
45deg. W.
To Fort Mountain S. 75° W. 8
The country in most parts very level and in others swelling with gentle
rises and decents, or in other wirds what I have heretofore designated a
wavy country destitute of timber except along the water-courses. On my
return to camp found Sergt. Ordway had arrived with all the canoes about
noon and had unloaded them every preperation except the entire completion
of the oars poles &c is made for our departure tomorrow. the grass and
weeds in this bottom are about 2 feet high; which is a much greater hight
than we have seen them elsewhere this season. here I found the sand rush
and nittles in small quantities. the grass in the plains is not more than
3 inches high. grasshoppers innumerable in the plains and the small birds
before noticed together with the brown Curlooe still continue nomerous in
every part of the plains.
had a slight shower at 4 P.M. this evening.
[Clark, July 14, 1805]
July 14th Sunday 1805 a fine morning Calm and worm musquetors & Knats
verry troublesom. The Canoes arrive at 12 oClock & unloade to Dry
&c. finished & Lanced the 2 Canoes, Some rain this afternoon. all
prepareing to Set out on tomorrow.
[Lewis, July 15, 1805]
Monday July 15th 1805. We arrose very early this morning, assigned the
canoes their loads and had it put on board. we now found our vessels eight
in number all heavily laden, notwithstanding our several deposits; tho it
is true we have now a considerable stock of dryed meat and grease. we find
it extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men within
reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles of but little use or
value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more saw ourselves fairly under way much
to my joy and I beleive that of every individual who compose the party. I
walked on shore and killed 2 Elk near one of which the party halted and
dined. we took the skins marrow bones and a part of the flesh of these
Elk. in order to lighten the burthen of the canoes I continued my walk all
the evening and took our only invalledes Potts an LaPage with me. we
passed the river near where we dined and just above the entrance of a
beautifull river 80 yards wide which falls in on the Lard. side which in
honour of Mr. Robert Smith the Secretary of the Navy we called Smith's
River. this stream meanders through a most lovely valley to the S. E. for
about 25 miles when it enters the Rocky mountains and is concealed from
our view. many herds of buffaloe were feeding in this valley. we again
crossed the river to the Stard. side and passed through a plain and struck
the river at a Northwardly bend where there was timber here we waited
untill the canoes arrived by which time it was so late that we concluded
to encamp for the night. here Drewyer wouded a deer which ran into the
river my dog pursued caught it drowned it and brought it to shore at our
camp. we have now passed Fort Mountain on our right it appears to be about
ten miles distant. this mountain has a singular appearance it is situated
in a level plain, it's sides stand nearly at right angles with each other
and are each about a mile in extent. these are formed of a yellow clay
only without the mixture of rock or stone of any size and rise
perpendicularly to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level
plain and from the eminence on which I was yesterday I could see that it
was covered with a similar cost of grass with the plain on which it
stands. the surface appears also to possess a tolerable fertile mole of 2
feet thick. and is to all appearance inaccessible. from it's figure we
gave it the name of fort mountain. those mounds before mentioned near the
falls have much the same appearance but are none of them as large as this
one. the prickly pear is now in full blume and forms one of the beauties
as well as the greatest pests of the plains. the sunflower is also in
blume and is abundant. this plant is common to every part of the Missouri
from it's entrance to this place. the lambsquarter, wild coucumber, sand
rush and narrow dock are also common here. Drewyer killed another deer and
an Otter today. we find it inconvenient to take all the short meanders of
the river which has now become cooked and much narrower than below, we
therefore take it's general course and lay down the small bends by the eye
on our daily traverse or chart. the river is from too to 150 yds. wide.
more timber on the river than below the falls for a great distance. on the
banks of the river there are many large banks of sand much elivated above
the plains on which they ly and appear as if they had been collected in
the course of time from the river by the almost incessant S. W. winds;
they always appear on the sides of the river opposite to those winds.
The couses and distances from the White bear islands to the camp at which
we made the canoes as taken by Sergt. Ordway.
[Clark, July 15, 1805]
July 15th Monday 1805 rained all the last night I was wet all night this
morning wind hard from the S. W. we Set out at 10 oClock and proceeded on
verry well passed a river on the Lard Side about 80 yards wide which we
Call after the Secy of the Navey Smiths River the river verry Crooked
bottoms extensive rich and Passes thro a butifull vally between 2 mts.
Conts. high grass, our Canoes being So Small Several of the men Capt.
Lewis & my Self Compelled to walked on Shore & Cross the bends to
keep up with the Canoes — a round mountain on our right abt. 10 miles
appears inaxcessable we Call fort mountain. The Prickley pear in bloom but
fiew other flowers. Sun flowr are common, also lambs quarter &
Nettles. Capt Lew Killed 2 Elk & the hunters killed 2 Deer & a
Ortter, we Camped on the Stard Side at which place I Saw many beaver, the
timber on the edge of the river more Common than below the falls — as
I am compelled to walk on Shore find it verry dificuelt to take the
Courses of the river, as it is verry Crooked more So than below
[Lewis, July 16, 1805]
Tuesday July 16th 1805. We had a heavy dew last night sen one man back
this morning for an ax that he had carelessly left last evening some miles
below, and set out at an early hour. early this morning we passed about 40
little booths formed of willow bushes to shelter them from the sun; they
appeared to have been deserted about 10 days; we supposed that they were
snake Indians. they appeared to have a number of horses with them-. this
appearance gives me much hope of meeting with these people shortly.
Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning near the river and we halted and
breakfasted on it. here for the first time I ate of the small guts of the
buffaloe cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any
preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very good. After
breakfast I determined to leave Capt. C. and party, and go on to the point
where the river enters the Rocky Mountains and make the necessary
observations against their arrival; accordingly I set out with the two
invalleds Potts and LaPage and Drewyer; I passed through a very handsome
level plain on the Stard. side of the river, the country equally level and
beautiful) on the opposite side; at the distance of 8 mes. passed a small
stream on which I observed a considerable quantity of aspin. a little
before 12 I halted on the river at a Stard. bend and well timbered bottom
about 41/2 miles below the mountains and made the following observation.
after this observation we pursued our rout through a high roling plain to
a rappid immediately at the foot of the mountain where the Missouri first
enters them. the current of the missouri below these rappids is strong for
several miles, tho just above there is scarcely any current, the river
very narrow and deep abot 70 yds. wide only and seems to be closely hemned
in by the mountains on both sides, the bottoms only a few yards in width.
an Indian road enters the mountain at the same place with the river on the
Stard side and continues along it's border under the steep clifts these
mountains appear to be only about 800 feet above the river and are formed
almost entirely of a hard black grannite. with a few dwarf pine and cedar
scattered on them. at this place there is a large rock of 400 feet high
wich stands immediately in the gap which the missouri makes on it's
passage from the mountains; it is insulated from the neighbouring
mountains by a handsome little plain which surrounds it base on 3 sides
and the Missouri washes it's base on the other, leaving it on the Lard. as
it decends. this rock I called the tower. it may be ascended with some
difficulty nearly to it's summit, and from it there is a most pleasing
view of the country we are now about to leave. from it I saw this evening
immence herds of buffaloe in the plains below. near this place we killed a
fat elk on which we both dined and suped. the Musquetoes are extreemly
troublesome this evening and I had left my bier, of course suffered
considerably, and promised in my wrath that I never will be guily of a
similar peice of negligence while on this voyage.
[Clark, July 16, 1805]
July 16th Tuesday 1805 a fair morning after a verry cold night, heavy dew,
dispatched one man back for an ax left a fiew miles below, and Set out
early Killed a Buffalow on which we Brackfast Capt Lewis & 3 men went
on to the mountain to take a meridian altitude, passed about 40 Small
Camps, which appeared to be abandoned about 10 or 12 days, Suppose they
were Snake Indians, a fiew miles above I Saw the poles Standing in thir
position of a verry large lodge of 60 feet Diamater, & the appearance
of a number of Leather Lodges about, this Sign was old & appeared to
have been last fall great number of buffalow the river is not So wide as
below from 100 to 150 yards wide & Deep Crouded with Islands &
Crooked Some Scattering timber on its edge Such as Cotton wood Cotton
willow, willow and box elder, the Srubs are arrow wod, red wood, Choke
Cherry, red berries, Goose beries, Sarvis burey, red & yellow Currents
a Spcie of Shomake &c.
I camped on the head of a Small Island near the Stard. Shore at the Rockey
Mountains this Range of mountains appears to run N W & S E and is
about 800 feet higher than the Water in the river faced with a hard black
rock the current of the River from the Medison river to the mountain is
gentle bottoms low and extensive, and its General Course is S. 10° W.
about 30 miles on a direct line
[Lewis, July 17, 1805]
Wednesday July 17th 1805. The sunflower is in bloom and abundant in the
river bottoms. The Indians of the Missouri particularly those who do not
cultivate maze make great uce of the seed of this plant for bread, or use
it in thickening their scope. they most commonly first parch the seed and
then pound them between two smooth stones until) they reduce it to a fine
meal. to this they sometimes mearly add a portion of water and drink it in
that state, or add a sufficient quantity of marrow grease to reduce it to
the consistency of common dough and eate it in that manner. the last
composition I think much best and have eat it in that state heartily and
think it a pallateable dish. there is but little of the broad leafed
cottonwood above the falls, much the greater portion being of the narrow
leafed kind. there are a great abundance of red yellow perple & black
currants, and service berries now ripe and in great perfection. I find
these fruits very pleasent particularly the yellow currant which I think
vastly preferable to those of our gardens. the shrub which produces this
fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet; the stem simple branching and
erect. they grow closly ascociated in cops either in the oppen or timbered
lands near the watercouses. the leaf is petiolate of a pale green and
resembles in it's form that of the red currant common to our gardens. the
perianth of the fructification is one leaved, five cleft, abreviated and
tubular, the corolla is monopetallous funnel-shaped; very long, superior,
withering and of a fine orrange colour. five stamens and one pistillum; of
the first, the fillaments are capillare, inserted into the corolla, equal,
and converging; the anther ovate, biffid and incumbent. with rispect to
the second the germ is roundish, smoth, inferior pedicelled and small; the
style, long, and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical, smooth,
and erect, withering and remains with the corolla untill the fruit is
ripe. stigma simple obtuse and withering. — the fruit is a berry about
the size and much the shape of the red currant of our gardins, like them
growing in clusters supported by a compound footstalk, but the peduncles
which support the several berries are longer in this species and the
berries are more scattered. it is quite as transparent as the red current
of our gardens, not so ascid, & more agreeably flavored. the other
species differ not at all in appearance from the yellow except in the
colour and flavor of their berries. I am not confident as to the colour of
the corolla, but all those which I observed while in blume as we came up
the Missouri were yellow but they might possibly have been all of the
yellow kind and that the perple red and black currants here may have
corollas of different tints from that of the yellow currant. — The
survice berry differs somewhat from that of the U States the bushes are
small sometimes not more than 2 feet high and scarcely ever exceed 8 and
are proportionably small in their stems, growing very thickly ascosiated
in clumps. the fruit is the same form but for the most part larger more
lucious and of so deep a perple that on first sight you would think them
black. — there are two species of goosbirris here allso but neither of
them yet ripe. the choke cherries also abundant and not yet ripe. there is
Box alder, red willow and a species of sumac here also. there is a large
pine tree situated on a small island at the head of these rappids above
our camp; it being the first we have seen for a long distance near the
river I called the island pine island. This range of the rocky mountains
runs from S E to N. W. — at 8 A.M. this morning Capt. Clark arrived
with the party. we took breakfast here, after which I had the box which
contained my instruments taken by land arround tower rock to the river
above the rappid; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without
loss or injury, with their loads.
After making those observations we proceed, and as the canoes were still
heavy loaded all persons not employed in navigating the canoes walled on
shore. the river clifts were so steep and frequently projecting into the
river with their perpendicular points in such manner that we could not
pass them by land, we wer therefore compelled to pass and repass the river
very frequently in the couse of the evening. the bottoms are narrow the
river also narrow deep and but little current. river from 70 to 100 yds.
wide. but little timber on the river aspin constitutes a part of that
little. see more pine than usual on the mountains tho still but thinly
scattered. we saw some mountain rams or bighorned anamals this evening,
and no other game whatever and indeed there is but little appearance of
any. in some places both banks of the river are formed for a short
distance of nearly perpendicular rocks of a dark black grannite of great
hight; the river has the appearance of having cut it's passage in the
course of time through this solid rock. we ascended about 6 miles this
evening from the entrance of the mountain and encamped on the Stard. side
where we found as much wood as made our fires. musquetoes still
troublesome knats not as much so. — Capt. C. now informed me that
after I left him yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge in praire on
the Stard. side of the river which was 60 feet in diameter and appeared to
have been built last fall; there were the remains of about 80 leather
lodges near the place of the same apparent date. This large lodge was of
the same construction of that mentioned above the white bear Islands. the
party came on very well and encamped on the lower point of an island near
the Stard. shore on that evening. this morning they had set out early and
proceeded without obstruction untill they reached the rappid where I was
encamped.
[Clark, July 17, 1805]
July 17th Wednesday 1805 Set out early this morning and Crossed the rapid
at the Island Cald pine rapid with Some dificuelty, at this rapid I came
up with Capt Lewis & party took a Medn. altitude & we took Some
Luner Observations &c. and proceeded on, the emence high Precipies
oblige all the party to pass & repass the river from one point to
another the river confined in maney places in a verry narrow Chanel from
70 to 120 yards wide bottoms narrow without timber and maney places the
mountain approach on both Sides, we observe great deel of Scattering pine
on the mountains, Some aspin, Spruce & fur trees took a meridian altd.
which gave for Lattitude 46° 42' 14" 7/10 N we proceeded on verry well
about 8 miles & Camped on the Stard Side The river crooked bottoms
narrow, Clifts high and Steep, I assended a Spur of the Mountain which I
found to be highe & dificuelt of axcess, Containig Pitch Pine &
Covered with grass Scercely any game to be Seen The yellow Current now
ripe also the fussey red Choke Cheries getting ripe Purple Current are
also ripe. Saw Several Ibex or mountain rams to day
[Lewis, July 18, 1805]
Thursday July 18th 1805. Set out early this morning. previous to our
departure saw a large herd of the Bighorned anamals on the immencely high
and nearly perpendicular clift opposite to us; on the fase of this clift
they walked about and hounded from rock to rock with apparent unconcern
where it appared to me that no quadruped could have stood, and from which
had they made one false step they must have been precipitated at least a
500 feet. this anamal appears to frequent such precepices and clifts where
in fact they are perfectly secure from the pursuit of the wolf, bear, or
even man himself. — at the distance of 21/2 miles we passed the
entrance of a considerable river on the Stard. side; about 80 yds. wide
being nearly as wide as the Missouri at that place. it's current is rapid
and water extreamly transparent; the bed is formed of small smooth stones
of flat rounded or other figures. it's bottoms are narrow but possess as
much timber as the Missouri. the country is mountainous and broken through
which it passes. it appears as if it might be navigated but to what extent
must be conjectural. this handsome bold and clear stream we named in
honour of the Secretary of war calling it Dearborn's river. as we were
anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as soon as possible
in order to obtain information relative to the geography of the country
and also if necessary, some horses we thought it better for one of us
either Capt. C. or myself to take a small party & proceed on up the
river, some distance before the canoes, in order to discover them, should
they be on the river before the daily discharge of our guns, which was
necessary in procuring subsistence for the party, should allarm and cause
them to retreat to the mountains and conceal themselves, supposing us to
be their enemies who visit them usually by the way of this river.
accordingly Capt. Clark set out this morning after breakfast with Joseph
Fields, Pots and his servant York. we proceeded on tolerably well; the
current stonger than yesterday we employ the cord and oars principally tho
sometimes the setting pole. in the evening we passed a large creek about
30 yds. wide which disembogues on the Stard. side; it discharges a bold
current of water it's banks low and bed frormed of stones altogether; this
stream we called Ordway's creek after Sergt. John Ordway. I have observed
for several days a species of flax growing in the river bottoms the leaf
stem and pericarp of which resembles the common flax cultivated in the U
States. the stem rises to the hight of about 21/2 or 3 feet high; as many
as 8 or ten of which proceede from the same root. the root appears to be
perennial. the bark of the stem is thick strong and appears as if it would
make excellent Hax. the seed are not yet ripe but I hope to have an
opportunity of collecting some of them after they are so if it should on
experiment prove to yeald good flax and at the same time admit of being
cut without injuring the perennial root it will be a most valuable plant,
and I think there is the greatest probability that it will do so, for
notwithstanding the seed have not yet arrived at maturity it is puting up
suckers or young shoots from the same root and would seem therefore that
those which are fully grown and which are in the proper stage of
vegitation to produce the best fax are not longer essencial to the
preservation or support of the root. the river somewhat wider than
yesterday and the mountains more distant from the river and not so high;
the bottoms are but narrow and little or no timber near the river. some
pine on the mountains which seems principally confined to their uper
region. we killed one Elk this morning and found part of the flesh and the
skin of a deer this evening which had been kited and left by Capt. Clark.
we saw several herds of the Bighorn but they were all out of our reach on
inacessable clifts. we encamped on the Lard. side in a small grove of
narrow leafed cottonwood there is not any of the broad leafed cottonwood
on the river since it has entered the mountains. Capt Clark ascended the
river on the Stard. side. in the early part of the day after he left me
the hills were so steep that he gained but little off us; in the evening
he passed over a mountain by which means he cut off many miles of the
river's circuitous rout; the Indian road which he pursued over this
mountain is wide and appears as if it had been cut down or dug in many
places; he passed two streams of water, the branches of Ordway's creek, on
which he saw a number of beaver dams succeeding each other in close order
and extending as far up those streams as he could discover them in their
couse towards the mountains. he also saw many bighorn anamals on the
clifts of the mountains. not far beyond the mountain which he passed in
the evening he encamped on a small stream of runing water. having
travelled about 20 m. the water of those rivulets which make down from
these mountains is extreemly cold pure and fine. the soil near the river
is of a good quality and produces a luxuriant growth of grass and weeds;
among the last the sunflower holds a distinguished place. the aspin is
small but grows very commonly on the river and small streams which make
down from the Mouts.
I also observed another species of flax today which is not so large as the
first, sildome obtaining a greater hight than 9 Inches or a foot the stem
and leaf resemble the other species but the stem is rarely branched,
bearing a single monopetallous bellshaped blue flower which is suspended
with it's limb downwards,
[Clark, July 18, 1805]
July 18th Tursday 1805 a fine morning passed a Considerable river which
falls in on the Stard Side and nearly as wide as the Missouri we call
Dearbournes river after the Sety. of war. we thought it prudent for a
partey to go a head for fear our fireing Should allarm the Indians and
cause them to leave the river and take to the mountains for Safty from
their enemes who visit them thro this rout. I deturmined to go a head with
a Small partey a few days and find the Snake Indians if possible after
brackfast I took J. Fields Potts & my Servent proceeded on. the
Country So Hilley that we gained but little of the Canoes untill in the
evening I passed over a mountain on an Indian rode by which rout I cut off
Several miles of the Meanderings of the River, the roade which passes this
mountain is wide and appears to have been dug in maney places, we Camped
on a Small run of Clear Cold water, musquitors verry troublesom the
forepart of the evening I Saw great maney Ibex. we Crossed two Streams of
running water on those Streams I saw Several Beaver dams. ordway Creek the
Countrey is Mountanious & rockey except the valey &c. which is
Covered with earth of a good quallity without timber, The timber which is
principally pitch pine is Confined to the mountains, the Small runs &
Creeks which have water running in them Contain Cotton-Willow, Willow,
& aspin. trees all Small I Saw maney fine Springs & Streams of
running water which Sink & rise alternately in the Valies the water of
those Streams are fine, those Streams which run off into the river are
darned up by the beaver from near ther mouthes up as high as I could See
up them
[Lewis, July 19, 1805]
Friday July 19th 1805 The Musquetoes are very troublesome to us as usual.
this morning we set out early and proceeded on very well tho the water
appears to encrease in volocity as we advance. the current has been strong
all day and obstructed with some rapids, tho these are but little broken
by rocks and are perfectly safe. the river deep and from 100 to 150 yds.
wide. I walked along shore today and killed an Antelope. whever we get a
view of the lofty summits of the mountains the snow presents itself, altho
we are almost suffocated in this confined vally with heat. the pine cedar
and balsum fir grow on the mountains in irregular assemleages or spots
mostly high up on their sides and summits. this evening we entered much
the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. these clifts rise from
the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the hight of 1200 feet.
every object here wears a dark and gloomy aspect. the towering and
projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble on us. the river
appears to have forced it's way through this immence body of solid rock
for the distance of 53/4 miles and where it makes it's exit below has
thown on either side vast collumns of rocks mountains high. the river
appears to have woarn a passage just the width of it's channel or 150 yds.
it is deep from side to side nor is ther in the 1st 3 miles of this
distance a spot except one of a few yards in extent on which a man could
rest the soal of his foot. several fine springs burst out at the waters
edge from the interstices of the rocks. it happens fortunately that altho
the current is strong it is not so much so but what it may be overcome
with the oars for there is hear no possibility of using either the cord or
Setting pole. it was late in the evening before I entered this place and
was obliged to continue my rout untill sometime after dark before I found
a place sufficiently large to encamp my small party; at length such an one
occurred on the lard. side where we found plenty of lightwood and
pichpine. this rock is a black grannite below and appears to be of a much
lighter colour above and from the fragments I take it to be flint of a
yelloish brown and light creemcolourd yellow. — from the singular
appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains. the
mountains higher today than yesterday, saw some Bighorns and a few
Antelopes also beaver and Otter; the latter are now very plenty one of the
men killed one of them today with a setting pole. musquetoes less
troublesome than usual. we had a thundershower today about 1 P.M. which
continued about an hour and was attended with som hail. we have seen no
buffaloe since we entered the mounts. this morning early Capt. Clark
pursued his rout, saw early in the day the remains of several Indians
camps formed of willow brush which appeared to have been inhabited some
time this spring. saw where the natives had pealed the bark off the pine
trees about this same season. this the indian woman with us informs that
they do to obtain the sap and soft part of the wood and bark for food. at
11 A.M. Capt. C. feell in with a gang of Elk of which he killed 2. and not
being able to obtain as much wood as would make a fire substituded the
dung of the buffaloe and cooked a part of their meat on which they
breakfasted and again pursueed their rout, which lay along an old indian
road. this evening they passed a hansome valley watered by a large creek
which extends itself with it's valley into the mountain to a considerable
distance. the latter part of the evening their rout lay over a hilly and
mountanous country covered with the sharp fragments of flint which cut and
bruised their feet excessively; nor wer the prickly pear of the leveler
part of the rout much less painfull; they have now become so abundant in
the open uplands that it is impossible to avoid them and their thorns are
so keen and stif that they pearce a double thickness of dressed deers skin
with ease. Capt. C. informed me that he extracted 17 of these bryers from
his feet this evening after he encamped by the light of the fire. I have
guarded or reather fortifyed my feet against them by soaling my mockersons
with the hide of the buffaloe in parchment. he encamped on the river much
fortiegud having passed two mountains in the course of the day and
travelled about 30 miles.
[Clark, July 19, 1805]
July 19th Fryday 1805 a find morning I proceeded on in an Indian path
river verry crooked passed over two mountains Saw Several Indian Camps
which they have left this Spring. Saw trees Peeled & found poles &c.
at 11 oC I Saw a gange of Elk as we had no provision Concluded to kill
Some Killd two and dined being oblige to Substitute dry buffalow dung in
place of wood, this evening passed over a Cream Coloured flint which roled
down from the Clifts into the bottoms, the Clifts Contain flint a dark
grey Stone & a redish brown intermixed and no one Clift is Solid rock,
all the rocks of everry description is in Small pices appears to have been
broken by Some Convulsion — passed a butifull Creek on the Std. Side
this eveng which meanders thro a butifull Vallie of great extent, I call
after Sgt Pryor the countrey on the Lard Side a high mountain Saw Several
Small rapids to day the river Keep its width and appear to be deep, my
feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, &
constantly Stuck full Prickley pear thorns, I puled out 17 by the light of
the fire to night We camped on the river Same (Lard) Side Musqutors verry
troublesom.
[Lewis, July 20, 1805]
Saturday 20 h 1805. Set out early this morning as usual, currant strong,
we therefore employ the toe rope when ever the banks permit the use of it;
the water is reather deep for the seting pole in most places. at 6 A.M.
the hills retreated from the river and the valley became wider than we
have seen it since we entered the mountains. some scattering timber on the
river and in the valley. consisting of the narrowleafed Cottonwood aspin
& pine. vas numbers of the several species of currants goosberries and
service berries; of each of these I preserved some seeds. I found a black
currant which I thought preferable in flavor to the yellow. this currant
is really a charming fruit and I am confident would be prefered at our
markets to any currant now cultivated in the U States. we killed an Elk
this morning which was very acceptable to us. through the valley which we
entered early in the morning a large creek flows from the mountains and
discharges itself into the river behind an island on Stard. side about 15
yds. wide this we called Potts's Creek after John Potts one of our party.
about 10 A.M. we saw the smoke arrose as if the country had been set on
fire up the valley of this creek about 7 ms. distant we were at a loss to
determine whether it had been set on fire by the natives as a signall
among themselves on discovering us, as is their custom or whether it had
been set on fire by Capt. C. and party accedentally. the first however
proved to be the fact, they had unperceived by us discovered Capt. Clark's
party or mine, and had set the plain on fire to allarm the more distant
natives and fled themselves further into the interior of the mountains.
this evening we found the skin of an Elk and part of the flesh of the
anamal which Capt. C. had left near the river at the upper side of the
valley where he assended the mountain with a note informing me of his
transactions and that he should pass the mounts which lay just above us
and wate our arrival at some convenient place on the river. the other elk
which Capt. C. had killed we could not find. about 2 in the evening we had
passed through a range of low mountains and the country bacame more open
again, tho still broken and untimbered and the bottoms not very extensive.
we encamped on the Lard. side near a spring on a high bank the prickly
pears are so abundant that we could scarcely find room to lye. just above
our camp the river is again closed in by the Mouts. on both sides. I saw a
black woodpecker today about the size of the lark woodpecker as black as a
crow. I indevoured to get a shoot at it but could not. it is a distinct
species of woodpecker; it has a long tail and flys a good deel like the
jay bird.
This morning Capt. Clark set out early and proceeded on through a valley
leaving the river about six miles to his left; he fell in with an old
Indian road which he pursued untill it struck the river about 18 miles
from his camp of the last evening just above the entrance of a large creek
which we call white paint Creek. the party were so much fortiegued with
their march and their feet cut with the flint and perced with the prickly
pears untill they had become so painfull that he proceeded but little
further before he determined to encamp on the river and wait my arrival. — Capt.
C. saw a smoke today up the valley of Pryor's creek which was no doubt
caused by the natives likewise. he left signals or signs on his rout in
order to inform the indians should they pursue his trale that we were not
their enemies, but white men and their friends. — cloth &c
[Clark, July 20, 1805]
July 20th Satturday 1805 a fine morning we proceded on thro a valley
leaveing the river about 6 miles to our left and fell into an Indian roade
which took us to the river above the mo. of a Creek 18 miles The
Misquetors verry troublesom my man York nearly tired out, the bottoms of
my feet blistered. I observe a Smoke rise to our right up the Valley of
the last Creek about 12 miles distant, The Cause of this Smoke I can't
account for certainly tho think it probable that the Indians have heard
the Shooting of the Partey below and Set the Praries or Valey on fire to
allarm their Camps; Supposeing our party to be a war party comeing against
them, I left Signs to Shew the Indians if they Should come on our trail
that we were not their enemeys. Camped on the river, the feet of the men
with me So Stuck with Prickley pear & cut with the Stones that they
were Scerseley able to march at a Slow gate this after noon
[Lewis, July 21, 1805]
Sunday July 21st 1805. Set out early this morning and passed a bad rappid
where the river enters the mountain about 1 m. from our camp of last
evening the Clifts high and covered with fragments of broken rocks. the
current strong; we employed the toe rope principally, and also the pole as
the river is not now so deep but reather wider and much more rapid our
progress was therefore slow and laborious. we saw three swans this
morning, which like the geese have not yet recovered the feathers of the
wing and could not fly we killed two of them the third escaped by diving
and passed down with the current; they had no young ones with them
therefore presume they do not breed in this country these are the first we
have seen on the river for a great distance. we daily see great numbers of
gees with their young which are perfectly feathered except the wings which
are deficient in both young and old. my dog caught several today, as he
frequently dose. the young ones are very fine, but the old gees are poor
and unfit for uce. saw several of the large brown or sandhill Crain today
with their young. the young Crain is as large as a turkey and cannot fly
they are of a bright red bey colour or that of the common deer at this
season. this bird feeds on grass prinsipally and is found in the river
bottoms. the grass near the river is lofty and green that of the hill
sides and high open grounds is perfectly dry and appears to be scorched by
the heat of the sun. the country was rough mountainous & much as that
of yesterday untill towards evening when the river entered a beautifull
and extensive plain country of about 10 or 12 miles wide which extended
upwards further that the eye could reach this valley is bounded by two
nearly parallel ranges of high mountains which have their summits
partially covered with snow. below the snowey region pine succeeds and
reaches down their sides in some parts to the plain but much the greater
portion of their surfaces is uncovered with timber and expose either a
barren sterile soil covered with dry parched grass or black and rugged
rocks. the river immediately on entering this valley assumes a different
aspect and character, it spreads to a mile and upwards in width crouded
with Islands, some of them large, is shallow enough for the use of the
seting pole in almost every part and still more rappid than before; it's
bottom is smooth stones and some large rocks as it has been since we have
entered the mountains. the grass in these extensive bottoms is green and
fine, about 18 inches or 2 feet high. the land is a black rich loam and
appears very fertile. we encamped in this beatiful valley on the Lard.
side the party complain of being much fatiegued with this days travel. we
killed one deer today. — This morning we passed a bold creek 28 yds.
wide which falls in on Stard. side. it has a handsome and an extensive
valley. this we called Pryor's Creek after Sergt. (John) Pryor one of our
party. I also saw two fesants today of a dark brown colour much larger
than the phesant of the U States.
this morning Capt. Clark having determined to hunt and wait my arrival
somewhere about his preset station was fearfull that some indians might
still be on the river above him sufficiently near to hear the report of
his guns and therefore proceeded up, the river about three miles and not
finding any indians nor discovering any fresh appearance of them returned
about four miles below and fixed his camp near the river; after refreshing
themselves with a few hours rest they set out in different directions to
hunt. Capt C. killed a buck and Fields a buck and doe. he caught a young
curlooe which was nearly feathered. the musquetoes were equally as
troublesome to them as to ourselves this evening; tho some hours after
dark the air becomes so cold that these insects disappear. the men are all
fortunately supplyed with musquetoe biers otherwise it would be impossible
for them to exist under the fatiegues which they daily encounter without
their natural rest which they could not obtain for those tormenting
insects if divested of their biers. timber still extreemly scant on the
river but there is more in this valley than we have seen since we entered
the mountains; the creeks which fall into the river are better supplyed
with this article than the river itself.
we saw a number of trout today since the river has become more shallow;
also caught a fish of a white colour on the belly and sides and of a
bluish cast on the back which had been accedentally wounded by a setting
pole. it had a long pointed mouth which opened somewhat like the shad.
[Clark, July 21, 1805]
July 21st Sunday 1805 a fine morning our feet So brused and Cut that I
deturmined to delay for the Canoes, & if possible kill Some meat by
the time they arrived, all the Creeks which fall into the Missouri on the
Std. Side Since entering the Mountains have extencive Valies of open
Plain. the river bottoms Contain nothing larger than a Srub untill above
the last Creek the Creeks & runs have timber on them generally, the
hills or mountains are in Some places thickly covered with pine &
Cedar &c. &c. I proceeded on about 3 miles this morning finding no
fresh Indian Sign returned down the river four miles and Camped, turned
out to hunt for Some meat, which if we are Suckessfull will be a
Seasonable Supply for the partey assending. emence quantities of Sarvice
buries, yellow, red, Purple & black Currents ripe and Superior to any
I ever tasted particularly the yellow & purple kind. Choke Cheries are
Plenty; Some Goose buries — The wild rose Continue the Willow more
abundant no Cotton wood of the Common kind Small birds are plenty, Some
Deer, Elk, Goats, and Ibex; no buffalow in the Mountains.
Those mountains are high and a great perportion of them rocky Vallies
fertile I observe on the highest pinicals of Some of the mountains to the
West Snow lying in Spots Some Still further North are covered with Snow
and cant be Seen from this point The Winds in those mountains are not
Settled generally with the river, to day the wind blow hard from the West
at the Camp. The Missouri Continus its width the Current Strong and
Crouded with little Islands and Cose graveley bars; but little fine Sand
the Chanel generally a Corse gravel or Soft mud. Musquetors & Knats
verry troublesom. I killed a Buck, and J. Fields killed a Buck and Doe
this evening. Cought a young Curlough.
[Lewis, July 22, 1805]
Monday July 22cd 1805. We set out early as usual. The river being divided
into such a number of channels by both large and small Island that I found
it impossible to lay it down correctly following one channel only in a
canoe and therefore walked on shore took the general courses of the river
and from the rising grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different
channels which I laid don in conformity thereto on my chart. there being
but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's various meanders
very satisfactorily. I passed though a large Island which I found a
beautifull level and fertile plain about 10 feet above the surface of the
water and never overflown. on this Island I met with great quantities of a
smal onion about the size of a musquit ball and some even larger; they
were white crisp and well flavored I geathered about half a bushel of them
before the canoes arrived. I halted the party for breakfast and the men
also geathered considerable quantities of those onions. it's seed had just
arrived to maturity and I gathered a good quantity of it. This appears to
be a valuable plant inasmuch as it produces a large quantity to the squar
foot and bears with ease the rigor of this climate, and withall I think it
as pleasantly flavored as any species of that root I ever tasted. I called
this beatifull and fertile island after this plant Onion Island. here I
passed over to the stard. shore where the country was higher and ascended
the river to the entrance of a large creek which discharges itself into
the Missouri on the Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty
considerable creeks which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few
miles before it discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the
canoes to arrive I killed an otter which sunk to the bottom on being shot,
a circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water was about 8 feet deep
yet so clear that I could see it at the bottom; I swam in and obtained it
by diving. I halted the party here for dinner; the canoes had taken
different channels through these islands and it was sometime before they
all came up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my custom
about 4 P.M. and after dinner set out without it and had proceeded near a
mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway back for it, he found it
and brought it on. the murcury stood at 80 a. 0 this is the warmest day
except one which we have experienced this summer. The Indian woman
recognizes the country and assures us that this is the river on which her
relations live, and that the three forks are at no great distance. this
peice of information has cheered the sperits of the party who now begin to
console themselves with the anticipation of shortly seeing the head of the
missouri yet unknown to the civilized world. the large creek which we
passed on Stard. 15 yds. we call white Earth Creek from the circumstance
of the natives procuring a white paint on this crek. — Saw many gees,
crams, and small birds common to the plains, also a few phesants and a
species of small curlooe or plover of a brown colour which I first met
with near the entrance of Smith's river but they are so shy and watchfull
there is no possibility of geting a shoot at them it is a different kind
from any heretofore discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged
plover or jack Curlooe. both species of the willow that of the broad leaf
and narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very scarce. the rose
bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed thorn, southernwood, sage Box
alder narrow leafed cottonwood, red wod, a species of sumac are all found
in abundance as well as the red and black goosberries, service berries,
choke cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of black, yellow,
red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the bear appear to feed
much on the currants. late this evening we arrived at Capt. Carks camp on
the stard. side of the river; we took them on board with the meat they had
collected and proceeded a short distance and encamped on an Island Capt.
Clark's party had killed a deer and an Elk today and ourselves one deer
and an Antelope only. altho Capt C. was much fatiegued his feet yet
blistered and soar he insisted on pursuing his rout in the morning nor
weould he consent willingly to my releiving him at that time by taking a
tour of the same kind. finding him anxious I readily consented to remain
with the canoes; he ordered Frazier and Jo. & Reubin Filds to hold
themselves in readiness to accompany him in the morning. Sharbono was
anxious to accompany him and was accordingly permitted. the musquetoes and
knats more than usually troublesome to us this evening.
[Clark, July 22, 1805]
July 22d Monday 1805 a fine morning wind from the S. E. the last night
verry cold, my blanket being Small I lay on the grass & Covered with
it. I opened the bruses & blisters of my feet which caused them to be
painfull dispatched all the men to hunt in the bottom for Deer, deturmined
my Self to lay by & nurs my feet. haveing nothing to eat but venison
and Currents, I find my Self much weaker than when I left the Canoes and
more inclined to rest & repose to day. These men were not Suckcessfull
in hunting killed only one Deer Capt Lewis & the Party arvd. at 4
oClock & we all proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on an Island
the Musquitors verry troublesom this evening G Drewyer not knowing the
place we Camped Continued on up the river. I deturmined to proceed on in
pursute of the Snake Indians on tomorrow and directed Jo Rubin Fields
Frasure to get ready to accompany me. Shabono, our interpreter requested
to go, which was granted &c. In my absence the hunters had killed Some
Deer & a Elk, one fusee found &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 23, 1805]
Tuesday July 23rd 1805. Set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with
his little party of 4 men and continued his rout on the Stard. side of the
river. about 10 OCk. A M. we came up with Drewyer who had seperated from
us yesterday evening and lay out all night not being able to find where we
had encamped. he had killed 5 deer which we took on board and continued
our rout. the river is still divided by a great number of islands, it
channels sometimes seperating to the distance of 3 miles; the current very
rapid with a number of riffles; the bed gravel and smooth stones; the
banks low and of rich loam in the bottoms; some low bluffs of yellow and
red clay with a hard red slate stone intermixed. the bottoms are wide and
but scantily timbered; the underbrush very thick consisting of the narrow
& broad leafed willow rose and Currant bushes principally. high plains
succeeds the river bottoms and extend back on either side to the base of
the mountains which are from 8 to 12 miles assunder, high, rocky, some
small pine and Cedar on them and ly parallel with the river. passed a
large creek on Lard. side 20 yds. wide which after meandering through a
beautifull and extensive bottom for several miles nearly parallel with the
river discharges itself opposite to a large cluster of islands which from
their number I called the 10 islands and the creek Whitehous's Creek,
after Josph. Whitehouse one of the party. saw a great abundance of the
common thistles; also a number of the wild onions of which we collected a
further supply. there is a species of garlic also which grows on the high
lands with a flat leaf now green and in bloe but is strong tough and
disagreeable. found some seed of the wild flax ripe which I preserved;
this plant grows in great abundance in these bottoms. I halted rearther
early for dinner today than usual in order to dry some articles which had
gotten wet in several of the canoes. I ordered the canoes to hoist their
small flags in order that should the indians see us they might discover
that we were not Indians, nor their enemies. we made great uce of our
seting poles and cords the uce of both which the river and banks favored.
most of our small sockets were lost, and the stones were so smooth that
the points of their poles sliped in such manner that it increased the
labour of navigating the canoes very considerably, I recollected a parsel
of giggs which I had brought on, and made the men each atatch one of these
to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which answered the
desired purpose. we saw Antelopes Crain gees ducks beaver and Otter. we
took up four deer which Capt. Clark & party had killed and left near
the river. he pursued his rout untill late in the evening and encamped on
the bank of the river 25 ms. above our encampment of the last evening; he
followed an old indian road which lyes along the river on the stard side
Capt. saw a number of Antelopes, and one herd of Elk. also much sign of
the indians but all of ancient date. I saw the bull rush and Cattail flag
today.
I saw a black snake today about two feet long the Belly of which was as
black as any other part or as jet itself. it had 128 scuta on the belley
63 on the tail.
[Clark, July 23, 1805]
July 23rd Tuesday 1805 a fair morning wind from the South. I Set out by
land at 6 miles overtook G Drewyer who had killed a Deer. we killed in the
Same bottom 4 deer & a antelope & left them on the river bank for
the Canoes proceeded on an Indian roade through a wider Vallie which the
Missouri Passes about 25 miles & Camped on the bank of the river, High
mountains on either Side of the Vallie Containing Scattering Pine &
Cedar Some Small Cotton willow willow &c. on the Islands & bank of
the river I Saw no fresh Sign of Indians to day Great number of antelopes
Some Deer & a large Gangue of Elk
[Lewis, July 24, 1805]
Wednesday July 24th 1805. Set out at sunrise; the current very strong;
passed a remarkable bluff of a crimson coloured earth on Stard. intermixed
with Stratas of black and brick red slate. the valley through which the
river passed today is much as that of yesterday nor is there any
difference in the appearance of the mountains, they still continue high
and seem to rise in some places like an amphatheater one rang above
another as they receede from the river untill the most distant and lofty
have their tops clad with snow. the adjacent mountains commonly rise so
high as to conceal the more distant and lofty mountains from our view. I
fear every day that we shall meet with some considerable falls or
obstruction in the river notwithstanding the information of the Indian
woman to the contrary who assures us that the river continues much as we
see it. I can scarcely form an idea of a river runing to great extent
through such a rough mountainous country without having it's stream
intercepted by some difficult and gangerous rappids or falls. we daily
pass a great number of small rappids or riffles which decend one to or 3
feet in 150 yards but they are rarely incommoded with fixed or standing
rocks and altho strong rappid water are nevertheless quite practicable
& by no means dangerous. we saw many beaver and some otter today; the
former dam up the small channels of the river between the islands and
compell the river in these parts to make other channels; which as soon as
it has effected that which was stoped by the beaver becomes dry and is
filled up with mud sand gravel and drift wood. the beaver is then
compelled to seek another spot for his habitation wher he again erects his
dam. thus the river in many places among the clusters of islands is
constantly changing the direction of such sluices as the beaver are
capable of stoping or of 20 yds. in width. this anamal in that way I
beleive to be very instrumental in adding to the number of islands with
which we find the river crouded. we killed one deer today and found a goat
or Antelope which had been left by Capt. Clark. we saw a large bear but
could not get a shoot at him. we also saw a great number of Crams &
Antelopes, some gees and a few red-headed ducks the small bird of the
plains and curloos still abundant. we observed a great number of snakes
about the water of a brown uniform colour, some black, and others speckled
on the abdomen and striped with black and brownish yellow on the back and
sides. the first of these is the largest being about 4 feet long, the
second is of that kind mentioned yesterday, and the last is much like the
garter snake of our country and about it's size. none of these species are
poisonous I examined their teeth and fund them innosent. they all appear
to be fond of the water, to which they fly for shelter immediately on
being pursued. — we saw much sign of Elk but met with none of them.
from the appearance of bones and excrement of old date the buffaloe
sometimes straggle into this valley; but there is no fresh sighn of them
and I begin think that our harrvest of white puddings is at an end, at
least untill our return to the buffaloe country. our trio of pests still
invade and obstruct us on all occasions, these are the Musquetoes eye
knats and prickley pears, equal to any three curses that ever poor Egypt
laiboured under, except the Mahometant yoke. the men complain of being
much fortiegued, their labour is excessively great. I occasionly encourage
them by assisting in the labour of navigating the canoes, and have learned
to push a tolerable good pole in their fraize. This morning Capt. Clark
set out early and pursued the Indian road whih took him up a creek some
miles abot 10 A.M. he discovered a horse about six miles distant on his
left, he changed his rout towards the horse, on approaching him he found
the horse in fine order but so wild he could not get within less than
several hundred paces of him. he still saw much indian sign but none of
recent date. from this horse he directed his course obliquely to the river
where on his arrival he killed a deer and dined. in this wide valley where
he met with the horse he passed five handsome streams, one of which only
had timber another some willows and much stoped by the beaver. after
dinner he continued his rout along the river upwards and encamped having
traveled about 30 mes.
[Clark, July 24, 1805]
July 24th Wednesday 1805 a fine day wind from the N W. I proceeded on up a
Creek on the direction of the Indian road at 10 oClock discovered a horse
6 miles to my left towards the river as I approached the horse found him
fat and verry wild we could not get near him, we changed our Direction to
the river for water haveing previously Crossed 5 handsom Streams in one
Vallie one only had any timber on it one other Willows only & a number
of beaver Dams. when I Struck the river turned down to kill a Deer which
we dined on & proceeded on up the river a fiew miles an Campd. on the
river. the river much like it was yesterday. the mountains on either Side
appear like the hills had fallen half down & turned Side upwards the
bottoms narrow and no timber a fiew bushes only.
[Lewis, July 25, 1805]
Thursday July 25th 1805. Set out at an early hour and proceeded on
tolerably well the water still strong and some riffles as yesterday. the
country continues much the same as the two preceeding days. in the
forenoon we saw a large brown bear on an island but he retreated
immediately to the main shore and ran off before we could get in reach of
him. they appear to be more shy here than on the Missouri below the
mountains. we saw some antelopes of which we killed one. these anamals
appear now to have collected again is small herds several females with
their young and one or two males compose the herd usually. some males are
yet soletary or two perhaps together scattered over the plains which they
seen invariably to prefer to the woodlands. if they happen accedentaly in
the woodlands and are allarmed they run immediately to the plains, seeming
to plaise a just confidence in their superior fleetness and bottom. we
killed a couple of young gees which are very abundant and fine; but as
they are but small game to subsist a party on of our strength I have
forbid the men shooting at them as it waists a considerable quantity of
amunition and delays our progress. we passed Capt. Clark's encampment of
the 23rd inst. the face of the country & anamal and vegatable
productions were the same as yesterday, untill late in the evening, when
the valley appeared to termineate and the river was again hemned in on
both sides with high caiggy and rocky clifts. soon after entering these
hills or low mountains we passed a number of fine bold springs which burst
out underneath the Lard. clifts near the edge of the water; they wer very
cold and freestone water. we passed a large Crk. today in the plain
country, 25 yds. wide, which discharges itself on the Stard. side; it is
composed of five streams which unite in the plain at no great distance
from the river and have their souces in the Mts. this stream we called
Gass's Creek. after Sergt. Patric Gass one of our party. — two rapids
near the large spring we passed this evening were the worst we have seen
since that we passed on entering the rocky Mountain; they were obstructed
with sharp pointed rocks, ranges of which extended quite across the river.
the clifts are formed of a lighter coloured stone than those below I
obseve some limestone also in the bed of the river which seem to have been
brought down by the current as they are generally small and woarn smooth. — This
morning Capt. Clark set out early and at the distance of a few miles
arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, here he found the plains
recently birnt on the stard. side, and the track of a horse which appeared
to have passed only about four or five days. after taking breakfast of
some meat which they had brought with them, examined the rivers, and
written me a note informing me of his intended rout, he continued on up
the North fork, which though not larger than the middle fork, boar more to
the West, and of course more in the direction we were anxious to pursue.
he ascended this stream about 25 miles on Stard. side, and encamped, much
fatiegued, his feet blistered and wounded with the prickley pear thorns.
Charbono gave out, one of his ankles failed him and he was unable to
proceede any further. — I observed that the rocks which form the
clifts on this part of the river appear as if they had been undermined by
the river and by their weight had seperated from the parent hill and
tumbled on their sides, the stratas of rock of which they are composed
lying with their edges up; others not seperated seem obliquely depressed
on the side next the river as if they had sunk down to fill the cavity
which had been formed by the washing and wearing of the river. I have
observed a red as well as a yellow species of goosberry which grows on the
rocky Clifts in open places of a swetish pine like flavor, first observed
in the neighbourhood of the falls; at least the yellow species was first
observed there. the red differs from it in no particular except it's
colour and size being somewhat larger; it is a very indifferent fruit, but
as they form a variety of the native fruits of this country I preserved
some of their seeds. musquetoes and knats troublesome as usual.
[Clark, July 25, 1805]
July 25th Thursday 1805 a fine morning we proceeded on a fiew miles to the
three forks of the Missouri those three forks are nearly of a Size, the
North fork appears to have the most water and must be Considered as the
one best calculated for us to assend middle fork is quit as large about 90
yds. wide. The South fork is about 70 yds wide & falls in about 400
yards below the midle fork. those forks appear to be verry rapid &
Contain Some timber in their bottoms which is verry extincive, — on
the North Side the Indians have latterly Set the Praries on fire, the
Cause I can't account for. I Saw one horse track going up the river about
four or 5 days past. after Brackfast (which we made on the ribs of a Buck
killed yesterday), I wrote a note informing Capt Lewis the rout I intended
to take, and proeeded on up the main North fork thro a vallie, the day
verry hot about 6 or 8 miles up the North fork a Small rapid river falls
in on the Lard Side which affords a great Deel of water and appears to
head in the Snow mountains to the S W. this little river falls into the
Missouri by three mouthes, haveing Seperated after it arrives in the river
Bottoms, and Contains as also all the water courses in this quarter emence
number of Beaver & orter maney thousand enhabit the river & Creeks
near the 3 forks (Pholosiphie's River) — We Campd on the Same Side we
assended Starboard 20 miles on a direct line up the N. fork. Shabono our
intrepreter nearly tired one of his ankles falling him — The bottoms
are extencive and tolerable land Covered with tall grass & prickley
pears The hills & mountains are high Steep & rockey. The river
verry much divided by Islands Some Elk Bear & Deer and Some Small
timber on the Islands. Great quantities of Currents, red, black, yellow,
Purple, also Mountain Currents which grow on the Sides of Clifts; inferior
in taste to the others haveing Sweet pineish flaver and are red &
yellow, Choke Cheries, Boin roche, and the red buries also abound — musquitors
verry trouble Som untill the mountain breeze Sprung up which was a little
after night.
[Lewis, July 26, 1805]
Friday July 26th 1805. Set out early this morning as usual current strong
with frequent riffles; employ the cord and seting poles. the oars scarcely
ever being used except to pass the river in order to take advantage of the
shore and current. at the distance of 33/4 m. passed the entrance of a
large Creek 15 yds. wide which discharges itself on Lard. near the center
of a Lard. bend it is a bold runing stream this we called Howard's Creek
after Thomas P. Howard one of our party. at the distance of one mile
further we passed the entrance of a small run which falls in just above a
rocky clift on Lard. here the hills or reather mountains again recede from
the river and the valley again widens to the extent of several miles with
wide and fertile bottom lands. covered with grass and in many places a
fine terf of greenswoard. the high lands are thin meagre soil covered with
dry low sedge and a species of grass also dry the seeds of which are armed
with a long twisted hard beard at the upper extremity while the lower
point is a sharp subulate firm point beset at it's base with little stiff
bristles standing with their points in a contrary direction to the
subulate point to which they answer as a barb and serve also to pres it
forward when onece entered a small distance. these barbed seed penetrate
our mockersons and leather legings and give us great pain untill they are
removed. my poor dog suffers with them excessively, he is constantly
hinting and scratching himself as if in a rack of pain. the prickly pear
also grow here as abundantly as usual. there is another species of the
prickly pear of a globular form, composed of an assemblage of little conic
leaves springing from a common root to which their small points are
attached as a common center and the base of the cone forms the apex of the
leaf which is garnished with a circular range of sharp thorns quite as
stif and more keen than the more common species with the flat leaf, like
the Cockeneal plant. on entering this open valley I saw the snowclad tops
of distant mountains before us. the timber and mountains much as
heretofore. saw a number of beaver today and some otter, killed one of the
former, also 4 deer; found a deer's skin which had been left by Capt. C.
with a note informing me of his having met with a horse but had seen no
fresh appearance of the Indians. the river in the valley is from 2 to 250
yds. wide and crouded with Islands, in some places it is 3/4 of a mile
wide including islands. were it passed the hills it was from 150 to 200
yds. the banks are still low but never overflow. one of the men brought me
an indian bow which he found, it was made of cedar and about 2 F. 9 Inh.
in length. it had nothing remarkable in it's form being much such as is
used by the Mandans Minetares &c. This morning Capt. Clark left
Sharbono and Joseph Fields at the camp of last evening and proceeded up
the river about 12 miles to the top of a mountain from whence he had an
extensive view of the valley of the river upwards and of a large creek
which flowed into it on Std. side. not meeting with any fresh appearance
of Indians he determined to return and examine the middle fork of the
missouri and meet me by the time he expected me to arrive at the forks. he
returned down the mountain by the way of an old Indian road which led
through a deep hollow of the mountain facing the south the day being warm
and the road unshaded by timber he suffered excessively with heat and the
want of water, at length he arrived at a very cold spring, at which he
took the precaution of weting his feet head and hands before drank but
notwithstanding this precaution he soon felt the effects of the water. he
felt himself very unwell shortly after but continued his march rejoined
Sharbono and Fields where the party eat of a fawn which Jo. Fields had
killed in their absence Capt. C. was so unwell that he had no inclination
to eat. after a short respite he resumed his march pass the North fork at
a large island; here Charbono was very near being swept away by the
current and cannot swim, Capt. C however risqued him and saved his life.
Capt. C. continued his march to a small river which falls into the North
fork some miles above the junction of the 3 forks it being the distance of
about four miles from his camp of last evening here finding himself still
more unwell he determined to encamp. they killed two brown or Grisley bear
this evening on the island where they passed the N. fork of the Missouri.
this stream is much divided by islands and it's current rapid and much as
that of the missouri where we are and is navigable.
[Clark, July 26, 1805]
July 26th Friday 1805 I deturmined to leave Shabono & one man who had
Sore feet to rest & proceed on with the other two to the top of a
mountain 12 miles distant west and from thence view the river &
vallies a head, we with great dificuelty & much fatigue reached the
top at 11 oClock from the top of this mountain I could see the Course of
the North fork about 10 miles meandering through a Vallie but Could
discover no Indians or Sign which was fresh. I could also See Some
distance up the Small River below, and also the middle fork after
Satisfying my Self returned to the two men by an old Indian parth, on this
parth & in the Mountain we Came to a Spring of excessive Cold water,
which we drank reather freely of as we were almost famished; not with
Standing the precautions of wetting my face, hands, & feet, I Soon
felt the effects of the water. We Contind. thro a Deep Vallie without a
Tree to Shade us Scorching with heat to the men who had killed a pore
Deer, I was fatigued my feet with Several blisters & Stuck with
prickley pears. I eate but verry little deturmined to Cross to the middle
fork and examine that. we Crossed the Missouri which was divided by a
verry large Island, the first Part was knee deep, the other waste deep
& verry rapid — I felt my Self verry unwell & took up Camp on
the little river 3 miles above its mouth & near the place it falls
into the bottom a fiew Drops of rain this evening
we killed 2 bear which was imediately in our way. both pore emence number
of Beaver and orter in this little river which forks in the bottom
[Lewis, July 27, 1805]
Saturday July 27th 1805. We set out at an early hour and proceeded on but
slowly the current still so rapid that the men are in a continual state of
their utmost exertion to get on, and they begin to weaken fast from this
continual state of violent exertion. at the distance of 13/4 miles the
river was again closely hemned in by high Clifts of a solid limestone rock
which appear to have tumbled or sunk in the same manner of those discribed
yesterday. the limestone appears to be of an excellent quality of deep
blue colour when fractured and of a light led colour where exposed to the
weather. it appears to be of a very fine grain the fracture like that of
marble. we saw a great number of the bighorn on those Clifts. at the
distance of 33/4 ms. further we arrived at 9 A.M. at the junction of the
S. E. fork of the Missouri and the country opens suddonly to extensive and
beatifull plains and meadows which appear to be surrounded in every
direction with distant and lofty mountains; supposing this to be the three
forks of the Missouri I halted the party on the Lard. shore for breakfast
and walked up the S. E. fork about 1/2 a mile and ascended the point of a
high limestone clift from whence I commanded a most perfect view of the
neighbouring country. From this point I could see the S. E. fork about 7
miles. it is rapid and about 70 yards wide. throughout the distance I saw
it, it passes through a smoth extensive green meadow of fine grass in it's
course meandering in several streams the largest of which passes near the
Lard. hills, of which, the one I stand on is the extremity in this
direction. a high wide and extensive plain succeeds the meadow and extends
back several miles from the river on the Stard. sade and with the range of
mountains up the Lard. side of the middle fork. a large spring arrises in
this meadow about 1/4 of a mile from the S. E. fork into which it
discharges itself on the Stard. side about 400 paces above me. from E to
S. between the S. E. and middle forks a distant range of lofty mountains
rose their snow-clad tops above the irregular and broken mountains which
lie adjacent to this beautifull spot. the extreme point to which I could
see the S. E. fork boar S. 65° E. distant 7 ms. as before observed.
between the middle and S. E. forks near their junctions with the S. W.
fork there is a handsom site for a fortification it consists of a
limestone rock of an oblong form; it's sides perpendicular and about 25 ft
high except at the extremity towards the middle fork where it ascends
gradually and like the top is covered with a fine terf of greenswoard. the
top is level and contains about 2 Acres. the rock rises from the level
plain as if it had been designed for some such purpose. the extream point
to which I can see the bottom and meandering of the Middle fork bears S.
15 E distant about 14 miles. here it turns to the right around a point of
a high plain and disappears to my view. it's bottoms are several miles in
width and like that of the S. E. fork form one smoth and beautifull green
meadow. it is also divided into several streams. betwen this and the S. W.
fork there is an extensive plain which appears to extend up both those
rivers many miles and back to the mountains. the extreme point to which I
can see the S. W. fork bears S. 30° W. distant about 12 miles. this stream
passes through a similar country with the other two and is more divided
and serpentine in it's course than either of the others; it also possesses
abundanly more timber in it's bottoms. the timber here consists of the
narrowleafed cottonwood almost entirely. but little box alder or sweet
willow the underbrush thick and as heretofore discribed in the quarter of
the missouri. a range of high mountains at a considerable distance appear
to reach from South to West and are partially covered with snow the
country to the right of the S. W. fork like that to the left of the S. E.
fork is high broken and mountainous as is that also down the missouri
behind us, through which, these three rivers after assembling their united
force at this point seem to have forced a passage these bottom lands tho
not more than 8 or 9 feet above the water seem never to overflow. after
making a draught of the connection and meanders of these streams I
decended the hill and returned to the party, took breakfast and ascended
the S. W. fork 13/4 miles and encamped at a Lard. bend in a handsome level
smooth plain just below a bayou, having passed the entrance of the middle
fork at 1/2 a mile. here I encamped to wait the return of Capt. Clark and
to give the men a little rest which seemed absolutely necessary to them.
at the junction of the S. W. and Middle forks I found a note which had
been left by Capt. Clark informing me of his intended rout, and that he
would rejoin me at this place provided he did not fall in with any fresh
sighn of Indians, in which case he intended to pursue untill he over took
them calculating on my taking the S. W. fork, which I most certainly
prefer as it's direction is much more promising than any other. beleiving
this to be an essential point in the geography of this western part of the
Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained the
necessary data for fixing it's latitude Longitude &c. after fixing my
camp I had the canoes all unloaded and the baggage stoed away and securely
covered on shore, and then permitted several men to hunt. I walked down to
the middle fork and examined and compared it with the S. W. fork but could
not satisfy myself which was the largest stream of the two, in fact they
appeared as if they had been cast in the same mould there being no
difference in character or size, therefore to call either of these streams
the Missouri would be giving it a preference wich it's size dose not
warrant as it is not larger then the other. they are each 90 yds. wide. in
these meadows I saw a number of the duckanmallad with their young which
are now nearly grown. Currants of every species as well as goosberries are
found here in great abundance and perfection. a large black goosberry
which grows to the hight of five or six feet is also found here. this is
the growth of the bottom lands and is found also near the little rivulets
which make down from the hills and mountains it puts up many stems from
the same root, some of which are partialy branched and all reclining. the
berry is attatched seperately by a long peduncle to the stem from which
they hang pendant underneath. the berry is of an ovate form smooth as
large as the common garden goosberry when arrived at maturity and is as
black as jet, tho the pulp is of a cimson colour. this fruit is extreemly
asced. the leaf resembles the common goosberry in form but is reather
larger and somewhat proportioned to the superior size of it's stem when
compared with the common goosberry. the stem is covered with very sharp
thorns or bryers. below the tree forks as we passed this morning I
observed many collections of the mud nests of the small martin attatched
to the smooth face of the limestone rocks sheltered by projections of the
same rock above. Our hunters returned this evening with 6 deer 3 Otter and
a musk rat. they informed me that they had seen great numbers of
Antelopes, and much sign of beaver Otter deer Elk, &c. at 3 P.M. Capt
Clark arrived very sick with a high fever on him and much fatiegued and
exhausted. he informed me that he was very sick all last night had a high
fever and frequent chills & constant aking pains in all his mustles.
this morning notwithstanding his indisposition he pursued his intended
rout to the middle fork about 8 miles and finding no recent sign of
Indians rested about an hour and came down the middle fork to this place.
Capt. C. thought himself somewhat bilious and had not had a passage for
several days; I prevailed on him to take a doze of Rushes pills, which I
have always found sovereign in such cases and to bath his feet in warm
water and rest himself. Capt. C's indisposition was a further inducement
for my remaining here a couple of days; I therefore informed the men of my
intention, and they put their deer skins in the water in order to prepare
them for dressing tomorrow. we begin to feel considerable anxiety with
rispect to the Snake Indians. if we do not find them or some other nation
who have horses I fear the successfull issue of our voyage will be very
doubtfull or at all events much more difficult in it's accomplishment. we
are now several hundred miles within the bosom of this wild and mountanous
country, where game may rationally be expected shortly to become scarce
and subsistence precarious without any information with rispect to the
country not knowing how far these mountains continue, or wher to direct
our course to pass them to advantage or intersept a navigable branch of
the Columbia, or even were we on such an one the probability is that we
should not find any timber within these mountains large enough for canoes
if we judge from the portion of them through which we have passed. however
I still hope for the best, and intend taking a tramp myself in a few days
to find these yellow gentlemen if possible. my two principal consolations
are that from our present position it is impossible that the S. W. fork
can head with the waters of any other river but the Columbia, and that if
any Indians can subsist in the form of a nation in these mountains with
the means they have of acquiring food we can also subsist. Capt. C.
informed me that there is a part of this bottom on the West side of the
Middle fork near the plain, which appears to overflow occasionally and is
stony.
[Clark, July 27, 1805]
July 27th Saturday 1805 I was verry unwell all last night with a high
fever & akeing in all my bones. my fever &c. continus, deturmind
to prosue my intended rout to the middle fork, accordingly Set out in
great pain across a Prarie 8 miles to the Middle this fork is nearly as
large as the North fork & appears to be more rapid, we examined and
found no fresh Sign of Indians, and after resting about an hour, proceeded
down to the junction thro a wide bottom which appears to be overflown
every year, & maney parts Stoney this river has Several Islands and
number of beaver & orter, but little timber. we could See no fresh
Sign of Indians just above the Point I found Capt Lewis encamped haveing
arrived about 2 oClock. Several Deer killed this evening. I continue to be
verry unwell fever verry high; take 5 of rushes pills & bathe my feet
& legs in hot water
[Lewis, July 28, 1805]
Sunday July 28th 1805. My friend Capt. Clark was very sick all last night
but feels himself somwhat better this morning since his medicine has
opperated. I dispatched two men early this morning up the S. E. Fork to
examine the river; and permitted sundry others to hunt in the
neighbourhood of this place. Both Capt. C. and myself corrisponded in
opinon with rispect to the impropriety of calling either of these streams
the Missouri and accordingly agreed to name them after the President of
the United States and the Secretaries of the Treasury and state having
previously named one river in honour of the Secretaries of War and Navy.
In pursuance of this resolution we called the S. W. fork, that which we
meant to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of Thomas Jefferson. the
Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and the
S. E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in honor of Albert Gallitin. the two
first are 90 yards wide and the last is 70 yards. all of them run with
great valocity and thow out large bodies of water. Gallitin's River is
reather more rapid than either of the others, is not quite as deep but
from all appearances may be navigated to a considerable distance. Capt. C.
who came down Madison's river yesterday and has also seen Jefferson's some
distance thinks Madison's reather the most rapid, but it is not as much so
by any means as Gallitin's. the beds of all these streams are formed of
smooth pebble and gravel, and their waters perfectly transparent; in short
they are three noble streams. there is timber enough here to support an
establishment, provided it be erected with brick or stone either of which
would be much cheaper than wood as all the materials for such a work are
immediately at the spot. there are several small sand-bars along the
shores at no great distance of very pure sand and the earth appears as if
it would make good brick. I had all our baggage spread out to dry this
morning; and the day proving warm, I had a small bower or booth erected
for the comfort of Capt. C. our leather lodge when exposed to the sun is
excessively hot. I observe large quantities of the sand rush in these
bottoms which grow in many places as high as a man's breast and stand as
thick as the stalks of wheat usually do. this affords one of the best
winter pastures on earth for horses or cows, and of course will be much in
favour of an establishment should it ever be thought necessary to fix one
at this place. the grass is also luxouriant and would afford a fine swarth
of hay at this time in parsels of many acres together. all those who are
not hunting altho much fatiegued are busily engaged in dressing their
skins, making mockersons leggings &c to make themselves comfortable.
the Musquetoes are more than usually troublesome, the knats are not as
much so. in the evening about 4 O'Ck the wind blew hard from South West
and after some little time brought on a Cloud attended with thunder and
Lightning from which we had a fine refreshing shower which cooled the air
considerably; the showers continued with short intervals untill after
dark. in the evening the hunters all returned they had killed 8 deer and 2
Elk. some of the deer wer in excellent order. those whome I had sent up
Gallitin's river reported that after it passed the point to which I had
seen it yesterday that it turned more to the East to a considerable
distance or as far as they could discover the opening of the Mountains
formed by it's valley which was many miles. the bottoms were tolerably
wide but not as much so as at or near it's mouth. it's current is rappid
and the stream much divided with islands but is sufficiently deep for
canoe navigation. Our present camp is precisely on the spot that the Snake
Indians were encamped at the time the Minnetares of the Knife R. first
came in sight of them five years since. from hence they retreated about
three miles up Jeffersons river and concealed themselves in the woods, the
Minnetares pursued, attacked them, killed 4 men 4 women a number of boys,
and mad prisoners of all the females and four boys, Sah-cah-gar-we-ah or
Indian woman was one of the female prisoners taken at that time; tho I
cannot discover that she shews any immotion of sorrow in recollecting this
event, or of joy in being again restored to her native country; if she has
enough to eat and a few trinkets to wear I beleive she would be perfectly
content anywhere.
[Clark, July 28, 1805]
July 28th Sunday 1805 I was verry unwell all night, Something better this
morning, a very worm day untill 4 oClock when the wind rose & blew
hard from the S W. and was Cloudy, The Thermometr. Stood at 90° above 0 in
the evening a heavy thunder Shower from the S W. which continud at
intervales untill after dark, Several deer killed to day men all employed
dressing Skins for Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork
& reports that it is nearly the Size of the N. fork, verry rapid &
has maney Islands. Our present Camp is the prosise Spot the Snake Indians
were Camped at the time the Minetarries came in Sight, attacked &
killed 4 men 4 women & a number of boys, & made prisoners of all
the females & 4 boys.
[Lewis, July 29, 1805]
Monday July 29th 1805. This morning some of the hunters turned out and
returned in a few hours with four fat bucks, the venison is now very fine
we have killed no mule deer since we lay here, they are all of the
longtailed red deer which appear quite as large as those of the United
States. the hunters brought in a living young sandhill crane it has nearly
obtained it's growth but cannot fly; they had pursued it and caught it in
the meadows. it's colour is precisely that of the red deer. we see a
number of the old or full grown crams of this species feeding in these
meadows. this young animal is very ferce and strikes a severe blow with
his beak; after amusing myself with it I had it set at liberty and it
moved off apparently much pleased with being releived from his captivity.
the men have been busily engaged all day in dising skins and making them
into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors. we see a great
abundance of fish in the stream some of which we take to be trout but they
will not bite at any bate we can offer them. the King fisher is common on
the river since we have left the falls of the Missouri. we have not seen
the summer duck since we left that place, nor do I beleive that it is an
inhabitant of the Rocky mountains. the Duckanmallard were first seen with
their young on the 20th inst. and I forgot to note it; they are now
abundant with their young but do not breed in the missouri below the
mountains. the grasshopers and crickets are abundant in the plains as are
also the small birds frequently mentioned. there is also in these plains a
large ant with a redish brown body and legs, and a black head and abdomen;
they construct little perimids of small gravel in a conic shape, about 10
or 12 inches high without a mixture of sticks and with but little earth.
Capt. Clark is much better today, is perfectly clear of fever but still
very languid and complains of a general soarness in all his limbs. I
prevailed on him to take the barks which he has done and eate tolerably
freely of our good venison.
[Clark, July 29, 1805]
July 29 Monday 1805 A fair morning wind from the North I feel my Self
something better to day, made some Celestial observations took two Merdn.
altitudes which gave for Latd. 45° 22' 34" N men all dressing Skins &c.
[Lewis, July 30, 1805]
Tuesday July 30th 1805. Capt. Clark being much better this morning and
having completed my observations we reloaded our canoes and set out,
ascending Jeffersons river. Sharbono, his woman two invalleds and myself
walked through the bottom on the Lard. side of the river about 41/2 miles
when we again struck it at the place the woman informed us that she was
taken prisoner. here we halted untill Capt. Clark arrived which was not
untill after one P.M. the water being strong and the river extreemly
crooked. we dined and again proceeded on; as the river now passed through
the woods the invalleds got on board together with Sharbono and the Indian
woman; I passed the river and continued my walk on the Stard. side. saw a
vast number of beaver in many large dams which they had maid in various
bayoes of the river which are distributed to the distance of three or four
miles on this side of the river over an extensive bottom of timbered and
meadow lands intermixed. in order to avoid these bayoes and beaver dams
which I found difficult to pass I directed my course to the high plain to
the right which I gained after some time with much difficulty and waiding
many beaver dams to my waist in mud and water. I would willingly have
joined the canoes but the brush were so thick, the river crooked and
bottoms intercepted in such manner by the beaver dams, that I found it
uceless to attempt to find them, and therefore proceeded on up the river
in order to intersept it where it came near the plain and woult be more
collected into one channel. at length about sunset I arrived at the river
only about six miles from my calculation on a direct line from the place I
had left the canoes but I thought they were still below me. I found the
river was divided where I reached it by an Island and was therefore
fearfull that they might pass without my seeing them, and went down to the
lower point of the large island; here I discovered a small Island, close
under the shore on which I was; I passed the narrow channel to the small
island and examined the gravly bar along the edge of the river for the
tracks of the men, knowing from the appearance of the river at this place
that if they had passed they would have used the cord on the side where I
was. I saw no tracks and was then fully convinced that they were below me.
I fired my gun and hallooed but counld hear nothing of them. by this time
it was getting nearly dark and a duck lit on the shore in about 40 steps
of me and I killed it; having now secured my supper I looked our for a
suitable place to amuse myself in combating the musquetoes for the
ballance of the evening. I found a parsel of drift wood at the head of the
little Island on which I was and immediately set it on fire and collected
some willow brush to lye on. I cooked my duck which I found very good and
after eating it layed down and should have had a comfortable nights lodge
but for the musquetoes which infested me all night. late at night I was
awakened by the nois of some animal runing over the stoney bar on which I
lay but did not see it; from the weight with which it ran I supposed it to
be either an Elk or a brown bear. the latter are very abundant in this
neighbourhood. the night was cool but I felt very little inconvenience
from it as I had a large fire all night. Capt. Clark had proceeded on
after I seperated from him and encamped on a islad. only about 2 miles
below me but did not hear the report of my gun nor of my hooping.I saw
some deer and antelopes.
[Clark, July 30, 1805]
July 30th Monday 1805 We Set out 8 oClock and proceeded on 131/2 miles up
the N. fork the river verry rapid & Sholey the Channel entirely Corse
gravel many Islands and a number of Chanels in different directions thro
the bottom &c. passed the place the Squar interpretress was taken, one
man with his Sholder Strained, 2 with Turners, we Camped on the Std. Side
the evening Cool. Capt Lewis who walkd on Shore did not join me this
evening
[Lewis, July 31, 1805]
Wednesday July 31st 1805. This morning I waited at my camp very
impatiently for the arrival of Capt. Clark and party; I observed by my
watch that it was 7 A.M. and they had not come in sight. I now became very
uneasy and determined to wait until 8 and if they did not arrive by that
time to proceed on up the river taking it as a fact that they had passed
my camp some miles last evening. just as I set out to pursue my plan I
discovered Charbono walking up shore some distance below me and waited
untill arrived I now learnt that the canoes were behind, they arrived
shortly after. their detention had been caused by the rapidity of the
water and the circuitous rout of the river. they halted and breakfasted
after which we all set out again and I continued my walk on the Stard.
shore the river now becomes more collected the islands tho numerous ar
generally small. the river continues rapid and is from 90 to 120 yd. wide
has a considerable quantity of timber in it's bottoms. towards evening the
bottoms became much narrower and the timber much more scant. high hills
set in close on the Lard. and the plain high waivy or reather broken on
the Stard. and approach the river closely for a shot distance vally above
11/2 M wd. About one mile above Capt. Clark's encampment of the last
evening the principall entrance of a considerable river discharges itself
into Jefferson's river. this stream is a little upwards of 30 yd. wide
discharges a large quantity of very clear water it's bed like that of
Jefferson's river is pebble and gravel. it takes it's rise in the snowclad
mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers to the S. W. and
discharges itself into the former by seven mouths it has some timber in
it's bottoms and vas numbers of beaver and Otter. this stream we call
River Philosophy. the rock of the clifts this evening is a hard black
grannite like that of the clifts of most parts of the river below the
limestone clifts at the 3 forks of the Missouri this evening just before
we encamped Drewyer discovered a brown bear enter a small cops of bushes
on the Lard. side; we surrounded the place an surched the brush but he had
escaped in some manner unperceived but how we could not discover. nothing
killed today and our fresh meat is out. when we have a plenty of fresh
meat I find it impossible to make the men take any care of it, or use it
with the least frugallity. tho I expect that necessity will shortly teach
them this art. the mountiains on both sides of the river at no great
distance are very lofty. we have a lame crew just now, two with turners or
bad boils on various parts of them, one with a bad stone bruise, one with
his arm accedently dislocated but fortunately well replaced, and a fifth
has streigned his back by sliping and falling backwards on the gunwall of
the canoe. the latter is Sergt. Gass. it gives him great pain to work in
the canoe in his present situation, but he thinks he can walk with
convenience, I therefore scelected him as one of the party to accompany me
tomorrow, being determined to go in quest of the Snake Indians. I also
directed Drewyer and Charbono to hold themselves in readiness. Charbono
thinks that his ankle is sufficiently recovered to stand the march but I
entertain my doubts of the fact; he is very anxious to accompany me and I
therefore indulge him. There is some pine on the hills on both sides of
the river opposite to our encampment which is on the Lard. side upon a
small island just above a run. the bull rush & Cat-tail flag grow in
great abundance in the moist parts of the bottoms the dryer situations are
covered with fine grass, tanzy, thistles, onions and flax. the bottom land
fertile and of a black rich loam. the uplands poor sterile and of a light
yellow clay with a mixture of small smooth pebble and gravel, poducing
prickley pears, sedge and the bearded grass in great abundance; this grass
is now so dry that it would birn like tinder. — we saw one bighorn
today a few antelopes and deer.
[Clark, July 31, 1805]
July 31st Tuesday 1805 a fair Morning Capt Lewis out all night, we arrived
at his Camp to brackfast, he was without a blanket, & he killed a Duck
whiche Suped on &c. the river as yesterday Sholey & rapid, passed
the lower mouth of a Small river on the Lard. in the morning & the
upper mouth a ____ Miles above, this little river is the one I camped on
the 26th & heads in the Snow mountains to the S W. proceeded on verry
well and Camped on a Small Island a little above the place I Camped the
25th instant at the mouth of a run on the Lard Side, the bottoms from the
Mouth of the river extend to 21/2 Miles & enter a Short & high
hill which is about 1 mile thro and, the river then passes thro a 2d value
of about 11/2 Miles wide, Some Islands. below this Knobe the river is
Crouded with Islands, we are out of fresh meet, & nothing killed to
day The Mountains on either Side is high & rough we have two men with
toumers and unable to work.
Capt Lewis deturmin to proceed on with three men in Serch of the Snake
Indians, tomorrow
[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
August 1st 1805 At half after 8 A.M. we halted for breakfast and as had
been previously agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I set out with 3
men in quest of the Snake Indians. the men I took were the two
Interpreters Drewyer and Sharbono and Sergt. Gass who by an accedental
fall had so disabled himself that it was with much pain he could work in
the canoes tho he could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over
a rough high range of mountains on the North side of the river. the rive
entered these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Capt Clark
recommended this rout to me from a belief that the river as soon as it
past the mountains boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before
ascended these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large
valley passing betwen the mountains and which boar to the N. West. this
however poved to be the inlet of a large creek which discharged itself
into the river just above this range of mountans, the river bearing to the
S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as
we discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river which we at
length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day the
roughnes of the road and the want of water. the mountains are extreemly
bare of timber and our rout lay through the steep valleys exposed to the
heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of air; and to add to
my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles I had taken a doze of glauber
salts in the morning in consequence of a slight desentary with which I had
been afflicted for several days; being weakened by the disorder and the
opperation of the medecine I found myself almost exhausted before we
reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach to
the river at the sight of a herd of Elk of which Drewyer and myself killed
two. we then hurried to the river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of
the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to the river while myself and
the other prepared a fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we
made a comfortable meal of the Elk and left the ballance of the meat on
the bank of the river the party with Capt. Clark. this supply was no doubt
very acceptable to them as they had had no fresh meat for near two days
except one beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few deer
and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of them.
after dinner we resumed our march and encamped about 6 m. above on the
Stard side of the river.
[Lewis, August 1, 1805]
Thursday August 1st 1805. This morning we set out early and proceeded on
tolerably well untill 8 OCT. by which time we had arrived within a few
miles of a mountain through which the river passes. we halted on the
Stard. side and took breakfast. after which or at 1/2 after 8 A.M. as had
been previously concerted betwen Capt. Clark and myself I set out with
three men in surch of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a
high range of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C.
recommended this rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the river as soon
as it passed this chain of mountains boar to the N. of W. he having on the
26th ult. ascended these mountains to a position from whence he discoved a
large valley passing between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and
presumed that the river passed in that direction; this however proved to
be the passage of a large creek which discharged itself into the river
just above this range of mountains, the river bearing to the S. W. we were
therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as we discovered
our error we directed our course to the river which we at length gained
about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day, the roughness of the
road and the want of water. the mountains are extreemly bare of timber,
and our rout lay through the steep and narrow hollows of the mountains
exposed to the intese heat of the midday sun without shade or scarcely a
breath of air to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles, I had
taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight
disentary with which I had been afflicted for several days. being weakened
by the disorder and the operation of the medicine I found myself almost
exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on
our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which
Drewyer and myself soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the river and
allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the
meat to the river, while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked
some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk,
and left the ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for
Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable to them, as
they had had no fresh meat when I left them for almost 2 days except one
beaver; game being very scarce and shy above the forks. we had seen a few
deer and antelopes but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of them.
as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark brown
phesants; the young phesant is almost grown we killed one of them. this
bird is fully a third larger than the common phesant of the Atlantic
states. it's form is much the same. it is booted nearly to the toes and
the male has not the tufts of long black feathers on the sides of the neck
which are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their colour is a
uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or yelloish brown specks
on some of the feathers particularly those of the tail, tho the
extremities of these are perfectly black for about one inch. the eye is
nearly black, the iris has a small dash of yellowish brown. the feathers
of the tail are reather longer than that of our phesant or pattridge as
they are Called in the Eastern States; are the same in number or eighteen
and all nearly of the same length, those in the intermediate part being
somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is white and agreeably flavored.
I also saw near the top of the mountain among some scattering pine a blue
bird about the size of the common robbin. it's action and form is somewhat
that of the jay bird and never rests long in any one position but
constantly flying or hoping from sprey to sprey. I shot at one of them but
missed it. their note is loud and frequently repeated both flying and when
at rest and is char ah', char'ah, char ah', as nearly as letters can
express it. after dinner we resumed our march and my pack felt much
lighter than it had done about 2 hours before. we traveled about six miles
further and encamped on the stard. bank of the river, making a distance of
17 miles for this day. the Musquetoes were troublesome but I had taken the
precaution of bringing my bier.
Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed on and passed
through the mountains; they formed tremendious clifts of ragged and nearly
perpendicular rocks; the lower.part of this rock is of the black grannite
before mentioned and the upper part a light coloured freestone. these
clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river very closely on either
side. he found the current verry strong. Capt. C. killed a big horn on
these clifts which himself and party dined on. after passing this range of
mountains he entered this beautifull valley in which we also were it is
from 6 to 8 miles wide. the river is crooked and crouded with islands,
it's bottoms wide fertile and covered with fine grass from 9 inches to 2
feet high and possesses but a scant proportion of timber, which consists
almost entirely of a few narrow leafed cottonwood trees distributed along
the verge of the river. in the evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left
him and ascended a short distance above to the entrance of a large creek
which falls in on Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side. he
sent out the two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they killed 5 deer,
which with the Elk again gave them a plentifull store of fresh provisions.
this large creek we called Field's Creek after Reubin Fields one our
party. on the river about the mountains wich Capt. C. passed today he saw
some large cedar trees and some juniper also just at the upper side of the
mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our canoe broke in the
shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks and had very nearly overset. a
small distance above this rapid a large bold Creek falls in on Lard. side
which we called Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They saw a large
brown bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at him.
[Clark, August 1, 1805]
August 1st Wednesday 1805 A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just
below the place I entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its
tremedious Clifts on either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide Some verry
dark & other part verry light rock the light rocks is Sand Stone. The
water Swift & very Sholey. I killed a Ibix on which the whole party
Dined, after passing through the Mountain we entered a wide extesive
vallie of from 4 to 8 Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the
Commencement of this Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens &
spreds into Small Chanels. We encamped on the Lard Side opposit a large
Creek I sent out Jo. & R fields to hunt this evening they killed 5
Deer, I saw a large Bear eateing Currents this evining The river so rapid
that the greatest exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind S W
Murckery at sun rise 50° Ab. 0
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd 1805. We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather
was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the
south I determined to pass it if possible to shorten our rout this we
effected about five miles above our camp of last evening by wading it.
found the current very rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is
the first time that I ever dared to make the attempt to wade the river,
tho there are many places between this and the three forks where I presume
it migh be attempted with equal success. the valley though which our rout
of this day lay and through which the river winds it's meandering course
is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on the verge of
the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a black or dark
yellow loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2 feet high. the
plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the bases of two
ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the river and which terminate
the width of the vally. the tops of these mountains were yet partially
covered with snow while we in the valley. were suffocated nearly with the
intense heat of the midday sun. the nights are so could that two blankets
are not more than sufficient covering. we found a great courants, two
kinds of which were red, others yellow deep purple and black, also black
goosburies and service buries now ripe and in full perfection, we feasted
suptuously on our wild fruit particularly the yellow courant and the deep
purple servicebury which I found to be excellent the courrant grows very
much like the red currant common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho
the leaf is somewhat different and the growth taller. the service burry
grows on a smaller bush and differs from ours only in colour and the
superior excellence of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this
day we saw an abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number
of the tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued our rout
along this valley which is from six to eight Miles wide untill sun set
when we encamped for the night on the river bank having traveled about 24
miles. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not
doubt being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.
[Lewis, August 2, 1805]
Friday August 2cd 1805. We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the
day was fair and wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the
South I determined to pass it if possible in order to shorten our rout;
this we effected by wading the river about 5 miles above our encampment of
the last evening. we found the current very rapid waist deep and about 90
yd. wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this
is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho there are many
places between this and the forks where I presume it might be attempted
with equal success. The vally allong which we passed today, and through
which the river winds it's meandering course is from 6 to 8 miles wide and
consists of a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that
confined to the verge of the river; the land is tolerably fertile, and is
either black or a dark yellow loam, covered with grass from 9 inches to 2
feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to the
bases of two ranges of high mountains, which lye parallel to the river and
prescribe the limits of the plains. the tops of these mountains are yet
covered partially with snow, while we in the valley are nearly suffocated
with the intense heat of the midday sun; the nights are so cold that two
blankets are not more than sufficient covering. soon after passing the
river this morning Sergt. Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and we
were unable to find it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement,
however accedents will happen in the best families, and I consoled myself
with the recollection that it was not the only one we had with us. the
bones of the buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met
with in every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope of
meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great quantities
of currants today, two species of which were red, others yellow, deep
perple and black; also black goosberries and serviceberries now ripe and
in great perfection. we feasted sumptuously on our wild fruits,
particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple serviceberries, which
I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows on a small bush and
differs from ours only in colour size and superior excellence of it's
flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way we saw an abundance
of deer Antelopes, of the former we killed 2. we also saw many tracks of
the Elk and bear. no recent appearance of Indians. the Indians in this
part of the country appear to construct their lodges with the willow
boughs and brush; they are small of a conic figure and have a small
aperture on one side through which they enter. we continued our rout up
this valley on the Lard. side of the river untill sunset, at which time we
encamped on the Lard. bank of the river having traveled 24 miles. we had
brought with us a good stock of venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I
feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition, and do not doubt
being able to pursue my rout tomorrow with the same comfort I have done
today. — we saw some very large beaver dams today in the bottoms of
the river several of which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres
of land; these dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so
closely interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of this
work is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower side while the
upper side or that within the dam is gently sloped. the brush appear to be
laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by the irregularity with
which they are placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the engenuity of
man to give them.
Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the
current was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the
utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could they resist this current
by any other means than that of the cord and pole. in the course of the
day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw a number of
beaver dams and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks both of the
Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several rattle snakes,
black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; they found the river much
crouded with island both large and small and passed a small creek on
Stard. side which we called birth Creek. Capt. Clark discovers a tumor
rising on the inner side of his ankle this evening which was painfull to
him. they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard. side.
[Clark, August 2, 1805]
August 2nd Friday 1805 a fine day Set out early the river has much the
Same kind of banks Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I
walked out this morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes in the
plain, the wind from the S W we proceeded on with great dificuelty from
the rapidity of the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encamped on
the Lard Side, saw a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a
Small Creek on the Stard Side and maney large and Small Islands. Saw a
number of young Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some geese I saw
Black woodpeckers — I have either got my foot bitten by Some poisonous
insect or a turner is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is
painfull
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
August the 3rd 1805. Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our
rout through the valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven A.M.
Drewyer killed a doe and we halted and took breakfast. the mountains
continue high on either side of the valley, and are but skantily supplyed
with timber; small pine appears to be the prevalent growth. there is no
timber in the valley except a small quantity of the narrow leafed
cottonwood on the verge of the river. the underwood consists of the
narrowleafed or small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury
and service bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of dwarf burch
the leaf of which, oval, deep green, finely indented and very small. we
encamped this evening after sunset having traveled by estimate 23 miles.
from the width and appearance of the valley at this place I concieved that
the river forked not far above me and therefore resolved the next morning
to examine the adjacent country more minutely.
[Lewis, August 3, 1805]
Saturday August 3rd 1805. Set out early this morning, or before sunrise;
still continued our march through the level valley on the lard. side of
the river. the valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it 12
Miles wide, tho the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more
broken with some scattering pine near the mountain. in the leaveler parts
of the plain and river bottoms which are very extensive there is no timber
except a scant proportion of cottonwood neat the river. the under wood
consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle,
rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes; also a small
species of berth in but small quantities the leaf which is oval finely,
indented, small and of a deep green colour. the stem is simple ascending
and branching, and seldom rises higher than 10 or 12 feet. the Mountains
continue high on either side of the valley, and are but scantily supplyed
with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent growth; it is of the
pith kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A.M. Drewyer killed a doe and we
halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and then continued our rout untill
night without halting, when we arrived at the river in a level bottom
which appeared to spread to greater extent than usual. from the appearance
of the timber I supposed that the river forked above us and resolved to
examine this part of the river minutely tomorrow. this evening we passed
through a high plain for about 8 miles covered with prickley pears and
bearded grass, tho we found this even better walking than the wide bottoms
of the river, which we passed in the evening; these altho apparently
level, from some cause which I know not, were formed into meriads of deep
holes as if rooted up by hogs these the grass covered so thick that it was
impossible to walk without the risk of falling down at every step. some
parts of these bottoms also possess excellent terf or peat, I beleive of
many feet deep. the mineral salts also frequently mentioned on the
Missouri we saw this evening in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer,
Antelopes ducks, gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work.
also a small bird and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on the river bank
on Lard. side having traveled by estimate 23 Miles. The fish of this part
of the river are trout and a species of scale fish of a white colour and a
remarkable small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the same
with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose. the snowey
region of the mountains and for some distance below has no timber or
herbage of any kind; the timber is confined to the lower and middle
regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. he walked on shore a
small distance this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his walk
he saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from the
circumstance of the large toes turning inward. he pursued the track and
found that the person had ascended a point of a hill from which his camp
of the last evening was visible; this circumstance also confirmed the
beleif of it's being an Indian who had thus discovered them and ran off.
they found the river as usual much crouded with islands, the currant more
rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they were obliged
to double man the canoes and drag them over the stone and gravel. this
morning they passed a small creek on Stard. at the entrance of which
Reubin Fields killed a large Panther. we called the creek after that
animal Panther Creek. they also passed a handsome little stream on Lard.
which is form of several large springs which rise in the bottoms and along
the base of the mountains with some little rivulets from the melting
snows. the beaver have formed many large dams on this stream. they saw
some deer Antelopes and the common birds of the country. in the evening
they passed a very bad rappid where the bed of the river is formed entrely
of solid rock and encamped on an island just above. the Panther which
Fields killed measured seven and 1/2 feet from the nose to the extremity
of the tail. it is precisely the same animal common to the western part of
our country. the men wer compelled to be a great proportion of their time
in the water today; they have had a severe days labour and are much
fortiegued.
[Clark, August 3, 1805]
August 3rd Saturday1805 a fine morning wind from the N E I walked on Shore
& killed a Deer in my walk I saw a fresh track which I took to be an
Indian from the Shape of the foot as the toes turned in, I think it
probable that this Indian Spied our fires and Came to a Situation to view
us from the top of a Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and
Sholey than yesterday one R. F. man killed a large Panthor on the Shore we
are oblige to haul over the Canoes Sholey in maney places where the
Islands are noumerous and bottom Sholey, in the evening the river more
rapid and Sholey we encamped on an Island avove a part of the river which
passed thro a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick willow current
& red buries &c &c passed a bold Stream which heads in the
mountains to our right and the drean of the minting Snow in the Montn. on
that side ar in View — at 4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls
from a mountn in three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the
Snow on this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some Deer
Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees and they
Small the Mountains on our left Contain pine those on our right but verry
partially Supplied and what pine & cedar it has is on the Lower
region, no wood being near the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c.
Some fish trout & and bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks
& Curlows
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
August 4th 1805. Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E.
about 4 Miles when we passed a bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the
water could and remarkably clear, we then changed our course to S. E.
passing obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving the valley
which we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles
we passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is
about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I believe
it may be navigated some miles. I then changed my rout to S. W. passed a
high plain which lyes between the vallies and returned to the S. valley,
in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide which I waideg
and then continued my rout down to it's junction with the river just
mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek which falls in
about 2 miles below; still continuing my rout down this stream about three
miles further and about 2 M. below our encampment of the last evening this
river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide which comes from the N.
W. and falling into the S. valley runs parrallel with the middle fork
about 12 miles. this is a bould rappid & clear stream it's bed so
broken and obstructed by gravel bars and Islands that it appeared to me
impossible to navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and
possesses about 2/3ds as much water as this rappid stream, it's cours so
far as I can observe it is about S. W. and it appears to be navigable; its
water is much warmer than that of the rappid fork and somewhat turbid,
from which I concluded that it had it's source at a greater distance in
the mountains and passed through an opener country than the other. under
this impression I wrote a note to Capt. Clark recommending his taking the
middle fork provided he should arrive at this place before my return which
I expect will be the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the
forks of the river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some
venison we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard side of
the N. W. fork, determining to pursue it untill 12 OC. the next day and
then pass over to the middle fork and return to their junction or untill I
met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the point where the river
leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about 20
miles.
[Lewis, August 4, 1805]
Sunday August 4th 1805. Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E.
by E. 4 M. when we pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of
which was clear and very cold. it appears to be formed by four dranes from
the snowey mountains to our left. after passing this creek we changed our
direction to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E leaving
the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the distance of 3
Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders through this valley;
it is about 30 yds wide, affords a considerable quantity of water and
appears as if it might be navigated some miles. the currant is not rapid
nor the water very clear; the banks are low and the bed formed of stone
and gravel. I now changed my rout to S. W. passed a high plain which lies
betwen the valleies and returned to the South valley, in passing which I
fell in with a river about 45 yds. wide gravley bottom gentle currant
waist deep and water of a whitish blue tinge. this stream we waded and
continued our rout down it to the entrance of the river just mentioned
about 3/4 of a mile. still continuing down we passed the entrance of the
creek about 2 miles lower down; and at the distance of three miles further
arrived at it's junction with a river 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S.
W. and falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork
about 12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment
of the last evening was about 11/2 miles above the entrance of this large
river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so much
broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters so much subdivided
by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to navigate it with
safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3rds as much water
as this stream. it's course so far as I can observe it is about S. W., and
from the opening of the valley I beleive it still bears more to the West
above it may be safely navigated. it's water is much warmer then the rapid
fork and it's water more turbid; from which I conjecture that it has it's
sources at a greater distance in the mountains and passes through an
opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote a note to
Capt Clark, recommending his taking the middle fork povided he should
arrive at this place before my return, which I expect will be the day
after tomorrow. this note I left on a pole at the forks of the river, and
having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison which we
killed this morning we continued our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard
side, resolving to pursue this stream untill noon tomorrow and then pass
over to the middle fork and come down it to their junction or untill I
meet Capt Clark. I have seen no recent Indian sign in the course of my
rout as yet. Charbono complains much of his leg, and is the cause of
considerable detention to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place
at which it leaves the valley and enters the mountain having traveled
about 23 miles. we saw some Antelopes deer Grains, gees, and ducks of the
two species common to this country. the summer duck has ceased to appear,
nor do I beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the
timber &c is as heretofore tho there is more in this valley on the
rapid fork than we have seen in the same extent on the river since we
entered this valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have
distroyed a great proportion of the little timber which there is by seting
fire to the bottoms. This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent
two hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of
the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he found a note which I had left
for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my rout &c.
the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly. these
shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred yards; at
those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the stone there not
being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles the current is so
strong that they are compelled to have cecourse to the cord; and being
unable to walk on the shore for the brush wade in the river along the
shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased the pain and labour
extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by wading and walking over
the stones. these are also so slipry that they frequently get severe
falls. being constantly wet soon makes them feble also. their hunters
killed 2 deer today and some gees and ducks wer killed by those who
navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes Grains beaver Otter &c.
Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him that he was unable to walk. — This
evening they encamped on the Stard. side in a bottom of cottonwood timber
all much fatiegued.
[Clark, August 4, 1805]
August 4th Sunday 1805 a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and
Brackfast at the Camp Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp he
left a note informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of Indians &c.
The river continued to be crouded with Islands Sholey rapid & clear, I
could not walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a turner on that
part. the method we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing &
laborious in the extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed
each other every two or three hundred yards and between the water rapid
oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole day except when we have
poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at Sun rise 49 a.
0,
[Lewis, August 5, 1805]
Monday August 5th 1805 As Charbono complained of being unable to march far
today I ordered him and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our camp
and proceed at their leasure through the level bottom to a point of high
timber about seven miles distant on the middle fork which was in view; I
gave them my pack that of Drewyer and the meat which we had, directing
them to remain at that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me
and continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4 miles and
then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it was impossible to
navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side about 11/2 miles further
when the mountains put in close on both sides and arrose to great hight,
partially covered with snow. from hence the course of the river was to the
East of North. I took the advantage of a high projecting spur of the
mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's summit in about
half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing view of the valley
through which I had passed many miles below and the continuation of the
middle fork through the valley equally wide above me to the distance of
about 20 miles when that also appeared to enter the mountains and
disappeared to my view; however the mountains which termineate the valley
in this direction appeared much lower than those up either of the other
forks. on the rapid fork they appeared still to rise the one range
towering above another as far as I could perceive them. the middle fork as
I suspected dose bear considerably to the West of South and the gap formed
by it in the mountains after the valley terminates is in the same
direction. under these circumstances I did not hesitate in beleiving the
middle fork the most proper for us to ascend. about South from me, the
middle fork approached within about 5 miles. I resolved to pass across the
plains to it and return to Gass and Charbono, accordingly we set out and
decended the mountain among some steep and difficult precipices of rocks.
here Drewyer missed his step and had a very dangerous fall, he sprained
one of his fingers and hirt his leg very much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he
was able to proceed and we continued our rout to the river where we had
desighned to interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes
examined the river and found it still very navi-gable. an old indian road
very large and plain leads up this fork, but I could see no tracks except
those of horses which appeared to have passed early in the spring. as the
river mad a great bend to the South East we again ascended the high plain
and steered our course as streight as we could to the point where I had
directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain regained the
bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above them; by this time it was
perfectly dark & we hooped but could hear no tidings of them. we had
struck the river at the point of timber to which I had directed them, but
having mistaken a point of woods lower down, had halted short of the
place. we continued our rout after dark down the bottom through thick
brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly pears for about 2 hours when
we arrived at their camp. they had a small quantity of meat left which
Drewyer and myself eat it being the first we had taisted today. we had
traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down and slept very soundly untill
morning. I saw no deer today nor any game except a few Antelopes which
were very shy. the soil of the plains is a light yellow clay very meager
and intermixed with a large proportion of gravel, producing nothing except
the twisted or bearded grass, sedge and prickly pears. the dryer parts of
the bottoms are also much more indifferent in point of soil to those below
and are covered with the southernwood pulpy leafed thorn and prickley
pears with but little grass. the moist parts are fertile and covered with
fine grass and sand rushes.
This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched Joseph &
Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one of which the party
breakfasted. the river today they found streighter and more rapid even
than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was
proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with
great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water
and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely
walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where I
had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green pole
which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note; the
possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I placed
it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any
information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid fork
was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or West,
he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a mile and
encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was yet damp;
they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep themselves out
of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter of a mile it
scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to cut a passage through
the willow brush which leant over the little channels and united their
tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is extreemly painfull to him this evening; the
tumor has not yet mature, he has a slight fever. — The men were so
much fortiegued today that they wished much that navigation was at an end
that they might go by land.
[Clark, August 5, 1805]
August 5th Monday 1805 a Cold Clear morning the wind from the S. E. the
river Streight & much more rapid than yesterday, I Sent out Jo. &
R. Fields to kill Some meat they killed 2 Deer & we brackfast on one
of them and proceeded on with great dificuelety from the rapidity of the
Current, and numerable rapids we had to encounter, at 4 oClock P M Murcury
49 ab. 0, passed the mouth of principal fork which falls in on the Lard.
Side, this fork is about the Size of the Stard. one less water reather not
so rapid, its Course as far as can be Seen is S. E & appear to pass
through between two mountains, the N W. fork being the one most in our
course i. e. S 25° W. as far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork
as the principal and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish
Colour & contains but little timber. The S W fok contains more timber
than is below for Some distance, we assended this fork about one mile and
Encamped on an Island which had been laterly overflown & was wet we
raised our bead on bushes, we passed a part of the river above the forks
which was divided and Scattered thro the willows in Such a manner as to
render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile, we wer oblige to
Cut our way thro the willows — Men much fatigued from their excessive
labours in hauling the Canoes over the rapids &c. verry weak being in
the water all day. my foot verry painfull
Assended the N W Fork 9 miles on a Course S. 30° W. to a Bluff on the
Stard. Side passed Several Bayous & Islands
[Lewis, August 6, 1805]
Tuesday August 6th 1805. We set out this morning very early on our return
to the forks. having nothing to eat I set Drewyer to the woodlands to my
left in order to kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the right with orders to
keep sufficiently near to discover Capt. C. and the party should they be
on their way up that stream, and with Sharbono I directed my course to the
main forks through the bottom directing the others to meet us there. about
five miles above the forks I head the hooping of the party to my left and
changed my rout towards them; on my arrival found that they had taken the
rapid fork and learnt from Capt. Clark that he had not found the note
which I had left for him at that place and the reasons which had induced
him to ascend this stream. it was easeist & more in our direction, and
apd. to contain as much water he had hoever previously to my comeing up
with him, met Drewyer who informed him of the state of the two rivers and
was on his return. one of their canoes had just overset and all the
baggage wet, the medecine box among other articles and several articles
lost a shot pouch and horn with all the implements for one rifle lost and
never recovered. I walked down to the point where I waited their return.
on their arrival found that two other canoes had filled with water and wet
their cargoes completely. Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the
canoes as she swing in a rapid current and the canoe had rubed him and
pressed him to the bottom as she passed over him and had the water been 2
inches shallower must inevitably have crushed him to death. our parched
meal, corn, Indian preasents, and a great part of our most valuable stores
were wet and much damaged on this ocasion. to examine, dry and arrange our
stores was the first object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side
opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large gravly
bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and plenty. here
we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes and opened and exposed to
dry such articles as had been wet. a part of the load of each canoe
consisted of the leaden canestirs of powder which were not in least
injured, tho some of them had remained upwards of an hour under water.
about 20 lbs. of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at least one which
we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely spoiled. this would have
been the case with the other had it not have been for the expedient which
I had fallen on of securing the powder by means of the lead having the
latter formed into canesters which were filled with the necessary
proportion of poder to discharge the lead when used, and those canesters
well secured with corks and wax. in this country the air is so pure and
dry that any vessel however well seasoned the timber may be will give way
or shrink unless it is kept full of some liquid. we found that three deer
skins which we had left at a considerable hight on a tree were taken off
which we supposed had been done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt
this evening, they killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull
supply of meat once more. Shannon had been dispatched up the rapid fork
this morning to hunt, by Capt Clark before he met with Drewyer or learnt
his mistake in the rivers. when he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of
him, but he rejoined us this evening and reported that he had been several
miles up the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet
sounded and fired several guns but he did not join us this evening. I am
fearful he is lost again. this is the same man who was seperated from us
15 days as we came up the Missouri and subsisted 9 days of that time on
grapes only. Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one
of his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset and swing
over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull to him. — we should
have given the party a days rest some where near this place had not this
accedent happened, as I had determined to take some observations to fix
the Latitude and longitude of these forks. our merchandize medecine &c
are not sufficiently dry this evening we covered them securely for the
evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9 miles from this place
on a course of S 30° W. before he met with Drewyer.
we beleive that the N. W. or rapid fork is the dane of the melting snows
of the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork and dose
not at all seasons of the year supply any thing like as much water as the
other and that about this season it rises to it's greatest hight. this
last appears from the apparent bed of the river which is now overflown and
the water in many plases spreads through old channels which have their
bottoms covered with grass that has grown this season and is such as
appears on the parts of the bottom not innundated. we therefore determined
that the middle fork was that which ought of right to bear the name we had
given to the lower portion or River Jefferson and called the bold rapid an
clear stream Wisdom, and the more mild and placid one which flows in from
the S. E. Philanthrophy, in commemoration of two of those cardinal
virtues, which have so eminently marked that deservedly selibrated
character through life.
[Clark, August 6, 1805]
August 6th Tuesday 1805 a Clear morning Cool wind from the S W we
proceeded on with much dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones;
river about 40 or 50 yards wide much divided by Islands and narrow Bayoos
to a low bluff on the Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing the time of
Brackfast Drewyer Came to me from Capt. Lewis and informed me that they
had explored both forks for 30 or 40 miles & that the one we were
assending was impractiabl much further up & turned imediately to the
north, The middle fork he reported was jintle and after a Short distanc
turned to the S. W. and that all the Indian roades leades up the middle
fork. this report deturmind me to take the middle fork, accordingly Droped
down to the forks where I met with Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had
left a Letter on a pole in the forks informing me what he had discovered
& the course of the rivers &c. this lettr was Cut down by the
beaver as it was on a green pole & Carried off. Three Skins which was
left on a tree was taken off by the Panthers or wolvers. In decending to
the Point one Canoe Struck & turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet
every thing which was in her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the
forks and dry those articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled
half full of water & wet our medison & Some Goods Corn &c.
Several hunters out to day & killed a young Elk, Antilope, & 3
Deer, one man Shannon did not return to night — This evening Cool my
anckle much wors than it has been — this evening a Violent wind from
the N. W accompanied with rain which lasted half an hour wind N. W
[Lewis, August 7, 1805]
Wednesday August 7th 1805. The morning being fair we spread our stores to
dry at an early hour. Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon. our
stores were now so much exhausted that we found we could proceed with one
canoe less. we therefore drew out one of them into a thicket of brush and
secured her in such manner that the water could not take her off should
the river rise to the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above
us we called turf creek from the cercustance of it's bottoms being
composed of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and her sights had
been removed by some accedent I put her in order and regulated her. she
shot again as well as she ever did. The clouds last night prevented my
taking any lunar observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the 0
with Sextant.
At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed it up reloaded
the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt. Clark up Jefferson's river.
I remained with Sergt. Gass to complete the observation of equal altitudes
and joined them in the evening at their camp on the Lard. side just above
the entrance of turf creek. we had a shower of rain wich continued about
40 minutes attended with thunder and lightning. this shower wet me
perfectly before I reached the camp. the clouds continued during the night
in such manner that I was unable to obtain any lunar observations. This
evening Drewyer brought in a deer which he had killed. we have not heard
any thing from Shannon yet, we expect that he has pursued Wisdom river
upwards for som distance probably killed some heavy animal and is waiting
our arrival. the large biteing fly or hare fly as they sometimes called
are very troublesome to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black
species and a small brown species with a green head. the musquetoes are
not as troublesome as they were below, but are still in considerable
quantities. the eye knats have disappeared. the green or blowing flies are
still in swarms.
r the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the forks of
Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned and the
distance set down is that by land on a direct line between the points; the
estimated distances by water is also added in the body of the remarks on
each course.
[Clark, August 7, 1805]
August 7th Wednesday 1805 a fine morning put out our Stores &c. to dry
& took equal altitudes with the Sextant, — as our Store were a
little exorsted and one Canoe became unnecessary deturmind to leave one.
we Hauled her up in the bushes on the lower Side of the main fork &
fastened her So that the water could not flote her off. The Countrey in
this quarter is as follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6 miles wide Inclosed
between two high Mountains, the bottom rich Some Small timber on the
Islands & bushes on the edges of the river Some Bogs & verry good
turf in different places in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & ceder
on the mountains in places, other Parts nacked except grass and Stone The
Lattitude of the Mouth of Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North, we proceeded
up the Main Middle or S. E. fork, passed a Camped on the Lard. Side above
the mouth of a bold running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek
from the number of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters. this Creek
runs thro a open Plain for Several miles, takeing its rise in a high
mountain to the N E. The river Jefferson above Wisdom is gentle Crooked
and about 40 yards wide, Containing but little timber, Some few Cotton
willow Willow & Birch, and the Srubs common to the countrey and before
mentioned at 5 oClock a thunder Storm from the N. W. accompanied with rain
which lasted about 40 minits. — despatched R Fields to hunt Shannon,
who was out huntg. on Wisdom river at the time I returned down that
Stream, and has made on up the river expecting us to follow him up that
river one Deer killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence
number of Beaver orter Muskrats &c.
[Lewis, August 8, 1805]
Thursday August 8th 1805. We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe
had been left we had now more hads to spear for the chase; game being
scarce it requires more hunters to supply us. we therefore dispatched four
this morning. we set out at sunrise and continued our rout up the river
which we find much more gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom
river it is from 35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends
constituteing large and general bends; insomuch that altho we travel
briskly and a considerable distance yet it takes us only a few miles on
our general course or rout. there is but very little timber on this fork
principally the under brush frequently mentioned. I observe a considerable
quantity of the buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the sunflower, flax, green
swoard, thistle and several species of the rye grass some of which rise to
the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass also with a soft smooth leaf
that bears it's seeds very much like the timothy but it dose not grow very
luxouriant or appear as if it would answer so well as the common timothy
for meadows. I preserved some of it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking
perhaps it might answer better if cultivated, at all events is at least
worth the experi-ment. it rises about 3 feet high. on a direct line about
2 miles above our encampment of this morning we passed the entrance of
Philanthrophy River which discharges itself by 2 channels a small distance
assunder. this river from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt
heads with Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that
direction. at Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had been up
Wisdom river some miles above where it entered the mountain and could find
nothing of Shannon, he had killed a deer and an Antelope. great quantity
of beaver Otter and musk-rats in these rivers. two of the hunters we sent
out this morning returned at noon had killed each a deer and an Antelope.
we use the seting poles today almost altogether. we encamped on the Lard
sides where there was but little timber were obliged to use willow brush
for fuel; the rosebushes and bryers were very thick. the hunters brought
in another deer this evening. to tumor on Capt. Clarks ankle has
discharged a considerable quantity of matter but is still much swolen and
inflamed and gives him considerable pain. saw a number of Gees ducks and
some Crains today. the former begin to fly.
the evening again proved cloudy much to my mortification and prevented my
making any lunar observations. the Indian woman recognized the point of a
high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant from
the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains which
runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the beaver's head
from a conceived remblance of it's figure to the head of that animal. she
assures us that we shall either find her people on this river or on the
river immediately west of it's source; which from it's present size cannot
be very distant. as it is now all important with us to meet with those
people as soon as possible, I determined to proceed tomorrow with a small
party to the source of the principal stream of this river and pass the
mountains to the Columbia; and down that river untill I found the Indians;
in short it is my resolusion to find them or some others, who have horses
if it should cause me a trip of one month. for without horses we shall be
obliged to leave a great part of our stores, of which, it appears to me
that we have a stock already sufficiently small for the length of the
voyage before us.
[Clark, August 8, 1805]
August 8th Thursday 1805 We proceeded on early wind from the S W. The
Thermometer at 52 a 0 at Sunrise at 5 miles by water & 41/2 on a
derect line from the forks we passed a River on the Lard Side 30 yards
wide and navagable for Some distance takeing its rise in the Mountains
Easterly & with the waters of Madisons River, passes thro an extensive
vallie open & furtill &c. this river we call Philanthophy — above
this river (which has but little timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with
Short bends a fiew Islands and maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber,
Small willow Birch & Srubs &c. Encamped on the Lard Side, R Fields
joined us this eveng. & informes that he could not find Shannon my
foot yet verry Swore
[Lewis, August 9, 1805]
Friday August 9th 1805. The morning was fair and fine; we set out at an
early hour and proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more rapid
than yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a point which I
presumed they would reach by 8 A.M. our usual time of halting. by this
means I acquired leasure to accomplish some wrightings which I conceived
from the nature of my instructions necessary lest any accedent should
befall me on the long and reather hazardous rout I was now about to take.
the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile and met them, here
they halted and we breakefasted; I had killed two fine gees on my return.
while we halted here Shannon arrived, and informed us that having missed
the party the day on which he set out he had returned the next morning to
the place from whence he had set out or furst left them and not finding
that he had supposed that they wer above him; that he then set out and
marched one day up wisdom river, by which time he was convinced that they
were not above him as the river could not be navigated; he then returned
to the forks and had pursued us up this river. he brought the skins of
three deer which he had killed which he said were in good order. he had
lived very plentifully this trip but looked a good deel worried with his
march. he informed us that Wisdom river still kept it's course obliquely
down the Jefferson's river as far as he was up it. immediately after
breakfast I slung my pack and set out accompanyed by Drewyer Shields and
McNeal who had been previously directed to hold themselves in readiness
for this service. I directed my course across the bottom to the Stard.
plain led left the beaver's head about 2 miles to my left and interscepted
the river about 8 miles from the point at which I had left it; I then
waded it and continued my rout to the point where I could observe that it
entered the mountain, but not being able to reach that place, changed my
direction to the river which I struck some miles below the mountain and
encamped for the evening having traveled 16 M. we passed a handsom little
stream formed by some large spring which rise in this wide bottom on the
Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes on our way and brought
with us as much meat as was necessary for our suppers and breakfast the
next morning. we found this bottom fertile and covered with taller grass
than usual. the river very crooked much divided by islands, shallow rocky
in many plases and very rapid; insomuch that I have my doubts whether the
canoes could get on or not, or if they do it must be with great labour. — Capt.
Clark proceeded after I left him as usual, found the current of the river
increasing in rapidity towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes
only. in the evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain
attended with some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome
this evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies covered with turf.
the earth of which this mud is composed is white or bluish white and
appears to be argillacious.
[Clark, August 9, 1805]
August 9th Friday 1805 a fine morning wind from the N. E we proceeded on
verry well rapid places more noumerous than below, Shannon the man whome
we lost on Wisdom River Joined us, haveing returned to the forks &
prosued us up after prosueing Wisdom River one day
Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the river above,
find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians. I Should have taken
this trip had I have been able to march, from the rageing fury of a turner
on my anckle musle, in the evening Clouded up and a fiew drops of rain
Encamped on the Lard Side near a low bluff, the river to day as yesterday.
the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game of every kind
Scerce
[Lewis, August 10, 1805]
Saturday August 10th 1805. We set out very early this morning and
continued our rout through the wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river
after passing a large creek at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian
road which led towards the point that the river entered the mountain we
therefore pursued the road I sent Drewyer to the wright to kill a deer
which we saw feeding and halted on the river under an immencely high
perpendicular clift of rocks where it entered the mountain here we kindled
a fire and waited for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or
at noon with three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best of them, we
cooked and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning a shot distance to
the Indian road which led us the best way over the mountains, which are
not very high but ar ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides
just below these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large white
headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same common to our country.
from the number of rattle snakes about the Clifts at which we halted we
called them the rattle snake clifts. this serpent is the same before
discribed with oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the
mountains is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and withal
shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not so circuetous
and it's general course more direct, but it is equally shallow les divided
more rocky and rapid. we continued our rout along the Indian road which
led us sometimes over the hills and again in the narrow bottoms of the
river till at the distance of fifteen Ms. from the rattle snake Clifts we
arrived in a hadsome open and leavel vally where the river divided itself
nearly into two equal branches; here I halted and examined those streams
and readily discovered from their size that it would be vain to attempt
the navigation of either any further. here also the road forked one
leading up the vally of each of these streams. I therefore sent Drewer on
one and Shields on the other to examine these roads for a short distance
and to return and compare their information with respect to the size and
apparent plainness of the roads as I was now determined to pursue that
which appeared to have been the most traveled this spring. in the mean
time I wrote a note to Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which
had taken place, recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my
return and informing him of the rout I had taken which from the
information of the men on their return seemed to be in favour of the S W
or Left hand fork which is reather the smallest. accordingly I put up my
note on a dry willow pole at the forks, and set out up the S. E. fork,
after proceeding about 11/2 miles I discovered that the road became so
blind that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of
Jefferson's river, neither could I find the tracks of the horses which had
passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore determined to
return and examine the other myself, which I did, and found that the same
horses had passed up the West fork which was reather largest, and more in
the direction that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not hesitate about
changing my rout but determined to take the western road. I now wrote a
second note to Capt C. informing him of this change and sent Drewyer to
put it with the other at the forks and waited untill he returned. there is
scarcely any timber on the river above the R. Snake Clifts, nor is there
anything larger than willow brush in sight of these forks. immediately in
the level plain between the forks and about 1/2 a mile distance from them
stands a high rocky mountain, the base of which is surrounded by the level
plain; it has a singular appearance. the mountains do not appear very high
in any direction tho the tops of some of them are partially covered with
snow. this convinces me that we have ascended to a great hight since we
have entered the rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along
the vallies that it was scarcely perceptable by land. I do not beleive
that the world can furnish an example of a river runing to the extent
which the Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous
country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the Columbia
furnishes us such another example, a communication across the continent by
water will be practicable and safe. but this I can scarcely hope from a
knowledge of its having in it comparitively short course to the ocean the
same number of feet to decend which the Missouri and Mississippi have from
this point to the Gulph of Mexico.
The valley of the west fork through which we passed for four miles boar a
little to N of West and was about 1 mile wide hemned in on either side by
rough mountain and steep Clifts of rock at 41/2 miles this stream enters a
beatifull and extensive plain about ten miles long and from 5 to six in
width. this plain is surrounded on all sides by a country of roling or
high wavy plains through which several little rivulets extend their wide
vallies quite to the Mountains which surround the whole in an apparent
Circular manner; forming one of the handsomest coves I ever saw, of about
16 or 18 miles in diameter. just after entering this cove the river bends
to the N. W. and runs close under the Stard. hills. here we killed a deer
and encamped on the Stard.,side and made our fire of dry willow brush, the
only fuel which the country produces. there are not more than three or
four cottonwood trees in this extensive cove and they are but small. the
uplands are covered with prickly pears and twisted or bearded grass and
are but poor; some parts of the bottom lands are covered with grass and
tolerably fertile; but much the greater proportion is covered with prickly
pears sedge twisted grass the pulpy leafed thorn southernwood wild sage
&c and like the uplands is very inferior in point of soil. we traveled
by estimate 30 Ms. today, that is 10 to the Rattle snake Clift, 15 to the
forks of Jefferson's river and 5 to our camp in the cove. at the apparent
extremity of the bottom above us two perpendicular clifts of considerable
hight stand on either side of the river and appers at this distance like a
gate, it is about 10 M. due West.
Capt Clark set out at sunrise this morning and pursued his rout; found the
river not rapid but shallow also very crooked. they were obliged to drag
the canoes over many riffles in the course of the day. they passed the
point which the natives call the beaver's head. it is a steep rocky clift
of 150 feet high near the Stard. side of the river, opposite to it at the
distance of 300 yards is a low clift of about 50 feet which is the
extremity of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles distant on Lard. at 4
P.M. they experienced a heavy shower of rain attended with hail thunder
and Lightning which continued about an hour. the men defended themselves
from the hail by means of the willow bushes but all the party got
perfectly wet. after the shower was over they pursued their march and
encamped on the stard side only one deer killed by their hunters today.
tho they took up another by the way which had been killed three days
before by Jos. Fields and hung up near the river.
[Clark, August 10, 1805]
August 10th Satturday 1805 Some rain this morning at Sun rise and Cloudy
we proceeded on passed a remarkable Clift point on the Stard. Side about
150 feet high, this Clift the Indians Call the Beavers head, opposit at
300 yards is a low clift of 50 feet which is a Spur from the Mountain on
the Lard. about 4 miles, the river verry Crooked, at 4 oClock a hard rain
from the S W accompanied with hail Continued half an hour, all wet, the
men Sheltered themselves from the hail with bushes We Encamped on the
Stard Side near a Bluff, only one Deer killed to day, the one killed Jo
Fields 3 Days past & hung up we made use of river narrow, & Sholey
but not rapid.
[Lewis, August 11, 1805]
Sunday August 11th 1805. We set out very early this morning; but the track
which we had pursued last evening soon disappeared. I therefore resolved
to proceed to the narrow pass on the creek about 10 miles West in hopes
that I should again find the Indian road at the place, accordingly I
passed the river which was about 12 yards wide and bared in several places
entirely across by beaver dams and proceeded through the level plain
directly to the pass. I now sent Drewyer to keep near the creek to my
right and Shields to my left, with orders to surch for the road which if
they found they were to notify me by placing a hat in the muzzle of their
gun. I kept McNeal with me; after having marched in this order for about
five miles I discovered an Indian on horse back about two miles distant
coming down the plain toward us. with my glass I discovered from his dress
that he was of a different nation from any that we had yet seen, and was
satisfyed of his being a Sosone; his arms were a bow and quiver of arrows,
and was mounted on an eligant horse without a saddle, and a small string
which was attatched to the underjaw of the horse which answered as a
bridle. I was overjoyed at the sight of this stranger and had no doubt of
obtaining a friendly introduction to his nation provided I could get near
enough to him to convince him of our being whitemen. I therefore proceeded
towards him at my usual pace. when I had arrived within about a mile he
mad a halt which I did also and unloosing my blanket from my pack, I mad
him the signal of friendship known to the Indians of the Rocky mountains
and those of the Missouri, which is by holding the mantle or robe in your
hands at two corners and then throwing up in the air higher than the head
bringing it to the earth as if in the act of spreading it, thus repeating
three times. this signal of the robe has arrisen from a custom among all
those nations of spreading a robe or skin for ther gests to set on when
they are visited. this signal had not the desired effect, he still kept
his position and seemed to view Drewyer an Shields who were now comiming
in sight on either hand with an air of suspicion, I wold willingly have
made them halt but they were too far distant to hear me and I feared to
make any signal to them least it should increase the suspicion in the mind
of the Indian of our having some unfriendly design upon him. I therefore
haistened to take out of my sack some beads a looking glas and a few
trinkets which I had brought with me for this purpose and leaving my gun
and pouch with McNeal advanced unarmed towards him. he remained in the
same stedfast poisture untill I arrived in about 200 paces of him when he
turn his hose about and began to move off slowly from me; I now called to
him in as loud a voice as I could command repeating the word tab-ba-bone,
which in their language signifyes white man. but loking over his sholder
he still kept his eye on Drewyer and Sheilds who wer still advancing
neither of them haveing segacity enough to recollect the impropriety of
advancing when they saw me thus in parley with the Indian. I now made a
signal to these men to halt, Drewyer obeyed but Shields who afterwards
told me that he did not obseve the signal still kept on the Indian halted
again and turned his horse about as if to wait for me, and I beleive he
would have remained untill I came up whith him had it not been for Shields
who still pressed forward. whe I arrived within about 150 paces I again
repepeated the word tab-ba-bone and held up the trinkits in my hands and
striped up my shirt sieve to give him an opportunity of seeing the colour
of my skin and advanced leasure towards him but he did not remain untill I
got nearer than about 100 paces when he suddonly turned his hose about,
gave him the whip leaped the creek and disapeared in the willow brush in
an instant and with him vanished all my hopes of obtaining horses for the
preasent. I now felt quite as much mortification and disappointment as I
had pleasure and expectation at the first sight of this indian. I fet
soarly chargrined at the conduct of the men particularly Sheilds to whom I
principally attributed this failure in obtaining an introduction to the
natives. I now called the men to me and could not forbare abraiding them a
little for their want of attention and imprudence on this occasion. they
had neglected to bring my spye-glass which in haist I had droped in the
plain with the blanket where I made the signal before mentioned. I sent
Drewyer and Shields back to surche it, they soon found it and rejoined me.
we now set out on the track of the horse hoping by that means to be lead
to an indian camp, the trail of inhabitants of which should they abscond
we should probably be enabled to pursue to the body of the nation to which
they would most probably fly for safety. this rout led us across a large
Island framed by nearly an equal division of the creek in this bottom;
after passing to the open ground on the N. side of the creek we observed
that the track made out toward the high hills about 3 m. distant in that
direction. I thought it probable that their camp might probably be among
those hills & that they would reconnoiter us from the tops of them,
and that if we advanced haistily towards them that they would become
allarmed and probably run off; I therefore halted in an elivated situation
near the creek had a fire kindled of willow brush cooked and took
breakfast. during this leasure I prepared a small assortment of trinkits
consisting of some mockkerson awls a few strans of several kinds of beads
some paint a looking glass &c which I attatched to the end of a pole
and planted it near our fire in order that should the Indians return in
surch of us they might from this token discover that we were friendly and
white persons. before we had finised our meal a heavy shower of rain came
on with some hail wich continued abot 20 minutes and wet us to the skin,
after this shower we pursued the track of the horse but as the rain had
raised the grass which he had trodden down it was with difficulty that we
could follow it. we pursued it however about 4 miles it turning up the
valley to the left under the foot of the hills. we pas several places
where the Indians appeared to have been diging roots today and saw the
fresh tracks of 8 or ten horses but they had been wandering about in such
a confused manner that we not only lost the track of the hose which we had
been pursuing but could make nothing of them. in the head of this valley
we passed a large bog covered with tall grass and moss in which were a
great number of springs of cold pure water, we now turned a little to the
left along the foot of the high hills and arrived at a small branch on
which we encamped for the night, having traveled in different directions
about 20 Miles and about 10 from the camp of last evening on a direct
line. after meeting with the Indian today I fixed a small flag of the U'S.
to a pole which I made McNeal carry. and planted in the ground where we
halted or encamped.
This morning Capt Clark dispatched several hunters a head; the morning
being rainy and wet did not set out untill after an early breakfast. he
passed a large Island which he called the 3000 mile Island from the
circumstance of it's being that distance from the entrance of the Missouri
by water. a considerable proportion of the bottom on Lard. side is a bog
covered with tall grass and many parts would afford fine turf; the bottom
is about 8 Ms. wide and the plains which succeed it on either side extend
about the same distance to the base of the mountains. they passed a number
of small Islands and bayous on both sides which cut and intersect the
bottoms in various directions. found the river shallow and rapid, insomuch
that the men wer compelled to be in the water a considerable proportion of
the day in drageing the canoes over the shoals and riffles. they saw a
number of geese ducks beaver & otter, also some deer and antelopes.
the men killed a beaver with a seting pole and tommahawked several Otter.
the hunters killed 3 deer and an Antelope. Capt. C. observed some bunches
of privy near the river. there are but few trees in this botom and those
small narrow leafed Cottonwood. the principal growth is willow with the
narrow leaf and Currant bushes. they encamped this evening on the upper
point of a large Island near the Stard. shore.
[Clark, August 11, 1805]
August 11th Sunday 1805. a Shower of rain this morning at Sun rise, Cloudy
all the morning wind from the S W passed a large Island which I call the
3000 mile Island as it is Situated that distance from the mouth of the
Missouri by water, a number of Small Bayoes running in different
directions thro the Bottom, which is about 5 miles wide, then rises to an
ellivated plain on each Side which extends as far. passed Several Small
Islands and a number of Bayoes on each Side and Encamped on the upper
point of a large Island, our hunters killed three Deer, one antilope, and
Tomahawked Several Orter to day killed one Beaver with a Setting pole. I
observed Some bunches of Privey on the banks
[Lewis, August 12, 1805]
Monday August 12th 1805 This morning I sent Drewyer out as soon as it was
light, to try and discover what rout the Indians had taken. he followed
the track of the horse we had pursued yesterday to the mountain wher it
had ascended, and returned to me in about an hour and a half. I now
determined to pursue the base of the mountains which form this cove to the
S. W. in the expectation of finding some Indian road which lead over the
Mountains, accordingly I sent Drewyer to my right and Shields to my left
with orders to look out for a road or the fresh tracks of horses either of
which we should first meet with I had determined to pursue. at the
distance of about 4 miles we passed 4 small rivulets near each other on
which we saw som resent bowers or small conic lodges formed with willow
brush. near them the indians had geathered a number of roots from the
manner in which they had toarn up the ground; but I could not discover the
root which they seemed to be in surch of. I saw several large hawks that
were nearly black near this place we fell in with a large and plain Indian
road which came into the cove from the N. E. and led along the foot of the
mountains to the S. W. oliquely approaching the main stream which we had
left yesterday. this road we now pursued to the S. W. at 5 miles it passed
a stout stream which is a principal fork of the man stream and falls into
it just above the narrow pass between the two clifts before mentioned and
which we now saw below us. here we halted and breakfasted on the last of
our venison, having yet a small peice of pork in reseve. after eating we
continued our rout through the low bottom of the main stream along the
foot of the mountains on our right the valley for 5 mes. further in a S.
W. direction was from 2 to 3 miles wide the main stream now after
discarding two stream on the left in this valley turns abruptly to the
West through a narrow bottom betwen the mountains. the road was still
plain, I therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over the
mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this evening.
we saw an animal which we took to be of the fox kind as large or reather
larger than the small wolf of the plains. it's colours were a curious
mixture of black, redis-brown and yellow. Drewyer shot at him about 130
yards and knocked him dow bet he recovered and got out of our reach. it is
certainly a different animal from any that we have yet seen. we also saw
several of the heath cock with a long pointed tail and an uniform dark
brown colour but could not kill one of them. they are much larger than the
common dunghill fowls, and in their habits and manner of flying resemble
the growse or prarie hen. at the distance of 4 miles further the road took
us to the most distant fountain of the waters of the mighty Missouri in
surch of which we have spent so many toilsome days and wristless nights.
thus far I had accomplished one of those great objects on which my mind
has been unalterably fixed for many years, judge then of the pleasure I
felt in allying my thirst with this pure and ice cold water which issues
from the base of a low mountain or hill of a gentle ascent for 1/2 a mile.
the mountains are high on either hand leave this gap at the head of this
rivulet through which the road passes. here I halted a few minutes and
rested myself. two miles below McNeal had exultingly stood with a foot on
each side of this little rivulet and thanked his god that he had lived to
bestride the mighty & heretofore deemed endless Missouri. after
refreshing ourselves we proceeded on to the top of the dividing ridge from
which I discovered immence ranges of high mountains still to the West of
us with their tops partially covered with snow. I now decended the
mountain about 3/4 of a mile which I found much steeper than on the
opposite side, to a handsome bold running Creek of cold Clear water. here
I first tasted the water of the great Columbia river. after a short halt
of a few minutes we continued our march along the Indian road which lead
us over steep hills and deep hollows to a spring on the side of a mountain
where we found a sufficient quantity of dry willow brush for fuel, here we
encamped for the night having traveled about 20 Miles. as we had killed
nothing during the day we now boiled and eat the remainder of our pork,
having yet a little flour and parched meal. at the creek on this side of
the mountain I observed a species of deep perple currant lower in its
growth, the stem more branched and leaf doubly as large as that of the
Missouri. the leaf is covered on it's under disk with a hairy pubersence.
the fruit is of the ordinary size and shape of the currant and is
supported in the usual manner, but is ascid & very inferior in point
of flavor.
this morning Capt. Clark set out early. found the river shoally, rapid
shallow, and extreemly difficult. the men in the water almost all day.
they are geting weak soar and much fortiegued; they complained of the
fortiegue to which the navigation subjected them and wished to go by land
Capt. C. engouraged them and passifyed them. one of the canoes was very
near overseting in a rapid today. they proceeded but slowly. at noon they
had a thunderstorm which continued about half an hour. their hunters
killed 3 deer and a fawn. they encamped in a smoth plain near a few
cottonwood trees on the Lard. side.
[Clark, August 12, 1805]
August 12th Monday 1805 We Set out early (Wind N E) proceeded on passed
Several large Islands and three Small ones, the river much more Sholey
than below which obliges us to haul the Canoes over those Sholes which
Suckceed each other at Short intervales emencely laborious men much
fatigued and weakened by being continualy in the water drawing the Canoes
over the Sholes encamped on the Lard Side men complain verry much of the
emence labour they are obliged to undergo & wish much to leave the
river. I passify them. the weather Cool, and nothing to eate but venison,
the hunters killed three Deer to day
[Lewis, August 13, 1805]
Tuesday August 13th 1805. We set out very early on the Indian road which
still led us through an open broken country in a westerly direction. a
deep valley appeared to our left at the base of a high range of mountains
which extended from S. E. to N. W. having their sides better clad with
pine timber than we had been accustomed to see the mountains and their
tops were also partially covered with snow. at the distance of five miles
the road after leading us down a long decending valley for 2 Ms. brought
us to a large creek about 10 yds. wide; this we passed and on rising the
hill beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley to our left of about
a mile in width through which from the appearance of the timber I
conjectured that a river passed. I saw near the creek some bushes of the
white maple, the shumate of the small species with the winged rib, and a
species of honeysuckle much in it's growth and leaf like the small
honeysuckle of the Missouri only reather larger and bears a globular berry
as large as a garden pea and as white as wax. this berry is formed of a
thin smooth pellicle which envellopes a soft white musilagenous substance
in which there are several small brown seed irregularly scattered or
intermixed without any sell or perceptable membranous covering. — we
had proceeded about four miles through a wavy plain parallel to the valley
or river bottom when at the distance of about a mile we saw two women, a
man and some dogs on an eminence immediately before us. they appeared to
vew us with attention and two of them after a few minutes set down as if
to wait our arrival we continued our usual pace towards them. when we had
arrived within half a mile of them I directed the party to halt and
leaving my pack and rifle I took the flag which I unfurled and avanced
singly towards them the women soon disappeared behind the hill, the man
continued untill I arrived within a hundred yards of him and then likewise
absconded. tho I frequently repeated the word tab-ba-bone sufficiently
loud for him to have heard it. I now haistened to the top of the hill
where they had stood but could see nothing of them. the dogs were less
shye than their masters they came about me pretty close I therefore
thought of tying a handkerchief about one of their necks with some beads
and other trinkets and then let them loose to surch their fugitive owners
thinking by this means to convince them of our pacific disposition towards
them but the dogs would not suffer me to take hold of them; they also soon
disappeared. I now made a signal fror the men to come on, they joined me
and we pursued the back tarck of these Indians which lead us along the
same road which we had been traveling. the road was dusty and appeared to
have been much traveled lately both by men and horses. these praries are
very poor the soil is of a light yellow clay, intermixed with small smooth
gravel, and produces little else but prickly pears, and bearded grass
about 3 inches high. the prickley pear are of three species that with a
broad leaf common to the missouri; that of a globular form also common to
the upper part of the Missouri and more especially after it enters the
Rocky Mountains, also a 3rd peculiar to this country. it consists of small
circular thick leaves with a much greater number of thorns. these thorns
are stronger and appear to be barbed. the leaves grow from the margins of
each other as in the broad leafed pear of the missouri, but are so
slightly attatched that when the thorn touches your mockerson it adhears
and brings with it the leaf covered in every direction with many others.
this is much the most troublesome plant of the three. we had not continued
our rout more than a mile when we were so fortunate as to meet with three
female savages. the short and steep ravines which we passed concealed us
from each other untill we arrived within 30 paces. a young woman
immediately took to flight, an Elderly woman and a girl of about 12 years
old remained. I instantly laid by my gun and advanced towards them. they
appeared much allarmed but saw that we were to near for them to escape by
flight they therefore seated themselves on the ground, holding down their
heads as if reconciled to die which the expected no doubt would be their
fate; I took the elderly woman by the hand and raised her up repeated the
word tab-babone and strip up my shirt sieve to sew her my skin; to prove
to her the truth of the ascertion that I was a white man for my face and
hads which have been constantly exposed to the sun were quite as dark as
their own. they appeared instantly reconciled, and the men coming up I
gave these women some beads a few mockerson awls some pewter
looking-glasses and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to request the old
woman to recall the young woman who had run off to some distance by this
time fearing she might allarm the camp before we approached and might so
exasperate the natives that they would perhaps attack us without enquiring
who we were. the old woman did as she was requested and the fugitive soon
returned almost out of breath. I bestoed an equvolent portion of trinket
on her with the others. I now painted their tawny cheeks with some
vermillion which with this nation is emblematic of peace. after they had
become composed I informed them by signs that I wished them to conduct us
to their camp that we wer anxious to become acquainted with the chiefs and
warriors of their nation. they readily obeyed and we set out, still
pursuing the road down the river. we had marched about 2 miles when we met
a party of about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in
nearly full speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag
leaving my gun with the party about 50 paces behid me. the chief and two
others who were a little in advance of the main body spoke to the women,
and they informed them who we were and exultingly shewed the presents
which had been given them these men then advanced and embraced me very
affectionately in their way which is by puting their left arm over you
wright sholder clasping your back, while they apply their left cheek to
yours and frequently vociforate the word ah-hi'-e, &h-hi'-e that is, I
am much pleased, I am much rejoiced. bothe parties now advanced and we wer
all carresed and besmeared with their grease and paint till I was heartily
tired of the national hug. I now had the pipe lit and gave them smoke;
they seated themselves in a circle around us and pulled of their
mockersons before they would receive or smoke the pipe. this is a custom
among them as I afterwards learned indicative of a sacred obligation of
sincerity in their profession of friendship given by the act of receiving
and smoking the pipe of a stranger. or which is as much as to say that
they wish they may always go bearfoot if they are not sincere; a pretty
heavy penalty if they are to march through the plains of their country.
after smoking a few pipes with them I distributed some trifles among them,
with which they seemed much pleased particularly with the blue beads and
vermillion. I now informed the chief that the object of our visit was a
friendly one, that after we should reach his camp I would undertake to
explain to him fully those objects, who we wer, from whence we had come
and wither we were going; that in the mean time I did not care how soon we
were in motion, as the sun was very warm and no water at hand. they now
put on their mockersons, and the principal chief Ca-me-ah-wait made a
short speach to the warriors. I gave him the flag which I informed him was
an emblem of peace among whitemen and now that it had been received by him
it was to be respected as the bond of union between us. I desired him to
march on, which did and we followed him; the dragoons moved on in squadron
in our rear. after we had marched about a mile in this order he halted
them ang gave a second harang; after which six or eight of the young men
road forward to their encampment and no further regularity was observed in
the order of march. I afterwards understood that the Indians we had first
seen this morning had returned and allarmed the camp; these men had come
out armed cap a pe for action expecting to meet with their enemies the
Minnetares of Fort de Prarie whome they Call Rah'-kees. they were armed
with bows arrow and Shield except three whom I observed with small pieces
such as the N. W. Company furnish the natives with which they had obtained
from the Rocky Mountain Indians on the yellow stone river with whom they
are at peace. on our arrival at their encampmen on the river in a handsome
level and fertile bottom at the distance of 4 Ms. from where we had first
met them they introduced us to a londge made of willow brush and an old
leather lodge which had been prepared for our reception by the young men
which the chief had dispatched for that purpose. Here we were seated on
green boughs and the skins of Antelopes. one of the warriors then pulled
up the grass in the center of the lodge forming a smal circle of about 2
feet in diameter the chief next produced his pipe and native tobacco and
began a long cerimony of the pipe when we were requested to take of our
mockersons, the Chief having previously taken off his as well as all the
warriors present. this we complyed with; the Chief then lit his pipe at
the fire kindled in this little magic circle, and standing on the oposite
side of the circle uttered a speach of several minutes in length at the
conclusion of which he pointed the stem to the four cardinal points of the
heavens first begining at the East and ending with the North. he now
presented the pipe to me as if desirous that I should smoke, but when I
reached my hand to receive it, he drew it back and repeated the same
cremony three times, after which he pointed the stern first to the heavens
then to the center of the magic circle smoked himself with three whifs and
held the pipe untill I took as many as I thought proper; he then held it
to each of the white persons and then gave it to be consumed by his
warriors. this pipe was made of a dense simitransparent green stone very
highly polished about 21/2 inches long and of an oval figure, the bowl
being in the same direction with the stem. a small piece of birned clay is
placed in the bottom of the bowl to seperate the tobacco from the end of
the stem and is of an irregularly rounded figure not fitting the tube
purfectly close in order that the smoke may pass. this is the form of the
pipe. their tobacco is of the same kind of that used by the Minnetares
Mandans and Ricares of the Missouri. the Shoshonees do not cultivate this
plant, but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians and some of the bands
of their own nation who live further south. I now explained to them the
objects of our journey &c. all the women and children of the camp were
shortly collected about the lodge to indulge themselves with looking at
us, we being the first white persons they had ever seen. after the
cerimony of the pipe was over I distributed the remainder of the small
articles I had brought with me among the women and children. by this time
it was late in the evening and we had not taisted any food since the
evening before. the Chief informed us that they had nothing but berries to
eat and gave us some cakes of serviceberries and Choke cherries which had
been dryed in the sun; of these I made a hearty meal, and then walked to
the river, which I found about 40 yards wide very rapid clear and about 3
feet deep. the banks low and abrupt as those of the upper part of the
Missouri, and the bed formed of loose stones and gravel. Cameahwait
informed me that this stream discharged itself into another doubly as
large at the distance of half a days march which came from the S. W. but
he added on further enquiry that there was but little more timber below
the junction of those rivers than I saw here, and that the river was
confined between inacessable mountains, was very rapid and rocky insomuch
that it was impossible for us to pass either by land or water down this
river to the great lake where the white men lived as he had been informed.
this was unwelcome information but I still hoped that this account had
been exagerated with a view to detain us among them. as to timber I could
discover not any that would answer the purpose of constructing canoes or
in short more than was bearly necessary for fuel consisting of the narrow
leafed cottonwood and willow, also the red willow Choke Cherry service
berry and a few currant bushes such as were common on the Missouri. these
people had been attacked by the Minetares of Fort de prarie this spring
and about 20 of them killed and taken prisoners. on this occasion they
lost a great part of their horses and all their lodges except that which
they had erected for our accomodation; they were now living in lodges of a
conic figure made of willow brush. I still observe a great number of
horses feeding in every direction around their camp and therefore
entertain but little doubt but we shall be enable to furnish ourselves
with an adiquate number to transport our stores even if we are compelled
to travel by land over these mountains. on my return to my lodge an indian
called me in to his bower and gave me a small morsel of the flesh of an
antelope boiled, and a peice of a fresh salmon roasted; both which I eat
with a very good relish. this was the first salmon I had seen and
perfectly convinced me that we were on the waters of the Pacific Ocean.
the course of this river is a little to the North of west as far as I can
discover it; and is bounded on each side by a range of high Mountains. tho
those on the E. side are lowest and more distant from the river.
This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all
night. at 12 O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to
amuse themselves with the Indians. I observe no essential difference
between the music and manner of dancing among this nation and those of the
Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the night by their
yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable sound
night's repose.
This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some
hunters ahead. it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8
A.M. they had a slight rain. they passed a number of shoals over which
they were obliged to drag the canoes; the men in the water 3/4ths of the
day, they passed a bold runing stream 7 yds. wide on the Lard. side just
below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call McNeal's Creek
after Hugh McNeal one of our party. this creek heads in the Mountains to
the East and forms a handsome valley for some miles between the mountains.
from the top of this limestone Clift above the creek The beaver's head
boar N 24° E. 12 Ms. the course of Wisdom river or that which the opening
of it's valley makes through the mountains is N. 25° W. to the gap through
which Jefferson's river enters the mountains above is S 18° W 10 M. they
killed one deer only today. saw a number of Otter some beaver Antelopes
ducks gees and Grains. they caught a number of fine trout as they have
every day since I left them. they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth level
prarie near a few cottonwood trees, but were obliged to make use of the
dry willow brush for fuel.
[Clark, August 13, 1805]
August 13th Tuesday 1805 a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52
a 0 all the fore part of the day. Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we
proceeded on passed inumerable Sholes obliged to haul the boat 3/4 of the
Day over the Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7
yards wide on the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the
Stard Side this Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a
Vallie between two mountains. Call this stream McNeal Creek From the top
of this rock the Point of the Beaver head hill bears N. 24° E 12° ms.
The Course of the Wisdom river is — N. 25° W
The gap at the place the river passes thro a mountain in advance is — S.
18° W. 10 ms.
proceeded on and Encamped on the Lard side no wood except dry willows and
them Small, one Deer killed to day. The river obliges the men to undergo
great fatigue and labour in hauling the Canoes over the Sholes in the Cold
water naked.
[Lewis, August 14, 1805]
Wednesday August 14th In order to give Capt. Clark time to reach the forks
of Jefferson's river I concluded to spend this day at the Shoshone Camp
and obtain what information I could with rispect to the country. as we had
nothing but a little flour and parched meal to eat except the berries with
which the Indians furnished us I directed Drewyer and Shields to hunt a
few hours and try to kill something, the Indians furnished them with
horses and most of their young men also turned out to hunt. the game which
they principally hunt is the Antelope which they pursue on horseback and
shoot with their arrows. this animal is so extreemly fleet and dureable
that a single horse has no possible chance to overtake them or run them
down. the Indians are therefore obliged to have recorce to strategem when
they discover a herd of the Antelope they seperate and scatter themselves
to the distance of five or six miles in different directions arround them
generally scelecting some commanding eminence for a stand; some one or two
now pursue the herd at full speed over the hills values gullies and the
sides of precipices that are tremendious to view. thus after runing them
from five to six or seven miles the fresh horses that were in waiting head
them and drive them back persuing them as far or perhaps further quite to
the other extreem of the hunters who now in turn pursue on their fresh
horses thus worrying the poor animal down and finally killing them with
their arrows. forty or fifty hunters will be engaged for half a day in
this manner and perhaps not kill more than two or three Antelopes. they
have but few Elk or black tailed deer, and the common red deer they cannot
take as they secrete themselves in the brush when pursued, and they have
only the bow and arrow wich is a very slender dependence for killing any
game except such as they can run down with their horses. I was very much
entertained with a view of this indian chase; it was after a herd of about
10 Antelope and about 20 hunters. it lasted about 2 hours and considerable
part of the chase in view from my tent. about 1 A.M. the hunters returned
had not killed a single Antelope, and their horses foaming with sweat. my
hunters returned soon after and had been equally unsuccessfull. I now
directed McNeal to make me a little paist with the flour and added some
berries to it which I found very pallateable.
The means I had of communicating with these people was by way of Drewyer
who understood perfectly the common language of jesticulation or signs
which seems to be universally understood by all the Nations we have yet
seen. it is true that this language is imperfect and liable to error but
is much less so than would be expected. the strong parts of the ideas are
seldom mistaken.
I now prevailed on the Chief to instruct me with rispect to the geography
of his country. this he undertook very cheerfully, by delienating the
rivers on the ground. but I soon found that his information fell far short
of my expectation or wishes. he drew the river on which we now are to
which he placed two branches just above us, which he shewed me from the
openings of the mountains were in view; he next made it discharge itself
into a large river which flowed from the S. W. about ten miles below us,
then continued this joint stream in the same direction of this valley or
N. W. for one days march and then enclined it to the West for 2 more days
march, here he placed a number of beeps of sand on each side which he
informed me represented the vast mountains of rock eternally covered with
snow through which the river passed. that the perpendicular and even
juting rocks so closely hemned in the river that there was no possibilyte
of passing along the shore; that the bed of the river was obstructed by
sharp pointed rocks and the rapidity of the stream such that the whole
surface of the river was beat into perfect foam as far as the eye could
reach. that the mountains were also inaccessible to man or horse. he said
that this being the state of the country in that direction that himself
nor none of his nation had ever been further down the river than these
mountains. I then enquired the state of the country on either side of the
river but he could not inform me. he said there was an old man of his
nation a days march below who could probably give me some information of
the country to the N. W. and refered me to an old man then present for
that to the S. W. — the Chief further informed me that he had
understood from the persed nosed Indians who inhabit this river below the
rocky mountains that it ran a great way toward the seting sun and finally
lost itself in a great lake of water which was illy taisted, and where the
white men lived. I next commenced my enquiries of the old man to whom I
had been refered for information relative the country S W. of us. this he
depicted with horrors and obstructions scarcely inferior to that just
mentioned. he informed me that the band of this nation to which he
belonged resided at the distance of 20 days march from hence not far from
the white people with whom they traded for horses mules cloth metal beads
and the shells which they woar as orniment being those of a species of
perl oister. that the course to his relations was a little to the West of
South. that in order to get to his relations the first seven days we
should be obliged to climb over steep and rocky mountains where we could
find no game to kill nor anything but roots such as a ferce and warlike
nation lived on whom he called the broken mockersons or mockersons with
holes, and said inhabited those mountains and lived like the bear of other
countries among the rocks and fed on roots or the flesh of such horses as
they could take or steel from those who passed through their country. that
in passing this country the feet of our horses would be so much wounded
with the stones many of them would give out. the next part of the rout was
about 10 days through a dry and parched sandy desert in which no food at
this season for either man or horse, and in which we must suffer if not
perish for the want of water. that the sun had now dryed up the little
pools of water which exist through this desert plain in the spring season
and had also scorched all the grass. that no animal inhabited this plain
on which we could hope to subsist. that about the center of this plain a
large river passed from S. E. to N. W. which was navigable but afforded
neither Salmon nor timber. that beyond this plain thee or four days march
his relations lived in a country tolerable fertile and partially covered
with timber on another large river which ran in the same direction of the
former. that this last discharged itself into a large river on which many
numerous nations lived with whom his relations were at war but whether
this last discharged itself into the great lake or not he did not know.
that from his relations it was yet a great distance to the great or
stinking lake as they call the Ocean. that the way which such of his
nation as had been to the Stinking lake traveled was up the river on which
they lived and over to that on which the white people lived which last
they knew discharged itself into the Ocean, and that this was the way
which he would advise me to travel if I was determined to proceed to the
Ocean but would advise me to put off the journey untill the next spring
when he would conduct me. I thanked him for his information and advise and
gave him a knife with which he appeared to be much gratifyed. from this
narative I was convinced that the streams of which he had spoken as runing
through the plains and that on which his relations lived were southern
branches of the Columbia, heading with the rivers Apostles and Collorado,
and that the rout he had pointed out was to the Vermillion Sea or gulph of
Callifornia. I therefore told him that this rout was more to the South
than I wished to travel, and requested to know if there was no rout on the
left of this river on which we now are, by means of which, I could
intercept it below the mountains through which it passes; but he could not
inform me of any except that of the barren plain which he said joined the
mountain on that side and through which it was impossible for us to pass
at this season even if we were fortunate enough to escape from the broken
mockerson Indians. I now asked Cameahwait by what rout the Pierced nosed
indians, who he informed me inhabited this river below the mountains, came
over to the Missouri; this he informed me was to the north, but added that
the road was a very bad one as he had been informed by them and that they
had suffered excessively with hunger on the rout being obliged to subsist
for many days on berries alone as there was no game in that part of the
mountains which were broken rockey and so thickly covered with timber that
they could scarcely pass. however knowing that Indians had passed, and did
pass, at this season on that side of this river to the same below the
mountains, my rout was instantly settled in my own mind, povided the
account of this river should prove true on an investigation of it, which I
was determined should be made before we would undertake the rout by land
in any direction. I felt perfectly satisfyed, that if the Indians could
pass these mountains with their women and Children, that we could also
pass them; and that if the nations on this river below the mountains were
as numerous as they were stated to be that they must have some means of
subsistence which it would be equally in our power to procure in the same
country. they informed me that there was no buffaloe on the West side of
these mountains; that the game consisted of a few Elk deer and Antelopes,
and that the natives subsisted on fish and roots principally. in this
manner I spent the day smoking with them and acquiring what information I
could with respect to their country. they informed me that they could pass
to the Spaniards by the way of the yellowstone river in 10 days. I can
discover that these people are by no means friendly to the Spaniard their
complaint is, that the Spaniards will not let them have fire arms and
amunition, that they put them off by telling them that if they suffer them
to have guns they will kill each other, thus leaving them defenceless and
an easy prey to their bloodthirsty neighbours to the East of them, who
being in possession of fire arms hunt them up and murder them without
rispect to sex or age and plunder them of their horses on all occasions.
they told me that to avoid their enemies who were eternally harrassing
them that they were obliged to remain in the interior of these mountains
at least two thirds of the year where the suffered as we then saw great
heardships for the want of food sometimes living for weeks without meat
and only a little fish roots and berries. but this added Cameahwait, with
his ferce eyes and lank jaws grown meager for the want of food, would not
be the case if we had guns, we could then live in the country of buffaloe
and eat as our enimies do and not be compelled to hide ourselves in these
mountains and live on roots and berries as the bear do. we do not fear our
enimies when placed on an equal footing with them. I told them that the
Minnetares Mandans & Recares of the Missouri had promised us to desist
from making war on them & that we would indevour to find the means of
making the Minnetares of fort d Prarie or as they call them Pahkees desist
from waging war against them also. that after our finally returning to our
homes towards the rising sun whitemen would come to them with an abundance
of guns and every other article necessary to their defence and comfort,
and that they would be enabled to supply themselves with these articles on
reasonable terms in exchange for the skins of the beaver Otter and Ermin
so abundant in their country. they expressed great pleasure at this
information and said they had been long anxious to see the whitemen that
traded guns; and that we might rest assured of their friendship and that
they would do whatever we wished them.
I now told Cameahwait that I wished him to speak to his people and engage
them to go with me tomorrow to the forks of Jeffersons river where our
baggage was by this time arrived with another Chief and a large party of
whitemen who would wait my return at that place. that I wish them to take
with them about 30 spare horses to transport our baggage to this place
where we would then remain sometime among them and trade with them for
horses, and finally concert our future plans for geting on to the ocean
and of the traid which would be extended to them after our return to our
homes. he complyed with my request and made a lengthey harrangue to his
village. he returned in about an hour and a half and informed me that they
would be ready to accompany me in the morning. I promised to reward them
for their trouble. Drewyer who had had a good view of their horses
estimated them at 400. most of them are fine horses. indeed many of them
would make a figure on the South side of James River or the land of fine
horses. — I saw several with Spanish brands on them, and some mules
which they informed me that they had also obtained from the Spaniards. I
also saw a bridle bit of spanish manufactary, and sundry other articles
which I have no doubt were obtained from the same source. notwithstanding
the extreem poverty of those poor people they are very merry they danced
again this evening untill midnight. each warrior keep one ore more horses
tyed by a cord to a stake near his lodge both day and night and are always
prepared for action at a moments warning. they fight on horseback
altogether. lobserve that the large flies are extreemly troublesome to the
horses as well as ourselves.
The morning being cold and the men stif and soar from the exertions of
yesterday Capt. Clark did not set out this morning untill 7 A.M. the river
was so crooked and rapid that they made but little way at one mile he
passed a bold runing stream on Stard. which heads in a mountain to the
North, on which there is snow. this we called track Creek. it is 4 yard
wide and 3 feet deep at 7 Ms. passed a stout stream which heads in some
springs under the foot of the mountains on Lard. the river near the
mountain they found one continued rapid, with was extreemly laborious and
difficult to ascend. this evening Charbono struck his indian Woman for
which Capt. C. gave him a severe repremand. Joseph and Reubin Fields
killed 4 deer and an Antelope, Capt. C. killed a buck. several of the men
have lamed themselves by various accedents in working the canoes through
this difficult part of the river, and Capt. C. was obliged personally to
assist them in this labour. they encamped this evening on Lard. side near
the rattlesnake clift
[Clark, August 14, 1805]
August 14th Wednesday 1805. a Cold morning wind from the S. W. The
Thermometer Stood at 51° a 0, at Sunrise the morning being cold and men
Stiff. I deturmind to delay & take brackfast at the place we Encamped.
we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on river verry Crooked and rapid as
below Some fiew trees on the borders near the mountain, passed a bold
running Stream at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain to
the North on which there is Snow passed a bold running Stream on the Lard.
Side which heads in a Spring undr. a mountain, the river near the mountain
is one continued rapid, which requres great labour to push & haul the
Canoes up. We Encamped on the Lard Side near the place the river passes
thro the mountain. I checked our interpreter for Strikeing his woman at
their Dinner.
The hunters Jo. & R. Fields killed 4 Deer & a antilope, I killed a
fat Buck in the evening, Several men have hurt themselves pushing up the
Canoes. I am oblige to a pole occasionally.
[Lewis, August 15, 1805]
Thursday August 15th 1805. This morning I arrose very early and as hungary
as a wolf. I had eat nothing yesterday except one scant meal of the flour
and berries except the dryed cakes of berries which did not appear to
satisfy my appetite as they appeared to do those of my Indian friends. I
found on enquiry of McNeal that we had only about two pounds of flour
remaining. this I directed him to divide into two equal parts and to cook
the one half this morning in a kind of pudding with the hurries as he had
done yesterday and reserve the ballance for the evening. on this new
fashoned pudding four of us breakfasted, giving a pretty good allowance
also to the Chief who declared it the best thing he had taisted for a long
time. he took a little of the Hour in his hand, taisted and examined very
scrutinously and asked me if we made it of roots. I explained to him the
manner in which it grew. I hurried the departure of the Indians. the Chief
addressed them several times before they would move they seemed very
reluctant to accompany me. I at length asked the reason and he told me
that some foolish persons among them had suggested the idea that we were
in league with the Pahkees and had come on in order to decoy them into an
ambuscade where their enimies were waiting to receive them. but that for
his part he did not believe it. I readily perceived that our situation was
not entirely free from danger as the transision from suspicion to the
confermation of the fact would not be very difficult in the minds of these
ignorant people who have been accustomed from their infancy to view every
stranger as an enimy. I told Cameahwait that I was sorry to find that they
had put so little confidence in us, that I knew they were not acquainted
with whitemen and therefore could forgive them. that among whitemen it was
considered disgracefull to lye or entrap an enimy by falsehood. I told him
if they continued to think thus meanly of us that they might rely on it
that no whitemen would ever come to trade with them or bring them arms and
amunition and that if the bulk of his nation still entertained this
opinion I still hoped that there were some among them that were not
affraid to die, that were men and would go with me and convince themselves
of the truth of what I had asscerted. that there was a party of whitemen
waiting my return either at the forks of Jefferson's river or a little
below coining on to that place in canoes loaded with provisions and
merchandize. he told me for his own part he was determined to go, that he
was not affraid to die. I soon found that I had touched him on the right
string; to doubt the bravery of a savage is at once to put him on his
metal. he now mounted his horse and haranged his village a third time; the
perport of which as he afterwards told me was to inform them that he would
go with us and convince himself of the truth or falsity of what we had
told him if he was sertain he should be killed, that he hoped there were
some of them who heard him were not affraid to die with him and if there
was to let him see them mount their horses and prepare to set out. shortly
after this harange he was joined by six or eight only and with these I
smoked a pipe and directed the men to put on their packs being determined
to set out with them while I had them in the humour at half after 12 we
set out, several of the old women were crying and imploring the great
sperit to protect their warriors as if they were going to inevitable
distruction. we had not proceeded far before our party was augmented by
ten or twelve more, and before we reached the Creek which we had passed in
the morning of the 13th it appeared to me that we had all the men of the
village and a number of women with us. this may serve in some measure to
ilustrate the capricious disposition of those people who never act but
from the impulse of the moment. they were now very cheerfull and gay, and
two hours ago they looked as sirly as so many imps of satturn. when we
arrived at the spring on the side of the mountain where we had encamped on
the 12th the Chief insited on halting to let the horses graize with which
I complyed and gave the Indians smoke. they are excessively fond of the
pipe; but have it not much in their power to indulge themselves with even
their native tobacco as they do not cultivate it themselves. — after
remaining about an hour we again set out, and by engaging to make
compensation to four of them for their trouble obtained the previlege of
riding with an indian myself and a similar situation for each of my party.
I soon found it more tiresome riding without tirrups than walking and of
course chose the latter making the Indian carry my pack. about sunset we
reached the upper part of the level valley of the Cove which now called
Shoshone Cove. the grass being birned on the North side of the river we
passed over to the south and encamped near some willow brush about 4 miles
above the narrow pass between the hills noticed as I came up this cove the
river was here about six yards wide, and frequently darned up by the
beaver. I had sent Drewyer forward this evening before we halted to kill
some meat but he was unsuccessfull and did not rejoin us untill after dark
I now cooked and among six of us eat the remaining pound of flour stired
in a little boiling water. — Capt. Clark delayed again this morning
untill after breakfast, when he set out and passed between low and rugged
mountains which had a few pine trees distributed over them the clifts are
formed of limestone and a hard black rock intermixed. no trees on the
river, the bottoms narrow river crooked shallow shoally and rapid. the
water is as coald as that of the best springs in our country. the men as
usual suffered excessively with fatiegue and the coldness of the water to
which they were exposed for hours together. at the distance of 6 miles by
water they passed the entrance of a bold creek on Stard. side 10 yds. wide
and 3 f. 3 i. deep which we called Willard's Creek after Alexander Willard
one of our party. at 4 miles by water from their encampment of las evening
passed a bold branch which tumbled down a steep precipice of rocks from
the mountains on the Lard. Capt Clark was very near being bitten twice
today by rattlesnakes, the Indian woman also narrowly escaped. they caught
a number of fine trout. Capt. Clark killed a buck which was the only game
killed today. the venison has an uncommon bitter taist which is
unpleasent. I presume it proceeds from some article of their food, perhaps
the willow on the leaves of which they feed very much. they encamped this
evening on the Lard. side near a few cottonwood trees about which there
were the remains of several old Indian brush lodges.
[Clark, August 15, 1805]
August 15th Thursday 1805 a Cool windey morning wind from the S W we
proceeded on thro a ruged low mountain water rapid as usial passed a bold
running Stream which falls from the mountain on the Lard. Side at 4 miles,
also a bold running Stream 10 yards wide on the Stard Side 8 feet 3 In.
Deep at 6 miles, Willards Creek the bottoms narrow, the Clifs of a Dark
brown Stone Some limestone intermixed — an Indian road passes on the
Lard Side latterly used. Took a Meridian altitude at the Comsnt. of the
Mountain with Octent 65° 47' 0". The Latd. 44° 0' 48 1/10" proceeded on
with great labour & fatigue to the Mouth of a Small run on the Lard.
Side
passed Several Spring runs, the men Complain much of their fatigue and
being repetiedly in the water which weakens them much perticularly as they
are obliged to live on pore Deer meet which has a Singular bitter taste. I
have no accounts of Capt Lewis Sence he Set out
In walking on Shore I Saw Several rattle Snakes and narrowly escaped at
two different times, as also the Squar when walking with her husband on
Shore — I killed a Buck nothing else killed to day — This mountn.
I call rattle Snake mountain. not one tree on either Side to day
[Lewis, August 16, 1805]
Friday August 16th 1805. I sent Drewyer and Shields before this morning in
order to kill some meat as neither the Indians nor ourselves had any thing
to eat. I informed the Ceif of my view in this measure, and requested that
he would keep his young men with us lest by their hooping and noise they
should allarm the game and we should get nothing to eat, but so strongly
were there suspicions exited by this measure that two parties of discovery
immediately set out one on ech side of the valley to watch the hunters as
I beleive to see whether they had not been sent to give information of
their approach to an enemy that they still preswaided themselves were
lying in wait for them. I saw that any further effort to prevent their
going would only add strength to their suspicions and therefore said no
more. after the hunters had been gone about an hour we set out. we had
just passed through the narrows when we saw one of the spies comeing up
the level plain under whip, the chief pawsed a little and seemed somewhat
concerned. I felt a good deel so myself and began to suspect that by some
unfortunate accedent that perhaps some of there enimies had straggled
hither at this unlucky moment; but we were all agreeably disappointed on
the arrival of the young man to learn that he had come to inform us that
one of the whitemen had killed a deer. in an instant they all gave their
horses the whip and I was taken nearly a mile before I could learn what
were the tidings; as I was without tirrups and an Indian behind me the
jostling was disagreeable I therefore reigned up my horse and forbid the
indian to whip him who had given him the lash at every jum for a mile
fearing he should loose a part of the feast. the fellow was so uneasy that
he left me the horse dismounted and ran on foot at full speed, I am
confident a mile. when they arrived where the deer was which was in view
of me they dismounted and ran in tumbling over each other like a parcel of
famished dogs each seizing and tearing away a part of the intestens which
had been previously thrown out by Drewyer who killed it; the seen was such
when I arrived that had I not have had a pretty keen appetite myself I am
confident I should not have taisted any part of the venison shortly. each
one had a peice of some discription and all eating most ravenously. some
were eating the kidnies the melt and liver and the blood runing from the
corners of their mouths, others were in a similar situation with the
paunch and guts but the exuding substance in this case from their lips was
of a different discription. one of the last who attacted my attention
particularly had been fortunate in his allotment or reather active in the
division, he had provided himself with about nine feet of the small guts
one end of which he was chewing on while with his hands he was squezzing
the contents out at the other. I really did not untill now think that
human nature ever presented itself in a shape so nearly allyed to the
brute creation. I viewed these poor starved divils with pity and
compassion I directed McNeal to skin the deer and reserved a quarter, the
ballance I gave the Chief to be divided among his people; they devoured
the whole of it nearly without cooking. I now boar obliquely to the left
in order to interscept the creek where there was some brush to make a
fire, and arrived at this stream where Drewyer had killed a second deer;
here nearly the same seene was encored. a fire being kindled we cooked and
eat and gave the ballance of the two deer to the Indians who eat the whole
of them even to the soft parts of the hoofs. Drewyer joined us at
breakfast with a third deer. of this I reserved a quarter and gave the
ballance to the Indians. they all appeared now to have filled themselves
and were in a good humour. this morning early soon after the hunters set
out a considerable part of our escort became allarmed and returned 28 men
and three women only continued with us. after eating and suffering the
horses to graize about 2 hours we renued our march and towads evening
arrived at the lower part of the cove Shields killed an Antelope on the
way a part of which we took and gave the remainder to the Indians. being
now informed of the place at which I expected to meat Capt C. and the
party they insisted on making a halt, which was complyed with. we now
dismounted and the Chief with much cerimony put tippets about our necks
such as they temselves woar I redily perceived that this was to disguise
us and owed it's origine to the same cause already mentioned. to give them
further confidence I put my cocked hat with feather on the chief and my
over shirt being of the Indian form my hair deshivled and skin well
browned with the sun I wanted no further addition to make me a complete
Indian in appearance the men followed my example and we were son
completely metamorphosed. I again repeated to them the possibility of the
party not having arrived at the place which I expected they were, but
assured them they could not be far below, lest by not finding them at the
forks their suspicions might arrise to such hight as to induce them to
return precipitately. we now set out and rode briskly within sight of the
forks making one of the Indians carry the flag that our own party should
know who we were. when we arrived in sight at the distance of about 2
miles I discovered to my mortification that the party had not arrived, and
the Indians slackened their pace. I now scarcely new what to do and feared
every moment when they would halt altogether, I now determined to restore
their confidence cost what it might and therefore gave the Chief my gun
and told him that if his enimies were in those bushes before him that he
could defend himself with that gun, that for my own part I was not affraid
to die and if I deceived him he might make what uce of the gun he thought
proper or in other words that he might shoot me. the men also gave their
guns to other indians which seemed to inspire them with more confidence;
they sent their spies before them at some distance and when I drew near
the place I thought of the notes which I had left and directed Drewyer to
go with an Indian man and bring them to me which he did. the indian seeing
him take the notes from the stake on which they had been plased I now had
recource to a stratagem in which I thought myself justifyed by the
occasion, but which I must confess set a little awkward. it had it's
desired effect. after reading the notes which were the same I had left I
told the Chief that when I had left my brother Chief with the party below
where the river entered the mountain that we both agreed not to bring the
canoes higher up than the next forks of the river above us wherever this
might happen, that there he was to wait my return, should he arrive first,
and that in the event of his not being able to travel as fast as usual
from the difficulty of the water, that he was to send up to the first
forks above him and leave a note informing me where he was, that this note
was left here today and that he informed me that he was just below the
mountains and was coming on slowly up, and added that I should wait here
for him, but if they did not beleive me that I should send a man at any
rate to the Chief and they might also send one of their young men with
him, that myself and two others would remain with them at this place. this
plan was readily adopted and one of the young men offered his services; I
promised him a knife and some beads as a reward for his confidence in us.
most of them seemed satisfyed but there were several that complained of
the Chief's exposing them to danger unnecessarily and said that we told
different stories, in short a few were much dissatisfyed. I wrote a note
to Capt. Clark by the light of some willow brush and directed Drewyer to
set out early being confident that there was not a moment to spare. the
chief and five or six others slept about my fire and the others hid
themselves in various parts of the willow brush to avoid the enimy whom
they were fearfull would attack them in the course of the night. I now
entertained various conjectures myself with rispect to the cause of Capt.
Clarks detention and was even fearful l that he had found the river so
difficult that he had halted below the Rattlesnake bluffs. I knew that if
these people left me that they would immediately disperse and secrete
themselves in the mountains where it would be impossible to find them or
at least in vain to pursue them and that they would spread the allarm to
all other bands within our reach & of course we should be disappointed
in obtaining horses, which would vastly retard and increase the labour of
our voyage and I feared might so discourage the men as to defeat the
expedition altogether. my mind was in reallity quite as gloomy all this
evening as the most affrighted indian but I affected cheerfullness to keep
the Indians so who were about me. we finally laid down and the Chief
placed himself by the side of my musquetoe bier. I slept but little as
might be well expected, my mind dwelling on the state of the expedition
which I have ever held in equal estimation with my own existence, and the
fait of which appeared at this moment to depend in a great measure upon
the caprice of a few savages who are ever as fickle as the wind. I had
mentioned to the chief several times that we had with us a woman of his
nation who had been taken prisoner by the Minnetares, and that by means of
her I hoped to explain myself more fully than I could do by signs. some of
the party had also told the Indians that we had a man with us who was
black and had short curling hair, this had excited their curiossity very
much. and they seemed quite as anxious to see this monster as they wer the
merchandize which we had to barter for their horses.
at 7 A M. Capt. C. set out after breakfast. he changed the hands in some
of the canoes; they proceeded with more ease than yesterday, yet they
found the river still rapid and shallow insomuch that they were obliged to
drag the large canoes the greater part of the day. the water excessively
cold. in the evening they passed several bad rapids. considerable
quantities of the buffaloe clover grows along the narrow bottoms through
which they passed. there was no timber except a few scatiring small pine
on the hills. willow service berry and currant bushes were the growth of
the river bottoms. they geatherd considerable quantities of service
berries, and caught some trout. one deer was killed by the hunters who
slept out last night. and did not join the party untill 10 A.M.
Capt. Clark sent the hunters this evening up to the forks of the river
which he discovered from an eminence; they mus have left this place but a
little time before we arrived. this evening they encamped on the Lard.
side only a few miles below us. and were obliged like ourselves to make
use of small willow brush for fuel. the men were much fatigued and
exhausted this evening.
[Clark, August 16, 1805]
August 16th Friday 1805 as this morning was cold and the men fatigued
Stiff and Chilled deturmined me to detain & take brackfast before I
Set out. I changed the hands and Set out at 7 oClock proceeded on
Something better than yesterday for the fore part of the Day passed
Several rapids in the latter part of the day near the hills river passed
between 2 hills I saw a great number of Service berries now ripe. the
Yellow Current are also Common I observe the long leaf Clover in great
plenty in the vallie below this vallie — Some fiew tres on the river
no timber on the hills or mountn. except a fiew Small Pine & Cedar.
The Thmtr. Stood at 48° a. 0 at Sunrise wind S W. The hunters joined me at
1 oClock, I dispatched 2 men to prosue an Indian roade over the hills for
a fiew miles, at the narrows I assended a mountain from the top of which I
could See that the river forked near me the left hand appeared the largest
& bore S. E. the right passed from the West thro an extensive Vallie,
I could See but three Small trees in any Direction from the top of this
mountain. passed an Isld. and Encamped ion the Lard. Side the only wood
was Small willows
[Lewis, August 17, 1805]
Saturday August 17th 1805. This morning I arrose very early and dispatched
Drewyer and the Indian down the river. sent Shields to hunt. I made McNeal
cook the remainder of our meat which afforded a slight breakfast for
ourselves and the Cheif. Drewyer had been gone about 2 hours when an
Indian who had straggled some little distance down the river returned and
reported that the whitemen were coming, that he had seen them just below.
they all appeared transported with joy, & the chef repeated his
fraturnal hug. I felt quite as much gratifyed at this information as the
Indians appeared to be. Shortly after Capt. Clark arrived with the
Interpreter Charbono, and the Indian woman, who proved to be a sister of
the Chif Cameahwait. the meeting of those people was really affecting,
particularly between Sah cah-gar-we-ah and an Indian woman, who had been
taken prisoner at the same time with her, and who had afterwards escaped
from the Minnetares and rejoined her nation. At noon the Canoes arrived,
and we had the satisfaction once more to find ourselves all together, with
a flattering prospect of being able to obtain as many horses shortly as
would enable us to prosicute our voyage by land should that by water be
deemed unadvisable.
We now formed our camp just below the junction of the forks on the Lard.
side in a level smooth bottom covered with a fine terf of greenswoard.
here we unloaded our canoes and arranged our baggage on shore; formed a
canopy of one of our large sails and planted some willow brush in the
ground to form a shade for the Indians to set under while we spoke to
them, which we thought it best to do this evening. acordingly about 4 P.M.
we called them together and through the medium of Labuish, Charbono and
Sah-cah-gar-weah, we communicated to them fully the objects which had
brought us into this distant part of the country, in which we took care to
make them a conspicuous object of our own good wishes and the care of our
government. we made them sensible of their dependance on the will of our
government for every species of merchandize as well for their defence
& comfort; and apprized them of the strength of our government and
it's friendly dispositions towards them. we also gave them as a reason why
we wished to petrate the country as far as the ocean to the west of them
was to examine and find out a more direct way to bring merchandize to
them. that as no trade could be carryed on with them before our return to
our homes that it was mutually advantageous to them as well as to
ourselves that they should render us such aids as they had it in their
power to furnish in order to haisten our voyage and of course our return
home. that such were their horses to transport our baggage without which
we could not subsist, and that a pilot to conduct us through the mountains
was also necessary if we could not decend the river by water. but that we
did not ask either their horses or their services without giving a
satisfactory compensation in return. that at present we wished them to
collect as many horses as were necessary to transport our baggage to their
village on the Columbia where we would then trade with them at our leasure
for such horses as they could spare us. — They appeared well pleased
with what had been said. the chief thanked us for friendship towards
himself and nation & declared his wish to serve us in every rispect;
that he was sorry to find that it must yet be some time before they could
be furnished with firearms but said they could live as they had done
heretofore untill we brought them as we had promised. he said they had not
horses enough with them at present to remove our baggage to their village
over the mountain, but that he would return tomorrow and encourage his
people to come over with their horses and that he would bring his own and
assist us. this was complying with all we wished at present. we next
enquired who were chiefs among them. Cameahwait pointed out two others
whom he said were Chiefs we gave him a medal of the small size with the
likeness of Mr. Jefferson the President of the U States in releif on one
side and clasp hands with a pipe and tomahawk on the other, to the other
Chiefs we gave each a small medal which were struck in the Presidency of
George Washing Esqr. we also gave small medals of the last discription to
two young men whom the 1st Chief informed us wer good young men and much
rispected among them. we gave the 1st Chief an uniform coat shirt a pair
of scarlet legings a carrot of tobacco and some small articles to each of
the others we gave a shirt leging handkerchief a knife some tobacco and a
few small articles we also distributed a good quantity paint mockerson
awls knives beads lookingglasses &c among the other Indians and gave
them a plentifull meal of lyed corn which was the first they had ever
eaten in their lives. they were much pleased with it. every article about
us appeared to excite astonishment in ther minds; the appearance of the
men, their arms, the canoes, our manner of working them, the back man york
and the segacity of my dog were equally objects of admiration. I also shot
my air-gun which was so perfectly incomprehensible that they immediately
denominated it the great medicine. the idea which the indians mean to
convey by this appellation is something that eminates from or acts
immediately by the influence or power of the great sperit; or that in
which the power of god is manifest by it's incomprehensible power of
action. our hunters killed 4 deer and an Antelope this evening of which we
also gave the Indians a good proportion. the cerimony of our council and
smoking the pipe was in conformity of the custom of this nation perfomed
bearfoot. on those occasions points of etiquet are quite as much attended
to by the Indians as among scivilized nations. To keep indians in a good
humour you must not fatiegue them with too much business at one time.
therefore after the council we gave them to eat and amused them a while by
shewing them such articles as we thought would be entertaining to them,
and then renewed our enquiries with rispect to the country. the
information we derived was only a repetition of that they had given me
before and in which they appeared to be so candid that I could not avoid
yealing confidence to what they had said. Capt. Clark and myself now
concerted measures for our future operations, and it was mutually agreed
that he should set out tomorrow morning with eleven men furnished with
axes and other necessary tools for making canoes, their arms accoutrements
and as much of their baggage as they could carry. also to take the indians
Carbono and the indian woman with him; that on his arrival at the Shoshone
camp he was to leave Charbono and the Indian woman to haisten the return
of the Indians with their horses to this place, and to proceede himself
with the eleven men down the Columbia in order to examine the river and if
he found it navigable and could obtain timber to set about making canoes
immediately. In the mean time I was to bring on the party and baggage to
the Shoshone Camp, calculating that by the time I should reach that place
that he would have sufficiently informed himself with rispect to the state
of the river &c. as to determine us whether to prosicute our journey
from thence by land or water. in the former case we should want all the
horses which we could perchase, the latter only to hire the Indians to
transport our baggage to the place at which we made the canoes. in order
to inform me as early as possible of the state of the river he was to send
back one of the men with the necessary information as soon as he should
satisfy himself on this subject. this plan being settled we gave orders
accordingly and the men prepared for an early march. the nights are very
cold and the sun excessively hot in the day. we have no fuel here but a
few dry willow brush. and from the appearance of country I am confident we
shall not find game here to subsist us many days. these are additional
reasons why I conceive it necessary to get under way as soon as possible. — this
morning Capt. Clark had delayed untill 7 A.M. before he set out just about
which time Drewyer arrived with the Indian; he left the canoes to come on
after him, and immediately set out and joined me as has been before
mentioned.The sperits of the men were now much elated at the prospect of
geting horses.
[Clark, August 17, 1805]
August 17th Satturday 1805 a fair Cold morning wind S. W. the Thermometer
at 42 a. 0 at Sunrise, We Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on to the
forks I had not proceeded on one mile before I saw at a distance Several
Indians on horsback Comeing towards me, The Intertrepeter & Squar who
were before me at Some distance danced for the joyful Sight, and She made
signs to me that they were her nation, as I aproached nearer them
descovered one of Capt Lewis party With them dressed in their Dress; the
met me with great Signs of joy, as the Canoes were proceeding on nearly
opposit me I turned those people & joined Capt Lewis who had Camped
with 16 of those Snake Indians at the forks 2 miles in advance. those
Indians Sung all the way to their Camp where the others had provd. a cind
of Shade of Willows Stuck up in a Circle the Three Chiefs with Capt. Lewis
met me with great cordialliaty embraced and took a Seat on a white robe,
the Main Chief imedeately tied to my hair Six Small pieces of Shells
resembling perl which is highly Valued by those people and is prcured from
the nations resideing near the Sea Coast. we then Smoked in their fassion
without Shoes and without much cerimoney and form.
Capt Lewis informed me he found those people on the Columbia River about
40 miles from the forks at that place there was a large camp of them, he
had purswaded those with him to Come and See that what he said was the
truth, they had been under great apprehension all the way, for fear of
their being deceived. The Great Chief of this nation proved to be the
brother of the Woman with us and is a man of Influence Sence & easey
& reserved manners, appears to possess a great deel of Cincerity. The
Canoes arrived & unloaded — every thing appeared to asstonish
those people. the appearance of the men, their arms, the Canoes, the
Clothing my black Servent. & the Segassity of Capt Lewis's Dog. we
Spoke a fiew words to them in the evening respecting our rout intentions
our want of horses &c. & gave them a fiew presents & medals — we
made a number of inquires of those people about the Columbia River the
Countrey game &c. The account they gave us was verry unfavourable,
that the River abounded in emence falls, one perticularly much higher than
the falls of the Missouri & at the place the mountains Closed So Close
that it was impracticable to pass, & that the ridge Continued on each
Side of perpendicular Clifts inpenetratable, and that no Deer Elk or any
game was to be found in that Countrey, aded to that they informed us that
there was no timber on the river Sufficiently large to make Small Canoes,
This information (if true is alarming) I deturmined to go in advance and
examine the Countrey, See if those dificueltes presented themselves in the
gloomey picture in which they painted them, and if the river was
practiable and I could find timber to build Canoes, those Ideas & plan
appeard to be agreeable to Capt Lewis's Ideas on this point, and I
selected 11 men, directed them to pack up their baggage Complete
themselves with amunition, take each an ax and Such tools as will be
Soutable to build Canoes, and be ready to Set out at 10 oClock tomorrow
morning. Those people greatly pleased our hunters killed three Deer &
an antilope which was eaten in a Short time the Indians being so harrassed
& compelled to move about in those rugid mountains that they are half
Starved liveing at this time on berries & roots which they geather in
the plains. Those people are not begerley but generous, only one has asked
me for anything and he for powder.
This nation Call themselves Cho-shop-ne the Chief is name Too-et-te-con'l
Black Gun is his war name Ka-me-ah-wah — or Come & Smoke. this
Chief gave me the following name and pipe Ka-me-ah-wah.
[Lewis, August 18, 1805]
Sunday August 18th 1805. This morning while Capt Clark was busily engaged
in preparing for his rout, I exposed some articles to barter with the
Indians for horses as I wished a few at this moment to releive the men who
were going with Capt Clark from the labour of carrying their baggage and
also one to keep here in order to pack the meat to camp which the hunters
might kill. I soon obtained three very good horses for which I gave an
uniform coat, a pair of legings, a few handkerchiefs, three knives and
some other small articles the whole of which did not cost more than about
20$ in the U States. the Indians seemed quite as well pleased with their
bargin as I was. the men also purchased one for an old checked shirt a
pair of old legings and a knife. two of those I purchased Capt. C. took on
with him. at 10 A.M. Capt. Clark departed with his detatchment and all the
Indians except 2 men and 2 women who remained with us. Two of the inferior
chiefs were a little displeased at not having received a present
equivolent to that given the first Chief. to releive this difficulty Capt.
Clark bestoed a couple of his old coats on them and I promised that if
they wer active in assisting me over the mountains with horses that I
would give them an additional present; this seemed perfectly to satisfy
them and they all set out in a good humour. Capt. Clark encamped this
evening near the narrow pass between the hills on Jefferson's river in the
Shoshone Cove. his hunters killed one deer which the party with the aid of
the Indians readily consumed in the course of the evening. — after
there departure this morning I had all the stores and baggage of every
discription opened and aired. and began the operation of forming the
packages in proper parsels for the purpose of transporting them on
horseback. the rain in the evening compelled me to desist from my
operations. I had the raw hides put in the water in order to cut them in
throngs proper for lashing the packages and forming the necessary geer for
pack horses, a business which I fortunately had not to learn on this
occasion. Drewyer Killed one deer this evening. a beaver was also caught
by one of the party. I had the net arranged and set this evening to catch
some trout which we could see in great abundance at the bottom of the
river. This day I completed my thirty first year, and conceived that I had
in all human probability now existed about half the period which I am to
remain in this Sublunary world. I reflected that I had as yet done but
little, very little indeed, to further the hapiness of the human race, or
to advance the information of the succeeding generation. I viewed with
regret the many hours I have spent in indolence, and now soarly feel the
want of that information which those hours would have given me had they
been judiciously expended. but since they are past and cannot be recalled,
I dash from me the gloomy thought and resolved in future, to redouble my
exertions and at least indeavour to promote those two primary objects of
human existence, by giving them the aid of that portion of talents which
nature and fortune have bestoed on me; or in future, to live for mankind,
as I have heretofore lived for myself.
[Clark, August 18, 1805]
August 18th Sunday 1805 Purchased of the Indians three horses for which we
gave a Chiefs Coat Some Handkerchiefs a Shirt Legins & a fiew arrow
points &c. I gave two of my coats to two of the under Chiefs who
appeared not well Satisfied that the first Chief was dressed so much finer
than themselves. at 10 oClock I Set out accompanied by the Indians except
3 the interpreter and wife, the fore part of the day worm, at 12 oClock it
became hasey with a mist of rain wind hard from the S. W. and Cold which
increased untill night the rain Seased in about two hours. We proceeded on
thro a wide leavel vallie without wood except willows & Srubs for 15
miles and Encamped at a place the high lands approach within 200 yards in
2 points the River here only 10 yards wide Several Small Streams branching
out on each Side below. all the Indians proceeded on except the 3 Chiefs
& two young men. my hunters killed two Deer which we eate. The Course
from the forks is West 9 miles N. 60° W. 6 miles. The Laid. of the forks
agreeable to observations is 43° 30' 43" North-
[Lewis, August 19, 1805]
Monday August 19th 1805. This morning I arrose at dylight. and sent out
three hunters. some of the men who were much in want of legings and
mockersons I suffered to dress some skins. the others I employed in
repacking the baggage, making pack saddles &c. we took up the net this
morning but caugt no fish. one beaver was caught in a trap. the frost
which perfectly whitened the grass this morning had a singular appearance
to me at this season. this evening I made a few of the men construct a
sein of willow brush which we hawled and caught a large number of fine
trout and a kind of mullet about 16 Inhes long which I had not seen
before. the scales are small, the nose is long and obtusely pointed and
exceedes the under jaw. the mouth is not large but opens with foalds at
the sides, the colour of it's back and sides is of a bluish brown and
belley white; it has the faggot bones, from which I have supposed it to be
of the mullet kind. the tongue and pallate are smooth and it has no teeth.
it is by no means as good as the trout. the trout are the same which I
first met with at the falls of the Missouri, they are larger than the
speckled trout of our mountains and equally as well flavored. The hunters
returned this evening with two deer. from what has been said of the
Shoshones it will be readily perceived that they live in a wretched stait
of poverty. yet notwithstanding their extreem poverty they are not only
cheerfull but even gay, fond of gaudy dress and amusements; like most
other Indians they are great egotists and frequently boast of heroic acts
which they never performed. they are also fond of games of wrisk. they are
frank, communicative, fair in dealing, generous with the little they
possess, extreemly honest, and by no means beggarly. each individual is
his own sovereign master, and acts from the dictates of his own mind; the
authority of the Cheif being nothing more than mere admonition supported
by the influence which the propiety of his own examplery conduct may have
acquired him in the minds of the individuals who compose the band. the
title of cheif is not hereditary, nor can I learn that there is any
cerimony of instalment, or other epoh in the life of a Cheif from which
his title as such can be dated. in fact every man is a chief, but all have
not an equal influence on the minds of the other members of the community,
and he who happens to enjoy the greatest share of confidence is the
principal Chief. The Shoshonees may be estimated at about 100 warriors,
and about three times that number of woomen and children. they have more
children among them than I expected to have seen among a people who
procure subsistence with such difficulty. there are but few very old
persons, nor did they appear to treat those with much tenderness or
rispect. The man is the sole propryetor of his wives and daughters, and
can barter or dispose of either as he thinks proper. a plurality of wives
is common among them, but these are not generally sisters as with the
Minnetares & Mandans but are purchased of different fathers. The
father frequently disposes of his infant daughters in marriage to men who
are grown or to men who have sons for whom they think proper to provide
wives. the compensation given in such cases usually consists of horses or
mules which the father receives at the time of contract and converts to
his own uce. the girl remains with her parents untill she is conceived to
have obtained the age of puberty which with them is considered to be about
the age of 13 or 14 years. the female at this age is surrendered to her
sovereign lord and husband agreeably to contract, and with her is
frequently restored by the father quite as much as he received in the
first instance in payment for his daughter; but this is discretionary with
the father. Sah-car-gar-we-ah had been thus disposed of before she was
taken by the Minnetares, or had arrived to the years of puberty. the
husband was yet living and with this band. he was more than double her age
and had two other wives. he claimed her as his wife but said that as she
had had a child by another man, who was Charbono, that he did not want
her. They seldom correct their children particularly the boys who soon
become masters of their own acts. they give as a reason that it cows and
breaks the Sperit of the boy to whip him, and that he never recovers his
independence of mind after he is grown. They treat their women but with
little rispect, and compel them to perform every species of drudgery. they
collect the wild fruits and roots, attend to the horses or assist in that
duty cook dreess the skins and make all their apparal, collect wood and
make their fires, arrange and form their lodges, and when they travel pack
the horses and take charge of all the baggage; in short the man dose
little else except attend his horses hunt and fish. the man considers
himself degraded if he is compelled to walk any distance, and if he is so
unfortunately poor as only to possess two horses he rides the best himself
and leavs the woman or women if he has more than one, to transport their
baggage and children on the other, and to walk if the horse is unable to
carry the additional weight of their persons — the chastity of their
women is not held in high estimation, and the husband will for a trifle
barter the companion of his bead for a night or longer if he conceives the
reward adiquate; tho they are not so importunate that we should caress
their women as the siouxs were and some of their women appear to be held
more sacred than in any nation we have seen I have requested the men to
give them no cause of jealousy by having connection with their women
without their knowledge, which with them strange as it may seem is
considered as disgracefull to the husband as clandestine connections of a
similar kind are among civilized nations. to prevent this mutual exchange
of good officies altogether I know it impossible to effect, particularly
on the part of our young men whom some months abstinence have made very
polite to those tawney damsels. no evil has yet resulted and I hope will
not from these connections. — notwithstanding the late loss of horses
which this people sustained by the Minnetares the stock of the band may be
very safely estimated at seven hundred of which they are perhaps about 40
coalts and half that number of mules.these people are deminutive in
stature, thick ankles, crooked legs, thick flat feet and in short but illy
formed, at least much more so in general than any nation of Indians I ever
saw. their complexion is much that of the Siouxs or darker than the
Minnetares mandands or Shawnees. generally both men and women wear their
hair in a loos lank flow over the sholders and face; tho I observed some
few men who confined their hair in two equal cues hanging over each ear
and drawnn in front of the body. the cue is formed with throngs of dressed
lather or Otterskin aternately crossing each other. at present most of
them have cut short in the neck in consequence of the loss of their
relations by the Minnetares. Cameahwait has his cut close all over his
head. this constitutes their cerimony of morning for their deceased
relations. the dress of the men consists of a robe long legings, shirt,
tippet and Mockersons, that of the women is also a robe, chemise, and
Mockersons; sometimes they make use of short legings. the ornements of
both men and women are very similar, and consist of several species of sea
shells, blue and white beads, bras and Iron arm bands, plaited cords of
the sweet grass, and collars of leather ornamented with the quills of the
porcupine dyed of various colours among which I observed the red, yellow,
blue, and black. the ear is purforated in the lower part to receive
various ornaments but the nose is not, nor is the ear lasserated or
disvigored for this purpose as among many nations. the men never mark
their skins by birning, cuting, nor puncturing and introducing a colouring
matter as many nations do. there women sometimes puncture a small circle
on their forehead nose or cheeks and thus introduce a black matter usually
soot and grease which leaves an indelible stane. tho this even is by no
means common. their arms offensive and defensive consist in the bow and
arrows sheild, some lances, and a weapon called by the Cippeways who
formerly used it, the pog-gal'-mag-gon'. in fishing they employ wairs,
gigs, and fishing hooks. the salmon is the principal object of their
pursuit. they snair wolves and foxes. I was anxious to learn whether these
people had the venerial, and made the enquiry through the intrepreter and
his wife; the information was that they sometimes had it but I could not
learn their remedy; they most usually die with it's effects. this seems a
strong proof that these disorders bothe gonaroehah and Louis venerae are
native disorders of America. tho these people have suffered much by the
small pox which is known to be imported and perhaps those other disorders
might have been contracted from other indian tribes who by a round of
communication might have obtained from the Europeans since it was
introduced into that quarter of the globe. but so much detatched on the
other had from all communication with the whites that I think it most
probable that those disorders are original with them. from the middle of
May to the firt of September these people reside on the waters of the
Columbia where they consider themselves in perfect security from their
enimies as they have not as yet ever found their way to this retreat;
during this season the salmon furnish the principal part of their
subsistence and as this firsh either perishes or returns about the 1st of
September they are compelled at this season in surch of subsistence to
resort to the Missouri, in the vallies of which, there is more game even
within the mountains. here they move slowly down the river in order to
collect and join other bands either of their own nation or the Flatheads,
and having become sufficiently strong as they conceive venture on the
Eastern side of the Rockey mountains into the plains, where the buffaloe
abound. but they never leave the interior of the mountains while they can
obtain a scanty subsistence, and always return as soon as they have
acquired a good stock of dryed meat in the plains; when this stock is
consumed they venture again into the plains; thus alternately obtaining
their food at the risk of their lives and retiring to the mountains, while
they consume it. — These people are now on the eve of their departure
for the Missouri, and inform us that they expect to be joined at or about
the three forks by several bands of their own nation, and a band of the
Flatheads. as I am now two busily engaged to enter at once into a minute
discription of the several articles which compose their dress, impliments
of war hunting fishing &c I shall pursue them at my leasure in the
order they have here occurred to my mind, and have been mentioned. This
morning capt. Clark continued his rout with his party, the Indians
accompanying him as yesterday; he was obliged to feed them. nothing
remarkable happened during the day. he was met by an Indian with two mules
on this side of the dividing ridge at the foot of the mountain, the Indian
had the politeness to offer Capt. C. one of his mules to ride as he was on
foot, which he accepted and gave the fellow a waistcoat as a reward for
his politeness. in the evening he reached the creek on this side of the
Indian camp and halted for the night. his hunters killed nothing today.
The Indians value their mules very highly. a good mule can not be obtained
for less than three and sometimes four horses, and the most indifferent
are rated at two horses. their mules generally are the finest I ever saw
without any comparison. — today I observed time and distance of sun's
and moon's nearest limbs with sextant sun East.
[Clark, August 19, 1805]
August 19th Monday 1805 A verry Cold morning Frost to be Seen we Set out
at 7 oClock and proceeded on thro a wide leavel Vallie the Chief Shew me
the place that a number of his nation was killed about 1 years past this
Vallie Continues 5 miles & then becoms narrow, the beaver has Darned
up the River in maney places we proceeded on up the main branch with a
gradial assent to the head and passed over a low mountain and Decended a
Steep Decent to a butifull Stream, passed over a Second hill of a verry
Steep assent & thro a hilley Countrey for 8 miles an Encamped on a
Small Stream the Indians with us we wer oblige to feed — one man met
one with a mule & Spanish Saddle to ride, I gave him a wistoat a mule
is considered a of great value among those people we proceeded on over a
verry mountanious Countrey across the head of hollows & Springs
[Lewis, August 20, 1805]
Tuesday August 20th 1805. This morning I sent out the two hunters and
employed the ballance of the party pretty much as yesterday. I walked down
the river about — 3/4 of a mile and scelected a place near the river
bank unperceived by the Indians for a cash, which I set three men to make,
and directed the centinel to discharge his gun if he pereceived any of the
Indians going down in that direction which was to be the signal for the
men at work on the cash to desist and seperate, least these people should
discover our deposit and rob us of the baggage we intend leaving here. by
evening the cash was completed unperceived by the Indians, and all our
packages made up. the Pack-saddles and harries is not yet complete. in
this operation we find ourselves at a loss for nails and boards; for the
first we substitute throngs of raw hide which answer verry well, and for
the last to cut off the blades of our oars and use the plank of some boxes
which have heretofore held other articles and put those articles into
sacks of raw hide which I have had made for the purpose. by this means I
have obtained as many boards as will make 20 saddles which I suppose will
be sufficient for our present exegencies. The Indians with us behave
themselves extreemly well; the women have been busily engaged all day
making and mending the mockersons of our party. In the evening the hunters
returned unsuccessfull. Drewyer went in search of his trap which a beaver
had taken off last night; he found the beaver dead with the trap to his
foot about 2 miles below the place he had set it. this beaver constituted
the whole of the game taken today. the fur of this animal is as good as I
ever saw any, and beleive that they are never out of season on the upper
part of the Missouri and it's branches within the Mountains. Goodrich
caught several douzen fine trout. today. I made up a small assortment of
medicines, together with the specemines of plants, minerals, seeds &c.
which, I have collected betwen this place and the falls of the Missouri
which I shall deposit here. the robe woarn by the Shoshonees is the same
in both sexes and is loosly thrown about their sholders, and the sides at
pleasure either hanging loose or drawn together with the hands, sometimes
if the weather is cold they confine it with a girdel arround the waist;
they are generally about the size of a 21/2 point blanket for grown
persons and reach as low as the middle of the leg. this robe forms a
garment in the day and constitutes their only covering at night. with
these people the robe is formed most commonly of the skins of Antelope,
Bighorn, or deer, dressed with the hair on, tho they prefer the buffaloe
when they can procure them. I have also observed some robes among them of
beaver, moonax, and small wolves. the summer robes of both sexes are also
frequently made of the Elk's skin dressed without the hair. The shirt of
the men is really a commodious and decent garment. it roomy and reaches
nearly half way the thye, there is no collar, the apperture being
sufficiently large to admit the head and is left square at top, or most
frequently, both before and behind terminate in the tails of the animals
of which they are made and which foald outwards being frequently left
entire or somtimes cut into a fring on the edges and ornimented with the
quills of the Porcupine. the sides of the shirt are sewed deeply fringed,
and ornamented in a similar manner from the bottom upwards, within six or
eight inches of the sieve from whence it is left open as well as the sieve
on it's under side to the elbow nearly. from the elbow the sieve fits the
arm tight as low as the wrist and is not ornimented with a fringe as the
sides and under parts of the sieve are above the elbow. the sholder straps
are wide and on them is generally displayed the taste of the manufacterer
in a variety of figures wrought with the quills of the porcupine of
several colours; beads when they have them are also displayed on this
part. the tail of the shirt is left in the form which the fore legs and
neck give it with the addition of a slight fringe. the hair is usually
left on the tail, & near the hoofs of the animal; part of the hoof is
also retained to the skin and is split into a fring by way of orniment.
these shirts are generally made of deer's Antelope's, Bighorn's, or Elk's
skins dressed without the hair. the Elk skin is less used for this purpose
than either of the others. their only thread used on this or any other
occasion is the sinews taken from the back and loins of the deer Elk
buffaloe &c. Their legings are most usually formed of the skins of the
Antelope dressed without the hair. in the men they are very long and full
each leging being formed of a skin nearly entire. the legs, tail and neck
are also left on these, and the tail woarn upwards; and the neck deeply
fringed and ornimented with porcupine qulls drags or trails on the ground
behind the heel. the skin is sewn in such manner as to fit the leg and
thye closely; the upper part being left open a sufficient distance to
permit the legs of the skin to be dran underneath a girdle both before and
behind, and the wide part of the skin to cover the buttock and lap before
in such manner that the breechcloth is unnecessary. they are much more
decent in concealing those parts than any nation on the Missouri the sides
of the legings are also deeply fringed and ornimented. sometimes this part
is ornimented with little fassicles of the hair of an enimy whom they have
slain in battle. The tippet of the Snake Indians is the most eligant peice
of Indian dress I ever saw, the neck or collar of this is formed of a
strip of dressed Otter skin with the fur. it is about four or five inches
wide and is cut out of the back of the skin the nose and eyes forming one
extremity and the tail the other. begining a little behind the ear of the
animal at one edge of this collar and proceeding towards the tail, they
attatch from one to two hundred and fifty little roles of Ermin skin
formed in the following manner. the skin is first dressed with the fur on
it and a narrow strip is cut out of the back of the skin reaching from the
nose and imbracing the tail. this is sewed arround a small cord of the
silk-grass twisted for the purpose and regularly tapering in such manner
as to give it ajust proportion to the tail which is to form the lower
extremity of the stran. thus arranged they are confined at the upper point
in little bundles of two-three, or more as the disign may be to make them
more full; these are then attatched to the collars as before mentioned,
and to conceal the connection of this part which would otherwise have a
course appearance they attatch a broad fringe of the Ermin skin to the
collar overlaying that part. little bundles of fine fringe of the same
materials is fastened to the extremity of the tails in order to shew their
black extremities to greater advantage. the center of the otterskin collar
is also ornamented with the shells of the perl oister. the collar is
confined arond the neck and the little roles of Ermin skin about the size
of a large quill covers the solders and body nearly to the waist and has
the appearance of a short cloak and is really handsome. these they esteem
very highly, and give or dispose of only on important occasions. the ermin
whic is known to the traiders of the N. W. by the name of the white weasel
is the genuine ermine, and might no doubt be turned to great advantage by
those people if they would encourage the Indians to take them. they are no
doubt extreemly plenty and readily taken, from the number of these tippets
which I have seen among these people and the great number of skins
employed in the construction of each timppet. scarcely any of them have
employed less than one hundred of these skins in their formation. — This
morning Capt. Clark set out at 6 in the morning and soon after arrived
near their camp they having removed about 2 miles higher up the river than
the camp at which they were when I first visited them. the chief requested
a halt, which was complyed with, and a number of the indians came out from
the village and joined them after smoking a few pipes with them they all
proceeded to the village where Capt C. was conducted to a large lodge
prepared in the center of the encampment for himself and party. here they
gave him one salmon and some cakes of dryed berries. he now repeated to
them what had been said to them in council at this place which was
repeated to the village by the Cheif. when he had concluded this address
he requested a guide to accompany him down the river and an elderly man
was pointed out by the Cheif who consented to undertake this task. this
was the old man of whom Cameahwait had spoken as a person well acquainted
with the country to the North of this river. Capt. C. encouraged the
Indians to come over with their horses and assist me over with the
baggage. he distrubuted some presents among the Indians. about half the
men of the village turned out to hunt the antelope but were unsuccessfull.
at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark departed, accompanyed by his guide and party except
one man whom he left with orders to purchase a horse if possible and
overtake him as soon as he could. he left Charbono and the indian woman to
return to my camp with the Indians. he passed the river about four miles
below the Indians, and encamped on a small branch, eight miles distant. on
his way he met a rispectable looking indian who returned and continued
with him all night; this indian gave them three salmon. Capt. C. killed a
cock of the plains or mountain cock. it was of a dark brown colour with a
long and pointed tail larger than the dunghill fowl and had a fleshey
protuberant substance about the base of the upper chap, something like
that of the turkey tho without the snout.
[Clark, August 20, 1805]
August 20th Tuesday 1805 Set out at half past 6 oClock and proceeded on
(met maney parties of Indians) thro a hilley Countrey to the Camp of the
Indians on a branch of the Columbia River, before we entered this Camp a
Serimonious hault was requested by the Chief and I Smoked with all that
Came around for Several pipes, we then proceeded on to the Camp & I
was introduced into the only Lodge they had which was pitched in the
Center for my party all the other Lodges made of bushes, after a fiew
Indian Seremonies I informed the Indians the object of our journey our
good intentions towards them my consern for their distressed Situation,
what we had done for them in makeing a piece with the Minitarras Mandans
Rickara &c. for them-. and requested them all to take over their
horses & assist Capt Leiwis across &c. also informing them the
oject of my journey down the river and requested a guide to accompany me,
all of which was repeited by the Chief to the whole village.
Those pore people Could only raise a Sammon & a little dried Choke
Cherris for us half the men of the tribe with the Chief turned out to hunt
the antilopes, at 3 oClock after giveing a fiew Small articles as presents
I set out accompanied by an old man as a Guide (I endevered to procure as
much information from thos people as possible without much Suckcess they
being but little acquainted or effecting to be So-) I lef one man to
purchase a horse and overtake me and proceeded on thro a wide rich bottom
on a beaten Roade 8 miles Crossed the river and encamped on a Small run,
this evening passed a number of old lodges, and met a number of men women
children & horses, met a man who appeared of Some Consideration who
turned back with us, he halted a woman & gave us 3 Small Sammon, this
man continued with me all night and partook of what I had which was a
little Pork verry Salt. Those Indians are verry attentive to Strangers
&c. I left our interpreter & his woman to accompany the Indians to
Capt Lewis tomorrow the Day they informed me they would Set out I killed a
Pheasent at the Indian Camp larger than a dungal fowl with feshey
protuberances about the head like a turkey. Frost last night
[Lewis, August 21, 1805]
Wednesday August 21st 1805. This morning was very cold. the ice 1/4 of an
inch thick on the water which stood in the vessels exposed to the air.
some wet deerskins that had been spread the grass last evening are stiffly
frozen. the ink feizes in my pen. the bottoms are perfectly covered with
frost insomuch that they appear to be covered with snow. This morning
early I dispatched two hunters to kill some meat if possible before the
Indians arrive; Drewyer I sent with the horse into the cove for that
purpose. The party pursued their several occupations as yesterday. by
evening I had all the baggage, saddles, and harness completely ready for a
march. after dark, I made the men take the baggage to the cash and deposit
it. I beleve we have been unperceived by the Indians in this movement.
notwithstanding the coldness of the last night the day has proved
excessively warm. neither of the hunters returned this evening and I was
obliged to issue pork and corn. The mockersons of both sexes are usually
the same and are made of deer Elk or buffaloe skin dressed without the
hair. sometimes in the winter they make them of buffaloe skin dressed with
the hair on and turn the hair inwards as the Mandans Minetares and most of
the nations do who inhabit the buffaloe country. the mockerson is formed
with one seem on the outer edge of the foot is cut open at the instep to
admit the foot and sewed up behind. in this rispect they are the same with
the Mandans. they sometimes ornament their mockersons with various figures
wrought with the quills of the Porcupine. some of the dressey young men
orniment the tops of their mockersons with the skins of polecats and trale
the tail of that animal on the ground at their heels as they walk.the robe
of the woman is generally smaller than that of the man but is woarn in the
same manner over the sholders. the Chemise is roomy and comes down below
the middle of the leg the upper part of this garment is formed much like
the shirt of the men except the sholder strap which is never used with the
Chemise. in women who give suck, they are left open at the sides nearly as
low as the waist, in others, close as high as the sleeve. the sleeve
underneath as low as the elbow is open, that part being left very full.
the sides tail and upper part of the sleeves are deeply fringed and
sometimes ornimented in a similar manner with the shirts of the men with
the addition of little patches of red cloth about the tail edged around
with beads. the breast is usually ornament with various figures of party
colours rought with the quills of the Porcupine. it is on this part of the
garment that they appear to exert their greatest ingenuity. a girdle of
dressed leather confines the Chemise around the waist. when either the man
or woman wish to disengage their arm from the sleeve they draw it out by
means of the opening underneath the arm an throw the sleeve behind the
body. the legings of the women reach as high as the knee and are confined
with a garter below. the mockerson covers and confins it's lower
extremity. they are neither fringed nor ornamented. these legings are made
of the skins of the antelope and the Chemise usually of those of the large
deer Bighorn and the smallest elk. — They seldom wear the beads they
possess about their necks at least I have never seen a grown person of
either sex wear them on this part; some their children are seen with them
in this way. the men and women were them suspen from the ear in little
bunches or intermixed with triangular peices of the shells of the perl
oister. the men also were them attached in a similar manner to the hare of
the fore part of the crown of the head; to which they sometimes make the
addition of the wings and tails of birds. the nose in neither sex is
pierced nor do they wear any ornament in it. they have a variety of small
sea shells of which they form collars woarn indiscriminately by both
sexes. these as well as the shell of the perl oister they value very
highly and inform us that they obtain them from their friends and
relations who live beyond the barren plain towards the Ocean in a S.
Westerly direction. these friends of theirs they say inhabit a good
country abounding with Elk, deer, bear, and Antelope, and possess a much
greater number of horses and mules than they do themselves; or using their
own figure that their horses and mules are as numerous as the grass of the
plains. the warriors or such as esteem themselves brave men wear collars
made of the claws of the brown bear which are also esteemed of great value
and are preserved with great care. these claws are ornamented with beads
about the thick end near which they are peirced through their sides and
strung on a throng of dressed leather and tyed about the neck commonly
with the upper edge of the tallon next the breast or neck but sometimes
are reversed. it is esteemed by them an act of equal celebrity the killing
one of these bear or an enimy, and with the means they have of killing
this animal it must really be a serious undertaking. the sweet sented
grass which grows very abundant on this river is either twisted or plaited
and woarn around the neck in ether sex, but most commonly by the men. they
have a collar also woarn by either sex. it generally round and about the
size of a man's finger; formed of leather or silk-grass twisted or firmly
rolled and covered with the quills of the porcupine of different colours.
the tusks of the Elk are pierced strung on a throng and woarn as an
orniment for the neck, and is most generally woarn by the women and
children. the men frequently wear the skin of a fox or a broad strip of
that of the otter around the forehead and head in form of a bando. they
are also fond of the feathers of the tail of the beautifull eagle or
callumet birds with which they ornament their own hair and the tails and
mains of their horses. The dress of these people is quite as desent and
convenient as that of any nation of Indians I ever saw.
This morning early Capt. C. resumed his march; at the distance of five
miles he arrived at some brush lodges of the Shoshones inhabited by about
seven families here he halted and was very friendly received by these
people, who gave himself and party as much boiled salmon as they could
eat; they also gave him several dryed salmon and a considerable quantity
of dryed chokecherries. after smoking with them he visited their fish wear
which was abut 200 yds. distant. he found the wear extended across four
channels of the river which was here divided by three small islands. three
of these channels were narrow, and were stoped by means of trees fallen
across, supported by which stakes of willow were driven down sufficiently
near each other to prevent the salmon from passing. about the center of
each a cilindric basket of eighteen or 20 feet in length terminating in a
conic shape at it's lower extremity, formed of willows, was opposed to a
small apperture in the wear with it's mouth up stream to receive the fish.
the main channel of the water was conducted to this basket, which was so
narrow at it's lower extremity that the fish when once in could not turn
itself about, and were taken out by untying the small ends of the
longitudinal willows, which frormed the hull of the basket. the wear in
the main channel was somewhat differently contrived. there were two
distinct wears formed of poles and willow sticks, quite across the river,
at no great distance from each other. each of these, were furnished with
two baskets; the one wear to take them ascending and the other in
decending. in constructing these wears, poles were first tyed together in
parcels of three near the smaller extremity; these were set on end, and
spread in a triangular form at the base, in such manner, that two of the
three poles ranged in the direction of the intended work, and the third
down the stream. two ranges of horizontal poles were next lashed with
willow bark and wythes to the ranging poles, and on these willow sticks
were placed perpendicularly, reaching from the bottom of the river to
about 3 or four feet above it's surface; and placed so near each other, as
not to permit the passage of the fish, and even so thick in some parts, as
with the help of gravel and stone to give a direction to the water which
they wished. — the baskets were the same in form of the others. this
is the form of the work, and disposition of the baskets.
After examining the wears Capt. C. returned to the lodges, and shortly
continued his rout and passed the river to the Lard. side a little
distance below the wears. he sent Collins with an Indian down the Lard.
side of the river to the forks 5 me. in surch of Cruzatte who was left at
the upper camp yesterday to purchase a horse and had followed on today and
passed them by another road while they were at the lodges and had gone on
to the forks. while Capt. Clark was at these lodges an Indian brought him
a tomehawk which he said he found in the grass near the lodge where I had
staid at the upper camp when I was first with his nation the tommahawk was
Drewyer's he missed it in the morning before we had set out and surched
for it but it was not to be found I beleive the young fellow stole it, but
if he did it is the only article they have pilfered and this was now
returned. Capt. C. after traveling about 20 miles through the valley with
the course of the river nearly N. W. encamped on the Stard. side in a
small bottom under a high Clift of rocks. on his way one of the party
killed a very large Salmon in a creek which they passed at the distance of
14 ms. he was joined this evening by Cruzatte and Collins who brought with
them five fresh salmon which had been given them by the Indians at the
forks. the forks of this river is famous as a gig fishery and is much
resorted by the natives. — They killed one deer today. The Guide
apeared to be a very friendly intelligent old man, Capt. C. is much
pleased with him.
[Clark, August 21, 1805]
August 21st Wednesday 1805 Frost last night proceeded on with the Indians
I met about 5 miles to there Camp, I entered a lodge and after Smokeing
with all who Came about me I went to See the place those people take the
fish, a wear across the Creek in which there is Stuk baskets Set in
different derections So as to take the fish either decending or assending
on my return to the Camp which was 200 yards only the different lodges
(which is only bushes) brought in to the lodge I was introduced into,
Sammon boiled, and dried Choke Chers. Sufficent for all my party. — one
man brought me a tomahawk which we expected they had Stolen from a man of
Capt Lewis's party, this man informed me he found the tomk in the grass
near the place the man Slept. Crossed the River and went over a point of
high land & Struck it again near a Bluff on the right Side the man I
left to get a horse at the upper Camp missed me & went to the forks
which is about five miles below the last Camp.
I sent one man by the forks with derections to join me to night with the
one now at that place, those two men joined me at my Camp on the right
Side below the 1st Clift with 5 Sammon which the Indians gave them at the
forks, the place they gig fish at this Season. Their method of takeing
fish with a gig or bone is with a long pole, about a foot from one End is
a Strong String attached to the pole, this String is a little more than a
foot long and is tied to the middle of a bone from 4 to 6 inches long, one
end Sharp the other with a whole to fasten on the end of the pole with a
beard to the large end, the fasten this bone on one end & with the
other, feel for the fish & turn and Strike them So hard that the bone
passes through and Catches on the opposit Side, Slips off the End of the
pole and holds the Center of the bone Those Indians are mild in their
disposition appear Sincere in their friendship, punctial, and decided.
kind with what they have, to Spare. They are excessive pore, nothing but
horses there Enemies which are noumerous on account of there horses &
Defenceless Situation, have Deprived them of tents and all the Small
Conveniances of life. They have only a few indifferent Knives, no ax, make
use of Elk's horn Sharpened to Spit ther wood, no clothes except a Short
Legins & robes of different animals, Beaver, Bear, Buffalow, wolf
Panthor, Ibex, Sheep Deer, but most commonly the antilope Skins which they
ware loosely about them — Their ornements are Orter Skin dcurated with
See Shells & the Skins & tales of the white weasel, Sea Shels of
different size hung to their Ears hair and breast of their Shirts, beeds
of Shells platted grass, and Small Strings of otter Skin dressed, they are
fond of our trinkets, and give us those ornements as the most valueable of
their possession. The women are held Sacred and appear to have an equal
Shere in all Conversation, which is not the Case in any othe nation I have
Seen. their boeys & Girls are also admited to Speak except in
Councils, the women doe all the drugery except fishing and takeing care of
the horses, which the men apr. to take upon themselves. — The men ware
the hair loose flowing over ther Sholders & face the women Cut Short,
orniments of the back bones of fish Strung plated grass grains of Corn
Strung Feathers and orniments of Birds Claws of the Bear encurcling their
necks the most Sacred of all the orniments of this nation is the Sea
Shells of various Sizes and Shapes and colours, of the bassterd perl kind,
which they inform us they get from the Indians to the South on the other
Side of a large fork of this river in passing to which they have to pass
thro Sandy & barron open plains without water to which place they can
travel in 15 or 20 days — The men who passed by the forks informed me
that the S W. fork was double the Size of the one I came down, and I
observed that it was a handsom river at my camp I shall injustice to Capt
Lewis who was the first white man ever on this fork of the Columbia Call
this Louis's river. one Deer killed this morning, and a Sammon in the last
Creek 21/2 feet long The Westerley fork of the Columbia River is double
the Size of the Easterley fork & below those forks the river is about
the Size Jeffersons River near its mouth or 100 yards wide, it is verry
rapid & Sholey water Clear but little timber. This Clift is of a
redish brown Colour the rocks which fall from it is a dark brown flint
tinged with that Colour. Some Gullies of white Sand Stone and Sand fine
& as white as Snow. The mountains on each Side are high, and those on
the East ruged & Contain a fiew Scattering pine, those on the West
contain pine on ther tops & high up the hollows — The bottoms of
this is wide & rich from some distance above the place I struck the
East fork they are also wide on the East Passed a large Creek which fall
in on the right Side 6 miles below the forks a road passes up this Creek
& to the Missouri.
[Lewis, August 22, 1805]
Thursday August 22ed 1805 This morning early I sent a couple of men to
complete the covering of the cash which could not be done well last night
in the dark, they soon accomplished their work and returned. late last
night Drewyer returned with a fawn he had killed and a considerable
quantity of Indian plunder. the anecdote with rispect to the latter is
perhaps worthy of relation. he informed me that while hunting in the Cove
yesterday about 12 OCk. he came suddonly upon an Indian Camp, at which
there were a young man an Old man a boy and three women, that they seemed
but little supprised at seeing him and he rode up to them and dismounted
turning horse out to graize. these people had just finished their repast
on some roots, he entered into conversation with them by signs, and after
about 20 minutes one of the women spoke to the others of the party and
they all went immediately and collected their horses brought them to camp
and saddled them at this moment he thought he would also set out and
continue his hunt, and accorgingly walked to catch his horse at some
little distance and neglected to take up his gun which, he left at camp.
the Indians perceiving him at the distance of fifty paces immediately
mounted their horses, the young man took the gun and the whole of them
left their baggage and laid whip to their horses directing their course to
the pass of the mountains. finding himself deprived of his gun he
immediately mounted his horse and pursued; after runing them about 10
miles the horses of two of the women nearly gave out and the young fellow
with the gun from their frequent crys slackened his pace and being on a
very fleet horse road around the women at a little distance at length
Drewer overtook the women and by signs convinced them that he did not wish
to hirt them they then halted and the young fellow approached still
nearer, he asked him for his gun but the only part of the answer which he
could understand was pah kee which he knew to be the name by which they
called their enimies. watching his opportunity when the fellow was off his
guard he suddonly rode along side of him seized his gun and wrest her out
of his hands. the fellow finding Drewyer too strong for him and
discovering that he must yeald the gun had pesents of mind to open the pan
and cast the priming before he let the gun escape from his hands; now
finding himself devested of the gun he turned his horse about and laid
whip leaving the women to follow him as well as they could. Drewyer now
returned to the place they had left their baggage and brought it with him
to my camp. it consisted of several dressed and undressed skins; a couple
of bags wove with the fingers of the bark of the silk-grass containing
each about a bushel of dryed service berries some checherry cakes and
about a bushel of roots of three different kinds dryed and prepared for
uce which were foalded in as many parchment hides of buffaloe. some flint
and the instrument of bone for manufactureing the flint into arrow points.
some of this flint was as transparent as the common black glass and much
of the same colour easily broken, and flaked off much like glass leaving a
very sharp edge. one speceis of the roots were fusiform abot six inches
long and about the size of a man's finger at the larger end tapering to a
small point. the radicles larger than in most fusiform roots. the rind was
white and thin. the body or consistence of the root was white mealy and
easily reduced by pounding to a substance resembleing flour which thickens
with boiling water something like flour and is agreeably flavored. this
rout is frequently eaten by the Indians either green or in it's dryed
state without the preparation of boiling. another speceis was much
mutilated but appeared to be fibrous; the parts were brittle, hard of the
size of a small quill, cilindric and as white as snow throughout, except
some small parts of the hard black rind which they had not seperated in
the preperation. this the Indians with me informed were always boiled for
use. I made the exprement, found that they became perfectly soft by
boiling, but had a very bitter taste, which was naucious to my pallate,
and I transfered them to the Indians who had eat them heartily. a third
speceis were about the size of a nutmeg, and of an irregularly rounded
form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem artichoke, which they
also resemble in every other appearance. they had become very hard by
being dryed these I also boiled agreeably to the instruction of the
Indians and found them very agreeable. they resemble the Jerusalem
Artichoke very much in their flavor and I thought them preferable, however
there is some allowance to be made for the length of time I have now been
without vegitable food to which I was always much attatched. these are
certainly the best root I have yet seen in uce among the Indians. I asked
the Indians to shew me the plant of which these roots formed a part but
they informed me that neither of them grew near this place. I had set most
of the men at work today to dress the deerskin belonging to those who had
gone on command with Capt. Clark. at 11 A.M. Charbono the Indian Woman,
Cameahwait and about 50 men with a number of women and children arrived.
they encamped near us. after they had turned out their horses and arranged
their camp I called the Cheifs and warriors together and addressed them a
second time; gave them some further presents, particularly the second and
third Cheifs who it appeared had agreeably to their promise exerted
themselves in my favour. having no fresh meat and these poor devils half
starved I had previously prepared a good meal for them all of boiled corn
and beans which I gave them as soon as the council was over and I had
distributed the presents. this was thankfully received by them. the Chief
wished that his nation could live in a country where they could provide
such food. I told him that it would not be many years before the whitemen
would put it in the power of his nation to live in the country below the
mountains where they might cultivate corn beans and squashes. he appeared
much pleased with the information. I gave him a few dryed squashes which
we had brought from the Mandans he had them boiled and declared them to be
the best thing he had ever tasted except sugar, a small lump of which it
seems his sister Sah-cah-gar Wea had given him. late in the evening I made
the men form a bush drag, and with it in about 2 hours they caught 528
very good fish, most of them large trout. among them I now for the first
time saw ten or a douzen of a whte speceis of trout. they are of a silvery
colour except on the back and head, where they are of a bluish cast. the
scales are much larger than the speckled trout, but in their form position
of their fins teeth mouth &c they are precisely like them they are not
generally quite as large but equally well flavored. I distributed much the
greater portion of the fish among the Indians. I purchased five good
horses of them very reasonably, or at least for about the value of six
dollars a peice in merchandize. the Indians are very orderly and do not
croud about our camp nor attempt to disterb any article they see lying
about. they borrow knives kettles &c from the men and always carefully
return them. Capt. Clark says, "we set out early and passed a small creek
at one mile, also the points of four mountains which were high steep and
rocky. the mountains are so steep that it is almost incredible to mention
that horses had passed them. our road in many places lay over the sharp
fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains and lay in confused
heaps for miles together; yet notwithstanding our horsed traveled barefoot
over them as fast as we could and did not detain us. passed two bold
runing streams, and arrived at the entrance of a small river" where some
Indian families resided. they had some scaffoalds of fish and burries
exposed to dry. they were not acquainted with the circumstance of any
whitemen being in their country and were therefore much allarmed on our
approach several of the women and children fled in the woods for shelter.
the guide was behind and the wood thick in which their lodges were
situated we came on them before they had the least notice of us. those who
remained offered us every thing they had, which was but little; they
offered us collars of elks tusks which their children woar Salmon beries
&c. we eat some of their fish and buries but returned them the other
articles they had offered with a present of some small articles which
seemed to add much to their pacification.
The guide who had by this time arrived explained to them who we were and
our object in visiting them; but still there were some of the women and
Children inconsoleable, they continued to cry during our stay, which was
about an hour. a road passes up this river which my guide informed me led
over the mountains to the Missouri. from this place I continued my rout
along the steep side of a mountain for about 3 miles and arrived at the
river near a small Island on the lower point of which we encamped in the
evening we attempted to gig fish but were unsuccessfull only obtaining one
small salmon. in the course of the day we had passed several women and
children geathering burries who were very liberal in bestoing us a part of
their collections. the river is very rapid and shoaly; many rocks lie in
various derections scattered throughout it's bed. There are some few small
pine scattered through the bottoms, of which I only saw one which appeared
as if it would answer for a canoe and that was but small. the tops of the
mountains on the Lard. side are covered with pine and some also scattered
on the sides of all the mountains. I saw today a speceis of woodpecker,
which fed on the seeds of the pine. it's beak and tail were white, it's
wings were black, and every other part of a dark brown. it was about the
size of a robin-
[Clark, August 22, 1805]
August 22d Thursday 1805 We Set out early passed a Small Creek on the
right at 1 mile and the points of four mountains verry Steap high &
rockey, the assent of three was So Steap that it is incrediable to
describe the rocks in maney places loose & Sliped from those mountains
and is a bed of rugid loose white and dark brown loose rock for miles. the
Indian horses pass over those Clifts hills Sids & rocks as fast as a
man, the three horses with me do not detain me any on account of those
dificuelties, passed two bold rung. Streams on the right and a Small river
at the mouth of Which Several families of Indians were encamped and had
Several Scaffolds of fish & buries drying we allarmed them verry much
as they knew nothing of a white man being in their Countrey, and at the
time we approached their lodges which was in a thick place of bushes-my
guiedes were behind. — They offered every thing they possessed (which
was verry littl) to us, Some run off and hid in the bushes The first offer
of theirs were Elks tuskes from around their Childrens necks, Sammon &c.
my guide attempted passifyed those people and they Set before me berres,
& fish to eate, I gave a fiew Small articles to those fritened people
which added verry much to their pasification but not entirely as Some of
the women & Childn. Cried dureing my Stay of an hour at this place, I
proceeded on the Side of a verry Steep & rockey mountain for 3 miles
and Encamped on the lower pt. of an Island. we attempted to gig fish
without Suckcess. caught but one Small one.The last Creek or Small river
is on the right Side and "a road passes up it & over to the Missouri"
in this day passed Several womin and Children gathering and drying buries
of which they were very kind and gave us a part. the river rapid and
Sholey maney Stones Scattered through it in different directions. I Saw to
day Bird of the wood pecker kind which fed on Pine burs its Bill and tale
white the wings black every other part of a light brown, and about the
Size of a robin. Some fiew Pine Scattered in the bottoms & Sides of
the Mountains (the Top of the Motn. to the left Covered &
inaxcessable) I Saw one which would make a Small Canoe.
[Lewis, August 23, 1805]
Friday August 23rd 1805. This morning I arrose very early and despatched
two hunters on horseback with orders to extend their hunt to a greater
distance up the S. E. fork than they had done heretofore, in order if
possible to obtain some meet for ourselves as well as the Indians who
appeared to depend on us for food and our store of provision is growing
too low to indulge them with much more corn or flour. I wished to have set
out this morning but the cheef requested that I would wait untill another
party of his nation arrived which he expected today, to this I consented
from necessity, and therefore sent out the hunters as I have mentioned. I
also laid up the canoes this morning in a pond near the forks; sunk them
in the water and weighted them down with stone, after taking out the plugs
of the gage holes in their bottoms; hoping by this means to guard against
both the effects of high water, and that of the fire which is frequently
kindled in these plains by the natives. the Indians have promised to do
them no intentional injury and beleive they are too lazy at any rate to
give themselves the trouble to raise them from their present situation in
order to cut or birn them. I reminded the chief of the low state of our
stores of provision and advised him to send his young men to hunt, which
he immediately recommended to them and most of them turned out. I wished
to have purchased some more horses of them but they objected against
disposing of any more of them untill we reach their camp beyond the
mountains. the Indians pursued a mule buck near our camp I saw this chase
for about 4 miles it was really entertaining, there were about twelve of
them in pursuit of it on horseback, they finally rode it down and killed
it. the all came in about 1 P.M. having killed 2 mule deer and three
goats. this mule buck was the largest deer of any kind I had ever seen. it
was nearly as large as a doe Elk. I observed that there was but little
division or distribution of the meat they had taken among themselves. some
familes had a large stock and others none. this is not customary among the
nations of Indians with whom I have hitherto been acquainted I asked
Cameahwait the reason why the hunters did not divide the meat among
themselves; he said that meat was so scarce with them that the men who
killed it reserved it for themselves and their own families. my hunters
arrived about 2 in the evening with two mule deer and three common deer. I
distributed three of the deer among those families who appeared to have
nothing to eat. at three P.M. the expected party of Indians arrived, about
50 men women and Children. I now learnt that most of them were thus far on
their way down the valley towards the buffaloe country, and observed that
there was a good deel of anxiety on the part of some of those who had
promised to assist me over the mountains to accompany this party, I felt
some uneasiness on this subject but as they still said they would return
with me as they had promised I said nothing to them but resolved to set
out in the morning as early as possible. I dispatched two hunters this
evening into the cove to hunt and leave the meat they might kill on the
rout we shall pass tomorrow.
The metal which we found in possession of these people consited of a few
indifferent knives, a few brass kettles some arm bands of iron and brass,
a few buttons, woarn as ornaments in their hair, a spear or two of a foot
in length and some iron and brass arrow points which they informed me they
obtained in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky Mountain Indians on
the yellowstone River. the bridlebits and stirrips they obtained from the
Spaniards, tho these were but few. many of them made use of flint for
knives, and with this instrument, skined the animals they killed, dressed
their fish and made their arrows; in short they used it for every purpose
to which the knife is applyed. this flint is of no regular form, and if
they can only obtain a part of it, an inch or two in length that will cut
they are satisfyed, they renew the edge by fleaking off the flint by means
of the point of an Elk's or deer's horn. with the point of a deer or Elk's
horn they also form their arrow points of the flint, with a quickness and
neatness that is really astonishing. we found no axes nor hatchets among
them; what wood they cut was done either with stone or Elk's horn. the
latter they use always to rive or split their wood. their culinary
eutensils exclusive of the brass kettle before mentioned consist of pots
in the form of ajar made either of earth, or of a white soft stone which
becomes black and very hard by birning, and is found in the hills near the
three forks of the Missouri betwen Madison's and Gallitin's rivers they
have also spoons made of the Buffaloe's horn and those of the Bighorn.
Their bows are made of ceader or pine and have nothing remarkable about
them. the back of the bow is covered with sinues and glue and is about
21/2 feet long. much the shape of those used by the Siouxs Mandans
Minnetares &c. their arrows are more slender generally than those used
by the nations just mentioned but much the same in construction. Their
Sheild is formed of buffaloe hide, perfectly arrow proof, and is a circle
of 2 feet 4 I. or 2 F. 6 I. in diameter. this is frequently painted with
varios figures and ornamented around the edges with feather and a fringe
of dressed leather. they sometimes make bows of the Elk's horn and those
also of the bighorn. those of the Elk's horn are made of a single peice
and covered on the back with glue and sinues like those made of wood, and
are frequently ornamented with a stran wrought porcupine quills and sinues
raped around them for some distance at both extremities. the bows of the
bighorn are formed of small peices laid flat and cemented with gleue, and
rolled with sinews, after which, they are also covered on the back with
sinews and glew, and highly ornamented as they are much prized. forming
the sheild is a cerimony of great importance among them, this implement
would in their minds be devested of much of its protecting power were it
not inspired with those virtues by their old men and jugglers. their
method of preparing it is thus, an entire skin of a bull buffaloe two
years old is first provided; a feast is next prepared and all the warriors
old men and jugglers invited to partake. a hole is sunk in the ground
about the same in diameter with the intended sheild and about 18 inches
deep. a parcel of stones are now made red hot and thrown into the hole
water is next thrown in and the hot stones cause it to emit a very strong
hot steem, over this they spread the green skin which must not have been
suffered to dry after taken off the beast. the flesh side is laid next to
the groround and as many of the workmen as can reach it take hold on it's
edges and extend it in every direction. as the skin becomes heated, the
hair seperates and is taken of with the fingers, and the skin continues to
contract untill the whoe is drawn within the compas designed for the
shield, it is then taken off and laid on a parchment hide where they pound
it with their heels when barefoot. this operation of pounding continues
for several days or as long as the feast lasts when it is delivered to the
propryeter and declared by the jugglers and old men to be a sufficient
defence against the arrows of their enimies or even bullets if feast has
been a satisfactory one. many of them beleive implisitly that a ball
cannot penitrate their sheilds, in consequence of certain supernaural
powers with which they have been inspired by their jugglers. — The
Poggamoggon is an instrument with a handle of wood covered with dressed
leather about the size of a whip handle and 22 inches long; a round stone
of 2 pounds weight is also covered with leather and strongly united to the
leather of the handle by a throng of 2 inches long; a loop of leather
united to the handle passes arond the wrist. a very heavy blow may be
given with this instrument. They have also a kind of armor which they form
with many foalds of dressed Atelope's skin, unite with glue and sand. with
this they cover their own bodies and those of their horses. these are
sufficient against the effects of the arrow. — the quiver which
contains their arrows and implements for making fire is formed of various
skins. that of the Otter seems to be prefered. they are but narrow, of a
length sufficent to protect the arrow from the weather, and are woarn on
the back by means of a strap which passes over the left sholder and under
the wright arm.their impliments for making fire is nothing more than a
blunt arrow and a peice of well seasoned soft spongey wood such as the
willow or cottonwood. the point of this arrow they apply to this dry stick
so near one edge of it that the particles of wood which are seperated from
it by the friction of the arrow falls down by it's side in a little pile.
the arrow is held between the palms of the hand with the fingers extended,
and being pressed as much as possible against the peice is briskly rolled
between the palms of the hands backwards and forwards by pressing the
arrow downwards the hands of course in rolling arrow also decend; they
bring them back with a quick motion and repeat the operation till the dust
by the friction takes fire; the peice and arrow are then removed and some
dry grass or Boated wood is added. it astonished me to see in what little
time these people would kindle fire in this way. in less than a minute
they will produce fire.
Capt. Clark set out this morning very early and poroceeded but slowly in
consequence of the difficulty of his road which lay along the steep side
of a mountain over large irregular and broken masses of rocks which had
tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. it was with much wrisk and
pain that the horses could get on. at the distance of four miles he
arrived at the river and the rocks were here so steep and juted into the
river such manner that there was no other alternative but passing through
the river, this he attempted with success tho water was so deep for a
short distance as to swim the horses and was very rapid; he continued his
rout one mile along the edge of the river under this steep Clift to a
little bottom, below which the whole current of the river beat against the
Stard. shore on which he was, and which was formed of a solid rock
perfectly inaccessible to horses. here also the little track which he had
been pursuing, terminated. he therefore determined to leave the horses and
the majority of the party here and with his guide and three men to
continue his rout down the river still further, in order more fully to
satisfy himself as to it's practicability. accordingly he directed the men
to hunt and fish at this place untill his return. they had not killed
anything today but one goose, and the ballance of the little provision
they had brought with them, as well as the five salmon they had procured
yesterday were consumed last evening; there was of tours no inducement for
his halting any time, at this place; after a few minutes he continued his
rout clambering over immence rocks and along the sides of lofty precepices
on the border of the river to the distance of 12 miles, at which place a
large creek discharged itself on the Norh side 12 yds. wide and deep. a
short distance above the entrance of this creek there is a narrow bottom
which is the first that he had found on the river from that in which he
left the horses and party. a plain indian road led up this creek which the
guide informed him led to a large river that ran to the North, and was
frequented by another nation who occasionally visited this river for the
purpose of taking fish. at this place he saw some late appearance of
Indians having been encamped and the tracks of a number of horses. Capt.
C. halted here about 2 hours, caught some small fish, on which, with the
addition of some berries, they dined. the river from the place at which he
left the party to his present station was one continued rapid, in which
there were five shoals neither of which could be passed with loaded canoes
nor even run with empty ones. at those several places therefore it would
be necessary to unload and transport the baggage for a considerable
distance over steep and almost inacassable rocks where there was no
possibility of employing horses for the releif of the men; the canoes
would next have to be let down by cords and even with this precaution
Capt. C. conceived there would be much wriske of both canoes and men. at
one of those shoals the lofty perpendicular rocks which from the bases of
the mountains approach the river so nearly on each side, as to prevent the
possibility of a portage, or passage for the canoes without expending much
labour in removing rocks and cuting away the earth in some places. to
surmount These difficulties, precautions must be observed which in their
execution must necessarily consume much time and provision, neither of
which we can command. the season is now far advanced to remain in these
mountains as the Indians inform us we shall shortly have snow; the salmon
have so far declined that they are themselves haistening from the country
and not an animal of any discription is to be seen in this difficult part
of the river larger than a pheasant or a squirrel and they not abundant;
add to this that our stock of provision is now so low that it would not
support us more than ten days. the bends of the river are short and the
currant beats from side to side against the rocks with great violence. the
river is about 100 yds. wide and so deep that it cannot be foarded but in
a few places, and the rocks approach the river so near in most places that
there is no possibility of passing between them and the water; a passage
therefore with horses along the river is also impracticable. The sides of
these mountains present generally one barren surface of confused and
broken masses of stone. above these are white or brown and towards the
base of a grey colour and so hard that when struck with a steel, yeald
fire like flint. those he had just past were scarcely releived by the
appearance of a tree; but those below the entrance of the creek were
better covered with timber, and there were also some tall pine near the
river. The sides of the mountains are very steep, and the torrents of
water which roll down their sides at certain seasons appear to carry with
them vast quantities of the loose stone into the river. after dinner Capt.
C. continued his rout down the river and at 1/2 a mile pased another creek
not so large as that just mentioned, or about 5 yards wide. here his guide
informed him that by ascending this creek some distance they would have a
better road and would cut off a considerable bend which the river made to
the south; accordingly he pursued a well beaten Indian track which led up
this creek about six miles, then leaving the creek on the wright he passed
over a ridge, and at the distance of a mile arrived at the river where it
passes through a well timbered bottom of about eighty acres of land; they
passed this bottom and asscended a steep and elivated point of a mountain,
from whence the guide shewed him the brake of the river through the
mountains for about 20 miles further. this view was terminated by one of
the most lofty mountains, Capt. C. informed me, he had ever seen which was
perfectly covered with snow. the river directed it's course immediately to
this stupendous mountain at the bace of which the gude informe him those
difficulties of which himself and nation had spoken, commenced. that after
the river reached this mountain it continued it's rout to the North for
many miles between high and perpendicular rocks, roling foaming and
beating against innumerable rocks which crouded it's channel; that then it
penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap leaving a perpendicular rock
on either side as high as the top of the mountain which he beheld. that
the river here making a bend they could not see through the mountain, and
as it was impossible to decend the river or clamber over that vast
mountain covered with eternal snow, neither himself nor any of his nation
had ever been lower in this direction, than in view of the place at which
the river entered this mountain; that if Capt. C. wished him to do so, he
would conduct him to that place, where he thought they could probably
arrive by the next evening. Capt. C. being now perfictly satisfyed as to
the impractability of this rout either by land or water, informed the old
man, that he was convinced of the varacity of his assertions and would now
return to the village from whence they had set out where he expected to
meet myself and party. they now returned to the upper part of the last
creek he had passed, and encamped. it was an hour after dark before he
reached this place. a small river falls into this fork of the Columbia
just above the high mountain through which it passes on the south side.
[Clark, August 23, 1805]
August 23rd Friday 1805 We Set out early proceed on with great dificuelty
as the rocks were So Sharp large and unsettled and the hill sides Steep
that the horses could with the greatest risque and dificulty get on, no
provisions as the 5 Sammons given us yesterday by the Indians were eaten
last night, one goose killed this morning; at 4 miles we came to a place
the horses Could not pass without going into the river, we passed one mile
to a verry bad riffle the water Confined in a narrow Channel & beeting
against the left Shore, as we have no parth further and the Mounts. jut So
close as to prevent the possibiley of horses proceeding down, I deturmined
to delay the party here and with my guide and three men proceed on down to
examine if the river continued bad or was practiable. I Set out with three
men directing those left to hunt and fish until my return. I proceeded on
Somtims in a Small wolf parth & at other times Climeing over the rocks
for 12 miles to a large Creek on the right Side above the mouth of this
Creek for a Short distance is a narrow bottom & the first, below the
place I left my partey, a road passes down this Creek which I understoode
passed to the water of a River which run to Th North & was the ground
of another nation, Some fresh Sign about this Creek of horse and Camps. I
delayd 2 hours to fish, Cought Some Small fish on which we dined.
The River from the place I left my party to this Creek is almost one
continued rapid, five verry Considerable rapids the passage of either with
Canoes is entirely impossable, as the water is Confined betwen hugh Rocks
& the Current beeting from one against another for Some distance below
&c. &c. at one of those rapids the mountains Close So Clost as to
prevent a possibility of a portage with great labour in Cutting down the
Side of the hill removeing large rocks &c. &c. all the others may
be passed by takeing every thing over Slipery rocks, and the Smaller ones
Passed by letting down the Canoes empty with Cords, as running them would
certainly be productive of the loss of Some Canoes, those dificuelties and
necessary precautions would delay us an emince time in which provisions
would be necessary. (we have but little and nothing to be precured in this
quarter except Choke Cheres & red haws not an animal of any kind to be
seen and only the track of a Bear) below this Creek the lofty Pine is
thick in the bottom hill Sides on the mountains & up the runs. The
river has much the resemblance of that above bends Shorter and no passing,
after a few miles between the river & the mountains & the Current
So Strong that is dangerous crossing the river, and to proceed down it
would rendr it necessarey to Cross almost at every bend This river is
about 100 yards wide and can be forded but in a few places. below my guide
and maney other Indians tell me that the Mountains Close and is a
perpendicular Clift on each Side, and Continues for a great distance and
that the water runs with great violence from one rock to the other on each
Side foaming & roreing thro rocks in every direction, So as to render
the passage of any thing impossible. those rapids which I had Seen he said
was Small & trifleing in comparrison to the rocks & rapids below,
at no great distance & The Hills or mountains were not like those I
had Seen but like the Side of a tree Streight up — Those Mountains
which I had passed were Steep Contain a white, a brown, & low down a
Grey hard stone which would make fire, those Stone were of different Sises
all Sharp and are continuly Slipping down, and in maney places one bed of
those Stones inclined from the river bottom to the top of the mountains,
The Torrents of water which come down aftr a rain carries with it emence
numbers of those Stone into the river about 1/2 a mile below the last
mentioned Creek another Creek falls in, my guide informed me that our rout
was up this Creek by which rout we would Save a considerable bend of the
river to the South. we proceeded on a well beeten Indian parth up this
Creak about 6 miles and passed over a ridge 1 mile to the river in a Small
vally through which we passed and assended a Spur of the Mountain from
which place my guide Shew me the river for about 20 miles lower &
pointed out the dificulty we returned to the last Creek & camped about
one hour after dark.
There my guide Shewed me a road from the N Which Came into the one I was
in which he Said went to a large river which run to the north on which was
a Nation he called Tushapass, he made a map of it
[Lewis, August 24, 1805]
Saturday August 24th 1805. As the Indians who were on their way down the
Missouri had a number of spare hoses with them I thought it probable that
I could obtain some of them and therefore desired the Cheif to speak to
them and inform me whether they would trade. they gave no positive answer
but requested to see the goods which I was willing to give in exchange. I
now produced some battle axes which I had made at Fort Mandan with which
they were much pleased. knives also seemed in great demand among them. I
soon purchased three horses and a mule. for each horse I gave an ax a
knife handkercheif and a little paint; & for the mule the addition of
a knife a shirt handkercheif and a pair of legings; at this price which
was quite double that given for the horses, the fellow who sold him made a
merit of having bestoed me one of his mules. I consider this mule a great
acquisition. These Indians soon told me that they had no more horses for
sale and I directed the party to prepare to set out. I had now nine horses
and a mule, and two which I had hired made twelve these I had loaded and
the Indian women took the ballance of the baggage. I had given the
Interpreter some articles with which to purchase a horse for the woman
which he had obtained. at twelve Oclock we set out and passed the river
below the forks, directing our rout towards the cove along the track
formerly mentioned. most of the horses were heavily laden, and it appears
to me that it will require at least 25 horses to convey our baggage along
such roads as I expect we shall be obliged to pass in the mountains. I had
now the inexpressible satisfaction to find myself once more under way with
all my baggage and party. an Indian had the politeness to offer me one of
his horses to ride which I accepted with cheerfullness as it enabled me to
attend better to the march of the party. I had reached the lower part of
the cove when an Indian rode up and informed me that one of my men was
very sick and unable to come on. I directed the party to halt at a small
run which falls into the creek on Lard. at the lower part of the Cove and
rode back about 2 Miles where I found Wiser very ill with a fit of the
cholic. I sent Sergt. Ordway who had remained with him for some water and
gave him a doze of the essence of Peppermint and laudinum which in the
course of half an hour so far recovered him that he was enabled to ride my
horse and I proceeded on foot and rejoined the party. the sun was yet an
hour high but the Indians who had for some time impatiently waited my
return at length unloaded and turned out their horses and my party had
followed there ex-ample. as it was so late and the Indians had prepared
their camp for the night I thought it best to acquiess and determined also
to remain. we had traveled only about six miles. after we encamped we had
a slight shower of rain. Goodrich who is our principal fisherman caught
several fine trout. Drewyer came to us late in the evening and had not
killed anything. I gave the Indians who were absolutely engaged in
transporting the baggage, a little corn as they had nothing to eat. I told
Cameahwait that my stock of provision was too small to indulge all his
people with provision and recommended it to him to advise such as were not
assisting us with our baggage to go on to their camp to morrow and wait
our arrival; which he did accordingly. Cameahwait literally translated is
one who never walks. he told me that his nation had also given him another
name by which he was signalized as a warrior which was Too-et'-te-con'-e
or black gun. these people have many names in the course of their lives,
particularly if they become distinguished characters. for it seems that
every important event by which they happen to distinguish themselves
intitles them to claim another name which is generally scelected by
themselves and confirmed by the nation. those distinguishing acts are the
killing and scalping an enemy, the killing a white bear, leading a party
to war who happen to be successfull either in destroying their enemies or
robing them of their horses, or individually stealing the horses of an
enemy. these are considered acts of equal heroism among them, and that of
killing an enemy without scalping him is considered of no importance; in
fact the whole honour seems to be founded in the act of scalping, for if a
man happens to slay a dozen of his enemies in action and others get the
scalps or first lay their hand on the dead person the honor is lost to him
who killed them and devolves on those who scalp or first touch them. Among
the Shoshones, as well as all the Indians of America, bravery is esteemed
the primary virtue; nor can any one become eminent among them who has not
at some period of his life given proofs of his possessing this virtue.
with them there can be no preferment without some warelike achievement,
and so completely interwoven is this principle with the earliest Elements
of thought that it will in my opinion prove a serious obstruction to the
restoration of a general peace among the nations of the Missouri. while at
Fort Mandan I was one day addressing some cheifs of the Minetares wo
visited us and pointing out to them the advantages of a state of peace
with their neighbours over that of war in which they were engaged. the
Chiefs who had already geathered their havest of larals, and having
forceably felt in many instances some of those inconveniences attending a
state of war which I pointed out, readily agreed with me in opinon. a
young fellow under the full impression of the Idea I have just suggested
asked me if they were in a state of peace with all their neighhours what
the nation would do for Cheifs?, and added that the cheifs were now oald
and must shortly die and that the nation could not exist without cheifs.
taking as granted that there could be no other mode devised for making
Cheifs but that which custom had established through the medium of warlike
acievements.
The few guns which the Shoshones have are reserved for war almost
exclusively and the bow and arrows are used in hunting. I have seen a few
skins among these people which have almost every appearance of the common
sheep. they inform me that they finde this animals on the high mountains
to the West and S. W. of them. it is about the size of the common sheep,
the wool is reather shorter and more intermixed with long hairs
particularly on the upper part of the neck. these skins have been so much
woarn that I could not form a just Idea of the animal or it's colour. the
Indians however inform me that it is white and that it's horns are lunated
comprest twisted and bent backward as those of the common sheep. the
texture of the skin appears to be that of the sheep. I am now perfectly
convinced that the sheep as well as the Bighorn exist in these mountains.
The usual caparison of the Shoshone horse is a halter and saddle. the 1st
consists either of a round plated or twisted cord of six or seven strands
of buffaloe's hair, or a throng of raw hide made pliant by pounding and
rubing. these cords of bufaloe's hair are about the size of a man's finger
and remarkably strong. this is the kind of halter which is prefered by
them. the halter of whatever it may be composed is always of great length
and is never taken from the neck of the horse which they commonly use at
any time. it is first attatched at one end about the neck of the horse
with a knot that will not slip, it is then brought down to his under jaw
and being passed through the mouth imbaces the under jaw and tonge in a
simple noose formed by crossing the rope inderneath the jaw of the horse.
this when mounted he draws up on the near side of the horse's neck and
holds in the left hand, suffering it to trail at a great distance behind
him sometimes the halter is attatched so far from the end that while the
shorter end serves him to govern his horse, the other trails on the grond
as before mentioned. they put their horses to their full speed with those
cords trailing on the ground. when they turn out the horse to graze the
noose is mearly loosed from his mouth. the saddle is made of wood and
covered with raw hide which holds the parts very firmly together. it is
made like the pack saddles in uce among the French and Spaniards. it
consists of two flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horses back,
and are held frirm by two peices which are united to them behind and
before on the outer side and which rise to a considerable hight
terminating sometimes in flat horizontal points extending outwards, and
alwas in an accute angle or short bend underneath the upper part of these
peices. a peice of buffaloe's skin with the hair on, is usually put
underneath the saddle; and very seldom any covering on the saddle.
stirrups when used are made of wood and covered with leather. these are
generally used by the elderly men and women; the young men scarcely ever
use anything more than a small pad of dressed leather stuffed with hair,
which is confined with a leather thong passing arond the body of the horse
in the manner of a girth. they frequently paint their favorite horses, and
cut their ears in various shapes. they also decorate their mains and
tails, which they never draw or trim, with the feathers of birds, and
sometimes suspend at the breast of the horse the finest ornaments they
possess. the Spanish bridle is prefered by them when they can obtain them,
but they never dispence with the cord about the neck of the horse, which
serves them to take him with more ease when he is runing at large. They
are excellent horsemen and extreemly expert in casting the cord about the
neck of a horse. the horses that have been habituated to be taken with the
cord in this way, however wild they may appear at first, surrender the
moment they feel the cord about their necks. — There are no horses in
this quarter which can with propriety be termed wild. there are some few
which have been left by the indians at large for so great a length of time
that they have become shye, but they all shew marks of having been in
possession of man. such is that one which Capt. Clark saw just below the
three forks of the Missouri, and one other which I saw on the Missouri
below the entrance of the Mussle shell river. — Capt. Clark set out
very early this morning on his return, he traveled down the creek to it's
entrance by the same Indian track he had ascended it; at the river he
marked his name on a pine tree, then ascended to the bottom above the
second creek, and brekfasted on burries, which occupyed them about one
hour. he now retraced his former track and joined the party where he had
left them at 4 P.M. on his way Capt. C. fell from a rock and injured one
of his legs very much. the party during his absence had killed a few
pheasants and caught a few small fish on which together with haws and
Serviceburies they had subsisted. they had also killed one cock of the
Mountains Capt. Clark now wrote me a discription of the river and country,
and stated our prospects by this rout as they have been heretofore
mentioned and dispatched Colter on horseback with orders to loose no time
reaching me. he set out late with the party continued his rout about two
miles and encamped. Capt Clark had seen some trees which would make small
canoes but all of them some distance below the Indian Caps which he passed
at the entrance of fish Creek.
[Clark, August 24, 1805]
August 24th Satturday 1805 Set out verry early this morning on my return
passed down the Creek at the mouth marked my name on a pine Tree, proceed
on to the bottom above the Creek & Brackfast on buries & delayed 1
hour, then proceed on up the river by the Same rout we decended to the
place I left my party where we arrived at 4 oClock, (I Sliped &
bruised my leg verry much on a rock) the party had killed Several phesents
and Cought a fiew Small fish on which they had Subsisted in my absence.
also a heath hen, near the Size of a Small turkey.
I wrote a letter to Capt Lewis informing him of the prospects before us
and information recved of my guide which I thought favourable &c.
& Stating two plans one of which for us to pursue &c. and
despatched one man & horse and directed the party to get ready to
march back, every man appeared disheartened from the prospects of the
river, and nothing to eate, I Set out late and Camped 2 miles above,
nothing to eate but Choke Cherries & red haws which act in different
ways So as to make us Sick, dew verry heavy, my beding wet in passing
around a rock the horses were obliged to go deep into the water.
The plan I stated to Capt Lewis if he agrees with me we shall adopt is to
procure as many horses (one for each man) if possible and to hire my
present guide who I sent on to him to interegate thro the Intprtr. and
proceed on by land to Some navagable part of the Columbia River, or to the
Ocean, depending on what provisions we can procure by the gun aded to the
Small Stock we have on hand depending on our horses as the last resort.
a second plan to divide the party one part to attempt this deficuet river
with what provisions we had, and the remaindr to pass by Land on hose back
Depending on our gun &c for Provisions &c. and come together
occasionally on the river.
the 1s of which I would be most pleased with &c.
I saw Several trees which would make Small Canoes and by putting 2
together would make a Siseable one, all below the last Indian Camp Several
miles
[Lewis, August 25, 1805]
Sunday August 25th 1805. This morning loaded our horses and set out a
little after sunrise; a few only of the Indians unengaged in assisting us
went on as I had yesterday proposed to the Cheif. the others flanked us on
each side and started some Antelope which they pursued for several hours
but killed none of them. we proceeded within 2 Ms. of the narrow pass or
seven miles from our camp of last evening and halted for dinner. Our
hunters joined us at noon with three deer the greater part of which I gave
the indians. sometime after we had halted, Charbono mentioned to me with
apparent unconcern that he expected to meet all the Indians from the camp
on the Columbia tomorrow on their way to the Missouri. allarmed at this
information I asked why he expected to meet them. he then informed me that
the 1st Cheif had dispatched some of his young men this morning to this
camp requesting the Indians to meet them tomorrow and that himself and
those with him would go on with them down the Missouri, and consequently
leave me and my baggage on the mountain or thereabouts. I was out of
patience with the folly of Charbono who had not sufficient sagacity to see
the consequencies which would inevitably flow from such a movement of the
indians, and altho he had been in possession of this information since
early in the morning when it had been communicated to him by his Indian
woman yet he never mentioned it untill the after noon. I could not forbear
speaking to him with some degree of asperity on this occasion. I saw that
there was no time to be lost in having those orders countermanded, or that
we should not in all probability obtain any more horses or even get my
baggage to the waters of the Columbia. I therefore Called the three Cheifs
together and having smoked a pipe with them, I asked them if they were men
of their words, and whether I could depent on the promises they had made
me; they readily answered in the affermative; I then asked them if they
had not promised to assist me with my baggage to their camp on the other
side of the mountains, or to the place at which Capt. Clark might build
the canoes, should I wish it. they acknowledged that they had. I then
asked them why they had requested their people on the other side of the
mountain to meet them tomorrow on the mountain where there would be no
possibility of our remaining together for the purpose of trading for their
horses as they had also promised. that if they had not promised to have
given me their assistance in transporting my baggage to the waters on the
other side of the mountain that I should not have attempted to pass the
mountains but would have returned down the river and that in that case
they would never have seen anymore white men in their country. that if
they wished the white men to be their friends and to assist them against
their enemies by furnishing them with arms and keeping their enemies from
attacking them that they must never promis us anything which they did not
mean to perform. that when I had first seen them they had doubted what I
told them about the arrival of the party of whitemen in canoes, that they
had been convinced that what I told them on that occasion was true, why
then would they doubt what I said on any other point. I told them that
they had witnessed my liberality in dividing the meat which my hunters
killed with them; and that I should continue to give such of them as
assisted me a part of whatever we had ourselves to eat. and finally
concluded by telling them if they intended to keep the promisses they had
made me to dispatch one of their young men immediately with orders to
their people to remain where they were untill our arrival. the two
inferior cheifs said that they wished to assist me and be as good as their
word, and that they had not sent for their people, that it was the first
Chief who had done so, and they did not approve of the measure. Cameahwait
remained silent for some time, at length he told me that he knew he had
done wrong but that he had been induced to that measure from seeing all
his people hungary, but as he had promised to give me his assistance he
would not in future be worse than his word. I then desired him to send
immediately and countermand his orders; acordingly a young man was sent
for this purpose and I gave him a handkerchief to engage him in my
interest. this matter being arranged to my satisfaction I called all the
women and men together who had been assisting me in the transportation of
the baggage and gave them a billet for each horse which they had imployed
in that service and informed them when we arrived at the plaice where we
should finally halt on the river I would take the billet back and give
them merchandize for it. every one appeared now satisfyed and when I
ordered the horses loaded for our departure the Indians were more than
usually allert. we continued our march untill late in the evening and
encamped at the upper part of the cove where the creek enters the
mountains; here our hunters joined us with another deer which they had
killed, this I gave to the women and Children, and for my own part
remained supperless. I observed considerable quantities of wild onions in
the bottom lands of this cove. I also saw several large hares and many of
the cock of the plains.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his rout to the
indian camp at the entrance of fish Creek; here he halted about an hour;
the indians gave himself and party some boiled salmon and hurries. these
people appeared extreemly hospitable tho poor and dirty in the extreem. he
still pursued the track up the river by which he had decended and in the
evening arrived at the bluff on the river where he had encamped on the
21st Inst. it was late in the evening before he reached this place. they
formed their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in different directions to hunt
and fish. some little time after they halted a party of Indians passed by
on their way down the river, consisting of a man a woman and several boys;
from these people the guide obtained 2 salmon which together with some
small fish they caught and a beaver which Shannon killed furnished them
with a plentifull supper. the pine grows pretty abundantly high up on the
sides of the mountains on the opposite side of the river. one of the
hunters saw a large herd of Elk on the opposite side of the river in the
edge of the timbered land. — Winsor was taken very sick today and
detained Capt C. very much on his march. three hunters whom he had sent on
before him this morning joined him in the evening having killed nothing;
they saw only one deer.
The course and the distances, of Capt. Clark's rout down this branch of
the Columbia below this bluff, commencing opposite to an Island, are as
follow.
This morning while passing through the Shoshone cove Frazier fired his
musquet at some ducks in a little pond at the distance of about 60 yards
from me; the ball rebounded from the water and pased within a very few
feet of me. near the upper part of this cove the Shoshonees suffered a
very severe defeat by the Minnetares about six years since. this part of
the cove on the N. E. side of the Creek has lately been birned by the
Indians as a signal on some occasion.
[Clark, August 25, 1805]
August 25th Sunday 1805 Set out verry early and halted one hour at the
Indian Camp, they were kind gave us all a little boiled Sarnmon &
dried buries to eate, abt. half as much as I could eate, those people are
kind with what they have but excessive pore & Durtey. — we
proceeded on over the mountains we had before passed to the Bluff we
Encamped at on the 21s instant where we arrived late and turned out to
hunt & fish, Cought Several Small fish, a party of Squars & one
man with Several boys going down to guathe berries below, my guide got two
Sammon from this party (which made about half a Supper for the party),
after Dark Shannon came in with a beaver which the Party suped on
Sumptiously — one man verry Sick to day which detained us verry much I
had three hunters out all day, they saw one Deer, killed nothing. one of
the Party Saw 9 Elk on a Mountain to our right assending, amongst the Pine
timber which is thick on that side
[Lewis, August 26, 1805]
Monday August 26th 1805. This morning was excessively cold; there was ice
on the vessels of water which stood exposed to the air nearly a quarter of
an inch thick. we collected our horses and set out at sunrise. we soon
arrived at the extreem source of the Missouri; here I halted a few
minutes, the men drank of the water and consoled themselves with the idea
of having at length arrived at this long wished for point. from hence we
proceeded to a fine spring on the side of the mountain where I had lain
the evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. here I halted to
dine and graize our horses, there being fine green grass on that part of
the hillside which was moistened by the water of the spring while the
grass on the other parts was perfectly dry and parched with the sun. I
directed a pint of corn to be given each Indian who was engaged in
transporting our baggage and about the same quantity to each of the men
which they parched pounded and made into supe. one of the women who had
been assisting in the transportation of the baggage halted at a little run
about a mile behind us, and sent on the two pack horses which she had been
conducting by one of her female friends. I enquired of Cameahwait the
cause of her detention, and was informed by him in an unconcerned manner
that she had halted to bring fourth a child and would soon overtake us; in
about an hour the woman arrived with her newborn babe and passed us on her
way to the camp apparently as well as she ever was. It appears to me that
the facility and ease with which the women of the aborigines of North
America bring fourth their children is reather a gift of nature than
depending as some have supposed on the habitude of carrying heavy burthens
on their backs while in a state of pregnancy. if a pure and dry air, an
elivated and cold country is unfavourable to childbirth, we might expect
every difficult incident to that operation of nature in this part of the
continent; again as the snake Indians possess an abundance of horses,
their women are seldom compelled like those in other parts of the
continent to carry burthens on their backs, yet they have their children
with equal convenience, and it is a rare occurrence for any of them to
experience difficulty in childbirth. I have been several times informed by
those who were conversent with the fact, that the indian women who are
pregnant by whitemen experience more difficulty in childbirth than when
pregnant by an Indian. if this be true it would go far in suport of the
opinion I have advanced.
the tops of the high and irregular mountains which present themselves to
our view on the opposite side of this branch of the Columbia are yet
perfectly covered with snow; the air which proceeds from those mountains
has an agreeable coolness and renders these parched and South hillsides
much more supportable at this time of the day it being now about noon. I
observe the indian women collecting the root of a speceis of fennel which
grows in the moist grounds and feeding their poor starved children; it is
really distressing to witness the situation of those poor wretches. the
radix of this plant is of the knob kind, of a long ovate form terminating
in a single radicle, the whole bing about 3 or four inches in length and
the thickest part about the size of a man's little finger. it is white
firm and crisp in it's present state, when dryed and pounded it makes a
fine white meal; the flavor of this root is not unlike that of annisseed
but not so pungent; the stem rises to the hight of 3 or four feet is
jointed smooth and cilindric; from r to 4 of those knobed roots are
attatched to the base of this stem. the leaf is sheathing sessile, &
pultipartite, the divisions long and narrow; the whole is of a deep green.
it is now in blame; the flowers are numerous, small, petals white, and are
of the umbellaferous kind. several small peduncles put forth from the main
stock one at each joint above the sheathing leaf. it has no root leaves.
the root of the present year declines when the seeds have been matured and
the succeeding spring other roots of a similar kind put fourth from the
little knot which unites the roots and stem and grow and decline with the
stem as before mentioned. The sunflower is very abundant near the
watercourses the seeds of this plant are now rip and the natives collect
them in considerable quantities and reduce them to meal by pounding and
rubing them between smooth stones. this meal is a favorite food their
manner of using it has been beforementiond. after dinner we continued our
rout towards the village. on our near approach we were met by a number of
young men on horseback. Cameahwait requested that we would discharge our
guns when we arrived in sight of the Village, accordingly when I arrived
on an eminence above the village in the plain I drew up the party at open
order in a single rank and gave them a runing fire discharging two rounds.
they appeared much gratifyed with this exhibition. we then proceeded to
the village or encampment of brush lodges 32 in number. we were conducted
to a large lodge which had been prepared for me in the center of their
encampmerit which was situated in a beautifull level smooth and extensive
bottom near the river about 3 miles above the place I had first found them
encamped. here we arrived at 6 in the evening arranged our baggage near my
tent and placed those of the men on either side of the baggage facing
outwards. I found Colter here who had just arrived with a letter from
Capt. Clark in which Capt. C. had given me an account of his peregrination
and the description of the river and country as before detailed from this
view of the subject I found it a folly to think of attemping to decend
this river in canoes and therefore to commence the purchase of horses in
the morning from the indians in order to carry into execution the design
we had formed of passing the rocky Mountains. I now informed Cameahwait of
my intended expedition overland to the great river which lay in the plains
beyond the mountains and told him that I wished to purchase 20 horses of
himself and his people to convey our baggage. he observed that the
Minnetares had stolen a great number of their horses this spring but hoped
his people would spear me the number I wished. I also asked a guide, he
observed that he had no doubt but the old man who was with Capt. C. would
accompany us if we wished him and that he was better informed of the
country than any of them. matters being thus far arranged I directed the
fiddle to be played and the party danced very merily much to the amusement
and gratification of the natives, though I must confess that the state of
my own mind at this moment did not well accord with the prevailing mirth
as I somewhat feared that the caprice of the indians might suddenly induce
them to withhold their horses from us without which my hopes of
prosicuting my voyage to advantage was lost; however I determined to keep
the indians in a good humour if possible, and to loose no time in
obtaining the necessary number of horses. I directed the hunters to turn
out early in the morning and indeavor to obtain some meat. I had nothing
but a little parched corn to eat this evening.
This morning Capt. C. and party
[Clark, August 26, 1805]
August 26th Monday 1805 a fine morning Despatched three men a head to
hunt, our horses missing Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them,
which detained me untill 9 oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and
proceeded on by the way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the first were
not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could kill nothing
and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians
gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a
Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp
flocked about me untill I went to Sleep — and I beleve if they had a
Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it
I derected the men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the
morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of
the large Black grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few
Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions
[Clark, August 27, 1805]
August 27th Tuesday 1805 Some frost this morning every Man except one, out
hunting, a young man Came from the upper Village & informed me that
Capt Lewis would join me abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small
Sammon, and the Indians gave me another which afforded us a Sleight
brackfast. Those Pore people are here depending on what fish They Can
Catch, without anything else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party
hourly Complaining of their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a
Countrey where no game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an
Indian brough in to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which
afforded us a Supper.
[Clark, August 28, 1805]
August 28th Wednesday 1805 a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of
their traps Several Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which
we made last us to day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the
West fork and passed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every
exertion in all places where game probably might be found. I dispatched
one man to the upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he
returned after night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his
Situation at the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout
through by land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with
me in; and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed
him they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those
pore but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small
fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all day
& killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I
had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are
pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my flesh
I find is declineing
[Clark, August 29, 1805]
August 29th Thursday 1805 a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the
South, I left our baggage in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to
join Capt Lewis at the upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1
oClock found him much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a
fiew more horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring
to impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell
us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way possibly
that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them at Some
place where there was plenty of buffalow, — our wish is to get a horse
for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride
occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed as
to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads &
feed on the Grass which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain Thro
which we may expect to pass on our rout made Some Selestial observations,
the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North. Longtd. ____ W
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls Powder & a
Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday &
3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none for
8 days past
[Clark, August 30, 1805]
August 30th Friday 1805 a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no
more horse than we had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint
number for each of our Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my
Fuzee to one of the men & Sold his musket for a horse which Completed
us to 29 total horses, we Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out
on our rout down the river by land guided by my old guide one other who
joined him, the old gude's 3 Sons followed him before we Set out our
hunters killed three Deer proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river
South Side — at the time we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater
Part of the Band Set out over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great
attention paid to the horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and
Several pore, & young Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs
and others not acustomed to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them
are Compelled to purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion
of baggage of the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles
to day
[Clark, August 31, 1805]
August 31st 1805 Satturday A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we
passed the lodges at which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2
men, Those 2 men joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended
the 21st Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze
the wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with
great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were
Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges
indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far as
the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a
tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the
road leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians followed
us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one Deer a goose
& Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open Valies on
fire in Several places — The Countrey is Set on fire for the purpose
of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads to go to
the Missouri where They intend passing the winter near the Buffalow
Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run
[Clark, September 1, 1805]
September 1st Sunday 1805 a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on
over high ruged hills passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into
the river on our left to a large Creek which falls into the river 6 miles
to our left and encamped in the bottom, Some rain to day at 12 and in the
evening which obliges us to Continu all night despatched 2 men to the
mouth of the Creek to purchase fish of the Indians at that place, They
returned with Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day.
the Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken Pore
Stoney hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek which is narrow, all
the Indians leave us except our Guide, one man Shot two bear this evining
unfortunately we Could git neither of them
[Clark, September 2, 1805]
September 2nd Monday 1805 a Cloudy Mornin, raind Some last night we Set
out early and proceeded on up the Creek, Crossed a large fork from the
right and one from the left; and at 8 miles left the roade on which we
were pursuing and which leads over to the Missouri; and proceeded up a
West fork without a roade proceded on thro thickets in which we were
obliged to Cut a road, over rockey hill Sides where our horses were in
pitial danger of Slipping to Ther certain distruction & up & Down
Steep hills, where Several horses fell, Some turned over, and others
Sliped down Steep hill Sides, one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with
the greatest dificuelty risque &c. we made five miles & Encamped
on The left Side of the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom after night Some
time before the rear Came up, one Load left, about 2 miles back, the horse
on which it was Carried Crippled. Some rain at night
[Clark, September 3, 1805]
September 3rd Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men
back with the horse on which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back last
night which detained us until) 8 oClock at which time we Set out. The
Country is timbered with Pine Generally the bottoms have a variety of
Srubs & the fur trees in Great abundance. hills high & rockey on
each Side, in the after part of the day the high mountains closed the
Creek on each Side and obliged us to take on the Steep Sides of those
Mountains, So Steep that the horses Could Screcly keep from Slipping down,
Several Sliped & Injured themselves verry much, with great dificuelty
we made ____ miles & Encamped on a branh of the Creek we assended
after Crossing Several Steep points & one mountain, but little to eate
I killed 5 Pheasents & The huntes 4 with a little Corn afforded us a
kind of Supper, at dusk it began to Snow at 3 oClock Some rain. The
mountains to the East Covered with Snow. we met with a great misfortune,
in haveing our last Thmometer broken by accident, This day we passed over
emence hils and Some of the worst roade that ever horses passed our horses
frequently fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it began to rain which
termonated in a Sleet our genl. Courses nearly North from the R
[Clark, September 4, 1805]
September 4th Wednesday 1805 a verry cold morning every thing wet and
frosed, we detained untill 8 oClock to thaw the covering for the baggage
&c. &c. groun covered with Snow, we assended a mountain & took
a Divideing ridge which we kept for Several Miles & fell on the head
of a Creek which appeared to run the Course we wished to go, I was in
front, & Saw Several of the Argalia or Ibex decended the mountain by
verry Steep decent takeing the advantage of the points and best places to
the Creek, where our hunter killed a Deer which we made use of and prosued
our Course down the Creek to the forks about 5 miles where we met a part
of the Flat head nation of 33 Lodges about 80 men 400 Total and at least
500 horses, those people recved us friendly, threw white robes over our
Sholders & Smoked in the pipes of peace, we Encamped with them &
found them friendly but nothing but berries to eate a part of which they
gave us, those Indians are well dressed with Skin Shirts & robes, they
Stout & light complected more So than Common for Indians, The Chiefs
harangued untill late at night, Smoked our pipe and appeared Satisfied. I
was the first white man who ever wer on the waters of this river.
[Clark, September 5, 1805]
September 5th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning we assembled the Chiefs &
warriers and Spoke to them (with much dificuely as what we Said had to
pass through Several languajes before it got in to theirs, which is a
gugling kind of languaje Spoken much thro the fhrought) we informed them
who we were, where we Came from, where bound and for what purpose &c.
&c. and requsted to purchase & exchange a fiew horses with them,
in the Course of the day I purchased 11 horses & exchanged 7 for which
we gave a fiew articles of merchendize. those people possess ellegant
horses. — we made 4 Chiefs whome we gave meadels & a few Small
articles with Tobacco; the women brought us a few berries & roots to
eate and the Principal Chief a Dressed Brarow, otter & two Goat &
antilope Skins
Those people wore their hair the men Cewed with otter Skin on each Side
falling over the Sholrs forward, the women loose promisquisly over ther
Sholdrs & face long Shirts which Coms to the anckles & tied with a
belt about their waste with a roabe over, the have but fiew ornaments and
what they do were are Similar to the Snake Indians, They Call themselves
Eoote-lash-Schute and consist of 450 Lodges in all and divided into
Several bands on the heads of Columbia river & Missouri, Some low down
the Columbia River
[Clark, September 6, 1805]
September 6th Friday 1805 Some little rain, purchased two fine horses
& took a Vocabiliary of the language litened our loads & packed
up, rained contd. Untill 12 oClock we Set out at 2 oClock at the Same time
all the Indians Set out on Ther way to meet the Snake Indians at the 3
forks of the Missouri. Crossed a Small river from the right we call ____
Soon after Setting out, also a Small Creek from the North all three forks
Comeing together below our Camp at which place the Mountains Close on each
Side of the river, We proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a Mountain and Struck
the river Several miles down, at which place the Indians had Encamped two
days before, we Proceeded on Down the River which is 30 yds. wide Shallow
& Stoney. Crossing it Several times & Encamped in a Small bottom
on the right side. rained this evening nothing to eate but berries, our
flour out, and but little Corn, the hunters killed 2 pheasents only — all
our horses purchased of the oote lash Shutes we Secured well for fear of
their leaveing of us, and watched them all night for fear of their leaving
us or the Indians prosuing & Steeling them.
[Clark, September 7, 1805]
September 7th Satturday 1805 A Cloudy & rainie Day the greater Part of
the Day dark & Drisley we proceedd on down the river thro a Vallie
passed Several Small Runs on the right & 3 creeks on the left The
Vallie from 1 to 2 miles wide the Snow top mountains to our left, open
hilley Countrey on the right. Saw 2 horses left by the Indians Those
horses were as wild a Elk. One of our hunters Came up this morning without
his horse, in the course of the night the horse broke loose & Cleared
out — we did not make Camp untill dark, for the want of a good place,
one of our hunters did not join us this evening. he haveing killed an elk
packed his horses & could not overtake us
[Clark, September 8, 1805]
September 8th Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning Set out early and proceeded on
through an open vallie for 23 miles passed 4 Creeks on the right Some runs
on the left, The bottoms as also the hills Stoney bad land. Some pine on
the Creeks and mountains, an partial on the hills to the right hand Side.
two of our hunters came up with us at 12 oClock with an Elk, & Buck — the
wind from the N. W. & Cold. The foot of the Snow mountains approach
the River on the left Side. Some Snow on The mountain to the right also
proceeded on down the Vallie which is pore Stoney land and encamped on the
right Side of the river a hard rain all the evening we are all Cold and
wet. on this part of the river on the head of Clarks River I observe great
quantities of a peculiar Sort of Prickly peare grow in Clusters ovel &
about the Size of a Pigions egge with Strong Thorns which is So birded as
to draw the Pear from the Cluster after penetrateing our feet. Drewyer
killed a Deer. I killed a prarie fowl we found 2 mears and a Colt the
mears were lame, we ventered to let our late purchase of horses loose to
night
[Lewis, September 9, 1805]
Monday September 9th 1805. Set out at 7 A M. this morning and proceeded
down the Flathead river leaving it on our left, the country in the valley
of this river is generally a prarie and from five to 6 miles wide the
growth is almost altogether pine principally of the longleafed kind, with
some spruce and a kind of furr resembleing the scotch furr. near the
wartercourses we find a small proportion of the narrow leafed cottonwood
some redwood honeysuckle and rosebushes form the scant proportion of
underbrush to be seen. at 12 we halted on a small branch which falls in to
the river on the E. side, where we breakfasted on a scant proportion of
meat which we had reserved from the hunt of yesterday added to three geese
which one of our hunters killed this morning. two of our hunters have
arrived, one of them brought with him a redheaded woodpecker of the large
kind common to the U States. this is the first of the kind I have seen
since I left the Illinois. just as we were seting out Drewyer arrived with
two deer. we continued our rout down the valley about 4 miles and crossed
the river; it is hear a handsome stream about 100 yards wide and affords a
considerable quantity of very clear water, the banks are low and it's bed
entirely gravel. the stream appears navigable, but from the circumstance
of their being no sammon in it I believe that there must be a considerable
fall in it below. our guide could not inform us where this river
discharged itself into the columbia river, he informed us that it
continues it's course along the mountains to the N. as far as he knew it
and that not very distant from where we then were it formed a junction
with a stream nearly as large as itself which took it's rise in the
mountains near the Missouri to the East of us and passed through an
extensive valley generally open prarie which forms an excellent pass to
the Missouri. the point of the Missouri where this Indian pass intersects
it, is about 30 miles above the gates of the rocky mountain, or the place
where the valley of the Missouri first widens into an extensive plain
after entering the rockey mountains. the guide informed us that a man
might pass to the missouri from hence by that rout in four days. we
continued our rout down the W. side of the river about 5 miles further and
encamped on a large creek which falls in on the West as our guide informes
that we should leave the river at this place and the weather appearing
settled and fair I determined to halt the next day rest our horses and
take some scelestial Observations. we called this Creek Travellers rest.
it is about 20 yards wide a fine bould clear runing stream the land
through which we passed is but indifferent a could white gravley soil. we
estimate our journey of this day at 19 M.
[Clark, September 9, 1805]
September 9th Monday 1805 a fair morning Set out early and proceeded on
thro a plain as yesterday down the valley Crossed a large Scattering Creek
on which Cotton trees grew at 11/2 miles, a Small one at 10 miles, both
from the right, the main river at 15 miles & Encamped on a large Creek
from the left which we call Travelers rest Creek. killed 4 deer & 4
Ducks & 3 prarie fowls. day fair Wind N. W. See Suplement
[Lewis, September 10, 1805]
Tuesday September 10th 1805. The morning being fair I sent out all the
hunters, and directed two of them to procede down the river as far as it's
junction with the Eastern fork which heads near the missouri, and return
this evening. this fork of the river we determined to name the Valley
plain river. I think it most probable that this river continues it's
course along the rocky Mts. Northwardly as far or perhaps beyond the
scources of Medecine river and then turning to the West falls into the
Tacootchetessee. The Minetares informed us that there was a large river
west of, and at no great distance from the sources of Medecine river,
which passed along the Rocky Mountains from S. to N.this evening one of
our hunters returned accompanyed by three men of the Flathead nation whom
he had met in his excurtion up travellers rest Creek. on first meeting him
the Indians were allarmed and prepared for battle with their bows and
arrows, but he soon relieved their fears by laying down his gun and
advancing towards them. the Indians were mounted on very fine horses of
which the Flatheads have a great abundance; that is, each man in the
nation possesses from 20 to a hundred head. our guide could not speake the
language of these people but soon engaged them in conversation by signs or
jesticulation, the common language of all the Aborigines of North America,
it is one understood by all of them and appears to be sufficiently copious
to convey with a degree of certainty the outlines of what they wish to
communicate. in this manner we learnt from these people that two men which
they supposed to be of the Snake nation had stolen 23 horses from them and
that they were in pursuit of the theaves. they told us they were in great
hast, we gave them some boiled venison, of which the eat sparingly. the
sun was now set, two of them departed after receiving a few small articles
which we gave them, and the third remained, having agreed to continue with
us as a guide, and to introduce us to his relations whom he informed us
were numerous and resided in the plain below the mountains on the columbia
river, from whence he said the water was good and capable of being
navigated to the sea; that some of his relation were at the sea last fall
and saw an old whiteman who resided there by himself and who had given
them some handkerchiefs such as he saw in our possession. — he said it
would require five sleeps wich is six days travel, to reach his relations.
the Flatheads are a very light coloured people of large stature and comely
form.
[Clark, September 10, 1805]
September 10th Tuesday 1805 A fair morning Concluded to Delay to day and
make Some observations, as at this place the rout which we are to prosue
will pass up the Travelers rest Creek, The day proved fair and we took
equal altitudes & Some Inner observations. The Latd. 46° 48' 28" as
the guide report that no game is to be found on our rout for a long ways,
ads an addition to the cause of our delay to precure Some meat, despatched
all our hunters in different directions, to hunt the Deer which is the
only large game to be found they killed 4 deer a Beaver & 3 Grouse
which was divided, one of the hunters Colter, met with 3 Tushapaw Indians
who were in pursuit of 2 Snake Indians that bade taken from ther Camps on
the head of Kooskooske River 21 horses, Those Indians came with Colter to
our Camp & informed by Signs of their misfortune & the rout to
ther villages &c. &c. one of them Concluded to return with us. we
gave them a ring fish hook & tied a pece of ribin in the hare of each
which appeared to please them verry much, Cap Lewis gave them a Steel
& a little Powder to make fire, after eating 2 of them proceeded on in
pursute of their horses. men all much engaged preparing mockersons &c.
&c. The Countrey about this place is already described in that above.
[Clark, September 11, 1805]
September 11th Wednesday 1805 A fair morning wind from the N W we Set out
at 3 oClock and proceeded on up the Travelers rest Creek, accompanied by
the flat head or Tushapaws Indians about 7 miles below this Creek a large
fork comes in from the right and heads up against the waters of the
Missouri below the Three forks, this river has extensive Vallies of open
leavel land, "and passes in its Whole Course thro a Valie" they call it
our Guide tels us a fine large roade passes up this river to the Missouri — The
loss of 2 of our horses detained us util. 3 oClock. P.M. our Flathead
Indian being restless thought proper to leave us and proceed on alone,
Sent out the hunters to hunt in advance as usial. (we have Selected 4 of
the best hunters to go in advance to hunt for the party. This arrangement
has been made long sinc) we Proceeded on up the Creek on the right Side
thro a narrow valie and good road for 7 miles and Encamped at Some old
Indian Lodges, nothing killed this evening hills on the right high &
ruged, the mountains on the left high & Covered with Snow. The day
Verry worm
[Clark, September 12, 1805]
September 12th Thursday 1805 a white frost Set out at 7 oClock &
proceeded on up the Creek, passed a Fork on the right on which I saw near
an old Indian encampment a Swet house Covered wthh earth, at 2 miles
assended a high hill & proceeded through a hilley and thickly timbered
Countrey for 9 miles & on the Right of the Creek, passing Several
branches from the right of fine clear water and Struck at a fork at which
place the road forks, one passing up each fork. The Timber is Short &
long leaf Pine Spruce Pine & fur. The road through this hilley
Countrey is verry bad passing over hills & thro Steep hollows, over
falling timber &c. &c. continued on & passed Some most
intolerable road on the Sides of the Steep Stoney mountains, which might
be avoided by keeping up the Creek which is thickly covered with under
groth & falling timber Crossed a mountain 8 miles with out water &
encamped on a hill Side on the Creek after Decending a long Steep
mountain, Some of our Party did not git up untill 10 oClock P M. I mad
camp at 8 on this roade & particularly on this Creek the Indians have
pealed a number of Pine for the under bark which they eate at certain
Seasons of the year, I am told in the Spring they make use of this bark
our hunters Killed only one Pheasent this after noon. Party and horses
much fatigued.
[Clark, September 13, 1805]
September 13th Wednesday 1805 a cloudy morning Capt Lewis and one of our
guides lost their horses, Capt Lewis & 4 men detained to hunt the
horses, I proceeded on with the partey up the Creek at 2 miles passed
Several Springs which I observed the Deer Elk &c. had made roads to,
and below one of the Indians had made a whole to bathe, I tasted this
water and found it hot & not bad tasted The last ____ in further
examonation I found this water nearly boiling hot at the places it Spouted
from the rocks (which a hard Corse Grit, and of great size the rocks on
the Side of the Mountain of the Same texture) I put my finger in the
water, at first could not bare it in a Second-as Several roads led from
these Springs in different derections, my Guide took a wrong road and took
us out of our rout 3 miles through intolerable rout, after falling into
the right road I proceeded on thro tolerabl rout for abt. 4 or 5 miles and
halted to let our horses graze as well as waite for Capt Lewis who has not
yet Come up, The pine Countrey falling timber &c. &c. Continue.
This Creek is verry much darned up with the beaver, but we can See none,
dispatched two men back to hunt Capt Lewis horse, after he came up, and we
proceeded over a mountain to the head of the Creek which we left to our
left and at 6 miles from the place I nooned it, we fell on a Small Creek
from the left which Passed through open glades Some of which 1/2 a mile
wide, we proceeded down this Creek about 2 miles to where the mountains
Closed on either Side crossing the Creek Several times & Encamped.
One Deer & Some Pheasants killed this morning, I shot 4 Pheasents of
the Common Kind except the taile was black. The road over the last
mountain was thick Steep & Stoney as usial, after passing the head of
Travelers rest Creek, the road was verry fine leavel open & firm Some
mountains in view to the S E & S W. Covered with Snow.
[Clark, September 14, 1805]
September 14th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy day in the Valies it rained and
hailed, on the top of the mountains Some Snow fell we Set out early and
Crossed a high mountn on the right of the Creek for 6 miles to the forks
of the Glade Creek the right hand fork which falls in is about the Size of
the other, we Crossed to the left Side at the foks, and Crossd a verry
high Steep mountain for 9 miles to a large fork from the left which
appears to head in the Snow toped mountains Southerley and S. E. we
Crossd. Glade Creek above its mouth, at a place the Tushepaws or Flat head
Indians have made 2 wears across to Catch Sammon and have but latterly
left the place I could see no fish, and the grass entirely eaten out by
the horses, we proceeded on 2 miles & Encamped opposit a Small Island
at the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river which is at this
place 80 yards wide, Swift and Stoney, here we wer compelled to kill a
Colt for our men & Selves to eat for the want of meat & we named
the South fork Colt killed Creek, and this river we Call Flathead River-
The Mountains which we passed today much worst than yesterday the last
excessively bad & Thickly Strowed with falling timber & Pine Spruc
fur Hackmatak & Tamerack, Steep & Stoney our men and horses much
fatigued, The rain ____
[Clark, September 15, 1805]
Wednesday Septr. 15th 1805 We set out early. the morning Cloudy and
proceeded on Down the right Side of River over Steep points rockey &
buschey as usial for 4 miles to an old Indian fishing place, here the road
leaves the river to the left and assends a mountain winding in every
direction to get up the Steep assents & to pass the emence quantity of
falling timber which had falling from dift. causes i e. fire & wind
and has deprived the Greater part of the Southerley Sides of this mountain
of its gren timber, 4 miles up the mountain I found a Spring and halted
for the rear to come up and to let our horses rest & feed, about 2
hours the rear of the party came up much fatigued & horses more So,
Several horses Sliped and roled down Steep hills which hurt them verry
much The one which Carried my desk & Small trunk Turned over &
roled down a mountain for 40 yards & lodged against a tree, broke the
Desk the horse escaped and appeared but little hurt Some others verry much
hurt, from this point I observed a range of high mountains Covered with
Snow from S E. to S W with Their top bald or void of timber. after two
hours delay we proceeded on up the mountain Steep & ruged as usial,
more timber near the top, when we arrived at the top As we Conceved we
could find no water and Concluded to Camp and make use of the Snow we
found on the top to cook the remnt. of our Colt & make our Supe,
evening verry Cold and Cloudy. Two of our horses gave out, pore and too
much hurt to proceed on and left in the rear — nothing killed to day
except 2 Phests.
From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in every direction
as far as I could See. with the greatest exertion we Could only make 12
miles up this mountain and encamped on the top of the mountain near a Bank
of old Snow about 3 feet deep lying on the Northern Side of the mountain
and in Small banks on the top & leavel parts of the mountain, we
melted the Snow to drink, and Cook our horse flesh to eat.
[Clark, September 16, 1805]
Saturday Septr. 16th 1805 began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and
Continud all day the Snow in The morning 4 Inches deep on The old Snow,
and by night we found it from 6 to 8 Inches deep I walked in front to keep
the road and found great dificuelty in keeping it as in maney places the
Snow had entirely filled up the track, and obliged me to hunt Several
minits for the track at 12 oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to
worm & dry our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and
graze a little on Some long grass which I observed, (on) The South Steep
hills Side & falling timber Continue to day, and a thickly timbered
Countrey of 8 different kinds of pine, which are So covered with Snow,
that in passing thro them we are continually covered with Snow, I have
been wet and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was
at one time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin mockersons which I
wore, after a Short delay in the middle of the Day, I took one man and
proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to a Small branch passing to
the right, halted and built fires for the party agains their arrival which
was at Dusk verry cold and much fatigued we Encamped at this Branch in a
thickly timbered bottom which was Scercely large enough for us to lie
leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt which we all
Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.
I saw 4 Black tail Deer to day before we Set out which came up the
mountain and what is Singular Snaped 7 tims at a large buck. it is
Singular as my gun has a Steel frisen and never Snaped 7 times before in
examining her found the flint loose to describe the road of this day would
be a repitition of yesterday excpt the Snow which made it much wors to
proseed as we had in maney places to derect our Selves by the appearence
of the rubbings of the Packs against the trees which have limbs quiet low
and bending downwards
[Clark, September 17, 1805]
Sunday 17th Septr. 1805 Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which
detained us untill one oClock P.M. at which time we Set out the falling
Snow & Snow from the trees which kept us wet all the after noon passed
over Several high ruged Knobs and Several dreans & Springs passing to
the right, & passing on the ridge devideing the waters of two Small
rivers. road excessively bad Snow on the Knobs, no Snow in the vallies
Killed a fiew Pheasents which was not Sufficient for our Supper which
compelled us to kill Something. a coalt being the most useless part of our
Stock he fell a Prey to our appetites. The after part of the day fare, we
made only 10 miles to day two horses fell & hurt themselves very much.
we Encamped on the top of a high Knob of the mountain at a run passing to
the left. we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the road
[Lewis, September 18, 1805]
Wednesday September 18th 1805. Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head
with six hunters. there being no game in these mountains we concluded it
would be better for one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the
leavel country a head and there hunt and provide some provision while the
other remained with and brought on the party the latter of these was my
part; accordingly I directed the horses to be gotten up early being
determined to force my march as much as the abilities of our horses would
permit. the negligence of one of the party Willard who had a spare horse
not attending to him and bringing him up last evening was the cause of our
detention this morning untill 1/2 after 8 A M when we set out. I sent
willard back to serch for his horse, and proceeded on with the party at
four in the evening he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18 miles
this day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we suffered for
water this day passing one rivulet only; we wer fortunate in finding water
in a steep raviene about 1/2 maile from our camp. this morning we finished
the remainder of our last coult. we dined & suped on a skant
proportion of portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a little bears oil
and about 20 lbs. of candles form our stock of provision, the only
recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is but a poor
dependance in our present situation where there is nothing upon earth
exept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small grey Squirrels, and a
blue bird of the vulter kind about the size of a turtle dove or jay bird.
our rout lay along the ridge of a high mountain course S. 20 W. 18 in.
used the snow for cooking.
[Clark, September 18, 1805]
Monday 18th Septr. 1805 a fair morning cold I proceded on in advance with
Six hunters to try and find deer or Something to kill we passed over a
countrey Similar to the one of yesterday more falling timber passed
Several runs & Springs passing to the right from the top of a high
part of the mountain at 20 miles I had a view of an emence Plain and
leavel Countrey to the S W. & West at a great distance a high mountain
in advance beyond the Plain, Saw but little Sign of deer and nothing else,
much falling timber, made 32 miles and Encamped on a bold running Creek
passing to the left which I call Hungery Creek as at that place we had
nothing to eate. I halted only one hour to day to let our horses feed on
Grass and rest
[Lewis, September 19, 1805]
Thursday September 19th 1805. Set out this morning a little after sun rise
and continued our rout about the same course of yesterday or S. 20 W. for
6 miles when the ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable joy
discovered a large tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and
widening as it appeared to extend to the W. through that plain the Indian
informed us that the Columbia river, in which we were in surch run. this
plain appeared to be about 60 Miles distant, but our guide assured us that
we should reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country, our
only hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the party
already reduced and much weakened for the want of food. the country is
thickly covered with a very heavy growth of pine of which I have
ennumerated 8 distinct species. after leaving the ridge we asscended and
decended several steep mountains in the distance of 6 miles further when
we struck a Creek about 15 yards wide our course being S. 35 W. we
continued our rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards passing 2
of it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st at the place we struck
the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was excessively
dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path generally on the
side of steep precipice, from which in many places if ether man or horse
were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in pieces. Fraziers
horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled with his load near a
hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that the horse was killed
but to our astonishment when the load was taken off him he arose to his
feet & appeared to be but little injured, in 20 minutes he proceeded
with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape I ever witnessed, the
hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular and broken by large
irregular and broken rocks. the course of this Creek upwards due W. we
encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little raviene, having traveled 18
miles over a very bad road. we took a small quantity of portable soup, and
retired to rest much fatiegued. several of the men are unwell of the
disentary. brakings out, or irruptions of the Skin, have also been common
with us for some time.
[Clark, September 19, 1805]
Tuesday 19th Septr. 1805 Set out early proceeded on up the Creek passing
through a Small glade at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I
derected him killed and hung up for the party after takeing a brackfast
off for our Selves which we thought fine after Brackfast proceed on up the
Creek two miles & left it to our right passed over a mountain, and the
heads of branch of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through
much falling timber (which caused our road of to day to be double the
derect distance on the Course) Struck a large Creek passing to our left
which I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to our left & passed over a
mountain bad falling timber to a Small Creek passing to our left and
Encamped. I killed 2 Pheasents, but fiew birds Blue jay, Small white
headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks. road bad.
[Lewis, September 20, 1805]
Friday September 20th 1805. This morning my attention was called to a
species of bird which I had never seen before. It was reather larger than
a robbin, tho much it's form and action. the colours were a blueish brown
on the back the wings and tale black, as wass a stripe above the croop 3/4
of an inch wide in front of the neck, and two others of the same colour
passed from it's eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the
head, neck brest and belley and butts of the wing were of a fine yellowish
brick reed. it was feeding on the buries of a species of shoemake or ash
which grows common in country & which I first observed on 2d of this
month. I have also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I
believe to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue shining
colour with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale, it feeds
on flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is cha-ah, cha-ah. it is about
the size of a pigeon; and in shape and action resembles the jay bird.
another bird of very similar genus, the note resembling the mewing of the
cat, with a white head and a light blue colour is also common, as are a
black species of woodpecker about the size of the lark woodpecker Three
species of Pheasants, a large black species, with some white feathers
irregularly scattered on the brest neck and belley a smaller kind of a
dark uniform colour with a red stripe above the eye, and a brown and
yellow species that a good deel resembles the phesant common to the
Atlantic States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock in
consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses. we had proceeded
about 2 miles when we found the greater part of a horse which Capt Clark
had met with and killed for us. he informed me by note that he should
proceed as fast as possible to the leavel country which lay to the S. W.
of us, which we discovered from the hights of the mountains on the 19th
there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at one oclock we halted and
made a hearty meal on our horse beef much to the comfort of our hungry
stomachs. here I larnt that one of the Packhorses with his load was
missing and immediately dispatched Baptiest Lapage who had charge of him,
to surch for him. he returned at 3 OC. without the horse. The load of the
horse was of considerable value consisting of merchandize and all my stock
of winter cloathing. I therefore dispatched two of my best woodsmen in
surch of him, and proceeded with the party. Our rout lay through a thick
forrest of large pine the general course being S. 25 W. and distance about
15 miles. our road was much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in
the evening we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little grass for our
horses, and at a distance from water. however we obtained as much as
served our culinary purposes and suped on our beef. the soil as you leave
the hights of the mountains becomes gradually more fertile. the land
through which we passed this evening is of an excellent quality tho very
broken, it is a dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in large
masses above the earth in many places. saw the hucklebury, honeysuckle,
and alder common to the Atlantic states, also a kind of honeysuckle which
bears a white bury and rises about 4 feet high not common but to the
western side of the rockey mountains. a growth which resembles the choke
cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a sweetish taste, it
rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in thick clumps. the
Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence size, being from 2 to 6
feet in diameter.
[Clark, September 20, 1805]
Wednesday 20th September 1805 I Set out early and proceeded on through a
Countrey as ruged as usial passed over a low mountain into the forks of a
large Creek which I kept down 2 miles and assended a Steep mountain
leaveing the Creek to our left hand passed the head of Several dreans on a
divideing ridge, and at 12 miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine
Countrey proceeded on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a
Small Plain in which I found maney Indian lodges, at the distance of 1
mile from the lodges I met 3 boys, when they Saw me ran and hid themselves
searched found gave them Small pieces of ribin & Sent them forward to
the village a man Came out to meet me with;great Caution & Conducted
us to a large Spacious Lodge which he told me (by Signs) was the Lodge of
his great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous with all the Warriers of
the nation to war on a South West derection & would return in 15 or 18
days. the fiew men that were left in the Village aged, great numbers of
women geathered around me with much apparent Signs of fear, and apr.
pleased they gave us a Small piece of Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon
beries & roots in different States, Some round and much like an onion
which they call quamash the Bread or Cake is called Passhe-co Sweet, of
this they make bread & Supe they also gave us the bread made of this
root all of which we eate hartily, I gave them a fiew Small articles as
preasents, and proceeded on with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the
Same Plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and continued with
them all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double lodges, but
fiew men a number of women & children; They call themselves Cho
pun-nish or Pierced Noses; " their dialect appears verry different from
the Tushapaws altho origneally the Same people" They are darker than the
Tushapaws Their dress Similar, with more beads white & blue
principally, brass & Copper in different forms, Shells and ware their
haire in the Same way. they are large Portley men Small women &
handsom fetued Emence quantity of the quawmash or Pas-shi-co root gathered
& in piles about the plains, those roots grow much an onion in marshey
places the seed are in triangular Shell on the Stalk. they Sweat them in
the following manner i. e. dig a large hole 3 feet deep Cover the bottom
with Split wood on the top of which they lay Small Stones of about 3 or 4
Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the whole on fire
which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished they lay grass
& mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry grass which Supports the
Pash-Shi-co root a thin Coat of the Same grass is laid on the top, a Small
fire is kept when necessary in the Center of the kite &c.
I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the fish &
roots too freely. Sent out the hunters they killed nothing Saw Some Signs
of deer.
[Lewis, September 21, 1805]
Saturday September 21st 1805. We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk.
in consequence of not being able to collect our horses. we then set out
and proceeded along the ridge on which we had encamped, leaving which at
11/2 we passed a large creek runing to the left just above it's junction
with another which run parrallel with and on the left of our road before
we struck the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom of
this creek we proceeded about 21/2 miles when bearing to the right we
passed a broken country heavily timbered great quantities of which had
fallen and so obstructed our road that it was almost impracticable to
proceed in many places. though these hills we proceeded about 5 Ms. when
we passed a small creek on which Capt Clark encamped on the 19th passing
this creek we continued our rout 5 Ms thro a similar country when we
struck a large creek at the forks, passed the Northen branch and continued
down it on the West side 1 mile and encamped in a small open bottom where
there was tolerable food for our horses. I directed the horses to be
hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined to make a forced
march tomorrow in order to reach if possible the open country. we killed a
few Pheasants, and I killd a prarie woolf which together with the ballance
of our horse beef and some crawfish which we obtained in the creek enabled
us to make one more hearty meal, not knowing where the next was to be
found. the Arborvita increases in quantity and size. I saw several sticks
today large enough to form eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in length. — I
find myself growing weak for the want of food and most of the men complain
of a similar deficiency and have fallen off very much. the general course
of this day S 30 W 15M.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Septr. 21st Saturday 1805 a fine morning Sent out all the hunters early in
different directions to Kill Something and delayed with the Indians to
prevent Suspicion & to acquire as much information as possible. one of
them Drew me a Chart of the river & nations below informed of one
falls below which the white men lived from whome they got white beeds
cloth &c. &c. The day proved warm, 2 Chifs of Bands visited me to
day — the hunters all returned without any thing, I collected a horse
load of roots & 3 Sammon & Sent R Fields with one Indian to meet
Capt Lewis at 4 oClock Set out with the other men to the river, passed
thro a fine Pine Country decended a Steep ruged hill verry long to a Small
river which comes from our left and I suppose it to be ____ River passed
down the river 2 miles on a Steep hill side at four oClock P.M. arrived at
a camp of 5 Squars a boy & 2 Children those people were glad to See us
& gave us drid Sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries
of the north & Seen white men, our guide called the Chief who was
fishing on the other Side of the river, whome I found a Cherfull man of
about 65 I gave him a Medal.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Thursday 21st Septr. 1805 A fine morning Sent out all the hunters in
different directions to hunt deer, I myself delayd with the Chief to
prevent Suspission and to Collect by Signs as much information as possible
about the river and Countrey in advance. The Cheif drew me a kind of chart
of the river, and informed me that a greater Cheif than himself was
fishing at the river half a days march from his village called the twisted
hare, and that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long
distance below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the other
from the right the river passed thro'gh the mountains at which place was a
great fall of the water passing through the rocks, at those falls white
people lived from whome they preceured the white Beeds & Brass &c.
which the womin wore; a Chief of another band visit me to day and Smoked a
pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little Tobacco to
those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any thing, I purchased as
much Provisions as I could with what fiew things I chaned to have in my
Pockets, Such a Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one man R.
Fields with an Indian to meet Capt. Lewis, and at 4 oClock P M. Set out to
the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river to the village,
whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief of one of the men, to polit
me to the Camp of the twisted hare we did not arrive at the Camp of the
Twisted hare but oppost, untill half past 11 oClock P M. found at this
Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the Chief who was
Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in the river, he Soon joind me, I
found him a Chearfull man with apparant Siencerity, I gave him a medal
&c. and Smoked untill 1 oClock a.m. and went to Sleep. The Countrey
from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich butifull Pine
Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered with grass — The
weather verry worm after decending into the low Countrey,- the river hills
are verry high & Steep, Small bottoms to this little river which is
Flat head & is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is the one we
killed the first Coalt on near a fishing were I am verry Sick to day and
puke which relive me.
[Lewis, September 22, 1805]
Sunday September 22cd 1805. Notwithstanding my positive directions to
hubble the horses last evening one of the men neglected to comply. he
plead ignorance of the order. this neglect however detained us untill 1/2
after eleven OCk at which time we renewed our march, our course being
about west. we had proceeded about two and a half miles when we met Reubin
Fields one of oure hunters, whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us
with some dryed fish and roots that he had procured from a band of
Indians, whose lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered the
party to halt for the purpose of taking some refreshment. I divided the
fish roots and buries, and was happy to find a sufficiency to satisfy
compleatly all our appetites. Fields also killed a crow after refreshing
ourselves we proceeded to the village due West 71/2 Miles where we arrived
at 5 OCk. in the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered,
the larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last 3 miles was
broken and decending the pleasure I now felt in having tryumphed over the
rocky Mountains and decending once more to a level and fertile country
where there was every rational hope of finding a comfortable subsistence
for myself and party can be more readily conceived than expressed, nor was
the flattering prospect of the final success of the expedition less
pleasing. on our approach to the village which consisted of eighteen
lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring woods on horseback with
their children, a circumstance I did not expect as Capt. Clark had
previously been with them and informed them of our pacific intentions
towards them and also the time at which we should most probably arrive.
the men seemed but little concerned, and several of them came to meet us
at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
September 22nd Sunday 1805 a fine morning, I proceed on down the little
river to about 11/2 a mile & found the Chif in a Canoe Comeing to meet
me I got into his Canoe & Crossed over to his Camp on a Small Island
at a rapid Sent out the hunters leaving one to take care of the baggage,
& after eating a part of a Samn. I Set out on my return to meet Capt.
Lewis with the Chief & his Son at 2 miles met Shields with 3 Deer, I
took a Small peice & Changed for his horse which was fresh &
proced on this horse threw me 3 times which hurt me Some. at Dark met Capt
Lewis Encamped at the first Village men much fatigued & reduced, the
Supply which I sent by R Flds. was timely, they all eate hartily of roots
& fish, 2 horses lost 1 Days journey back
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
Friday 22nd Septr. 1805 a verry worm day the hunters Shild killed 3 Deer
this morning. I left them on the Island and Set out with the Chief &
his Son on a young horse for the Village at which place I expected to meet
Capt Lewis this young horse in fright threw himself & me 3 times on
the Side of a Steep hill & hurt my hip much, Cought a Coalt which we
found on the roade & I rode it for Several miles untill we saw the
Chiefs horses, he cought one & we arrived at his Village at Sunset,
& himself and myslf walked up to the 2d Village where I found Capt
Lewis & the party Encamped, much fatigued, & hungery, much
rejoiced to find something to eate of which They appeared to partake
plentifully. I cautioned them of the Consequences of eateing too much
&c.
The planes appeared covered with Spectators viewing the White men and the
articles which we had, our party weacke and much reduced in flesh as well
as Strength, The horse I left hung up they receved at a time they were in
great want, and the Supply I Sent by R. Fields proved timely and gave
great encouragement to the party with Captn. Lewis. he lost 3 horses one
of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians Stole out of R. F. Shot
pouch his knife wipers Compas & Steel, which we Could not precure from
them, we attempted to have Some talk with those people but Could not for
the want of an Interpreter thro which we Could Speake, we were Compelled
to converse Altogether by Signs — I got the Twisted hare to draw the
river from his Camp down which he did with great cherfullness on a white
Elk Skin, from the 1s fork which is a few seven miles below, to the large
fork on which the So So ne or Snake Indians fish, is South 2 Sleeps; to a
large river which falls in on the N W. Side and into which The Clarks
river empties itself is 5 Sleeps from the mouth of that river to the falls
is 5 Sleeps at the falls he places Establishments of white people &c.
and informs that great numbers of Indians reside on all those foks as well
as the main river; one other Indian gave me a like account of the
Countrey, Some few drops of rain this evening. I precured maps of the
Country & river with the Situation of Indians, To come from Several
men of note Seperately which varied verey little.
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Septr. 23rd Sunday Traded with the Indians, made 3 Chiefs and gave them
meadels & Tobacco & Handkerchif & knives, and a flag &
left a Flag & hand kerches for the great Chief when he returns from
war, in the evening proceeded to the 2d Vilg 2 miles, a hard wind and rain
at dark, traded for Some root Bread & Skins to make Shirts. hot day
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Saturday 23rd Septr 1805. We assembled the principal Men as well as the
Chiefs and by Signs informed them where we came from where bound our wish
to inculcate peace and good understanding between all the red people &c.
which appeared to Satisfy them much, we then gave 2 other Medals to other
Chefs of bands, a flag to the twisted hare, left a flag & Handkerchief
to the grand Chief gave, a Shirt to the Twisted hare & a knife &
Handkerchif with a Small pece of Tobacco to each. Finding that those
people gave no provisions to day we deturmined to purchase with our Small
articles of merchindize, accord we purchased all we could, Such as roots
dried, in bread, & in ther raw State, Berris of red Haws & Fish
and in the evening Set out and proceeded on to the 2d Village 2 miles
dist. where we also purchased a few articles all amounting to as much as
our weak horses Could Carry to the river Capt. Lewis & 2 men verry
Sick this evening, my hip verry Painfull, the men trade a few old tin
Canisters for dressed Elk Skin to make themselves Shirts, at dark a hard
wind from The S W accompaned with rain which lasted half an hour. The
twisted hare envited Capt Lewis & myself to his lodge which was nothin
more than Pine bushes & bark, and gave us Some broiled dried Salmon to
eate, great numbers about us all night at this village the women were
busily employed in gathering and drying the Pas-she co root of which they
had great quantites dug in piles
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Septr. 24th Monday 1805 Set out early for the river and proceeded on the
Same road I had prevsly gorn to the Island at which place I had found the
Chief & formed a Camp several 8 or 9 men Sick, Capt Lewis Sick all
Complain of a Lax & heaviness at the Stomack, I gave rushes Pills to
Several hot day maney Indians & thier gangues of horses follow us hot
day Hunter had 5 Deer
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Sunday 24th Septr. 1805 a fine morning collected our horses despatched J.
Colter back to hunt the horses lost in the mountains & bring up Some
Shot left behind, and at 10 oClock we all Set out for the river and
proceeded on by the Same rout I had previously traveled, and at Sunset We
arrived at the Island on which I found the Twisted hare and formed a Camp
on a large Island a littl below, Capt Lewis Scercely able to ride on a
jentle horse which was furnishd by the Chief, Several men So unwell that
they were Compelled to lie on the Side of the road for Some time others
obliged to be put on horses. I gave rushes Pills to the Sick this evening.
Several Indians follow us.
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Septr. 25th I with th Chief & 2 young men went down to hunt timber for
Canoes — proceeded on down to the forks 4 miles N 70° W 2 miles S.
75°W 2 miles, halted young men Cought 6 Sammon, the forks nearly the Same
Size, Crossed the South fork & found Timber large Pine in a bottom
Proceeded up the South Side 3 parts of Party Sick Capt Lewis verry Sick
hot day
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Monday 25th of September 1805 a verry hot day most of the Party
Complaining and 2 of our hunters left here on the 22nd verry Sick they had
killed only two Bucks in my absence. I Set out early with the Chief and 2
young men to hunt Some trees Calculated to build Canoes, as we had
previously deturmined to proceed on by water, I was furnished with a horse
and we proceeded on down the river Crossed a Creek at 1 mile from the
right verry rockey which I call rock dam Creek & Passed down on the N
side of the river to a fork from the North which is about the Same Size
and affords about the Same quantity of water with the other forks we
halted about an hour, one of the young men took his guilt and killed 6
fine Salmon two of them were roasted and we eate, two Canoes Came up
loaded with the furnitur & provisions of 2 families, those Canoes are
long Stedy and without much rake I crossed the South fork and proceeded up
on the South Side, the most of the way thro a narrow Pine bottom in which
I Saw fine timber for Canoes one of the Indian Canoes with 2 men with
Poles Set out from the forks at the Same time I did and arrived at our
Camp on the Island within 15 minits of the Same time I did, not
withstanding 3 rapids which they had to draw the Canoe thro in the
distance, when I arrived at Camp found Capt Lewis verry Sick, Several men
also verry Sick, I gave Some Salts & Tarter emetic, we deturmined to
go to where the best timbr was and there form a Camp
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Septr. 26th Set out early and proceeded down the river to the bottom on
the S Side opposit the forks & formed a Camp had ax handled ground
&c. our axes all too Small, Indians caught Sammon & Sold us, 2
Chiefs & thir families came & camped near us, Several men bad,
Capt Lewis Sick I gave Pukes Salts &c. to Several, I am a little
unwell. hot day
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th Septr. 1805 Set out early and proceeded on down the river to
a bottom opposit the forks of the river on the South Side and formed a
Camp. Soon after our arrival a raft Came down the N. fork on which was two
men, they came too, I had the axes distributed and handled and men
apotned. ready to commence building canoes on tomorrow, our axes are Small
& badly Calculated to build Canoes of the large Pine, Capt Lewis Still
very unwell, Several men taken Sick on the way down, I administered Salts
Pils Galip, Tarter emetic &c. I feel unwell this evening, two Chiefs
& their families follow us and encamp near us, they have great numbers
of horses. This day proved verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of the
Indians
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
Septr. 27th Thursday 1805 Set all the men able to work abt. building
Canoes, Colter returned and found one horse & the Canister of Shot
left in the mountains he also killed a Deer 1/2 of which he brought hot
day — men Sick
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
27th Septr. Wednesday 1805 all the men able to work comened building 5
Canoes, Several taken Sick at work, our hunters returned Sick without
meet. J. Colter returned he found only one of the lost horses, on his way
killed a deer, half of which he gave the Indians the other proved
nourishing to the Sick The day verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of them
Several Indians Come up the river from a Camp Some distance below Capt
Lewis very Sick nearly all the men Sick. our Shoshonee Indian Guide
employed himself makeing flint points for his arrows
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Septr. 28th Friday Several men Sick all at work which is able, nothing
killed to day. Drewyer Sick maney Indians visit us worm day
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th Septr. 1805 Our men nearly all Complaining of ther bowels, a
heaviness at the Stomach & Lax, Some of those taken first getting
better, a number of Indians about us gazeing &c. &c. This day
proved verry worm and Sultery, nothing killed men complaining of their
diat of fish & roots. all that is able working at the Canoes, Several
Indians leave us to day, the raft continue on down the river, one old man
informed us that he had been to the White peoples fort at the falls &
got white beeds &c his Story was not beleved as he Could explain
nothing.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Septr. 29th Satterday Drewyer killed 2 deer Collins 1 der men Conte Sickly
at work all able to work.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th Septr. 1805 a Cool morning wind from the S. W. men Sick as
usial, all The men that are able to at work, at the Canoes Drewyer killed
2 Deer Colter killed 1 Deer, the after part of this day worm Cap Lewis
very Sick, and most of the men complaning very much of ther bowels &
Stomach
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Sunday 30th Septr. 1805 Forks a fine morning our men recruting a little
cool, all at work doing Something except 2 which are verry Sick, Great run
of Small duck passing down the river this morning.
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Septr. 30th Saturday (Monday) 1805 a fine fair morning a the men
recruiting a little, all at work which are able. Great number of Small
Ducks pass down the river this morning. maney Indians passing up and down
the river.
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st 1805 Tuesday a cool morning wind from the N. E. I examine
& Dry all our article Cloths &. nothing to eate except Drid fish
verry bad diet Capt Lewis getting much better than for Several days past
Several Indians visit us from the different villages below and on the main
fork S. nothing killed
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st Tuesday 1805 A cool morning wind from the East had Examined
and dried all our clothes and other articles and laid out a Small
assortment of Such articles as those Indians were fond of to trade with
them for Some provisions (they are remarkably fond of Beeds) nothin to
eate except a little dried fish which they men complain of as working of
them as as much as a dost of Salts. Capt Lewis getting much better.
Several Indians visit us from the different tribes below Some from the
main South fork our hunters killed nothing to day worm evening
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
Oct. 2nd 1805 Wednesday dispatch 2 men & an Indian up to the villages
we first Came too to purchase roots fish &c. nothing to eate but
roots. gave a small pice of Tobacco to the Indians, 3 broachs & 2
rings with my Handkerchif divided between 5 of them. I walked on the hills
to hunt to day, Saw only one deer, Could kill nothing day excesively hot
in the river bottom wind North, Burning out the holler of our canoes, men
Something better nothing except a Small Prarie wolf Killed to day, our
Provisions all out except what fiew fish we purchase of the Indians with
us; we kill a horse for the men at work to eate &c. &c.
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
October 2nd Wednesday 1805 Despatched 2 men Frasure & S. Guterich back
to the village with 1 Indian & 6 horses to purchase dried fish, roots
&c. we have nothing to eate but roots, which give the men violent
pains in their bowels after eating much of them. To the Indians who
visited us yesterday I gave divided my Handkerchief between 5 of them,
with a Small piece of tobacco & a pece of riebin & to the 2
principal men each a ring & brooch. I walked out with my gun on the
hills which is verry Steep & high could kill nothing. day hot wind N.
Hunters killed nothing excep a Small Prarie wolf. Provisions all out,
which Compells us to kill one of our horses to eate and make Suep for the
Sick men.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805 Canoe Camp a fair cool morning wind from the
East all our men getting well and at work at the canoes &c.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805 a fine morning cool wind East all our men
getting better in helth, and at work at the Canoes &. The Indians who
visited us from below Set out on their return early. Several others Came
from different directions
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th 1805 Friday This morning is a little cool wind from the East.
displeased an Indian by refuseing to let him have a pice of Tobacco. thre
Inds. from the S. fork visit us Frasur and Guterich return from the
village with fish roots &c. which they purchased
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th Friday 1805 a Cool wind from off the Eastern mountains I
displeased an Indian by refuseing him a pice of Tobacco which he tooke the
liberty to take out of our Sack Three Indians visit us from the Grat River
South of us. The two men Frasure and Guterich return late from the Vllage
with Fish roots &c. which they purchased as our horse is eaten we have
nothing to eate except dried fish & roots which disagree with us verry
much. The after part of this day verry warm. Capt Lewis Still Sick but
able to walk about a little.
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saturday 1805 a Cool morning wind from the East, Collected all
our horses, & Branded them 38 in No. and delivered them to the men who
were to take Charge of them, each of which I gave a Knife & one a
wampom Shell gorget, The Lattd. of this place the mean of 2 observations
is 46° 34' 56.3" North. nothing to eate but dried roots & Dried fish,
Capt Lewis & my Self eate a Supper of roots boiled, which filled us So
full of wind, that we were Scercely able to Breathe all night felt the
effects of it. Lanced 2 Canoes to day one proved a little leakey the other
a verry good one
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saty 1805 Wind Easterley and Cool, had all our horses 38 in
number Collected and branded Cut off their fore top and delivered them to
the 2 brothers and one Son of one of the Chiefs who intends to accompany
us down the river to each of those men I gave a Knife & Some Small
articles &c. they promised to be attentive to our horses untill we
Should return.
Lattitude of this place from the mean of two observations is 46° 34' 56.3"
North
Nothing to eate except dried fish & roots. Capt Lewis & myself
eate a Supper of roots boiled, which Swelled us in Such a manner that we
were Scercely able to breath for Several hours — finished and lanced 2
of our Canoes this evening which proved to be verry good our hunters with
every diligence Could kill nothing. The hills high and ruged and woods too
dry to hunt the deer which is the only game in our neighbourhood. Several
Squars Came with Fish and roots which we purchased of them for Beeds,
which they were fond of — Capt Lewis not So well to day as yesterday
[Clark, October 6, 1805]
October 6th Sunday 1805 A Col Easterley wind which Spring up in the latter
part of the night and Continues untill about 7 or 8 oClock A.M. had all
our Saddles Collected a whole dug and in the night buried them, also a
Canister of powder and a bag of Balls at the place the Canoe which Shields
made was cut from the body of the tree — The Saddles were buried on
the Side of a bend about 1/2 a mile below — all the Canoes finished
this evening ready to be put into the water. I am taken verry unwell with
a paine in the bowels & Stomach, which is certainly the effects of my
diet-which last all night.
The winds blow cold from a little before day untill the Suns gets to Some
hight from the Mountans East as they did from the mountans at the time we
lay at the falls of Missouri from the West The river below this forks is
Called Kos kos keel it is Clear rapid with Shoals or Swift places The open
Countrey Commences a fiew miles below This on each side of the river, on
the Lard Side below the 1st Creek. with a few trees Scattered near the
river. passd maney bad rapids, one Canoe that in which I went in front
Sprung a Leak in passing the 3rd rapid
Set out at 3 oClock P M & proceeded on
[Clark, October 7, 1805]
October 7th Monday 1805 I continu verry unwell but obliged to attend every
thing all the Canoes put into the water and loaded, fixed our Canoes as
well as possible and Set out as we were about to Set out we missd. both of
the Chiefs who promised to accompany us; I also missed my Pipe Tomahawk
which Could not be found.
The after part of the day Cloudy proceded on passed 10 rapids which wer
danjerous the Canoe in which I was Struck a rock and Sprung a leak in the
3rd rapid, we proceeded on 20 miles and Encamped on a Stard point oppost a
run. passed a Creek Small on the Lard. Side at 9 miles, a Short distanc
from the river at 2 feet 4 Inches N. of a dead toped pine Treee had burid
2 Lead Canisters of Powder
Had the Canoes unloaded examined and mended a Small leake which we
discovered in a thin place in her Side passed Several Camps of Indians to
day our Course and distance Shall be given after I get to the forks. &c.which
the Indians Say is the last of the bad water untill we get to the great
falls 10 day below, where the white people live &c. The Lodges are of
Sticks set in a form of roof of a house & covered with mats and Straw
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
8th Octr. 1805 Tuesday a cloudy morning Changed Canoes and buried 2 Lead
canisters of Powder 2 foot 4 In. North of a dead toped pine opposit our
Camp & opposit the mouth of a run after repareing leaks in the Canoes
Sprung Coming over the rapids yesterday Set out at 9 oClock
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
October 8th Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy morning loaded our Canoes which was
unloaded last night and Set out at 9 oClock passed 15 rapids four Islands
and a Creek on the Stard Side at 16 miles just below which one canoe in
which Serjt. Gass was Stearing and was nearle turning over, She Sprung a
leak or Split open on one Side and Bottom filled with water & Sunk on
the rapid, the men, Several of which Could not Swim hung on to the Canoe,
I had one of the other Canoes unloaded & with the assistance of our
Small Canoe and one Indian Canoe took out every thing & toed the empty
Canoe on Shore, one man Tompson a little hurt, every thing wet
perticularly the greater part of our Small Stock of merchindize, had every
thing opened, and two Sentinals put over them to keep off the Indians, who
are enclined to theave haveing Stole Several Small articles those people
appeared disposed to give us every assistance in their power dureing our
distress — We passed Several Encampments of Indians on the Islands and
those near the rapids in which places they took the Salmon, at one of
Those Camps we found our two Chiefs who had promised to accompany us, we
took them on board after the Serimony of Smokeing
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
Octo. 9th all day drying our roots good & articles which got wet in
the Canoe last night. our 2 Snake Indian guides left us without our
knowledge, The Indians troublesom Stole my Spoon which they returned. men
merry at night & Singular acts of a Ind. woman
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
October 9th Wednesday 1805 The morning Cool as usial the greater part of
the day proved to be Cloudy, which was unfavourable for drying our things
&c. which got wet yesterday. In examoning our canoe found that by
putting Knees & Strong peces pined to her Sides and bottom &c. She
Could be made fit for Service in by the time the goods dried, Set 4 men to
work at her, Serjt. Pryor & Gass, Jo Fields & Gibson, others to
Collect rosin, at 1 oClock She was finished Stronger than ever The wet
articles not Sufficiently dried to pack up obliged us to delay another
night dureing the time one man was tradeing for fish for our voyage, at
Dark we were informed that our old guide & his Son had left us and had
been Seen running up the river Several miles above, we Could not account
for the Cause of his leaveing us at this time, without receiving his pay
for the Services he had rendered us, or letting us know anything of his
intention.
we requested the Chief to Send a horseman after our old guide to come back
and recive his pay &c. which he advised us not to do as his nation
would take his things from him before he passed their camps The Indians
and our party were very mery this after noon a woman faind madness &c.
&c. Singular acts of this woman in giveing in Small potions all She
had & if they were not received She would Scarrify her Self in a horid
manner &c. Capt Lewis recovring fast.
a verry worm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to view us as low
as the forks. Two Indians come up in a Canoe, who means to accompany us to
the Great rapids, Could get no observations, worm night The water of the
South fork is of a bluish green colour
[Clark, October 10, 1805]
October 10th Wednesday Thursday a fine Morning loaded and Set out at 7
oClock at 21/2 miles passed a run on the Stard. Side haveing passed 2
Islands and two bad rapids at 3 miles lower passed a Creek on the Lard.
with wide Cotton willow bottoms haveing passed an Island and a rapid an
Indian Camp of three Lodgs below the Creek at 81/2 miles lower we arrived
at the heade of a verry bad riffle at which place we landed near 8 Lodges
of Indians on the Lard Side to view the riffle, haveing passed two Islands
& Six rapids Several of them verry bad-after view'g this riffle two
Canoes were taken over verry well; the third Stuck on a rock which took us
an hour to get her off which was effected without her receving a greater
injurey than a Small Split in her Side which was repared in a Short time,
we purchased fish & dogs of those people, dined and proceeded on- here
we met with an Indian from the falls at which place he Sais he Saw white
people, and expressd an inclination to accompany us, we passd. a fiew
miles above this riffle 2 Lodges and an Indian batheing in a hot bath made
by hot Stones thrown into a pon of water. at this riffle which we Call
ragid rapid took meridian altitude of the Suns upper Limb with Sextt. 74°
26' 0" Latd. produced ____ North at five miles lower and Sixty miles below
the forks arived at a large Southerly fork which is the one we were on
with the Snake or So-So-nee nation (haveing passed 5 rapids) This South
fork or Lewis's River which has two forks which fall into it on the South
the ist Small the upper large and about 2 days march up imediately
parrelal to the first villages we Came to and is called by those Indians
Par-nash-te on this fork a little above its mouth resides a Chief who as
the Indian Say has more horses than he can Count and further Sayeth that
Louises River is navagable about 60 miles up with maney rapids at which
places the Indians have fishing Camps and Lodjes built of an oblong form
with flat ruffs. below the 1st river on the South Side there is ten
established fishing places on the 1st fork which fall in on the South Side
is one fishing place, between that and the Par nash to River, five fishing
places, above two, and one on that river all of the Cho-pun-nish or
Pierced Nose Nation many other Indians reside high up those rivers The
Countrey about the forks is an open Plain on either Side I can observe at
a distance on the lower Stard. Side a high ridge of Thinly timbered
Countrey the water of the South fork-is a greenish blue, the north as
clear as cristial
Imediately in the point is an Indian Cabin & in the South fork a Small
Island, we came to on the Stard. Side below with a view to make some luner
observations the night proved Cloudy and we were disapointed The Indians
Came down all the Couses of this river on each Side on horses to view us
as we were desending, — The man whome we saw at the ruged rapid and
expressed an inclination to accompany us to the great rapids, came up with
his Son in a Small Canoe and procisted in his intentions- worthey of
remark that not one Stick of timber on the river near the forks and but a
fiew trees for a great distance up the River we decended I think Lewis's
River is about 250 yards wide, the Koos koos ke River about 150 yards wide
and the river below the forks about 300 yards wide. a miss understanding
took place between Shabono one of our interpreters, and Jo. & R Fields
which appears to have originated in just — our diet extremely bad
haveing nothing but roots and dried fish to eate, all the Party have
greatly the advantage of me, in as much as they all relish the flesh of
the dogs, Several of which we purchased of the nativs for to add to our
Store of fish and roots &c. &c.
The Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Indians are Stout likeley men, handsom
women, and verry dressey in their way, the dress of the men are a white
Buffalow robe or Elk Skin dressed with Beeds which are generally white,
Sea Shells-i e the Mother of Pirl hung to ther hair & on a pice of
otter Skin about their necks hair Cewed in two parsels hanging forward
over their Sholders, feathers, and different Coloured Paints which they
find in their Countrey Generally white, Green & light Blue. Some fiew
were a Shirt of Dressed Skins and long legins, & Mockersons Painted,
which appears to be their winters dress, with a plat of twisted grass
about their necks.
The women dress in a Shirt of Ibex, or Goat Skins which reach quite down
to their anckles with a girdle, their heads are not ornemented, their
Shirts are ornemented with quilled Brass, Small peces of Brass Cut into
different forms, Beeds, Shells & curios bones &c. The men expose
those parts which are generally kept from view by other nations but the
women are more perticular than any other nation which I have passed in
Screting the parts
Their amusements appear but fiew as their Situation requires the utmost
exertion to prcure food they are generally employed in that pursute, all
the Summer & fall fishing for the Salmon, the winter hunting the deer
on Snow Shoes in the plains and takeing care of ther emence numbers of
horses, & in the Spring cross the mountains to the Missouri to get
Buffalow robes and meet &c. at which time they frequent meet with
their enemies & lose their horses & maney of ther people
Ther disorders are but fiew and those fiew of a Scofelous nature. they
make great use of Swetting. The hot and cold baethes, They are verry
Selfish and Stingey of what they have to eate or ware, and they expect in
return Something for everything give as presents or the Survices which
they doe let it be however Small, and fail to make those returns on their
part.
[Clark, October 11, 1805]
October 11th 1805 a cloudy morning wind from the East We Set out early and
proceeded on passed a rapid at two miles, at 6 miles we came too at Some
Indian lodges and took brackfast, we purchased all the fish we could and
Seven dogs of those people for Stores of Provisions down the river. at
this place I saw a curious Swet house under ground, with a Small whole at
top to pass in or throw in the hot Stones, which those in threw on as much
water as to create the temporature of heat they wished — at 9 mile
passed a rapid at 15 miles halted at an Indian Lodge, to purchase
provisions of which we precred some of the Pash-he-quar roots five dogs
and a few fish dried, after takeing Some dinner of dog &c we proceeded
on. Came to and encamped at 2 Indian Lodges at a great place of fishing
here we met an Indian of a nation near the mouth of this river.
we purchased three dogs and a fiew fish of those Indians, we Passed today
nine rapids all of then great fishing places, at different places on the
river saw Indian houses and Slabs & Spilt timber raised from the
ground being the different parts of the houses of the natives when they
reside on this river for the purpose of fishing at this time they are out
in the Plain on each side of the river hunting the antilope as we are
informed by our Chiefs, near each of those houses we observe Grave yards
picketed, or pieces of wood stuck in permiscuesly over the grave or body
which is Covered with earth, The Country on either Side is an open plain
leavel & fertile after assending a Steep assent of about 200 feet not
a tree of any kind to be Seen on the river The after part of the day the
wind from the S. W. and hard. The day worm.
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th 1805 Saturday a fair cool morning wind from E after
purchasing all the drid fish those people would Spear from their hole in
which they wer buried we Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th Saturday 1805 A fair Cool morning wind from the East. after
purchaseing every Speces of the provisions those Indians could Spare we
Set out and proceeded on at three miles passed four Islands Swift water
and a bad rapid opposit to those Islands on the Lard. Side. at 141/2 miles
passed the mouth of a large Creek on the Lard Side opposit a Small Island
here the Countrey assends with a gentle assent to the high plains, and the
River is 400 yards wide about 1 mile below the Creek on the Same Side took
meridian altitude which gave 72° 30' 00" Latitude produced ____ North in
the afternoon the wind Shifted to the S. W. and blew hard we passed to day
____ rapids Several of them very bad and came to at the head of one (at 30
miles) on the Stard. Side to view it before we attemptd. to dsend through
it. The Indians had told us was verry bad — we found long and
dangerous about 2 miles in length, and maney turns necessary to Stear
Clare of the rocks, which appeared to be in every direction. The Indians
went through & our Small Canoe followed them, as it was late we
deturmined to camp above untill the morning. we passed Several Stoney
Islands today Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any kind a
fiew Hack berry bushes & willows excepted, and but few drift trees to
be found So that fire wood is verry Scerce — The hills or assents from
the water is faced with a dark ruged Stone. The wind blew hard this
evening.
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805 rained a little before day, and all the morning,
a hard wind from the S West untill 9 oClock, the rained Seased & wind
luled, and Capt Lewis with two Canoes Set out & passed down the rapid
The others Soon followed and we passed over this bad rapid Safe. We Should
make more portages if the Season was not So far advanced and time precious
with us
The wife of Shabono our interpetr we find reconsiles all the Indians, as
to our friendly intentions a woman with a party of men is a token of peace
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805 a windey dark raney morning The rain commenced
before day and Continued moderately until) near 12 oClock — we took
all our Canoes through This rapid without any injurey. a little below
passed through another bad rapid at ____ miles passed the Mo. of a large
Creek little river in a Stard. bend, imediately below a long bad rapid; in
which the water is Confined in a Chanel of about 20 yards between rugid
rocks for the distance of a mile and a half and a rapid rockey Chanel for
2 miles above. This must be a verry bad place in high water, here is great
fishing place, the timbers of Several houses piled up, and a number of
wholes of fish, and the bottom appears to have been made use of as a place
of deposit for their fish for ages past, here two Indians from the upper
foks over took us and continued on down on horse back, two others were at
this mouth of the Creek — we passed a rapid about 9 mile lower. at
dusk came to on the Std. Side & Encamped. The two Inds. on horse back
Stayed with us. The Countery Thro which we passed to day is Simlar to that
of yesterday open plain no timber passed Several houses evacuated at
established fishing places, wind hard from The S. W. in the evening and
not very cold
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805 a verry Cool morning wind from the West Set out
at 8 oClock proceeded on
at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned
the men got out on a rock the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She
Sunk the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated all that
Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles
lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c.
&c. and every article wet of which we have great Cause to lament as
all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian
way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which was
in the canoe was tied down, otherwise they must have been lost as the
Canoe turned over we got off the men from the rock toed our canoe on Shore
after takeing out all the Stores &c. we Could & put them out to
dry on the Island on which we found Some wood which was covered with
Stones, this is the Parts of an Indian house, which we used for fire wood,
by the wish of our two Chiefs — Those Chees, one of them was in the
Canoe, Swam in & Saved Some property, The Inds. have buried fish on
this Isld. which we are Cautious not to touch. our Small Canoe & three
Indians in another was out of Sight at the time our missfortune hapined,
and did not join us. wind hard S W.
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805 a Verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool
untill about 12 oClock When it Shifted to the S. W. at 21/2 miles passed a
remarkable rock verry large and resembling the hull of a Ship Situated on
a Lard point at Some distance from the assending Countrey passed rapids at
6 and 9 miles. at 12 miles we Came too at the head of a rapid which the
Indians told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad in
decending three Stern Canoes Stuk fast for Some time on the head of the
rapid and one Struk a rock in the worst part, fortunately all landed Safe
below the rapid which was nearly 3 miles in length. here we dined, and for
the first time for three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing Teel,
after dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before our Stern
Canoe in passing thro a Short rapid opposit the head of an Island, run on
a Smoth rock and turned broad Side, the men got out on the rock all except
one of our Indian Chiefs who Swam on Shore, The Canoe filed and Sunk a
number of articles floated out, Such as the mens bedding clothes &
Skins, the Lodge &c. &c. the greater part of which were cought by
2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd was unloading & Steming the Swift
Current to the relief of the men on the rock who could with much
dificuelty hold the Canoe. however in about an hour we got the men an
Canoe to Shore with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaws Shot pouches Skins
Clothes &c &c. all wet we had every articles exposed to the Sun to
dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is verry Considerable all our
roots was in the Canoe that Sunk, and Cannot be dried Sufficint to Save,
our loose powder was also in the Canoe and is all wett This I think, we
Shall saved. — In this Island we found some Split timber the parts of
a house which the Indians had verry Securely covered with Stone, we also
observed a place where the Indians had buried there fish, we have made it
a point at all times not to take any thing belonging to the Indians even
their wood. but at this time we are Compelled to violate that rule and
take a part of the Split timber we find here bured for fire wood, as no
other is to be found in any direction. our Small Canoe which was a head
returned at night with 2 ores which they found floating below. The wind
this after noon from the S. W. as usial and hard way of the forks to the
Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as
our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except
a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the
men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave
us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep — and
I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare they
would be liberal of it I detected the men to mend their Mockessons to
night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c.
&c. Saw great numbers of the large Black grass hopper. Some bars which
were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew
Pigions plainly See a rainge of mountains which bore S. E. & N. W. the
nearest point south about 60 miles, and becoms high toward the N. W. The
plaines on each Side is wavering. Labiesh killed 2 gees & 2 Ducks of
the large kind. at two oClock we loaded & Set out, our Powder &
Provisions of roots not Sufficently dry. we Shall put them out at the
forks or mouth of this river which is at no great distance, and at which
place we Shall delay to make Some Selestial observations &c. passed
Eleven Island and Seven rapids to day. Several of the rapids verry bad and
dificuelt to pass. The Islands of different Sizes and all of round Stone
and Sand, no timber of any kind in Sight of the river, a fiew Small
willows excepted; in the evening the countrey becomes lower not exceding
90 or 100 feet above the water and back is a wavering Plain on each Side,
passed thro narrows for 3 miles where the Clifts of rocks juted to the
river on each Side compressing the water of the river through a narrow
chanel; below which it widens into a kind of bason nearly round without
any proceptiable current, at the lower part of this bason is a bad
dificuelt and dangerous rapid to pass, at the upper part of this rapid we
over took the three Indians who had Polited us thro the rapids from the
forks. those people with our 2 Chiefs had proceeded on to this place where
they thought proper to delay for us to warn us of the difficulties of this
rapid. we landed at a parcel of Split timber, the timber of a house of
Indians out hunting the Antilope in the plains; and raised on Scaffolds to
Save them from the Spring floods. here we were obliged for the first time
to take the property of the Indians without the consent or approbation of
the owner. the night was cold & we made use of a part of those boards
and Split logs for fire wood. Killed two teel this evening. Examined the
rapids which we found more dificuelt to pass than we expected from the
Indians information. a Suckcession of Sholes, appears to reach from bank
to bank for 3 miles which was also intersepted with large rocks Sticking
up in every direction, and the chanel through which we must pass crooked
and narrow. we only made 20 miles today, owing to the detention in passing
rapids &c.
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
Oar. 16th 1805 Wednesday a cool morning Set out early passed the rapid
with all the Canoes except Sgt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower
part of the rapid and Stuck fast, by the assistance of the 3 other Canoes
She was unloaded and got off the rock without any further injorey than,
the wetting the greater part of her loading — loaded and proceeded on
I walked around this rapid
We halted a Short time above the Point and Smoked with the Indians, &
examined the Point and best place for our Camp, we Camped on the Columbia
River a little above the point I Saw about 200 men Comeing down from their
villages & were turned back by the Chief, after we built our fires of
what wood we Could Collect, & get from the Indians, the Chief brought
down all his men Singing and dancing as they Came, formed a ring and
danced for Some time around us we gave them a Smoke, and they returned the
village a little above, the Chief & Several delay untill I went to
bead. bought 7 dogs & they gave us Several fresh Salmon & Som
horse dried
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
October 16th Wednesday 1805 A cool morning deturmined to run the rapids,
put our Indian guide in front our Small Canoe next and the other four
following each other, the canoes all passed over Safe except the rear
Canoe which run fast on a rock at the lower part of the Rapids, with the
early assistance of the other Canoes & the Indians, who was extreamly
ellert every thing was taken out and the Canoe got off without any enjorie
further than the articles which it was loaded all wet. at 14 miles passed
a bad rapid at which place we unloaded and made a portage of 3/4 of a
mile, haveing passd. 4 Smaller rapids, three Islands and the parts of a
house above, I Saw Indians & Horses on the South Side below. five
Indians came up the river in great haste, we Smoked with them and gave
them a piece of tobacco to Smoke with their people and Sent them back,
they Set out in a run & continued to go as fast as They Could run as
far as we Could See them. after getting Safely over the rapid and haveing
taken Diner Set out and proceeded on Seven miles to the junction of this
river and the Columbia which joins from the N. W. passd. a rapid two
Islands and a graveley bare, and imediately in the mouth a rapid above an
Island. In every direction from the junction of those rivers the Countrey
is one Continued plain low and rises from the water gradually, except a
range of high Countrey which runs from S. W & N E and is on the
opposit Side about 2 miles distant from the Collumbia and keeping its
detection S W untill it joins a S W. range of mountains.
We halted above the point on the river Kimooenim to Smoke with the Indians
who had collected there in great numbers to view us, here we met our 2
Chiefs who left us two days ago and proceeded on to this place to inform
those bands of our approach and friendly intentions towards all nations
&c. we also met the 2 men who had passed us Several days ago on hors
back, one of them we observed was a man of great influence with those
Indians, harranged them; after Smokeing with the Indians who had collected
to view us we formed a camp at the point near which place I Saw a fiew
pieces of Drift wood after we had our camp fixed and fires made, a Chief
came from their Camp which was about 1/4 of a mile up the Columbia river
at the head of about 200 men Singing and beeting on their drums Stick and
keeping time to the musik, they formed a half circle around us and Sung
for Some time, we gave them all Smoke, and Spoke to their Chiefs as well
as we could by Signs informing them of our friendly disposition to all
nations, and our joy in Seeing those of our Children around us, Gave the
principal chief a large Medal Shirt and Handkf. a 2nd Chief a Meadel of
Small Size, and to the Cheif who came down from the upper villages a Small
Medal & Handkerchief.
The Chiefs then returned with the men to their camp; Soon after we
purchased for our Provisions Seven Dogs, Some fiew of those people made us
presents of fish and Several returned and delayed with us untill bedtime — The
2 old Chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river precured us
Some full Such as the Stalks of weed or plant and willow bushes — one
man made me a present of a about 20 lb. of verry fat Dried horse meat.
Great quantities of a kind of prickley pares, much worst than any I have
before Seen of a tapering form and attach themselves by bunches.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805 Forks of Columbia This morning after the Luner
observations, the old chief came down, and Several men with dogs to Sell
& womin with fish &c. the Dogs we purchased the fish not good.
I took 2 men and Set out in a Small Canoe with a view to go as high up the
Columbia river as the 1st forks which the Indians made Signs was but a
Short distance, I set out at 2 oClock firs course was N. 83° W 6 miles to
the lower point of a Island on the Lard. Side, passed an Island in the
middle of the river at 5 miles, at the head of which is a rapid not bad at
this rapid 3 Lodges of mats on the Lard emenc quantites of dried fish,
then West 4 miles to the Lower point of an Island on the Stard. Side, 2
lodges of Indians large and built of mats- passed 3 verry large mat lodges
at 2 mile on the Stard Side large Scaffols of fish drying at every lodge,
and piles of Salmon lying. the Squars engaged prepareing them for the
Scaffol — a Squar gave me a dried Salmon from those lodes on the
Island an Indian Showed me the mouth of the river which falls in below a
high hill on the Lard. N. 80° W. 8 miles from the Island. The river
bending Lard. — This river is remarkably Clear and Crouded with Salmon
in maney places, I observe in assending great numbers of Salmon dead on
the Shores, floating on the water and in the Bottoms which can be seen at
the debth of 20 feet. the Cause of the emence numbers of dead Salmon I
can't account for So it is I must have seen 3 or 400 dead and maney living
the Indians, I believe make use of the fish which is not long dead as, I
Struck one nearly dead and left him floating, Some Indians in a canoe
behind took the fish on board his canoe
The bottoms on the South Side as high as the Tarcouche tesse is from 1 to
2 miles wide, back of the bottoms rises to hilly countrey, the Plain is
low on the North & Easte for a great distance no wood to be Seen in
any direction.
The Tarcouche tesse bears South of West, the Columbia N W above range of
hills on the West Parrelel a range of mountains to the East which appears
to run nearly North & South distance not more than 50 miles — I
returned to the point at Dusk followed by three canoes of Indians 20 in
number — I killed a Fowl of the Pheasent kind as large as a turkey.
The length from his Beeck to the end of its tail 2 feet 6 — 3/4
Inches, from the extremity of its wings across 3 feet 6 Inches. the tail
feathers 13 Inches long, feeds on grass hoppers, and the Seed of wild
Isoop 6
Those Indians are orderly, badly dressed in the Same fashions of those
above except the women who wore Short Shirts and a flap over them 22
Fishing houses of Mats robes of Deer, Goat & Beaver.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805 A fair morning made the above observations
during which time the principal Chief came down with Several of his
principal men and Smoked with us. Several men and woman offered Dogs and
fish to Sell, we purchased all the dogs we could, the fish being out of
Season and dieing in great numbers in the river, we did not think proper
to use them, Send out Hunters to Shute the Prarie Cock a large fowl which
I have only Seen on this river; Several of which I have killed, they are
the Size of a Small turkey, of the pheasant kind, one I killed on the
water edge to day measured from the Beek to the end of the toe 2 feet 6
& 3/4 Inches; from the extremities of its wings 3 feet 6 inches; the
tale feathers is 13 inches long; they feed on grasshoppers and the Seed of
the wild plant which is also peculiar to this river and the upper parts of
the Missoury somewhat resembling the whins-. Capt. Lewis took a vocabelary
of the Language of those people who call themselves So hulk, and also one
of the language of a nation resideing on a Westerly fork of the Columbia
which mouthes a fiew miles above this place who Call themselves Chim na
pum Some fiew of this nation reside with the So kulks nation, Their
language differ but little from either the Sokulks or the Cho-pun-nish (or
pierced nose) nation which inhabit the Koskoskia river and Lewis's R
below.
I took two men in a Small Canoe and assended the Columbia river 10 miles
to an Island near the Stard. Shore on which two large Mat Lodges of
Indians were drying Salmon, (as they informed me by Signs for the purpose
of food and fuel, & I do not think at all improbable that those people
make use of Dried fish as fuel,) The number of dead Salmon on the Shores
& floating in the river is incrediable to Say and at this Season they
have only to collect the fish Split them open and dry them on their
Scaffolds on which they have great numbers, how far they have to raft
their timber they make their Scaffolds of I could not lern; but there is
no timber of any Sort except Small willow bushes in Sight in any
directionfrom this Island the natives showed me the enterance of a large
Westerly fork which they Call Tapetett at about 8 miles distant, the
evening being late I deturmined to return to the forks, at which place I
reached at Dark. from the point up the Columbia River is N. 83° W. 6 miles
to the lower point of an Island near the Lard. Side passed a Island in the
middle of the river at 5 miles at the head of which is a rapid, not
dangerous on the Lard Side opposit to this rapid is a fishing place 3 Mat
Lodges, and great quants. of Salmon on Scaffolds drying. Saw great numhers
of Dead Salmon on the Shores and floating in the water, great numbers of
Indians on the banks viewing me and 18 canoes accompanied me from the
point — The Waters of this river is Clear, and a Salmon may be Seen at
the deabth of 15 or 20 feet. West 4 miles to the lower point of a large
Island near the Stard. Side at 2 Lodges, passed three large lodges on the
Stard Side near which great number of Salmon was drying on Scaffolds one
of those Mat lodges I entered found it crouded with men women and children
and near the enterance of those houses I saw maney Squars engaged
Splitting and drying Salmon. I was furnished with a mat to Sit on, and one
man Set about prepareing me Something to eate, first he brought in a piece
of a Drift log of pine and with a wedge of the elks horn, and a malet of
Stone curioesly Carved he Split the log into Small pieces and lay'd it
open on the fire on which he put round Stones, a woman handed him a basket
of water and a large Salmon about half Dried, when the Stones were hot he
put them into the basket of water with the fish which was Soon Suflicently
boiled for use. it was then taken out put on a platter of rushes neetly
made, and Set before me they boiled a Salmon for each of the men with me,
dureing those preperations, I Smoked with those about me who Chose to
Smoke which was but fiew, this being a custom those people are but little
accustomed to and only Smok thro form. after eateing the boiled fish which
was delicious, I Set out & halted or came too on the Island at the two
Lodges. Several fish was given to me, in return for Which I gave Small
pieces of ribbond from those Lodges the natives Showed me the mouth of Tap
teel River about 8 miles above on the west Side this western fork appears
to beare nearly West, The main Columbia river N W. — a range of high
land to the S W and parralal to the river and at the distance of 2 miles
on the Lard. Side, the countrey low on the Stard. Side, and all Coverd.
with a weed or plant about 2 & three feet high and resembles the
whins. I can proceive a range of mountains to the East which appears to
bare N. & South distant about 50 or 60 miles. no wood to be Seen in
any derection — On my return I was followd. by 3 canoes in which there
was 20 Indians I shot a large Prairie Cock Several Grouse, Ducks and fish.
on my return found Great Numbr. of the nativs with Capt Lewis, men all
employd in dressing ther Skins mending their clothes and putting ther arms
in the best order the latter being always a matter of attention with us.
The Dress of those natives differ but little from those on the Koskoskia
and Lewis's rivers, except the women who dress verry different in as much
as those above ware long leather Shirts which highly ornimented with heeds
Shells &c. &c. and those on the main Columbia river only ware a
truss or pece of leather tied around them at their hips and drawn tite
between ther legs and fastened before So as barly to hide those parts
which are So Sacredly hid & Scured by our women. Those women are more
inclined to Copulency than any we have yet Seen, with low Stature broad
faces, heads flatened and the foward compressed so as to form a Streight
line from the nose to the Crown of the head, their eyes are of a Duskey
black, their hair of a corse black without orniments of any kind braded as
above, The orniments of each Sects are Similar, Such as large blue &
white beeds, either pendant from their ears or encircling their necks, or
wrists & arms. they also ware bracelets of Brass, Copper & horn,
and trinkets of Shells, fish bones and curious feathers. Their garments
Consists of a short Shirt of leather and a roabe of the Skins of Deer or
the Antilope but fiew of them ware Shirts all have Short robes. Those
people appears to live in a State of comparitive happiness; they take a
greater Share labor of the woman, than is common among Savage tribes, and
as I am informd. Content with one wife (as also those on the Ki moo e nim
river) Those people respect the aged with veneration, I observed an old
woman in one of the Lodges which I entered She was entirely blind as I was
informed by Signs, had lived more than 100 winters, She occupied the best
position in the house, and when She Spoke great attention was paid to what
She Said-. Those people as also those of the flat heads which we had
passed on the Koskoske and Lewis's rivers are Subject to Sore eyes, and
maney are blind of one and Some of both eyes. this misfortune must be
owing to the reflections of the Sun &c. on the waters in which they
are continually fishing during the Spring Summer & fall, & the
Snows dureing the, winter Seasons, in this open countrey where the eye has
no rest. I have observed amongst those, as well in all other tribes which
I have passed on these waters who live on fish maney of different Sectes
who have lost their teeth about middle age, Some have their teeth worn to
the gums, perticelar those of the upper jaws, and the tribes generally
have bad teeth the cause of it I cannot account sand attachd. to the roots
&c the method they have of useing the dri'd Salmon, which is mearly
worming it and eating the rine & Scales with the flesh of the fish, no
doubt contributes to it
The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia river is of large
mats made of rushes, Those houses are from 15 to 60 feet in length
generally of an Oblong Squar form, Suported by poles on forks in the iner
Side, Six feet high, the top is covered also with mats leaveing a
Seperation in the whole length of about 12 or 15 inches wide, left for the
purpose of admitting light and for the Smok of the fire to pass which is
made in the middle of the house. — The roughfs are nearly flat, which
proves to me that rains are not common in this open Countrey
Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposedThey have
in their huts independant of their nets gigs & fishing tackling each
bows & large quivers of arrows on which they use flint Spikes. Theire
ammusements are Similar to those of the Missouri. they are not beggerley
and receive what is given them with much joy.
I saw but flew horses they appeared make but little use of those animals
principally useing Canoes for their uses of procureing food &c.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805 a cold morning faire & wind from S E Several
Heath hens or large Pheasents lit near us & the men killed Six of
them.
Took one altitude of the Suns upper Limb 28° 22′ 15″ at h m s 8 1 24 A.M.
Several Indian Canoes Come down & joind those with us, made a Second
Chief by giveing a meadel & wampom I also gave a String of wampom to
the old Chief who came down with us and informed the Indians of our views
and intentions in a council
Measured the width of the Columbia River, from the Point across to a Point
of view is S 22° W from the Point up the Columa to a Point of view is N.
84° W. 148 poles, thence across to the 1st point of view is S 281/2 E
Measured the width of Ki moo e nim River, from the Point across to an
object on the opposit side is N. 411/2 E from the Point up the river is N.
8 E. 82 poles thence accross to the Point of view is N. 79° East
Distance across the Columbia 9603/4 yds water
Distance across the Ki-moo-e nim 575 yds water
Names of this nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim is So-Kulk Perced
noses The Names of the nation on the Kimoenim River is Chopun-nish Piercd
noses at the Prarie the name of a nation at the Second forks of the Tape
tele River, or Nocktock fork Chim-na-pum, Some of which reside with the So
kulkc above this-at and a few miles distance, — 4 men in a Canoe come
up from below Stayed a fiew minits and returned.
Took a meridian altitude 68° 57' 30" the Suns upper Limb. The Lattitudes
produced is 46° 15' 13 9/10" North, Capt Lewis took a vocabillary of the
So kulk or Pierced noses Language and Chim-nd-pum Language whic is in Some
words different but orriginally the Same people The Great Chief Cuts-Sa.h
nim gave me a Sketch of the rivers & Tribes above on the great river
& its waters on which he put great numbers of villages of his nation
& friends, as noted on the Sketch
The fish being very bad those which was offerd to us we had every reason
to believe was taken up on the Shore dead, we thought proper not to
purchase any, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of little
value, Such as beeds, bell, & thimbles, of which they appeard verry
fond, at 4 OClock we Set out down the Great Columbia accompand by our two
old Chiefs, one young man wished to accompany us, but we had no room for
more, & he could be of no Service to us
The Great Chief Continued with us untill our departure.
we Encamped a little below & opsd. the lower point of the Island on
the Lard. Side no wood to be found we were obliged to make use Small drid
willows to Cook — our old Chief informed us that the great Chief of
all the nations about lived at the 9 Lodges above and wished us to land
&c. he Said he would go up and Call him over they went up and did not
return untill late at night, about 20 came down & built a fire above
and Stayed all night. The chief brought a basket of mashed berries.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805 This morning Cool and fare wind from the S. E.
Six of the large Prarie cock killed this morning. Several canoes of
Indians Came down and joined those with us, we had a council with those in
which we informed of our friendly intentions towards them and all other of
our red children; of our wish to make a piece between all of our red
Children in this quarter &c. &c. this was conveyed by Signs thro
our 2 Chiefs who accompanied us, and was understood, we made a 2d Chief
and gave Strings of wompom to them all in remembrance of what we Said — four
men in a Canoe came up from a large encampment on an Island in the River
about 8 miles below, they delayed but a fiew minits and returned, without
Speaking a word to us.
The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a Sketch of the
Columbia above and the tribes of his nation, living on the bank, and its
waters, and the Tape tett river which falls in 18 miles above on the
westerly side See Sketch below for the number of villages and nations
&c. &c.
We thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for our voyage,
and the fish being out of Season, we purchased forty dogs for which we
gave articles of little value, Such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins,
brass wire & a few beeds all of which they appeared well Satisfied and
pleased.
every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and Set out on the
great Columbia river, haveing left our guide and the two young men two of
them enclined not to proceed on any further, and the 3rd could be of no
Service to us as he did not know the river below
Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us and proceeded on down
the great Columbia river passed a large Island at 8 miles about 3 miles in
length, a Island on the Stard. Side the upper point of which is opposit
the center of the last mentioned Island and reaches 31/2 miles below the
1st. Island and opposit to this near the middle of the river nine Lodges
are Situated on the upper point at a rapid which is between the lower
point of the 1st Island and upper point of this; great numbers of Indians
appeared to be on this Island, and emence quantites of fish Scaffold we
landed a few minits to view a rapid which Commenced at the lower point,
passd this rapid which was verry bad between 2 Small Islands two Still
Smaller near the Lard. Side, at this rapid on the Stard. Side is 2 Lodges
of Indians Drying fish, at 21/2 miles lower and 141/2 below the point
passed an Island Close under the Stard. Side on which was 2 Lodges of
Indians drying fish on Scaffolds as above at 16 miles from the point the
river passesinto the range of high Countrey at which place the rocks
project into the river from the high clifts which is on the Lard. Side
about 2/3 of the way across and those of the Stard Side about the Same
distance, the Countrey rises here about 200 feet above The water and is
bordered with black rugid rocks, at the Commencement of this high Countrey
on Lard Side a Small riverlet falls in which appears to passed under the
high County in its whole cose Saw a mountain bearing S. W. Conocal form
Covered with Snow. passed 4 Islands, at the upper point of the 3rd is a
rapid, on this Island is two Lodges of Indians, drying fish, on the fourth
Island Close under the Stard. Side is nine large Lodges of Indians Drying
fish on Scaffolds as above at this place we were called to land, as it was
near night and no appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles lower
to Some willows, at which place we observed a drift log formed a Camp on
the Lard Side under a high hill nearly opposit to five Lodges of Indians;
Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs informed us that the large camp above
"was the Camp of the 1st Chief of all the tribes in this quarter, and that
he had called to us to land and Stay all night with him, that he had
plenty of wood for us &" This would have been agreeable to us if it
had have been understood perticelarly as we were compelled to Use drid
willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking, we requested the old Chiefs
to walk up on the Side we had landed and call to the Chief to come down
and Stay with us all night which they did; late at night the Chief came
down accompanied by 20 men, and formed a Camp a Short distance above, the
chief brought with him a large basket of mashed berries which he left at
our Lodge as a present. I saw on the main land opposit those Lodges a
number of horses feeding, we made 21 miles to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday, The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band
below Came and Smoked with us we gave a Meadel a String of Wampom &
handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-leppit The 2d Chief we gave a
String of wampom, his name is ____ The 3d who lives below a String of
Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill 12
we excused our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleasd and astonished those reches
who are badly Clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them,
they are homeley high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I Suped on the Crane
which I killed to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday 1805 The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs,
and a Chief of Band below presented themselves to us verry early this
morning. we Smoked with them, enformed them as we had all others above as
well as we Could by Signs of our friendly intentions towards our red
children Perticular those who opened their ears to our Councils. we gave a
Medal, a Handkercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a String
of wompom to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian, with
a dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high
and well perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the
day, that his people might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves and
promised to Stay with him one or 2 days on our return which appeared to
Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in Canoes to view us
before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we proceeded on
passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles in length
opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on one of which
five Lodges vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper point of this
Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two Islands; one near
the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of Indians drying fish,
at our approach they hid themselves in their Lodges and not one was to be
seen untill we passed, they then Came out in greater numbers than is
common in Lodges of their Size, it is probable that, the inhabitants of
the 5 Lodges above had in a fright left their lodges and decended to this
place to defend them Selves if attackted there being a bad rapid opposit
the Island thro which we had to pass prevented our landing on this Island
and passifying those people, about four miles below this fritened Island
we arrived at the head of a verry bad rapid, we came too on the Lard Side
to view the rapid before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared
to be close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our
canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs the
interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede down
on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles in
length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high
clift about 200 feet above the water from the top of which is a leavel
plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place the
Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a prospect of
the river and countrey below for great extent both to the right and left;
from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence hight covered with
Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by Vancouver, as Seen
from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the Course which it bears which
is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens, destant 156 miles a range of
mountains in the Derection crossing, a conacal mountain S. W. toped with
Snow This rapid I observed as I passed opposit to it to be verry bad
interseped with high rock and Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks
of Muscle Shells banked up in the river in Several places, I Delayed at
the foot of the rapid about 2 hours for the Canoes which I Could See met
with much dificuelty in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney
places the men were obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over
Sholes — while Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain
which was flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of
Lodges on the opposit Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on
the opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes,
others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed
but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they
could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of us, I
deturmined to take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed with the
three men in it to the Lodges, on my aproach not one person was to be Seen
except three men off in the plains, and they Sheared off as I aproached
near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which was at no great
distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or Dores of the
Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were built a mat, I
approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge which was the
nearest to me found 32 persons men, women and a few children Setting
permiscuesly in the Lodg, in the greatest agutation, Some crying and
ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave my hand to them
all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered the men my pipe to
Smok and distributed a fiew Small articles which I had in my pockets,-this
measure passified those distressed people verry much, I then Sent one man
into each lodge and entered a Second myself the inhabitants of which I
found more fritened than those of the first lodge I destributed Sundrey
Small articles amongst them, and Smoked with the men, I then entered the
third 4h & fifth Lodge which I found Somewhat passified, the three
men, Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing useed everey means in their power
to convince them of our friendly disposition to them, I then Set my Self
on a rock and made Signs to the men to come and Smoke with me not one Come
out untill the Canoes arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud,
and as was their Custom to all we had passed the Indians came out &
Set by me and Smoked They said we came from the clouds &c &c and
were not men &c. &c. this time Capt. Lewis came down with the
Canoes rear in which the Indian, as Soon as they Saw the Squar wife of the
interperters they pointed to her and informed those who continued yet in
the Same position I first found them, they imediately all came out and
appeared to assume new life, the sight of This Indian woman, wife to one
of our interprs. confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no
woman ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this quarter — Capt
Lewis joined us and we Smoked with those people in the greatest
friendship, dureing which time one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we
were from whence we Came and where we were going giveing them a friendly
account of us, those people do not Speak prosisely the Same language of
those above but understand them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors
back in the plains maney of the men womin and children Came up from the
Lodges below; all of them appeared pleased to See us, we traded some fiew
articles for fish and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a Small
rapid and 15 Lodges below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close
under the Lard Side, nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the
middle of the river, and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which
was at a fiew willow trees about 100 Indians Came from the different
Lodges, and a number of them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked
with all of them, and two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on
the violin which delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man a
String of wompon treated them kindly for which they appeared greatfull,
This Tribe can raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at the
fork except their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste
and 3/4 of them have Scercely any robes at all, the women have only a
Small pece of a robe which Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down
behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste, the
brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high Cheeks
flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in
fishing and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their
Scaffolds, their habits customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck
that with the Crain afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued all
night at our fires
This day we made 36 miles.
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th 1805 Sunday a very cold morning wind S. W. about 100 Indians
Came over this morning to See us, after a Smoke, a brackfast on Dogs flesh
we Set out. about 350 men
Killed 2 large speckle guts 4 Duck in Malade Small ducks the flavour of
which much resembles the Canvis back no timber of any kind on the river,
we Saw in the last Lodges acorns of the white oake which the Inds. inform
they precure above the falls The men are badly dressed, Some have scarlet
& blue cloth robes. one has a Salors jacket, The women have a Short
indiferent Shirt, a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, & a Small Skin
which they fastend. tite around their bodies & fastend. between the
legs to hide the
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th Sunday 1805 A cool morning wind S. W. we concluded to delay
untill after brackfast which we were obliged to make on the flesh of dog.
after brackfast we gave all the Indian men Smoke, and we Set out leaveing
about 200 of the nativs at our Encampment; passd. three Indian Lodges on
the Lard Side a little below our Camp which lodges I did not discover last
evening, passed a rapid at Seven miles one at a Short distance below we
passed a verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from the Stard. Side
and nearly Chokeing the river up entirely with hugh black rocks, an Island
below close under the Stard. Side on which was four Lodges of Indians
drying-fish, — here I Saw a great number of pelicons on the wing, and
black Comerants. at one oClock we landed on the lower point of an Island
at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the Stard Side nearly opposit and
a Small one a little below on the Lard Side on those three Island I
counted Seventeen Indian Lodges, those people are in every respect like
those above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption here we
purchased a fiew indifferent Dried fish & a fiew berries on which we
dined-(On the upper part of this Island we discovered an Indian vault) our
curiosity induced us to examine the methot those nativs practicd in
diposeing the dead, the Vaut was made by broad poads and pieces of Canoes
leaning on a ridge pole which was Suported by 2 forks Set in the ground
Six feet in hight in an easterly and westerly direction and about 60 feet
in length, and 12 feet wide, in it I observed great numbers of humane
bones of every description perticularly in a pile near the Center of the
vault, on the East End 21 Scul bomes forming a circle on Mats-; in the
Westerley part of the Vault appeared to be appropriated for those of more
resent death, as many of the bodies of the deceased raped up in leather
robes lay on board covered with mats, &c we observed, independant of
the canoes which Served as a Covering, fishing nets of various kinds,
Baskets of different Sizes, wooden boles, robes Skins, trenchers, and
various Kind of trinkets, in and Suspended on the ends of the pieces
forming the vault; we also Saw the Skeletons of Several Horses at the
vault & great number of bones about it, which Convinced me that those
animals were Sacrefised as well as the above articles to the Deceased.)
after diner we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a Small
Island on which four Lodges of Indians were Situated drying fish; here the
high countrey Commences again on the Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40
miles in width, from the mustle Shel rapid. examined and passed this rapid
close to the Island at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near the middle
of the river a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all in view of each
other below, a riverlit falls in on the Lard. Side behind a Small Island a
Small rapid below. The Star Side is high rugid hills, the Lard. Side a low
plain and not a tree to be Seen in any Direction except a fiew Small
willow bushes which are Scattered partially on the Sides of the bank
The river to day is about 1/4 of a mile in width; this evening the
Countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the Starboard
Side, and is wavering — we made 42 miles to day; the current much more
uniform than yesterday or the day before. Killed 2 Speckle guls Severl.
ducks of a delicious flavour.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st 1805 Monday a verry Cold morning we Set out early wind from
the S W. we Could not Cook brakfast before we embarked as usial for the
want of wood or Something to burn.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st Monday 1805 A verry cool morning wind from the S. W. we Set
out verry early and proceeded on, last night we could not Collect more dry
willows the only fuel, than was barely Suffient to cook Supper, and not a
Sufficency to cook brackfast this morning, passd. a Small Island at 51/2
miles a large one 8 miles in the middle of the river, Some rapid water at
the head and Eight Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard.
Side, we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast. Those
people recived us with great kindness, and examined us with much
attention, their employments custom Dress and appearance Similar to those
above; Speak the Same language, here we Saw two Scarlet and a blue cloth
blanket, also a Salors Jacket the Dress of the men of this tribe only a
Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the womn is a Short piece of
Dressed Skin which fall from the neck So as to Cover the front of the body
as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of one Deer or antilope Skin,
and a Hap, around their waste and Drawn tite between their legs as before
described, their orniments are but fiew, and worn as those above.
we got from those people a fiew pounded rotes fish and Acorns of the white
oake, those Acorns they make use of as food, and inform us they precure
them of the nativs who live near the falls below which place they all
discribe by the term Timm at 2 miles lower passed a rapid, large rocks
Stringing into the river of large Size opposit to this rapid on the Stard.
Shore is Situated two Lodges of the nativs drying fish here we halted a
fiew minits to examine the rapid before we entered it which was our
constant Custom, and at all that was verry dangerous put out all who could
not Swim to walk around, after passing this rapid we proceeded on passed
anoothe rapid at 5 miles lower down, above this rapid on five Lodges of
Indians fishing &c. above this rapid maney large rocks on each Side at
Some distance from Shore, one mile passed an Island Close to the Stard.
Side, below which is two Lodge of nativs, a little below is a bad rapid
which is bad crouded with hugh rocks Scattered in every Direction which
renders the pasage verry Difficuelt a little above this rapid on the Lard.
Side emence piles of rocks appears as if Sliped from the Clifts under
which they lay, passed great number of rocks in every direction Scattered
in the river 5 Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one lodge on
an Island near the Stard. Shore opposit to which is a verry bad rapid,
thro which we found much dificuelty in passing, the river is Crouded with
rocks in every direction, after Passing this dificult rapid to the mouth
of a Small river on the Larboard Side 40 yards wide descharges but little
water at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the Open plains to
the S. E. from this place I proceved Some fiew Small pines on the tops of
the high hills and bushes in the hollars. imediately above & below
this little river comences a rapid which is crouded with large rocks in
every direction, the pasage both crooked and dificuelt, we halted at a
Lodge to examine those noumerous Islands of rock which apd. to extend
maney miles below,-. great numbs. of Indians came in Canoes to View us at
this place, after passing this rapid which we accomplished without loss;
winding through between the hugh rocks for about 2 miles-. (from this
rapid the Conocil mountain is S. W. which the Indians inform me is not far
to the left of the great falls; this I call the Timm or falls mountain it
is high and the top is covered with Snow) imediately below the last rapids
there is four Lodges of Indians on the Stard. Side, proceeded on about two
miles lower and landed and encamped near five Lodges of nativs, drying
fish those are the relations of those at the Great falls, they are pore
and have but little wood which they bring up the river from the falls as
they Say, we purchased a little wood to cook our Dog meat and fish; those
people did not recive us at first with the same cordiality of those above,
they appeare to be the Same nation Speak the Same language with a little
curruption of maney words Dress and fish in the Same way, all of whome
have pierced noses and the men when Dressed ware a long taper'd piece of
Shell or beed put through the nose-this part of the river is furnished
with fine Springs which either rise high up the Sides of the hills or on
the bottom near the river and run into the river. the hills are high and
rugid a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either Small pine or
Scrubey white oke.
The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side of this as
well as the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the Snake Indians who
reside, as they nativs Say on a great river to the South, and are at war
with those tribes, one of the Old Chiefs who accompanies us pointed out a
place on the lard. Side where they had a great battle, not maney years
ago, in which maney were killed on both Sides, one of our party J.
Collins presented us with Some verry good beer made of the
Pashi-co-quar-mash bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid in
as Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or Cho-punnish Nation at
the head of the Kosskoske river which by being frequently wet molded &
Sowered &c. we made 33 miles to day.
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22nd Tuesday 1805 a fine morning Calm. we Set out at 9 oClock and
on the Course S. 52° W. 10 miles passed lodges & Inds. and rapids as
mentioned in the Cours of yesterday, from the expiration of
Took our Baggage & formed a Camp below the rapids in a cove on the
Stard Side the distance 1200 yards haveing passed at the upper end of the
portage 17 Lodges of Indians, below the rapids & above the Camp 5
large Loges of Indians, great numbers of baskets of Pounded fish on the
rocks Islands & near their Lodges thos are neetly pounded & put in
verry new baskets of about 90 or 100 pounds wight. hire Indians to take
our heavy articles across the portage purchased a Dog for Supper Great
numbers of Indians view us, we with much dificuelty purchd. as much wood
as Cooked our dogs this evening, our men all in helth — The Indians
have their grave yards on an Island in the rapids. The Great Chief of
those Indians is out hunting. no Indians reside on the Lard Side for fear
of the Snake Indians with whome they are at war and who reside on the
large fork on the lard. a little above
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22d Tuesday 1805 A fine morning calm and fare we Set out at 9
oClock passed a verry bad rapid at the head of an Island close under the
Stard. Side, above this rapid on the Stard Side is Six Lodges of nativs
Drying fish, at 9 mls. passed a bad rapid at the head of a large Island of
high, uneaven rocks, jutting over the water, a Small Island in a Stard.
Bend opposit the upper point, on which I counted 20 parcels of dryed and
pounded fish; on the main Stard Shore opposit to this Island five Lodges
of Indians are Situated Several Indians in Canoes killing fish with gigs,
&c. opposit the center of this Island of rocks which is about 4 miles
long we discovered the enterence of a large river on the Lard. Side which
appeared to Come from the S. E. — we landed at Some distance above the
mouth of this river and Capt. Lewis and my Self Set out to view this river
above its mouth, as our rout was intersepted by a deep narrow Chanel which
runs out of this river into the Columbia a little below the place we
landed, leaveing a high dry rich Island of about 400 yards wide and 800
yards long here we Seperated, I proceeded on to the river and Struck it at
the foot of a verry Considerable rapid, here I beheld an emence body of
water Compressd in a narrow Chanel of about 200 yds in width, fomeing over
rocks maney of which presented their tops above the water, when at this
place Capt. Lewis joined me haveing delayed on the way to examine a root
of which the nativs had been digging great quantities in the bottoms of
this River. at about two miles above this River appears to be confined
between two high hils below which it divided by numbers of large rocks,
and Small Islands covered with a low groth of timber, and has a rapid as
far as the narrows three Small Islands in the mouth of this River, this
River haveing no Indian name that we could find out, except "the River on
which the Snake Indians live," we think it best to leave the nameing of it
untill our return.
we proceeded on pass the mouth of this river at which place it appears to
discharge 1/4 as much water as runs down the Columbia. at two miles below
this River passed Eight Lodges on the Lower point of the Rock Island
aforesaid at those Lodges we saw large logs of wood which must have been
rafted down the To war-ne hi ooks River, below this Island on the main
Stard Shore is 16 Lodges of nativs; here we landed a fiew minits to Smoke,
the lower point of one Island opposit which heads in the mouth of
Towarnehiooks River which I did not observe untill after passing these
lodges about 1/2 a mile lower passed 6 more Lodges on the Same Side and 6
miles below the upper mouth of Towarnehiooks River the comencement of the
pitch of the Great falls, opposit on the Stard. Side is 17 Lodges of the
nativs we landed and walked down accompanied by an old man to view the
falls, and the best rout for to make a portage which we Soon discovered
was much nearest on the Stard. Side, and the distance 1200 yards one third
of the way on a rock, about 200 yards over a loose Sand collected in a
hollar blown by the winds from the bottoms below which was disagreeable to
pass, as it was Steep and loose. at the lower part of those rapids we
arrived at 5 Large Lodges of nativs drying and prepareing fish for market,
they gave us Philburts, and berries to eate, we returned droped down to
the head of the rapids and took every article except the Canoes across the
portag where I had formed a camp on ellegable Situation for the protection
of our Stores from Thieft, which we were more fearfull of, than their
arrows. we despatched two men to examine the river on the opposit Side,
and reported that the Canoes could be taken down a narrow Chanel on the
opposit Side after a Short portage at the head of the falls, at which
place the Indians take over their Canoes. Indians assisted us over the
portage with our heavy articles on their horses, the waters is divided
into Several narrow chanels which pass through a hard black rock forming
Islands of rocks at this Stage of the water, on those Islands of rocks as
well as at and about their Lodges I observe great numbers of Stacks of
pounded Salmon neetly preserved in the following manner, i e after
Suffiently Dried it is pounded between two Stones fine, and put into a
speces of basket neetly made of grass and rushes of better than two feet
long and one foot Diamiter, which basket is lined with the Skin of Salmon
Stretched and dried for the purpose, in theis it is pressed down as hard
as is possible, when full they Secure the open part with the fish Skins
across which they fasten tho the loops of the basket that part very
Securely, and then on a Dry Situation they Set those baskets the Corded
part up, their common Custom is to Set 7 as close as they can Stand and 5
on the top of them, and secure them with mats which is raped around them
and made fast with cords and Covered also with mats, those 12 baskets of
from 90 to 100 w. each form a Stack. thus preserved those fish may be kept
Sound and Sweet Several years, as those people inform me, Great quantities
as they inform us are Sold to the whites people who visit the mouth of
this river as well as to the nativs below.
on one of those Island I saw Several tooms but did not visit them The
principal Chiefs of the bands resideing about this Place is out hunting in
the mountains to the S. W. — no Indians reside on the S. W.side of
this river for fear (as we were informed) of the Snake Indians, who are at
war with the tribes on this river — -they represent the Snake Indians
as being verry noumerous, and resideing in a great number of villages on
Towarnehiooks River which falls in 6 miles above on the Lard. Side and is
reaches a great ways and is large a little abov its mouth at which part it
is not intersepted with rapids, they inform that one considerable rapid
& maney Small ones in that river, and that the Snake live on Salmon,
and they go to war to their first villages in 12 days, the Couse they
pointed is S. E. or to the S of S. E. we are visited by great numbers of
Indians to Day to view us, we purchased a Dog for Supper, Some fish and
with dificuelty precured as much wood as Cooked Supper, which we also
purchased we made 19 miles to day
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23rd (Saturday) Wednesday 1805 Took the Canoes over the Portage on
the Lard. Side with much dificuelty, description on another Paper one
Canoe got loose & cought by the Indians which we were obliged to pay.
our old Chiefs over herd the Indians from below Say they would try to kill
us & informed us of it, we have all the arm examined and put in order,
all th Inds leave us early, Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side — Shot
a Sea Oter which I did not get, Great Numbers about those rapids we
purchased 8 dogs, Small & fat for our party to eate, the Indians not
verry fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of dogs for
food Exchanged our Small canoe for a large & a very new one built for
riding the waves obsd Merdn. altd. 66° 27' 30" Latd. prodsd. 45° 42' 57
3/10" North
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23d Wednesday 1805 a fine morning, I with the greater part of the
men Crossed in the Canoes to opposit Side above the falls and hauled them
across the portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard. Side and certainly
the best side to pass the canoes I then decended through a narrow chanel
of about 150 yards wide forming a kind of half circle in it course of a
mile to a pitch of 8 feet in which the chanel is divided by 2 large rocks
at this place we were obliged to let the Canoes down by Strong ropes of
Elk Skin which we had for the purpose, one Canoe in passing this place got
loose by the Cords breaking, and was cought by the Indians below. I
accomplished this necessary business and landed Safe with all the Canoes
at our Camp below the falls by 3 oClock P.M. nearly covered with flees
which were So thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins at the upper part of
the portage at which place the nativs had been Camped not long Since; that
every man of the party was obliged to Strip naked dureing the time of
takeing over the canoes, that they might have an oppertunity of brushing
the flees of their legs and bodies — Great numbers of Sea Otters in
the river below the falls, I Shot one in the narrow chanel to day which I
could not get. Great numbers of Indians visit us both from above and below — -one
of the old Chiefs who had accompanied us from the head of the river,
informed us that he herd the Indians Say that the nation below intended to
kill us, we examined all the arms &c. complete the amunition to 100
rounds. The nativs leave us earlyer this evening than usial, which gives a
Shadow of Confirmation to the information of our Old Chief, as we are at
all times & places on our guard, are under no greater apprehention
than is common.
we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate the nativs not being
fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of Dog meat for
food, the flesh of which the most of the party have become fond of from
the habits of useing it for Some time past. The Altitude of this day 66°
27' 30" gave for Latd. 45° 42' 57 1/10 N.
I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two Canoes butifull of
different Shape & Size to what we had Seen above wide in the midde and
tapering to each end, on the bow curious figures were Cut in the wood
&c. Capt. Lewis went up to the Lodges to See those Canoes and
exchanged our Smallest Canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet &
few trinkets to the owner who informed that he purchased it of a white man
below for a horse, these Canoes are neeter made than any I have ever Seen
and Calculated to ride the waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug
thin and are suported by cross pieces of about 1 inch diamuter tied with
Strong bark thro holes in the Sides. our two old Chiefs appeared verry
uneasy this evening.
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805 a fine morning the Indians approached us with
caution. our 2 old Chiefs deturmin to return home, Saying they were at war
with Indians below and they would kill them we pursuaded them to Stay 2
nights longer with us, with a view to make a peace with those Indians
below as well as to have them with us dureing our Delay with this tribe.
Capt Lewis went to view the falls I Set out with the party at 9 oClock a m
at 21/2 miles passed a rock which makes from the Stard Side 4 Lodges above
1 below and Confined the river in a narrow channel of about 45 yards this
continued for about 1/4 of a mile & widened to about 200 yards, in
those narrows the water was agitated in a most Shocking manner boils Swell
& whorl pools, we passed with great risque It being impossible to make
a portage of the Canoes, about 2 miles lower passed a verry Bad place
between 2 rocks one large & in the middle of the river here our Canoes
took in Some water, I put all the men who Could not Swim on Shore; &
Sent a fiew articles Such as guns & papers, and landed at a village of
20 houses on the Stard Side in a Deep bason where the river ap-prd. to be
blocked up with emence rocks I walked down and examined the pass found it
narrow, and one verry bad place a little in the narrows I pursued this
Chanel which is from 50 to 100 yards wide and Swels and boils with a most
Tremendeous manner; prosued this channel 5 ms & returned found Capt
Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of his men on a visit to us, one
of our Party Pete Crusat played on the violin which pleased the Savage,
the men danced, Great numbers of Sea Orter Pole Cats about those
fishories. the houses of those Indians are 20 feet Square and Sunk 8 feet
under ground & Covered with bark with a Small door round at top rose
about 18 Inches above ground, to keep out the Snow I saw 107 parcels of
fish Stacked, and great quantites in the houses
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805 The morning fare after a beautifull night, the
nativs approached us this morning with great caution. our two old chiefs
expressed a desire to return to their band from this place, Saying "that
they Could be of no further Service to us, as their nation extended no
further down the river than those falls, and as the nation below had
expressed hostile intentions against us, would Certainly kill them;
perticularly as They had been at war with each other;" we requested them
to Stay with us two nights longer, and we would See the nation below and
make a peace between them, they replied they "were anxious to return and
See our horses" we insisted on their Staying with us two nights longer to
which they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs with us untill we
Should pass the next falls, which we were told was verry bad, and at no
great distance below, that they might inform us of any designs of the
nativs, and if possible to bring about a peace between them and the tribes
below.
The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendicular, then passing thro
a narrow Chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about 18 feet fall below which
the water has no perceptable fall but verry rapid See Sketch No. 1. It may
be proper here to remark that from Some obstruction below, the cause of
which we have not yet learned, the water in high fluds (which are in the
Spring) rise below these falls nearly to a leavel with the water above the
falls; the marks of which can be plainly trac'd around the falls. at that
Stage of the water the Salmon must pass up which abounds in Such great
numbers above — below those falls are Salmon trout and great numbers
of the heads of a Species of trout Smaller than the Salmon. those fish
they catch out of the Salmon Season, and are at this time in the act of
burrying those which they had drid for winter food. the mode of buring
those fish is in holes of various Sizes, lined with Straw on which they
lay fish Skins in which they inclose the fish which is laid verry close,
and then Covered with earth of about 12 or 15 inches thick. Capt Lewis and
three men crossed the river and on the opposit Side to view the falls
which he had not yet taken a full view of — At 9 oClock a.m. I Set out
with the party and proceeded on down a rapid Stream of about 400 yards
wide at 21/2 miles the river widened into a large bason to the Stard. Side
on which there is five Lodges of Indians. here a tremendious black rock
Presented itself high and Steep appearing to choke up the river nor could
I See where the water passed further than the Current was drawn with great
velocity to the Lard Side of this rock at which place I heard a great
roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the natives went with me to the top of
this rock which makes from the Stard. Side; from the top of which I could
See the dificuelties we had to pass for Several miles below; at this place
the water of this great river is compressed into a Chanel between two
rocks not exceeding forty five yards wide and continues for a 1/4 of a
mile when it again widens to 200 yards and continues this width for about
2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks. This obstruction in the
river accounts for the water in high floods riseing to Such a hite at the
last falls. The whole of the Current of this great river must at all
Stages pass thro this narrow chanel of 45 yards wide. as the portage of
our canoes over this high rock would be impossible with our Strength, and
the only danger in passing thro those narrows was the whorls and Swills
arriseing from the Compression of the water, and which I thought (as also
our principal watermen Peter Crusat) by good Stearing we could pass down
Safe, accordingly I detur mined to pass through this place notwithstanding
the horrid appearance of this agitated gut Swelling, boiling &
whorling in every direction (which from the top of the rock did not appear
as bad as when I was in it;) however we passed Safe to the astonishment of
all the Inds. of the last Lodges who viewed us from the top of the rock.
passed one Lodge below this rock and halted on the Stard. Side to view a
verry bad place, the Current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of
them large and in the middle of the river, this place being verry bad I
Sent by land all the men who could not Swim and Such articles as was most
valuable to us Such as papers Guns & amunition, and proceeded down
with the Canoes two at a time to a village of 20 wood housies in a Deep
bend to the Stard. Side below which a rugid black rock about 20 feet biter
than the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry Chapels which
appeared to Choke the river up quite across; this I took to be the 2d
falls or the place the nativs above call timm, The nativs of this village
reived me verry kindly, one of whome envited me into his house, which I
found to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in which
Indians have lived Since we left those in the vicinty of the Illinois,
they are scattered permiscuisly on a elivated Situation near a mound of
about 30 feet above the Common leavel, which mound has Some remains of
houses and has every appearance of being artificial — those houses are
about the Same Shape Size and form 20 feet wide and 30 feet long with one
Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, they are 291/2 inches high & 14
wide, forming in a half Circle above those houses were Sunk into the earth
Six feet, the roofs of them was Supported by a ridge pole resting on three
Strong pieces of Split timber thro one of which the dore was cut that and
the walls the top of which was just above ground Suported a certain number
of Spars which are Covered with the Bark of the white Ceadar, or Arber
Vitea; and the whole attached and Secured by the fibers of the Cedar. the
eaves at or near the earth, the gable ends and Side walls are Secured with
Split boards which is Seported on iner Side with Strong pieces of timber
under the eves &c. to keep those pieces errect & the earth from
without pressing in the boards, Suported by Strong posts at the Corners to
which those poles were attached to give aditional Strength, Small openings
were left above the ground, for the purpose, as I conjectured, of
deschargeing Their arrows at a besiegeing enimey; Light is admited Thro an
opening at top which also Serves for the Smoke to pass through. one half
of those houses is apropriated for the Storeing away Dried & pounded
fish which is the principal food The other part next the dore is the part
occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either Side, with a fire
place in the center of this Space each house appeared to be occupied by
about three families; that part which is apropriated for fish was crouded
with that article, and a fiew baskets of burries — I dispatched a
Sufficent number of the good Swimers back for the 2 canoes above the last
rapid and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river Over a
bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes over, on those
rocks I Saw Several large Scaffols on which the Indians dry fish; as this
is out of Season the poles on which they dry those fish are tied up verry
Securely in large bundles and put upon the Scaffolds, I counted 107 Stacks
of dried pounded fish in different places on those rocks which must have
contained io,ooo w. of neet fish, The evening being late I could not
examine the river to my Satisfaction, the Chanel is narrow and compressed
for about 2 miles, when it widens into a deep bason to the Stard. Side,
& again contracts into a narrow chanel divided by a rock I returned
through a rockey open countrey infested with pole-cats to the village
where I met with Capt. Lewis the two old Chiefs who accompanied us &
the party & canoes who had all arrived Safe; the Canoes haveing taken
in Some water at the last rapids. here we formed a Camp near the Village,
The principal Chief from the nation below with Several of his men visited
us, and afforded a favourable oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and
good understanding between this chief and his people and the two Chiefs
who accompanied us which we have the Satisfaction to Say we have
accomplished, as we have every reason to believe and that those two bands
or nations are and will be on the most friendly terms with each other.
gave this Great Chief a Medal and Some other articles, of which he was
much pleased, Peter Crusat played on the violin and the men danced which
delighted the nativs, who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with
those people untill late at night, when every one retired to rest.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805 A Cold morning, we deturmined to attempt the
Chanel after brackfast I took down all the party below the bad places with
a load & one Canoe passed well, a 2d passed well I had men on the
Shore with ropes to throw in in Case any acidence happened at the Whirl
&c — the Inds on the rocks veiwing us the 3rd Canoe nearly filled
with water we got her Safe to Shore. The last Canoe Came over well which
to me was truly gratifying Set out and had not passed 2 mils before 3
Canoes run against a rock in the river with great force no damg. met with
a 2d Chief of the nation from hunting, we Smoked with him and his party
and gave a medal of The Small Size & Set out passed great numbers of
rocks, good water and Came to at a high point of rocks below the mouth of
a Creek which falls in on the Lard Side and head up towards the high Snow
mountain to the S W. this Creek is 20 yards wide and has Some beaver Signs
at its mouth river about 1/2 a mile wide and Crouded with Sea otters,
& drum was Seen this evening we took possession of a high Point of
rocks to defend our Selves in Case the threts of those Indians below
Should be put in execution against us. Sent out Some hunters to look if
any Signs of game, one man killed a Small deer & Several others Seen I
killed a goose, and Suped hartily on venison & goose. Camped on the
rock guard under the hill.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805 a cool morning Capt Lewis and my Self walked down
to See the place the Indians pointed out as the worst place in passing
through the gut, which we found difficuelt of passing without great
danger, but as the portage was impractiable with our large Canoes, we
Concluded to Make a portage of our most valuable articles and run the
canoes thro accordingly on our return divided the party Some to take over
the Canoes, and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a
place on the Chanel below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some others I
had fixed on the Chanel with roapes to throw out to any who Should
unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing through; great number of
Indians viewing us from the high rocks under which we had to pass, the 3
firt Canoes passed thro very well, the 4th nearly filled with water, the
last passed through by takeing in a little water, thus Safely below what I
conceved to be the worst part of this Chanel, felt my Self extreamly
gratified and pleased. we loaded the Canoes & Set out, and had not
proceeded, more than two mile before the unfortunate Canoe which filled
crossing the bad place above, run against a rock and was in great danger
of being lost, This Chanel is through a hard rough black rock, from 50-100
yards wide. Swelling and boiling in a most tremendious maner Several
places on which the Indians inform me they take the Salmon as fast as they
wish; we passed through a deep bason to the Stard Side of 1 mile below
which the River narrows and divided by a rock The Curent we found quit
jentle, here we met with our two old Chiefs who had been to a village
below to Smoke a friendly pipe, and at this place they met the Cheif &
party from the village above on his return from hunting all of whome were
then crossing over their horses, we landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief
whome we found to be a bold pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age
dressd. in a war jacket a cap Legins & mockersons. he gave us Some
meat of which he had but little and informed us he in his rout met with a
war party of Snake Indians from the great river of the S. E. which falls
in a few miles above and had a fight. we gave this Chief a Medal, &c.
a parting Smoke with our two faithful friends the Chiefs who accompanied
us from the head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2
robes and intended to return on horse back) we proceeded on down the water
fine, rocks in every derection for a fiew miles when the river widens and
becoms a butifull jentle Stream of about half a mile wide, Great numbers
of the Sea Orter about those narrows and both below and above. we Came
too, under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below a creek of 20
yards wide and much water, as it was necessary to make Some Selestial
observations we formed our Camp on the top of a high point of rocks, which
forms a kind of fortification in the Point between the river & Creek,
with a boat guard, this Situation we Concieve well Calculated for defence,
and Conveniant to hunt under the foots of the mountain to the West &
S. W. where timber of different kinds grows, and appears to be handsom
Coverts for the Deer, in oke woods, Sent out hunters to examine for game
G. D. Killed a Small Deer & other Saw much Sign, I killed a goose in
the creek which was verry fat — one of the guard saw a Drum fish to
day as he Conceved our Situation well Calculated to defend our Selves from
any designs of the natives, Should They be enclined to attack us.
This little Creek heads in the range of mountains which run S S W & N
W for a long distance on which is Scattering pine white Oake &c. The
Pinical of the round toped mountain which we Saw a Short distance below
the forks of this river is S. 43° W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at this
time toped with Snow we called this the falls mountain or Timm mountain.
The face of the Countrey, on both Side of the river above and about the
falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain but a Small preportion
of erbage, no timber a fiew bushes excepted, The nativs at the upper falls
raft their timber down Towarnehooks River & those at the narrows take
theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows from this Creek, and
Carry it over land 3 miles to their houses &c. at the mouth of this
creek Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a Snare Set in the willows
The Snars of which I saw Several made for to catch wolves, are made as
follows vz: a long pole which will Spring is made fast with bark to a
willow, on the top of this pole a String
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th 1805 Saturday a fine morning Sent out Six men to hunt deer
& Collect rozin to Pitch our Canoes, had all our articles put out to
dry — Canoes drawed out and repaired, the injories recved in drawing
them over the rocks, every article wet in the Canoe which nearly Sunk
yesterday-
In the evening 2 Chief and 15 men came over in a Single Canoe, those Chf's
proved to be the 2 great Chiefs of the tribes above, one gave me a dressed
Elk Skin, and gave us Som deer meet, and 2 Cakes of white bread made of
white roots, we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small Size a red Silk
handkerchief & a knife to the 1st a arm ban & a pin of Paint &
a Comb to his Son a Piece of riben tied to a tin gorget and 2 hams of
Venison They deturmined to Stay with us all night, we had a fire made for
them & one man played on the violin which pleased them much my Servent
danced — our hunters killed five Deer, 4 verry large gray Squirrels, a
goose & Pheasent, one man giged a Salmon trout which we had fried in a
little Bears oil which a Chief gave us yesterday and I think the finest
fish I ever tasted, Saw great numbers of white Crams flying in Different
directions verry high. The river has rose nearly 8 Inches to day and has
every appearance of a tide, from what Cause I can't Say — our hunters
Saw Elk & bear signs to day in the white oake woods the Country to the
Lard is broken Country thinly timbered with pine and white oake, a
mountain which I must call Timm or falls Mountain rises verry high and
bears to S W the Course it has bore Sinc we first Saw it. our men danced
to night. dried all our wet articles and repaired our Canoes
The flees my Self and the men got on them in passing thro the plains the
Indians had lately lived in Lodges on the Lard. Side at the falls, are
very troublesom and with every exertion the men Can't get rid of them,
perticilarly as they have no clothes to change those which they wore Those
Indians are at Ware with the Snake Indians on the river which falls in a
few miles above this and have lately had a battle with them, their loss I
cannot lern.
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th Saturday 1805 A fine morning Sent Six men out to hunt Deer,
and Collect rozin to pitch the Canoes which has become verry leakey, by
frequently hauling them over rocks &c as well Striking rocks
frequently in passing down. all our articles we have exposed to the Sun to
Dry; and the Canoes drawn out and turned up — maney of our Stores
entirely Spoiled by being repeetedly wet; A number of Indians came to the
Oposit Side of the river in the fore part of the day and Shew that they
were anxious to Cross to us, we did not think proper to cross them in our
Canoes and did not Send for them. in the evening two Chiefs and 15 men
came over in a Small Canoe, those two Chiefs proved to be the two
Principal Chiefs of the tribes above at the falls, and above, who was out
hunting at the time we passed their bands; one of those Chiefs made Capt
Lewis and my Self each a Small present of Deer meat, and Small Cakes of
white bread made of roots. we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small
Size a red Silk handkerchief, arm band, Knife & a piece of Paint, and
acknowledged them as chiefs; as we thought it necessary at this time to
treat those people verry friendly & ingratiate our Selves with them,
to insure us a kind & friendly reception on our return, we gave Small
presents to Several, and half a Deer to them to eate. we had also a fire
made for those people to Sit around in the middle of our Camp, and Peter
Crusat Played on the violin, which pleased those nativs exceedingly. the
two Chiefs and Several men deturmined to delay all night (yorked Danced
for the Inds) with us all the others returned, leaving the horses for
those who Staied on the opposit Side. our hunters returned in the evening
Killed five Deer, four verry large grey Squirels and a grouse. one of the
guard at the river guiged a Salmon Trout, which we had fried in a little
Bears Oil which the Chief we passed below the narrows gave us; this I
thought one of the most delicious fish I have ever tasted Great numbers of
white Crain flying in different Directions verry high — The river rose
8 Inches today from what cause I cannot Say certainly, as the tides cannot
effect the river here as there is a falls below, I conjecture that the
rise is owing to the winds which has Set up the river for 24 hours past.
our hunters inform that the countrey back is broken, Stoney and thinly
timbered with pine and White Oake. They Saw Elk & Bear Sign in the
mountains. Dried all our wet articles and repared our Canoes to day, and
the Party amused themselves at night danceing. The Flees which the party
got on them at the upper & great falls, are very troublesom and
dificuelt to get rid of, perticularly as the men have not a Change of
Clothes to put on, they Strip off their Clothes and kill the flees,
dureing which time they remain neckid.
The nations in the vicinity of this place is at War with the Snake Indians
who they Say are noumerous and live on the river we passed above the falls
on the Same Side on which we have encamped, and the nearest town is about
four days march they pointed nearly S. E. and informed that they had a
battle with those Inds. laterly, their loss I could not assertain
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805 a verry windy night and morning wind from the
West and hard, Send out hunters and they killed 4 deer 1 pheasent and a
Squirel the 2 Chiefs and party Continue with us, we treat them well give
them to eate & Smoke, they were joined by Seven others, from below who
Stayed about 3 hours and returned down the river in a pet, Soon after the
Chiefs deturmined to go home we had them put across the river the wind
verry high, we took a vocabelary of the Languages of the 2 nations, the
one liveing at the Falls call themselves E-nee-shur The other resideing at
the levels or narrows in a village on the Std. Side call themselves
E-chee-lute not withstanding those people live only 6 miles apart, but
fiew words of each others language — the language of those above
having great Similarity with those tribes of flat heads we have passed — all
have the Clucking tone anexed which is predomint. above, all flatten the
heads of their female children near the falls, and maney above follow the
Same Custom The language of the Che-luc-it-to-quar a fiew miles below is
different from both in a Small degree. The wind increased in the evening
and blew verry hard from the Same point W. day fair and Cold — The
Creek at which we are Encamped is Called by the natives-Que-nett Some
words with Shabono about his duty — The pinical of Falls mountain
bears S 43° W. about 35 miles
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805 Wind hard from the west all the last night and
this morning. Some words with Shabono our interpreter about his duty. Sent
out Several hunters who brought in four Deer, one Grouse & a Squirel.
The two Chiefs & party was joined by Seven others from below in two
canoes, we gave them to eate & Smoke Several of those from below
returned down the river in a bad humer, haveing got into this pet by being
prevented doeing as they wished with our articles which was then exposed
to dry — we took a Vocabelary of the Languages of those two chiefs
which are verry different notwithstanding they are Situated within Six
miles of each other, Those at the great falls Call themselves E-nee-shur
and are understood on the river above. Those at the Great Narrows Call
themselves Eche-lute and is understood below, maney words of those people
are the Same, and Common to all the flat head Bands which we have passed
on the river, all have the clucking tone anexed which is prodomonate
above. all the Bands flatten the heads of the female Children, and maney
of the male children also. Those two Chief leave us this evening and
returned to their bands, the wind verry high & from the West, day
proved fair and Cool.
The nativs Call this Creek near which we are encamped-Que-nett.
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805 a windey morning loaded our Canoes and Set out at
9 oClock a m 3 Canoes Came down from the Village above & 2 from that
below in one of those Canoes a Indian wore his hair cued, and had on a
round hat. Wind from West
Those Indians have a musket a Sword, and Several Brass Tea kitties which
they appear to be verry fond of we purchased of those people five Small
dogs, and Some Dried beries & white bread of roots, the wind rose and
we were obliged to lie by about 1 mile below on the Lard. Side North 1
mile to a rock Island on the Stard. Side. we had not landed long eer an
Indian Canoe Came from below with 3 Indians in it, those Indians make
verry nice Canoes of Pine. Thin with aporns & Carve on the head
imitation of animals & other heads; The Indians above Sacrafise the
property of the Deceased to wit horses Canoes, bowls Basquets of which
they make great use to hold water boil their meet &c. &c. great
many Indians came down from the uppr Village & Sat with us, Smoked,
rained all the evenig & blew hard from the West encamped on the Lard
Side opsd. an Rock in a verry Bad place
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805 A cool windey morning we loaded our Canoes and
Set out at 9 oClock, a.m. as we were about to Set out 3 canoes from above
and 2 from below came to view us in one of those Canoes I observed an
Indian with round hat jacket & wore his hair cued we proceeded on
river inclosed on each Side in high Clifts of about 90 feet of loose dark
coloured rocks at four miles we landed at a village of 8 houses on the
Stard. Side under Some rugid rocks, Those people call themselves
Chil-luckit-tequaw, live in houses Similar to those described, Speake
Somewhat different language with maney words the Same & understand
those in their neighbourhood Cap Lewis took a vocabilary of this Language
I entered one of the houses in which I Saw a British musket, a cutlass and
Several brass Tea kittles of which they appeared verry fond Saw them
boiling fish in baskets with Stones, I also Saw figures of animals &
men Cut & painted on boards in one Side of the house which they
appeared to prize, but for what purpose I will not venter to Say,-. here
we purchased five Small Dogs, Some dried buries, & white bread made of
roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to lie by all day at 1 mile below
on the Lard. Side. we had not been long on Shore before a Canoe came up
with a man woman & 2 children, who had a fiew roots to Sell, Soon
after maney others joined them from above, The wind which is the cause of
our delay, does not retard the motions of those people at all, as their
canoes are calculated to ride the highest waves, they are built of white
cedar or Pine verry light wide in the middle and tapers at each end, with
aperns, and heads of animals carved on the bow, which is generally raised.
Those people make great use of Canoes, both for transpotation and fishing,
they also use of bowls & baskets made of Grass & Splits to hold
water and boil their fish & meat. Maney of the nativs of the last
Village Came down Set and Smoke with us, wind blew hard accompanied with
rain all the evening, our Situation not a verry good one for an
encampment, but Such as it is we are obliged to put up with, the harbor is
a Safe one, we encamped on the Sand wet and disagreeable one Deer killed
this evening, and another wounded near our Camp.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning wind Still from th West not
hard, we Set out at day light proceeded on about 5 miles and Came too at a
Lodge of a Chief which we made at the upper village at th falls about his
house there is Six others This chief gave us to eate Sackacommis burries
Hasel nuts fish Pounded, and a kind of Bread made of roots — we gave
to the Women pices of ribon, which they appeared pleased with — those
houses are large 25 feet Sqr and contain abt. 8 men, Say 30 inhabitents
Those people are friendly gave us to eate fish Beries, nuts bread of roots
& Drid beries and we Call this the friendly Village We purchased 12
dogs of them & 4 Sacks of Pounded fish, and Some fiew Dried Berries
and proceeded on at 4 miles further we landed to Smoke a pipe with the
people of a village of 11 houses we found those people also friendly Their
Village is Situated imediately below the mouth of a River of 60 yards
water which falls in on the Stard. Side and heads in the mountains to the
N. & N, E, the Indians inform us that this river is long and full of
falls no Salmon pass up it. They also inform that 10 nations lives on this
river by hunting and on buries &c. The Countrey begin to be thinly
timbered with Pine & low white oake verry rocky and hilley — We
purchased at this vilg 4 dogs — at the end of this Course is 3 rocks,
in the river and a rock point from the Lard. the middle rock is large and
has a number of graves on it we call it the Sepulchar Island. The last
River we call Caterack River from the number of falls which the Indians
inform is on it The Indians are afraid to hunt or be on th Lard Side of
this Columbia river for fear of the Snake Ind. who reside on a fork of
this river which falls in above the falls a good Situation for winter
quarters if game can be had is just below Sepulchar rock on the Lard Side,
high & pine and oake timber the rocks ruged above, good hunting
Countrey back, as it appears from the river Indian village opsd. Of 2
Lodgs river 1/2 mile wide at rocks
The robes of those Indians are, of wolf deer Elk, wild cats, Some fox,
& Deer I saw one of the mountain Sheep, th wool thick and long Corse
hair on the back, resembling bristles — those animals live among the
rocks in those mountains below, orter is much valued by those people they
Cew their hair on each Side with it and ware it about the necks with the
tail in front
Came too at 3 miles on this Course at 3 Houses of flatheads and Encamped
on the Stard. Side, a Pond lies back of those people in which we Saw great
numbers of the Small Swan. we Purchased of those people 3 Dogs they gave
us High bush cramburies, bread of roots and roots, they were pleased with
musick of th violin.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805 A cloudy morning wind from the West but not
hard, we Set out at day light, and proceeded on about five miles Came too
on the Stard. Side at a village of 7 houses built in the Same form and
materials of those above, here we found the Chief we had Seen at the long
narrows named ____
we entered his lodge and he gave us to eate Pounded fish, bread made of
roots, Filberts nuts, & the berries of Sackecomme. we gave to each
woman of the lodge a brace of Ribon of which they were much pleased. each
of those houses may be calculated to contain 8 men and 30 Soles, they are
hospitable and good humered Speak the Same language of the inhabitants of
the last village, we call this the friendly village. I observed in the
lodge of the Chief Sundery articles which must have been precured from the
white people, Such a Scarlet & blue Cloth Sword Jacket & hat. I
also observed two wide Split boards with images on them Cut and painted in
emitation of a man; I pointed to this image and asked a man to what use he
put them to, he Said Something the only word I understood was "good," and
then Steped to the image and took out his Bow & quiver to Show me, and
Some other of his war emplemints, from behind it.
The Chief then directed his wife to hand him his medison bag which he
opened and Showed us 14 fingers which he Said was the fingers of his
enemies which he had taken in war, and pointed to S. E. from which
direction I concluded they were Snake Indians; this is the first Instance
I ever knew of the Indians takeing any other trofea of their exploits off
the dead bodies of their Enimies except the Scalp. — The Chief painted
those fingers with Several other articles which was in his bag red and
Securely put them back, haveing first mad a Short harrang which I Suppose
was bragging of what he had done in war. we purchased 12 Dogs and 4 Sacks
of fish, & Some fiew ascid berries, after brackfast we proceeded on,
the mountains are high on each Side, containing Scattering pine white oake
& under groth, hill Sides Steep and rockey; at 4 miles lower we
observed a Small river falling in with great rapidity on the Stard. Side
below which is a village of 11 houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with
the nativs and examine the mouth of the river, which I found to be 60
yards wide rapid and deep, The inhabitants of the village are friendly and
Chearfull; those people inform us also those at the last village that this
little river is long and full of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from
N. N. E. that ten nations live on this river and its waters, on buries,
and what game they Can kill with their Bow & arrows
we purchased 4 dogs and Set out — (this village is the of the Same
nation of the one we last passed) and proceeded on The Countrey on each
side begin to be thicker timbered with Pine and low white Oake; verry
rockey and broken. passed three large rocks in The river the middle rock
is large long and has Several Squar vaults on it. we call this rockey
Island the Sepulchar — The last river we passed we Shall Call the
Cataract River from the number of falls which the Indians say is on it-
passed 2 Lodges of Indians a Short distance below the Sepulchar Island on
the Stard. Side river wide, at 4 mile passed 2 houses on the Stard. Side,
Six miles lower passed 4 houses above the mouth of a Small river 40 yards
wide on the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of those
houses; those are the first houses which we have Seen on the South Side of
the Columbia River, (and the axess to those dificuelt) for fear of the
approach of their common enemies the Snake Indians, passed 14 houses on
the Std. Side Scattered on the bank — from the mouth of this little
river which we shall Call Labeasche River, the falls mountain is South and
the top is covered with Snow. one mile below pass the mouth of a large
rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit to a large Sand bar, in this
creek the Indians above take their fish, here we Saw Several canoes, which
induced us to call this Canoe Creek it is 28 yards wide, about 4 miles
lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull cascade falling over a rock of
about 100 feet, a Short distance lower passed 4 Indian houses on the Lard.
Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew miles further we came too at 3 houses on
Stard. Side, back of which is a pond in which I Saw Great numbers of Small
Swan, Capt. Lewis and I went into the houses of those people who appeared
Somewhat Surprised at first Their houses are built on the Same
Construction of those above, Speak the Same language and Dress in the Same
way, robes of the Skins of wolves Deer, Elk, wild cat, or Loucirvia &
fox, also Saw a mountain Sheap Skin the wool of which is long, thick,
& corse with long corse hare on the top of the neck and back Something
resembling bristles of a goat, the skin was of white hare, those animals
these people inform me by Signs live in the mountains among the rocks,
their horns are Small and Streight, Orter Skins are highly prised among
those people as well as those on the river above, They Cue their hare
which is divided on each Sholder, and also ware Small Strips about their
necks with the tale hanging down in front. — Those people gave us,
High bush cram berries, bread made of roots, and roots; we purchased three
dogs for the party to eate; we Smoked with the men, all muche pleased with
the violin-. Here the mountains are high on each Side, those to the Lard.
Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more timber than above and of
greater variety.
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A Cloudy morning. Some little rain all night,
after eating a Slight brackfast of venison we Set out.
The rocks project into the river in maney places and have the appearance
of haveing fallen from the highe hills those projected rocks is common
& Small Bays below & nitches in the rocks passed 4 Cascades or
Small Streams falling from the mountains on Lard. This part of the river
resembles a pond partly dreaned leaving many Stumps bare both in & out
of the water, current about 1 mil pr. Hour
The bottom above the river is about 3/4 of a mile wide and rich, Some deer
& bear Sign — rained moderately all day we are wet and cold. Saw
Several Specis of wood which I never Saw before, Some resembling Beech
& others Poplar. — Day dark and disagreeable
I with 2 men proceeded down the river 2 miles on an old Indian parth to
view the rapids, which I found impassable for our canoes without a
portage, the roade bad at 1 mile I saw a Town of Houses laterly abandoned
on an elevated Situation opsd. a 2d Shute, returned at dark. Capt. Lewis
and 5 men went to the Town found them kind they gave Beries & nuts,
but he cd. get nothin from them in the way of Information, the greater
part of those people out collecting roots below, rained all the evining
Those people have one gun & maney articles which they have purchased
of the white people their food is principally fish
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A cool morning, a moderate rain all the last
night, after eating a partial brackfast of venison we Set out passed
Several places where the rocks projected into the river & have the
appearance of haveing Seperated from the mountains and fallen promiscuisly
into the river, Small nitches are formed in the banks below those
projecting rocks which is comon in this part of the river, Saw 4 Cascades
caused by Small Streams falling from the mountains on the Lard. Side, a
remarkable circumstance in this part of the river is, the Stumps of pine
trees are in maney places are at Some distance in the river, and gives
every appearance of the rivers being darned up below from Some cause which
I am not at this time acquainted with, the Current of the river is also
verry jentle not exceeding 11/2 mile pr. hour and about 3/4 of a mile in
width. Some rain, we landed above the mouth of a Small river on the Stard.
Side and Dined J. Shields Killed a Buck & Labiech 3 Ducks, here the
river widens to about one mile large Sand bar in the middle, a Great rock
both in and out of the water, large Stones, or rocks are also permiscuisly
Scattered about in the river, this day we Saw Some fiew of the large
Buzzard Capt. Lewis Shot at one, those Buzzards are much larger than any
other of ther Spece or the largest Eagle white under part of their wings
&c. The bottoms above the mouth of this little river is rich covered
with grass & firn & is about 3/4 of a mile wide rich and rises
gradually, below the river (which is 60 yards wide above its mouth) the
Countery rises with Steep assent. we call this little river New Timbered
river from a Speces of Ash which grows on its banks of a verry large and
different from any we had before Seen, and a timber resembling the beech
in bark but different in its leaf which is Smaller and the tree smaller.
passed maney large rocks in the river and a large creek on the Stard. Side
in the mouth of which is an Island, passed on the right of 3 Islands near
the Stard. Side, and landed on an Island close under the Stard. Side at
the head of the great Shute, and a little below a village of 8 large
houses on a Deep bend on the Stard. Side, and opposit 2 Small Islands
imediately in the head of the Shute, which Islands are covered with Pine,
maney large rocks also, in the head of the Shute. Ponds back of the
houses, and Countrey low for a Short distance. The day proved Cloudy dark
and disagreeable with Some rain all day which kept us wet. The Countary a
high mountain on each Side thickly Covered with timber, Such as Spruc,
Pine, Cedar, Oake Cotton &c. &c. I took two men and walked down
three miles to examine the Shute and river below proceeded along an old
Indian path, passd. an old village at 1 mile on an ellevated Situation of
this village contained verry large houses built in a different form from
any I had Seen, and laterly abandoned, and the most of the boads put into
a pond of water near the village, as I conceived to drown the flees, which
was emencely noumerous about the houses-. I found by examonation that we
must make a portage of the greater perpotion of our Stores 21/2 miles, and
the Canoes we Could haul over the rocks, I returned at Dark Capt Lewis and
5 men had just returned from the village, Cap L. informed me that he found
the nativs kind, they gave him berries, nuts & fish to eate; but he
could get nothing from them in the way of information. The greater part of
the inhabitants of this village being absent down the river Some distance
Colecting roots Capt. L. Saw one gun and Several articles which must have
been precured from the white people. a wet disagreeable evening, the only
wood we could get to burn on this little Island on which we have encamped
is the newly discovered Ash, which makes a tolerable fire. we made fifteen
miles to daye.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805 a cloudey raney morning I proceed down the
river to view it more at leasure, I took Jos. Fields & Peter Crusat
and proceeded on down, Send Crusat back at 2 ms. to examine the rapid near
the shore & I proceeded on down about 10 miles to a very high rock in
a bottom on the Stard. opsd. 2 Islands covered with timber on which I saw
Inds. at a distance; found the river rocky for 6 miles, after which the
Current became uniform — at 1 mile I passed an old deserted village on
a Pond on a high Situation of 8 Houses — at 31/2 miles one house the
only remt. of an antient Village 1/2 a mile lower I saw 8 Vaults for the
Dead which was nearly Square 8 feet Closely Covered with broad boads
Curiously engraved, the bones in Some of those vaults wer 4 feet thick, in
others the Dead was yet layed Side of each other nearly East & west,
raped up & bound Securley in robes, great numbers of trinkets Brass
Kittle, Sea Shells, Iron, Pan Hare &c. &c. was hung about the
vaults and great many wooden gods, or Images of men Cut in wood, Set up
round the vaults, Some of those So old and worn by time that they were
nearly worn out of Shape, and Some of those vaults So old that they were
roted entirely to the ground — notwithstanding they wood is of Pine
& _____ or Seder as also the wooden gods
I can not learn certainly if those people worship those woden emiges, they
have them in conspicuous parts of their houses at 5 miles I passed 4 large
houses on the Stard Side a little above the last rapid and opposit a large
Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side — The enhabitents of
those houses had left them closely Shut up, they appeared to Contn. a
great deel of property and Provisions Such as those people use, I did not
disturb any thing about those houses, but proceed on down below the rapid
which I found to be the last, a large village has at Some period been on
the Stard. Side below this rapid The bottom is high Stoney and about 2
miles wide covered with grass, here C is the head of a large Island in
high water, at this time no water passes on the Stard. Side I walked thro
this Island which I found to be verry rich, open & covered with
Strawberry vines, and has greatly the appearance of having at Some period
been Cultivated, The natives has dug roots in Some parts of this Isld.
which is about 3 miles long & 1 Wide, a Small Island covered with
timber opposit the lower point no water runs on the Stard. Side. of it.
below and in the middle of the river is a large Island Covered with tall
trees opposit the Strawberry Island on its Stard. Side a creek falls in
which has no running water at present, it has the appearanc of throwing
out emense torents — I saw 5 Indians in a canoe below — Jo. killed
a Sand hill Crane & we returned by the same rout to camp at the grand
Shute where I found Several Indians, I Smoked. Two canoes loaded with fish
for the Trade below Came down & unloaded the after noon fare
Those Indians Cut off the hands of those they kill & proserve the
fingers.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805 A Cloudy rainey disagreeable morning I
proceeded down the river to view with more attention we had to pass on the
river below, the two men with me Jo. Fields & Peter Crusat proceeded
down to examine the rapids the Great Shute which commenced at the Island
on which we encamped Continud with great rapidity and force thro a narrow
chanel much compressd. and interspersed with large rocks for 1/2 a mile,
at a mile lower is a verry Considerable rapid at which place the waves are
remarkably high, and proceeded on in a old Indian parth 21/2 miles by land
thro a thick wood & hill Side, to the river where the Indians make a
portage, from this place I dispatched Peter Crusat (our principal
waterman) back to follow the river and examine the practibility of the
Canoes passing, as the rapids appeared to continue down below as far as I
could See, I with Jo. Fields proceeded on, at 1/2 a mile below the end of
the portage passed a house where there had been an old town for ages past
as this house was old Decayed and a plat of flees I did not enter it,
about 1/2 a mile below this house in a verry thick part of the woods is 8
vaults which appeared Closely Covered and highly deckerated with
orniments. Those vaults are all nearly the Same Sise and form 8 feet
Square, 5 feet high, Sloped a little So as to convey off the rain made of
Pine or Cedar boards Closely Connected & Scurely Covered with wide
boards, with a Dore left in The East Side which is partially Stoped with
wide boards curiously engraved. In Several of those vaults the dead bodies
wre raped up verry Securely in Skins tied around with cords of grass &
bark, laid on a mat, all east & west and Some of those vaults had as
maney as 4 bodies laying on the Side of each other. the other Vaults
Containing bones only, Some contained bones for the debth of 4 feet. on
the tops and on poles attached to those vaults hung Brass kitties &
frying pans pearced thro their bottoms, baskets, bowls of wood, Sea Shels,
Skins, bits of Cloth, Hair, bags of Trinkets & Small peices of bone
&c and independant of the curious ingraveing and Paintings on the
boards which formed the vaults I observed Several wooden Images, cut in
the figure of men and Set up on the Sides of the vaults all round. Some of
those So old and worn by time, that they were nearly out of Shape, I also
observed the remains of Vaults rotted entirely into the ground and covered
with moss. This must bee the burrying place for maney ages for the
inhabitants of those rapids, the vaults are of the most lasting timber
Pine & Cedar — I cannot Say certainly that those nativs worship
those wooden idols as I have every reason to believe they do not; as they
are Set up in the most conspicious parts of their houses, and treated more
like orniments than objects of aderation. at 2 miles lower & 5 below
our Camp I passed a village of 4 large houses abandend by the nativs, with
their Bores bared up, I looked into those houses and observed as much
property as is usial in the houses of those people which induced me to
conclude that they wre at no great distance, either hunting or Colecting
roots, to add to their winter Subsistance. from a Short distance below the
vaults the mountain which is but low on the Stard. Side leave the river,
and a leavel Stoney open bottom Suckceeds on the Said Std. Side for a
great Distance down, the mountains high and rugid on the Lard Side this
open bottom is about 2 miles a Short distance below this village is a bad
Stoney rapid and appears to be the last in view I observed at this lower
rapid the remains of a large and antient Village which I could plainly
trace by the Sinks in which they had formed their houses, as also those in
which they had buried their fish — from this rapid to the lower end of
the portage the river is Crouded with rocks of various Sizes between which
the water passes with great velociety createing in maney places large
Waves, an Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side occupies about half
the distance the lower point of which is at this rapid. immediately below
this rapid the high water passes through a narrow Chanel through the
Stard. Bottom forming an Island of 3 miles Long & one wide, I walked
through this Island which I found to be verry rich land, and had every
appearance of haveing been at Some distant period Cultivated. at this time
it is Covered with grass intersperced with Strawberry vines. I observed
Several places on this Island where the nativs had dug for roots and from
its lower point I observed 5 Indians in a Canoe below the upper point of
an Island near the middle of the river Covered with tall timber, which
indued me to believe that a village was at no great distanc below, I could
not See any rapids below in the extent of my view which was for a long
distance down the river, which from the last rapids widened and had everry
appearance of being effected by the tide, — I deturmind to return to
Camp 10 miles distant, a remarkable high detached rock Stands in a bottom
on the Stard Side near the lower point of this Island on the Stard. Side
about 800 feet high and 400 paces around, we call the Beaten rock. a Brook
falls into the narrow Chanel which forms the Strawberry Island, which at
this time has no running water, but has every appearance of dischargeing
emence torrents &c. &c. Jo. Fields Shot a Sand hill Crane. I
returned by the Same rout on an Indian parth passing up on the N W. Side
of the river to our Camp at the Great Shute. found Several Indians from
the village, I Smoked with them; Soon after my return two Canoes loaded
with fish & Bear grass for the trade below, came down,from the village
at the mouth of the Catterack River, they unloaded and turned their Canoes
up Side down on the beech, & camped under a Shelveing rock below our
Camp
one of the men Shot a goose above this Great Shute, which was floating
into the Shute when an Indian observed it, plunged into the water &
Swam to the Goose and brought in on Shore, at the head of the Suck, as
this Indian richly earned the goose I Suffered him to keep it which he
about half picked and Spited it up with the guts in it to roste.
This Great Shute or falls is about 1/2 a mile with the water of this great
river Compressed within the Space of 150 paces in which there is great
numbers of both large and Small rocks, water passing with great velocity
forming & boiling in a most horriable manner, with a fall of about 20
feet, below it widens to about 200 paces and current gentle for a Short
distance. a Short distance above is three Small rockey Islands, and at the
head of those falls, three Small rockey Islands are Situated Crosswise the
river, Several rocks above in the river & 4 large rocks in the head of
the Shute; those obstructions together with the high Stones which are
continually brakeing loose from the mountain on the Stard Side and roleing
down into the Shute aded to those which brake loose from those Islands
above and lodge in the Shute, must be the Cause of the rivers darning up
to Such a distance above, where it Shows Such evidant marks of the Common
current of the river being much lower than at the present day
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805 a verry cold morning wind from N. E and hard Set
all hands packing the loading over th portage which is below the Grand
Shutes and is 940 yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides
The Indians who came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a
portage of 21/2 miles to avoid a 2d Shute. four of them took their canoes
over the 1st portage and run the 2d Shute, Great numbers of Sea otters,
they are So Cautious that I with deficuelty got a Shute at one to day,
which I must have killed but Could not get him as he Sunk
We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes
being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks, obliged
us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us three Indian
canoes loaded with pounded fish for the &c. trade down the river
arrived at the upper end of the portage this evening. I Can't lern whether
those Indians trade with white people or Inds. below for the Beeds &
copper, which they are So fond of — They are nearly necked, prefuring
beeds to anything — Those Beeds they trafick with Indians Still higher
up this river for Skins robes &c. &c. The Indians on those waters
do not appear to be Sickly, Sore eyes are Common and maney have lost their
eyes, Some one and, maney both, they have bad teeth, and the greater
perpotion of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the gums, They
are rather Small high Cheeks, women Small and homely, maney of them had
Sweled legs, large about the knees, owing to the position in which they
Set on their hams, They are nearly necked only a piece of leather tied
about their breech and a Small robe which generally comes to a little
below their wastes and Scercely Sufficely large to cover arround them when
confined — they are all fond of Clothes but more So of Beeds
perticularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the extreme both in
their Coockery and in their houses.
Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from the
earth-under which they Store their Provisions — Their houses is about
33 feet to 50 feet Square, the Bore of which is about 30 Inc. high and 16
Inches wide in this form cut in a wide pine board they have maney imeges
Cut in wood, generally, in the figure of a man — Those people are high
with what they have to Sell, and Say the white people below Give them
great Prices for what they Sell to them. Their nose are all Pierced, and
the wear a white Shell maney of which are 2 Inch long pushed thro the nose — all
the women have flat heads pressed to almost a point at top The press the
female childrens heads between 2 bords when young-untill they form the
Skul as they wish it which is generally verry flat. This amongst those
people is considered as a great mark of butyand is practised in all the
tribes we have passed on this river more or less. men take more of the
drugery off the women than is common with Indians
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805 A verry Cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The
Indians who arrived last evining took their Canoes on ther Sholders and
Carried them below the Great Shute, we Set about takeing our Small Canoe
and all the baggage by land 940 yards of bad Slippery and rockey way The
Indians we discoverd took ther loading the whole length of the portage
21/2 miles, to avoid a Second Shute which appears verry bad to pass, and
thro which they passed with their empty canoes. Great numbers of Sea
Otters, they are So cautious that I with dificuelty got a Shot at one to
day, which I must have killed, but could not get him as he Sunk
we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we got
the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles placed
across from one rock to another, and at Some places along partial Streams
of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks &c. three of them
recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have them repared.
Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage, Some of the men
accompanied by those from the village came down to Smoke with us, they
appear to Speak the Same language with a little different axcent
I visited the Indian Village found that the Construction of the houses
Similar to those abov described, with this difference only that they are
larger Say from 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above the
earth, and nearly as much below The Dores in the Same form and Size cut in
the wide post which Supports one end of the ridge pole and which is carved
and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics Those people gave
me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish, and Sold me a hat of
ther own taste without a brim, and baskets in which they hold their water — Their
beads are raised about 41/2 feet, under which they Store away their dried
fish, between the part on which they lie and the back wall they Store away
their roots burries nuts and valuable articles on mats, which are Spread
also around the fire place which is Sunk about one foot lower than the
bottom fore of the house, this fire place is about 8 feet long and Six
feet wide Secured with a fraim those houses are calculated for 4, 5 &
6 families, each familey haveing a nice painted ladder to assend up to
their beads. I Saw in those houses Several wooden Images all cut in
imitation of men, but differently fasioned and placed in the most
conspicious parts of the houses, probably as an orniment I cannot lern
certainly as to the traffick those Inds. carry on below, if white people
or the indians who trade with the Whites who are either Settled or visit
the mouth of this river. I believe mostly with the latter as their
knowledge of the white people appears to be verry imperfect, and the
articles which they appear to trade mostly i e Pounded fish, Beargrass,
and roots; cannot be an object of comerce with furin merchants — however
they git in return for those articles Blue and white beeds copper Tea
Kitties, brass arm bands, some Scarlet and blue robes and a fiew articles
of old clothes, they prefer beeds to any thing and will part with the last
mouthfull or articles of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds,
those beeds the trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for roabs,
Skins, cha-pel-el bread, beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick with
those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, Pashico roots & robes
&c.
The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy, Some have turners
on different parts of their bodies, and Sore and weak Eyes are common,
maney have lost their Sight entirely great numbers with one eye out and
frequently the other verry weak; This misfortune I must again asscribe to
the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common with indians,
maney have worn their teeth down and Some quite into their gums, this I
cannot Satisfactorily account for it, do ascribe it in some measure to
their method of eateing, their food, roots pertiularly, which they make
use of as they are taken out of the earth frequently nearly covered with
Sand, I have not Seen any of their long roots offered for Sale clear of
Sand. They are rether below the Common Size high cheeks womin Small and
homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs, and their knees remarkably large
which I ascribe to the method in which they Sit on their hams-go nearly
necked wareing only a piece of leather tied about their breast which falls
down nearly as low as the waste, a Small roabe about 3 feet Square, and a
piece of leather tied about their breach, They have all flat heads in this
quarter They are tirty in the extream, both in their person and cooking,
ware their hare loose hanging in every direction. They asc high prices for
what they Sell and Say that the white people below give great prices for
every thing &c.
The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they have a long
tapered piece of white shell or wampum put through the nose, Those Shells
are about 2 inches in length. I observed in maney of the villeages which I
have passed, the heads of the female children in the press for the purpose
of compressing their heads in their infancy into a certain form, between
two boards
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
Novr. 2d Saturday 1805 Meridian altitude 59° 45′ 45″ made a portage of
about 11/2 miles with half of the Baggage, and run the rapid with the
Canoes without much damage, one Struck a rock & Split a little, and 3
others took in Some water 7 Squars Came over the portage loaded with Dried
fish & Beargrass, Soon after 4 men Came down in a Canoe after takeing
brackfast, & after taking a meridian altitude we Set out Passed 2 bad
rapids one at 2 & the other at 4 mile below the Isd on Lard. and upper
end of Strawberry Island on the Stard. Side from the Creek end of last
Course
We Labiech killed 14 Geese & a Brant, Collins one Jos. Fields & R
3 those gees are much Smaller than Common, and have white under their
rumps & around the tale, The tide rises here a fiew 9 Inches, I cannot
assertain the prosise hite it rises at the last rapid or at this placeof
Camp.
The Indians we left at the portage passed us this evening one other Canoe
Come up
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
November 2nd Saturday 1805 Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly
the danger appearing too great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched
all the men who could not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below,
I also walked to the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed
untill everry articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe. here we
brackfast and took a Meridn. altitude 59°45'45" about the time we were
Setting out 7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass
neetly bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a
large canoe. passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposit the
lower point of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses
on the Stard. Bank, a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry
Island, which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this
Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin
rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on the
Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated between 2
Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those above; here the
river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more extensive and
thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each Side, with Pine,
Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder. at 17 miles passed
a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet high and 80 feet
Diamuter, proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of about 2 miles wide, in
which the tide has its effect as high as the Beaten rock or the Last
rapids at Strawberry Island, — Saw great numbers of waterfowl of
Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey brants, ducks of
various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14 brantjoseph Fields 3
& Collins one. we encamped under a high projecting rock on the Lard.
Side, here the mountains leave the river on each Side, which from the
great Shute to this place is high and rugid; thickly Covered with timber
principalley of the Pine Species. The bottoms below appear extensive and
thickly Covered with wood. river here about 21/2 miles wide. Seven Indians
in a Canoe on their way down to trade with the nativs below, encamp with
us, those we left at the portage passed us this evening and proceeded on
down The ebb tide rose here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here
much higher — we made 29 miles to day from the Great Shute-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805 The fog So thick this morning we did not think it
prudent to Set out untill 10 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry
well, accompanied by our Indian friends — This morning Labich killed 3
Geese flying Collins killed a Duck — The water rose Inches last night
the effects of tide. The Countrey has a handsom appearance in advance no
mountains extensive bottoms — the water Shallow for a great distance
from Shore-. The fog continued thick untill 12 oClock, we Coasted, and
halted at the mouth of a large river on the Lard Side, This river throws
out emence quanty of Sand and is verry Shallow, th narrowest part 200
yards wide bold Current, much resembling the river Plat, Several Islands
about 1 mile up and has a Sand bar of 3 miles in extent imedeately in its
mouth, discharging it waters by 2 mouths, and Crowding its Corse Sands So
as to throw the Columbian waters on its Nothern banks, & confdg it to
1/2 ms. in width Passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side above, a large
Creek opposit qk Sand River on the Stard. Side, extensive bottoms and low
hilley Countrey on each Side (good wintering Place) a high peaked mountain
Suppose to be Mt. Hood is on the Lard Side S. 85 E. 40 miles distant from
the mouth of quick Sand river.
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805 The Fog So thick this morning that we could not
See a man 50 Steps off, this fog detained us untill 10 oClock at which
time we Set out, accompanied by our Indian friends who are from a village
near the great falls, previous to our Setting out Collins killed a large
Buck, and Labiech killed 3 Geese flying. I walked on the Sand beech Lard.
Side, opposit the canoes as they passed allong. The under groth rushes,
vines &c. in the bottoms too thick to pass through, at 3 miles I
arrived at the enterance of a river which appeared to Scatter over a Sand
bar, the bottom of which I could See quite across and did not appear to be
4 Inches deep in any part; I attempted to wade this Stream and to my
astonishment found the bottom a quick Sand, and impassable — I called
to the Canoes to put to Shore, I got into the Canoe and landed below the
mouth, & Capt Lewis and my Self walked up this river about 11/2 miles
to examine this river which we found to be a verry Considerable Stream
Dischargeing its waters through 2 Chanels which forms an Island of about 3
miles in length on the river and 11/2 miles wide, composed of Corse Sand
which is thrown out of this quick Sand river Compressing the waters of the
Columbia and throwing the whole Current of its waters against its Northern
banks, within a Chanel of 1/2 a mile wide, Several Small Islands 1 mile up
this river, This Stream has much the appearance of the River Plait;
roleing its quick Sands into the bottoms with great velocity after which
it is divided into 2 Chanels by a large Sand bar before mentioned, the
narrowest part of this River is 120 yards-on the Opposit Side of the
Columbia a falls in above this Creek on the Same Side is a Small prarie.
extensive low country on each Side thickly timbered.
The Quick Sand river appears to pass through the low countrey at the foot
of those high range of mountains in a Southerly direction, — The large
Creeks which fall into the Columbia on the Stard. Side rise in the Same
range of mountains to the N. N. E. and pass through Some ridgey land — A
Mountain which we Suppose to be Mt. Hood is S. 85 E about 47 miles distant
from the mouth of quick sand river This mtn. is Covered with Snow and in
the range of mountains which we have passed through and is of a Conical
form but rugid — after takeing dinner at the mouth of this river we
proceeded on passed the head of a Island near the lard Side back of which
on the Same Side and near the head a large Creek falls in, and nearly
opposit & 3 miles below the upper mouth of quick Sand river is the
lower mouth, This Island is 31/2 miles long, has rocks at the upper point,
Some timber on the borders of this Island in the middle open and ponney.
Some rugid rocks in the middle of the Stream opposit this Island.
proceeded in to Center of a large Island in the middle of the river which
we call Dimond Isld. from its appearance, here we met 15 Indn men in 2
canoes from below, they informed us they Saw 3 vestles below &c. &c.
we landed on the North Side of this Dimond Island and Encamped, Capt. L
walked out with his gun on the Island, Sent out hunters & fowlers — below
quick Sand River the Countrey is low rich and thickly timbered on each
Side of the river, the Islands open & Some ponds river wide and emence
numbers of fowls flying in every direction Such as Swan, geese, Brants,
Cranes, Stalks, white guls, comerants & plevers &c. also great
numbers of Sea Otter in the river — a Canoe arrived from the village
below the last rapid with a man his wife and 3 children, and a woman whome
had been taken prisoner from the Snake Inds. on Clarks River I Sent the
Interpreters wife who is a So So ne or Snake Indian of the Missouri, to
Speake to this Squar, they Could not understand each other Sufficiently to
Converse. This familey and the Inds. we met from below continued with us
Capt Lewis borrowed a Small Canoe of those Indians & 4 men took her
across to a Small lake in the Isld. Cap L. and 3 men Set out after night
in this Canoe in Serch of the Swans, Brants Ducks &c. &c. which
appeared in great numbers in the Lake, he Killed a Swan and Several Ducks
which made our number of fowls this evening 3 Swan, 8 brant and 5 Ducks,
on which we made a Sumptious Supper. We gave the Indian-who lent the Canoe
a brant, and Some meat to the others. one of those Indians, the man from
the village near the lower Rapids has a gun with a brass barrel & Cock
of which he prises highly — note the mountain we Saw from near the
forks proves to be Mount Hood
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
Novr. 4th Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cool morning, wind West, we Set out at 1/2
past 8 oClock having dispatched 4 men in the Small canoe to hunt
(Those people men & women heads are flat)
We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes built
of Straw, we were treated verry kindly by them, they gave us round root
near the Size of a hens egg roasted which they call Wap-to to eate
I walked out on the Stard. Side found the country fine, an open Prarie for
1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber on the
edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is Spruce pine & other Species
of Pine mixed Some under groth of a wild crab & a Specis of wood I'm
not acquainted, a Specis of maple & Cotton wood grow near this river,
Some low bushes
Indians continue to be with us, Several Canoes Continue with us, The
Indians at the last village have more Cloth and uriopian trinkets than
above I Saw Some Guns, a Sword, maney Powder flasks, Salers jackets,
overalls, hats & Shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds
only. dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians Stold my tomahawk which
I made use of to Smoke I Serched but Could not find it, a Pond on the
Stard Side, off from the river. Raspberries and ____ are also in the
bottoms — met a large and Small canoe with 12 men from below the men
were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the large
Canoe had emeges on the bow & Stern handsomly Carved in wood &
painted with the figur of a Bear in front & man in a Stern. Saw white
geese with black wings — Saw a Small Crab-apple with all the taste
& flavor of the Common — Those Indians were all armed with Pistols
or bows and arrows ready Sprung war axes &c.
Mount Hellen bears N. 25° E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw
near the foks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow,
riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common
leavel in america passed a village of 4 hs. on the Stard Side at 2 mils,
one at 3 mls.
One deer 2 Ducks & Brant killed
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
November 4th Monday 1805 A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set
out at 1/2 past 8 oClock, one man Shannon Set out early to walk on the
Island to kill Something, he joined us at the lower point with a Buck.
This Island is 6 miles long and near 3 miles wide thinly timbered (Tide
rose last night 18 inches perpndicular at Camp) near the lower point of
this dimond Island is The head of a large Island Seperated from a Small
one by a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard Side, those
Islands as also the bottoms are thickly Covered with Pine &c. river
wide, Country low on both Sides; on the Main Lard Shore a Short distance
below the last Island we landed at a village of 25 Houses; 24 of those
houses were thached with Straw, and covered with bark, the other House is
built of boards in the form of those above, except that it is above ground
and about 50 feet in length and covered with broad Split boards This
village contains about 200 men of the Skil-loot nation I counted 52 canoes
on the bank in front of this village maney of them verry large and raised
in bow. we recognised the man who over took us last night, he invited us
to a lodge in which he had Some part and gave us a roundish roots about
the Size of a Small Irish potato which they roasted in the embers until
they became Soft, This root they call Wap-pa-to which the Bulb of the
Chinese cultivate in great quantities called the Sa-git ti folia or common
arrow head-. it has an agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of
bread. we purchased about 4 bushels of this root and divided it to our
party, at 7 miles below this village passed the upper point of a large
Island nearest the Lard Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond
opposit on the Stard. here I landed and walked on Shore, about 3 miles a
fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises
gradually and wood land comencies Such as white oake, pine of different
kinds, wild crabs with the taste and flavour of the common crab and
Several Species of undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few
Cottonwood trees & the Ash of this countrey grow Scattered on the
river bank, Saw Some Elk and Deer Sign and Joined Capt. Lewis at a place
he had landed with the party for Diner. Soon after Several Canoes of
Indians from the village above came down dressed for the purpose as I
Supposed of Paying us a friendly visit, they had Scarlet & blue
blankets Salors jackets, overalls, Shirts and Hats independant of their
Usial dress; the most of them had either war axes Spears or Bows Sprung
with quivers of arrows, Muskets or pistols, and tin flasks to hold their
powder; Those fellows we found assumeing and disagreeable, however we
Smoked with them and treated them with every attention & friendship.
dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk
which They were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the
canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk, while Serching for the
Tomahawk one of those Scoundals Stole a Cappoe of one of our interpreters,
which was found Stufed under the root of a treer, near the place they Sat,
we became much displeased with those fellows, which they discovered and
moved off on their return home to their village, except 2 canoes which had
passed on down — we proceeded on met a large & a Small Canoe from
below, with 12 men the large Canoe was ornimented with Images carved in
wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in Stern, Painted &
fixed verry netely on the of the Canoe, rising to near the hight of a man
two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was in this canoe
passed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles in length haveing
passed 2 Islands on the Stard Side of this large Island, three Small
Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs that a village is
Situated back of those Islands on the Lard. Side and I believe that a
Chanel is Still on the Lrd, Side as a Canoe passed in between the Small
Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to traffick with Some of the
nativs liveing on another Chanel, at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below
quick Sand river passed a village of four large houses on The Lard. Side,
near which we had a full view of Mt. Helien which is perhaps the highest
pinical in America from their base it bears N. 25° E about 90 miles — This
is the mountain I Saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October
last Covered with Snow, it rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe — about
a mile lower passed a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the
Stard. Side, passed a village on each Side and Camped near a house on the
Stard. Side we proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get
clear of the nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding
that we could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and
Encamped on the Stard. Side Soon after 2 canoes Came to us loaded with
Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.
This evening we Saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry
thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the Lard
Side which runs S. E. & N W. Covered with tall timber the bottoms
below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw White
geese with a part of their wings black. The river here is 11/2 miles wide,
and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy Island the brant
& geese make Such a noise that it will be impossible for me to Sleap.
we made 29 miles to day Killed a Deer and Several brant and ducks. I Saw a
Brarow tamed at the 1st village to day The Indians which we have passd to
day of the Scil-loot nation in their language from those near & about
the long narrows of the Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress
differ but little, except they have more of the articles precured from the
white traders, they all have flatened heads both men and women, live
principally on fish and Wap pa toe roots, they also kill Some fiew Elk and
Deer, dureing the Short time I remained in their village they brought in
three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are
thievishly inclined as we have experienced.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last
night & this morning. I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the
Swans, Geese, white & black brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base,
& Sand hill Crane, they were emensely numerous and their noise horrid.
We Set out at Sun rise & our hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were
white with black wings 2 Ducks, and a Swan which were divided, we Came too
and Encamped on the Lard. Side under a high ridgey land, the high land
come to the river on each Side. the river about 11/2 mile wide. those high
lands rise gradually from the river & bottoms — we are all wet
Cold and disagreeable, rain Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent
which is very fat — my feet and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a
Island, but little appearance of Frost at this place.
[Clark, November 5, 1805]
November 5th Tuesday 1805 Rained all the after part of last night, rain
continues this morning, I slept but verry little last night for the noise
Kept dureing the whole of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey
Brant Ducks &c. on a Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side;
they were emensely noumerous, and their noise horid — we Set out early
here the river is not more than 3/4 of a mile in width, passed a Small
Prarie on the Stard. Side passed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other
on the Lard. Side a Canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it
mearly to view us, passed an Isld. Covered with tall trees & green
briers Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Chanel at 9 miles I
observed on the Chanel which passes on the Stard Side of this Island a
Short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the
front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and
closely Connected, I counted 14 houses in front here the river widens to
about 11/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large village
to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well disposed, they
accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about 111/2 miles below
this village on the Lard Side behind a rockey Sharp point, we passed a
Chanel 1/4 of a mile wide, which I take to be the one the Indian Canoe
entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage Canoe Island a Some low
clifts of rocks below this Chanel, a large Island Close under the Stard
Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below, here we met 2 canoes from below, — below
those Islands a range of high hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the
Shore bold and rockey, Covered with a thick groth of Pine an extensive low
Island, Seperated from the Lard side by a narrow Chanel, on this Island we
Stoped to Dine I walked out found it open & covered with grass
interspersed with Small ponds, in which was great numbr. of foul, the
remains of an old village on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several
deer our hunters killed on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 Grey brant &
2 Ducks all of them were divided, below the lower point of this Island a
range of high hills) which runs S. E. forms the Lard. bank of the river
the Shores bold and rockey & hills Covered with pine, The high hills
leave the river on the Stard. Side a high bottom between the hill &
river. We met 4 Canoes of Indians from below, in which there is 26
Indians, one of those Canoes is large, and ornimented with Images on the
bow & Stern. That in the Bow the likeness of a Bear, and in Stern the
picture of a man — we landed on the Lard. Side & camped a little
below the mouth of a creek on the Stard. Side a little below the mouth of
which is an Old Village which is now abandaned-; here the river is about
one and a half miles wide, and deep, The high Hills which run in a N W.
& S E. derection form both banks of the river the Shore boald and
rockey, the hills rise gradually & are Covered with a thick groth of
pine &c. The valley which is from above the mouth of Quick Sand River
to this place may be computed at 60 miles wide on a Derect line, &
extends a great Distanc to the right & left rich thickly Covered with
tall timber, with a fiew Small Praries bordering on the river and on the
Islands; Some fiew Standing Ponds & Several Small Streams of running
water on either Side of the river; This is certainly a fertill and a
handsom valley, at this time Crouded with Indians. The day proved Cloudy
with rain the greater part of it, we are all wet cold and disagreeable — I
Saw but little appearance of frost in this valley which we call Wap-pa-loo
Columbia from that root or plants growing Spontaneously in this valley
only In my walk of to Day I saw 17 Striped Snakes I killed a grouse which
was verry fat, and larger than Common. This is the first night which we
have been entirely clear of Indians Since our arrival on the waters of the
Columbia River. We made 32 miles to day by estimation-
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday a cold wet morning. rain Contd. untill ____ oClock
we Set out early & proceeded on the Corse of last night &c.
[Clark, November 6, 1805]
November 6th Wednesday 1805 A cool wet raney morning we Set out early at 4
miles pass 2 Lodges of Indians in a Small bottom on the Lard Side I
believe those Indians to be travelers. opposit is the head of a long
narrow Island close under the Starboard Side, back of this Island two
Creeks fall in about 6 miles apart, and appear to head in the high hilley
countrey to the N. E. opposit this long Island is 2 others one Small and
about the middle of the river. the other larger and nearly opposit its
lower point, and opposit a high clift of Black rocks on the Lard. Side at
14 miles: here the Indians of the 2 Lodges we passed to day came in their
canoes with Sundery articles to Sell, we purchased of them Wap-pa-too
roots, Salmon trout, and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for which I gave 5
Small fish hooks. here the hills leave the river on the Lard. Side, a
butifull open and extensive bottom in which there is an old Village, one
also on the Stard. Side a little above both of which are abandened by all
their inhabitents except Two Small dogs nearly Starved, and an
unreasonable portion of flees — The Hills and mountains are covered
with Sever kinds of Pine-Arber Vitea or white Cedar, red Loril, alder and
Several Species of under groth, the bottoms have common rushes, nettles,
& grass the Slashey parts have Bull rushes & flags — Some
willow on the waters edge, passed an Island 3 miles long and one mile
wide, close under the Stard. Side below the long narrow Island below which
the Stard Hills are verry from the river bank and Continues high and rugid
on that Side all day, we over took two Canoes of Indians going down to
trade one of the Indians Spoke a fiew words of english and Said that the
principal man who traded with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a woman
in his Canoe who Mr. Haley was fond of &c. he Showed us a Bow of Iron
and Several other things which he Said Mr. Haley gave him. we came too to
Dine on the long narrow Island found the woods So thick with under groth
that the hunters could not get any distance into the Isld. the red wood,
and Green bryors interwoven, and mixed with pine, alder, a Specis of
Beech, ash &c. we killed nothing to day The Indians leave us in the
evening, river about one mile wide hills high and Steep on the Std. no
place for Several Miles suffcently large and leavil for our camp we at
length Landed at a place which by moveing the Stones we made a place
Sufficently large for the party to lie leavil on the Smaller Stones Clear
of the Tide Cloudy with rain all day we are all wet and disagreeable, had
large fires made on the Stone and dried our bedding and Kill the flees,
which collected in our blankets at every old village we encamped near I
had like to have forgotten a verry remarkable Knob riseing from the edge
of the water to about 80 feet high, and about 200 paces around at its Base
and Situated on the long narrow Island above and nearly opposit to the 2
Lodges we passed to day, it is Some distance from the high land & in a
low part of the Island
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805 a Cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out
at 8 oClock proceeded on
The womens peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber vita or the
white Cedar bark wove to a String and hanging down in tossles and tied So
as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat will reach and only
Covers them when Standing, as in any other position the Tosels Seperate.
Those people Sold us otter Skins for fish hooks of which they wer fond
We delayed 11/2 hour & Set out the tide being up in & the river So
Cut with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the main chanel one of
our Canoes Seperated from us this morning in the fog — great numbers
of water fowls of every descriptn. common to this river
[Clark, November 7, 1805]
November 7th Thursday 1805 A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out
early proceeded under the Stard Shore under a high rugid hills with Steep
assent the Shore boalt and rockey, the fog So thick we could not See
across the river, two Canos of Indians met and returned with us to their
village which is Situated on the Stard Side behind a cluster of Marshey
Islands, on a narrow chanl. of the river through which we passed to the
Village of 4 Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish,
Wap pa to roots three dogs and 2 otter Skins for which we gave fish hooks
principally of which they were verry fond.
Those people call themselves War-ci-a-cum and Speake a language different
from the nativs above with whome they trade for the Wapato roots of which
they make great use of as food. their houses differently built, raised
entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground Supported and
covered in the same way of those above, dotes about the Same size but in
the Side of the house in one Corner, one fire place and that near the
opposit end; around which they have their beads raised about 4 feet from
the fore which is of earth, under their beads they Store away baskets of
dried fish Berries & wappato, over the fire they hang the flesh as
they take them and which they do not make immediate use. Their Canoes are
of the Same form of those above. The Dress of the men differ verry little
from those above, The womin altogether different, their robes are Smaller
only Covering their Sholders & falling down to near the hip — and
Sometimes when it is Cold a piec of fur curiously plated and connected So
as to meet around the body from the arms to the hips The garment which
occupies the waist and thence as low as the knee before and mid leg
behind, cannot properly be called a petticoat, in the common acception of
the word; it is a Tissue formed of white Cedar bark bruised or broken into
Small Straps, which are interwoven in their center by means of Several
cords of the Same materials which Serves as well for a girdle as to hold
in place the Straps of bark which forms the tissue, and which Strans,
Confined in the middle, hang with their ends pendulous from the waiste,
the whole being of Suffcent thickness when the female Stands erect to
conceal those parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she
stoops or places herself in any other attitudes this battery of Venus is
not altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite. This
tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk grass twisted and
knoted at their ends &c. Those Indians are low and ill Shaped all flat
heads
after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out piloted by
an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the main Chanel of the river, the
tide being in we Should have found much dificuelty in passing into the
main Chanel from behind those islands, without a pilot, a large marshey
Island near the middle of the river near which Several Canoes Came allong
Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and had a temporey residence
on this Island, here we See great numbers of water fowls about those
marshey Islands; here the high mountanious Countrey approaches the river
on the Lard Side, a high mountn. to the S W. about 20 miles, the high
mountans. Countrey Continue on the Stard Side, about 14 miles below the
last village and 18 miles of this day we landed at a village of the Same
nation. This village is at the foot of the high hills on the Stard Side
back OF 2 Small Islands it contains 7 indifferent houses built in the Same
form of those above, here we purchased a Dog Some fish, wappato roots and
I purchased 2 beaver Skins for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the
robe I have is rotten and good for nothing. opposit to this Village the
high mountaneous Countrey leave the river on the Lard Side below which the
river widens into a kind of Bay & is Crouded with low Islands Subject
to be Covered by the tides — we proceeded on about 12 miles below the
Village under a high mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side. Shore boald
and rockey and Encamped under a high hill on the Stard. Side opposit to a
rock Situated half a mile from the Shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet
Diamieter, we with dificuelty found a place Clear of the tide and
Sufficiently large to lie on and the only place we could get was on round
Stones on which we lay our mats rain Continud. moderately all day &
Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we detected in
Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe which got Seperated in the
fog this morning joined us this evening from a large Island Situated
nearest the Lard Side below the high hills on that Side, the river being
too wide to See either the form Shape or Size of the Islands on the Lard
Side.
Great joy in camp we are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific Octean
which we been So long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise made by the
waves brakeing on the rockey Shores (as I Suppose) may be heard distictly
we made 34 miles to day as Computed
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
Novr. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we Changed our
Clothes and Set out at 9 oClock proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side
R. Fields Killed a goose & 2 Canvis back Ducks in this bay after
Dinner we took the advantage of the returning tide & proceeded on to
the 2d point, at which place we found the Swells too high to proceed we
landed and drew our canoes up So as to let the tide leave them. The three
Indians after Selling us 4 fish for which we gave Seven Small fishing
hooks, and a piece of red Cloth. Some fine rain at intervales all this
day. the Swells Continued high all the evening & we are Compelled to
form an Encampment on a Point Scercely room Sufficent for us all to lie
Clear of the tide water. hills high & with a Steep assent, river wide
& at this place too Salt to be used for Drink. we are all wet and
disagreeable, as we have been Continually for Severl. days past, we are at
a loss & cannot find out if any Settlement is near the mouth of this
river.
The Swells were So high and the Canoes roled in Such a manner as to cause
Several to be verry Sick. Reuben fields, Wiser McNeal & the Squar wer
of the number
[Clark, November 8, 1805]
November 8th Friday 1805 A Cloudy morning Some rain, we did not Set out
untill 9 oClock, haveing Changed our Clothing — proceeded on Close
under the Stard. Side, the hills high with Steep assent, Shore boald and
rockey Several low Islands in a Deep bend or Bay to the Lard Side, river
about 5 or 7 miles wide. three Indians in a Canoe overtook us, with Salmon
to Sell, passed 2 old villages on the Stard. Side and at 3 miles entered a
nitch of about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep with Several Creeks makeing
into the Stard Hills, this nitch we found verry Shallow water and Call it
the Shallow nitch we came too at the remains of an old village at the
bottom of this nitch and dined, here we Saw great numbers of fowl, Sent
out 2 men and they killed a Goose and two Canves back Ducks here we found
great numbers of Hees which we treated with the greatest caution and
distance; after Diner the Indians left us and we took the advantage of a
returning tide and proceeded on to the Second point on the Std. here we
found the Swells or waves So high that we thought it imprudent to proceed;
we landed unloaded and drew up our Canoes. Some rain all day at
intervales; we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been for Several
days past, and our present Situation a verry disagreeable one in as much;
as we have not leavel land Sufficient for an encampment and for our
baggage to lie Cleare of the tide, the High hills jutting in So Close and
Steep that we cannot retreat back, and the water of the river too Salt to
be used, added to this the waves are increasing to Such a hight that we
cannot move from this place, in this Situation we are compelled to form
our Camp between the hite of the Ebb and flood tides, and rase our baggage
on logs — We are not certain as yet if the whites people who trade
with those people or from whome they precure ther goods are Stationary at
the mouth, or visit this quarter at Stated times for the purpose of
trafick &c. I believe the latter to be the most probable conjucture — The
Seas roled and tossed the Canoes in Such a manner this evening that
Several of our party were Sea Sick.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
Novr. 9th Saturday 1805 The tide of last night obliged us to unload all
the Canoes one of which Sunk before She was unloaded by the high waves or
Swells which accompanied the returning tide, The others we unloaded, and 3
others was filled with water Soon after by the Swells or high Sees which
broke against the Shore imediately where we lay, rained hard all the fore
part of the day, the tide which rose untill 2 oClock P M to day brought
with it Such emence Swells or waves, added to a hard wind from the South
which Loosened the Drift trees which is verry thick on the Shores, and
tossed them about in Such a manner, as to endanger our Canoes very much,
with every exertion and the Strictest attention by the party was Scercely
Suffient to defend our Canoes from being Crushed to pieces between those
emensely large trees maney of them 200 feet long and 4 feet through. The
tide of this day rose about ____ feet & 15 Inches higher than
yesterday this is owing to the wind which Sets in from the ocian, we are
Compelled to move our Camp from the water, as also the loading every man
as wet all the last night and this day as the rain Could make them which
Contind. all day. at 4 oClock the wind Shifted about to the S. W
imediately from the ocian and blew a Storm for about 2 hours, raised the
tide verry high all wet & cold Labiech killed 4 Ducks very fat &
R. Fields Saw Elk Sign.
not withstanding the disagreeable time of the party for Several days past
they are all Chearfull and full of anxiety to See further into the ocian.
the water is too Salt to Drink, we use rain water. The Salt water has
acted on some of the party already as a Pergitive. rain continus.
[Clark, November 9, 1805]
November 9th Saturday 1805 The tide of last night did not rise Sufficintly
high to come into our camp, but the Canoes which was exposed to the mercy
of the waves &c. which accompanied the returning tide, they all
filled, and with great attention we Saved them untill the tide left them
dry — wind Hard from the South and rained hard all the fore part of
the day, at 2 oClock P M the flood tide came in accompanied with emence
waves and heavy winds, floated the trees and Drift which was on the point
on which we Camped and tosed them about in Such a manner as to endanger
the Canoes verry much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by
every individual of the party was Scercely Sufficient to Save our Canoes
from being crushed by those monsterous trees maney of them nearly 200 feet
long and from 4 to 7 feet through. our camp entirely under water dureing
the hight of the tide, every man as wet as water could make them all the
last night and to day all day as the rain Continued all day, at 4 oClock P
M the wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew with great violence
imediately from the Ocian for about two hours, notwithstanding the
disagreeable Situation of our party all wet and Cold (and one which they
have experienced for Several days past) they are chearfull and anxious to
See further into the Ocian, The water of the river being too Salt to use
we are obliged to make use of rain water — Some of the party not
accustomed to Salt water has made too free a use of it on them it acts as
a pergitive.
at this dismal point we must Spend another night as the wind & waves
are too high to proceed.
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805 rained verry hard the greater part of the last
night & Continus this morning, the wind has layed and the Swells are
fallen. we loaded our Canoes and proceeded on, passed a Deep Bay on the
Stard. Side I Call ____ The wind rose from the N W. and the Swells became
So high, we were Compelled to return about 2 miles to a place where we
Could unld. our Canoes, which was in a Small Bay on Driftwood, on which we
had also to make our fires to dry our Selves as well as we could the Shore
being either a Clift of Purpendicular rocks or Steep assents to the hight
of 4 or 500 feet, we continued on this drift wood untill about 3 oClock
when the evening appearing favourable we loaded & Set out in hopes to
turn the Point below and get into a better harber, but finding the waves
& Swells continue to rage with great fury below, we got a Safe place
for our Stores & a much beter one for the Canoes to lie and formed a
Campment on Drift logs in the Same little Bay under a high hill at the
enterence of a Small drean which we found verry convt. on account of its
water, as that of the river is Brackish — The logs on which we lie is
all on flote every high tide — The rain Continud all day — we are
all wet, also our beding and many other articles. we are all employed
untill late drying our bedding. nothing to eate but Pounded fish
[Clark, November 10, 1805]
November 10th Sunday 1805 Rained verry hard the greater part of last night
and continues this morning. the wind has luled and the waves are not high;
we loaded our canoes and proceeded on passed Several Small and deep nitch
on the Stard. Side, we proceeded on about 10 miles Saw great numbers of
Sea Guls, the wind rose from the N. W. and the waves became So high that
we were compelled to return about 2 miles to a place we Could unload our
Canoes, which we did in a Small nitch at the mouth of a Small run on a
pile of drift logs where we Continued untill low water, when the river
appeared calm we loaded and Set out; but was obliged to return finding the
waves too high for our Canoes to ride, we again unloaded the Canoes, and
Stoed the loading on a rock above the tide water, and formed a camp on the
Drift Logs which appeared to be the only Situation we could find to lie,
the hills being either a perpendicular Clift, or Steep assent, riseing to
about 500 feet — our Canoes we Secured as well as we could — we
are all wet the rain haveing continued all day, our beding and maney other
articles, employ our Selves drying our blankets- nothing to eate but dried
fish pounded which we brought from the falls. we made 10 miles today
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805 a hard rain all the last night we again get wet
the rain continue at intervals all day. Wind verry high from S W and blew
a Storm all day Sent out Jo. Fields & Collins to hunt. at 12 oClock at
a time the wind was verry high and waves tremendeous five Indians Came
down in a Canoe loaded with fish of Salmon Spes. Called Red Charr, we
purchased of those Indians 13 of these fish, for which we gave, fishing
hooks & some trifling things, we had Seen those Indians at a village
behind Some marshey Islands a few days ago. they are on their way to trade
those fish with white people which they make Signs live below round a
point, those people are badly Clad, one is dressd. in an old Salors Jacket
& Trouses, the others Elk Skin robes. we are truly unfortunate to be
Compelled to lie 4 days nearly in the Same place at a time that our day
are precious to us, The Wind Shifted to ____ the Indians left us and
Crossed the river which is about 5 miles wide through the highest Sees I
ever Saw a Small vestle ride, their Canoe is Small, maney times they were
out of Sight before the were 2 miles off Certain it is they are the best
canoe navigators I ever Saw The tide was 3 hours later to day than
yesterday and rose much higher, the trees we camped on was all on flote
for about 2 hours from 3 untill 5 oClock P M, the great quantities of rain
which has fallen losenes the Stones on the Side of the hill & the
Small ones fall on us, our Situation is truly a disagreeable one our
Canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves our baggage in another and
our Selves & party Scattered on drift trees of emense Sizes, & are
on what dry land they can find in the Crevices of the rocks & hill
Sides
[Clark, November 11, 1805]
November 11th Monday 1805 A hard rain all the last night, dureing the last
tide the logs on which we lay was all on float Sent out Jo Fields to hunt,
he Soon returned and informed us that the hills was So high & Steep,
& thick with undergroth and fallen Timber that he could not get out
any distance; about 12 oClock 5 Indians came down in a canoe, the wind
verry high from the S. W. with most tremendious waves brakeing with great
violence against the Shores, rain falling in torrents, we are all wet as
usial and our Situation is truly a disagreeable one; the great quantites
of rain which has loosened the Stones on the hill Sides, and the Small
Stones fall down upon us, our canoes at one place at the mercy of the
waves, our baggage in another and our Selves and party Scattered on
floating logs and Such dry Spots as can be found on the hill Sides, and
Crivices of the rocks. we purchased of the Indians 13 red chary which we
found to be an excellent fish we have Seen those Indians above and are of
a nation who reside above and on the opposit Side who call themselves
Call-har-ma they are badly clad & illy made, Small and Speak a
language much resembling the last nation, one of those men had on a Salors
Jacket and Pantiloons and made Signs that he got those Clothes from the
white people who lived below the point &c. those people left us and
Crossed the river (which is about 5 miles wide at this place) through the
highest waves I ever Saw a Small vestles ride. Those Indians are Certainly
the best Canoe navigaters I ever Saw. rained all (lay
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805 a tremendious thunder Storm abt. 3 oClock this
morning accompanied by wind from the S W. and Hail, this Storm of hard
Clap's thunder Lighting and hail untill about 6 oClock at intervals it
then became light for a Short time when the heavens became darkined by a
black Cloud from the S, W, & a hard rain Suckceeded which lasted
untill 12 oClock with a hard wind which raised the Seas tremendiously high
braking with great force and fury against the rocks & trees on which
we lie, as our Situation became Seriously dangerous, we took the advantage
of a low tide & moved our Camp around a point a Short distance to a
Small wet bottom at the mouth of a Small Creek, which we had not observed
when we first Came to this Cove, from its being very thick and obscured by
drift trees & thick bushes, Send out men to hunt they found the woods
So thick with Pine & timber and under Broth that they could not get
through, Saw Some Elk tracks, I walked up this creek & killed 2 Salmon
trout, the men killd. 13 of the Salmon Species, The Pine of fur Specs, or
Spruc Pine grow here to an emense Size & hight maney of them 7 & 8
feet through and upwards of 200 feet high. It would be distressing to a
feeling person to See our Situation at this time all wet and cold with our
bedding &c. also wet, in a Cove Scercely large nough to Contain us,
our Baggage in a Small holler about 1/2 a mile from us, and Canoes at the
mercy of the waves & drift wood, we have Scured them as well as it is
possible by Sinking and wateing them down with Stones to prevent the
emence waves dashing them to pices against the rocks — one got loose
last night & was left on a rock by the tide Some distance below
without recving much damage. fortunately for us our Men are helthy. It was
clear at 12 for a Short time. I observed the Mountains on the opposit Side
was covered with Snowour party has been wet for 8 days and is truly
disagreeable, their robes & leather Clothes are rotten from being
Continually wet, and they are not in a Situation to get others, and we are
not in a Situation to restore them — I observe great numbers of Sea
guls, flying in every derection — Three men Gibson Bratten &
Willard attempted to decend in a Canoe built in the Indian fashion and
abt. the Size of the one the Indians visited us in yesterday, they Could
not proceed, as the waves tossed them about at will, they returned after
proceeding about 1 mile — we got our Selves tolerable Comfortable by
drying our Selves & bedding Cought 3 salmon this evining in a Small
branch above about 1 mile
[Clark, November 12, 1805]
November 12th Tuesday 1805 A Tremendious wind from the S. W. about 3
oClock this morning with Lightineng and hard claps of Thunder, and Hail
which Continued untill 6 oClock a.m. when it became light for a Short
time, then the heavens became Sudenly darkened by a black Cloud from the
S. W. and rained with great violence untill 12 oClock, the waves
tremendious brakeing with great fury against the rocks and trees on which
we were encamped. our Situation is dangerous. we took the advantage of a
low tide and moved our camp around a point to a Small wet bottom at the
mouth of a Brook, which we had not observed when we Came to this cove;
from it being verry thick and obscured by drift trees and thick bushes It
would be distressing to See our Situation, all wet and Colde our bedding
also wet, (and the robes of the party which Compose half the bedding is
rotten and we are not in a Situation to supply their places) in a wet
bottom Scercely large enough to contain us, our baggage half a mile from
us and Canoes at the mercy of the waves, altho Secured as well as
possible, Sunk with emence parcels of Stone to wate them down to prevent
their dashing to pieces against the rocks; one got loose last night and
was left on a rock a Short distance below, without rciving more daminage
than a Split in her bottom — Fortunately for us our men are healthy. 3
men Gibson Bratten & Willard attempted to go aroud the point below in
our Indian Canoe, much Such a canoe as the Indians visited us in
yesterday, they proceeded to the point from which they were oblige to
return, the waves tossing them about at will I walked up the branch and
giged 3 Salmon trout. the party killed 13 Salmon to day in a branch about
2 miles above. rain Continued
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last night,
rain and wind Continue this morning, as we are in a Cove & the
Mountains verry high & Pine Spruce verry high & thick Cannot
deturmine the procise course of the winds. I walked to the top of the
first part of the mountain with much fatigue as the distance was about 3
miles thro intolerable thickets of Small Pine, arrow wood a groth much
resembling arrow wood with briers, growing to 10 & 15 feet high
interlocking with each other & Furn, aded to this difficulty the hill
was So Steep that I was obliged to drawing my Self up in many places by
the bowers, the Countrey Continues thick and hilley as far back a I could
See. Some Elk Sign, rained all day moderately. I am wet &c. &c.
The Hail which fell 2 night past is yet to be Seen on the mountain on
which I was to day. I Saw a Small red Berry which grows on a Stem of about
6 or 8 Inches from the Ground, in bunches and in great quantity on the
Mountains, the taste insiped. I saw a number of verry large Spruce Pine
one of which I measured 14 feet around and verry tall. My principal
objects in assdg. this mountain was to view the river below, the weather
being So Cloudey & thick that I could not See any distance down,
discovered the wind high from the N. W. and waves high at a Short distance
below our Encampment, (Squar displeased with me for not sin &c &c.
Wap-lo a excellent root which is rosted and tastes like a potato I Cut my
hand despatched 3 men in a Indian canoe (which is calculated to ride high
Swells) down to examine if they can find the Bay at the mouth & good
barbers below for us to proceed in Safty. The fides at every Hud come in
with great Swells & Breake against the rocks & Drift trees with
great fury — the rain Continue all the evening nothing to eate but
Pounded fish which we have as a reserve See Store, and what Pore fish we
can kill up the branch on which we are encamped our canoe and the three
men did not return this evening — if we were to have cold weather to
accompany the rain which we have had for this 6 or 8 days passed we must
eneviatilbly Suffer verry much as Clothes are Scerce with us.
[Clark, November 13, 1805]
November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last night,
rain continue this morning. I walked up the Brook & assended the first
Spur of the mountain with much fatigue, the distance about 3 miles,
through an intolerable thickets of Small pine, a groth much resembling
arrow wood on the Stem of which there is thorns; this groth about 12 or 15
feet high inter lockd into each other and Scattered over the high fern
& fallen timber, added to this the hills were So Steep that I was
compelled to draw my Self up by the assistance of those bushes — The
Timber on those hills are of the pine Species large and tall maney of them
more than 200 feet high & from 8 to 10 feet through at the Stump those
hills & as far back as I could See, I Saw Some Elk Sign, on the Spur
of the mountain tho not fresh. I killed a Salmon trout on my return. The
Hail which fell 2 nights past is yet to be Seen on the mountains; I Saw in
my ramble to day a red berry resembling Solomons Seal berry which the
nativs call Sol-me and use it to eate. my principal object in assending
this mountain was to view the countrey below, the rain continuing and
weather proved So Cloudy that I could not See any distance on my return we
dispatched 3 men Colter, Willard and Shannon in the Indian canoe to get
around the point if possible and examine the river, and the Bay below for
a god barber for our Canoes to lie in Safty &c. The tide at every
floot tide Came with great swells brakeing against the rocks & Drift
trees with great fury The rain Continue all day. nothing to eate but
pounded fish which we Keep as a reserve and use in Situations of this
kind.
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
Novr. 14th Thursday 1805 Rained last night without intermission and this
morning the wind blew hard from the ____ We Could not move, one Canoe was
broken last night against the rocks, by the waves dashing her against them
in high tide about 10 oClock 5 Indians Come up in a Canoe thro emence
waves & Swells, they landed and informed us they Saw the 3 men we Sent
down yesterday, at Some distance below Soon after those people Came Colter
one of the 3 men returned and informed us that he had proceeded with his
Canoe as far as they Could, for the waves and Could find no white people,
or Bay, he Saw a good Canoe barber & 2 Camps of Indians at no great
distance below and that those with us had taken his gig & knife &c.
which he forcably took from them & they left us, after our treating
them well. The rain Continue all day all wet as usial, killed only 2 fish
to day for the whole Party, at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Drewyer Jo. & R.
Fields & Frasure Set out down on the Shore to examine if any white men
were below within our reach, they took a empty Canoe & 5 men to Set
them around the Point on a Gravelley Beech which Colter informed was at no
great distance below. The Canoe returned at dusk half full of water, from
the waves which dashed over in passing the point Capt Lewis is object is
also to find a Small Bay as laid down by Vancouver just out of the mouth
of the Columbia River. rained as usial all the evening, all wet and
disagreeable Situated
[Clark, November 14, 1805]
November 14th Thursday 1805 rained all the last night without intermition,
and this morning. wind blows verry hard but our Situation is Such that we
Cannot tell from what point it comes — one of our Canoes is much
broken by the waves dashing it against the rocks — 5 Indians Came up
in a Canoe, thro the waves, which is verry high and role with great fury — They
made Signs to us that they Saw the 3 men we Sent down yesterday. only 3 of
those Indians landed, the other 2 which was women played off in the waves,
which induced me to Suspect that they had taken Something from our men
below, at this time one of the men Colter returnd by land and informed us
that those Indians had taken his Gigg & basket, I called to the Squars
to land and give back the gigg, which they would not doe untill a man run
with a gun, as if he intended to Shute them when they landed, and Colter
got his gig & basket I then ordered those fellows off, and they verry
readily Cleared out they are of the War-ci-a-cum N. Colter informed us
that "it was but a Short distance from where we lay around the point to a
butifull Sand beech, which continud for a long ways, that he had found a
good harber in the mouth of a creek near 2 Indian Lodgesthat he had
proceeded in the Canoe as far as he could for the waves, the other two men
Willard & Shannon had proceeded on down"
Capt Lewis concluded to proceed on by land & find if possible the
white people the Indians Say is below and examine if a Bay is Situated
near the mouth of this river as laid down by Vancouver in which we expect,
if there is white traders to find them &c. at 3 oClock he Set out with
4 men Drewyer Jos. & Reu. Fields & R. Frasure, in one of our large
canoes and 5 men to Set them around the point on the Sand beech. this
canoe returned nearly filled with water at Dark which it receved by the
waves dashing into it on its return, haveing landed Capt. Lewis & his
party Safe on the Sand beech. The rain Continues all day all wet. The rain
&c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at a
time for ten days past has distroyd. the robes and rotted nearly one half
of the fiew Clothes the party has, perticularley the leather Clothes, — fortunately
for us we have no very Cold weather as yet and if we have Cold weather
before we Can kill & Dress Skins for Clothing the bulk of the party
will Suffer verry much.
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805 Rained all the last night at intervales of
Sometimes of 2 hours, This morning it became Calm & fair, I prepared
to Set out at which time the wind sprung up from the S. E. and blew down
the River & in a fiew minits raised Such Swells and waves brakeing on
the Rocks at the point as to render it unsafe to proceed. I went to the
point in an empty canoe and found it would be dangerous to proceed even in
an empty Canoe The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock p.m.which gave an oppertunity
for us to dry Some of our bedding, & examine our baggage, the greater
Part of which I found wet Some of our Pounded fish Spoiled I had all the
arms put in order & amunition examined.
The rainey weather Continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours at
a time from the 5th in the morng. untill the 16th is eleven days rain, and
the most disagreeable time I have experienced Confined on a tempiest Coast
wet, where I can neither get out to hunt, return to a better Situation, or
proceed on: in this Situation have we been for Six days past. — fortunately
the wind lay about 3 oClock we loaded I in great haste and Set out passed
the blustering Point below which is a Sand beech, with a Small marshey
bottom for 3 miles on the Stard. Side, on which is a large village of 36
houses deserted by the Inds. & in full possession of the flees, a
Small Creek fall in at this village, which waters the Country for a few
miles back; Shannon & 5 Indians met me here, Shannon informed me he
met Capt. Lewis Some distance below & he took willard with him &
Sent him to meet me, the Inds with him wer rogues, they had the night
before Stold both his and Willards guns from under their heads, Capt.
Lewis & party arrived at the Camp of those Indians at So Timely a
period that the Inds. were allarmed & delivered up the guns &c.
The tide meeting of me and the emence Swells from the main Ocean
(imedeately in front of us) raised to Such a hite that I concluded to form
a Camp on the highest Spot I could find in the marshey bottom, and proceed
no further by water as the Coaste becomes verry dangerous for Crafts of
the Size of our Canoes-and as the Ocian is imedeately in front and gives
us an extensive view of it from Cape disapointment to Point addams, my
Situation is in the upper part of Haley Bay S. 86° W. ____ miles Course
five to Cape Disapt. and S. 35° W. Course ____ miles from point Addams
The River here at its mouth from Point addams to the enterance of Haley
Bay above is ____ Miles or thereabouts, a large Isd. the lower point of
which is immediately in the mouth above
4 Indians in a Canoe Came down with papto roots to Sell, for which they
asked, blankets or robes, both of which we could not Spare I informed
those Indians all of which understood Some English that if they Stole our
guns &c the men would Certainly Shute them, I treated them with great
distance, & the Sentinal which was over our Baggage allarmed them
verry much, they all Promised not to take any thing, and if any thing was
taken by the Squars & bad boys to return them &c. the waves became
very high Evening fare & pleasent, our men all Comfortable in the
Camps they have made of the boards they found at the Town above
[Clark, November 15, 1805]
November 15th Friday 1805 Rained all the last night, this morning it
became Calm and fair, I preposed Setting out, and ordered the Canoes
Repared and loaded; before we could load our canoes the wind Sudenly
Sprung up from the S. E and blew with Such violence, that we could not
proceed in Safty with the loading. I proceeded to the point in an empty
Canoe, and found that the waves dashed against the rocks with Such
violence that I thought it unsave to Set out with the loaded Canoes — The
Sun Shown untill 1 oClock P M which afford us time to Dry our bedding and
examine the baggage which I found nearly all wet, Some of our pounded fish
Spoiled in the wet; I examined the amunition and Caused all the arms to be
put in order.
About 3 oClock the wind luled, and the river became calm, I had the canoes
loaded in great haste and Set Out, from this dismal nitich where we have
been confined for 6 days passed, without the possibility of proceeding on,
returning to a better Situation, or get out to hunt, Scerce of Provisions,
and torents of rain poreing on us all the time- proceeded on passed the
blustering point below which I found a butifull Sand beech thro which runs
a Small below the mouth of this Stream is a village of 36 houses
uninhabited by anything except flees, here I met G. Shannon and 5 Indians.
Shannon informed me that he met Capn. Lewis at an Indian Hut about 10
miles below who had Sent him back to meet me, he also told me the Indians
were thievish, as the night before they had Stolen both his and Willards
rifles from under their heads, that they Set out on their return and had
not proceeded far up the beech before they met Capt Lewis, whose arival
was at a timely moment and alarmed the Indians So that they instantly
produced the Guns — I told those Indians who accompanied Shannon that
they Should not Come near us, and if any one of their nation Stold
anything from us, I would have him Shot, which they understoot verry well.
as the tide was Comeing in and the Seas became verry high imediately from
the Ocian (imediately faceing us) I landed and formed a camp on the
highest Spot I could find between the hight of the tides, and the Slashers
in a Small bottom this I could plainly See would be the extent of our
journey by water, as the waves were too high at any Stage for our Canoes
to proceed any further down. in full view of the Ocian from Point Adams to
Cape Disapointment, I could not See any Island in the mouth of this river
as laid down by Vancouver. The Bay which he laies down in the mouth is
imediately below me. This Bay we call Haleys bay from a favourate Trader
with the Indians which they Say comes into this Bay and trades with them
Course to Point adams is S. 35°W. about 8 miles To Cape Disapointment is
S. 86°W. about 14 miles 4 Indians of the War-ki a cum nation Came down
with pap-pa-too to Sell &c. The Indians who accompanied Shannon from
the village below Speake a Different language from those above, and reside
to the north of this place The Call themselves Chin nooks, I told those
people that they had attempted to Steal 2 guns &c. that if any one of
their nation stole any thing that the Sentinl. whome they Saw near our
baggage with his gun would most certainly Shute them, they all promised
not to tuch a thing, and if any of their womin or bad boys took any thing
to return it imediately and Chastise them for it. I treated those people
with great distance. our men all Comfortable in their Camps which they
have made of boards from the old Village above. we made 3 miles to day.
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Satturday 1805 a fine morning cool the latter part of the
night, I had all our articles of every discription examined, and found
much wet, had all put out & dried, The 5 Indians Theves left me. I
took a meridean altd. with Sextt. 50° 36 15 the Shakeing emige below — I
Sent out Several hunters Some to kill fowl others to hunt deer or Elk. The
Sea is fomeing and looks truly dismal to day, from the wind which blew to
day from the S. W. an Indian Canoe passed down to day, loaded with roots
&c. three Indians Came up from below I gave them Smoke but allowed
then no kind of Priveleges what ever, they camped with the 4 which Came
down yesterday, near us, The evening provd. Cloudy & I could make no
lunar observations. one man Sick with a violent Cold, Caught by lying in
his wet Clothes, Several nights Course from Stormey point to Cape
Disapointment is ____ Miles, passd a Small Creek and an old village at 2
miles on the Stard Side a Small Creek at 1 mile we Encamped just above a
Point in a Deep bay to the Stard. Side into which falls 2 Small rivers
Std. Grat many Indians liveing on the Bay & those two rivers, the the
Countrey on the Stard. Side high broken & thickly timbered, that on
the Lard. at Some distance from Point Adms high and mountains on a Pinecal
of a which is Snow at this time — near the Point is Low bottom land
our hunters and fowlers killd 2 Deer 1 Crane & 2 ducks, my Servt. York
killed 2 Geese & 8 white, black and Speckle Brants, The White Brant,
with part of their wings black is much the largest, the black brant is
verry Small, a little larger than a large Duck — the deer pore but
large
[Clark, November 16, 1805]
November 16th Saturday 1805 Cool the latter part of the last night this
morning Clear and butifull; I had all our articles of every discription
examined and put out to Dry. The 5 Chin nooks left us I took a meridenal
altitude with the Sextn. 50° 36' 15 which gave for Lattitude 46° 19' 11
1/10" North. I Sent out Several hunters and fowlers in pursute Elk, Deer,
or fowls of any kind. wind hard from the S W The Waves high & look
dismal indeed breaking with great fury on our beech an Indian canoe pass
down to day loaded with Wap-pa-toe roots; Several Indians came up to day
from below, I gave them Smoke but allowed them no kind of privilage
whatever in the camp, they with the 4 which came down yesterday encamped a
Short distance from us. The evening proved Cloudy and I could not take any
Luner observations — One man Sick with a violent cold, Caught by
laying in his wet leather Clothes for maney nights past.
The Countrey on the Stard Side above Haley Bay is high broken and thickley
timbered on the Lard Side from Point Adams the Contrey appears low for 15
or 20 miles back to the mountains, a pinical of which now is Covered with
Snow or hail, as the opposit is too far distant to be distinguished well,
I Shall not attempt to describe any thing on that Side at present. our
hunters and fowlers killed 2 Deer 1 Crain & 2 Ducks, and my man York
killed 2 geese and 8 Brant, 3 of them white with a part of their wings
black and much larger than the Grey brant which is a Sise larger than a
Duck.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805 a fair cool windey morning wind from the East.
every tide which rises 8 feet 6 Inches at this place, comes in with high
Swells which brake on the Sand Shore with great fury.
I Sent out 6 men to kill deer & fowls this morning at half past 1
oClock Capt. Lewis and his Party returned haveing around passd. Point
Disapointment and Some distance on the main Ocian to the N W. Several
Indians followed him & Soon after a canoe with wapto roots, &
Lickorish boiled, which they gave as presents, in return for which we gave
more than the worth to Satisfy,them a bad practice to receive a present of
Indians, as they are never Satisfied in return. our hunters killed 3 Deer
& th fowler 2 Ducks & q brant I Surveyed a little on the corse
& made Some observns. The Chief of the nation below us Came up to See
us the name of the nation is Chin-nook and is noumerous live principally
on fish roots a fiew Elk and fowls. they are well armed with good Fusees.
I directed all the men who wished to See more of the Ocean to Get ready to
Set out with me on tomorrow day light. the following men expressed a wish
to accompany me i'e Seri. Nat Pryor Serjt. J. Ordway, Jo. Fields R.
Fields, Jo. Shannon, Jo Colter, William Bratten, Peter Wiser, Shabono
& my Servant York. all others being well Contented with what part of
the Ocean & its curiosities which Could be Seen from the vicinity of
our Camp.
[Clark, November 17, 1805]
November 17th Sunday 1805 A fair cool morning wind from the East. The tide
rises at this place 8 feet 6 inches and comes in with great waves brakeing
on the Sand beech on which we lay with great fury Six hunters out this
morning in serch of Deer & fowl.
At half past 1 oClock Capt Lewis returned haveing travesed Haleys Bay to
Cape Disapointment and the Sea Coast to the North for Some distance.
Several Chinnook Indians followed (,apt L — and a Canoe came up with
roots mats &c. to Sell. those Chinnooks made us a present of a rute
boiled much resembling the common liquorice in taste and Size; in return
for this root we gave more than double the value to Satisfy their craveing
dispostn. It is a bad practice to receive a present from those Indians as
they are never Satisfied for what they reive in return if ten time the
value of the articles they gave. This Chin nook Nation is about 400 Souls
inhabid the Countrey on the Small rivrs which run into the bay below us
and on the Ponds to the N W of us, live principally on fish and roots,
they are well armed with fusees and Sometimes kill Elk Deer and fowl. our
hunters killed to day 3 Deer, 4 brant and 2 Ducks, and inform me they Saw
Some Elk Sign. I directed all the men who wished to See more of the main
Ocian to prepare themselves to Set out with me early on tomorrow morning.
The principal Chief of the Chinnooks & his familey came up to See us
this evening-
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
Novr. 18th Monday 1805 a little Cloudy this morning I set out at day light
with 10 men & my Sevent, Shabono, Sergt. Pryer odderway Jos. & R.
Fields Shannon Colter, wiser, Lebiech & york proceeded on Down the
Shore from the 1st point
At a run & Island near the Shore here the Traders ancher & trade?
we passed at each point a Soft Clifts of yellow, brown & dark Soft
Stones here Capt Lewis myself & Severl. of the men marked our names
day of the month & by Land &c. &c. from this S. W. 3 miles to
the Iner pt. of Cape Disapointmt passed a point & 2 Small nitches
(Reuben Fields killed a Vulter) we found a Curious fiat fish Shaped like a
turtle, with fins on each side, and a tale notched like a fish, the
Internals on one Sid and tale & fins flat wise This fish Flownder has
a white on one Side & lies flat to the Ground — passed from last
hitch across to the ocean 1/2 a mile low land the Cape is a high Partly
bald hill, founded on rock, I assencled a high Seperate bald hill Covered
with long corse grass & Seperated from the hight of Country by a
Slashey bottom 2 miles S. 60 W of the Cape — thence to a 2d Grassey pt
is N. 50° W. 2 miles, Those hills are founded on rocks & the waves
brake with great fury against them, the Coast is Sholey for Several miles
of this Cape & for Some distance off to the N W a Sand bar in the
mouth. Sholey Some distance out from the mouth The Coast from the Cape N W
is open for a Short distance back then it becomes thick piney Countrey
intersperced with ponds
Point addams is S 20° W about 20 miles the Course on that Side bears S 45
W. I cannot assertain the prosise Course of the Deep water in the mouth of
the river, the Channel is but narrow. I proceeded on up above the 2d point
and Encamped on the Shore above the high tide, evening Clear, for a Short
time. Supd. on Brant and pounded fish men all Chearfull, express a Desire
to winter near the falls this winter.
[Clark, November 18, 1805]
November 18h Monday 1805 A little cloudy this morning I Set out with to
men and my man York to the Ocian by land. i. e. Seijt. Ordway & Pryor,
Jos. & Ru. Fields, Go. Shannon, W. Brattin, J. Colter, P. Wiser, W.
Labieche & P. Shabono one of our interpreters & York. I Set out at
Day light and proceeded on a Sandy beech from Cape Disapointment to a high
point of a Mountn. which we shall call Clarke's Point of View beares S.
20° W. about 40 miles, point adams is verry low and is Situated within the
direction between those two high points of land, the water appears verry
Shole from off the mouth of the river for a great distance, and I cannot
assertain the direction of the deepest Chanel, the Indians point nearest
the opposit Side. the waves appear to brake with tremendious force in
every direction quite across a large Sand bar lies within the mouth
nearest to point Adams which is nearly covered at high tide. I suped on
brant this evening with a little pounded fish. Some rain in the after part
of the night. men appear much Satisfied with their trip beholding with
estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence
ocian
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805 began to rain a little before day and Continued
raining untill 11 oClock I proceeded on thro emencely bad thickets &
hills crossing 2 points to a 3rd on which we built a fire and Cooked a
Deer which Jos. Field Killd. from this point I can See into a Deep bend in
the coast to the N. E. for 10 miles. after Brackfast I proceeded on N. 20
E. 5 miles to Comcement a large Sand bar at a low part ponds a little off
from the Coast here the high rockey hills end and a low marshey Countrey
Suckceed. I proceeded up the Course N. 10° W. 4 miles & marked my name
& the Day of the Month on a pine tree, the waters which Wash this Sand
beach is tinged with a deep brown Colour for Some distance out. The Course
Contd. is N. 20° W. low Coast and Sand beech, Saw a Dead Sturgen 10 feet
long on the Sand, & the back bone of a Whale, as I conceived raind I
then returned to the Cape & dined, Some curious Deer on this Course
darker large boded Shorte legs Pronged horns & the top of the tale
black under part white as usial passed a nitch in the rocks below into
which falls a Stream, after Dinner I Set out on my return S. E. passed
over a low ridge & thro a piney countrey 21 Vs miles to the Bay,
thence up the Bay to the mouth of the Chen-nook River Crossed in the Canoe
we had left there & Encamped on the upper Side The Hills in the point
of this bay are not high, & imedeately below this River the present
yellow Bluffs above the River and up for about 2 miles the land is low
Slashey and Contains much drift wood, the Countrey up this Creek is low
with Copse of high land or as I may Say elevated. The Buzzard which Ruben
Fields killed diameter of one feather is — 11/4 & 1 Line from the
tip of one to the tip of the other wing is 9 feet 0 Inches, from the point
of the Bill to the tale is 3 feet 101/4 Ins. middle Toe 51/2 Inches, Toe
nale 1 Inches wing feather 2 feet 1/2 In. Tale feathers 141/4 In. Head is
61/4 Inch long including the beek
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
November 19th Tuesday 1805 a Cloudy rainey day proceeded up the Coast
which runs from my camp 11/4 miles west of the iner extry of the Cape N.
20° W. 5 miles through a rugged hilley countrey thickly off the Sea coast
to the Comencment of an extencive Sand beech which runs N. 10° W. to point
Lewis about 20 miles distance. I proceeded up this coast 4 miles and
marked my name on a low pine. and returned 3 miles back (The Countrey
opsd. this Sand Coast is low and Slashey,) Crossed the point 2 miles to
the bay and encamped on Chinnook river — See another book for
perticulars
[Clark, November 19, 1805]
Tuesday November the 19th 1805 I arose early this morning from under a wet
blanket caused by a Shower of rain which fell in the latter part of the
last night and Sent two men on a head with directions to proceed on near
the Sea Coast and Kill Something for brackfast and that I Should follow my
Self in about half an hour. after drying our blankets a little I Set out
with a view to proceed near the Coast the direction of which induced me to
conclude that at the distance of 8 or 10 miles, the Bay was at no great
distance across. I overtook the hunters at about 3 miles, they had killed
a Small Deer on which we brackfast it comened raining and Continud
moderately untill 11 oClock A M.
after takeing a Sumptious brackfast of venison which was rosted on Stiks
exposed to the fire, I proceeded on through ruged Country of high hills
and Steep hollers on a course from the Cape N 20° W. 5 miles on a Direct
line to the Commencement of a Sandy Coast which extended N. 10° W. from
the top of the hill above the Sand Shore to a Point of high land distant
near 20 miles. this point I have taken the Liberty of Calling after my
particular friend Lewis — at the commencement of this Sand beech the
high lands leave the Sea coast in a Direction to Chinnook river, and does
not touch the Sea Coast again below point Lewis leaveing a low pondey
countrey, maney places open with small ponds in which there is great
numbr. of fowl I am informed that the Chinnook Nation inhabit this low
countrey and live in large wood houses on a river which passes through
this bottom Parrilal to the Sea coast and falls into the Bay
I proceeded on the Sandy Coast 4 miles, and marked my name on a Small
pine, the Day of the month & year, &c. and returned to the foot of
the hill, from which place I intended to Strike across to The Bay, I saw a
Sturgeon which had been thrown on Shore and left by the tide 10 feet in
length, and Several joints of the back bone of a whale which must have
foundered on this part of the Coast. after Dineing on the remains of our
Small Deer I proceeded through over a land S E with Some Ponds to the bay
distance about 2 miles, thence up to the mouth of Chinnook river 2 miles,
crossed this little river in the Canoe we left at its mouth and Encamped
on the upper Side in an open Sandy bottom — The hills next to the bay
Cape disapointment to a Short distance up the Chinnook river is not verry
high thickly Coverd. with different Species of pine &c. maney of which
are large, I observed in maney places pine of 3 or 4 feet through growing
on the bodies of large trees which had fallen down, and covered with moss
and yet part Sound. The Deer of this Coast differ materially from our
Common deer in a much as they are much darker deeper bodied Shorter ledged
horns equally branched from the beem the top of the tail black from the
rute to the end Eyes larger and do not lope but jump-.
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Novr. 20 Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night despatchd. 3 men to hunt Jo.
Fields & Cotter to hunt Elk & Labich to kill some Brant for our
brackfast The Morning Cleared up fare and we proceeded on by the Same rout
we went out, at the River we found no Indians. made a raft & Ruben
Fields Crossed and took over a Small Canoe which lay at the Indian Cabin — This
Creek is at this time of high tide 300 yards wide & the marshes for
Some distance up the Creek Covered with water. not an Indian to be Seen
near the Creek. I proceeded on to Camp & on my way was over taken by 3
Indians one gave us Sturgeon & Wapto roots to eate I met Several
parties on way all of them appeared to know me & was distant, found
all well at Camp, maney Indians about one of which had on a robe made of 2
Sea Orter Skins. Capt Lewis offered him many things for his Skins with
others a blanket, a coat all of which he refused we at length purchased it
for a belt of Blue Beeds which the Squar had- The tide being out we walked
home on the beech
[Clark, November 20, 1805]
Wednesday November the 20th 1805 Some rain last night dispatched Labiech
to kill Some fowl for our brackfast he returned in about 2 hours with 8
large Ducks on which we brackfast I proceeded on to the enterance of a
Creek near a Cabin no person being at this cabin and 2 Canoes laying on
the opposit Shore from us, I deturmined to have a raft made and Send a man
over for a canoe, a Small raft was Soon made, and Reuben Fields Crossed
and brought over a Canoe — This Creek which is the outlet of a number
of ponds, is at this time (high tide) 300 yds wide — I proceeded on up
the Beech and was overtaken by three Indians one of them gave me Some
dried Sturgeon and a fiew wappato roots, I employd Those Indians to take
up one of our Canoes which had been left by the first party that Came
down, for which Service I gave them each a fishing hook of a large Size — on
my way up I met Several parties of Chinnooks which I had not before Seen
they were on their return from our Camp. all those people appeard to know
my deturmonation of keeping every individual of their nation at a proper
distance, as they were guarded and resurved in my presence &c. found
maney of the Chin nooks with Capt. Lewis of whome there was 2 Cheifs Com
com mo ly & Chil-lar-la-wil to whome we gave Medals and to one a flag.
one of the Indians had on a roab made of 2 Sea Otter Skins the fur of them
were more butifull than any fur I had ever Seen both Capt. Lewis & my
Self endeavored to purchase the roab with different articles at length we
precured it for a belt of blue beeds which the Squar-wife of our
interpreter Shabono wore around her waste. in my absence the hunters had
killed Several Deer and fowl of different kinds
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
November 21st Thursday 1805 a Cloudy morning most of the Indians left us,
The nation on the opposit Side is Small & Called Clap-soil, Their
great chief name Stil-la-sha The nation liveing to the North is Called
Chieltz. The chief is name Malaugh not large nation and wore his beards as
informed by the Inds. In my absence the hunters Kild. 7 Deer, 4 brants
& a Crane.
Great numbers of the dark brant passing Southerley, the white yet
Stationary, no gees & Swan to be Seen. The wind blew hard from the S.
E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised emence Swells &
waves which almost entered our Encampment morng. dark & Disagreeable,
a Supriseing Climent. We have not had One cold day Since we passed below
the last falls or great Shute & Some time before the Climent is
temperate, and the only change we have experienced is from fair weather to
rainey windey weather — I made a chief & gave a medel this man is
name Tow-wall and appears to have Some influence with the nation and tells
me he lives at the great Shute-we gave the Squar a Coate of Blue Cloth for
the belt of Blue Beeds we gave for the Sea otter Skins purchased of an
Indian. at 12 oClock it began to rain, and continued moderately all day,
Some wind from the S. E., waves too high for us to proceed on our homeward
bound journey. Lattitude of this place is 46° 19' 11 1/10" North Several
Indians and Squars came this evening I beleave for the purpose of
gratifying the passions of our men, Those people appear to View Sensuality
as a necessary evile, and do not appear to abhore this as Crime in the
unmarried females. The young women Sport openly with our men, and appear
to receive the approbation of their friends & relations for So doing
maney of the women are handsom.
They are all low both men and women, I saw the name of J. Bowmon marked or
picked on a young Squars left arm. The women of this nation Pick their
legs in different figures as an orpiment. they were their hair loose, Some
trinkets in their ears, none in the nose as those above, their Dress is as
follows, i,e the men, were a roabe of either the skins of ____ a Small
fured animal, & which is most common, or the Skins of the Sea orter,
Loon, Swan, Beaver, Deer, Elk, or blankets either red, blu, or white,
which roabes cover the sholders arms & body, all other parts are nakd.
The women were a Short peticoat of the iner bark of the white Ceder or
Arber Vita, which hang down loose in Strings nearly as low as the knee,
with a Short Robe which fall half way down the Thigh. no other part is
Covered. The orniments are beeds, Blue principally, large Brass wire
around their rists Som rings, and maney men have Salors Clothes, many have
good fusees & Ball & Powder — The women ware a String of
Something curious tied tight above the anckle, all have large Swelled legs
& thighs The men Small legs & thighs and Generally badly made — They
live on Elk Deer fowls, but principally fish and roots of 3 Kinds,
Lickorish, Wapto &c. The women have more privalages than is Common
amongst Indians — Pocks & Venerial is Common amongst them I Saw
one man & one woman who appeared to be all in Scabs, & Several men
with the venereal, their other Disorders and the remides for them I could
not lern we divided Some ribin between the men of our party to bestow on
their favourite Lasses, this plan to Save the knives & more valueable
articles.
Those people gave me Sturgion Salmon & wapto roots, & we bought
roots, Some mats &c. &c. for which we were obliged to give emence
prices — we also purchased a kind of Cranberry which the Indians Say
the geather in the low lands, off of Small either vines or bushes just
abov the ground — we also purchased hats made of Grass &c. of
those Indians, Some very handsom mats made of flags-Some fiew curious
baskets made of a Strong weed & willow or ____ Splits-, also a Sweet
Soft black root, about th Sise & Shape of a Carrot, this root they
Value verry highly- The Wapto root is Scerce, and highly valued by those
people, this root they roste in hot ashes like a potato and the outer Skin
peals off, tho this is a trouble they Seldom perform.
[Clark, November 21, 1805]
Thursday November 21st 1805 a cloudy morning most of the Chinnooks leave
our Camp and return home, great numbers of the dark brant passing to the
South, the white Brant have not yet commenced their flight. The wind blew
hard from the S. E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised verry
high waves which broke with great violence against the Shore throwing
water into our Camp — the fore part of this day Cloudy at 12 oClock it
began to rain and Continud all day moderately, Several Indians Visit us to
day of differant nations or Bands Some of the Chiltz Nation who reside on
the Sea Coast near Point Lewis, Several of the Clotsops who reside on the
opposit Side of the Columbia imediately opposit to us, and a Chief from
the Grand rapid to whome we gave a Medal.
An old woman & wife to a Cheif of the Chinnooks came and made a Camp
near ours She brought with her 6 young Squars I believe for the purpose of
gratifying the passions of the men of our party and receving for those
indulgiences Such Small as She (the old woman) thought proper to accept
of, Those people appear to view Sensuality as a Necessary evel, and do not
appear to abhor it as a Crime in the unmarried State — The young
females are fond of the attention of our men and appear to meet the
sincere approbation of their friends and connections, for thus obtaining
their favours; the womin of the Chinnook Nation have handsom faces low and
badly made with large legs & thighs which are generally Swelled from a
Stopage of the circulation in the feet (which are Small) by maney Strands
of Beeds or curious Strings which are drawn tight around the leg above the
anckle, their legs are also picked with different figures, I Saw on the
left arm of a Squar the following letters,. Bowmon, all those are
Considered by the natives of this quarter as handsom deckerations, and a
woman without those deckorations is Considered as among the lower Class
they ware their hair lose hanging over their back and Sholders maney have
blue beeds threaded & hung from different parts of their ears and
about ther neck and around their wrists, their dress other wise is
prosisely like that of the Nation of Wa ci a cum as already discribed. a
Short roab, and tissue or kind of peticoat of the bark of Cedar which fall
down in Strings as low as the knee behind and not So low before maney of
the men have blankets of red blue or Spotted Cloth or the common three
& 21/2 point blankets, and Salors old Clothes which they appear to
prise highly, they also have robes of Sea Otter, Beaver, Elk, Deer, fox
and Cat common to this countrey, which I have never Seen in the U States.
They also precure a roabe from the nativs above, which is made of the
Skins of a Small animal about the Size of a Cat, which is light and
dureable and highly prized by those people — the greater numbers of
the men of the Chinnooks have Guns and powder and Ball — The Men are
low homely and badly made, Small Crooked legs large feet, and all of both
Sects have flattened heads — The food of this nation is principally
fish & roots the fish they precure from the river by the means of nets
and gigs, and the Salmon which run up the Small branches together with
what they collect drifted up on the Shores of the Sea coast near to where
they live
The roots which they use are Several different kinds, the Wappato which
they precure from the nativs above, a black root which they call Shaw-na
tah que & the wild licquorish is the most Common, they also kill a
fiew Elk Deer & fowl — maney of the Chinnooks appear to have
venerious and pustelus disorders. one woman whome I saw at the beech
appeared all over in Scabs and ulsers &c.
we gave to the men each a pece of ribin We purchased Cramberies Mats verry
netely made of flags and rushes, Some roots, Salmon and I purchased a hat
made of Splits & Strong grass, which is made in the fashion which was
common in the U States two years ago also Small baskets to hold Water made
of Split and Straw, for those articles we gave high prices-.
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Novr. 22nd Friday 1805 Some little rain all the last night with wind,
before day the wind increased to a Storm from the S. S. E. and blew with
violence throwing the water of the river with emence waves out of its
banks almost over whelming us in water, O! how horriable is the day — This
Storm Continued all day with equal violence accompanied with rain, Several
Indians about us, nothing killed the waves & brakers flew over our
Camp, one Canoe Split by the Tossing of those waves — we are all
Confined to our Camp and wet. purchased some Wapto roots for which was
given, brass armbans & rings of which the Squars were fond. we find
the Indians easy ruled and kept in order by a Stricter indifference
towards them
[Clark, November 22, 1805]
Friday November 22nd 1805 a moderate rain all the last night with wind, a
little before Day light the wind which was from the S S. E. blew with Such
violence that we wer almost overwhelmned with water blown from the river,
this Storm did not Sease at day but blew with nearly equal violence
throughout the whole day accompaned with rain. O! how horriable is the day
waves brakeing with great violence against the Shore throwing the Water
into our Camp &c. all wet and Confind to our Shelters, Several Indian
men and women Crouding about the mens Shelters to day, we purchased a fiew
wappato roots for which we gave armbans, & rings to the old Squar,
those roots are equal to the Irish potato, and is a tolerable Substitute
for bread
The threat which I made to the men of this nation whome I first Saw, and
an indifference towards them, is I am fulley Convinced the Cause of their
Conducting themselves with great propriety towards ourselves & Party.
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
November 23rd Saturday 1805 The Cloudy and Calm, a moderate rain the
greater part of the last night, Sent out men to hunt this morning and they
Killed 3 Bucks, rained at intervales all day. I marked my name the Day of
the month & year on a Beech trees & (By Land) Capt Lewis Branded
his and the men all marked their nams on trees about the Camp. one Indian
Came up from their village on some lakes near Haleys bay. In the Evening 7
Indians of the Clatt Sopp nation, opposit Came over, they brought with
them 2 Sea orter Skins, for which the asked Such high prices we were
uneabled to purchase, without reduceing our Small Stock of merchindize on
which we have to depend in part for a Subsistance on our return home,
Kiled 4 brant & 3 Ducks to day
[Clark, November 23, 1805]
Saturday November 22rd 1805. A calm Cloudy morning, a moderate rain the
greater part of the last night, Capt Lewis Branded a tree with his name
Date &c. I marked my name the Day & year on a Alder tree, the
party all Cut the first letters of their names on different trees in the
bottom. our hunters killed 3 Bucks, 4 Brant & 3 Ducks to day.
in the evening Seven indians of the Clot Sop Nation Came over in a Canoe,
they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins for which they asked blue beads
&c. and Such high pricies that we were unable to purchase them without
reducing our Small Stock of merchendize, on which we depended for
Subcistance on our return up this river — mearly to try the Indian who
had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief a bunch of
red beads and a dollar of the American Coin, all of which he refused and
demanded "ti-a, co-mo-shack" which is Chief beads and the most common blue
beads, but fiew of which we have at this time
This nation is the remains of a large nation destroyed by the Small pox or
Some other which those people were not acquainted with, they Speak the
Same language of the Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect except
that of Stealing, which we have not Cought them at as yet.
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
November 24th Sunday 1805 Several of the Chenn nook N. Came, one of them
brought an Sea orter Skin for which we gave Some blue Beeds — This day
proved to be fair and we dried our wet articles bedding &c. The
hunters killed only 1 brant no Deer or any thing else
The old chief of Chinn-nook nation and Several men & women Came to our
camp this evening & Smoked the pipe
Janey in favour of a place where there is plenty of Potas.
Cp L Proceed on to morrow & examine The other side if good hunting to
winter there, as Salt is an objt. if not to proceed on to Sandy it is
probable that a vestle will come in this winter, & that by proceeding
on at any distance would not inhance our journey in passing the Rockey
mountains, &c.
W C. In favour of proceding on without delay to the opposit Shore &
there examine, and find out both the disposition of the Indians, &
probibilaty of precureing Subsistance, and also enquire if the Tradeing
vestles will arrive before the time we Should depart in the Spring, and if
the Traders, Comonly arive in a Seasonable time, and we Can Subsist
without a depends. on our Stores of goods, to Continue as the Climent
would be more favourable on the Sea Coast for our naked men than higher up
the Countrey where the Climate must be more Severe — The advantage of
the arival of a vestle from whome we Can precure goods will be more than
an over ballance, for the bad liveing we Shall have in liveing on Pore
deer & Elk we may get in this neighbourhood. If we Cannot subsist on
the above terms to proceed on, and make Station Camps, to neighbourhood of
the Frendly village near the long narrows & delay untill we Can
proceed up the river. Salt water I view as an evil in as much as it is not
helthy — I am also of opinion that one two or three weeks Exemination
on the opposide if the propects are any wise favourable, would not be too
long
Variation of the Compass is 16° East
[Clark, November 24, 1805]
Sunday November 24th 1805. A fair morning Sent out 6 hunters, and we
proceeded to make the following observations a Chief and Several men of
the Chin nook nation Came to Smoke with us this evening one of the men
brought a Small Sea otter Skin for which we gave Some blue beads — this
day proved fair which gave us an oppertunity of drying our wet articles,
bedding &c. &c. nothing killed to day except one Brant. the
variation of the Compass is 16° East.
being now determined to go into Winter quarters as Soon as possible, as a
convenient Situation to precure the Wild animals of the forest which must
be our dependance for Subsisting this Winter, we have every reason to
believe that the nativs have not provisions Suffient for our Consumption,
and if they had, their price's are So high that it would take ten times as
much to purchase their roots & Dried fish as we have in our possesion,
encluding our Small remains of merchindz and Clothes &c. This Certinly
enduces every individual of the party to make diligient enquiries of the
nativs the part of the Countrey in which the wild Animals are most plenty.
They generaly agree that the most Elk is on the opposit Shore, and that
the greatest numbers of Deer is up the river at Some distance above
The Elk being an animal much larger than Deer, easier to kiled better meat
(in the winter when pore) and Skins better for the Clothes of our party;
added to, a convenient Situation to the Sea coast where we Could make
Salt, and a probibility of vessels Comeing into the mouth of Columbia
("which the Indians inform us would return to trade with them in 3
months") from whome we might precure a fresh Supply of Indian trinkets to
purchase provisions on our return home; together with the Solicitations of
every individual, except one of our party induced us Conclude to Cross the
river and examine the opposit Side, and if a Sufficent quantity of Elk
could probebly be precured to fix on a Situation as convenient to the Elk
& Sea Coast as we Could find — added to the above advantagies in
being near the Sea Coast one most Strikeing one occurs to me i e, the
Climate which must be from every appearance much milder than that above
the 1st range of Mountains, The Indians are Slightly Clothed and give an
account of but little Snow, and the weather which we have experiened Since
we arrived in the neighbourhood of the Sea Coast has been verry warm, and
maney of the fiew days past disagreeably So. if this Should be the Case it
will most Certainly be the best Situation of our naked party dressed as
they are altogether in leather.
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
November 25th Munday 1805 a fine day Several Indians Come up from below,
we loaded and Set out up the river, and proceeded on to the Shallow Bay,
landed to dine, The Swells too high to cross the river, agreeabley to our
wish which is to examine if game Can be precured Sufficent for us to
winter on that Side, after dinner which was on Drid pounded fish we
proceeded on up on the North Side to near the place of our Encampment of
the 7th Instant and encamped after night The evening cloudy wind of to day
Generally from the E S. E, Saw from near of last Campment Mount Ranier
bearing ____
[Clark, November 25, 1805]
Monday 25th November 1805 The Wind being high rendered it impossible for
us to Cross the river from our Camp, we deturmind to proceed on up where
it was narrow, we Set out early accompanied by 7 Chit Sops for a fiew
miles, they left us and Crossed the river through emence high waves; we
Dined in the Shallow Bay on Dried pounded fish, after which we proceeded
on near the North Side of the Columbia, and encamp a little after night
near our Encampment of the 7th instant near a rock at Some distance in the
river. evening Cloudy the Winds of to day is generally E. S. E which was a
verry favourable point for us as the highlands kept it from us Mt. St.
Hilians Can be Seen from the mouth of this river.
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
November 26th Tuesday 1805 Cloudy and Some rain this morning at daylight
wind blew from the E N. E, we Set out and proceeded on up on the North
Side of this great river to a rock in the river from thence we Crossed to
the lower point of an ____ Island passed between 2 Islands to the main
Shore, and proceeded down the South Side, passed 2 Inlets & halted
below the 2d at a Indian village of 9 large houses — those Indians
live on an emenence behind a Island or a Channel of the river not more
than 300 yds wide, they live on fish & Elk and Wapto roots, of which
we bought a few at a high price they Call them Selves Cat-tar-bets
description
We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep bend to the South, we
had not been Encamped long ere 3 Indians Came in a Canoe to trade the
Wapto roots — we had rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad
place to Camp all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered
brushey & almost impossible to penetrate we Saw on an Island below the
village a place of deposit for the dead in Canoes
Great numbers of Swan Geese Brant Ducks & Gulls in this great bend
which is Crouded with low Islands covered with weeds grass &c. and
overflowed every flood tide The people of the last village is____ they
ask emence prices for what they have to Sel Blue Beeds is their great
trade they are fond of Clothes or blankits of Blue red or brown We are now
decending to see if a favourable place should offer on the So Side to
winter &c.
from a high Point opsd. a high Isd down the South Side is S. 30° W 6° mis
to a point of low land opsd. upr. pt of Isd. passed lowr. pt. 1st Isd.
marshey. at the upr. pt. Of 2 low Isd. opsd. each other at 4 miles
[Clark, November 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th November 1805 Cloudy and Some rain this morning from 6
oClock. wind from the E. N. E, we Set out out early and crossed a Short
distance above the rock out in the river, & between Some low marshey
Islands to the South Side of the Columbia at a low bottom about 3 miles
below Point Samuel and proceeded near the South Side leaveing the Seal
Islands to our right and a marshey bottom to the left 5 Miles to the
Calt-har-mar Village of 9 large wood houses on a handsom elivated
Situation near the foot of a Spur of the high land behind a large low
Island Seperated from the Southerly Shore by a Chanel of about 200 yards
Wide, This nation appear to differ verry little either in language,
Customs dress or appearance from the Chin nooks & War-ci a cum live
principally on fish and pappato they have also other roots, and Some Elk
meat.
We purchased Some green fish, & wap pa to for which we gave Imoderate
pricie's. after dining on the fresh fish which we purchased, we proceeded
on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high hill, where
we found much difficuelty in precureing wood to burn, as it was raining
hard, as it had been the greater part of the day. Soon after we encamped 3
Indians of the last town Came in a Canoe with wappato roots to Sell to us
Some of which we purchased with fish hooksfrom the Village quite around
this bend to the West the land is high and thickly timbered with pine
balsom &c. a Short distance below the Calt har mer Village on the
Island which is Opposit I observed Several Canoes Scaffold in which
Contained their dead, as I did not examine this mode of deposing the dead,
must refer it to a discription hereafter.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
November 27th Wednesday 1805 Some rain all the last night & this
morning at day light 3 Canoes and 11 men Came down with roots meat, Skins
&c. to Sill, they asked Such high prices we were unable to purchase
any thing, and as we were about Setting out, discovered that one of those
Indians had Stole an ax, we Serched and found it under the roabe of one
man whome we Shamed verry much
we proceeded on, around Point William th Swells became high and rained so
hard we Concluded to halt and dry our Selves, Soon after our landing the
wind rose from the East and blew hard accompanied with rain, this rain
obliged us to unload & draw up our Canoes, one of which was Split to
feet before we got her out of the river, this place the Peninsoley is
about 50 yards and 3 miles around this point of Land. water Salt below not
Salt above.
[Clark, November 27, 1805]
Wednesday 27th November 1805 Rained all the last night and this morning it
Continues moderatelyat day light 3 Canoes and 11 Indians Came from the
Village with roots mats, Skins &c. to Sell, they asked Such high
prices that we were unable to purchase any thing of them, as we were about
to Set out missed one of our axes which was found under an Indians roab I
shamed this fellow verry much and told them they should not proceed with
us- we proceded on between maney Small Islands passing a Small river of
____ yds wide which the Indians Call ____ and around a verry remarkable
point which projects about 11/2 Miles directly towards the Shallow bay the
isthmus which joins it to the main land is not exceding 50 yards and about
4 Miles around. we call this Point William
below this point the waves became So high we were Compelled to land unload
and traw up the Canoes, here we formed a Camp on the neck of Land which
joins Point William to the main at an old indian hut. The rain Continued
hard all day we are all Wet and disagreeable. one Canoe Split before we
Got her out of the Water 2 feet — The water at our Camp Salt that
above the isthmus fresh and fine
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
November 28th Thursday 1805 Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard
accompanied with hard rain all last night, we are all wet bedding and
Stores, haveing nothing to keep our Selves or Stores dry, our Lodge nearly
worn out, and the pieces of Sales & tents So full of holes &
rotten that they will not keep any thing dry, we Sent out the most of the
men to drive the point for deer, they Scattered through the point; Some
Stood on the pensolu, we Could find no deer, Several hunters attempted to
penetrate the thick woods to the main South Side without Suckcess, the
Swan & gees wild and Cannot be approached, and wind to high to go
either back or forward, and we have nothing to eate but a little Pounded
fish which we purchasd. at the Great falls, This is our present
Situation,! truly disagreeable. aded to this the robes of our Selves and
men are all rotten from being Continually wet, and we Cannot precure
others, or blankets in their places. about 12 oClock the wind Shifted
about to the N. W and blew with great violence for the remainder of the
day at maney times it blew for 15 or 20 minits with Such violence that I
expected every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, Some were blown
down. Those Squals were Suckceeded by rain,! O how Tremendious is the day.
This dredfull wind and rain Continued with intervales of fair weather, the
greater part of the evening and night.
[Clark, November 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th November 1805 Wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew hard
accompanied with hard rain. rained all the last night we are all wet our
bedding and Stores are also wet, we haveing nothing which is Sufficient to
keep ourselves bedding or Stores dry Several men in the point hunting deer
without Suckcess, the Swan and brant which are abundant Cannot be
approached Sufficently near to be killed, and the wind and waves too high
to proceed on to the place we expect to find Elk, & we have nothing to
eate except pounded fish which we brought from the Great falls, this is
our present Situation; truly disagreeable. about 12 oClock the wind
Shifted around to the N W. and blew with Such violence that I expected
every moment to See trees taken up by the roots, maney were blown down.
This wind and rain Continued with Short intervales all the latter part of
the night. O! how disagreeable is our Situation dureing this dreadfull
weather.
[Lewis, November 29, 1805]
November 29th 1805. the wind being so high the party were unable to
proceed with the perogues. I determined therefore to proceed down the
river on it's E. side in surch of an eligible place for our winters
residence and accordingly set out early this morning in the small canoe
accompanyed by 5 men. drewyer R. Fields, Shannon, Colter & labiesh.
proceeded along the coast.
send out the hunters they killed 4 deer 2 brant a goos and seven ducks, it
rained upon us by showers all day. left three of these deer and took with
us one encamped at an old Indian hunting lodge which afforded us a
tolerable shelter from the rain, which continued by intervales throughout
the night.
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
November 29th Friday 1805 Blew hard and rained the greater part of the
last night and this morning, Capt Lewis and 5 men Set out in our Small
Indian canoe (which is made in the Indian fashion Calculated ride the
waves) down the South Side of the river to the place the Indians informed
us by Signs that numbers of Elk were to be found near the river — The
Swells and waves being too high for us to proceed down in our large
Canoes, in Safty
I Sent out two hunters to hunt deer, & one to hunt fowl, all the
others employed in drying their leather and prepareing it for use, as but
fiew of them have many other Clothes to boste of at this time, we are
Smoked verry much in this Camp The Shore on the Side next the Sea is
Covered with butifull pebble of various Colours — our diat at this
time and for Severall days past is the dried pounded fish we purchased at
the falls boiled in a little Salt water
[Clark, November 29, 1805]
Friday 29th of November 1805 The wind and rain Continued all the last
night, this morning much more moderate. the waves Still high and rain
Continues. Capt Lewis and 5 hunters Set out in our Indian Canoe (which is
Calculated to ride wave) dow to the place we expected to find Elk from the
Inds. information, they pointed to a Small Bay which is yet below us — I
Sent out 2 men to hunt Deer which I expected might be on the open hill
Sides below, another to hunt fowl in the deep bend above the point, all
the others engaged drying their leather before the fire, and prepareing it
for usethey haveing but fiew other Species of Clothing to ware at this
time
The winds are from Such points that we cannot form our Camp So as to
provent the Smoke which is emencely disagreeable, and painfull to the eyes — The
Shore below the point at our Camp is formed of butifull pebble of various
colours. I observe but fiew birds of the Small kind, great numbers of wild
fowls of Various kinds, the large Buzzard with white wings, grey and bald
eagle's, large red tailed Hawks, ravens & Crows in abundance, the blue
Magpie, a Small brown bird which frequents logs & about the roots of
trees — Snakes, Lizards, Small bugs, worms, Spiders, flyes &
insects of different kinds are to be Seen in abundance at this time.
[Lewis, November 30, 1805]
November 30th 1805. cloudy morning set out before sun rise and continued
our rout up the bey
Sent out three men to examin the country to the S. & W. they returned
after about 2 hours and informed me that the wood was so thick and
obstructed by marrasses & lakes that they were unable to proceed to
the ocean which could not be at any considerable distance fom the apparent
sound of the waves breaking on the Coast. we now returned and asscended
the inlet which we had last passd no fresh appearance of Elk or deer in
our rout so far. asscend the inlet as we intended about 1 m. found it
became much smaller and that it did not keep it's direction to the high
land which boar S. 10 W. but inclined West. therefore returned to the
large arm of the bay which we passed this morning. here we expect to meet
with the Clat-sop Indians, who have tantilized us with there being much
game in their neighbourhood. this information in fact was the cause of my
present resurch, for where there is most game is for us the most eliguble
winter station. — continued our rout up the large arm of the bay about
6 miles and encamped on the Stard. side on the highland. the water was
quite sweet. therefore concluded that it must be supplyed from a large
crick. at our camp it is 120 yds. wide, tho it gets narrower above. it
rained but little on us today tho it was cloudy generally. — Wind from
N. E. — saw a great abundance of fowls, brant, large geese, white
brant sandhill Cranes, common blue crains, cormarants, haulks, ravens,
crows, gulls and a great variety of ducks, the canvas back, duckinmallard,
black and white diver, brown duck — &c &c
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
November 30th Saturday 1805 Some rain and hail with intervales of fair
weather for 1 and 2 hours dureing the night and untill 9 oClock this
morning at which time it Cleared up fair and the Sun Shown, I Send 5 men
in a Canoe in the Deep bend above the Peninsulear to hunt fowles, & 2
men in the thick woods to hunt Elk had all our wet articles dried &
the men all employed dressing their Skins, I observe but few birds in this
Countrey of the Small kindsgreat numbers of wild fowl, The large Buzzard
with white under their wings Grey & Bald eagle large red tailed hawk,
ravins, Crows, & a small brown bird which is found about logs &c.
but fiew small hawks or other smaller birds to be seen at this time
Snakes, Lizzards, Snales bugs worms Spiders, flies & insects of
different kinds are to be Seen in plenty at this time. The Squar, gave me
a piece of Bread to day made of Some flower She had Cearfully kept for her
child, and had unfortunately got wet The hunters killed only 3 hawks, saw
3 Elk but Could not git a Shot at them, The fowlers, killed 3 black ducks,
with white Sharp bills, a brown Spot in their foward, Some white under the
tail, which Short, and a fiew of the tips of the wing feathers white,
Their toes are long Seperated and flaped, no Craw, keep in emence large
flocks in the Shallow waters & feed on Grass &c. Several men
Complaining of being unwell to day — a Broock comes in to the bend
above the 1st point above, and a river falls in the next nitch above this
river is Small, — I observe rose bushes Pine, a kind of ash a Species
of Beech and a Species of Maple, in addition to the pine Lorrel and under
groth Common to the woods in this Lower Countrey the hills are not high
& Slope to the river
[Clark, November 30, 1805]
Saturday 30th of November 1805 Some rain and hail with intervales of fair
weather for the Space of one or two hours at a time dureing the night
untill 9 oClock this morning, at which time it Cleared away and the Sun
Shewn for ____ hours, Several men out hunting I Send 5 men in the bend
above to hunt fowl &c. in a Canoe, employ all the others in drying our
wet articles by the fire Several men Complain of a looseness and gripeing
which I contribute to the diet, pounded fish mixed with Salt water, I
derect that in future that the party mix the pounded fish with fresh water — The
Squar gave me a piece of bread made of flour which She had reserved for
her child and carefully Kept untill this time, which has unfortunately got
wet, and a little Sour — this bread I eate with great Satisfaction, it
being the only mouthfull I had tasted for Several months past. my hunters
killed three Hawks, which we found fat and delicious, they Saw 3 Elk but
Could not get a Shot at them. The fowlers killed 3 black Ducks with Sharp
White beeks keep in large flocks & feed on Grass, they have no Craw
and their toes are Seperate, Common in the U. States
The Chinnooks Cath ldh mah & others in this neighbourhood bury their
dead in their Canoes. for this purpose 4 pieces of Split timber are Set
erect on end, and sunk a fiew feet in the ground, each brace having their
flat Sides opposit to each other and Sufficiently far assunder to admit
the width of the Canoe in which the dead are to be deposited; through each
of those perpindicular posts, at the hight of 6 feet a mortice is Cut,
through which two bars of wood are incerted; on those Cross bars a Small
Canoe is placed, in which the body is laid after beaing Carefully roled in
a robe of Some dressed Skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a
larger Canoe is now reversed, overlaying and imbracing the Small one, and
resting with its gunnals on the Cross bars; one or more large mats of
flags or rushes are then rold. around the Canoe and the whole Securely
lashed with a long Cord usially made of the bark of the arbar vita or
white Cedar. on the Cross bars which Support the Canoes is frequently hung
or laid various articles of Clothing Culinary utensils &c. we cannot
understand them Sufficiently to make any enquiries relitive to their
religious opinions, from their depositing Various articles with their
dead, beleve in a State of future ixistance.
I walked on the point and observed rose bushes different Species of pine,
a Spcies of ash, alder, a Species of wild Crab Loral and Several Species
of under Broth Common to this lower part of the Columbia river- The hills
on this Coast rise high and are thickly covered with lofty pine maney of
which are 10 & 12 feet through and more than 200 feet high. hills have
a Steep assent.
[Lewis, December 1, 1805]
December 1st 1805 Cloudy morning wind from the S. E. sent out the men to
hunt and examin the country, they soon returned all except Drewyer and
informed me that the wood was so thick it was almost impenetrable and that
there was but little appearance of game; they had seen the track of one
deer only and a few small grey squirrels. these suirrels are about the
size of the red squirrel of the lakes and eastern Atlantic States, their
bellies are of a redish yellow, or tanners ooze colour the tale flat and
as long as the body eyes black and moderately large back and sides of a
greyish brown the brier with a brown bark and three laves which put forth
at the extremety of the twigs like the leaves of the blackbury brier, tho
is a kind of shrub and rises sometimes to the hight of 10 feet the green
brier yet in leaf; the ash with a remarkable large leaf; the large black
alder. the large elder with skey blue buries. the broad leave shrub which
grows something like the quill wood but has no joints, the leaf broad and
deeply indented the bark peals hangs on the stem and is of a yelowish
brown colour. the seven bark is also found here as is the common low
cramburry-there is a wild crab apple which the natives eat this growth
differs but little in appearance from that of the wild crab of the
Atlantic States. but the fruit consists of little oval hurries which grow
in clusters at the extremities of the twigs like the black haws. the fruit
is of a brown colour, oval form and about double as large as the black
haw; the rind is smoth and tough somewhat hard; the seed is like that of
the wild crab and nearly as large; the pulp is soft of a pale yellow
coulour; and when the fruit has been touched by the frost is not
unpleasant, being an agreeable assed. the tree which bears a red burry in
clusters of a round form and size of a red haw. the leaf like that of the
small magnolia, and brark smoth and of a brickdust red coulour it appears
to be of the evergreen kind. — half after one oclock Drewyer not yet
arrived. heard him shoot 5 times just above us and am in hopes he has
fallen in with a gang of elk.
[Clark, December 1, 1805]
December 1st Sunday 1805 Cloudy windey morning wind from the East, Sent
out 2 hunters in the woods, I intended to take 5 men in a Canoe and hunt
the marshey Islands above, found the wind too high & returned to
partake of the dried fish, The day Some what Cooler than usial, but
Scercely perceveable. began to rain at Sun Set and Continued half the
night. my hunters returned without any thing Saw 2 gang of Elk a
disagreeable Situation, men all employed in mending their leather Clothes,
Socks &c. and Dressing Some Leather. The Sea which is imedeately in
front roars like a repeeted roling thunder and have rored in that way ever
Since our arrival in its borders which is now 24 Days Since we arrived in
Sight of the Great Western Ocian, I cant Say Pasific as Since I have Seen
it, it has been the reverse. Elegant Canoes
[Clark, December 1, 1805]
Sunday December 1st 1805 A cloudy windey morning wind from the East,
dispatched two hunters, I deturmined to take a Canoe & a fiew men and
hunt the marshey Islands above Point William, the Wind rose So high that I
could not proceed, and returned to partake the dried fish, which is our
Standing friend, began to rain hard at Sun Set and Continud. my hunters
returned without any thing haveing Seen 2 parcels of elk men all employed
to day in mending their leather Clothes, Shoes &c. and Dressing
leather.
The emence Seas and waves which breake on the rocks & Coasts to the S
W. & N W roars like an emence fall at a distance, and this roaring has
continued ever Since our arrival in the neighbourhood of the Sea Coast
which has been 24 days Since we arrived in Sight of the Great Western;
(for I cannot Say Pacific) Ocian as I have not Seen one pacific day Since
my arrival in its vicinity, and its waters are forming and petially
perpetually breake with emenc waves on the Sands and rockey Coasts,
tempestous and horiable. I have no account of Capt. Lewis Since he left
me.
[Clark, December 2, 1805]
December 2nd Monday 1805 Cloudy and Some little rain this morning I
despatched 3 men to hunt and 2 and my Servent in a Canoe to a Creek above
to try & Catch Some fish- I am verry unwell the drid fish which is my
only diet does not agree with me and Several of the men Complain of a lax,
and weakness — I expect Capt. Lewis will return to day with the
hunters and let us know if Elk or deer Can be found Sufficent for us to
winter on, If he does not come I Shall move from this place, to one of
better prospects for game &c. Joseph Fields came home with the marrow
bones of an Elk which he had killed 6 miles distant, I sent out 6 men in a
canoe for the meat, the evening being late they did not return this night,
which proved fair moon Shineing night — This is the first Elk we have
killed on this Side the rockey mounts a great deal of Elk Sign in the
neighbourhood
[Clark, December 2, 1805]
Monday 2nd December 1805 Cloudy with Some rain this morning I Send out
three men to hunt & 2 & my man york in a Canoe up the
Ke-ke-mar-que Creek in Serch of fish and fowl — I feel verry unwell,
and have entirely lost my appetite for the Dried pounded fish which is in
fact the cause of my disorder at present — The men are generally
Complaining of a lax and gripeing — In the evening Joseph Field came
in with the Marrow bones of a elk which he killed at 6 miles distant, this
welcome news to us. I dispatched Six men in a empty Canoe with Jo.
mediately for the elk which he Said was about 3 miles from the water this
is the first Elk which has been killd. on this Side of the rockey
mountains — Jo Fields givs me an account of a great deel of Elk Sign
& Says he Saw 2 Gangs of those Animals in his rout, but it rained So
hard that he could not Shoot them — The party up the Creek returned
without any thing and informs me they could not See any fish in the Creek
to kill and the fowls were too wild to be killed, this must
[Clark, December 3, 1805]
December 3rd Tuesday 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the East, the
men Sent after an Elk yesterday returnd. with an Elk which revived the
Sperits of my men verry much, I am unwell and cannot Eate, the flesh O!
how disagreeable my Situation, a plenty of meat and incaple of eateing any — an
Indian Canoe Came down with 8 Indians in it from the upper village, I gave
a fish hook for a fiew Wap-e-to roots, which I eate in a little Elk Supe,
The Indians proceeded on down. wind Confines to blow, and Serjt. Pryor
& Gibson who went to hunt yesterday has not returnd. as yet I marked
my name & the day of the month and year on a large Pine tree on this
Peninsella & by land Capt William Clark December 3rd 1805. By Land. U
States in 1804 & 1805" — The Squar Broke the two Shank bones of
the Elk after the marrow was taken out, boiled them & extracted a Pint
of Greese or tallow from them — Serjt. Pryor & Gibson returned
after night and informed me they had been lost the greater part of the
time they were out, and had killed 6 Elk which they left lying haveing
taken out their interals. Some rain this afternoon
[Clark, December 3, 1805]
Tuesday 3d December 1805 a fair windey morning wind from the East the men
returned with the Elk which revived the Spirits of my party verry much I
am Still unwell and Can't eate even the flesh of the Elk. an Indian Canoe
of 8 Indians Came too, those Inds. are on their way down to the Chit Sops
with Wap pa to to barter with that nation, I purchasd. a fiew of those
roots for which I gave Small fish hooks, those roots I eate with a little
Elks Soupe which I found gave me great relief I found the roots both
nurishing and as a check to my disorder. The Indians proceeded on down
through emence high waves maney times their Canoe was entirely out of
Sight before they were 1/2 a mile distance. Serjt. Pryor & Gibson who
went hunting yesterday has not returned untill after night, they informed
me that they had killed 6 Elk at a great distance which they left lying,
haveing taken out their interals that they had been lost and in their
ramble saw a great deel of Elk Sign. after eateing the marrow out of two
Shank bones of an Elk, the Squar choped the bones fine boiled them and
extracted a pint of Grease, which is Superior to the tallow of the animal.
Some rain this evening I marked my name on a large pine tree imediately on
the isthmus William Clark December 3rd 1805. By Land from the U. States in
1804 & 1805.
[Clark, December 4, 1805]
December 4th Wednesday 180151 Some little rain all the last night and this
morning after day the rain increased and Continued
I despatched Serjt. Pryer & 6 men to the Elk which he had killed
yesterday, with directions to Save the meet and take loads to the River
below in the next great bend — a Spring tide which rose 2 feet higher
than Common flud tides, and high water at 11 oClock to day — wind from
the S. E in the after noon hard wind from South — rained all day,
moderately the Swells too high for me to proceed down, as I intended, I
feel my self Something better and have an appetite to eate Something
[Clark, December 4, 1805]
Wednesday 4th December 1805 Some rain all the last night, this morning it
increased with the wind from the S. E. I Set out Sergiant Pryor and 6 men
to the Elk he had killed with directions to Carry the meat to a bay which
he informed me was below and as he believed at no great distance from the
Elk, and I Should proceed on to that bay as Soon as the wind would lay a
little and the tide went out in the evening — the Smoke is exceedingly
disagreeable and painfull to my eyes, my appetite has returned and I feel
much better of my late complaint — a Spring tide to day rose 2 feet
higher than Common flood tides and high water at 11 oClock — Hard wind
from the South this evening, rained moderately all day and the waves too
high for me to proceed in Safty to the bay as I intended, in Some part of
which I expected would be convenient for us to make winter quarters, the
reports of seven huntes agreeing that elke were in great abundance about
the Bay below. no account of Capt. Lewis. I fear Some accident has taken
place in his craft or party
[Clark, December 5, 1805]
December 5th Thursday 1805 Som hard Showers of rain last night, this morn
Cloudy and drisley rain, in the bay above the Showers appear harder. High
water to day at 12 oClock this tide is 2 Ins. higher than that of
yesterday all our Stores again wet by the hard Showers of last night Capt
Lewis's long delay below has been the cause of no little uneasiness on my
part for him, a 1000 conjectures has crouded into my mind respecting his
probable Situation & Safty — rained hard. Capt Lewis returned
haveing found a good Situation and Elk Suffient to winter on, his party
killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in their absence in Serch of a Situation and
game
Rain continued all the after pt. of the day accompanied with hard wind
from the S W. which provents our moveing from this Camp.
[Clark, December 5, 1805]
Thursday 5th of December 1805 Some hard Showers of rain last night, this
morning Cloudy and drisley at Some little distant above the isthmus the
rain is much harder. high water to day at 12 this tide is 2 inches higher
than that of yesterday. all our Stores and bedding are again wet by the
hard rain of last night. Capt. Lewis's long delay below, has been the
Sorce of no little uneasness on my part of his probable Situation and
Safty, the repeeted rains and hard winds which blows from the S, W.
renders it impossible for me to move with loaded Canoes along an unknown
Coast we are all wet & disagreeable; the party much better of
indispositions-. Capt. Lewis returned with 3 men in the Canoe and informs
me that he thinks that a Sufficient number of Elk may be prcured
Convenient to a Situation on a Small river which falls into a Small bay a
Short distance below, that his party had Killed 6 Elk & 5 Deer in his
rout, two men of his party left behind to Secure the Elk this was verry
Satisfactory information to all the party. we accordingly deturmined to
proceed on to the Situation which Capt. Lewis had Viewed as Soon as the
wind and weather Should permit and Comence building huts &c.
[Clark, December 6, 1805]
December 6th Friday 1805 Wind blew hard all the last night, and a moderate
rain, the waves verry high, This morning the wind which is Still from the
S W increased and rained Continued all day, at Dusk wind Shifted to the
North and it Cleared up and became fare, High water to day at 12 oClock
& 13 Inches higher than yesterday. we were obliged to move our Camp
out of the Water on high grown all wet.
[Clark, December 6, 1805]
Friday 6th of December 1805 The wind blew hard all the last night with a
moderate rain, the waves verry high, the wind increased & from the S.
W. and the rain Continued all day, about Dark the wind Shifted to the
North cleared away and became fair weather.
The high tide of today is 13 inches higher than yesterday, and obliged us
to move our Camp which was in a low Situation, on higher ground Smoke
exceedingly disagreeable.
[Clark, December 7, 1805]
December 7th Saturday 1805 Some rain from 10 to 12 last night this morning
fair, we Set out at 8 oClock down to the place Capt Lewis pitched on for
winter quarters, when he was down proceeded on against the tide at the
point No. 2 we met our men Sent down after meet
To point Adams is West
To pt. Disapointment N 75° W
They informed me that they found the Elk after being lost in the woods for
one Day and part of another, the most of the meat was Spoiled, they
distance was So great and uncertain and the way bad, they brought only the
Skins, york was left behind by Some accident which detained us Some time
eer he Came up after passing round the pt. No. 2 in verry high swells, we
Stopd & Dined in the commencement of a bay, after which proceeded on
around the bay to S E. & assended a Creek 8 miles to a high pt. &
Camped haveing passed arm makeing up to our left into the countrey
Mt. St. Helens is the mountain we mistook for Mt. Reeaneer
receved 2 Small Brooks on the East, extencive marshes at this place of
Encampment We propose to build & pass the winter, The situation is in
the Center of as we conceve a hunting Countrey — This day is fair
except about 12 oClock at which time Some rain and a hard wind imedeately
after we passed the point from the N. E which Continued for a about 2
hours and Cleared up. no meat
[Clark, December 7, 1805]
Saturday 7th of December 1805 Some rain from 10 to 12 last night, this
morning fair, have every thing put on board the Canoes and Set out to the
place Capt Lewis had viewed and thought well Situated for winter quarters — we
proceeded on against the tide to a point about ____ miles here we met
Sergt Pryor and his party returning to the Camp we had left without any
meat, the waves verry verry high, as much as our Canoes Could bear
rendered it impossible to land for the party, we proceeded on around the
point into the bay and landed to take brackfast on 2 Deer which had been
killed & hung up, one of which we found the other had been taken off
by some wild animal probably Panthors or the Wildcat of this Countrey here
all the party of Serjt Pryors joined us except my man york, who had Stoped
to rite his load and missed his way, Sergt Pryor informed us that he had
found the Elk, which was much further from the bay than he expected, that
they missed the way for one day and a half, & when he found the Elk
they were mostly Spoiled, and they only brought the Skins of 4 of the Elk
after brackfast I delayed about half an hour before York Came up, and then
proceeded around this Bay which I have taken the liberty of calling
Meriwethers Bay the Cristian name of Capt. Lewis who no doubt was the 1st
white man who ever Surveyed this Bay, we assended a river which falls in
on the South Side of this Bay 3 miles to the first point of high land on
the West Side, the place Capt. Lewis had viewed and formed in a thick
groth of pine about 200 yards from the river, this situation is on a rise
about 30 feet higher than the high tides leavel and thickly Covered with
lofty pine. this is certainly the most eligable Situation for our purposes
of any in its neighbourhood.
Meriwethers Bay is about 4 miles across deep & receves 2 rivers the
Kil how-d-nah-kle and the Ne tul and Several Small Creeks — we had a
hard wind from the N. E. and Some rain about 12 oClock to day which lasted
2 hours and Cleared away. From the Point above Meriwethers Bay
to Point Adams is West
to point Disapointment is N. 75° W
[Clark, December 8, 1805]
December 8th Sunday 1805 a Cloudy morning, I took 5 men and Set out to the
Sea to find the nearest place & make a way, to prevent our men getting
lost and find a place to make Salt, Steered S 62° W at 2 miles passed the
head of a Brook running to the right, the lands good roleing much falling
timber, lofty Pine of the Spruce kind, & Some fur, passed over a high
hill & to a Creek which we kept down 11/2 miles and left it to our
right, Saw fish in this Creek & Elk & Bear tracks on it, passed
over a ridge to a low marshey bottom which we Crossed thro water &
thick brush for 1/2 a mile to the Comencement of a Prarie which wavers,
Covered with grass & Sackay Commis, at 1/2 Crossed a marsh 200 yds
wide, boggey and arrived at a Creek which runs to the right. Saw a gange
of Elk on the opposit Side below, rafted the Creek, with much dificulty
& followed the Elk thro, emence bogs, & over 4 Small Knobs in the
bogs about 4 miles to the South & Killed an Elk, and formed a Camp,
Covered our Selves with the Elk Skins. the left of us Bogs & a lake or
pond those bogs Shake, much Cramberry growing amongst the moss. Some rain
this evening we made a harty Supper of the Elk & hung up the balsa
[Clark, December 8, 1805]
Sunday December 8th 1805 Fort Clatsop We haveing fixed on this Situation
as the one best Calculated for our Winter quarters I deturmin'd to go as
direct a Course as I could to the Sea Coast which we Could here roar and
appeared to be at no great distance from us, my principal object is to
look out a place to make Salt, blaze the road or rout that they men out
hunting might find the direction to the fort if they Should get lost in
cloudy weather-and See the probibillity of game in that direction, for the
Support of the Men, we Shall Send to make Salt, I took with me five men
and Set out on a Course S 60 W proceeded on a dividing ridge through lofty
piney land much falling timber. passed the heads of 2 brooks one of them
had wide bottoms which was over flown & we waded to our knees crossed
2 Slashes and arrived at a Creek in a open ridgey prarie covered with
Sackacomma this Creek we were obliged to raft, which is about 60 yards
over and runs in a direction to Point adams, we discovered a large gange
of Elk in the open lands, and we prosued them through verry bad Slashes
and Small ponds about 3 miles, Killed one and camped on a Spot Scercely
large enough to lie Clear of the Water. it is almost incredeable to assurt
the bogs which those animals Can pass through, I prosue'd this gang of Elk
through bogs which the wate of a man would Shake for 1/2 an Acre, and
maney places I Sunk into the mud and water up to my hips without finding
any bottom on the trale of those Elk. Those bogs are Covered with a kind
of moss among which I observe an ebundance of Cramberries. in those
Slashes Small Knobs are promisquisly Scattered about which are Steep and
thickly Covered with pine Common to the Countrey & Lorel. we made a
Camp of the Elk Skin to keep off the rain which Continued to fall, the
Small Knob on which we Camped did not afford a Sufficiency of dry wood for
our fire, we collected what dry wood we Could and what Sticks we Could Cut
down with the Tomahawks, which made us a tolerable fire.
[Clark, December 9, 1805]
December 9th Monday 1805 rained all the last night we are all wet, Send 2
men in pursute of the Elk & with the other 3 I Set out with a view to
find the Ocian in our first direction, which Can be at no great Distance,
I crossed 3 Slashes by wadeing to my knees & was prevented proceeding
by the 4th which was a pond of 200 yds. we. I went around, and was Stoped
by a 5th which apd. to be a rung Stream to the right. I then returned to
the raft and recrossd. & proceeded down the Stream I first Struck
about 2 miles & met 3 Indians, who informed me they lived on the See
cost at a Short distance, I de-termd. to accompany them to their vilg.
& we Set out, crossed the Stream, and 2 of the Indians took the Canoe
over the wavering open rich plains for 1/2 a mile and we Crossed the same
stream which run to the left, we then left the canoe and proceeded to the
Same Stream which runs to the right and empties its Self into the See here
I found their vilg. 4 Lodges on the west bank of this little river which
is here 70 yards wide, Crossed in a Canoe & was invited to a lodge by
a young Chief was treated great Politeness, we had new mats to Set on, and
himself and wife produced for us to eate, fish, Lickorish, & black
roots, on neet Small mats, and Cramberries & Sackacomey berris, in
bowls made of horn, Supe made of a kind of bread made of berries common to
this Countrey which they gave me in a neet wooden trencher, with a Cockle
Shell to eate it with It began to rain and with a tremendious storm from
the S. W. which lasted untill 10 oClock P M — when I was disposd to go
to Sleep 2 neet mats was produced & I lay on them but the flees were
So troublesom that I Slept but little Those people has 2 plays which they
are fond of one is with a Been which they pass from one hand into the
other, and the oponent guess on this game the resquist nubr of the white
Beeds which is the principal property — they other game is with round
Pieces of wood much the Shape of the ____ Backgammon which they role thro
between 2 pins.
[Clark, December 9, 1805]
Monday 9th December 1805 rained all the last night we are all wet, I
directed 2 hunters Drewyer & Shannon to go in pursute of the Elk, with
the other 3 men I determined to proceed on to the Ocian, & Set out on
a Westerley direction Crossed 3 Slashes and arived at a Creek which I
could not Cross as it was deep and no wood to make a raft, I proceeded
down this Creek a Short distance and found that I was in a fork of the
Creek, I then returned to raft on which we had Crossed the day. crossed
and kept down about one mile and met 3 Indians loaded with fresh Salmon
which they had Giged in the Creek I crossed yesterday in the hills, those
indians made Signs that they had a town on the Seacoast at no great
distance, and envited me to go to their town which envitation I axcepted
and accompand. them, they had a Canoe hid in the Creek which I had just
before rafted which I had not observed, we crossed in this little Canoe
just large enough to carry 3 men an their loads after Crossing 2 of the
Indians took the Canoe on theire Sholders and Carried it across to the
other Creek about 1/4 of a mile, we Crossed the 2d Creek and proceeded on
to the mouth of the Creek which makes a great bend above the mouth of this
Creek or to the S. is 3 houses and about 12 families of the Clat Sop
Nation, we cross to those houses, which were built on the S. exposur of
the hill, Sunk into the ground about 4 feet the walls roof & gable
ends are of Split pine boards, the dotes Small with a ladder to decend to
the iner part of the house, the fires are 2 in the middle of the house
their beads ar all around raised about 21/2 feet from the bottom flore all
covered with mats and under those beads was Stored their bags baskets and
useless mats, those people treated me with extrodeanary friendship, one
man attached himself to me as Soon as I entered the hut, Spred down new
mats for me to Set on, gave me fish berries rutes &c. on Small neet
platteers of rushes to eate which was repeated, all the Men of the other
houses Came and Smoked with me Those people appeared much neeter in their
diat than Indians are Comonly, and frequently wash theer faces and hands — in
the eveng an old woman presented a bowl made of a light Coloured horn a
kind of Surup made of Dried berries which is common to this Countrey which
the natives Call Shele wele this Surup I though was pleasent, they Gave me
Cockle Shells to eate a kind of Seuip made of bread of the Shele well
berries mixed with roots in which they presented in neet trenchers made of
wood. a flock of Brant lit in the Creek which was 70 yds wide I took up my
Small rifle and Shot one which astonished those people verry much, they
plunged into the Creek and brought the brant on Shorein the evening it
began to rain and Continud accompanied with a Violent wind from the S. W.
untill 10 oClock P.M. those people have a Singular game which they are
verry fond of and is performed with Something about the Size of a large
been which they pass from, one hand into the other with great dexterity
dureing which time they Sing, and ocasionally, hold out their hands for
those who Chuse to risque their property to guess which hand the been is
in-; the individual who has the been is a banker & opposed to all in
the room. on this game they risque their beeds & other parts of their
most valuable effects — this amusement has occupied about 3 hours of
this evening, Several of the lodge in which I am in have lost all the
beeds which they had about them — they have one other game which a man
attempted to Show me, I do not properly understand it, they make use of
maney peces about the Shape and size of Backgammon Pices which they role
through between two pins Stuck up at certain distancies &. — when
I was Disposed to go to Sleep the man who had been most attentive named
Cus-ka-lah producd 2 new mats and Spred them near the fire, and derected
his wife to go to his bead which was the Signal for all to retire which
they did emediately. I had not been long on my mats before I was attacked
most violently by the flees and they kept up a close Siege dureing the
night
[Clark, December 10, 1805]
December 10th 1805 Tusday A Cloudey rainy morning those people was Some
what astonished, at three Shot I made with my little riffle to day, a
gangu of Brant Set in the little river, I Killd. 2 of them as they Set,
and on my return Saw a Duck which I took the head off of, the men plunged
into the water like Spaniards Dogs after those fowls, after eateing a
brackfast which was Similar to my Suppar, I attempted to purchase Some
fiew roots which I offered red beeds for, they would give Scercely any
thing for Beeds of that Colour, I then offered Small fish hooks which they
were fond of and gave me Some roots for them, I then Set out on my return
by the Same road I had went out accompd. by my young Chief by name
Cus-ca-lar who Crossed me over the 3 Creek, and returned I proceeded on to
my Camp thro a heavy Cold rain, Saw no game — at the Sea Cost near
those Indins I found various kinds of Shells, a kind of Bay opsd. those
people with a high pt. about 4 miles below, out from which at Some dists I
Saw large rocks, as the day was Cloudy I could not See distinctly — found
Capt Lewis with all hands felling trees, to build with, rained nearly all
day, in my absence they men had bt. in the 6 Elk which was Killed Some
days past 4 men complaining of being unwell from various causes
[Clark, December 10, 1805]
Tuesday 10th December 1805 a Cloudy rainey morning verry early I rose and
walked on the Shore of the Sea coast and picked up Several Curious Shells.
I Saw Indians walking up and down the beech which I did not at first
understand the Cause of, one man came to where I was and told me that he
was in Serch of fish which is frequently thrown up on Shore and left by
the tide, and told me the "Sturgion was verry good" and that the water
when it retired left fish which they eate this was Conclusive evedance to
me that this Small band depended in Some Measure for their winters
Subsistance on the fish which is thrown on Shore and left by the tide-
after amuseing my Self for about an hour on the edge of the rageing Seas I
returned to the houses, one of the Indians pointed to a flock of Brant
Sitting in the creek at Short distance below and requested me to Shute
one, I walked down with my Small rifle and killed two at about 40 yds
distance, on my return to the houses two Small ducks Set at about 30 Steps
from me the Indians pointed at the ducks they were near together, I Shot
at the ducks and accidently Shot the head of one off, this Duck and brant
was Carried to the house and every man Came around examined the Duck
looked at the gun the Size of the ball which was 100 to the pound and Said
in their own language Clouch Musket, wake, com ma-tax Musket which is, a
good Musket do not under Stand this kind of Musket &c. I entered the
Same house I Slept in, they imediately Set before me their best roots,
fish and Surup-, I attempted to purchase a Small Sea otter Skin for read
beeds which I had in my pockets, they would not trade for those beeds not
priseing any other Colour than Blue or White, I purchased a little of the
berry bread and a fiew of their roots for which I gave Small fish hooks,
which they appeared fond of — I then Set out on my return by the Same
rout I had Come out accompanied by Cus-ka lah and his brother as far as
the 3d Creek, for the purpose of Setting me across, from which place they
returned, and I proceeded on through a heavy rain to the Camp at our
intended fort, Saw a bears track & the tracks of 2 Elk in the thick
woods — found Capt Lewis with all the men out Cutting down trees for
our huts &c. in my absence the Men brought in the Six Elk which was
killed Several days ago-. 4 men Complaining of violent Coalds. three
Indians in a Canoe Came up from the Clat Sop Village yesterday and
returned to day. The Sea Coast is about 7 miles distant Nearly West about
5 miles of the distance through a thick wood with reveens hills and Swamps
the land, rich black moald 2 miles in a open wavering Sandy prarie, ridge
runing parrelal to the river, Covered with Green Grass.
[Clark, December 11, 1805]
December 11th Wednesday rained all last night moderately, we are all
employed putting up the huts, rained at intervales all day moderately
employed in putting up Cabins for our winter quarters, one man with
Turners, one with a Strained Knee, one Sick with Disentary & Serjt.
Pryor unwell from haveing his Sholder out of place
[Clark, December 11, 1805]
Wednesday 11th December 1805 rained all the last night moderately we are
all employed putting up huts or Cabins for our winters quarters. Sergeant
Pryor unwell from a dislocation of his Sholder, Gibson with the disentary,
Jo. Fields with biles on his legs, & Werner with a Strained Knee. The
rained Continued moderately all day.
[Clark, December 12, 1805]
December 12th Thursday 1805 Some moderate Showers last night and this
morning all hands who are well employed in building Cabins, despatched 2
men to get board timber, The flees so bad last night that, I made but a
broken nights rest we can't get them out of our robes & Skins, which
we are obliged to make use of for bedding Some rain to day at Intervales — all
at work, in the evening 2 Canoe of Indians Came from the 2 villages of
Clotsop below, & brought Wapitoo roots a black root they call
Si-ni-tor and a Small Sea orter Skin all of which we purchased for a fiew
fishing hooks & Some Snake Indian Tobacco. Those Indians appeare well
disposed, I made a Chief of one & gave him a Small medel, his name is
Conyear we treated those people well — they are tite Deelers, value
Blu & white beeds verry highly, and Sell their roots also highly as
they purchase them from the Indians abov for a high price
[Clark, December 12, 1805]
Thursday 12th December 1805 All hands that are well employ'd in Cutting
logs and raising our winter Cabins, detached two men to Split boards — Some
rain at intervales all last night and to day — The flees were So
troublesom last night that I made but a broken nights rest, we find great
dificuelty in getting those trouble insects out of our robes and blankets — in
the evening two Canoes of Chit Sops Visit us they brought with them Wap pa
to, a black Sweet root they Call Sha-na toe qua, and a Small Sea Otter
Skin, all of which we purchased for a fiew fishing hooks and a Small Sack
of Indian tobacco which was given by the Snake Inds.
Those Indians appear well disposed we gave a Medal to the principal Chief
named Con-ny-au or Com mo-wol and treated those with him with as much
attention as we could — I can readily discover that they are Close
deelers, & Stickle for a verry little, never close a bargin except
they think they have the advantage Value Blue beeds highly, white they
also prise but no other Colour do they Value in the least — the Wap pa
to they Sell high, this root the purchase at a high price from the nativs
above.
[Clark, December 13, 1805]
December 13th Friday 1805 The Indians left us to day after brackfast,
haveing Sold us 2 of the robes of a Small animal for which I intend
makeing a Capot, and Sold Capt Lewis 2 Loucirvia Skins for the Same
purpose. Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting havg. killed 18 Elk
and butchered all except 2 which they Could not get as night provented
ther finding them & they Spoild.
3 Indians in a Canoe Came and offered us for Sale Sinutor roots, fish
& 2 Sea otter Skins for Sale none of which we Could purchase. Some
rain last night and this day at Several times, light Showers. we Continue
building our houses of the Streightest & _____ logs, Sent out 2 men to
Split timber to Covet the Cabins, and I am glad to find the timber Splits
butifully, and of any width
[Clark, December 13, 1805]
Friday 13th December 1805 The Clatsops leave us to day after a brackfast
on Elk which they appeared to be very fond of before they left us they
Sold me two robes of the Skins of a Small animal about the Size of a Cat,
and to Captain Lewis 2 Cat or Loucirva Skins for the purpose of makeing a
Coat. Drewyer & Shannon returned from hunting, haveing killed 18 Elk
& left them boochered in the woods near the right fork of the river
about 6 miles above this place — in the evining 3 Indians came in a
Canoe, and offered to us for Sale roots & 2 Sea otter Skins, neither
of which we Could purchase this evening. Some Showers of rain last night,
and to day Several verry hard Showers — we Continue to put up the
Streight butifull balsom pine on our houses-and we are much pleased to
find that the timber Splits most butifully and to the width of 2 feet or
more.
[Clark, December 14, 1805]
December 14th Saturday 1805 a cloudy day & rained moderately all day
we finish the log works of our building, the Indians leave us to day after
Selling a Small Sea otter Skin and a roabe, Send 4 men to Stay at the Elk
which is out in the woods &c.
[Clark, December 14, 1805]
Saturday 14th December 1805 The Day Cloudy and rained moderately all day
we finish the log work of our building, the Indians leave us to day after
Selling a Small Sea otter Skin and a roab, dispatch 4 men to the Elk out
in the woods with derections to delay untill the party goes up tomorrow.
all employd in finishing a house to put meat into. all our last Supply of
Elk has Spoiled in the repeeted rains which has been fallen ever Since our
arrival at this place, and for a long time before, Scerce one man in Camp
Can host of being one day dry Since we landed at this point, the Sick
getting better, my man York Sick with Cholick & gripeing
[Clark, December 15, 1805]
December 15th Sunday 1805 I Set out with 16 men in 3 Canoes for the Elk
proced up the 1st right hand fork 4 miles & pack the meat from the
woods to the Cano from 4 mile to 3 miles distance all hands pack not one
man exempted from this labour I also pack my Self Some of this meat, and
Cook for those out in packing Some rain in the evening Cloudy all day, the
last load of meat all the party got out of the road or Direction and did
not get to the Canoe untill after night, 5 did not join to night
[Clark, December 15, 1805]
Sunday the 15th December 1805. I Set out early with 16 men and 3 Canoes
for the Elk, proceed up the River three miles and thence up a large Creek
from the right about 3 miles the hite of the tide water drew up the Canoes
and all hands went out in three different parties and brought in to the
Canoe each Man a quarter of Elk, I Sent them out for a Second load and had
Some of the first Cooked against their return, after eateing a harty diner
dispatched the party for a third and last load, about half the men missed
their way and did not get to the Canoes untill after Dark, and Serjt.
Ordway Colter, Colins Whitehouse & McNeal Staid out all night without
fire and in the rain — Cloudy all day Some rain in the evening.
[Clark, December 16, 1805]
December 16th Monday 1805 rained all the last night we Covered our Selves
as well as we Could with Elk Skins, & Set up the greater part of the
night, all wet I lay in the water verry Cold, the 5 men who Stayed out all
night joined me this morning Cold & wet, Ordway Colter Collens, Jo
Whitehouse J McNeal, I had the two Canoes loaded with the 11 Elk which was
brought to the Canoes, despatched 12 men to meet me below with 2 Elk, The
rain Contines, with Tremendious gusts of wind, which is Tremds. I
proceeded on and took in the 2 Elk which was brought to the Creek, &
Send back 7 men to Carrey to the Canoe & take down to Camp 3 Elk which
was left in the woods, and I proceeded on to Camp thro the Same Chanel I
had assd. The winds violent Trees falling in every derection, whorl winds,
with gusts of rain Hail & Thunder, this kind of weather lasted all
day, Certainly one of the worst days that ever was! I found 3 Indeans with
Capt Lewis in camp they had brought fish to Sell, we had a house Covered
with Punchen & our meat hung up. Several men Complaining of hurting
themselves Carry meet, &c.
[Clark, December 16, 1805]
Monday 16th December 1805 I as also the party with me experiencd a most
dreadfull night rain and wet without any Couvering, indeed we Set up the
greater part of the Night, when we lay down the water Soon Came under us
and obliged us to rise. the five men who Stayed out all night joind me
this morning wet and Cold, haveing Stayed out without fire or Shelter and
the rain poreing down upon them all night their appearance was truly
distressingthey had left all their loads near the place they Spent the
night — I dispatched 12 men for 2 Elk which was reather below on the
opposit Side of the Creak, with directions to meet me at the 2d bend in
the Creek below, had all the meat which had been brought in yesterday put
into 2 Canoes and proceeded down to the 2d bend where I met the 12 men
with the 2 Elk, dispatchd 6 men with one of those who Staid out last night
for the meet left in the woods & the remainder an elk at Some distance
and proceeded on my Self with 3 Canoes to the fort. wind violent from the
S E
trees falling, rain and hail, we with Some risque proceeded on thro the
high waves in the river, a tempestious disagreeable day.
I found 3 indians at our Camp, they brought fish to Sell which were pore
& not fit for use, had the meet house coverd and the meat all hung up,
Several men complain of haveing hurt themselves heavy loads of meat.
[Clark, December 17, 1805]
December 17th Tuesday 1805 rained Some last night and this morning, all
hands at work about the huts Chinking them, The 7 men left to bring in the
Elk left in the woods Come with 2 the 3rd they Could not find, as it was
that left by the party that got lost night before last
The after part of the Day fair & Cool, fore part of the Day rain
hailed & blew hard, The mountain which lies S. E of this is covered
with Snow to day we fleece all the meat and hang it up over a Small Smoke
The trees are hard to Split for Punchens to Cover our houses &c.
[Clark, December 17, 1805]
Tuesday 17th of December 1805 Some rain last night and a continuation of
it this morning. all the men at work about the houses, Some Chinking,
Dobbing Cutting out dores &c. &c. The 7 men left to bring in the
Elk arrived and informed that they Could not find the meat that the party
who Stayed out all night had left — the forepart of this day rained
hailed and blew hard, the after part is fair and Cool — a Mountain
which is S. ____° E. about 10 miles distant has got Snow on its top which
is ruged and uneavin
Cause a Small fire & Smoke to be made under the meat which is hung up
in Small peaces. The trees which our men have fallen latterly Split verry
badly into boards. The most of our Stores are wet. our Leather Lodge has
become So rotten that the Smallest thing tares it into holes and it is now
Scrcely Sufficent to keep off the rain off a Spot Sufficiently large for
our bead.
[Clark, December 18, 1805]
December 18th Wednesday 1805 rained and Snowed alturnitely all the last
night and the gusts of Snow and hail continue untill 12 oClock, Cold and a
dreadfull day wind hard and unsettled, we continue at work at our huts,
the men being but thinly dressed, and no Shoes causes us to doe but little — at
12 the Snow & hail Seased & the after part of the day was Cloudy
with Some rain.
[Clark, December 18, 1805]
Wednesday 18th December 1805 rained and Snowed alternetly all the last
night, and Spurts of Snow and Hail Continued untill 12 oClock, which has
chilled the air which is Cool and disagreeable, the wind hard &
unsettled — The men being thinly Dressed and mockersons without Socks
is the reason that but little can be done at the Houses to day — at 12
the Hail & Snow Seased, and rain Suckceeded for the latter part of the
day
[Lewis, December 18, 1805]
Fort Clatsop, December 18th 1805. This day one of the men shot a bird of
the Corvus genus, which was feeding on some fragments of meat near the
camp. this bird is about the size of the kingbird or bee martin, and not
unlike that bird in form. the beak is 3/4 of an inch long, wide at the
base, of a convex, and cultrated figure, beset with some small black hairs
near it's base. the chaps are of nearly equal lengths tho the upper
exceeds the under one a little, and has a small nich in the upper chap
near the extremity perceptable only by close examineation. the colour of
the beak is black. the eye is large and prominent, the puple black, and
iris of a dark yellowish brown. the legs and feet are black and
imbricated. has four toes on each foot armed with long sharp tallons; the
hinder toe is nearly as long as the middle toe in front and longer than
the two remaining toes. the tale is composed of twelve fathers the longest
of which are five inches, being six in number placed in the center. the
remaining six are placed 3 on either side and graduly deminish to four
inches which is the shortest and outer feathers. the tail is half the
length of the bird, the whole length from the extremity of the beak to the
extremity of the tale being 10 Inches. the head from it's joining the nect
forward as far as the eyes nearly to the base of the beak and on each side
as low as the center of the eye is black. arround the base of the beak the
throat jaws, neck, brest and belley are of a pale bluish white. the wings
back and tale are of a bluish black with a small shade of brown. this bird
is common to this piny country are also found in the rockey mountains on
the waters of the columbia river or woody side of those mountains, appear
to frequent the highest sumits of those mountains as far as they are
covered with timber. their note is que, quit-it, que-hoo; and tah, tah,
& — there is another bird of reather larger size which I saw on
the woddy parts of the rockey mountains and on the waters of the Missouri,
this bird I could never kill tho I made several attempts, the predominate
colour is a dark blue the tale is long and they are not crested; I believe
them to be of the corvus genus also. their note is char, char, char-ar,
char; the large blue crested corvus of the Columbia river is also
[Lewis, December 19, 1805]
Discription of the blue Crested corvus bird common to the woody and
western side of the Rockey mountains, and all the woody country from
thence to the Pacific Ocean It's beak is black convex, cultrated, wide at
its base where it is beset with hairs, and is 11 inches from the opening
of the chaps to their extremity, and from the joining of the head to the
extremity of the upper chap 1 1/8 Inches, the upper exceeds the under chap
a little; the nostrils are small round unconnected and placed near the
base of the beak where they lye concealed by the hairs or hairy feathers
which cover the base of the upper chap. the eye reather large and full but
not prominent and of a deep bluefish black, there being no difference in
the colour of the puple and the iris. the crest is very full the feathers
from 1 to 11/2 Inches long and occupye the whole crown of the head. the
head neck, the whole of the body including the coverts of the wings, the
upper disk of the tail and wings are of a fine gossey bright indigo blue
Colour the under disk of the tail and wings are of a dark brown nearly
black. the leg and first joint of the tye are 41/4 In. long, the legs and
feet are black and the front covered with 6 scales the hinder part smothe,
the toes are also imbrecated, four in number long and armed with long
sharp black tallons. the upper disk of the first four or five feathers of
the wing next to the boddy, are marked with small transverse stripes of
black as are also the upper side of the two center feathers of the tail;
the tail is five inches long & is composed of twelve feathers of equal
length. the tail 1 & 1/2 as long as the boddy. the whole length from
the point of the beak to extremity of the tail 1 Foot 1 Inch; from the tip
of one to the tip of the other wing 1 Foot 5 1/2 Inches. the Conta. the
size & the whole Contour of this bird resembles very much the blue jay
or jaybird as they are called in the U States. like them also they seldom
rest in one place long but are in constant motion hoping from spra to
spray. what has been said is more immediately applicable to the male, the
colours of the female are somewhat different in her the head crest neck
half the back downwards and the converts of the wings are of a dark brown,
but sometimes there is a little touch of the Indigo on the short feathers
on the head at the base of the upper chap. this bird feeds on flesh when
they can procure it, also on bugs flies and buries. I do not know whether
they distroy little birds but their tallons indicate their capacity to do
so if nature, has directed it. their note is loud and frequently repeated
cha' — a cha' — a' &c. — also twat twat twat, very quick
[Clark, December 19, 1805]
December 19th Thursday 1805 Some rain with intervales of fair weather last
night, The morning Clear and wind from S W. I despatched Sjt. Pryer with 8
men in 2 Canoes across the bay for the boads of an Indian house which is
abandoned, the other part of the men continue to doe a little at the huts,
the after part of the day Cloudy with hail & rain, Sgt. Pryer and
party returned with 2 Canoe loads of Boards, two Indians Came & Stayed
but a Short time
[Clark, December 19, 1805]
Thursday 19th December 1805 Some rain with intervales of fair weather last
night, this morning Clear & the wind from the S, W. we dispatched Sjt.
Pryor with 8 men in 2 Canoes across Meriwethers Bay for the boards of an
old Indian house which is vacant, the residue of the men at work at their
huts — the after part of the Day Cloudy with Hail and rain, Serjt.
Pryor & party returned in the evening with a load of old boards which
was found to be verry indifferent
2 Indians Cam and Stayed a Short time to day
[Clark, December 20, 1805]
December 20th Friday 1805 Some rain and hail last night and this morning
it rained hard untill 10 oClock, men all employd Carrying Punchens and
Covering Cabins 4 of which we had Covered, & Set Some to Dobing — the
after part of the day Cloudy and Some Showers of rain. 3 Indians came with
Lickorish Sackacomie berries & mats to Sell, for which they asked Such
high prices that we did not purchase any of them, — Those people ask
double & tribble the value of everry thing they have to Sell, and
never take less than the full value of any thing, they prise only Blue
& white heeds, files fish hooks and Tobacco — Tobacco and Blue
beeds principally
[Clark, December 20, 1805]
Friday 20th of December 1805 Some rain and hail last night and the rained
Continued untill 10 oClock a,m, Men all employd in Carrying punchens or
boards & Covering the houses, 4 of which were Covered to day, the
after part of the day Cloudy with Several Showers of rain — 3 Indians
arrive in a Canoe. they brought with them mats, roots & Sackacome
berries to Sell for which they asked Such high prices that we did not
purchase any of them. Those people ask generally double and tribble the
value of what they have to Sell, and never take less than the real value
of the article in Such things as is calculated to do them Service. Such as
Blue & white heeds, with which they trade with the nativs above; files
which they make use of to Sharpen their tools, fish hooks of different
Sises and tobacco- Tobacco and blue beeds they do prefur to every thing.
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
December 21st Saturday 1805 rain as usial last night and all day to day
moderately. we Continued at the Cabins dobbing & Shinking of them,
fall Several trees which would not Split into punchins — the Indians
were detected in Stealing a Spoon & a Bone, and left us, our Sackey
Commy out Send 2 men to gather Some at the ocian, Saw Elk Sign
[Clark, December 21, 1805]
Saturday 21st December 1805 rained as useal all the last night, and contd.
moderately all day to day without any intermition, men employd at the
houses. one of the indians was detected Stealing a horn Spoon, and leave
the Camp. dispatched two men to the open lands near the Ocian for
Sackacome, which we make use of to mix with our tobacco to Smoke which has
an agreeable flavour.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
December 22nd Sunday 1805 rained all the last night & to day without
much intermition we finish dobbig 4 huts which is all we have Covered, the
Punchin floor & Bunks finished Drewyer go out to trap — Sjt. J.
Ordway, Gibson & my Servent Sick Several with Biles on them &
bruses of different kinds, much of our meat Spoiled.
[Clark, December 22, 1805]
Sunday 22nd December 1805 rained Continued all the last night and to day
without much intermition, men employd doeing what they can at the houses.
Drewyer Set out up the Creek to Set his traps for beaver, Sergt. ordway,
Gibson & my Servent Sick, Several men Complain of biles and bruses of
differant kinds.
We discover that part of our last Supply of meat is Spoiling from the
womph of the weather not withstanding a constant Smoke kept under it day
and night.
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
December 23rd Monday 1805 rained without intermition all last night, and
this day much Thunder in the morning and evening with rain and Some hail
to day, we are all employd about our huts have ours Covered and Dobed
& we move into it, 2 Canoes of Indians Came up to day. I purchased 3
mats verry neetly made, 2 bags made with Flags verry neetly made, those
the Clotsops Carry ther fish in. also a Panthor Skin and Some Lickorish
roots, for which I gave a worn out file, 6 fish hooks & Some Pounded
fish which to us was Spoiled, but those people were fond of — in the
evining those people left us I also gave a String of wompom to a Chief,
and Sent a Small pice of Simimon to a Sick Indian in the Town who had
attached himself to me
[Clark, December 23, 1805]
Monday 23rd December 1805 Rained without intermition all the last night
and to day with Thunder and Hail the fore and after part of this day Capt
Lewis and my Self move into our hut to day unfinished — two Canoes
with Indians of the Clat Sop nation Came up to day. I purchased 3 mats and
bags all neetly made of flags and rushes, those bags are nearly Square of
different size's open on one Side, I also purchased a panthor Skin 71/2
feet long including the tail, all of which I gave 6 Small fish hooks, a
Small worn out file & Some pounded fish which we Could not use as it
was So long wet that it was Soft and molded, the Indians of this
neighbourhood prize the pound'd fish verry highly, I have not observed
this method of Secureing fish on any other part of the Columbian waters
then that about the Great falls. I gave a 2d Chief a String of wampom, and
Sent a little pounded fish to Cus-ca-lah who was Sick in the village &
could not come to See us.
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
December 24th Tuesday-5 Some hard rain at different times last night, and
moderately this morning without intermition all hands employed in Carrying
Punchens & finishing Covering the huts, and the greater part of the
men move into them a hard rain in the evening.
Cuscalar the young Clot Sop Chief Came with a young brother and 2 young
Squar, they gave or laid before Capt Lewis and my Self a mat and each a
large Parsel of roots, Some time after he demanded 2 files for his Present
we returned the present as we had no files to Speare which displeased them
a little they then offered a woman to each which we also declined axcpting
which also displeased them. Jo Fields finish for Capt Lewis and my Self
each a wide Slab hued to write on, I gave a handkerchief &c
[Clark, December 24, 1805]
Tuesday 24th December 1805 hard rain at Different times last night and all
this day without intermition. men all employd in finishing their huts and
moveing into them.
Cuscalah the Indian who had treated me So politely when I was at the
Clatsops village, come up in a Canoe with his young brother & 2 Squars
he laid before Capt Lewis and my Self each a mat and a parcel of roots
Some time in the evening two files was demanded for the presents of mats
and roots, as we had no files to part with, we each returned the present
which we had received, which displeased Cuscalah a little. he then offered
a woman to each of us which we also declined axcepting of, which
displeased the whole party verry much — the female part appeared to be
highly disgusted at our refuseing to axcept of their favours &c.
our Store of Meat entirely Spoiled, we are obliged to make use of it as we
have nothing else except a little pounded fish, the remains of what we
purchased near the great falls of the Columbia, and which we have ever
found to be a convenient resort, and a portable method of curing fish
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
December 25th Christmas 1805 Wednesday Some rain at different times last
night and Showers of hail with intervales of fair Starr light, This
morning at day we were Saluted by all our party under our winders, a Shout
and a Song — after brackfast we divided our tobacco which amounted to
2 Carrots, one half we gave to the party who used Tobacco those who did
not we gave a Handkerchief as a present, The day proved Showery all day,
the Inds. left us this eveningall our party moved into their huts. we
dried Some of our wet goods. I rcved a present of a Fleeshe Hoserey vest
draws & Socks of Capt Lewis, pr. Mockerson of Whitehouse, a Small
Indian basket of Guterich, & 2 Doz weasels tales of the Squar of
Shabono, & Some black roots of the Indians G. D. Saw a Snake passing
across the parth
Our Diner to day Consisted of pore Elk boiled, Spilt fish & Some
roots, a bad Christmass diner worm Day
[Clark, December 25, 1805]
Christmas Wednesday 25th December 1805 at day light this morning we were
awoke by the discharge of the fire arm of all our party & a Selute,
Shoute and a Song which the whole party joined in under our windows, after
which they retired to their rooms were Chearfull all the morning — after
brackfast we divided our Tobacco which amounted to 12 carrots one half of
which we gave to the men of the party who used tobacco, and to those who
doe not use it we make a present of a handkerchief, The Indians leave us
in the evening all the party Snugly fixed in their huts — I recved a
presnt of Capt L. of a fleece hosrie Shirt Draws and Socks-, a pr.
mockersons of Whitehouse a Small Indian basket of Gutherich, two Dozen
white weazils tails of the Indian woman, & Some black root of the
Indians before their departure — Drewyer informs me that he Saw a
Snake pass across the parth to day. The day proved Showerey wet and
disagreeable.
we would have Spent this day the nativity of Christ in feasting, had we
any thing either to raise our Sperits or even gratify our appetites, our
Diner concisted of pore Elk, So much Spoiled that we eate it thro mear
necessity, Some Spoiled pounded fish and a fiew roots.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
December 26th Thursday 1805 rained and blew hard last night Some hard
Thunder, The rain continued as usial all day and wind blew hard from the
S. E, Joseph Fields finish a Table & 2 Seats for us. we dry our wet
articles and have the blankets fleed, The flees are So troublesom that I
have Slept but little for 2 nights past and we have regularly to kill them
out of our blankets every day for Several past — maney of the men have
ther Powder wet by the horns being repeetdly wet, hut Smoke verry bad.
[Clark, December 26, 1805]
Thursday 26th December 1805 rained and blew with great Violence S E all
the last night, Some hard Claps of Thunder, the rain as usial Continued
all day — we dry our wet articles before the fire, and have our
blankets fleed, great numbers were Caught out of the blankets, those
trouble insects are So abundant that we have to have them killd. out of
our blankets every day or get no Sleep at night — The powder in maney
of the mens horns are wet from their being so long exposed to the rain
&c.
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
December 27th Friday 1805. rained last night as usial and the greater part
of this day, the men Complete Chimneys & Bunks to day, in the evening
a Chief and 4 men Come of the Clotsop nation, Chief Co-ma wool we Sent out
R. Fields & Collins to hunt and order Drewyer, Shannon & Labiach
to Set out early to morrow to hunt, — Jo Fields, Bratten, & Gibson
to make Salt at Point Addams, Willard & Wiser, to assist them in
carrying the Kitties &c to the Ocian, and all the others to finish the
Pickets and gates. worm weather I Saw a Musquetor which I Showed Capt.
Lewis — Those Indians gave is, a black root they Call Shan-na-tah que
a kind of Licquerish which they rost in embers and Call Cul ho-mo, a black
berry the Size of a Cherry & Dried which they call Shel-well, — all
of which they prise highly and make use of as food to live on, for which
Capt Lewis gave the chief a Cap of Sheep Skin and I his Son, ear bobs,
Piece of riben, a pice of brass, and 2 Small fishing hooks, of which they
were much pleased Those roots & berres, are greatfull to our Stomcks
as we have nothing to eate but Pore Elk meet, nearly Spoiled; & this
accident of Spoiled meet, is owing to wormth & the repeeted rains,
which cause the meet to tante before we Can get it from the woods
Musquetors troublesorn
[Clark, December 27, 1805]
Friday 27th December 1805 rained last night as usial and the greater part
of this day. In the evening Co-mo wool the Chief and 4 men of the Clat Sop
nation they presented us a root which resembles the licquirish in Size and
taste, which they roste like a potato which they Call Cul ho-mo, also a
black root which is cured in a kill like the pash-a-co above; this root
has a Sweet taste and the natives are verry fond of it — they Call
this root Shaw-na-tah-que. also a dried berry about the size of a Chery
which they Call Shele well all those roots those Indians value highly and
give them verry Spearingly. in return for the above roots Capt Lewis gave
the Chief a Small piece of Sheap Skin to Ware on his head, I gave his Son
a par of ear bobs and a pece of ribon, and a Small piece of brass for
which they were much pleased.
Those roots and berries are timely and extreamly greatfull to our
Stomachs, as we have nothing to eate but Spoiled Elk meat, I Showed Capt
L. 2 Musquetors to day, or an insect So much the Size Shape and appearance
of a Musquetor that we Could observe no kind of differance.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
December 28th Saturday 1805 rained as usial, a great part of the last
night, and this morning rained and the wind blew hard from the S. E. Sent
out the hunters and Salt makers, & employd the baleanc of the men
Carrying the Pickets &c. &c. hunters Sent out yesterday returned,
haveing killed one deer near the Sea cost, my boy york verry unwell from
violent Colds & Strains Carrying in meet and lifting logs on the huts
to build them, This day is worm, and rained all day moderately without
intermition.
[Clark, December 28, 1805]
Saturday the 28th December 1805 rained as usial the greater part of the
last night and a continuation this morning accompanied with wind from the
S East Derected Drewyer, Shannon, Labeash, Reuben Field, and Collins to
hunt; Jos. Fields, Bratten, Gibson to proceed to the Ocean at Some
Convenient place form a Camp and Commence makeing Salt with 5 of the
largest Kittles, and Willard and Wiser to assist them in Carrying the
Kittles to the Sea Coastall the other men to be employed about putting up
pickets & makeing the gates of the fort. my man Y. verry unwell from a
violent Coald and Strain by Carrying meet from the woods and lifting the
heavy logs on the works &c. rained all Day without intermition. the
Weather verry worm.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
December 29th Sunday 1805 rained last night as usial, this morning Cloudy
without rain a hard wind from the S. E. The Inds. left us this morning and
returned to their village, after begging for maney things which they did
not secure as we Could not Spare them I gave the Chief Canio a Razor, Sent
out 3 men across the river to hunt, all others employd putting up pickets
Pete Crusat Sick with a violent Cold My Servent better — we are told
by the Indians that a whale has foundered on the Coast to the N. W and
their nations is collecting fat of him, the wind is too high for us to See
it, Capt Lewis is been in readiness 2 days to go and Collect Some of the
whale oyle the wind has proved too high as yet for him to Set out in Safty
In the evening a young Chief 4 men and 2 womin of the War-ci-a-cum tribe
came in a large canoe with Wapto roots, Dressed Elk Skins &c. to Sell,
the Chief made me a present of about a half a bushel of those roots — we
gave him a medal of a Small Size and a piece of red ribin to tie around
the top of his Hat which was made with a double Cone, the diameter of the
upper about 3 Inches the lower a about 1 foot
We purchased about 11/2 bushels of those roots for which we gave Some few
red beeds, Small pices of brass wire and old Check — those roots
proved greatfull to us as we are now liveing on Spoiled Elk which is
extreamly disagreeable to the Smel. as well as the taste, I can plainly
discover that a considerable exchange of property is Continually Carried
on between the Tribes and villages of those people they all dress litely
ware nothing below the waste, a pice of fur abt. around the body, and a
Short robe which Composes the total of their dress, except a few Split
hats, and heeds around ther necks wrists and anckles, and a few in their
ears. They are small and not handsom generally Speaking women
perticularly.
The Chin nook womin are lude and Carry on Sport publickly the Clotsop and
others appear deffidend, and reserved The flees are So noumerous in this
Countrey and difficult to get Cleare of that the Indians have difft.
houses & villages to which they remove frequently to get rid of them,
and not withstanding all their precautions, they never Step into our hut
without leaveing Sworms of those troublesom insects. Indeed I Scercely get
to Sleep half the night Clear of the torments of those flees, with the
precaution of haveing my blankets Serched and the flees killed every day — The
1 s of those insects we Saw on the Collumbia River was at the 1 s Great
falls — I have the Satisfaction to Say that we had but little rain in
the Course of this day, not as much as would wet a person. but hard wind
and Cloudy all day.
[Clark, December 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th December 1805 rained all the last night a usial, this morning
Cloudy without rain, a hard wind from the S. E I gave the Cheif a razor,
and himself and party left us after begging us for maney articles none of
which they recvied as we Could not Spare the articles they were most in
want of. Peter Crusat
Sick with a violent Cold, my man Y. better. all hands employed about the
Pickets & gates of the fort. we were informed day before yesterday
that a whale had foundered on the coast to the S. W. near the Kil a mox N.
and that the greater part of the Clat Sops were gorn for the oile &
blubber, the wind proves too high for us to proceed by water to See this
monster, Capt Lewis has been in readiness Since we first heard of the
whale to go and see it and collect Some of its Oil, the wind has proved
too high as yet for him to proceed — this evining a young Chief 4 Men
and 2 womin of the War ci a cum Nation arrived, and offered for Sale
Dressed Elk Skins and Wap pa to, the Chief made us a preasent of about 1/2
a bushel of those roots. and we purchased about 11/2 bushels of those
roots for which we gave Some fiew red beeds Small peaces of brass wire
& old Check those roots proved a greatfull addition to our Spoiled
Elk, which has become verry disagreeable both to the taste & Smell we
gave this Chief a Medal of a Small Size and a piece of red riben to tie
around the top of his hat which was of a Singular Construction Those
people will not Sell all their Wap pa to to us they inform us that they
are on their way to trade with the Chit Sops. The nations above Carry on a
verry Considerable interchange of property with those in this
neighbourhood. they pass altogether by water, they have no roads or pathes
through the Countrey which we have observed, except across portages from
one Creek to another, all go litely dressed ware nothing below the waste
in the Coaldest of weather, a piece of fur around their bodies and a Short
roabe Composes the Sum total of their dress, except a few hats, and heeds
about their necks arms and legs Small badly made and homely generally. The
flees are So noumerous and hard to get rid of; that the Indians have
different houses which they resort to occasionally, not withstanding all
their precautions they never Step into our house without leaveing Sworms
of those tormenting insects; and they torment us in Such a manner as to
deprive us of half the nights Sleep frequently — the first of those
insects which we saw on the Columbian waters was at the Canoe portage at
the great falls. Hard winds & Cloudy all day but verry little rain to
day.
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
December 30th Monday 1805 Hard wind and Some rain last night, this morning
fair and the Sun Shown for a Short time 4 Indians Came from the upper
Villages they offered us roots which we did not Chuse to axcept of, as
their expectations for those presents of a fiew roots is 3 or 4 times
their real worth, those Indians with those of yesterday Continued all day.
Drewyer & party of hunters returned and informed they had killed 4
Elk, a party of 6 men was imediately Sent for the meet, they returned at
Dusk, with the 4 Elk, of which we had a Sumptious Supper of Elk Tongues
& marrow bones which was truly gratifying.
The fort was Completed this evening and at Sun Set we let The Indians know
that, our Custom will be to Shut the gates at Sun Set, at which time, they
must all go out of the fort those people who are verry foward and
disegreeable, left the huts with reluctiance — This day proved the
best we have had Since at this place, only 3 Showers of rain to day,
Cloudy nearly all day, in the evening the wind luled and the fore part of
the night fair and clear. I Saw flies & different kinds of insects in
motion to day Snakes are yet to be seen, and Snales without Cover is
Common and large, fowls of every kind Common to this quarter abound in the
Creek & Bay near us
[Clark, December 30, 1805]
Monday 30th December 1805 Hard wind and Some rain last night. this morning
the Sun Shown for a Short time — four Indians came down from the War
cia cum Village, they offered us roots which we did not think proper to
accept of as in return they expect 3 or 4 times as much as the roots as we
Could purchase the Roots for, and are never Satisfied with what they
receive, those 4 Indians & these that Came yesterday Stayed all day.
Drewyer returned and informed that he had killed 4 Elk at no great
distance off, a party of 6 men was imediately dispatched for the meat, and
returned at Dusk with the 4 Elk — we had a Sumptious Supper of Elks
tongues & marrow bones which was truly gratifying — our
fortification is Completed this evening-and at Sun Set we let the nativs
know that our Custom will be in future, to Shut the gates at Sun Set at
which time all Indians must go out of the fort and not return into it
untill next morning after Sunrise at which time the gates will be opened,
those of the War ci a cum Nation who are very foward left the houses with
reluctianc this day proved to be the fairest and best which we have had
since our arrival at this place, only three Showers dureing this whole
day, wind the fore part of the day.
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
December 31st Tuesday 1805 A Cloudy night & Some rain, this day proved
Cloudy and Some Showers of rain to day all the Indians Continued at their
Camp near us, 2 others Canoes Came one from the War-ci-a-cum Village, with
three Indians, and the other from higher up the river of the Skil-lute
nation with three men and a Squar; Those people brought with them Some
Wapto roots, mats made of flags, & rushes, dried fish and Some fiew
Shene-tock-we (or black) roots & Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they
asked enormous prices for, particularly the Dressed Elk Skins; I purchased
of those people Some Wapto roots, two mats and a Small pouch of Tobacco of
their own manufactory — for which I gave large fish hooks, which they
were verry fond, those Indians are much more reserved and better behaved
to day than yesterday — the Sight of our Sentinal who walks on his
post, has made this reform in those people who but yesterday was verry
impertenant and disagreeable to all — This evening they all Cleared
out before the time to Shut the gates, without being derected to doe So — I
derected Sinks to be dug and a Sentinal Box which was accomplished one of
those Indeans brought a Musquet to be repared, which only wanted a Screw
flattened, for which he gave me a Peck of Wapto roots, I gave him a flint
and a pice of Sheep Skin of which he was pleased
[Clark, December 31, 1805]
Tuesday 31st December 1805 last night was Cloudy and Some rain, this day
prove Cloudy and Showerry all day, all the Indians Continue at their Camp
near us, two other Canoes arrived, one from the War ci a cum Village with
3 indians and the other of 3 men & a Squar from higher up the river
and are of the Skil-lute nation, those people brought with them Some
Wappato roots, mats made of flags and rushes dried fish, and a fiew
Shaw-na tah-que and Dressed Elk Skins, all of which they asked enormous
prices for, perticularly the dressed Elk Skins, I purchased of those
people Some Wap pa to two mats and about 3 pipes of their tobacco in a
neet little bag made of rushes — This tobacco was much like what we
had Seen before with the So So ne or Snake indians, for those articles I
gave a large fishing hook and Several other Small articles, the
fishinghooks they were verry fond of. Those Skit lutes are much better
behaved than the War ci a cum indeed we found a great alteration in the
Conduct of them all this morning, the Sight of our Sentinal on his post at
the gate, together with our deturmined proseedure of putting all out at
Sun Set has made this reform in those War ci a corns who is foward
impertinant an thieveish.
The nativs all leave us the fort this evening before Sun Set without being
told or desired to do So — we had Sinks dug & a Sentinal box made-
a Skit lute brought a gun which he requested me to have repared, it only
wanted a Screw flattened So as to Catch, I put a flint into his gun &
he presented me in return a peck of Wappato for payment, I gave him piece
of a Sheap Skin and a Small piece of blue Cloth to Cover his lock for
which he was much pleased and gave me in return Some roots &c.
I Saw flies and different kinds of insects in motion to day — Snakes
are yet to be Seen and Snales without Covers is Common and verry large
water fowls of various kinds are in great numbers in the rivers and Creeks
and the sides of Meriwethers Bay near us but excessively wild- the fore
part of this night fair and Clear
With the party of Clat Sops who visited us last was a man of much lighter
Coloured than the nativs are generaly, he was freckled with long duskey
red hair, about 25 years of age, and must Certainly be half white at
least, this man appeared to understand more of the English language than
the others of his party, but did not Speak a word of English, he possessed
all the habits of the indians
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806. January 1st Tuesday. This morning I was awoke at an
early hour by the discharge of a volley of small arms, which were fired by
our party in front of our quarters to usher in the new year; this was the
only mark of rispect which we had it in our power to pay this celebrated
day. our repast of this day tho better than that of Christmass, consisted
principally in the anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807, when in
the bosom of our friends we hope to participate in the mirth and hilarity
of the day, and when with the zest given by the recollection of the
present, we shall completely, both mentally and corporally, enjoy the
repast which the hand of civilization has prepared for us. at present we
were content with eating our boiled Elk and wappetoe, and solacing our
thirst with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who set out
this morning reterned in the evening having killed two bucks elk; they
presented Capt. Clark and myself each a marrow-bone and tonge, on which we
suped. visited today by a few of the Clotsops who brought some roots and
burries for the purpose of trading with us. we were uneasy with rispect to
two of our men, Willard and Wiser, who were dispatched on the 28th ulto.
with the saltmakers, and were directed to return immediately; their not
having returned induces us to believe it probable that they have missed
their way. — our fourtification being now completed we issued an order
for the more exact and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison.
(see orderly book 1st January 1806).
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
January 1st Wednesday 1806 This morning proved cloudy with moderate rain,
after a pleasent worm night during which there fell but little rain — This
morning at Day we wer Saluted from the party without, wishing us a "hapy
new year" a Shout and discharge of their arms — no Indians to be Seen
this morning- they left the place of their encampment dureing the last
night The work of our houses and fort being now Complete, we Ishued an
order in which we pointed out the rules & regulations for the
government of the Party in respect to the Indians as also for the Safty
and protection of our Selves &c.
two Clotsops Came with a mat and Some fiew roots of Cut wha mo, for which
they asked a file they did not trade but Continued all night
Sent out 2 hunters this morning who returned, haveing killed 2 Elk about 3
miles distant, Some fiew Showers of rain in the Course of this day. Cloudy
all the day.
[Clark, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop 1806 Wednesday the 1st of January This morning I was awoke at
an early hour by the discharge of a Volley of Small arms, which were fired
by our party in front of our quarters to usher in the new year, this was
the only mark of respect which we had it in our power to pay this
Selibrated day. our repast of this day tho better than that of Christmas
Consisted principally in the anticipation of the 1st day of January 1807,
when in the bosom of our friends we hope to participate in the mirth and
hilarity of the day, and when with the relish given by the recollection of
the present, we Shall Completely, both mentally and Corparally, the repast
which the hand of Civilization has produced for us. at present we were
Content with eating our boiled Elk and Wappato, and Solacing our thirst
with our only beverage pure water. two of our hunters who Set out this
morning returned in the evening haveing killed two Buck Elks; they
presented Capt. Lewis and my Self each a marrow bone and tongue on which
we Suped — we are visited to day by a fiew of the Clatsops by water
they brought some roots and berries for the purpose of tradeing with us.
our fortification being now Complete we issue an order for the more exact
and uniform dicipline and government of the garrison. (See orderly book
Jany 2d 1806)
[Lewis, January 1, 1806]
Fort Clatsop, January 1st 1806 The fort being now completed, the
Commanding officers think proper to direct that the guard shall as usual
consist of one Sergeant and three privates, and that the same be regularly
relieved each morning at sun rise. The post of the new guard shall be in
the room of the Sergeants rispectivly commanding the same. the centinel
shall be posted, both day and night, on the parade in front of the
commanding offercers quarters; tho should he at any time think proper to
remove himself to any other part of the fort, in order the better to
inform himself of the desighns or approach of any party of savages, he is
not only at liberty, but is hereby required to do so. It shall be the duty
of the centinel also to announce the arrival of all parties of Indians to
the Sergeant of the Guard, who shall immediately report the same to the
Commanding officers.
The Commanding Officers require and charge the Garrison to treat the
natives in a friendly manner; nor will they be permitted at any time, to
abuse, assault or strike them; unless such abuse assault or stroke be
first given by the natives. nevertheless it shall be right for any
individual, in a peaceable manner, to refuse admittance to, or put out of
his room, any native who may become troublesome to him; and should such
native refuse to go when requested, or attempt to enter their rooms after
being forbidden to do so; it shall be the duty of the Sergeant of the
guard on information of the same, to put such native out of the fort and
see that he is not again admitted during that day unless specially
permitted; and the Sergeant of the guard may for this purpose imploy such
coercive measures (not extending to the taking of life) as shall at his
discretion be deemed necessary to effect the same.
When any native shall be detected in theft, the Sergt. of the guard shall
immediately inform the Commanding offercers of the same, to the end that
such measures may be pursued with rispect to the culprit as they shall
think most expedient.
At sunset on each day, the Sergt. attended by the interpreter Charbono and
two of his guard, will collect and put out of the fort, all Indians except
such as may specially be permitted to remain by the Commanding offercers,
nor shall they be again admitted untill the main gate be opened the
ensuing morning.
At Sunset, or immediately after the Indians have been dismissed, both
gates shall be shut, and secured, and the main gate locked and continue so
untill sunrise the next morning; the water-gate may be used freely by the
Garrison for the purpose of passing and repassing at all times, tho from
sunset, untill sunrise, it shall be the duty of the centinel, to open the
gate for, and shut it after all persons passing and repassing, suffering
the same never to remain unfixed long than is absolutely necessary.
It shall be the duty of the Sergt. of the guard to keep the kee of the
Meat house, and to cause the guard to keep regular fires therein when the
same may be necessary; and also once at least in 24 hours to visit the
canoes and see that they are safely secured; and shall further on each
morning after he is relieved, make his report verbally to the Commandg
officers.
Each of the old guard will every morning after being relieved furnish two
loads of wood for the commanding offercers fire.
No man is to be particularly exempt from the duty of bringing meat from
the woods, nor none except the Cooks and Interpreters from that of
mounting guard.
Each mess being furnished with an ax, they are directed to deposit in the
room of the commanding offercers all other public tools of which they are
possessed; nor shall the same at any time hereafter be taken from the said
deposit without the knoledge and permission of the commanding officers;
and any individual so borrowing the tools are strictly required to bring
the same back the moment he has ceased to use them, and no case shall they
be permited to keep them out all night.
Any individual selling or disposing of any tool or iron or steel
instrument, arms, accoutrements or ammunicion, shall be deemed guilty of a
breach of this order, and shall be tryed and punished accordingly.the
tools loaned to John Shields are excepted from the restrictions of this
order.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. 1st U.S. Regt. Wm. Clark Capt. &c
[Lewis, January 2, 1806]
Thursday, January 2nd 1806 Sent out a party of men and brought in the two
Elk which were killed yesterday. Willard and Wiser have not yet returned
nor have a party of hunters returned who set out on the 26th Ulto. the
Indians who visited yesterday left us at 1 P M today after having disposed
of their roots and berries for a few fishinghooks and some other small
articles. we are infested with swarms of flees already in our new
habitations; the presumption is therefore strong that we shall not devest
ourselves of this intolerably troublesome vermin during our residence
here. The large, and small or whistling swan, sand hill Crane, large and
small gees, brown and white brant, Cormorant, duckan mallard, Canvisback
duck, and several other species of ducks, still remain with us; tho I do
not think that they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the
neighbourhood. Drewyer visited his traps and took an otter. the fur of
both the beaver and otter in this country are extreemly good; those
annamals are tolerably plenty near the sea coast, and on the small Creeks
and rivers as high as the grand rappids, but are by no means as much so as
on the upper part of the Missouri.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
January 2nd Thursday 1806. A Cloudy rainey morning after a wet night.
dispatched 12 Men for the two Elk Killed yesterday which they brought in
at 11 oClock. the day proved Cloudy and wet, the Indians left us at 1
oClock P. M, Drewyer visited his traps which had one otter in one of them.
The flees are verry troublesom, our huts have alreadey Sworms of those
disagreeable insects in them, and I fear we Shall not get rid of them
dureing our delay at this place.
[Clark, January 2, 1806]
Thursday 2nd of January 1806. Sent out a party of men and brought in the
two Elk which was killed yesterday. Willard & Wiser have not yet
returned nor have a party of hunters who Set out on the 26th ulto the
Indians who visited us yesterday left us at 1 P. M to day after haveing
disposed of their roots and berries for a fiew fishing hooks and Some
other Small articles. we are infestd. with Sworms of flees already in our
new habatations; the presumption is therefore Strong that we Shall not
devest our Selves of this intolerably troublesom vermin dureing our
residence here. The large, & Small or whistling Swan, Sand hill crane,
large & Small Gees, brown and white brant, Comorant, Duckanmallard,
canvis back duck, and Several other Species of Ducks Still remain with us;
tho I doe not think they are as plenty as on our first arrival in the
neighbourhood. Drewyer visit his traps at took out an otter. the fur of
both the beaver and otter as also the rackoon in this countrey are
extreemly good; those animals are tolerably plenty near the Sea coast, on
the Small creeks and rivers as high as the grand Rapids.
[Lewis, January 3, 1806]
Friday January 3d 1806. At 11 A.M. we were visited by our near neighbours,
Chief or Tia, Como-wool; alias Conia and six Clatsops. they brought for
sale some roots buries and three dogs also a small quantity of fresh
blubber. this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their
neighbours the Callamucksz who inhabit the coast to the S. E. near whose
vilage a whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat and
esteeme it excellent food. our party from necessaty having been obliged to
subsist some lenth of time on dogs have now become extreemly fond of their
flesh; it is worthy of remark that while we lived principally on the flesh
of this anamal we were much more healthy strong and more fleshey than we
had been since we left the Buffaloe country. for my own part I have become
so perfectly reconciled to the dog that I think it an agreeable food and
would prefer it vastly to lean Venison or Elk. a small Crow, the blue
crested Corvus and the smaller corvus with a white brest, the little brown
ren, a large brown sparrow, the bald Eagle and the beatifull Buzzard of
the columbia still continue with us. — Sent Sergt. Gass and George
Shannon to the saltmakers who are somewhere on the coast to the S. W. of
us, to enquire after Willard and Wiser who have not yet returned. Reubin
Fields Collins and Pots the hunters who set out on the 26th Ulto. returned
this evening after dark. they reported that they had been about 15 Miles
up the river at the head of the bay just below us and had hunted the
country from thence down on the East side of the river, even to a
considerable distance from it and had proved unsuccessful) having killed
one deer and a few fowls, barely as much as subsisted them. this reminded
us of the necessity of taking time by the forelock, and keep out several
parties while we have yet a little meat beforehand.I gave the Chief
Comowooll a pare of sattin breechies with which he appeared much pleased.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
January 3rd Friday 1806 The Sun rose fair this morning for the first time
for Six weeks past, the Clouds Soon obscure it from our view, and a Shower
of rain Suckceededlast night we had Sharp lightening a hard thunder
Suckceeded with heavy Showers of hail, and rain, which Continud with
intervales of fair moon Shine dureing the night. Sent out Sergt. Gass
& 2 men to the Salt makers with a vew to know what is the Cause of the
delay of 2 of our party Willard & Wiser who we are uneasy about, as
they were to have been back 6 days ago.
[Clark, January 3, 1806]
Friday the 3rd January 1806 At 11 A. m. we were visited by our near
neighbour Chief (or Tia) Co mo wool alias Conia and Six Clat sops. they
brought for Sale Some roots berries and 3 Dogs also a Small quantity of
fresh blubber. this blubber they informed us they had obtained from their
neighbours the Cal la mox who inhabit the coast to the S. E near one of
their Villages a Whale had recently perished. this blubber the Indians eat
and esteem it excellent food. our party from necescity have been obliged
to Subsist Some length of time on dogs have now become extreamly fond of
their flesh; it is worthey of remark that while we lived principally on
the flesh of this animal we wer much more helthy Strong and more fleshey
then we have been Sence we left the Buffalow Country. as for my own part I
have not become reconsiled to the taste of this animal as yet. a Small
Crow, the blue Crested Corvus and the Smaller Corvus with a white breast,
the little brown ren, and a large brown Sparrow, the bald Eagle, and the
butifull Buzzard of the Columbia Still Continue with us, Send Sarjt. Gass
and G. Shannon to the Salt makers who are on the Sea Coast to the S, W. of
us, to enquire after Willard & Wiser who have not yet returned. R.
Field, potts & Collins the hunters who Set out on the 28th ulto.
returned this evening after dark. they reported that they had been about
15 miles up the river which falls into Meriwethers Bay to the East of us,
and had hunted the Country a considerable distance to East, and had proved
unsucksesfull haveing killed one Deer and a fiew fowls, bearly as much as
Subsisted them. this reminded us of the necessity of takeing time by the
forelock, and keep out Several parties while we have yet a little meat
beforehand. Capt Lewis gave the Cheif Cania a par of Sattin breechies with
which he appeared much pleased.
[Lewis, January 4, 1806]
Saturday January 4th 1806. Comowooll and the Clatsops who visited us
yesterday left us in the evening. These people the Chinnooks and others
residing in this neighbourhood and speaking the same language have been
very friendly to us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will
pilfer if they have an opportuny to do so where they conceive themselves
not liable to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they
conceive you anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a
handfull of roots; this I should have thought proceeded from their want of
knowledge of the comparitive value of articles of merchandize and the fear
of being cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the price
first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a smaller
quantity of the same article; in order to satisfy myself on this subject I
once offered a Chinnook my watch two knives and a considerable quantity of
beads for a small inferior sea Otter's skin which I did not much want, he
immediately conceived it of great value, and refused to barter except I
would double the quantity of beads; the next day with a great deal of
importunity on his part I received the skin in exchange for a few strans
of the same beads he had refused the day before. I therefore believe this
trait in their character proceeds from an avaricious all grasping
disposition. in this rispect they differ from all Indians I ever became
acquainted with, for their dispositions invariably lead them to give
whatever they are possessed off no matter how usefull or valuable, for a
bauble which pleases their fancy, without consulting it's usefullness or
value. nothing interesting occurred today, or more so, than our wappetoe
being all exhausted.
[Clark, January 4, 1806]
Saturday 4th January 1806 Comowool and the Clatsops who visited us
yesterday left us in the morning. Those people the Chinnook and others
resideing in this neighbourhood and Speaking the Same language have been
very friendly to us; they appear to be a mild inoffensive people but will
pilfer if they have an oppertunity to do So when they Conceive themselves
not liable to detection. they are great higlers in trade and if they
Conceive you anxious to purchase will be a whole day bargaining for a hand
full of roots; this I Should have thought proceeded from their want of
Knowledge of the Comparitive value of articles of merchindize and the fear
of being Cheated, did I not find that they invariably refuse the price
first offered them and afterwards very frequently accept a Smaller
quantity of the Same article; in order to Satisfy myself on this point, I
once offered a Clatsop man my watch a knife, a Dollar of the Coin of U
State and hand full of beeds, for a Small Sea otter Skin, which I did not
much want, he immediately Conceived it of great value, and refused to Sell
unless I would give as maney more beads; the next day with a great deel of
importunity on his part we receved the Skin in exchange for a fiew Strans
of the Same beeds he had refused the day before. I therefore beleive this
treat in their Charector proceeds from an avericious all grasping
dis-position. in this respect they differ from all Indians I ever became
acquainted with, for their dispositions invariably lead them to give what
ever they are possessed off no matter how usefull or valueable, for a
bauble which pleases their fancy, without Consulting its usefullness or
value. nothing occured to day, or more So, than our wappato being all
exhausted.
[Lewis, January 5, 1806]
Sunday January 5th 1806. At 5 P.M. Willard and Wiser returned, they had
not been lost as we apprehended. they informed us that it was not untill
the fifth day after leaving the Fort that they could find a convenient
place for making salt; that they had at length established themselves on
the coast about 15 Miles S. W. from this, near the lodge of some Killamuck
families; that the Indians were very friendly and had given them a
considerable quantity of the blubber of a whale which perished on the
coast some distance S. E. of them; part of this blubber they brought with
them, it was white & not unlike the fat of Poark, tho the texture was
more spongey and somewhat coarser. I had a part of it cooked and found it
very pallitable and tender, it resembled the beaver or the dog in flavour.
it may appear somewhat extraordinary tho it is a fact that the flesh of
the beaver and dog possess a very great affinity in point of flavour.
These lads also informed us that J. Fields, Bratton and Gibson (the Salt
makers) had with their assistance erected a comfortable camp killed an Elk
and several deer and secured a good stock of meat; they commenced the
making of salt and found that they could obtain from 3 quarts to a gallon
a day; they brought with them a specemine of the salt of about a gallon,
we found it excellent, fine, strong, & white; this was a great treat
to myself and most of the party, having not had any since the 20th ultmo.;
I say most of the party, for my friend Capt. Clark declares it to be a
mear matter of indifference with him whether he uses it or not; for myself
I must confess I felt a considerable inconvenience from the want of it;
the want of bread I consider as trivial provided, I get fat meat, for as
to the species of meat I am not very particular, the flesh of the dog the
horse and the wolf, having from habit become equally formiliar with any
other, and I have learned to think that if the chord be sufficiently
strong, which binds the soul and boddy together, it dose not so much
matter about the materials which compose it. Colter also returned this
evening unsuccessfull from the chase, having been absent since the 1st
Inst. — Capt. Clark determined this evening to set out early tomorrow
with two canoes and 12 men in quest of the whale, or at all events to
purchase from the Indians a parcel of the blubber, for this purpose he
prepared a small assortment of merchandize to take with him.
[Clark, January 5, 1806]
Sunday 5th of January 1806 At 5 p.m.Willard and Wiser returned, they had
not been lost as we expected. they informd us that it was not untill the
5th day after leaveing the fort, that they Could find a Convenient place
for makeing Salt; that they had at length established themselves on the
Sea Coast about 15 miles S. W. from this, near the houses of Some Clat Sop
& Kil a mox families; that the Indians were very friendly and had
given them a considerable quantity of the blubber of the whale which
perished on the Coast Some distance S. E. of them, it was white and not
unlike the fat of Pork, tho the texture was more Spungey and Somewhat
Coarser. we had part of it Cooked and found it very pallitable and tender,
it resembles the beaver in flavour. those men also informed us that the
Salt makers with their assistance had erected a Comfortable Camp, had
killed an Elk and Several Deer and Secured a good Stock of Meat; they
Commenced the makeing of Salt and found that they Could make from 3 quarts
to a gallon a day; they brought with them a Specimen of the Salt, of about
a gallon, we found it excellent white & fine, but not So Strong as the
rock Salt or that made in Kentucky or the Western parts of the U, States — this
Salt was a great treat to most of the party, haveing not had any Since the
20th ulto. as to my Self I care but little whether I have any with my meat
or not; provided the meat fat, haveing from habit become entirely cearless
about my diat, and I have learned to think that if the Cord be
Sufficiently Strong which binds the Soul and boddy together, it does not
So much matter about the materials which Compose it.
Colter returned this evening unsecksessfull from the Chase, haveing been
absent since the 1st inst.
I determine to Set out early tomorrow with two canoes & 12 men in
quest of the whale, or at all events to purchase from the indians a parcel
of the blubber, for this purpose I made up a Small assortment of
merchindize, and directed the men to hold themselves in readiness &c.
[Lewis, January 6, 1806]
Monday January 6th 1806. Capt Clark set out after an early breakfast with
the party in two canoes as had been concerted the last evening; Charbono
and his Indian woman were also of the party; the Indian woman was very
impotunate to be permited to go, and was therefore indulged; she observed
that she had traveled a long way with us to see the great waters, and that
now that monstrous fish was also to be seen, she thought it very hard she
could not be permitted to see either (she had never yet been to the
Ocean).
The Clatsops, Chinnooks, Killamucks &c. are very loquacious and
inquisitive; they possess good memories and have repeated to us the names
capasities of the vessels &c of many traders and others who have
visited the mouth of this river; they are generally low in stature,
proportionably small, reather lighter complected and much more illy formed
than the Indians of the Missouri and those of our frontier; they are
generally cheerfull but never gay. with us their conversation generally
turns upon the subjects of trade, smoking, eating or their women; about
the latter they speak without reserve in their presents, of their every
part, and of the most formiliar connection. they do not hold the virtue of
their women in high estimation, and will even prostitute their wives and
daughters for a fishinghook or a stran of beads. in common with other
savage nations they make their women perform every species of domestic
drudgery. but in almost every species of this drudgery the men also
participate. their women are also compelled to geather roots, and assist
them in taking fish, which articles form much the greatest part of their
subsistance; notwithstanding the survile manner in which they treat their
women they pay much more rispect to their judgment and oppinions in many
rispects than most indian nations; their women are permitted to speak
freely before them, and sometimes appear to command with a tone of
authority; they generally consult them in their traffic and act in
conformity to their opinions. I think it may be established as a general
maxim that those nations treat their old people and women with most
differrence and rispect where they subsist principally on such articles
that these can participate with the men in obtaining them; and that, that
part of the community are treated with.least attention, when the act of
procuring subsistence devolves intirely on the men in the vigor of life.
It appears to me that nature has been much more deficient in her filial
tie than in any other of the strong affections of the human heart, and
therefore think, our old men equally with our women indebted to
civilization for their ease and comfort. Among the Siouxs, Assinniboins
and others on the Missouri who subsist by hunting it is a custom when a
person of either sex becomes so old and infurm that they are unable to
travel on foot from camp to camp as they rome in surch of subsistance, for
the children or near relations of such person to leave them without
compunction or remose; on those occasions they usually place within their
reach a small peace of meat and a platter of water, telling the poor old
superannuated wretch for his consolation, that he or she had lived long
enough, that it was time they should dye and go to their relations who can
afford to take care of them much better than they could. I am informed
that this custom prevails even among the Minetares Arwerharmays and
Recares when attended by their old people on their hunting excurtions; but
in justice to these people I must observe that it appeared to me at their
vilages, that they provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and
several of their feasts appear to have principally for their object a
contribution for their aged and infirm persons.
This day I overhalled our merchandize and dryed it by the fire, found it
all damp; we have not been able to keep anything dry for many days
together since we arrived in this neighbourhood, the humidity of the air
has been so excessively great. our merchandize is reduced to a mear
handfull, and our comfort during our return the next year much depends on
it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that we much regret the
reduced state of this fund.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
2 3 4 5 & all Day 6t of January 1805 all last night rained without
intermition, & the morning. I sat out with 12 men in 2 Canoes to
around thro the bay and up a Creek to an old landing at which place the
Indians have a roade across thro Shashes West I landed made the Canoes
fast and Set out up the Cree on a road passed thro 3 Stashes to a pond,
then up & around th bend along a bad thick way, took an Indian path
which took us to a Creek which runs into the Sand bay at which place we
found a Canoe which took over 3 men at a time crossed and on the top of a
rise Saw Elk prosued & Killed one and encamped at the forks of a Creek
the West Eate th Elk all up. a fine Butifull moon Shining night unto
_____, Swan Geese, Brand &c.
[Clark, January 6, 1806]
Monday 6th of January 1806 The last evening Shabono and his Indian woman
was very impatient to be permitted to go with me, and was therefore
indulged; She observed that She had traveled a long way with us to See the
great waters, and that now that monstrous fish was also to be Seen, She
thought it verry hard that She Could not be permitted to See either (She
had never yet been to the Ocian). after an early brackfast I Set out with
two Canoes down the Ne tel R into Meriwether Bay with a view to proced on
to the Clatsop town, and hire a guide to conduct me through the Creeks
which I had every reason to beleeve Comunicated both with the Bay and a
Small river near to which our men were making Salt. Soon after I arrived
in the Bay the wind Sprung up from the N. W and blew So hard and raised
the waves so high that we were obliged to put into a Small Creek Short of
the Village. finding I could not proceed on to the Village in Safty, I
deturmined to assend this Creek as high as the Canoes would go; which from
its directions must be near the open lands in which I had been on the 10th
ulto., and leave the Canoes and proceed on by land. at the distance of
about 3 miles up this Creek I observed Some high open land, at which place
a road Set out and had every appearance of a portage, here I landed drew
up the Canoes and Set out by land, proceeded on through 3 deep Slashes to
a pond about a mile in length and 200 yards wide, kept up this pond
leaving it to the right, and passing the head to a Creek which we Could
not Cross, this Creek is the one which I rafted on the 8th & 9 ultimo.
and at no great distance from where I crossed in Cus ca lars Canoe on the
10th ulto. to which place I expected a find a canoe, we proceeded on and
found a Small Canoe at the place I expected, calculated to Carry 3 men, we
crossed and from the top of a ridge in the Prarie we Saw a large gange of
Elk feeding about 2 miles below on our direction. I divided the party So
as to be Certain of an elk, Several Shot were fired only one Elk fell, I
had this Elk butchered and carried to a Creak in advance at which place I
intended to encamp, two other Elk were badly Shot, but as it was nearly
dark we Could not pursue them, we proceeded on to the forks of the Creek
which we had just Crossed turning around to the S W. and meeting one of
equal Size from the South, the two makeing a little river 70 yards wide
which falls into the Ocian near the 3 Clat Sop houses which I visited on
the 9th ulto. in the forks of this Creek we found Some drift pine which
had been left on the Shore by the tide of which we made fires. the evening
a butifull Clear moon Shiney night, and the 1st fair night which we have
had for 2 months
[Lewis, January 7, 1806]
Monday January 7th 1806. Last evening Drewyer visited his traps and caught
a beaver and an otter; the beaver was large and fat we have therefore
fared sumptuously today; this we consider a great prize for another
reason, it being a full grown beaver was well supplyed with the materials
for making bate with which to catch others. this bate when properly
prepared will intice the beaver to visit it as far as he can smell it, and
this I think may be safely stated at a mile, their sense of smelling being
very accute. To prepare beaver bate, the castor or bark stone is taken as
the base, this is gently pressed out of the bladderlike bag which contains
it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if you have them you will
put from four to six stone in a phiol of that capacity, to this you will
add half a nutmeg, a douzen or 15 grains of cloves and thirty grains of
cinimon finely pulverized, stir them well together and then add as much
ardent sperits to the composition as will reduce it the consistency
mustard prepared for the table; when thus prepared it resembles mustard
precisely to all appearance. when you cannot procure a phiol a bottle made
of horn or a tight earthen vessel will answer, in all cases it must be
excluded from the air or it will soon loose it's virtue; it is fit for uce
immediately it is prepared but becomes much stronger and better in about
four or five days and will keep for months provided it be perfectly
secluded from the air. when cloves are not to be had use double the
quantity of Allspice, and when no spice can be obtained use the bark of
the root of sausafras; when sperits cannot be had use oil stone of the
beaver adding mearly a sufficient quantity to moisten the other materials,
or reduce it to a stif past. it appears to me that the principal uce of
the spices is only to give a variety to the scent of the bark stone and if
so the mace vineller and other sweetsmelling spices might be employed with
equal advantage. The male beaver has six stones, two which contain a
substance much like finely pulvarized bark of a pale yellow colour and not
unlike tanner's ooz in smell, these are called the bark stones or castors;
two others, which like the bark stone resemble small bladders, contain a
pure oil of a strong rank disagreeable smell, and not unlike train oil,
these are called the oil stones; and 2 others of generation. the
Barkstones are about two inches in length, the others somewhat smaller all
are of a long oval form; and lye in a bunch together between the skin and
the root of the tail, beneath or behind the fundament with which they are
closely connected and seem to communicate. the pride of the female lyes on
the inner side much like those of the hog. they have no further parts of
generation that I can perceive and therefore beleive that like the birds
they copulate with the extremity of the gut. The female have from two to
four young ones at a birth and bring fourth once a year only, which
usually happens about the latter end of may and begining of June. at this
stage she is said to drive the male from the lodge, who would otherwise
destroy the young. — dryed our lodge and had it put away under
shelter; this is the first day during which we have had no rain since we
arrived at this place. nothing extraordinary happened today.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Jany 7th Tuesday 1806 Set out at Day light, porceded up the Creek about 2
mile and crossed on a tree trunk the Salt makers have fallen across, then
proceeded on to the Ocean 3/4 mile & proceded up 3 miles to the mouth
of Colimex River about 80 or 100 yds wide verry rapid & Cuts its
banks, here we found an old Village of 3 houses, one only inhabited by one
familey, I gave the man a fish hook to put the party across, on the bank
found a Skeet fish which had been lef by the tide proceded on 2 miles on
the bank opposit a kind of bay the river Cross to the Sea Cost to 2 Inds
Indians Lodges at which place I found our Salt makers near the foot of a
mountain which form the Shore. Brackfast and hirired an Indian to pilot me
to the Ca le mix nation where the whale is for which I gave a file, we
proceded on the Stone under a high hill on our right bluff. Soft Stone
Sees verry high, Several parts of this hill recently Sliped in, about 3/4
of a mile abov the Houses Saw a Canoe in which the Dead was buried at 21/2
miles assended a Steep mountain, as Steep at it is possible places for
1500 feet we hauled our Selves up by the assistence of the bushes if one
had Given way we must have fallen a great distant the Steepest worst &
highest mountain I ever assended I think it at least 1500 feet highr than
the Sea imidiately under on the riht. we met 14 Indians loaded with
blubber proceded on thro an unusual bad way falling timber bendig under
logs &c. and encamped on a Creek which runs to my left find Day and
night, the timber Spruc White Cedar & &.
[Clark, January 7, 1806]
Tuesday 7th of January 1806 Some frost this morning. It may appear
Somewhat incrediable, but So it is that the Elk which was killed last
evening was eaten except about 8 pounds, which I directed to be taken
along with the Skin, I proceded up the South fork of the Creek about 2
miles and crossed on a pine tree which had been fallen by the Saltmakers
on their first going out, on this tree we crossed the deepest of the water
and waded on the opposit Side for 30 yards, from thence to the ocian 3/4
of a mile through a Continuation of open ridgey Prarie, here the Coast is
Sandy, we proceeded on the Sandy beech nearly South for 3 miles to the
mouth of butifull river with bold and rapid Current of 85 yards wide and 3
feet deep in the Shallowest place, a Short distance up this river on the N
E Side is the remains of an old village of Clatsops. I entered a house
where I found a Man 2 Womn & 3 Children, they appeared retchedly pore
& dirty, I hired the man to Set us across the River which I call after
the Nation Clat Sop river for which I gave 2 fishing hooks — at this
place the Creek over which I crossed on a tree passes within 100 yards of
the Clat Sop river over which the nativs have a portage which affords them
an easy Communication with the villages near point adams, and at the mouth
of the Creek, on which we lay last night. in walking on the Sand after
crossing the river I Saw a Singular Species of fish which I had never
before Seen one of the men Call this fish a Skaite, it is properly a
Thornback. I proceeded on about 2 miles to near the base of high Mountain
where I found our Salt makers, and with them Sergt. Gass, Geo. Shannon was
out in the woods assisting Jo Field and gibson to kill Some meat, the Salt
makers had made a neet Close Camp, Convenient to wood Salt water and the
fresh water of the Clat Sop river which at this place was within 100 paces
of the Ocian they wer also Situated near 4 houses of Clatsops &
Killamox, who they informed me had been verry kind and attentive to them.
I hired a young Indian to pilot me to the whale for which Service I gave
him a file in hand and promised Several other Small articles on my return,
left Sergt. Gass and one man of my party Werner to make Salt &
permited Bratten to accompany me, we proceeded on the round Slipery Stones
under a high hill which projected into the ocian about 4 miles further
than the direction of the Coast. after walking for 21/2 miles on the
Stones my guide made a Sudin halt, pointed to the top of the mountain and
uttered the word Pe Shack which means bad, and made Signs that we could
not proceed any further on the rocks, but must pass over that mountain, I
hesitated a moment & view this emence mountain the top of which was
obscured in the clouds, and the assent appeard. to be almost
perpindecular; as the Small Indian parth allong which they had brought
emence loads but a fiew hours before, led up this mountain and appeared to
assend in a Sideling direction, I thought more than probable that the
assent might be torerably easy and therefore proceeded on, I soon found
that the ____ become much worst as I assended, and at one place we were
obliged to Support and draw our Selves up by the bushes & roots for
near 100 feet, and after about 2 hours labour and fatigue we reached the
top of this high mountain, from the top of which I looked down with
estonishment to behold the hight which we had assended, which appeared to
be 10 or 12 hundred feet up a mountain which appeared to be almost
perpindicular, here we met 14 Indians men and women loaded with the oil
& Blubber of the whale. In the face of this tremendeous precipic
imediately below us, there is a Strater of white earth (which my guide
informed me) the neighbouring indians use to paint themselves, and which
appears to me to resemble the earth of which the French Porcelain is made;
I am confident that this earth Contains argill, but whether it also
Contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths in a proper
perpotion I am unable to deturmine. we left the top of the precipice and
proceeded on a bad road and encamped on a Small run passin g to the left.
all much fatiagued
[Lewis, January 8, 1806]
Tuesday January 8th 1806. Our meat is begining to become scarse; sent
Drewyer and Collins to hunt this morning. the guard duty being hard on the
men who now remain in the fort I have for their relief since the departure
of Capt. Clark made the Cooks mount guard. Sergt. Gass and Shannon have
not yet returned, nor can I immajen what is the cause of their detention.
In consequence of the clouds this evening I lost my P.M. observation for
Equal Altitudes, and from the same cause have not been able to take a
single observation since we have been at this place. nothing extraordinary
happened today.
The Clatsops Chinnooks and others inhabiting the coast and country in this
neighbourhood, are excessively fond of smoking tobacco. in the act of
smoking they appear to swallow it as they dran it from the pipe, and for
many draughts together you will not perceive the smoke which they take
from the pipe; in the same manner also they inhale it in their lungs
untill they become surcharged with this vapour when they puff it out to a
great distance through their nostils and mouth; I have no doubt the smoke
of the tobacco in this manner becomes much more intoxicating and that they
do possess themselves of all it's virtues in their fullest extent; they
freequently give us sounding proofs of it's creating a dismorallity of
order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought indelicate in
either sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the dictates of nature
without reserve. these people do not appear to know the uce of sperituous
liquors, they never having once asked us for it; I presume therefore that
the traders who visit them have never indulged them with the uce of it;
from what ever cause this may proceede, it is a very fortunate occurrence,
as well for the natives themselves, as for the quiet and safety of thos
whites who visit them.
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Jany 8 Wedned Set out at Day a fine morning wind hard from S. E at 11/2
miles arived at a Open where I had a view of the Seas Coast for a long
Distance rocks in every direction. Struck a branch and come down to the
Sea at which place an old village between 2 Creeks of the Colemix Nation
which inhabits this Coast, grave yard deposed of in Canoes in which the
bodies are laid in boxes in the Canoe, Paddles &c thos poople must use
thos Canoes in the higher Seas of which then ever I Saw on a Cost ruding
Countrey Crossed 3 points rocks great Distanc in the Sea, hill Sides
Sliping from emins ravins which appears to _____ proceeded on to the mouth
of a Creek about 80 yards wide at which Place I saw 5 Lodges of Indian of
the Ca la mix nation, boiling whale in a trough of about 20 gallons with
hot Stones, and the oyle they put into a Canoe I proceded on a Short
distance to the whales which was nothing more than the Sceleton, of 105
feet long, we took out a few bones and returned to the Cabins at the mouth
of the Creek, and attempted to trade with thos people who I found Close
and Capricious, would not trade the Smallest piece except they thought
they got an advantage of the bargain, their disposition is averitious,
& independant in trade, they offered to trade for Elk of which we had
not I purchased some oile and about 120 w of Blubber after rendered,
finding they would not trade I Deturmined to return home with what we have
The Houses of these people appear temporary a ridge pole on 2 forks
Supported a Certain number of Split boards of the red Cedar & pine,
Set on the end the gable ends of the Same materials and Calculated for 2
families first, The Dress and appearenc of the nativs as also the language
is procisely that of the Clopsots & Chinnooks, those people Save their
oile in bladder Guts &c.
Their food is principally fish that is thrown on the Shores by the Seas
& left by the tide, This Cost is rockey, the mountains high &
rugged, They inform me that their nation lives in 5 villages to the S E of
this place at the mouths of Creek in which they catch Samn. in the Season,
I got of those people a few roots Some Sturgeon whale____ &. They
Call a whale E cu-la a Creek Shu man, they have Some fiew Sea ortter for
which they ask Such prices I could not purchase any of them
Th party much fatigued in crossing 1 mountain & 4 high Points Steep
& Slipery, also Stony Beach Slippery and tiresom The high tide obliged
me to delay untill late before the tide put out, I Shot a raven & a
gul with my Small riffle which Suppised these people a little They are
fond of blue & white large beed only, files & fish Hooks which are
large- after Diner we Set out Crossed the Creek in a Small Canoe The tide
out and Encamped on the opposit Side, I was asked for ferrage and paid a
pin, one hut on the Side in which I Camped & Village a Short distance
above which I did not See last night, all the men came over & Smoked
with me, about bed time I herd a hollowing on the opposit Side of the
river which allarnied all the Indian men about me, they run across the
Creek, I Suspected perhaps Some of my party was over after the Squars, by
exemening found that McNeal was not in Camp, my guide who Staid with me
told me Some body throat was Cut. I emediately Sent Serjt Pryor & 2
men across for McNeal, they Soon returned haveing met the person I was
anxious to find out the Cause of the allarm, McNeal Said that a man
envited him to go across and get Some fish, locked arms of which he Contd
to hold he took him into a lodge and the woman gave him a Small piec the
man then invited him to another, the woman of the lodge puled his blanket,
& Sent out a Squar to hollow across, to inform of Something which aid.
McNeal I Sent over Sergt. Pryor to Know the Cause of the allarm which he
was informed that a Plot was laid to kill McNeal for his Blanket &
Clothes by this Indian who was from another Villg at Some distance, and
that She had attempted to Stop McNeal & findeing She Could not that
She then allarmed the men, Several of the mans Band was with me who
imedeately Cleared out, 2 men Came over & Slept at my feet. I kept a
guard & Sentinel all night a fair night wind blew from S. E. during
the evening I acquired all the information possiable respecting the Coast
to the S. E. got the name of many nations & the Nos. of their houses,
a map of the Coast in their way. I am very pore & weak for want of
Sufficient food and fear much that I shall require more assistance to get
back than I had to get to this place. a deturmined purcistance will as it
has done carry me through
[Clark, January 8, 1806]
Wednesday 8th January 1805 The last night proved fair and Cold wind hard
from the S. E. we Set out early and proceeded to the top of the mountain
next to the which is much the highest part and that part faceing the Sea
is open, from this point I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects
which my eyes ever surveyed, in my frount a boundless Ocean; to the N. and
N. E. the coast as as far as my sight Could be extended, the Seas rageing
with emence wave and brakeing with great force from the rocks of Cape
Disapointment as far as I could See to the N. W. The Clatsops Chinnooks
and other villagers on each Side of the Columbia river and in the Praries
below me, the meanderings of 3 handsom Streams heading in Small lakes at
the foot the high Country; The Columbia River for a Some distance up, with
its Bays and Small rivers and on the other Side I have a view of the Coast
for an emence distance to the S. E. by S. the nitches and points of high
land which forms this Corse for a long ways aded to the inoumerable rocks
of emence Sise out at a great distance from the Shore and against which
the Seas brak with great force gives this Coast a most romantic
appearance. from this point of View my guide pointed to a village at the
mouth of a Small river near which place he Said the whale was, he also
pointed to 4 other places where the princpal Villages of the Kil la mox
were Situated, I could plainly See the houses of 2 of those Villeges &
the Smoke of a 3rd which was two far of for me to disern with my naked eye — after
taking the Courses and computed the Distances in my own mind, I proceeded
on down a Steep decent to a Single house the remains of an old Kil a mox
Town in a nitch imediately on the Sea Coast, at which place great no. of
eregular rocks are out and the waves comes in with great force. Near this
old Town I observed large Canoes of the neetest kind on the ground Some of
which appeared nearly decayed others quit Sound, I examoned those Canoes
and found they were the repository of the dead — This Custom of
Secureing the Dead differs a little from the Chinnooks. the Kil a mox
Secure the dead bodies in an oblong box of Plank, which is placed in an
open Canoe resting on the ground, in which is put a paddle and Sundery
other articles the property of the disceased. The Coast in the
neighbourhood of this old village is slipping from the Sides of the high
hills, in emence masses; fifty or a hundred acres at a time give way and a
great proportion of an instant precipitated into the Ocean. those hills
and mountains are principally composed of a yellow Clay; their Slipping
off or Spliting assunder at this time is no doubt Caused by the incessant
rains which has fallen within the last two months. the mountans Covered
with a verry heavy Croth of pine & furr, also the white Cedar or arbor
vita and a Small proportion of the black alder, this alder grows to the
hight of Sixty or Seventy feet and from 2 to 3 feet in diamiter. Some
Species of pine on the top of the Point of View rise to the emmence hight
of 210 feet and from 8 to 12 feet in diameter, and are perfectly Sound and
Solid. Wind hard from the S. E and See looked ____ in the after part of
the Day breaking with great force against the Scattering rocks at Some
distance from Shore, and the ruged rockey points under which we wer
obleged to pass and if we had unfortunately made one false Stet we Should
eneviateably have fallen into the Sea and dashed against the rocks in an
instant, fortunately we passed over 3 of those dismal points and arived on
a butifull Sand Shore on which we Continued for 2 miles, Crossed a Creek
80 yards near 5 Cabins, and proceeded to the place the whale had perished,
found only the Skelleton of this monster on the Sand between 2 of the
villages of the Kil a mox nation; the Whale was already pillaged of every
valuable part by the Kil a mox Inds. in the vecinity of whose village's it
lay on the Strand where the waves and tide had driven up & left it.
this Skeleton measured 105 feet. I returned to the village of 5 Cabins on
the Creek which I shall call E co-la or whale Creek, found the nativs
busily engaged boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large Squar
wooden trought by means of hot Stones; the oil when extracted was Secured
in bladders and the Guts of the whale; the blubber from which the oil was
only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in their Cabins in
large flickes for use; those flickes they usially expose to the fire on a
wooden Spit untill it is prutty well wormed through and then eate it
either alone or with roots of the rush, Shaw na tdk we or diped in the
oil. The Kil a mox although they possessed large quantities of this
blubber and oil were so prenurious that they disposed of it with great
reluctiance and in Small quantities only; insomuch that my utmost exertion
aided by the party with the Small Stock of merchindize I had taken with me
were not able to precure more blubber than about 300 wt. and a fiew
gallons of oil; Small as this Stock is I prise it highly; and thank
providence for directing the whale to us; and think him much more kind to
us than he was to jonah, having Sent this monster to be Swallowed by us in
Sted of Swallowing of us as jonah's did. I recrossed E co la Creek and
Encamped on the bank at which place we observed an ebundance of fine wood
the Indian men followed me for the purpose of Smokeing. I enquired of
those people as well as I could by Signs the Situation, mode of liveing
& Strength of their nation They informed me that the bulk of their
nation lived in 3 large villages Still further along the Sea coast to the
S, S, W. at the enterence Of 3 Creek which fell into a bay, and that other
houses were Scattered about on the Coast, Bay and on a Small river which
fell into the Bay in which they Cought Salmon, and from this Creek (which
I call Kil a mox River) they crossed over to the Wappato I. on the
Shock-ah-lil com (which is the Indian name for the Columbia river) and
purchased Wappato &c. that the nation was once verry large and that
they had a great maney houses, In Salmon Season they Cought great numbers
of that fish in the Small Creeks, when the Salmon was Scerce they found
Sturgion and a variety of other fish thrown up by the waves and left by
the tide which was verry fine, Elk was plenty in the mountains, but they
Could not Kill maney of them with their arrows. The Kil d mox in their
habits Customs manners dress & language differ but little from the
Clatsops, Chinnooks and others in this neighbourhood are of the Same form
of those of the Clatsops with a Dore at each end & two fire places i,
e the house is double as long as wide and divided into 2 equal parts with
a post in the middle Supporting the ridge pole, and in the middle of each
of those divisions they make their fires, dotes Small & houses Sunk 5
feet
[Lewis, January 9, 1806]
Friday January 9th 1806. Our men are now very much engaged in dressing Elk
and Deer skins for mockersons and cloathing. the deer are extreemly scarce
in this neighbourhood, some are to be found near the praries and open
grounds along the coast. this evening we heard seven guns in quick
succession after each other, they appeared to be on the Creek to the South
of us and several miles distant; I expect that the hunters Drewyer and
Collins have fallen in with a gang of Elk. some marrow bones and a little
fresh meat would be exceptable; I have been living for two days past on
poor dryed Elk, or jurk as the hunters term it.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. bury their dead in their canoes. for this
purpose four pieces of split timber are set erect on end, and sunk a few
feet in the grown, each brace having their flat sides opposite to each
other and sufficiently far assunder to admit the width of the canoes in
which the dead are to be deposited; through each of these perpendicular
posts, at the hight of six feet a mortice is cut, through which two bars
of wood are incerted; on these cross bars a small canoe is placed in which
the body is laid after being carefully roled in a robe of some dressed
skins; a paddle is also deposited with them; a larger canoe is now
reversed, overlaying and imbracing the small one, and resting with it's
gunwals on the cross bars; one or more large mats of rushes or flags are
then roled around the canoes and the whole securely lashed with a long
cord, usually made of the bark of the Arbor vita or white cedar. on the
cross bars which support the canoes is frequently hung or laid various
articles of cloathing culinary eutensels &c. I cannot understand them
sufficiently to make any enquiries relitive to their religeous opinions,
but presume from their depositing various articles with their dead, that
they believe in a state of future existence.
The persons who usually visit the entrance of this river for the purpose
of traffic or hunting I believe are either English or Americans; the
Indians inform us that they speak the same language with ourselves, and
give us proofs of their varacity by repeating many words of English, as
musquit, powder, shot, nife, file, damned rascal, sun of a bitch &c.
whether these traders are from Nootka sound, from some other late
establishment on this coast, or immediately from the U States or Great
Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor can the Indians inform us. the
Indians whom I have asked in what direction the traders go when they
depart from hence, or arrive here, always point to the S. W. from which it
is presumeable that Nootka cannot be their destination; and as from Indian
information a majority of these traders annually visit them about the
beginning of April and remain with them six or seven Months, they cannot
come immediately from Great Britain or the U States, the distance being
too great for them to go and return in the ballance of the year. from this
circumstance I am sometimes induced to believe that there is some other
establishment on the coast of America south West of this place of which
little is but yet known to the world, or it may be perhaps on some Island
in the pacific ocean between the Continents of Asia and America to the
South West of us. This traffic on the part of the whites consists in
vending, guns, (principally old british or American musquits) powder,
balls and Shot, Copper and brass kettles, brass teakettles and coffee
pots, blankets from two to three point, scarlet and blue Cloth (coarse),
plates and strips of sheet copper and brass, large brass wire, knives,
beads and tobacco with fishinghooks buttons and some other small articles;
also a considerable quantity of Sailor's cloaths, as hats coats, trowsers
and shirts. for these they receive in return from the natives, dressed and
undressed Elkskins, skins of the sea Otter, common Otter, beaver, common
fox, spuck, and tiger cat; also dryed and pounded sammon in baskets, and a
kind of buisquit, which the natives make of roots called by them
shappelell. The natives are extravegantly fond of the most common cheap
blue and white beads, of moderate size, or such that from 50 to 70 will
weigh one penneyweight. the blue is usually pefered to the white; these
beads constitute the principal circulating medium with all the indian
tribes on this river; for these beads they will dispose any article they
possess. — the beads are strung on strans of a fathom in length and in
that manner sold by the bredth or yard.
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
January 9th Thursday 1806 a fine morning wind N E Set out at day lighte
every man Some meat of the whale and a little oile proceded on the track
we Came out to a house at a branch where we halted 1/2 an hour to rest
this house is at at place an old village has formerly been, on the Coast
at the Comencment ____ 27 foot wide 35 feet long Sunk in the ground 5 feet
2 Dotes & 2 fire places dotes 29 Ins. high & 141/4 wide handsom
Steps to decend down a post in the middle Coverede with boards Split thin
an 2 feet wide, old grave in Canoes of 3 feet 8 Inches wide & 5 feet
long neetly made high at bow proceded on to the top of the hill Passing 3
bad points rockey &. from the Point Clarks Point of view Cape Disapt.
bears S. 12° E passing a Great point at 15 miles one at 40 miles rocks out
to the 1st large point from the Creek 4 points, between the 1st large
Point and 2d a point of many large rocks, Day Clouded up, I can See a
point Bearing N 5° East along way just in Sight. from Clarks View Point to
Cape Disapointment is N 20° W. To point adams &the open Slope point is
North and a Sharp point, met a party of Chinnooks going to get whale
blubber to eate & oile each of which they eate together, we also over
took Several parties of the Clot Sops loaded with imence laods of the
blubber and oile maney of those loads I with difficuelty raised,
Estonishing what custom will do. at 2 oClock we arrived at the Camp of our
Salt makers verry much fatigued, more So than I ever was before, the
Indians all proceeded on, I concluded to Stay all night, as the party was
much fatigued, and Send out 2 men which I had left here to hunt Ducks up
the little river, Jo. Fields had killed an Elk and brought in a quarter on
which we Dined he also had killed & brought in a Deer. The Indians
with the oile & bluber tole me they had to purchase of the Ca-le nixx
and would Come to the fort & Sell to us in 3 Days time, this I
incouraged, as I expect to purchase at the fort as cheep as at the village
at which I was, day proved fine. rained the greater part of the night I
went into an Indian Lodge they were pore Durty and the house full of
flees. he offered me roots which they geather on the Sea Cost a kind of
rush, of which they offered me to eate,
[Clark, January 9, 1806]
Thursday 9th of January 1806 a fine morning wind from the N. E. last night
about 10 oClock while Smokeing with the nativ's I was alarmed by a loud
Srile voice from the Cabins on the opposite Side, the Indians all run
immediately across to the village, my guide who Continued with me made
Signs that Some one's throat was Cut, by enquiry I found that one man
McNeal was absent, I imediately Sent off Sergt. N. Pryor & 4 men in
quest of McNeal who they met comeing across the Creak in great hast, and
informed me that the people were alarmed on the opposit Side at Something
but what he could not tell, a man had verry friendly envited him to go and
eate in his lodge, that the Indian had locked armes with him and went to a
lodge in which a woman gave him Some blubber, that the man envited him to
another lodge to get Something better, and the woman held him by the
blanket which he had around him another ran out and hollow'd and his
pretended friend disapeared — I emediately ordered every man to hold
themselves in a State of rediness and Sent Sergt. Pryor & 4 men to
know the cause of the alarm which was found to be a premeditated plan of
the pretended friend of McNeal to assanate for his Blanket and what fiew
articles he had about him, which was found out by a Chin nook woman who
allarmed the men of the village who were with me in time to prevent the
horred act. this man was of another band at Some distance and ran off as
Soon as he was discovered. we have now to look back and Shudder at the
dreadfull road on which we have to return of 45 miles S E of Point adams
& 35 miles from Fort Clatsop. I had the blubber & oil divided
among the party and Set out about Sunrise and returned by the Same rout we
had went out, met Several parties of men & womin of the Chinnook and
Clatsops nations, on their way to trade with the Kil a mox for blubber and
oil; on the Steep decent of the Mountain I overtook five men and Six womin
with emence loads of the Oil and blubber of the Whale, those Indians had
passed by Some rout by which we missed them as we went out yesterday; one
of the women in the act of getting down a Steep part of the mountain her
load by Some means had Sliped off her back, and She was holding the load
by a Strap which was fastened to the mat bag in which it was in, in one
hand and holding a bush by the other, as I was in front of my party, I
endeavored to relieve this woman by takeing her load untill She Could get
to a better place a little below, & to my estonishment found the load
as much as I Could lift and must exceed 100 wt. the husband of this woman
who was below Soon came to her releif, those people proceeded on with us
to the Salt works, at which place we arrived late in the evening, found
them without meat, and 3 of the Party J. Field Gibson & Shannon out
hunting. as I was excessively fatigued and my party appeared verry much
so, I deturmined to Stay untill the morning and rest our Selves a little.
The Clatsops proceeded on with their lodes — The Clatsops, Chin nooks
Kil a mox &c. are verry loquacious and inquisitive; they possess good
memories and have repeeted to us the names capasities of the Vessels &c
of maney traders and others who have visited the mouth of this river; they
are generally low in Statue, proportionably Small, reather lighter
complected and much more illy formed than the Indians of the Missouri and
those of our fronteers; they are generally Chearfull but never gay. with
us their Conversation generally turns upon the subject of trade, Smokeing,
eating or their womin; about the latter, they Speak without reserve in
their presence, of their every part, and of the most farmiliar Connection.
they do not hold the virtue of their womin in high estimation, and will
even prostitute their wives and Daughters for a fishing hook or a Stran of
beeds. in Common with other Savage nations they make their womin perform
every Species of domestic drugery; but in almost every Species of this
drugery the men also participate. their woman are compelled to gather
roots, and assist them in takeing fish; which articles form much the
greater part of their Subsistance; notwithstanding the Survile manner in
which they treat their womin they pay much more respect to their judgement
and oppinion in maney respects than most indian nations; their womin are
permited to Speak freely before them, and Sometimes appear to command with
a tone of authority; they generally consult them in their traffic and act
conformably to their opinions.
I think it may be established as a general maxim that those nations treat
their old people and women with most defference and respect where they
Subsist principally on Such articles that these can participate with the
men in obtaining them; and that, that part of the Community are treated
with least attention, when the act of precureing subsistance devolves
intirely on the men in the vigor of life. It appears to me that nature has
been much more deficient in her filial ties than in any others of the
Strong effections of the humane heart, and therefore think our old men
equally with our woman indebted to Sivilization for their ease and
Comfort. I am told among the Sioux's, Assinniboins and others on the
Missouri who Subsist by hunting it is a Custom when a person of either Sex
becoms So old and infirm that they are unable to travel on foot, from Camp
to Camp as they rove in serch of Subsistance, for the Children or near
relations of Such person to leave them without Compunction or remorse; on
those occasions they usially place within their reach a Small piece of
meat and a platter of water, telling the poor old Superannuated retch for
their Consolation, that he or She had lived long enough, and that it was
time they Should die and go to their relations who Can afford to take Care
of them, much better than they Could. I am informed that the Me ne tar es
Ar war har mays and Ricares when attended by their old people on their
hunting expedition prosued the Same Custom; but injustice to those people
I must observe that it appeared to me at their villages, that they
provided tolerably well for their aged persons, and Several of their
feasts appear to have principally for their object a contribution for
their aged and infirm persons. In one of the Mandan villages I Saw an old
man to whome I gave a knife and enquired his age, he Said he had Seen more
than 100 winters, and that he Should Soon go down the river to their old
village — he requested I would give him Something to prevent the pain
in his back his grand Son a Young man rebuked the old man and Said it was
not worth while, that it was time for the old man to die. the old man
occupied one Side of the fire and was furnished with plenty of Covouring
and food, and every attention appeared to be paid him &c. Jo. Field in
my absence had killed an Elk and a Deer, brought in the Deer and half of
the Elk on a part of which we Suped, Some rain a little after dark. I
visited a house near the Salt boilers found it inhabited by 2 families,
they were pore dirty and their house Sworming with flees.
[Lewis, January 10, 1806]
Saturday January 10th 1806. About 10 A.M. I was visited by Tia
Shah-har-war-cap and eleven of his nation in one large canoe; these are
the Cuth'-lah-mah nation who reside first above us on the South side of
the Columbia river; this is the first time that I have seen the Chief, he
was hunting when we past his vilage on our way to this place. I gave him a
medal of the smallest size; he presented me with some indian tobacco and a
basquit of wappetoe, in return for which I gave him some thread for making
a skiming net and a small piece of tobacco. these people speak the same
language with the Chinnooks and Catsops whom they also resemble in their
dress customs manners &c. they brought some dryed salmon, wappetoe,
dogs, and mats made of rushes and flags, to barter; their dogs and a part
of their wappetoe they disposed off, an remained all night near the fort.
This morning Drewyer and Collins returned having killed two Elk only, and
one of those had died in their view over a small lake which they had not
the means of passing it being late in the evening and has of course
spoiled, as it laid with the entrals in it all night; as the tide was
going out we could not send for the elk today, therefore ordered a party
to go for it early in the morning and George and Collins to continue their
hunt; meat has now become scarce with us.
Capt Clark returned at to P.M. this evening with the majority of the party
who accompanyed him; having left some men to assist the saltmakers to
bring in the meat of two Elk which they had killed, and sent 2 others
through by land to hunt. Capt. Clark found the whale on the Coast about 45
Miles S. E. of Point Adams, and about 35 Miles from Fort Clatsop by the
rout he took; The whale was already pillaged of every valuable part by the
Killamucks, in the vicinity of one of whose villages it lay on the strand
where the waves and tide had driven up and left it. this skelleton
measured one hundred and five feet. Capt. C. found the natives busily
engaged in boiling the blubber, which they performed in a large wooden
trought by means of hot stones; the oil when extracted was secured in
bladders and the guts of the whale; the blubber, from which the oil was
only partially extracted by this process, was laid by in their lodges in
large fliches for uce; this they usually expose to the fire on a wooden
spit untill it is pretty well warmed through and then eat it either alone
or with the roots of the rush, squawmash, fern wappetoe &c. The
natives although they possessed large quantities of this blubber and oil
were so penurious that they disposed of it with great reluctance and in
small quantities only; insomuch that the utmost exertions of Capt. C. and
the whole party aided by the little stock of merchandize he had taken with
him and some small articles which the men had, were not able to procure
more blubber than about 300 lb. and a few gallons of the oil; this they
have brought with them, and small as the store is, we prize it highly, and
thank providence for directing the whale to us, and think him much more
kind to us than he was jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by
us in stead of swallowing of us as jona's did. Capt. C. found the road
along the coast extreemly difficult of axcess, lying over some high rough
and stoney hills, one of which he discribes as being much higher than the
others, having it's base washed by the Ocean over which it rares it's
towering summit perpendicularly to the hight of 1500 feet; from this
summit Capt. C. informed me that there was a delightfull and most
extensive view of the Ocean, the coast and adjacent country; this Mout. I
have taken the liberty of naming Clark's Mountain and point of view; it is
situated about 30 M. S. E. of Point Adams and projects about 21/2 miles
into the Ocean; Killamucks river falls in a little to the N. W. of this
mountain; in the face of this tremendious precepice there is a stra of
white earth (see specimen No. ____) which the neighbouring Indians use to
paint themselves, and which appears to me to resemble the earth of which
the French Porcelain is made; I am confident this earth contains Argill,
but wether it also contains Silex or magnesia, or either of those earths
in a proper proportion I am unable to determine. — Shannon and Gass
were found with the Salt makers and ordered to return McNeal was near
being assassinated by a Killamuck Indian, but fortunately escaped in
consequence of a Chinnook woman giving information to Capt. C., the party
and Indians with them before the villain had prepaired himself to execute
his purposes. The party returned excessively fortiegued and tired of their
jaunt. Killamucks river is 85 yards wide, rappid and 3 feet deep in the
shallowest part. The Killamucks in their habits customs manners dress and
language differ but little from the Clatsops & Chinnooks. they place
their dead in canoes resting on the ground uncovered, having previously
secured the dead bodies in an oblong box of plank.
The coast in the neighbourhood of Clarks Mountain is sliping off &
falling into the Ocean in immence masses; fifty or a hundred Acres at a
time give way and a great proportion in an instant precipitated into the
Ocean. these hills and mountains are principally composed of a yellow
clay; there sliping off or spliting assunder at this time is no doubt
caused by the incessant rains which have fallen within the last two
months. the country in general as about Fort Clatsop is covered with a
very heavy growth of several species of pine & furr, also the arbor
vita or white cedar and a small proportion of the black Alder which last
sometimes grows to the hight of sixty or seventy feet, and from two to
four feet in diameter. some species of the pine rise to the immence hight
of 210 feet and are from 7 to 12 feet in diameter, and are perfectly sound
and solid.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Jany 10 Friday 1806 I left Sergt. Gass here and Set out at Sun rise,
Crossed the little river which I waded 85 yards wide & 3 feet Deep
Swift, at which place I Saw Several Indians one of which had 2 butifull
Sea orter Skins on as a roabe, here the Creek which I crossed at a tree
and on which I camped the 6th inst. came within 200 yds of the river &
they Inds. make a portage here, Continued on a place 3 miles Crossed this
Creek in a Small Canoe. here I expected to find Shannon and gibson with
meet to furnish the Salt makers, but did not, divided the party Sent 2 men
to my right to try and kill Elk, Soon after met Gibson & Shannon with
meat, they had killed 2 Elk 2 miles to my right, I divided the meat
between the party, and the load of 3 men whome I Send with gibson &
Shannon to help Carrey the 2 Elk to the Salt makers, and I my Self and the
party returned by the Same rout we went out to the Canoes Rd. Frasure
behaved very badly, and mutonous — he also lost his large Knife. I
Sent him back to look for his knife, with Directions to return with the
party of Serjt Gass, I proceded on, here is a portage of 1/4 of a mile
from this Creck to a branch which falls into the Bay, we proceeded on a
much bette road than we went out across a Deep Slash and found our Canoes
Safe, and Set out at Sunset, and arived at the foart, wet and Cold at 9
oClock P.M. found a Cheif & number of Indians both Encamped on the
Shore, and at the fort of the Cath la-hur Tribe which lives at no great
distance above this back of an Island Close under the South Side of the
Columbia River
Those people Speake the Same Language of the Clotsops dress nearly alike
the men of both Cut their hair in the neck. use blankets of the
manifactory of the nativs near the falls of the Sheep Wool-fond of brass
arm bands and Check, They bring Wap-pa-to root (which is Sagittifolia or
the Common arrow head which is Cultivated by the Chinees) to Sell.
[Clark, January 10, 1806]
Friday the 10th of January 1806 I derected Serjt. Gass to Continue with
the Salt makers untill Shannon return from hunting, and then himself and
Shannon to return to the Fort, I Set out at Sunrise with the party waded
the Clat Sop river which I found to be 85 Steps across and 3 feet deep, on
the opposite Side a Kil a mox Indian Came to and offered to Sell Some
roots of which I did not want, he had a robe made of 2 large Sea otter
Skins which I offered to purchase, but he would not part with them, we
returned by nearly the Same rout which I had Come out, at four miles, I
met Gibson & Shannon each with a load of meat, they informed me that
they had killed Elk about 2 miles off, I directed 3 men to go with the
hunters and help them pack the meat to the place they were makeing Salt,
and return to the fort with Serjt. Gass, the balance of the party took the
load of the 3 men, after crossing the 2d Creek frasure informed me that he
had lost his big knife, here we Dined, I put frasurs load on my guide who
is yet with me, and Sent him back in Serch of his knife with directions to
join the other men who were out packing meat & return to the fort all
together. I arrived at the Canoes about Sunset, the tides was Comeing in I
thought it a favourable time to go on to the fort at which place we
arrived at 10 oClock P M, found Several inidians of the Cath'-lah-mah
nation the great Chief Shahhar-wah cop who reside not far above us on the
South Side of the Columbia River, this is the first time I have Seen the
Chief, he was hunting when we passed his village on our way to this place,
we gave him a medal of the Smallest Size, he presented me with a basquet
of Wappato, in return for which I gave him a fish hook of a large Size and
Some wire, those people Speak the Same language with the Chinnooks and
Clatsops, whome they all resemble in Dress, Custom, manners &c. they
brought Some Dried Salmon, Wappato, Dogs, and mats made of rushes &
flags to barter; their Dogs and part of their wappato they disposed of,
and remained in their Camp near the fort all night.
In my absence the hunters from the fort killed only two Elk which is yet
out in the woods. Capt. Lewis examined our Small Stock of merchendize
found Some of it wet and Dried it by the fire. Our merchindize is reduced
to a mear handfull, and our Comfort, dureing our return next year, much
depends on it, it is therefore almost unnecessary to add that it is much
reduced The nativs in this neighbourhood are excessively fond of Smokeing
tobacco. in the act of Smokeing they appear to Swallow it as they draw it
from the pipe, and for maney draughts together you will not perceive the
Smoke they take from the pipe, in the Same manner they inhale it in their
longs untill they become Surcharged with the vapour when they puff it out
to a great distance through their norstils and mouth; I have no doubt that
tobacco Smoked in this manner becomes much more intoxicating, and that
they do possess themselves of all its virtues to the fullest extent; they
frequently give us Sounding proofs of its createing a dismorallity of
order in the abdomen, nor are those light matters thought indelicate in
either Sex, but all take the liberty of obeying the dicktates of nature
without reserve. Those people do not appear to know the use of Speritious
licquors, they never haveing once asked us for it; I prosume therefore
that the traders who visit them have never indulged them with the use of
it; of whatever Cause this may proceed, it is a verry fortunate
occurrence, as well for the nativs themselves, as for the quiet and Safty
of those whites who visit them. George Drewyer visited this traps in my
absence and caught a Beaver & a otter; the beaver was large and fat,
and Capt. L. has feested Sumptiously on it yesterday; this we Consider as
a great prize, it being a full grown beaver was well Supplyed with the
materials for makeing bate with which to Catch others. this bate when
properly prepared will entice the beaver to visit it as far as he can
Smell it, and this I think may be Safely Stated at 1/2 a mile, their Sence
of Smelling being verry accute. To prepare beaver bate, the Caster or bark
Stone is taken as the base, this is generally pressed out of the bladder
like bag which Contains it, into a phiol of 4 ounces with a wide mouth; if
you have them you will put from 4 to 6 Stone in a phial of that Capacity,
to this you will add half a nutmeg, a Dozen or 15 grains of Cloves and 30
grains of Sinimon finely pulverised, Stur them well together, and then add
as much ardent Sperits to the Composition as will reduce it to the
Consistancey of mustard prepared for the table, when thus prepared it
resembles mustard precisely to all appearance. When you cannot precure a
phial a bottle made of horn or a light earthern vessel will answer, in all
Cases it must be excluded from the air or it will Soon lose its Virtue; it
is fit for use imediately it is prepared but becoms much Stronger and
better in 4 or 5 days and will keep for months provided it be purfectly
Secluded from the air. when Cloves are not to be had use double the
quantity of allspice, and when no Spices can be obtained use the bark of
the root of the Sausafras; when Sperits cannot be had use oil Stone of the
beaver adding mearly a Sufficent quantity to moisten the other materials,
or reduce it to a Stiff paste. it appears to me that the principal use of
the Spices is only to give a variety to the Scent of the bark Stone and if
So the mace vineller, and other Sweet Smelling Spices might be employd
with equal advantage. The Male Beaver has Six stones, two which Contanes a
Substance much like finely pulverised bark of a pale yellow Colour and not
unlike tanner's ooz in Smell, these are Called the bark Stones or castors;
two others, which like the bark stone resemble Small blatters, contain a
pure oil of a Strong rank disagreable Smell, and not unlike train Oil,
these are Called the Oil Stones, and two others of Generation. The bark
stones are about 2 inches in length, the others Somewhat Smaller, all are
of a long Oval form, and lye in a bunch together between the skin and the
root of the tail beneath or behind the fundiment with which they are
Closely Connected and Seam to Communicate, the pride of the female lye on
the inner Side much like those of the hog they have no further parts of
Generation that I can proceive, and therefore believe that like the birds
they Coperate with the extremity of the gut. The female have from 2 to 4
young ones at a birth and bring forth once a year only which usially
happins about the Latter end of May and beginning of June. at this Stage
She is Said to drive the Mail from the lodge, who would otherwise distroy
the young
[Lewis, January 11, 1806]
Sunday January 11th 1806. Sent a party early this morning for the Elk
which was killed on the 9th. they returned with it in the evening; Drewyer
and Collins also returned without having killed anything. this morning the
Sergt. of the guard reported the absence of our Indian Canoe, on enquiry
we found that those who came in it last evening had been negligent in
securing her and the tide in the course of the night had taken her off; we
sent a party down to the bay in surch of her, they returned unsuccessfull,
the party also who went up the river and Creek in quest of the meat were
ordered to lookout for her but were equally unsuccessfull; we ordered a
party to resume their resurches for her early tomorrow; this will be a
very considerable loss to us if we do not recover her; she is so light
that four men can carry her on their sholders a mile or more without
resting; and will carry three men and from 12 to 15 hundred lbs. the
Cuthlahmahs left us this evening on their way to the Catsops, to whom they
purpose bartering their wappetoe for the blubber and oil of the whale,
which the latter purchased for beads &c. from the Killamucks; in this
manner there is a trade continually carryed on by the natives of the river
each trading some article or other with their neighbours above and below
them; and thus articles which are vended by the whites at the entrance of
this river, find their way to the most distant nations enhabiting it's
waters.
[Clark, January 11, 1806]
Saturday 11th of January 1806 Sent a party early this morning for the Elk
which was killed on the 9th they returned with it in the evining; This
morning the Serjt. of the guard reported that our Indian Canoe had gone a
Drift, on enquiry we found that those who Came in it last evening had been
negligent in Secureing her, and the tide in Corse of the night had taken
her off; we Sent a party down to the bay in Serch of her, they returned
unsecksessfull, the party who went up the river and Creek after meat were
derected to look out for her but were equally unsecksessfull; this will be
a verry considerable loss to us if we do not recover her, She is so light
that 4 men Can Carry her on their Sholders a mile or more without resting,
and will Carry four men and from 10 to 12 hundred pounds. The Cath IA mahs
left us this evening on their way to the Clatsops, to whome they perpose
bartering their wappato for the blubber & Oil of the whale, which the
latter purchased for Beeds &c. from the Kil a mox; in this manner
there is a trade Continually Carried on by the nativs of the river each
tradeing Some articles or other with their neighbours above and below
them, and those articles which are Vended by the whites at their enterance
of this river, find their way to the most distant nations inhabiting its
waters.
[Lewis, January 12, 1806]
Monday January 12th 1806. The men who were sent in surch of the canoe
returned without being able to find her, we therefore give her over as
lost. This morning sent out Drewyer and one man to hunt, they returned in
the evening, Drewyer having killed seven Elk; I scarcely know how we
should subsist were it not for the exertions of this excellet hunter. At 2
P.M. the ballance of the party who had been left by Capt. C. arrived;
about the same time the two hunters also arrived who had been dispatched
by Capt C. for the purpose of hunting on the 9th inst.; they had killed
nothing. We have heretofore usually divided the meat when first killed
among the four messes into which we have divided our party leaving to each
the care of preserving and the discretion of using it, but we find that
they make such prodigal use of it when they hapen to have a tolerable
stock on hand that we have determined to adapt a different system with our
present stock of seven Elk; this is to jerk it & issue it to them in
small quantities.
[Clark, January 12, 1806]
Sunday the 12th January 1806 This morning Sent out Drewyer and one man to
hunt, they returned in the evening Drewyer haveing killed 7 Elk; I
scercely know how we Should Subsist, I beleive but badly if it was not for
the exertions of this excellent hunter; maney others also exert
themselves, but not being accquainted with the best method of finding and
killing the elk and no other wild animals is to be found in this quarter,
they are unsucksessfull in their exertions. at 2 P. M Serjt. Gass and the
men I left to assist the Salt makers in Carrying in their meat arrived
also the hunters which I directed to hunt in the point, they killed
nothing-. We have heretofore devided the meat when first killed among the
four messes, into which we have divided our party, leaveing to each the
Care of preserving and distribution of useing it; but we find that they
make such prodigal use of it when they happen to have a tolerable Stock on
hand, that we are determined to adapt a Different System with our present
stock of Seven Elk; this is to jurk it and issue it to them in Small
quantities
[Lewis, January 13, 1806]
Tuesday January 13th 1806. This morning I took all the men who could be
spared from the Fort and set out in quest of the flesh of the seven Elk
that were killed yesterday, we found it in good order being untouched by
the wolves, of which indeed there are but few in this country; at 1 P.M.
we returned having gotten all the meat to the fort. this evening we
exhausted the last of our candles, but fortunately had taken the
precaution to bring with us moulds and wick, by means of which and some
Elk's tallow in our possession we do not yet consider ourselves destitute
of this necessary article; the Elk we have killed have a very small
portion of tallow.
The traders usually arrive in this quarter, as has been before observed,
in the month of April, and remain untill October; when here they lay at
anchor in a bay within Cape Disappointment on the N. side of the river;
here they are visited by the natives in their canoes who run along side
and barter their comodities with them, their being no houses or
fortification on shore for that purpose. the nations who repare thither
are fist, those of the sea coast S. E. of the entrance of the river, who
reside in the order in which their names are mentioned, begining at the
entrance of the river (viz) The Clatsop, Killamuck, Ne-cost, Nat-ti,
Nat-chies, Tarl-che, E-slitch, You-cone and So-see. secondly those
inhabiting the N. W. coast begining at the entrance of the river and
mentioned in the same order; the Chinnook and Chiltch the latter very
numerous; and thirdly the Cath-lah-mah, and Skil-lutes, the latter
numerous and inhabiting the river from a few miles above the marshey
Islands, where the Cuth-lahmahs cease, to the grand rappids. These last
may be esteemed the principal carryers or intermediate traders betwen the
whites and the Indians of the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-shurs, the
E-chee-lutes, and the Chil-luckkit-te quaws, who inhabit the river above,
to the grand falls inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish
which is brought to market. The bay in which this trade is carryed on is
spacious and commodious, and perfectly secure from all except the S. and
S. E. winds, these however are the most prevalent and strong winds in the
Winter season. fresh water and wood are very convenient and excellent
timber for refiting and reparing vessels.
[Clark, January 13, 1806]
Monday 13th January 1806 Capt. Lewis took all the men which Could be
Speared from the Fort and Set out in quest of the flesh of the Seven Elk
which were killed yesterday they found the meat all Secure untouched by
the Wolves, of which indeed there are but fiew in this Countrey; at 1 P.M.
the party returned with the 2d and Last load of meat to the fort. this
evening we finished all last of our Candles, we brought with us, but
fortunately had taken the precaution to bring with us moulds and wick, by
means of which and Some Elk tallow in our possession we do not think our
Selves distitute of this necessary article, the Elk which have been killed
have a verry Small portion of tallow. The Traders usially arrive in this
quarter, in the month of april, and remain until October; when here they
lay at anchor in a Bay within Cape Disapointment on the N. Side of the
river; here they are visited by the nativs in their Canoes who run along
Side and barter their Comodities with them, their being no houses or
fortification on Shore for that purpose.
The nations who repare thither ar first those of the Sea Coast S. E &
N W of the enterance of the river, who reside in the order in which their
names are mentioned to the S E. the Clat Sops, Kil-a-mox, and those to the
N W. the Chin nooks, and Chiltch; and Secondly the Cath-lah-mah,
War-ki-a-cum, and Skil-lutes, the latter noumerous and inhabiting those
last may be considered or intermedeate traders between the whites and
nations on the Sea Coast, and the E-ne-churs, the E-chee-lutes, and the
Chil-luck-kitte-quaws, who inhabit the river up to the great falls
inclusive, and who prepare most of the pounded fish which is brought to
Market.
The Bay in which the trade is Carried on is Spacious and Commodious, and
perfectly Secure from all except the S. & S E Winds and those blow but
Seldom the most prevalent & Strong winds are from the S W & N W in
the Winter Season. fish water and wood are very Convenient and excellent
timber for refitting and repareing vessels..
[Lewis, January 14, 1806]
Wednesday January 14th 1806. This morning the Sergt. of the Guard reported
the absence of one of the large perogues, it had broken the chord by which
it was attatched and the tide had taken it off; we sent a party
immediately in surch of her, they returned in about 3 hours having
fortunately found her. we now directed three of the perogues to be drawn
up out of reach of the tide and the fourth to be mored in the small branch
just above the landing and confined with a strong rope of Elk-skin. had we
lost this perogue also we should have been obliged to make three small
ones, which with the few tools we have now left would be a serious
undertaking. a fatiegue of 6 men employed in jerking the Elk beaf.
From the best estimate we were enabled to make as we dscended the Columbia
we conceived that the natives inhabiting that noble stream, for some miles
above the great falls to the grand rappids inclusive annually prepare
about 30,000 lbs. of pounded sammon for market. but whether this fish is
an article of commerce with the whites or is exclusively sold to and
consumed by the natives of the sea Coast, we are at a loss to determine.
the first of those positions I am disposed to credit most, but, still I
must confess that I cannot imagine what the white merchant's object can be
in purchasing this fish, or where they dispose of it. and on the other
hand the Indians in this neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes have an
abundance of dryed sammon which they take in the creeks and inlets, and I
have never seen any of this pounded fish in their lodges, which I pesume
would have been the case if they purchased this pounded fish for their own
consumption. the Indians who prepared this dryed and pounded fish,
informed us that it was to trade with the whites, and shewed us many
articles of European manufacture which they obtained for it. it is true
they obtain those articles principally for their fish but they trade with
the Skillutes for them and not immediately with the whites; the
intermediate merchants and carryers, the Skillutes, may possibly consume a
part of this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of it the natives
of the sea coast, and from them obtain such articles as they again trade
with the whites.
[Clark, January 14, 1806]
Tuesday 14th January 1806 This morning the Serjt. of the guard reported
the absence of one of our Canoes it had broken the Cord by which it was
attached and the tide had taken her off; we Sent a party imediately in
Serch of her, they returned in about 3 hours haveing fortunately found
her. we now derect that 3 of the canoes be drawed up out of reach of the
tide and the 4th to be tied with a long Strong Cord of Elk Skins, ready
for use. had we lost this large Canoe we Should have been obliged to make
3 other Small ones, which with the fiew tools we have now left would be a
Serious undertakeing. a fatiege of Six men employd in jurking the Elk
beef. From the best estermate we were enabled to make as we decended the
Columbia we Conceived that the nativs inhabiting that noble Stream (from
the enterance of Lewis's river to the neighbourhood of the falls the
nativs Consume all the fish they Catch either for food or fuel) From Tow
ar ne hi ooks River or a fiew mils above the Great falls to the grand
rapids inclusive anually prepare about 30,000 lbs of pounded fish (Chiefly
Salmon) for market, but whether this fish is an article of Commerce with
their neighbours or is exclusively Sold to, and Consumed by the nativs of
the Sea coast, we are at a loss to determine the latter of those positions
I am dispose to credit most, as I cannot imagine what the white merchents
objet Could be in purchaseing fish, or where they Could dispose of it. on
the other hand the Indians in this neighbourhood as well as the Skillutes
and those above have an abundance of Dryed Salmon which they take in the
Creeks and inlets. they are excessively fond of the pounded fish haveing
frequently asked us for Some of it-. the Indians who prepared this pounded
fish made Signs that they traded it with people below them for Beeds and
trinkets &c and Showed us maney articles of European manufacture which
they obtained for it; The Skillutes and Indians about the great rapids are
the intermediate merchants and Carryers, and no doubt Consume a part of
this fish themselves and dispose of the ballance of it to the nativs of
the Sea coast, and from this obtain Such articles as they again trade with
the whites.
The persons who usially visit the enterence of this river for the purpose
of traffic or hunting, I believe is either English or Americans; the
Indians inform us that they Speak the Same language with our Selves, and
gave us proofs of their varacity by repeating maney words of English, Sun
of a pitch &c. whether those traders are from Nootka Sound, from Some
other late establishment on this Coast, or imediately from the U States or
Great Brittain, I am at a loss to determine, nor Can the Indians inform
us. the Indians whome I have asked in what direction the traders go when
they depart from hence, allways point to the S. W. from which it is
prosumeable that Nootka cannot be their distination, and from Indian
information a majority of those traders annually visit them about the
beginning of April and remain Some time and either remain or revisit them
in the fall of which I cannot properly understand, from this Circumstance
they Cannot Come directly from the U States or Great Brittain, the
distance being to great for them to go and return in the ballance of a
year. I am Sometimes induced to believe that there is Some other
Establishment on the Coast of America South of this place of which little
is but yet known to the world, or it may be perhaps on Some Island in the
Pacific Ocian between the Continant of America & Asia to the S. W. of
us. This traffic on the part of the whites Consist in vending, guns,
principally old British or American Musquets, powder, balls and Shote,
brass tea kettles, Blankets from two to three points, Scarlet and blue
Cloth (Coarse), plates and Strips of Sheet Copper and brass, large brass
wire Knives Beeds &Tobacco with fishing hooks, buttons and Some other
Small articles; also a considerable quantity of Salors Clothes, as hats,
Coats, Trouses and Shirts. for those they receive in return from the
nativs Dressed and undressed Elk Skins, Skins of the Sea otter, Common
Otter, beaver, common fox, Speck, and tiger Cat, also Some Salmon dried or
pounded and a kind of buisket, which the nativs make of roots called by
them Shappelell. The nativs are extravigantly fond of the most Common
Cheap Blue and white beeds, of moderate Size, or Such that from 50 to 70
will way one pennyweight, the blue is usially prefured to the white; those
beeds Constitute the principal Circulating medium with all the Indian
tribes on this river; for those beeds they will dispose of any article
they possess-. the beeds are Strung on Straps of a fathom in length &
in that manner Sold by the breth or yard.
[Lewis, January 15, 1806]
Thursday January 15th 1806. Had a large coat completed out of the skins of
the Tiger Cat and those also of a small animal about the size of a
squirrel not known to me; these skins I procured from the Indians who had
previously dressed them and formed them into robes; it took seven of these
robes to complete the coat. we had determined to send out two hunting
parties today but it rained so incessantly that we posponed it. no
occurrence worthy of relation took place today.
The implyments used by the Chinnooks Clatsops Cuthlahmahs &c in
hunting are the gun the bow & arrow, deadfalls, pitts, snares, and
spears or gigs; their guns are usually of an inferior quality being oald
refuse American & brittish Musquits which have been repared for this
trade. there are some very good peices among them, but they are invariably
in bad order; they apear not to have been long enouh accustomed to fire
arms to understand the management of them. they have no rifles. Their guns
and amunition they reserve for the Elk, deer and bear, of the two last
however there are but few in their neighbourhood. they keep their powder
in small japaned tin flasks which they obtain with their amunition from
the traders; when they happen to have no ball or shot, they substitute
gravel or peices of potmettal, and are insensible of the damage done
thereby to their guns. The bow and arrow is the most common instrument
among them, every man being furnished with them whether he has a gun or
not; this instrument is imployed indiscriminately in hunting every species
of anamal on which they subsist. Their bows are extreamly neat and very
elastic, they are about two and a half feet in length, and two inches in
width in the center, thence tapering graduly to the extremities where they
are half an inch wide they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart of
the arbor vita or white cedar, the back of the bow being thickly covered
with sinews of the Elk laid on with a gleue which they make from the
sturgeon; the string is made of sinues of the Elk also. the arrow is
formed of two parts usually tho sometime entire; those formed of two parts
are unequally divided that part on which the feathers are placed occupyes
four fifths of it's length and is formed of light white pine reather
larger than a swan's quill, in the lower extremity of this is a circular
mortice secured by sinues roled arround it; this mortice receives the one
end of the 2nd part which is of a smaller size than the first and about
five inches long, in the end of this the barb is fixed and confined with
sinue, this barb is either stone, iron or copper, if metal in this form
forming at it's point a greater angle than those of any other Indians I
have observed. the shorter part of the arrow is of hearder wood as are
also the whole of the arrow when it is of one piece only. as these people
live in a country abounding in ponds lakes &c and frequently hunt in
their canoes and shoot at fowl and other anamals where the arrow missing
its object would be lost in the water they are constructed in the manner
just discribed in order to make them float should they fall in the water,
and consequently can again he recovered by the hunter; the quiver is
usually the skin of a young bear or that of a wolf invariably open at the
side in stead of the end as the quivers of other Indians generally are;
this construction appears to answer better for the canoe than if they were
open at the end only. maney of the Elk we have killed since we have been
here, have been wounded with these arrows, the short piece with the barb
remaining in the animal and grown up in the flesh. — the deadfalls and
snares are employed in taking the wolf the raccoon and fox of which there
are a few only. the spear or gig is used to take the sea otter, the common
otter, spuck, and beaver. their gig consists of two points or barbs and
are the same in their construction as those discribed before as being
common among the Indians on the upper part of this river. their pits are
employed in taking the Elk, and of course are large and deep, some of them
a cube of 12 or 14 feet. these are usually placed by the side of a large
fallen tree which as well as the pit lye across the toads frequented by
the Elk. these pitts are disguised with the slender boughs of trees and
moss; the unwary Elk in passing the tree precipitates himself into the
pitt which is sufficiently deep to prevent his escape, and is thus taken.
[Clark, January 15, 1806]
Friday 15th of January 1806 Capt. Lewis had a large Coat finished made of
the Skins of the tiger Cat, and those of the Small animal about the Size
of Small Cat not known to me; those Skins were precured from the Indians
who had previously dressed them and formed them into robes; it took Seven
of those robes to Complete the Coat. no occurrence worthey of remark took
place. rained hard all day. The imployments used by the Chinnooks
Clatsops, Cath lah mahs Kil a mox &c. in hunting are the gun the bow
& arrow, dead falls, Pitts, Snares, and Spears or gigs; their guns are
usially of an inferior quallity being old refuse american or brittish
muskets which have been repared for this trade there are Some verry good
pieces among them, but they are invariably in bad order they appear not to
be long enough acquainted with fire arms to understand the management of
them. They have no rifles. Their guns and amunition they reserve for the
Elk, Deer, and Bear, of the two last however there are but fiew in their
neighbourhoods. they keep their powder in Small japaned tin flasks which
they obtain with their amunition from the traders; when they happen to
have no Ball or Shot they Substitute Gravel and are insenceable of the
dammage done thereby to their Guns.
The Bow and arrow is the most common instrement among them, every man
being furnished with them whether he has a gun or not, this instrement is
imployed indiscreminately in hunting every Species of animal on which they
Subsist, Their bows are extreemly meet neat and very elastic, they are
about two feet Six inches long and two inches wide in the Center, thence
tapering gradually to the extremities, where they ar 3/4 of an Inch wide,
they are very flat and thin, formed of the heart of the arbor vita or
white Cedar, the back of the Bow being thickly Covered with Sinues of the
Elk laid on with a Gleue which they make from the Sturgeon; the String is
made of the Sinues of the Elk also, the arrow is formed of two parts
usually tho Sometimes entire; those formed of 2 parts are uneaquilly
devided, the part on which the feathers are placed occupie 4/5 of it's
length and is formed of light white pine rather larger than a Swans quill,
in the lower extremity of this is a Circular mortice Secured by Sinues
raped around it; this mortice recives the one end of the 2d part which is
of Smaller Size than the first and about five inches long, in the end of
this the barb is fixed and Confined with Sinues, the berb is either Iron
Copper or Stone — in this form forming at its point a greater angle
than those of any other Indians I have observed. The Shorter part of the
arrow is of harder wood, as are also the whole of the arrow where it is of
one piece only. as these people live in a Countrey abounding in Ponds
lakes &c. and frequently hunt in their Canoes and Shoot at fowls and
other animals where the arrow missing its object would be lost in the
water they are constructed in the Manner just discribed in order to make
them flote Should they fall in the water, and Consequently Can again be
recovered by the hunter; the quiver is useally the Skin of a young bear or
that of a wolf invariably open at the Side in Sted of the end, as the
quiver of other Indians generally are, this Construction appears to answer
better for the Canoe, than if they were open at the end only. maney of the
Elk which our hunters have killd. Sence we have been here have been
wounded with those arrows, the Short piece with the barbe remaining in the
Animal and grown up in the flesh. — the Deadfalls & Snares are
employd in takeing the Wolf, the racoon and fox of which there are a fiew.
the Spear or gig is used to take the Sea otter, Spuck, & Beaver. The
gig consists of two points or birbs and are the Same in their Construction
as those which are Common among the Indians on the upper part of this
river and before discribed. Their pitts are employed in takeing the Elk,
and of Course are large and Deep, Some of them a Cube of 12 or 14 feet,
those ar commonly placed by the Side of a large fallen tree which as well
as the pitt lie across the roads frequented by the Elk, these pitts are
disguised with the Slender bows of trees & moss; the unwarry Elk in
passing the tree precipates himself into the Pitt which is Sufficiently
deep to prevent his escape.
[Lewis, January 16, 1806]
Friday January 16th 1806. This evening we finished curing the meat. no
occurrence worthy of relation took place today. we have plenty of Elk beef
for the present and a little salt, our houses dry and comfortable, and
having made up our minds to remain until the 1st of April, every one
appears content with his situation and his fare. it is true that we could
even travel now on our return as far as the timbered country reaches, or
to the falls of the river; but further it would be madness for us to
attempt to proceede untill April, as the indians inform us that the snows
lye knee deep in the plains of Columbia during the winter, and in these
plains we could scarcely get as much fuel of any kind as would cook our
provision as we descended the river; and even were we happyly over these
plains and again in the woody country at the foot of the Rocky Mountains
we could not possibly pass that immence barrier of mountains on which the
snows ly in winter to the debth in many places of 20 feet; in short the
Indians inform us that they are impracticable untill about the 1st of
June, at which time even there is an abundance of snow but a scanty
subsistence may be obtained for the horses. — we should not therefore
forward ourselves on our homeward journey by reaching the rocky mountains
early than the 1st of June, which we can easily effect by seting out from
hence on the 1st of April.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the common streight net,
the scooping or diping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and
line. the common net is of different lengths and debths usually employed
in taking the sammon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the marshey
grounds and the mouths of deep creeks. the skiming or scooping net to take
small fish in the spring and summer season; the gig and hook are employed
indiscriminately at all seasons in taking such fish as they can procure by
their means. their nets and fishing lines are made of the silk-grass or
white cedar bark; and their hooks are generally of European manufactary,
tho before the whites visited them they made hooks of bone and other
substances formed in the following manner A C, and C. B. are two small
pieces of bone about the size of a strong twine, these are flattened and
leveled off of their extremities near C. where they are firmly attatched
together with sinues and covered with rosin. C A. is reduced to a sharp
point at A where it is also bent in a little; C B. is attatched to the
line, for about half it's length at the upper extremity B. the whole
forming two sides of an accute angled triangle.
[Clark, January 16, 1806]
Saturday 16th January 1806 This evening we finished cureing the meat. no
occurrence worthey of relation took place to day. we have a plenty of Elk
beef for the present and a little Salt, our houses dry and Comfortable,
haveing made up our minds to Stay untill the 1st of April every one
appears contented with his Situation, and his fair. it is true we Could
travel even now on our return as far as the timbered Country reaches, or
to the falls of the river, but further it would be madness for us to
attempt to proceed untill april, as the indians inform us that the Snows
lyes knee deep in the Columbian Plains dureing the winter, and in those
planes we could not git as much wood as would Cook our provisions untill
the drift wood comes down in the Spring and lodges on the Shore &c.
and even were we happily over those plains and in the woodey countrey at
the foot of the rockey mountains, we could not possibly pass that emence
bearier of mountains on which the Snow lyes in winter to the debth in
maney placs of 20 feet; in Short the Indians tell us they impassable
untill about the 1s of June, at which time even then is an abundance of
snow but a Scanty Subsistance may be had for the horses — we Should
not foward our homeward journey any by reaching the Rocky mountains
earlier than the 1st of June which we can effect by Setting out from hence
by the 1st of April
The Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. in fishing employ the Common Streight net,
the Scooping or dipping net with a long handle, the gig, and the hook and
line. the Common nets are of different lengths and debths usually employd
in takeing the Salmon, Carr and trout in the inlets among the marshey
grounds and the mouths of deep Creeks, — the Skiming or scooping nets
to take Smaller fish in the Spring and Summer Season; the gig and hook are
employed indiscreminately at all Seasons in takeing Such fish as they Can
precure by these means. their nets and fishing lines are made of the Silk
Grass or white Cedar bark; and their hooks are generally of European
manufactory, tho before the whites visited them they made their Hooks of
bone and other Substances formed in the following manner A C and B C are
two Small pieces of bone about the Size of a Strong twine, these are
flattened & beaveled off to their extremites at C, where they are
firmley attached together and Covered with rozin C A is reduced to a Sharp
point at A where it is also bent in a little; C B is attached to the line,
at the upper extremity B. the whole forming two Sides of an accute angled
triangle. the line has a loop at D which it is anexed to a longer line and
taken off at pleasure. Those Hooks are yet common among the nativs on the
upper parts of the Columbia river for to Catch fish in Deep places.
[Lewis, January 17, 1806]
Saturday January 17th 1806 This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7
of the Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening.
They brought with them some roots and buries for sale, of which however
they disposed of but very few as they asked for them such prices as our
stock in trade would not license us in giving. the Chief Comowool gave us
some roots and buries for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and
some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of making a skiming net.
one of the party was dressed in three very eligant Sea Otter skins which
we much wanted; for these we offered him many articles but he would not
dispose of them for any other consideration but blue beads, of these we
had only six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his price for each skin
he would not exchange nor would a knife or an equivalent in beads of any
other colour answer his purposes, these coarse blue beads are their
favorite merchandiz, and are called by them tia Commashuck or Chiefs
beads. the best wampum is not so much esteemed by them as the most
inferior beads. Sent Coalter out to hunt this morning, he shortly after
returned with a deer, venison is a rarity with us we have had none for
some weeks. Drewyer also set out on a hunting excertion and took one man
with him. he intends both to hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.
The Culinary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood consist of
wooden bowls or throughs, baskets, wooden spoons and woden scures or
spits. Their wooden bowls and troughs are of different forms and sizes,
and most generally dug out of a solid piece; they are ither round or simi
globular, in the form of a canoe, cubic, and cubic at top terminating in a
globe at bottom; these are extreemly well executed and many of them neatly
carved the larger vessels with hand-holes to them; in these vessels they
boil their fish or flesh by means of hot stones which they immerce in the
water with the article to be boiled. they also render the oil of fish or
other anamals in the same manner. their baskets are formed of cedar bark
and beargrass so closely interwoven with the fingers that they are
watertight without the aid of gum or rosin; some of these are highly
ornamented with strans of beargrass which they dye of several colours and
interweave in a great variety of figures; this serves them the double
perpose of holding their water or wearing on their heads; and are of
different capacites from that of the smallest cup to five or six gallons;
they are generally of a conic form or reather the segment of a cone of
which the smaller end forms the base or bottom of the basket. these they
make very expediciously and dispose off for a mear trifle. it is for the
construction of these baskets that the beargrass becomes an article of
traffic among the natives this grass grows only on their high mountains
near the snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2 feet
long smoth pliant and strong; the young blades which are white from not
being exposed to the sun or air, are those most commonly employed,
particularly in their neatest work. Their spoons are not remarkable nor
abundant, they are generally large and the bole brawd. their meat is
roasted with a sharp scure, one end of which is incerted in the meat with
the other is set erect in the ground. the spit for roasting fish has it's
upper extremity split, and between it's limbs the center of the fish is
inscerted with it's head downwards and the tale and extremities of the
scure secured with a string, the sides of the fish, which was in the first
instance split on the back, are expanded by means of small splinters of
wood which extend crosswise the fish. a small mat of rushes or flags is
the usual plate or dish on which their fish, flesh, roots or burries are
served. they make a number of bags and baskets not watertight of cedar
bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags and common coarse sedge. in these they
secure their dryed fish, rooots, buries, &c.
[Clark, January 17, 1806]
Sunday 17th January 1806 This morning we were visited by Comowool and 7 of
the Clatsops our nearest neighbours, who left us again in the evening.
They brought with them Some roots and beries for Sale, of which however
they disposed of very fiew as they asked for them Such prices as our Stock
in trade would not licence us in giveing. The Chief Comowool gave us Some
roots and berries, for which we gave him in return a mockerson awl and
Some thread; the latter he wished for the purpose of makeing a Skiming
Net. one of the party was dressed in three verry elegant Sea otter Skins
which we much wanted; for these we offered him maney articles but he would
not dispose of them for aney other Consideration but Blue beeds, of those
we had only Six fathoms left, which being 4 less than his price for each
Skin he would not exchange nor would a Knife or any other equivolent in
beeds of aney other Colour answer his purpose; these Coarse blue beeds are
their favourite merchandize and are Called by them Tia com ma shuck or
Chief beeds, the best Wampom is not as much esteemed by them as the most
indifferent beeds. Sent Colter out to hunt he Shortly after returned with
a Deer, Venison is a rarity with us we have had none for Some weeks.
Drewyer Set out on a hunting expedition one man went with him. he intends
to hunt the Elk and trap the beaver.
The Culianary articles of the Indians in our neighbourhood Consists of
wooden bowls or troughs, Baskets, Shell and wooden Spoons and wooden
Scures or Spits, their wooden Bowles and troughs are of different forms
and Sizes, and most generally dug out of Solid piecies; they are either
round, Square or in the form of a canoe; those are extreemly well executed
and maney of them neetly covered, the larger vessels with handholes to
them; in these vessels they boil their fish or flesh by means of hot
Stones which they immerce in the water with the articles to be boiled.
They also render the Oil of the fish, or other animals in the Same manner.
Their baskets are formed of Cedar bark and bargrass So closely interwoven
withe hands or fingers that they are watertight without the aid of gum or
rozin; Some of those are highly ornimented with the Straps of bargrass
which they dye of Several Colours and interweave in a great variety of
figures; this Serves a double purpose of holding the Water or wareing on
their heads; and are of different Capacities, from that of a Smallest Cup
to five or Six gallons, they are generally of a Conic form or reather the
Segment of a Cone of which the Smaller end forms the base or bottom of the
basket. these they make verry expediciously and dispose of for a mear
trifle. it is for the Construction of those baskets that Bargrass becoms
an article of traffic among the nativs of the Columbia. this grass grows
only on their mountains near the Snowey region; the blade is about 3/8 of
an inch wide and 2 feet long Smothe plient & Strong; the young blades
which are white from not being exposed to the Sun or air, are those which
are most Commonly employ'd, particularly in their neatest work. Their
wooden Spoons are not remarkable nor abundant, they are large & the
bowls broad. their meat is roasted with a Sharp Scure, one end of which is
incerted in the meat while the other is Set erect in the ground. The Spit
for roasting fish has its upper extremity Split, and between its limbs the
Center of the fish is incerted with its head downwards, and the tale and
the extremities of the Scure Secured with a String, the Side of the fish,
which was in the first instance Split in the back, are expanded by means
of Small Splinters of wood which extend Crosswise the fish. a Small mat of
rushes or flags is the usual plate, or Dish on which their fish, flesh,
roots & berries are Served. they make a number of Bags and Baskets not
water tight of Cedar bark Silk Grass, rushes, flags, and common Gorse
Sedge-. in those they Secure their dried fish, roots berries &.
[Lewis, January 18, 1806]
Sunday January 18th 1806. Two of the Clatsops who were here yesterday
returned today for a dog they had left; they remained with us a few hours
and departed. no further occurrence worthy of relation took place. the men
are still much engaged in dressing skins in order to cloath themselves and
prepare for our homeward journey. The Clatsops Chinnooks &c construct
their houses of timber altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide and
from 20 to 60 feet in length, and acommodate one or more families
sometimes three or four families reside in the same room. thes houses are
also divided by a partition of boards, but this happens only in the
largest houses as the rooms are always large compared with the number of
inhabitants. these houses are constructed in the following manner; two or
more posts of split timber agreeably to the number of divisions or
partitions are furst provided, these are sunk in the ground at one end and
rise perpendicularly to the hight of 14 or 18 feet, the tops of them are
hollowed in such manner as to receive the ends of a round beam of timber
which reaches from one to the other, most commonly the whole length of the
building, and forming the upper part of the roof; two other sets of posts
and poles are now placed at proper distances on either side of the first,
formed in a similar manner and parrallel to it; these last rise to the
intended hight of the eves, which is usually about 5 feet. smaller sticks
of timber are now provided and are placed by pares in the form of rafters,
resting on, and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontal beam, to
both of which they are attatched at either end with the cedar bark; two or
three ranges of small poles are now placed horizontally on these rafters
on each side of the roof and are secured likewise with strings of the
Cedar bark. the ends sides and partitions are then formed with one range
of wide boards of abut two inches thick, which are sunk in the ground a
small distance at their lower ends and stand erect with their upper ends
Taping on the outside of the eve poles and end rafters to which they are
secured by an outer pole lying parallel with the eve poles and rafters
being secured to them by chords of cedar bark which pass through wholes
made in the boards at certain distances for that purpose; the rough roof
is then covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2
by 3 feet left in the center of the roof to permit the smoke to pass.
these houses are sometimes sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which cace
the eve of the house comes nearly to the surface of the earth. in the
center of each room a space of six by eight feet square is sunk about
twelve inches lower than the floor having it's sides secured with four
sticks of squar timber, in this space they make their fire, their fuel
being generally pine bark. mats are spread arround the fire on all sides,
on these they set in the day and frequently sleep at night. on the inner
side of the hose on two sides and sometimes on three, there is a range of
upright peices about 4 feet removed from the wall; these are also sunk in
the ground at their lower ends, and secured at top to the rafters, from
these other peices ar extended horizontally to the wall and are secured in
the usual method by bark to the upright peices which support the eve
poles. on these short horizontal pieces of which there are sometimes two
ranges one above the other, boards are laid, which either form ther beads,
or shelves on which to put their goods and chattles of almost every
discription. their uncured fish is hung on sticks in the smoke of their
fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when they happen to be fortunate
enough to procure it which is but seldom.
[Clark, January 18, 1806]
Monday 18th January 1806 Two of the Clatsops that were here yesterday
returned to day for a Dog they had left; they remained with us a fiew
hours and departed. no further accounts worthey of relation took place.
the men are much engaged dressing Skins in order to Cloath themselves and
prepare for the homeward journey.
The Clatsops Chinnooks &c. construct their Houses of timber
altogether. they are from 14 to 20 feet wide, and from 20 to 60 feet in
length, and accomodate one or more families Sometimes three or four
families reside in the Same room. this house is also devided by petitions
of Boards, but this happens only in the largest houses, as the rooms are
always large Compared with the number of inhabitents. those houses are
Constructed in the following manner; two or more posts of Split timber
agreeably to the number of devisions or partitions are first provided,
these are Sunk in the ground at one end and raised pirpindicular to the
hight of 12 or 14 feet, the top of them are hollowed So as to recive the
end of a round beem of timber which reaches from one to the other or the
entire length of the house; and forming the ridge pole; two other Sets of
posts and poles are then placed at proper distancies on either Side of the
first, formed in a Similar manner and parrelal to it; those last rise to
the intended hight of the eves, which is usially about 5 feet, — Smaller
Sticks of timber is then previded and are placed by pears in the form of
rafters, resting on, and reaching from the lower to the upper horizontial
beam, to both of which they are atached at either end with the Cedar bark;
two or 3 ranges of Small poles are then placed Horizontially on these
rafters on each Side of the roof & are Secured likewise with Cedar
bark. the ends, Sides, and partitions are then formed, with one range of
wide boards of about 2 inches thick, which are Sunk in the ground a Small
distance at their lower ends & Stands erect with their upper ends
lapping on the out Side of the eve poles and end rafters to which they are
Secured by a outer pole lyeing parrelal with the eve pole and rafters
being Secured to them by Cords of Cedar bark which pass through wholes
made in the bods at Certain distances for that purpose; the rough roof is
then Covered with a double range of thin boards, and an aperture of 2 by 3
feet left in the Center of the roof to admit the Smoke to pass. These
houses are commonly Sunk to the debth of 4 or 5 feet in which Case the eve
of the house comes nearly to the Surface of the earth. in the Center of
each room a Space of from 6 by 8 feet is Sunk about 12 inches lower than
the Hoar haveing its Sides Secured by four thick boards or Squar pieces of
timber, in this Space they make their fire, their fuel being generally dry
pine Split Small which they perform with a peice of an Elks horn Sharpened
at one end drove into the wood with a Stone. mats are Spred around the
fire on all Sides, on these they Sit in the day and frequently Sleep at
night. on the inner Side of the house on two Sides and Sometimes on three,
there is a range of upright pieces about 4 feet removed from the wall;
these are also Sunk in the ground at their lower end, and Secured at top
to the rafters, from those, other pieces are extended horozontially to the
wall and are Secured in the usial manner with bark to the upright pieces
which Support the eve pole. on these Short horizontial peics of which
there are Sometimes two ranges one above the other, boards are laid, which
either form their beads, or Shelves on which to put their goods and
Chattles, of almost every discription. their uncured fish is hung on
Sticks in the Smoke of their fires as is also the flesh of the Elk when
they happen to be fortunate enough to precure it which is but Seldom
[Lewis, January 19, 1806]
Monday January 19th 1806. This morning sent out two parties of hunters,
consisting of Collins and Willard whom we sent down the bay towards point
Adams, and Labuish and Shannon whom we sent up Fort River; the fist by
land and the latter by water. we were visited today by two Clatsop men and
a woman who brought for sale some Sea Otter skins of which we purchased
one, giving in exchange the remainder of our blue beads consisting of 6
fathoms and about the same quantity of small white beads and a knife. we
also purchased a small quantity of train oil for a pair of Brass armbands
and a hat for some fishinghooks. these hats are of their own manufactory
and are composed of Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven with the fingers
and ornimented with various colours and figures, they are nearly
waterproof, light, and I am convinced are much more durable than either
chip or straw. These hats form a small article of traffic with the
Clatsops and Chinnooks who dispose of them to the whites. the form of the
hat is that which was in vogue in the Ued States and great Britain in the
years 1800 & 1801 with a high crown reather larger at the top than
where it joins the brim; the brim narrow or about 2 or 21/2 inches.
Several families of these people usually reside together in the same room;
they appear to be the father & mother and their sons with their son's
wives and children; their provision seems to be in common and the greatest
harmoney appears to exist among them. The old man is not always rispected
as the head of the family, that duty most commonly devolves on one of the
young men. They have seldom more than one wife, yet the plurality of wives
is not denyed them by their customs. These families when ascociated form
nations or bands of nations each acknoledging the authority of it's own
chieftain who dose not appear to be heriditary, nor his power to extend
further than a mear repremand for any improper act of an individual; the
creation of a chief depends upon the upright deportment of the individual
& his ability and disposition to render service to the community; and
his authority or the deference paid him is in exact equilibrio with the
popularity or voluntary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of
his band or nation. Their laws like those of all uncivilized Indians
consist of a set of customs which have grown out of their local
situations. not being able to speak their language we have not been able
to inform ourselves of the existence of any peculiar customs among them.
[Clark, January 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of January 1806 This morning Sent out two parties of hunters,
one party towards Point adams and the other party up Ne tel River by
water. we were visited to day by two Clatsop men and a woman who brought
for Sale Some Sea otter Skins of which we purchased one gave in exchange
the remainder of our blue heeds Consisting of 6 fathoms, and the Same
quantity of Small white beids and a knife. we also purchased a Small
quantity of train oil for a par of Brass arm bands, and a hat for Som
fishinghooks. these hats are of their own manufactory and are Composed of
Cedar bark and bear grass interwoven with the fingers and ornimented with
various Colours and figures, they are nearly water proof, light, and I am
Convinced are much more dureable than either Chip or Straw, — These
hats form a article of traffic with Clatsops an Chinnooks who dispose of
them to the whites, the form of the Hats is that which was in voge in the
U States and Great Britain in 1800 & 1801 with a high Crown rather
larger at the top than where it joins the brim, the brim narrow about 2 or
21/2 inches.
Several families of those people usially reside together in the Same room;
they appear to be the father mother with their Sons and their Sons wives
and children; their provisions appears to be in common and the greatest
harmoney appears to exist among them. the old man is not always respected
as the head of the family that duty generally devolves on one of the young
men. They have Sildom more than one wife, yet plurality of wives are not
denyed them by their Customs. those families when associated form bands of
nations each acknowledgeing the authority of its own Chieftains, who does
not appear to be herititary, or has power to extend further than a mear
repremand for any improper deportment of the indevidual; the Creation of a
Chief depends upon the upright Conduct of the individual his abiltity and
disposition to render Service to the Comunity, and his authority and the
defference paid him is in extent equilibrio with the popolarity or
volintary esteem he has acquired among the individuals of his band, or
nation. Their Laws like all uncivilized Indians Consist of a Set of
customs which has grown out of their local Situations. not being able to
Speak their language we have not been able to inform ourselves of the
existance of any peculiar Customs among them.
[Lewis, January 20, 1806]
Tuesday January 20th 1806. Visited this morning by three Clatsops who
remained with us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to smoke the
pipe. on the morning of the eighteenth we issued 6 lbs. of jirked Elk pr.
man, this evening the Sergt. repoted that it was all exhausted; the six
lbs. have therefore lasted two days and a half only. at this rate our
seven Elk will last us only 3 days longer, yet no one seems much concerned
about the state of the stores; so much for habit. we have latterly so
frequently had our stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and sometimes
taken a small touch of fasting that three days full allowance excites no
concern. In those cases our skill as hunters afford us some consolation,
for if there is any game of any discription in our neighbourhood we can
track it up and kill it. most of the party have become very expert with
the rifle. The Indians who visited us today understood us sufficiently to
inform us that the whites did not barter for the pounded fish; that it was
purchased and consumed by the Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmah's and
Skillutes. The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of the
subsistence of the indians in our neighbourhood are those of a species of
Thistle, fern and rush; the Liquorice, and a small celindric root the top
of which I have not yet seen, this last resembles the sweet pittatoe very
much in it's flavor and consistency.
[Clark, January 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th January 1806 Visited this morning by three Clapsots who
remained with us all day; the object of their visit is mearly to Smoke the
pipe. on the morning of the 18 inst. we issued 6 wt. of jurked meat pr.
man, this evening the Serjt. reports that is all exhosted; the 6 w. have
therefore lasted 2 days and a half only. at this rate our Seven Elk will
only last us 3 days longer, yet no one appears much concerned about the
State of the Stores; So much for habet. we have latterly so frequently had
our Stock of provisions reduced to a minimum and Sometimes taken a Small
tuck of fasting that 3 days full allowance exites no concern. In those
Cases our Skill as hunters affords us Some Consolation, for if there is
any game of any discription in our neighbourhood we can track it up and
kill it. most of the party have become very expert with the rifle. The
Indians who visit us to day understood us Sufficiently to inform us that
the white who visit them did not barter for the pounded fish; that it was
purchased and Consumed by the Clatsops, Chin nooks, Cath lah mahs and Skil
lutes, and Kil a moxs.
The native roots which furnish a considerable proportion of the
Subsistance of the indians in our neighbourhoodd are those of a Species of
Thistle, fern, and rush; the Licquorice, and a Small celindric root the
top of which I have not yet Seen, this last resembles the Sweet potato
verry much in its flavour and Consistency.
[Lewis, January 21, 1806]
Wednesday January 21st 1806. Two of the hunters Shannon & Labuish
returned having killed three Elk. Ordered a party to go in quest of the
meat early tomorrow morning and the hunters to return and continue the
chase. the Indians left us about 12 O'Clk. The root of the thistle, called
by the natives shan-ne-tahque is a perpendicular fusiform and possesses
from two to four radicles; is from 9 to 15 Inces in length and about the
size a mans thumb; the rhind somewhat rough and of a brown colour; the
consistence when first taken from the earth is white and nearly as crisp
as a carrot; when prepared for uce by the same process before discribed of
the white bulb or pashshequo quawmash, it becomes black, and is more
shugary than any fuit or root that I have met with in uce among the
natives; the sweet is precisely that of the sugar in flavor; this root is
sometimes eaten also when first taken from the ground without any
preperation; but in this way is vastly in-ferior. it delights most in a
deep rich dry lome which has a good mixture of sand. the stem of this
plant is simple ascending celindric and hisped. the root leaves yet
possess their virdure and are about half grown of a plale green. the
cauline leaf as well as the stem of the last season are now dead, but in
rispect to it's form &c. it is simple, crenate, & oblong, reather
more obtuse at it's apex than at the base or insertion; it's margin armed
with prickles while it's disks are hairy, it's insertion decurrent and
position declining. the flower is also dry and mutilad. the pericarp seems
much like that of the common thistle. it rises to the hight of from 3 to 4
feet.
[Clark, January 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st of January 1806 Two of the hunters Shannon & Labieche
returned haveing killed three Elk, ordered a party to go in quest of the
meat early tomorrow morning and the hunters to return and continue the
chase-. the Indians left us about 12 oClock.
The root of the thistle called by the nativs Chan-ne-tak-que is
pirpendicular and possesses from two to 4 radicles; is from 9 to 15 inches
in length and is Commonly about the Size of a mans thum the rhine Somewhat
rough and of a brown Colour; the Consistence when first taken from the
earth is white and nearly as Crisp as a Carrot, when prepared for use by
the Same process before discribed of the white bulb or gash she quo,
qua-mosh, it becomes black and is more Sugary than any root I have met
with among the nativs; the Sweet is prosisely that of the Sugar in flavor,
this root is Sometimes eaten when first taken from the ground without any
preperation, in this way it is well tasted but soon weathers and becoms
hard and insipped. it delights most in a deep rich moist lome which has a
good mixture of Sand — The Stems of this plant is Simple ascending
celindric and hisped. the root leaves, posses their virdue and are about
half grown of a deep Green. the Cauline leaf as well as the Stem of the
last Season are now dead, but in respect to it's form &c. it is Simple
Crenated and oblong, rather more obtuce at it's apex than the base or
insertion, it's margin armed with prickles while it's disks are hairy, its
insertion decurrent and position declineing. the flower is also dry and
mutilated the pericarp seems much like that of the Common thistle it rises
to the hight of from 3 to 4 feet.
[Lewis, January 22, 1806]
Thursday January 22nd 1806. The party sent for the meat this morning
returned with it in the Evening; it was in very inferior order, in short
the animals were poor. Reubin Fields also remained with the other hunters
Shannon & Labuish our late supply of salt is out. we have not yet
heared a sentence from the other two parties of hunter's who are below us
towards Point Adams and the Praries.
There are three species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of
which the natves eat; this grows very abundant in the open uplands and
praries where the latter are not sandy and consist of deep loose rich
black lome. the root is horizontal sometimes a little deverging or
obliquely descending, frequently dividing itself as it procedes into two
equal branches and shooting up a number of stems; it lies about 4 Inces
beneath the surface of the earth. the root is celindric, with few or no
radicles and from the size of a goose quill to that of a man's finger; the
center of the root is divided into two equal parts by a strong flat &
white ligament like a piece of thin tape on either side of this there is a
white substance which when the root is roasted in the embers is much like
wheat dough and not very unlike it in flavour, though it has also a
pungency which becomes more visible after you have chewed it some little
time; this pungency was disagreeable to me, but the natives eat it very
voraciously and I have no doubt but it is a very nutricious food. the bark
of the root is black, somewhat rough, thin and brittle, it easily
seperates in flakes from the part which is eaten as dose also the internal
liggament. this root perennil. in rich lands this plant rises to the hight
of from 4 to five feet. the stem is smooth celindric, slightly groved on
one side erect about half it's hight on the 2 first branches thence
reclining backwards from the grooved side; it puts forth it's branches
which are in reallyty long footstalks by pares from one side only and near
the edges of the groove, these larger footstalks are also grooved
cilindric and gradually tapering towards the extremity, puting forth
alternate footstalks on either side of the grove near it's edge; these
lesser footstalks the same in form as the first put forth from forty to
fifty alternate pinate leaves which are sessile, horizontal, multipartite
for half their length from the point of insertion and terminating in a
long shaped apex, and are also revolute with the upper disk smoth and the
lower slightly cottanny. these alternate leaves after proceeding half the
length of the footstalk cease to be partite and assume the tongue like
form altogether. this plant produces no flower or fruit whatever, is of a
fine green colour in summer and a beautiful) plant. the top is annual and
is of course dead at present.
[Clark, January 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd January 1806 The party Sent for the meat this morning returned
with it in the evening; it was in verry inferior order, in Short the
animals were pore. Rieuben Field Shannon and Labiech remained in the woods
to hunt. our late Supply of Salt is out. we have not heard a word of the
other hunters who are below us towards point adams and the Praries. Some
rain this day at intervales
There are three Species of fern in this neighbourhood the root one of
which the nativs eate; that of which the nativs eate produce no flowers
whatever or fruit of a fine green Colour and the top is annual, and in
Course dead at present.
I observe no difference between the licorice of this Countrey and that
Common to maney parts of the United States where it is sometimes
Cultivated in our gardins-. this plant delights in a deep lose Sandy Soil;
here it grows verry abundant and large; the nativs roste it in the embers
and pound it Slightly with a Small Stick in order to make it Seperate more
readily from the Strong liggaments which forms the center of the root;
this they discard and chew and Swallow the ballance of the root; this last
is filled with a number of thin membrencies like network, too tough to be
masticated and which I find it necessary also to discard. This root when
roasted possesses an agreeable flavour not unlike the Sweet potato. The
root of the thistle (described yesterday) after undergoing the process of
Sweting or bakeing in a kiln is Sometimes eaten with the train oil also,
at other times pounded fine and mixed with Cold water, untill reduced to
the Consistancy of Gruel; in this way I think it verry agreeable. but the
most valuable of all their roots is foreign to this neighbourhood I mean
the Wappetoe.
The Wappetoe, or bulb of the Sagitifolia or common arrow head, which grows
in great abundance in the marshey grounds of that butifull and fertile
vally on the Columbia commenceing just above the quick Sand River and
extending downwards for about 70 miles. this bulb forms a principal
article of trafic between the inhabitents of the vally and those of their
neighbourhood or Sea coast.
[Lewis, January 23, 1806]
Friday January 23rd 1806. This morning dispatched Howard and Warner to the
Camp of the Saltmakes for a supply of salt. The men of the garison are
still busily employed in dressing Elk's skins for cloathing, they find
great difficulty for the want of branes; we have not soap to supply the
deficiency, nor can we procure ashes to make the lye; none of the pines
which we use for fuel affords any ashes; extrawdinary as it may seem, the
greene wood is consoomed without leaving the residium of a particle of
ashes.
The root of the rush used by the natives is a sollid bulb about one inch
in length and usually as thick as a man's thumb, of an ovate form
depressed on two or more sides, covered with a thin smothe black rind. the
pulp is white brittle and easily masticated either raw or roasted the
latter is the way in which it is most usually prepared for uce. this root
is reather insipid in point of flavour, it grows in greatest abundance
along the sea coast in the sandy grounds and is most used by the
Killamucks and those inhabiting the coast. each root sends up one stock
only which is annual, the root being perenniel. the bulb is attatched to
the bottom of the caulis or stem by a firm small and strong radicle of
about one Inch long; this radicle is mearly the prolongation of the caulis
and decends perpendicilarly; a little above the junction of this radicle
with the caulis, the latter is surrounded in a whorl with a set of small
radicles from 6 to 9 inches long which are obliquely descending. the
caulis is celindric erect hollow and jointed, and is about the size or
reather larger than the largest quill. it rises to the hight of 3 or 4
feet, not branching nor dose it either bear flower or seed that I can
discover tho I am far from denying that it dose so sometimes, but I have
not been able to discover it. the stem is rough like the sand rush and is
much like it when green or in it's succulent state. at each joint it puts
out from twenty to thirty long lineal stellate or radiate & horizontal
leaves which surround the stem. above each joint about half an inch the
stem is sheathed like the sand rush.
[Clark, January 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd of January 1806 This morning dispatched Howard & Werner
to the Camp of the Salt makers for a Supply of Salt. the men of the
garrison are Still busily employed in dressing Elk Skins for cloathing,
they fine great dificuelty for the want of branes; we have not Soap to
Supply the deficiency, nor can we precure ashes to make the lye; none of
the pine which we use for fuel afford any ashes; extrawdinary as it may
seem, the green wood is cosumed without leaveing the risideum of a
particle of ashes.
The root of the rush used by the nativs is a Solid bulb about one inch in
length and usially as thick as a mans thumb, of an ovel form depressed on
two or more Sides, covered with a thin black rine. the pulp is white
brittle and easily masticated either raw or rosted, the latter is the way
it is most commonly prepared for use. this root is reather insippid in
point of flavour, it grows in the Greatest abundance along the Sea coast
in the wet Sandy grounds and is most used by the Kil a mox and those
inhabiting the Sea coast. each root Sends up its Stalk which is annual,
the root being perennial. the bulb is atached to the bottom of the Stem by
a firm Small and Strong radicle which is mearly the prolongation of the
Stem which is hollow and jointed and is rather larger than the largest
quill. it rises to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, not branching no does it
either bear flower or Seed that I could discover tho I am far from denying
that it does So Sometimes, and perhaps every year, but I have not been
able to discover it, the Stem is rough like the Sand rush, and it's much
like it when green, at each joint it puts out from 20 to 30 radiate &
horizontal leaves which Surrounds the Stem. above each joint about half an
inch the Stem is Shethed like the Sand rush.
The instruments used by the nativs in digging their roots is a Strong
Stick of three feet and a half long Sharpened at the lower end and its
upper inserted into a part of an Elks or buck's horn which Serves as a
handle; Standing transvirsely in the Stick — or it is in this form as
thus A is the lower part which is a little hooked B is the upper part or
handle of Horn.
[Lewis, January 24, 1806]
Saturday January 24th 1806. Drewyer and Baptiest La Paage returned this
morning in a large Canoe with Comowooll and six Clatsops. they brought two
deer and the flesh of three Elk & one Elk's skin, having given the
flesh of one other Elk which they killed and three Elk's skins to the
Indians as the price of their assistance in transporting the ballance of
the meat to the Fort; these Elk and deer were killed near point Adams and
the Indians carryed them on their backs about six miles, before the waves
were sufficiently low to permit their being taken on board their canoes.
the Indians remained with us all day. The Indians witnissed Drewyer's
shooting some of those Elk, which has given them a very exalted opinion of
us as marksmen and the superior excellence of our rifles compared with
their guns; this may probably be of service to us, as it will deter them
from any acts of hostility if they have ever meditated any such. My
Air-gun also astonishes them very much, they cannot comprehend it's
shooting so often and without powder; and think that it is great medicine
which comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
I observe no difference between the liquorice of this country and that
common to many parts of the United states where it is also sometimes
cultivated in our gardens. this plant delights in a deep loose sandy soil;
here it grows very abundant and large; the natives roast it in the embers
and pound it slightly with a small stick in order to make it seperate more
readily from the strong liggament which forms the center of the root; this
the natives discard and chew and swallow the ballance of the root; this
last is filled with a number of thin membrenacious lamela like net work,
too tough to be masticated and which I find it necessary also to discard.
this root when roasted possesses an agreeable flavour not unlike the sweet
pittaitoe. beside the small celindric root mentioned on the 20th inst.,
they have also another about the same form size and appearance which they
use much with the train oil, this root is usually boiled; to me it
possesses a disagreeable bitterness. the top of this plant I have never
yet seen. The root of the thistle after undergoing the prossess of
sweating or baking in a kiln is sometimes eaten with the train oil also,
and at other times pounded fine and mixed with could water untill reduced
to the consistency of sagamity or indian mush; in this way I think it very
agreeable. but the most valuable of all their roots is foreign to this
neighbourhood I mean the Wappetoe, or the bulb of the Sagitifolia or
common arrow head, which grows in great abundance in the marshey grounds
of that beatifull and firtile valley on the Columbia commencing just above
the entrance of Quicksand River, and extending downwards for about 70
Miles. this bulb forms a principal article of traffic between the
inhabitants of the valley and those of this neighbourhood or sea coast.
The instrument used by the natives in diging their roots is a strong stick
of 31/2 feet long sharpened at the lower end and it's upper inscerted into
a part of an Elks or buck's horn which serves as a handle, standing
transversely with the stick or it is in this form A the lower point, B the
upper part or handle.
[Clark, January 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th of January 1806 Drewyer and Bapteist laPage returned this
morning in a large Canoe with Commowol and six Clatsops. they brought two
Deer and three Elk and one elk Skin, haveing given the flesh of one other
Elk they killed and three Elk skins to the Indians as the price of their
assistance in transporting the ballance of the meat to the Fort; these
Deer and Elk were killed near pt. Adams and those Indians Carried them on
their Backs near 4 miles, before the waves were Sufficiently low to permit
their being taken on board their Canoes. The indians remain'd with us all
day. The Clapsots witnessed Drewyers Shooting Some of those Elk, which has
given them a very exolted opinion of us as marksmen and the Superior
excellency of our rifles Compared with their guns; this may probably be of
service to us, as it will deter them from any acts of hostility if they
have ever meditated any such.
our air gun also astonishes them very much, they Cannot Comprehend its
Shooting So often and without powder, and think that it is great medison
which Comprehends every thing that is to them incomprehensible.
The nativs of this neighbourhood ware no further Covering than a light
roabe, their feet legs & every other part exposed to the frost Snow
& ice &c.
[Lewis, January 25, 1806]
Sunday January 25th 1806. Commowooll and the Clatsops departed early this
morning. At meridian Colter returned and repoted that his comrade hunter
Willard had continued his hunt from point Adams towards the salt makers;
and that they had killed only those two deer which the Indians brought
yesterday. In the evening Collins one of the saltmakers returned and
reported that they had mad about one bushel of salt & that himself and
two others had hunted from the salt camp for five days without killing any
thing and they had been obliged to subsist on some whale which they
procured from the natives.
The native fruits and buries in uce among the Indians of this
neighbourhood are a deep purple burry about the size of a small cherry
called by them Shal-lun, a small pale red bury called Sol'-me; the vineing
or low Crambury, a light brown bury reather larger and much the shape of
the black haw; and a scarlet bury about the size of a small cherry the
plant called by the Canadin Engages of the N. W. sac a commis produces
this bury; this plant is so called from the circumstance of the Clerks of
those trading companies carrying the leaves of this plant in a small bag
for the purpose of smokeing of which they are excessively fond. the
Indians call this bury ____
I have lately learned that the natives whome I have heretofore named as
distinct nations, living on the sea coast S. E. of the Killamucks, are
only bands of that numerous nation, which continues to extend itself much
further on that coast than I have enumerated them, but of the particular
appellations of those distant bands I have not yet been enabled to inform
myself; their language also is somewhat different from the Clatsops
Chinnooks and Cathlahmahs; but I have not yet obtaind a vocabulary which I
shall do the first oportunity which offers.
[Clark, January 25, 1806]
Monday 25th of January 1806 Commowol and the Clatsops departed early this
morning. Colter returned and reported that his comrade hunter Willard had
Continued his hunt from Point Adams towards the Saltmakers; and that they
had killed only those two deer which the indians brought yesterday; in the
evening Collins one of the Saltmakers returned and reported that they had
made about one bushel of Salt and that himself and two others had hunted
from the Salt Camp for five days without killing any thing and they had
been obliged to Subsist on Some whale which they purchased from the
nativs-.
The native fruits and berries in use among the Indians of this
neighbourhood are a Deep purple about the Size of a Small cherry called by
them Shal lun, a Small pale red berry called Sol me; the vineing or low
brown berry, a light brown berry rather larger and much the Shape of a
black haw; and a Scarlet berry about the Size of a Small Chirry the plant
Called by the Canadian Engages of the N. W. Sac a commis produces this
berry; this plant is So Called from the circumstances of the Clerks of
these tradeing Companies Carrying the leaves of this plant in a Small bag
for the purpose of Smokeing of which they are excessively fond the Indians
Call this berry ____
[Lewis, January 26, 1806]
Monday January 26th 1806. Werner and Howard who were sent for salt on the
23rd have not yet returned, we are apprehensive that they have missed
their way; neither of them are very good woodsmen, and this thick heavy
timbered pine country added to the constant cloudy weather makes it
difficult for even a good woodsman to steer for any considerable distance
the course he wishes. we ordered Collins to return early in the morning
and rejoin the salt makers, and gave him some small articles of
merchandize to purchase provisions from the Indians, in the event of their
still being unfortunate in the chase. The Shallun or deep purple berry is
in form much like the huckkleberry and terminates bluntly with a kind of
cap or cover at the end like that fruit; they are attatched seperately to
the sides of the boughs of the shrub by a very short stem hanging
underneath the same and are frequently placed very near each other on the
same bough; it is a full bearer. the berry is easily geathered as it
seperates from the bough readily, while the leaf is strongly affixed. the
shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet
sometimes grows on the high lands but moste generally in the swampy or
marshey grounds; it is an evergreen. the stem or trunk is from three to 10
Inches in circumference irregularly and much branched, seldom more than
one steem proceding from the same root, tho they are frequently associated
very thickly. the bark is somewhat rough and of a redish brown colour. the
wood is very firm and hard. the leaves are alternate declining and
attatched by a short fotstalk to the two horizontal sides of the boughs;
the form is a long oval, reather more accute towards its apex than at the
point of insertion; it's margin slightly serrate, it's sides colapsing or
partially foalding upwards or channelled; it is also thick firm smothe and
glossey, the upper surface of a fine deep green, while the under disk is
of a pale or whiteish green. this shrub retains it's virdure very
perfectly during the winter and is a beautifull shrub. — the natives
either eat these berrys when ripe immediately from the bushes or dryed in
the sun or by means of their sweating kilns; very frequently they pound
them and bake then in large loaves of 10 or fifteen pounds; this bread
keeps very well during one season and retains the moist jeucies of the
fruit much better than by any other method of preservation. this bread is
broken and stired in could water until it be sufficiently thick and then
eaten; in this way the natives most generally use it.
[Clark, January 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of January 1806 We order Collins to return early in the
morning and join the Salt makers, and gave him Some Small articles of
merchendize to purchase Some provisions from the indians in the event of
their Still being unfortunate in the chase.
The or deep purple berry is in form much like the huckleberry and
termonate bluntly with a kind of Cap or cover at the end like that fruit;
they are attached Seperately to the Sides of the boughes of the shrub by a
very Short Stem ganging under neath the Same, and are frequently placed
verry near each other on the Same bough it is a full bearer; the berry is
easily gathered as it Seperates from the bough, readily, while the leaf is
Strongly affixed. the Shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight
of 6 or 8 feet Sometimes grows on high lands but most frequently in Swampy
or marshey grounds; it is an ever green. the Stem or trunk is from 3 to 10
inches in circumferance irrigularly and much branched, Seldom more than
one Stem proceeding from the Same root, tho they are frequently associated
very thickly. the bark is Somewhat rough and of a redish brown Colour. the
wood is very firm and hard. the leaves are alternate declining and attachd
by a Short fotstalk to the two horozontal Sides of the bough's; the form
is a long oval, reather more accute towards its apex that at the point of
insertion; it's Sides partially folding upwards; or Channeled, it is also
thick Smothe and glossy, the upper Surfice of a fine deep green, while the
under disk is of a pale or whiteish green. this Shrub retains its verdure
verry perfectly dureing the winter and is a butifull Shrub-. the nativs
either eate those berries ripe imediately from the bushes, or dried in the
Sun or by means of the Swetting kiln; verry frequently they pound them and
bake them in large loaves 10 or 15 pounds weight; this bread keeps verry
well dureing one Season and retains the moist jouicies of the frute much
better than any other method of preperation. The bread is broken and
Stured in Coald water untill it be Sufficiently thick and then eaten, in
this way the nativ's most generally use it-..
[Lewis, January 27, 1806]
Tuesday January 27th 1806. This morning Collins set out for the Salt
works. in the evening Shannon returned and reported that himself and party
had killed ten Elk. he left Labuche and R. fields with the Elk. two of
those Elk he informed us were at the distance of nine miles from this
place near the top of a mountain, that the rout by which they mus be
brought was at least four miles by land through a country almost
inaccessible from the fallen timber, brush and sink-holes, which were now
disgused by the snow; we therefore concluded to relinquish those two Elk
for the present, and ordered every man who could be speared from the fort
to go early in the morning in surch of the other eight.
Goodrich has recovered from the Louis veneri which he contracted from an
amorous contact with a Chinnook damsel. I cured him as I did Gibson last
winter by the uce of murcury. I cannot learn that the Indians have any
simples which are sovereign specifics in the cure of this disease; and
indeed I doubt very much wheter any of them have any means of effecting a
perfect cure. when once this disorder is contracted by them it continues
with them during life; but always ends in decipitude, death, or premature
old age; tho from the uce of certain simples together with their diet,
they support this disorder with but little inconvenience for many years,
and even enjoy a tolerable share of health; particularly so among the
Chippeways who I believe to be better skilled in the uce of those simples
than any nation of Savages in North America. The Chippeways use a
decoction of the root of the Lobelia, and that of a species of sumac
common to the Atlantic states and to this country near and on the Western
side of the Rocky Mountains. this is the smallest species of the sumac,
readily distinguished by it's winged rib, or common footstalk, which
supports it's oppositely pinnate leaves. these decoctions are drank freely
and without limitation. the same decoctions are used in cases of the
gonnaerea and are effecatious and sovereign. notwithstanding that this
disorder dose exist among the Indians on the Columbia yet it is witnessed
in but few individuals, at least the males who are always sufficiently
exposed to the observations or inspection of the phisician. in my whole
rout down this river I did not see more than two or three with the
gonnaerea and about double that number with the pox.
The beary which the natives call solme is the production of a plant about
the size and much the shape of that common to the atlantic states which
produces the berry commonly called Solloman's seal berry. this berry also
is attatched to the top of the stem in the same manner; and is of a
globelar form, consisting of a thin soft pellecle which encloses a soft
pulp inveloping from three to four seeds, white, firm, smothe, and in the
form of a third or quarter of a globe, and large in proportion to the
fruit or about the size of the seed of the common small grape. this berry
when grown and unripe is not speckled as that of the Solomon's seal berry
is; this last has only one globular smoth white firm seed in each
berry.the Solme grows in the woodlands among the moss and is an annual
plant to all appearance.
[Clark, January 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th January 1806 This morning Collins Set out to the Saltmakers
Shannon returned and reported that himself and party had killed 10 Elk. he
lef Labiech & R Field with the Elk, two of those Elk he informed us
was at the distance of 9 miles from this place near the top of a mountain,
that the rout by which they must be brought was at least 5 miles by land
thro a Countrey almost inexcessable, from the fallen timber brush, and
Sink holes, which were now disguised by the Snow; we therefore Concluded
to relinquish those two Elks for the present, and ordered every man that
Could be Speared from the Fort to go early in the morning in Serch of the
other Eight, which is at no great distance from the Netul river, on which
we are. Goudrich has recoverd from the louis veneri which he contracted
from a amorous Contact with a Chinnook damsel. he was Cured as Gibson was
with murcury by ____ I cannot lern that the Indians have any Simples
Sovereign Specifics in the cure of this disease; indeed I doubt verry much
whether any of them have any means of effecting a perfect cure. when once
this disorder is contracted by them it Continues with them dureing life;
but always ends in decepitude, death; or premature old age; tho from the
use of certain Simples together with their diet, they Support this
disorder with but little inconveniance for maney years, and even enjoy a
tolerable Share of health; particularly So among the Chippeways who I
beleive to be better Skilled in the use of those Simples than any nation
of Indians in North America. The Chippaways use a decoction of the root of
the Labelia, and that of a Species of Sumac Common to the Atlantic States
and to this countrey near and on the western Side of the Rocky mountains.
This is the Smallest Specis of Sumake, readily distinguished by it's
winged rib, or common footstalk, which Supports it's oppositly pinnate
leaves. these decoctions are drank freely and without limatation. the Same
decoctions are used also in cases of the gonnarea and are effecatious and
sovereign. notwithstanding that this disorder does exist among the indians
on the Columbia yet it is witnessed in but fiew individuals high up the
river, or at least the males who are always Sufficiently exposed to the
observation or inspection of the phisician. in my whole rout down this
river I did not See more than two or three with Gonnarea and about double
that number with the Pox.
The berry which the nativs Call Sol me is the production of a plant about
the Size and much the Shape of that Common to the atlantic States which
produces the berry Commonly Called Sollomons Seal berry this berry is also
attached to the top of the Stem in the Same manner; and is of a globular
form Consisting of a thin Soft Pellicle rine which encloses a Soft
Pellicle pulp inveloping from 3 to 4 Seed, white firm, Smothe, and in the
form of a third or a quarter of a Globe, and large in perportion to the
fruit, or about the Size of the Seed of the Common Small grape. the berry
when grown and unripe is not Specked as the Solomon's seal Berry is; this
last haveing only one Globaler Smothe, ferm, white Seed in each berry-.
the Sol me grows in the wood lands amonge the moss and on the high ridges.
and is an annual plant to all appearance
[Lewis, January 28, 1806]
Wednesday January 28th 1806. Drewyer and Baptiest La Page set out this
morning on a hunting excurtion. about noon Howard and Werner returned with
a supply of salt; the badness of the weather and the difficulty of the
road had caused their delay. they inform us that the salt makers are still
much straitened for provision, having killed two deer only in the last six
days; and that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood. The party that
were sent this morning up Netul river for the Elk returned in the even ing
with three of them only; the Elk had been killed just before the snow fell
which had covered them and so altered the apparent face of the country
that the hunters could not find the Elk which they had killed. the river
on which Fort Clatsop stands we now call Ne-tul, this being the name by
which the Clatsops call it.
The Cranbury of this neighbourhood is precisely the same common to the U
States, and is the production of marshey or boggy grounds. The light brown
berry, is the fruit of a tree about the size shape and appearance in every
rispect with that in the U. States called the wild crab apple; the leaf is
also precisely the same as is also the bark in texture and colour. the
berrys grow in clumps at the end of the small branches; each berry
supported by a seperate stem, and as many as from 3 to 18 or 20 in a
clump. the berry is ovate with one of it's extremities attatched to the
peduncle, where it is in a small degre concave like the insertion of the
stem of the crab apple. I know not whether this fruit can properly be
denominated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the outer coat of which is in
a thin smoth, tho firm tough pillecle; the pericarp containing a
membranous capsule with from three to four cells, each containing a
seperate single seed in form and colour like that of the wild crab. The
wood of this tree is excessively hard when seasoned. the natives make
great uce of it to form their wedges with which they split their boards of
pine for the purpose of building houses. these wedges they also employ in
spliting their fire-wood and in hollowing out their canoes. I have seen
the natives drive the wedges of this wood into solid dry pine which it
cleft without fracturing or injuring the wedg in the smallest degree. we
have also found this wood usefull to us for ax handles as well as glutts
or wedges. the native also have wedges made of the beams of the Elk's
horns which appear to answer extremely well. this fruit is exceedingly
assid, and resembles the flavor of the wild crab.
[Clark, January 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th January 1806 Drewyer and Baptiest Lapage Set out this
morning on a hunting excurtion. about noon Howard & Werner returned
with a Supply of Salt; the badness of the weather and the dificuelty of
the road had detained them. they informed us that the Salt makers are
Still much Stratened for provisions haveing killed two deer only in the
last Six days; and that there are no Elk in their neighbourhood.
The party that was Sent up the Netul river for the Elk returned this
evening with three of them only; The Elk had been killed just before the
Snow fell which had Covered them and So altered the apparant face of the
Countrey that the hunters Could not find them. The River on which Fort
Clat Sop Stands we now call Netul, this being the name by which the
Clatsops Call it.
The Cranberry of this neighbourhood is precisely the Same Common to the
united States, and is the production of boggy or mashey grounds..
The light-brown berry, is the fruit of a tree, about the Size Shape and
appearance in every respect with that in the united States called the wild
Crab apple; the leaf is also presisely the Same as is also the bark in
textue and colour. the berry grows in Clumps at the ends of the Smaller
branches; each berry Supported by a Stem, and as maney as from 3 to 18 or
20 in a Clump. the berry is oval with one of its extremitis attatched to
the peduncle, where it is in a Small degree Concave like the insersion of
the Stem of the Crab apple. I know not whether this fruit Can properly be
denomonated a berry, it is a pulpy pericarp, the outer coat of which is a
thin Smothe, capsule with from three to four Cells, each containing a
Seperate Single Seed in form and Colour like that of the wild Crab apple
The wood of this tree is excessively hard when Seasoned. The nativs make
great use of it to form their wedges of which they Split their boards of
Pine for the purpose of building houses. those wedges they employ in
common with those formed of the Elks horn, in Splitting their fire wood
and in hollowing out their Canoes. I have Seen the nativs drive the wedges
of this wood into a solid dry pine which it cleft without fractureing
injuring the wedge in the Smallest degree. we have also found this wood
useful) to us for ax handles, as well as glutt or wedges. The bark of this
tree is chewed by our party in place of tobacco.
The fruit is exceedingly ascid and resembles the flavor of the wild Crab.
[Lewis, January 29, 1806]
Thursday January 29th 1806. Nothing worthy of notice occurred today. our
fare is the flesh of lean elk boiled with pure water, and a little salt.
the whale blubber which we have used very sparingly is now exhausted. on
this food I do not feel strong, but enjoy the most perfect health; — a
keen appetite supplys in a great degree the want of more luxurious sauses
or dishes, and still render my ordinary meals not uninteresting to me, for
I find myself sometimes enquiring of the cook whether dinner or breakfast
is ready.
The Sac a commis is the growth of high dry situations, and invariably in a
piney country or on it's borders. it is generally found in the open piney
woodland as on the Western side of the Rocky mountain but in this
neighbourhood we find it only in the praries or on their borders in the
more open wood lands; a very rich soil is not absolutely necessary, as a
meager one frequently produces it abundantly. the natives on this side of
the Rockey mountains who can procure this berry invariably use it; to me
it is a very tasteless and insippid fruit. this shrub is an evergreen, the
leaves retain their virdure most perfectly through the winter even in the
most rigid climate as on lake Winnipic. the root of this shrub puts forth
a great number of stems which seperate near the surface of the ground;
each stem from the size of a small quill to that of a man's finger; these
are much branched the branches forming an accute angle with the stem, and
all more poperly pocumbent than creeping, for altho it sometimes puts
forth radicles from the stem and branches which strike obliquely into the
ground, these radicles are by no means general, equable in their distances
from each other nor do they appear to be calculated to furnish nutriment
to the plant but reather to hold the stem or branch in it's place. the
bark is formed of several thin layers of a smoth thin brittle substance of
a dark or redish brown colour easily seperated from the woody stem in
flakes. the leaves with rispect to their position are scatered yet closely
arranged near the extremities of the twigs particularly. the leaf is about
3/4 of an inch in length and about half that in width, is oval but
obtusely pointed, absolutely entire, thick, smoth, firm, a deep green and
slightly grooved. the leaf is supported by a small footstalk of
proportionable length. the berry is attatched in an irregular and
scattered manner to the small boughs among the leaves, tho frequently
closely arranged, but always supported by seperate short and small
peduncles, the insertion of which poduces a slight concavity in the bury
while it's opposite side is slightly convex; the form of the berry is a
spheroid; the shorter diameter being in a line with the peduncle. — this
berry is a pericarp the outer coat of which is a thin firm tough pellicle,
the inner part consists of a dry mealy powder of a yellowish white colour
invelloping from four to six proportionably large hard light brown seeds
each in the form of a section of a spheroid which figure they form when
united, and are destitute of any membranous covering. — the colour of
this fruit is a fine scarlet. the natives usually eat them without any
preperation. the fruit ripens in september and remains on the bushes all
winter. the frost appears to take no effect on it. these berries are
sometimes geathered and hung in their lodges in bags where they dry
without further trouble, for in their most succulent state they appear to
be almost as dry as flour.
[Clark, January 29, 1806]
Friday 29th January 1806 Nothing worthey of notice occured to day. our
fare is the flesh of lean Elk boiled with pure water and a little Salt.
the whale blubber which we have used very Spearingly is now exhosted. on
this food I do not feel Strong, but enjoy tolerable health-. a keen
appetite Supplies in a great degree the want of more luxurious Sauses or
dishes, and Still renders my ordanary meals not uninteresting to me, for I
find myself Sometimes enquireing of the Cook whether dinner Supper or
Brackfast is readyindeed my appetite is but Seldom gratified, not even
after I have eaten what I conceve a Sufficency.
Maney of the nativs of the Columbia were hats & most commonly of a
conic figure without a brim confined on the head by means of a String
which passes under the chin and is attached to the two opposit Sides of a
Secondary rim within the hat — the hat at top termonates in a pointed
knob of a conic form, or in this Shape. these hats are made of the bark of
Cedar and beargrass wrought with the fingers So closely that it Casts the
rain most effectually in the Shape which they give them for their own use
or that just discribed, on these hats they work various figures of
different colours, but most commonly only black and white are employed.
these figures are faint representations of the whales, the Canoes, and the
harpooners Strikeing them. Sometimes Square dimonds triangle &c. The
form of a knife which Seems to be prefured by those people is a double
Edged and double pointed dagger the handle being near the middle, the
blades of uneaquel length, the longest from 9 to 10 incs. and the Shorter
one from 3 to 5 inches. those knives they Carry with them habitually and
most usially in the hand, Sometimes exposed, when in Company with
Strangers under their Robes with this knife they Cut & Clense their
fish make their arrows &c. this is the form of the Knife A is a Small
loop of a Strong twine throng through which they Sometimes they incert the
thumb in order to prevent it being wrested from their hand..
[Lewis, January 30, 1806]
Friday January 30th 1806. Nothing transpired today worthy of notice. we
are agreeably disappointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we
had supposed that it burn but illy, but we have found that by spliting it
that it burns very well. The dress of the Clatsops and others in this
neighbourhood differs but little from that discribed of the skillutes;
they never wear leggins or mockersons which the mildness of this climate I
presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and their being
obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those articles of dress
inconvenient. they wear a hat of a conic figure without a brim confined on
the head by means of a string which passes under the chin and is attatched
to the two opsite sides of a secondary rim within the hat. the hat at top
terminates in a pointed knob of a connic form also, or in this shape.
these hats are made of the bark of cedar and beargrass wrought with the
fingers so closely that it casts the rain most effectually in the shape
which they give them for their own uce or that just discribed. on these
hats they work various figures of different colours, but most commonly
only black and white are employed. these figures are faint representations
of whales the canoes and the harpoonneers striking them. sometimes squares
dimonds triangles &c. The form of knife which seems to be prefered by
these people is a double edged and double pointed daggar; the handle being
in the middle, and the blades of unequal lengths, the longest usually from
9 to ten inches and the shorter one from four to five. these knives they
carry with them habitually and most usually in the hand, sometimes exposed
but most usually particularly when in company with strangers, under their
robes with this knife they cut and clense their fish make their arrows
&c. this is somewhat the form of the knife — A is a small loop of
a strong twine through which they sometimes insert the thumb in order to
prevent it's being wrested from their hand.
[Clark, January 30, 1806]
Fort Clatsop on the Pacific Ocian on the South Side of the Columbia River
Thursday 30th January 1806 Nothing transpired to day worthey of notice. we
are agreeably disapointed in our fuel which is altogether green pine. we
had Supposed that it burned badly, but we have found by Spliting it burns
very well.
The dress of the Clatsops and others of the nativs in the neighbourhood
differ but little from that described of the Skilutes and Wau ki a cums;
they never ware ligins or mockersons which the mildness of the Climate I
presume has rendered in a great measure unnecessary; and their being
obliged to be frequently in the water also renders those articles of dress
inconveniant.
The Sac-a commis is the groth of high dry Situations, and invariably in a
piney Country, or on its borders; it is Generally found in the open piney
woodlands as on the Western Side of the Rocky mountains but in this
neighbourhood we find it in the praries or on the borders in the more open
woodland's; a very rich Soil is not absolutely necessary, as a meager one
frequently produces it abundantly. the nativs on the West side of the
Rocky mountains who can precure this berry invariably use it; to me it is
a very tasteless and insipid frute. This Shrub is an evergreen, the leaves
retain their virdue most perfectly throughout the winter even in the most
rigid climate as on Lake Winnipic. the root of this shrub puts foth a
great number of Stems, which seperate near the surface of the ground; each
Stem from the size of a Small quill, to that of a mans finger. These are
much branched forming an accute angle with the Stem, and all more properly
procumbent than crossing, for altho it sometimes puts foth radicles from
the Stems and branches which Strike obliquely into the ground, those
radicles are by no means general, equable in their distances from each
other nor do they appear to be calculated to furnish nutriment to the
plant but rather to hold the Stem or branch in its place. the bark is
formed of several thin layers of a Smothe thin brittle substance of a
redish brown colour easily seperated from the woody Stem in flakes. the
leaves with respect to their possition are scatter'd yet closely arranged
near the extremities of the twigs particularly. the leaves are about 3/4
of an inch in length and about half that in width, is oval but obtusely
pointed, absolutely entire, thick, Smoth, firm, a deep green and slightly
grooved. the leaf is Supported by a Small footstalk of preportionable
length. the berry is attached in an irregular and Scattered manner to the
Small boughs among the leaves, tho frequently Closely arranged, but always
Supported by a Seperate Short and Small peduncles, the incersion of which
produces a Small concavity in the berry while its opposit side is Slightly
convex; the form of the berry is a Spheroid, the Shorter diameter being in
a line with the peduncle or Stem-. this berry is a pericarp the outer Coat
of which is a thin firm tough pellicle, the inner part consists of dry
mealy powder of a yellowish white colour invelloping from four to six
propotionably large hard light brown seeds each in the form of section of
a spheroid which figure they form when united, and are distitute of any
membranous covering. — the colour of this fruit is a fine scarlet. the
nativs usually eat them without any preparation. the fruit ripens in
September and remains on the bushes all winter. the frost appears to take
no effects on it. these berries are Sometimes gathered and hung in their
houses in bags where they dry without further trouble, for in their
succulent State they appear to be almost as dry as flour.
[Lewis, January 31, 1806]
Saturday January 31st 1806. Sent a party of eight men up the river this
morning to renew their surch for the Elk and also to hunt; they proceded
but a few miles before they found the river so obstructed with ice that
they were obliged to return. Joseph Fields arrived this evening, informed
us that he had been hunting in company with Gibson and Willard for the
last five days in order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt
makers, and that he had been unsuccessfull untill yesday evening when he
had fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this place
and about 8 from the salt works; he left Gibson and Willard to dry the
meat of these Elk and had come for the assistance of some men to carry the
meat to the salt camp; for this purpose we ordered four men to accompany
him early in the morning. discovered that McNeal had the pox, gave him
medecine. Charbono found a bird dead lying near the fort this morning and
brought it to me I immediately recognized it to be of the same kind of
that which I had seen in the Rocky mountains on the morning of the 20th of
September last. this bird is about the size as near as may be of the
robbin. it's contour also is precisely the same with that bird. it
measures one foot 31/4 Inches from tip to tip of the wings when extended.
91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail. the tail
is 33/4 inches in length, and composed of eleven feathers of the same
length. The beak is smoth, black, convex and cultrated; one and 1/8 inches
from the point to the opening of the chaps and 3/4 only uncovered with
feathers; the upper chap exceeds the other a little in length. a few small
black hairs garnish the sides of the base of the upper chap. the eye is of
a uniform deep sea green or black, moderately large. it's legs feet and
tallons are white; the legs are an inch and a 1/4 in length and smoth;
four toes on each foot, of which that in front is the same length with the
leg including the length of the tallon, which is 4 lines; the three
remaining toes are 3/4 of an inch, each armed with proportionably long
tallons. the toes are slightly imbricated. the tallons are curved and
sharply pointed. The crown of the head from the beak back to the neck, the
back of the neck imbracing reather more than half the circumpherence of
the neck, the back and tale, are of bluish dark brown; the two outer
feathers of the tale have a little dash of white near their tips not
percemtible when the tail is foalded. a fine black forms the ground of the
wings; two stripes of the same colour pass on either side of the head from
the base of the beak along the side of the head to it's junction with the
neck, and imbraces the eye to it's upper edge; a third stripe of the same
colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the sides of the neck just
above the butts of the wings across the croop in the form of a gorget. the
throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a fine yellowish
brick red. a narrow stripe of this colour also commences just above the
center of each eye, and extends backwards to the neck as far as the black
stripe reaches before discribed, to which, it appears to answer as a
border. the feathers which form the 1st and second ranges of the coverts
of the two joints of the wing next the body, are beautifully tiped with
this brick red; as is also each large feather of the wing on the short
side of it's plumage for 1/2 an inch in length commening at the extremity
of the feathers which form the first or main covert of the wing. this is a
beatifull little bird. I have never heard it's note it appears to be
silent. it feeds on berries, and I beleive is a rare bird even in this
country, or at least this is the second time only that I have seen it. — between
the legs of this bird the feathers are white, and those which form the
tuft underneath the tail are a mixture of white and a brick red.
[Clark, January 31, 1806]
Friday January 31st 1806 Sent a party of Eight men with the hunters to
renew their Serch for the Elk, and also to hunt; they proceeded but a fiew
miles before they found the river So obstructed with ice that they were
obliged to return. Jo. Field arrives this evening, informs us That he had
been hunting in Company with gibson and willard for the last four days in
order to obtain some meat for himself and the other Salt-makers, and that
he had been unsucksessfull untill yesterday evening when he had
fortunately killed two Elk, about six miles distant from this place and
about 8 from the Salt works; he left gibson and willard to dry the meat of
those Elk, and had come for assistance to carry the meat to the Salt Camp;
for this purpose we ordered four men to accompany him early in the
morning. discovered that McNeal had the pox, gave him medicine. Chabono
found a bird dead lying near the Fort this morning and brought it in, I
reconized it to be the Same kind of that which I had Seen in the Rocky
Mountains at severl different times. this berd is about the Size as near
as may be of the robin. it's contour is also presisely the Same with that
bird. it measured one foot 3/4 inches from tip to tip of the wings when
extended. 91/4 inches from the extremity of the beak to that of the tail.
the tail is 33/4 inches in length, and Composed of 11 feathers of the Same
length. The beak is Smoth, black, convex and cultrated; 1 1/8 inchs from
the point to the opening of the Chaps and 3/4 only uncovered with
feathers, the upper Chap exceeds the other a little in length. a fiew
Small black hairs garnish the Side of the upper chap. The Eye is of a
uniform deep Sea green or black, moderately large. it's legs feet and
tallants are white; the legs are of 11/4 in length and Smoth; four toes on
each foot, of which that in front is the Same length of the leg including
the tallants, which is 4 lines; the 3 remaining toes are 3/4 of an inch,
each armed with proportianably large tallons. the toes are Slightly
imbricated. the tallons are curved and Sharply pointed. The Crown of the
head from the beak back to the neck imbracing rather more than half the
circumphrence of the neck, the Back and tail is of a bluish dark brown;
the two outer feathers of the tail have a little dash of white near the
tips, not proceivable when the tail is foalded. a fine black forms the
ground of the wings; two Stripes of the same colour passes on either side
of the Head from the base of the Back along the Side of the head to it's
junction with the neck, and embraces the eye to its upper edge; a third
Stripe of the Same Colour 3/4 of an inch in width passes from the Side of
the neck just above the buts of the wings across the troop in the form of
a gorget. the throat or under part of the neck brest and belly is of a
fine Yellowish brick red. a narrow Stripe of this Colour also Commences
just above the center of each eye, and extends backwards to the Neck as
far as the black Spots reaches before discribed, to which it appears to
answer as a border. the feathers which form the 1st and Second range of
the coverts of the two joints of the wings next the body are butifully
aped with this Brick red; as is also each large feather of the wing on the
Short Side of its plumage for 1/2 an inch in length Comencing at the
extremity of the feather which form the first or main Covert of the wing.
This is a butifull little bird. I have never herd its notes it appears to
be Silent. it feeds on berries, and I believe is a rare bird even in this
country-. between the legs of this bird the feathers are white, and those
which form the tuft underneath the tail are a mixture of white and Brick
red.
[Lewis, February 1, 1806]
Saturday February 1st 1806. This morning a party of four men set out with
Joseph Fields; Sergt. Gass with a party of five men again set out up the
Netul river in surch of the Elk which had been killed some days since, and
which could not be found in consequence of the snow. The Canoes of the
natives inhabiting the lower portion of the Columbia River make their
canoes remarkably neat light and well addapted for riding high waves. I
have seen the natives near the coast riding waves in these canoes with
safety and apparently without concern where I should have thought it
impossible for any vessel of the same size to lived a minute. they are
built of whitecedar or Arborvita generally, but sometimes of the firr.
they are cut out of a solid stick of timber, the gunwals at the upper edge
foald over outwards and are about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 or five
broad, and stand horrizontally forming a kind of rim to the canoe to
prevent the water beating into it. they are all furnished with more or
less crossbars in proportion to the size of the canoe. these bars are
round sticks about half the size of a man's arm, which are incerted
through holes (just) made in either side of the canoe just below the rim
of the gunwall and are further secured with strings of waytape; these
crossbars serve to lift and manage the canoe on land. when the natives
land they invariably take their canoes on shore, unless they are heavily
laden, and then even, if they remain all night, they discharge their loads
and take the canoes on shore. some of the large canoes are upwards of 50
feet long and will carry from 8 to 10 thousand lbs. or from 20 to thirty
persons and some of them particularly on the sea coast are waxed painted
and ornimented with curious images at bough and Stern; those images
sometimes rise to the hight of five feet; the pedestals on which these
immages are fixed are sometimes cut out of the solid stick with the canoe,
and the imagary is formed of seperate small peices of timber firmly united
with tenants and motices without the assistance of a single spike of any
kind. when the natives are engaged in navigating their canoes one sets in
the stern and steers with a paddle the others set by pears and paddle over
the gunwall next them, they all kneel in the bottom of the canoe and set
on their feet. their paddles are of a uniform shape of which this is an
imitation these paddles are made very thin and the middle of the blade is
thick and hollowed out siddonly and made thin at the sides while the
center forms a kind of rib. the blade occupys about one third of the
length of the paddle which is usually from 41/2 to 5 feet. I have observed
four forms of canoe only in uce among the nations below the grand chatarac
of this river they are as follow. this is the smallest size about 15 feet
long and calculated for one or two persons, and are most common among the
Cathlahmahs and Wack ki a cums among the marshey Islands. A the bow; B,
the stern; these are from twenty to thirty five feet and from two 1/2 to 3
feet in the beam and about 2 feet in the hole; this canoe is common to all
the nations below the grand rappids. it is here made deeper and shorter in
proportion than they really are. — the bowsprit from C, to D is
brought to a sharp edge tapering gradually from the sides.
This is the most common forms of the canoe in uce among the Indians from;
the Chil-luck-kit-te-quaw inclusive to the Ocean and is usually about 30
or 35 feet long, and will carry from ten to twelve persons. 4 men are
competent to carry them a considerable distance say a mile without
resting. A is the end which they use as the bow, but which on first sight
I took to be the stern C. D. is a comb cut of the sollid stick with the
canoe and projects from the center of the end of the canoe being about 1
inch thirck it's sides parallel and edge at C D. sharp. it is from 9 to 11
Inches in length and extends from the underpart of the bowsprit at A to
the bottom of the canoe at D. — the stern B. is mearly rounding and
graduly ascending. 1 2 3 represents the rim of the gunwalls about 4 Inches
wide, reather ascending as they recede from the canoe. 4 5 6 7 8 are the
round holes through which the cross bars are inserted.
This form of canoe we did not meet with untill we reached tidewater or
below the grand rappids. from thence down it is common to all the nations
but more particularly the Killamucks and others of the coast. these are
the largest canoes. B. is the bow and comb. C. the stern and comb. their
immages are representations of a great variety of grotesque figures, any
of which might be safely worshiped without committing a breach of the
commandments.
They have but few axes among them, and the only too usually imployed in
felling the trees or forming the canoe, carving &c is a chissel formed
of an old file about an Inch or an Inch and a half broad. this chissel has
sometimes a large block of wood for a handle; they grasp the chissel just
below the block with the right hand holding the edge down while with the
left they take hold of the top of the block and strike backhanded against
the wood with the edge of the chissel. a person would suppose that the
forming of a large canoe with an instrument like this was the work of
several years; but these people make them in a few weeks. they prize their
canoes very highly; we have been anxious to obtain some of them, for our
journey up the river but have not been able to obtain one as yet from the
natives in this neighbourhood. today we opened and examined all our
ammunition, which had been secured in leaden canesters. we found twenty
seven of the best rifle powder, 4 of common rifle, three of glaized and
one of the musqut powder in good order, perfectly as dry as when first put
in the canesters, altho the whole of it from various accedents has been
for hours under the water. these cannesters contain four lbs. of powder
each and 8 of lead. had it not have been for that happy expedient which I
devised of securing the powder by means of the lead, we should not have
had a single charge of powder at this time. three of the canesters which
had been accedentally bruized and cracked, one which was carelessly
stoped, and a fifth that had been penetrated with a nail, were a little
dammaged; these we gave to the men to make dry; however exclusive of those
five we have an abundant stock to last us back; and we always take care to
put a proportion of it in each canoe, to the end that should one canoe or
more be lost we should still not be entirely bereft of ammunition, which
is now our only hope for subsistence and defence in a rout of 4000 miles
through a country exclusively inhabited by savages.
[Clark, February 1, 1806]
Saturday February 1st 1806 This morning a party of four men Set out with
Jo. Field; and Sergt. Gass with a party of five men again Set out up the
Netul river in Serch of the Elk which had been killed Some days since, and
which Could not be found in Consequence of the Snow.
The Canoes of the nativs inhabitting the lower part of the Columbia River
from the Long narrows down make their canoes remarkably neat light and
well addapted for rideing high waves. I have Seen the nativs near the
Coast rideing waves in these Canoes in Safty and appearantly without
Concern when I Should it impossible for any vessel of the Same Size to
have lived or kept above water a minute. they are built of Arborvitia or
white Cedar generally, but Sometimes of fir. they are cut out of a solid
Stick of timber, the gunnals at the upper edge fold over outwards and are
about 5/8 of an inch thick and 4 or 5 broad, and Stand out nearly
Horizontially forming a kind of rim to the Canoe to prevent the water
beating into it. they are all furnished with more or less Cross bars
agreeably to thier sizes of the Canoe, those bars are round Sticks about 1
inch and 1/2 diameter which are atached to the iner Side of the canoes a
little below the rim on either Side with throngs of Cedar bark which is
incerted through holes and made fast to the ends of the Stick, which is
made Smaller than the other part of the Stick to prevent the cord Slipping
off these cross bears Serve to Strengthen the canoe, and by which they
lift and manage her on land. when the nativs land they invariably take
their Canoes on Shore unless they are heavily ladined, and then even, if
they remain all night, they discharge their loads and take the Canoe on
Shore.
Some of the large Canoes are upwards of 50 feet long and will Carry from 8
to 12 thousand lbs. or from 20 to 30 persons, and Some of them
particularly on the Sea Coast are waxed painted and ornimented with
curious images on bow and Stern; those images sometimes rise to the hight
of five feet; the pedestile on which these images are fixed, are Sometimes
cut out of the Solid Stick with the Canoe, and the image is formed of
Seperate pieces of timber firmly united with tenants and mortices without
the appearance of a Single Spike or nail of any kind. when the nativs are
engaged in navigateing their Canoes, one Sets in the Stern and Stears with
a paddle the others Set by pars and paddle over their gunnals next them,
they all kneel in the bottom of the Canoe and Set on their feet. their
paddles are of an uniform shape which this is an imitation those paddles
are made verry thin and the middle of the blade is thick and hollowed out
Suddenly, and made thin on the Sides, the center forming a kind of ridge.
the handle occupies about 1/8 of the length of the paddle which is usually
4 to 41/2 feet in length. I have observed five forms of Canoes only in use
among the nativs below the Grand Cataract of this river. they areas
follows. this is the Smallest Size about 15 feet long, 12 and Calculated
for one two men mearly to cross creeks, take over Short portages to
navagate the ponds and Still water, and is mostly in use amongst the
Clatsops and Chinnooks. this is the next Smallest and from 16 to 20 feet
long and calculated for two or 3 persons and are most common among the
Wau-ki-a-cums and Cath-lah-mahs among the marshey Islands, near their
villages. A the bow; B the Stern; those are from 20 to 40 feet in length
and from 21/2 to 31/2 feet in the beam and about 2 feet deep; this Canoe
is common to all the nations below the grand Rapids it here made deeper
and Shorter in pertotion than the Canoe realy is, the bow sprit from C. to
D. is brought to a Sharp edge tapering gradually from the Sides. This is
the most common form of the Canoes in use among the indians from the
Chil-luck-kit-te quaw inclusive to the ocian and is commonly from about 30
to 35 feet long, and will carry from 10 to 12 persons. 4 men are competent
to carry them a considerable distance Say a mile without resting. A is the
end the nativs use as the bow, but which on first Sight I took to be the
Stern c. d. is a comb cut of the solid wood with the Canoe, and projects
from the Center of the end of the Canoe being about 1 inch thick, it's
Sides parallel and edge at c, d, Sharp it is from 9 to 11 inches in debth
and extends from the under part of the bow sprit at A to the bottom at,
d,. the Stern B is nearly rounding and gradually assending. 1, 2, 3,
represents the rim of the gunnals about 4 inches wide, reather ascending
as they recede from the Canoe. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, are the holes through which
the String pass to fasten the round pieces which pass Crosswise the Canoe
to Strengthen & lift her. This form of a canoe we did not meet with
untill we reached tide water or below the Great Rapids. from thence down
it is common to all the nations but more particularly the Kil a mox and
others of the Coast. these are the largest Canoes, I measured one at the
Kilamox villag S S W of us which was ____ feet long ____ feet wide and
____ feet deep, and they are most Commonly about that Size. B is the how,
and Comb. C, the stern and Comb. Their images are representations of a
great variety of grotesque figures, any of which might be Safely worshiped
without commiting a breach of the Commandments.
They have but fiew axes among them, and the only tool usially employd in
forming the Canoe, carveing &c is a chissel formed of an old file
about an inch or 11/2 inchs broad, this chissel has Sometimes a large
block of wood for a handle; they grasp the chissel just below the block
with the right hand holding the top of the block, and Strikes backwards
against the wood with the edge of the Chissel. a person would Suppose that
forming a large Canoe with an enstriment like this was the work of Several
years; but those people make them in a fiew weeks. They prize their Canoes
very highly; we have been anxious to obtain Some of them, for our journy
up the river but have not been able to obtain one as yet from the nativs
in this neighbourhood.
To day we opened and examined all our Ammunition, which has been Secured
in leaden Canistirs. we found twenty Sevin of the best Rifle powder, 4 of
Common rifle, 3 of Glaize and one of Musquet powder in good order,
perfectly as dry as when first put in the Canisters, altho the whole of it
from various accidince have been for hours under the water. these
Cannisters Contain 4 pounds of powder each and 8 of Lead. had it not been
for that happy expedient which Capt Lewis devised of Securing the powder
by means of the Lead, we Should have found great dificuelty in keeping dry
powder untill this time-; those Cannisters which had been accidently
brused and cracked, one which was carelessly Stoped, and a fifth which had
been penetrated with a nail; were wet and damaged; those we gave to the
men to Dry; however exclusive of those 5 we have an abundant Stock to last
us back; and we always take Care to put a purpotion of it in each canoe,
to the end that Should one Canoe or more be lost we Should Still not be
entirely bereft of ammunition, which is now our only hope for Subsistance
and defences in the rout of 4,000 miles through a Country exclusively
inhabited by Indians-many bands of which are Savage in every Sense of the
word-.
[Lewis, February 2, 1806]
Sunday February 2cd 1806. Not any occurrence today worthy of notice; but
all are pleased, that one month of the time which binds us to Fort Clatsop
and which seperates us from our friends has now elapsed. one of the games
of amusement and wrisk of the Indians of this neighbourhood like that of
the Sosones consists in hiding in the hand some small article about the
size of a bean; this they throw from one hand to the other with great
dexterity accompanying their opperations with a particular song which
seems to have been addapted to the game; when the individul who holds the
peice has amused himself sufficiently by exchanging it from one hand to
the other, he hold out his hands for his compettitors to guess which hand
contains the peice; if they hit on the hand which contains the peice they
win the wager otherwise loose. the individual who holds the peice is a
kind of banker and plays for the time being against all the others in the
room; when he has lost all the property which he has to venture, or thinks
proper at any time, he transfers the peice to some other who then also
becoms banker. The Sosone and Minnetares &c have a game of a singular
kind but those divide themselves in two parties and play for a common
wager to which each individual contributes to form the stock of his party.
one of them holdes the peice and some one of the opposite party gesses
which hand contains if he hits on the hand which contains it the peice is
transferred to the opposite party and the victor counts one, if he misses
the party still retain the peice and score one but the individual tranfers
the peice to some other of his own party; the game is set to any number
they think proper, and like the natives of this quarter they always
accompany their opperations with a particular song. the natives here have
also another game which consists in bowling some small round peices about
the size of Bacgammon men, between two small upright sticks placed a few
inches asunder, but the principals of the game I have not learn not
understanding their language sufficiently to obtain an explanation. their
boys amuse themselves with their bows and arrows as those do of every
Indian nation with which I am acquainted. these people are excessively
fond of their games of risk and bet freely every species of property of
which they are possessed. They have a smal dog which they make usefull
only in hunting the Elk.
[Clark, February 2, 1806]
Sunday February 2nd 1806 Not any accurrence to day worthy of notice; but
all are pleased, that one month of the time which binds us to fort
Clatsop, and which Seperates us from our friends, has now alapsed.
The games of amusements of the natives of this neighbourhood are Several,
one of which is verry similar to one which the Sosone's & Minatare's
are verry fond of and frequently play. they devide themselves into two
parties and play for a common wager to which each individual Contributes
to form the Stock of his party, one of them holdes the piece which is
usually about the Size of a Bean, and Some one of the oposit party gesses
which hand Contains, if he hits on the hand which Contains it, the piece
is transfired to the opposit party and the victor Counts one, if he misses
the party Still retains the piece and scores one, but the individual
transfirs the piece to Some one of his own party; the game is Set to any
number they think proper. they always accompany their opperations with a
particular Song. The amusements of the boys of all nations which I am
acquainted with are generally the Bows and arrows.
All nations of Indians with which I am acquainted are excessive fond of
their games of risk, and bet away Species of property of which they are
possessed.
The nativs of this neighbourhood have a Small Dog which they make usefull
only in hunting the Elk.
[Lewis, February 3, 1806]
Monday February 3rd 1806. About three o'clock Drewyer and La Page,
returned; Drewyer had killed seven Elk in the point below us, several
miles distant but can be approached with in 3/4 of a mile with canoes by
means of a small creek which discharges itself into the bay on this side
of the Clatsop village direct Sergt. pryor to go in quest of the meat, the
wind was so high that they were unable to set out untill a little before
sunset, when they departed; at 10 P.M. they return excessively could and
informed us that they could not make land on this side of the bay nor get
into the creek in consequence of the tide being out and much lower than
usual. we are apprehensive that the Clatsops who know where the meat is
will rob us of a part if not the whole of it. at half after 4 P.M. Sergt
Gass returned with his party, they brought with them the flesh of four
other Elk which the hunters had found, being a part of the ten which were
killed up the Netul river the other day. he left R. Fields, Shannon and
Labuish to continue the hunt and made an appointment to return to them on
Friday. late in the evening the four men who had been sent to assist the
saltmakers in transporting meat which they had killed to their camp, also
returned, and brought with them all the salt which had been made,
consisting of about one busshel only. with the means we have of boiling
the salt water we find it a very tedious opperation, that of making salt,
notwithstanding we keep the kettles boiling day and night. we calculate on
three bushels lasting us from hence to our deposits of that article on the
Missouri.
[Clark, February 3, 1806]
Monday February 3rd 1806 About 3 oClock Drewyer & Lapage returned,
Drewyer had killed Seven Elk in the point below us, Several miles distant,
but Can be approached within 3/4 of a mile with Canoes by means of a Small
Creak which discharges itself into the Bay, on this Sid of the Clatsop
Village. Directed Serjt. Pryor to go in quest of the meat, the winds was
So high that they were unable to Set out until) a little before Sunset,
when they departed; at 10 P.M. they returned excessively Cold and informed
us that they could not make land on this Side of the bay or get into the
Creek in consequence of the tides being out and much lower than usial. we
are apprehensive that the Clatsops knowing where the meat is, will rob us
of a part if not the whole of it. at half after 4 P. M Sergt. Gass
returned with his party they brought with them the flesh of 4 other Elk
which the hunters had found, being part of the 10 which were killed up the
Netul river the other day. He left Ro. Field, Shannon & Labiesh to
Continue the hunt, and made an appointment to return to them on friday.
late in the evening the four men who had been Sent to assist the
Saltmakers in transporting meat which they had killed to their Camp also
returned, and brought with them all the Salt which had been made,
consisting of about one Sushel only. with the means we have of boiling the
Salt water we find it a very tegious opperation that of makeing Salt,
notwithstanding the Kitties are kept boiling day and night. we Calculate
on three bushels lasting us from hiere to our deposit of that article on
the Missouri.
[Lewis, February 4, 1806]
Tuesday February 4th 1806. Sergt. Pryor with a party of five men set out
again in quest of the Elk which Drewyer had killed. Drewyer and La Page
also returned to continue the chase in the same quarter. the Elk are in
much better order in the point near the praries than they are in the woody
country arround us or up the Netul. in the praries they feed on grass and
rushes, considerable quantities of which are yet green and succulet. in
the woody country their food is huckle berry bushes, fern, and an
evergreen shrub which resembles the lore) in some measure; the last
constitutes the greater part of their food and grows abundantly through
all the timbered country, particularly the hillsides and more broken parts
of it. There are sveral species of fir in this neighbourhood which I shall
discribe as well as my slender botanicall skit will enable me and for the
convenience of comparison with each other shal number them. (No 1.) a
species which grows to immence size; very commonly 27 feet in the girth
six feet above the surface of the earth, and in several instances we have
found them as much as 36 feet in the girth or 12 feet diameter perfectly
solid and entire. they frequently rise to the hight of 230 feet, and one
hundred and twenty or 30 of that hight without a limb. this timber is
white and soft throughout and rives better than any other species which we
have tryed. the bark skales off in irregula rounded flakes and is of a
redish brown colour particularly of the younger growth. the stem of this
tree is simple branching, ascending, not very defuse, and proliferous. the
leaf of this tree is acerose, 1/10th of an Inch in width, and 3/4 of an
Inch in length; is firm, stif and accuminate; they are triangular, a
little declining, thickly scattered on all sides of the bough, but rispect
the three uppersides only and are also sessile growing from little
triangular pedestals of soft spungy elastic bark. at the junction of the
boughs, the bud-scales continue to incircle their rispective twigs for
several yeas; at least three years is common and I have counted as many as
the growth of four years beyond these scales. this tree affords but little
rosin. it's cone I have not yet had an opportunity to discover altho I
have sought it frequently; the trees of this kind which we have felled
have had no cones on them.
[Clark, February 4, 1806]
Tuesday February 4th 1806 Serjt. Pryor with a party of 5 men Set out again
in quest of the Elk which Drewyer had Killed. Drewyer also returned to
continue the Chase in the Same quarter. the Elk are in much better order
in the point near the praries than they are in the woodey Country around
us or up the Netul. in the praries they feed on grass and rushes, which
are yet green. in the woddey Countrey their food is huckleberry bushes,
fern, and the Shal-lon an evergreen Shrub, which resembles the Lorel in
Some measure; the last constitutes the greater part of their food and
grows abundant through all the timbered Country, particularly the hill
Sides and more broken parts of it. There are Several Species of Fir in
this neighbourhood which I shall discribe as well as my botanicale Skill
will enable me, and for the Convenience of Comparrison with each other
Shall number them. (No. i,) a Species which grows to an emence size; verry
commonly 27 feet in Surcumferonce at 6 feet above the surface of the
earth, and in Several instances we have found them as much as 36 feet in
the Girth, or 12 feet Diameter perfectly Solid & entire. they
frequently rise to the hight of 230 feet, and 120 or 30 of that hight
without a limb. this timber is white and Soft throughout and rives better
than any other Species we have tried the bark Shales off in arregular
rounded flakes and is of a redish brown Colour, particularly of the
younger growth, the Stem of this tree is simple branching, assending, not
very defuse, and proliferous, the leaf of this tree is accerose 1/2 a line
in width, and 3/4 of an inch in length; is firm Stiff and accuminate; they
are triangular, little declineing, thickly scattered on all Sides of the
Bough, but respect the three upper Sides only Growing from little
triangular pedistals of Soft Spungy Elastic bark. at the junction of these
bough's, the bud-scales continue to incircle the respective twigs for
several years; at least 3 years is common and I have counted as maney as
the groth of 4 years beyond these Scales. this tree affords but little
rozin. it's cone I have not yet had an oppertunity to discover altho I
have Sought it frequently; the trees of this kind which we have fell'd
have had no cones on them.
[Lewis, February 5, 1806]
Wednesday February 5th 1806. Late this evening one of the hunters fired
his gun over the swamp of the Netul opposite to the fort and hooped. I
sent sergt. Gass and a party of men over; the tide being in, they took
advantage of a little creek which makes up in that direction nearly to the
highlands, and in their way fortunately recovered our Indian Canoe, so
long lost and much lamented. The Hunter proved to be Reubin Fields, who
reported that he had killed six Elk on the East side of the Netul a little
above us; and that yesterday he had heard Shannon and Labuishe fire six or
seven shots after he had seperated from them and supposed that they had
also killed several other Elk. Filds brought with him a phesant which
differed but little from those common to the Atlantic states; it's brown
is reather brighter and more of a redish tint. it has eighteen feathers in
the tale of about six inches in length. this bird is also booted as low as
the toes. the two tufts of long black feathers on each side of the neck
most conspicuous in the male of those of the Atlantic states is also
observable in every particular with this. — Fir No. 2 is next in
dignity in point of size. it is much the most common species, it may be
sad to constitute at least one half of the timber in this neighbourhood.
it appears to be of the spruse kind. it rises to the hight of 160 to 180
feet very commonly and is from 4 to 6 feet in diameter, very streight
round and regularly tapering. the bark is thin of a dark colour, and much
divided with small longitudinal intersticies; that of the boughs and young
trees is somewhat smoth but not so much so as the balsom fir nor that of
the white pine of our country. the wood is white throughout and reather
soft but very tough, and difficult to rive. The trunk of this tree is a
simple branching diffused stem and not proliferous as the pines & firs
usially are but like most other trees it puts forth buds from the sides of
the small boughs as well as their extremities. the stem usually terminates
in a very slender pointed top like the cedar. The leaves are petiolate,
the footstalk small short and oppressed; acerose reather more than half a
line in width and very unequal in length, the greatest length being little
more than half an inch, while others intermixed on every part of the bough
are not more than a 1/4 in length. flat with a small longitudinal channel
in the upper disk which is of a deep green and glossey, while the uder
disk is of a whiteish green only; two ranked, obtusely pointed, soft and
flexable. this tree affords but little rosin. the cone is remarkably small
not larger than the end of a man's thumb soft, flexable and of an ovate
form, produced at the ends of the small twigs.
[Clark, February 5, 1806]
Wednesday February 5th 1806 Late this evening one of the hunters fired off
his gun over the marsh of the Netul opposit to the fort & hhoped. we
Sent Sergt. Gass and a party of men over; the tide being in they took
advantage of a little Creek which makes up in that direction nearly to the
high lands, and in their way fortunately recovered our Indian Canoe So
long lost and much lamented. The hunter provd. to be Reubin Field, who
reported that he had killed Six Elk on the East Side of the Netul a little
above us; and that he had parted with Shannon and Labiesh yesterday after
he had herd them fire Six or Seven Shot after he had Seperated from them,
and Supposed that they had also killed Several other Elk. Fields brought
with him a Pheasant which differs but little from those Common to the
United States — Fur No. 2 is next in dignity in point of Size. it is
much the most common Species, it may be Said to Constitute one half of the
timber of this neigh-bourhood. it appears to be of the Spruce kind. it
rises to the higth of 160 or 180 feet very Commonly and is from 4 to 6
feet in diameter, very Streight round and regularly tapering. the bark is
thin of a dark colour, and much divided with Small longitudinal
interstices; that of the boughs and young trees are Somewhat Smoth but not
So much so as the balsom fir, nor that of the white pine of our Countrey.
the wood is white throughout and rather Soft but rather tough and
dificuelt to rive. The trunk of this tree is Simple branching, deffused
Stem and not proliferous as the pine and fir usially are, but like most
other trees it puts foth buds from the Sides of the Small boughes as well
as from their extremities. the Stem usially termonate in a very slender
pointed top like the Cedar. The leaves are petiolate, the footstalk Small
Short and oppressed; acerose reather more than 1/2 a line in wedth and
very uneaqual in length, the greatest length being a little more than half
an inch, while others intermixed on every part of the bough are not more
than a 1/4 of an inch in length. flat with a Small longitudinal channel in
the upper disk which is of a Deep green and glossy, while the under disk
is of a whitish green only; two ranked, obtusely pointed, Soft and
flexable. this tree affords but little rosin. the Cone is remarkably
Small, not larger than the end of a mans thumb Soft, flexable and of an
oval form, produced at the end of a Small twig.
[Lewis, February 6, 1806]
Thursday February 6th 1806. Sent Sergts. Gass and Ordway this morning with
R. Fields and a party of men to bring in the Elk which Field had killed.
Late in the evening Sergt. Pryor returned with the flesh of about 2 Elk
and 4 skins the Indians having purloined the ballance of seven Elk which
Drewyer killed the other day. I find that there are 2 vilages of Indians
living on the N. side of the Columbia near the Marshy Islands who call
themselves Wackki-a-cum. these I have hertofore Considered as
Cath-lah-mahs. they speak the same language and are the same in every
other rispect.
No. 3 A species of fir which one of my men informs me is precisely the
same with that called the balsam fir of Canada. it grows here to
considerable size, being from 21/2 to 4 feet in diameter and rises to the
hight of eighty or an hundred feet. it's stem is simple branching,
ascending and proliferous. it's leaves are sessile, acerose, one 1/8 of an
inch in 1/16th of an inch in width, thickly scattered on all sides of the
twigs as far as the growth of four preceeding years and rispect the three
undersides only the uper side being neglected and the under side but
thinly furnished; gibbous, a little declining, obtusely pointed, soft
flexible, and the upper disk longitudinally marked with a slight channel;
this disk is of a glossy deep green, the under one green tho paler and not
glossy. this tree affords considerable quantities of a fine clear
arromatic balsam in appearance and taste like the Canadian balsam. smal
pustules filled with this balsam rise with a blister like appearance on
the body of the tree and it's branches; the bark which covers these
pustules is soft thin smoth and easily punctured. the bark of the tree
generally is thin of a dark brown colour and reather smooth tho not as
much so as the white pine of our county. the wood is white and soft. — (No.
4) is a species of fir which in point of size is much that of No. 2. the
stem simple branching ascending and proliferous; the bark of a redish dark
brown and thicker than that of No. 3. it is divided with small
longitudinal interstices, but these are not so much ramifyed as in species
No. 2. the leaves with rispect to their position in regard to each other
is the same with the balsam fir, as is the leaf in every other rispect
except that it not more than 2/3ds the width and little more than half the
length of the other, nor is it's upper disk of so deep a green nor so
glossey. it affords no balsam and but little rosin. the wood also white
soft and reather porus tho tough. — No 5. is a species of fir which
arrives to the size of Nos. 2 and 4, the stem simple branching, diffuse
and proliferous. the bark thin, dark brown, much divided with small
longitudinal interstices and sometimes scaleing off in thin rolling
flakes. it affords but little rosin and the wood is redish white 2/3ds of
the diameter in the center, the ballance white, somewhat porus and tough.
the twigs are much longer and more slender than in either of the other
species. the leaves are acerose, 1/20th of an inch in width, and an inch
in length, sessile, inserted on all sides of the bough, streight, their
extremities pointing obliquely toward the extremities of the bough and
more thickly placed than in either of the other species; gibbous and
flexeable but more stif than any except No. 1 and more blontly pointed
than either of the other species; the upper disk has a small longitudinal
channel and is of a deep green tho not so glossy as the balsam fir, the
under disk is of a pale green. — No. 65 the white pine; or what is
usually so called in Virginia. I see no difference between this and that
of the mountains in Virginia; unless it be the uncommon length of cone of
this found here, which are sometimes 16 or 18 inches in length and about 4
inches in circumpherence. I do not recollect those of virginia perfectly
but it strikes me that they are not so long. this species is not common I
have only seen it but in one instance since I have been in this
neighbourhood which was on the border of Haley's bay on the N. side of the
Columbia near the Ocean.
[Clark, February 6, 1806]
Thursday February 6th 1806 Sent Serjt. Gass and party this morning with Ru
Field to bring in the Elk which Field had killed. late in the evening
Serjt. Pryor returned with the fish of about 2 Elk and four skins the
Indians haveing taken the ballance of Seven Elk which Drewyer killed the
other day. I find that those people will all Steal.
No. 3 a Species of fir, which one of my men inform me is presisely the
Same with that called the balsam fir of Canada. it grows here to
considerable Size, being from 21/2 to 4 feet in diameeter and rises to the
hight of 100 or 120 feet. it's Stem is Simple branching assending and
proliferous-. it's leaves are cessile, acerose, 1/8 of an inch in length
and 1/16 of an inch in width, thickly scattered on all Sides of the twigs
as far as the groth of four proceeding years, and respects the three
undersides only, the upper Side being neglected and the under Side but
thinly furnished; gibbous a little declineing, obtusely pointed, Soft
flexable, and the upper disk longitudinally marked with a Slight Channel;
this disk is of a glossy deep green, the under one green tho paler and not
glossy. This tree affords a considerable quantity of a fine Clear
arromatic Balsom in appearance and taste like the Canadian balsom. Small
pustuls filled with the balsom rise with a blister like appearance on the
body of the tree and it's branches; the bark which covers these pustules
is Soft thin Smothe and easily punctured. the bark of the tree is
generally thin of a dark brown colour and reather Smooth tho not as much
so as the white pine of the U. States the wood is white and Soft.
No. 4 a Species of fir which in point of Size is much that of No 2,-. the
Stem Simple branching assending and proliferous; the bark of a redish dark
brown and thicker than that of No. 3. it is devided with Small
longitudinal interstices, but these are not So much ramefied as in the
Specis No. 2. the leaves with respect to their possition in reguard to
each other is the Same with the balsam fir, as is the leaf in every other
respect than that, it is not more than 2/3ds the width and little more
than half the length of the other, nor is it's upper disk of so deep a
green nor glossy. it affords no balsam, and but little rosin. the wood
also white Soft and reather porus tho tough-. No. 5 is a species of fir
which arives to the Size of No. 2, and No. 4. the Stem Simple branching,
diffuse and proliferous. the bark thin dark brown, much divided with Small
longitudinal interstices scaleing off in thin rolling flakes. it affords
but little rosin and the wood is redish white 2/3ds of the diamieter in
the Center the ballance white Somewhat porus and tough. the twigs are much
longer and more slender than in either of the other speceies. the leaves
are acerose 1/20 of an inch in width, and an inch in length, sessile,
inserted on all Sides of the bough, Streight, their extremities pointing
obliquely towards the extremities of the bough and more thickly placed
than in either of the other Species; gibbous and flexable but more stiff
than any except No. 1 and more blontly pointed than either of the other
Species; the upper disk has a Small longitudinal Channel and is of a deep
green tho not so Glossy as the balsam fir, the under disk is of a pail
green. No. 6 the White pine; or what is usially So Called in Virginia. I
see no difference between this and that of the mountains in Virginia;
unless it be the uncommon length of the cone of this found here, which are
Sometimes 16 or 18 inches in length and about 4 inches in Surcumfrance. I
do not recollect those of Virginia, but it Strikes me that they are not So
long. this Species is not common I have Seen it only in three instances
since I have been in this neighbourhood, I saw a few on Haleys bay on the
North Side of the Columbia River, a fiew scattering on the Sea coast to
the North on one of which I engraved my name-and Some on the S S E Side of
E co la Creek near the Kil a mox nation, at which place I Saw the white
& red Cedar
[Lewis, February 7, 1806]
Friday February 7th 1806. This evening Sergt. Ordway and Wiser returned
with a part of the meat which R. Fields had killed; the ballance of the
party with Sergt. Gass remained in order to bring the ballance of the meat
to the river at a point agreed on where the canoe is to meet them again
tomorrow morning. This evening we had what I call an excellent supper it
consisted of a marrowbone a piece and a brisket of boiled Elk that had the
appearance of a little fat on it. this for Fort Clatsop is living in high
stile. In this neighbourhood I observe the honeysuckle common in our
country I first met with it on the waters of the Kooskooske near the
Chopunnish nation, and again below the grand rappids In the Columbian
Valley on tidewater. The Elder also common to our country grows in great
abundance in the rich woodlands on this side of the rocky Mountains; tho
it differs Here in the colour of it's berry, this being of a pale sky blue
while that of the U States is a deep perple. The seven bark or nine-bark
as it is called in the U States is also common in this quarter. There is a
species of huckleberry common to the piny lands from the commencement of
the Columbian valley to the seacoast; it rises to the hight of 6 or 8
feet. is a simple branching some what defuse stem; the main body or trunk
is cilindric and of a dark brown, while the colateral branches are green
smooth, squar, and put forth a number of alternate branches of the same
colour and form from the two horizontal sides only. the fruit is a small
deep perple berry which the natives inform us is very good. the leaf is
thin of a pale green and small being 3/4 of an inch in length and 3/8 in
width; oval terminateing more accutely at the apex than near the insertion
of the footstalk which is at the base; veined, nearly entire, serrate but
so slightly so that it is scarcely perceptible; footstalk short and there
position with rispect to each other is alternate and two ranked,
proceeding from the horizontal sides of the bough only. The small pox has
distroyed a great number of the natives in this quarter. it prevailed
about 4 years since among the Clatsops and distroy several hundred of
them, four of their chiefs fell victyms to it's ravages. those Clatsops
are deposited in their canoes on the bay a few miles below us. I think the
late ravages of the small pox may well account for the number of remains
of vilages which we find deserted on the river and Sea coast in this
quarter.
[Clark, February 7, 1806]
Friday February 7th 1806 This evening Serjt Ordway and wiser returned with
a part of the meat which R. Field had killed; the balance of the Party
with Serjt. Gass remained in order to bring the ballance of the meat to
the river at a point agreeed on, where the Canoe is to meet them again
tomorrow morning. This evening we had what I call an excellent supper it
consisted of a marrowbone, a piece of brisket of boiled Elk that had the
appearance of a little fat on it. this for Fort Clatsop is liveing in high
Stile, and in fact fiesting-.
In this neighbourhood I observe the honeysuckle common in the U States, I
first met with it on the waters of the Kooskooske near the Chopunnish
Nation, and again below the grand rapids in the Columbian Vally on tide
water. The Elder also common to our Countrey grows in great abundance in
the rich wood land on this Side of the rocky mountains, tho it differs
here in the Colour of its berry, this being of a pale Sky blue while that
of the U, States is a deep purple. The Seven or nine bark as it is called
in the U, States is also Common in this quarter. There is a Species of
huckkleberry Common to the piney lands from the Commencement of the
Columbian Vally to the Sea coast; it rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet, is
a Simple branching, Somewhat defused Stem; the main body or trunk is
cilindric branches are green Smothe squar, and put foth a number of
alternet branches of the Same Colour and form from the two horizontal
Sides only. the frute is a small deep purple berry which the nativs inform
us is very good, the leaf is thin of a pale green and Small being 3/4 of
an inch in length and 3/8 in width; oval terminateing more accoutely at
the apax, than near the insersion of the footstalk which is at the base
vened nearly entire; footstalks Short and their position in respect to
each other is alternate and too ranked, proceeding from the horizontal
Side of the bough only.
The Small Pox had distroyed a great number of the nativs in this quarter.
it provailed about 4 or 5 yrs Sinc among the Clatsops, and distroy'd
Several hundreds of them, four of their Chiefs fell a victym to it's
ravages. these Clatsops are Deposited in their Canoes on the bay a fiew
miles below us. I think the late ravages of the Small Pox, may well
account for the number of remains of villages which I Saw on my rout to
the Kil a mox in Several places-.
[Lewis, February 8, 1806]
Saturday February 8th 1806. Sent Sergt. Ordway and two men this morning to
join the party with Sergt. Gass and bring the ballance of R. Fields's Elk.
in the evening they returned with the balance of the flesh of five Elk,
that of one of them having become tainted and unfit for uce. late in the
evening Sergt. Pryor returned with Shannon Labuish and his party down the
Netul. they brought with them the flesh of 4 Elk which those two hunters
had killed. we have both dined and suped on Elk's tongues and marrow
bones.
I have discovered that the shrub and fruit discribed on the 26th of
January is not that which the Indians call the Shal-lon, but that is such
as is there discribed, and the berry is estemed and used by the natives as
there mentioned except that it is not like the shallon, baked in large
loaves, but is simply dryed in the sun for winter uce, when they either
eat them in thir dryed state or boil them in water. The Shallon is the
production of a shrub which I have heretofore taken to be a speceis of
loral and mentioned as abounding in this neighbourhood and that the Elk
fed much on it's leaves. it generally rises to the hight of 3 feet but not
unusually attains to that of 5 feet. it grows very thick and is from the
size of a goos quill to that of a man's thumb, celindric, the bark of the
older or larger part of the stock is of a redish brown colour while that
of the younger branches and succulent shoots are red where most exposed to
the sun and green elsewhere. the stem is simple branching reclining, and
partially fluxouse, or at least the smaler stocks or such parts of them
and the boughs as produce the leaves, take a different direction at the
insertion of every petiole. the leaf is oval four & 3/4 inches in
length and 21/2 in width. petiolate, the petiole short only 3/8th of an
inch in length, celindric with a slight channel on it's upper side where
it is generally red; undivided or entire, slightly serrate, the apex
termineating in an accute point; the upper disk of a glossey deep green,
the under disk of a pale green; veined. the leaves are also alternate and
two ranked. the root is horizontal puting forth perpendicular radicles.
this shrub is an evergreen. the fruit is a deep perple berry about the
size of a buck short or common black cherry, of an ovate form tho reather
more bluntly pointed, than at the insertion of the peduncle; at the
extremity, the thin coloured membranous pellicle, which forms the surface
of the pericarp, is divided into five accute angular points, which meet in
the center, and contains a soft pulp of the same colour invelloping a
great number of small brown kidney formed seeds. each berry is supported
by a seperate celindric peduncle of half an inch in length; these to the
number of ten or twelve issue from a common peduncle or footstalk which is
fuxouse and forms the termination of the twig of the present years growth;
each peduncle supporting a berry is furnished with one oblong bracte
placed at it's insertion on the common footstalk which when the fruit is
ripe withers with the peduncle.
[Clark, February 8, 1806]
Saturday February 8th 1806 Sent Serjt. Ordway and two men this morning to
joint the party with Serjt. Gass, and bring the ballance of R. Field's
Elk. in the evening they returned with the ballance of the flesh of five
Elk, that of one of them having become tainted and unfit for use. late in
the evening Serjt. Pryor returned with Shannon Labieshe and his party down
the Netul. they brought with them the flesh of 4 Elk which those two
hunters had killed.
we have both Dined and Suped on Elks tongues and marrowbones. a great
Luxury for Fort Clatsop.
The Shat lon is a production of Shrub which I have taken heretofore to be
a Species of Loral and mentioned as abounding in this neighbourhood, and
that the Elk feed much on its leaves. it generally rises to the hight of 3
feet, and not unusially attain to that of 5 feet. it grows very thick and
is from the size of that of a goose quil to that of a mans thumb,
Celendric. the bark of the older or larger part of the Stalk is of a
redish brown Colour, whilst that of the younger branches & succulent
Shoots are red where most exposed to the Sun and green elsewhere. the Stem
is Simple branching, reclineing and partially fuxouse, or at least the
Smaller Stalks or Such parts of them and their boughs which produce the
leaves, take a different direction at the insertion of every petiole. A,
A, the leaves as they grow from the Stalk B. B. B the Stalk between each
leaf.
The leaf is oval 4 and 3/4 inches in length, and 2 and a half in width.
petiolate, the potiale Short only 3/8 of an inch in length cilindric with
a Slight Channel on its upper Side where it is generally red; undevided,
or entire, Slightly serrate, the apex termonateing in an accute point; the
upper disk of a glossy deep Green, the under disk of a pail Green, veined.
the leaves are also alternate and two ranked. the root is horozontal,
putting foth pirpendicular radicles. This Shrub is an evergreen. the frute
is a deep purple berry about the Size of a buck Shot or common black
cherry, of an ovale form, tho reather more bluntly pointed than at the
insertion of the peduncle, at the extremity, the thin coloured membranus
pellicle, which forms the Surfice of the paricarp, is divided into 4
anguar points, which meet at the Center, and Contains a Soft pulp of the
Same Colour invelloping a great number of Small brown kidney formed
Seedeach berry is Supported by a Seperate celindric peduncle of half an
inch in length, these to the number of 10 or 12 issue from a common
peduncle of footstalk which forms the termination of the twig of the
present years groth; each peduncle Supporting a berry is furnished with
one oblong bracte placed at it's insertion on the common footstalk, which
when the frute is ripe withers with the peduncle-.
[Lewis, February 9, 1806]
Sunday February 9th 1806 This morning Collins and Wiser set out on a
hunting excurtion; they took our Indian canoe and passed the Netul a
little above us. in the evening Drewyer returned; had killed nothing but
one beaver. he saw one black bear, which is the only one which has been
seen in this neighbourhood since our arrival; the Indians inform us that
they are abundant but are now in their holes.
in the marshy ground frequently overflown by the tides there grows a
species of fir which I take to be the same of No. 5 which it resembles in
every particular except that it is more defusely branched and not so
large, being seldom more than 30 feet high and 18 inches or 2 feet in
diameter; it's being more defusely branched may proceed from it's open
situation seldom growing very close. the cone is 21/2 inches in length and
33/4 in it's greatest circumpherence, which is near it's base, and from
which it tapers regularly to a point. it is formed of imbricated scales of
a bluntly rounded form, thin not very firm and smoth. a thin leaf is
inserted into the pith of the cone, which overlays the center of and
extends 1/2 an inch beyond the point of each scale. the form of this leaf
is somewhat thus overlaying one of the imbricated scales.
The stem of the black alder of this country before mentioned as arriving
to great size, is simply branching and defuse. the bark is smooth of a
light colour with white coloured spreading spots or blotches, resembling
much that of the beech; the leaf fructification &c is precisely that
of the common alder of our country. these trees grow seperately from
different roots and not in clusters or clumps as those of the Atlantic
states. fearing that our meat would spoil we set six men to jurking it.
[Clark, February 9, 1806]
Sunday February 9th 1806 This morning Collins & Wiser Set out on a
hunting excurtion; in the evening Drewyer returned; had Killed nothing but
one Beaver. he Saw one black Bear, which is the only one which has been
seen in the neighbourhood Since our arrival. the Indians inform us that
they are abundant but are now in their holes.
In the marshey grounds frequently overflown by the tides there grows a
Species of fir which I took to be the Same of No. 5. from examonation I
find it a distinct species of fir. it is more perfusely branched. This
tree Seldom rises to a greater hight than 35 or 40 feet and is from 2 to 4
feet in Diamieter; the Bark the Same with that of No. 1. only reather more
rugid. the leaf is acerose, 2/10 of an inch in width and 3/4 in length,
they are firm Stiff and Somewhat accuminated, ending in a Short pointed
hard tendril, gibbous thickly scattered on all Sides of the bough as
respects the 3 upper Sides only; those which have their insertion on the
underside incline side — wise with their points upwards giveing the
leaf the Shape of a Sythe. the others are perpindicular or pointing
upwards, growing as in No. 1 from Small triangular pedestals of a Soft
Spungy elastic bark. the under disk of these leaves or that which grows
nearest to the Base of the bough is of a dark glossy green, while the
upper or opposit side is of a whiteish pale green; in this respect
differing from almost all leaves. The boughs retain their leaves as far
back as almost to the Sixth year's groth. the peculiarity of the budscales
observed in No. 1 is obsd. in this Species. The Cone is 31/2 Inches in
length, and 3 in circumfranse, of an ovale figure being thickest in the
middle and tapering and terminateing in two obtuce points. it composes
several flexable, thin, obtusely jointed Smoth and redish brown imbricated
scales. each scale Covering two small winged Seed and being itself Covered
in the center by a small thin inferior scale accutely pointed. The Cone is
Some what of this figure. they proceed from the sides as well as the
extremities of the bough, but in the former case allways at or near the
Commencement of Some one years groth which in Some instances are as far
back as the third year
The Stem of the Black Alder of this countrey before mentioned as ariveing
at great Size, is Simple branching and defuse. the bark is Smoth of a
light Colour with white Coloured Spredding Spots or blotches, resembling
much that of beech. the leaf is procisely that of the Common alder of the
United States or Virginia. those trees grow Seperately from different
roots and not in Clusters or Clumps, as those of the atlantic States,
casts its folage about the 1st of December.
Fearing that our meat would Spoil we Set Six men to jurking it to day,
which they are obliged to perform in a house under shelter from the
repeated rains.
[Lewis, February 10, 1806]
Monday February 10th 1806. Drewyer visited his traps today but caught no
beaver. Collins and Wiser returned had killed no Elk. Willard arrived late
in the evening from the Saltworks, had cut his knee very badly with his
tommahawk. he had killed four Elk not far from the Salt works the day
before yesterday, which he had butched and took a part of the meat to
camp, but having cut his knee was unable to be longer ucefull at the works
and had returned. he informed us that Bratton was very unwell, and that
Gibson was so sick that he could not set up or walk alone and had desired
him to ask us to have him brought to the Fort. Coalter also returned this
evening. continue the operation of drying our meat.
There is a tree common to the Columbia river below the entrance of
cataract river which in it's appearance when divested of it's foliage,
much resembles the white ash; the appearance of the wood and bark is also
that of the ash. it's stem is simple branching and diffuse. the leaf is
petiolate, plane, scattered, palmate lobate, divided by four deep sinuses;
the lobes are repand, or terminate in from 3 to 5 accute angular points,
while their margins are indented with irregular and somewhat circular
incissures. the petiole is celendric smooth and 7 inches long. the leaf 8
inches in length and 12 in bredth. this tree is frequently 3 feet in
diameter and rises to 40 or 50 feet high. the fruit is a winged seed
somewhate like the maple. in the same part of the country there is also
another growth which resembles the white maple in it's appearance, only
that it is by no means so large; seldom being more than from 6 to 9 inches
in diamater, and from 15 to 20 feet high; they frequently grow in clusters
as if from the same bed of roots spreading and leaning outwards. the twigs
are long and slender. the stems simple branching. the bark smooth and in
colour resembling that of the white maple. the leaf is petiolate, plane,
scattered nearly circular, with it's margin cut with accute angular
incissures of an inch in length and from six to 8 in number the accute
angular points formed by which incissures are crenate, or cut with small
accute angular incissures. or in this form. it is 3 inches in length, and
4 in width. the petiole celindric smooth and one and a 1/4 inches long.
the fruit or flower not known.
[Clark, February 10, 1806]
Monday February 10th 1806 Collins and Wiser returned without killing any
Elk. Willard arrived late this evening from the Salt Camp, he had cut his
knee very badly with his tomahawk. he had killed four Elk not far from the
Salt Camp, the day before yesterday, which he had butchered and took a
part of the meat to the Camp, but haveing Cut his Knee was unable to be
longer Servisable at the works & had returned. he informed us that
Bratten was very unwell, and that Gibson was So Sick that he could not Set
up or walk alone, and had desired him to ask us to have him brought to the
Fort. Colter also returnd. this evening. continue the opperation of dryin
our meat.
There is a tree common to the Columbia river below the enterance of
Cataract River which in its appearance when divested of its folage, much
resembles the white ash; the appearance of the wood and bark is also that
of the ash. it's Stem is Simple branching and diffuse. the lief is
petiolate, plane, scattered palmate lobate, divided by four deep Sinusus;
the lobes are repand or terminate in from 3 to 5 accute angular points,
while their margins are indented with irregular and Somewhat Circular
incissures. the peteole is Celindric Smoth and 7 inches long. the leaf 8
inches in length and 12 in bredth. this tree is frequently 2 & 3 feet
in diamieter, and rises to 50 or 60 feet high-the froot is a winged Seed
Somewhat like the maple. In the Same part of the countrey there is also
another groth, which resembles the white maple in its appearance, only
that it is by no means so large, seldom being more than from 6 to 9 inches
in diamieter, and from 20 to 30 feet high; they frequently grow in
clusters as if from the same bed or root, Spreading and leaning outwards.
the twigs are long and Slender. the Stems simple branching. the bark Smoth
and in Colour resembles that of the white maple. the leaf is patiolate,
plain, scattered nearly circular, with it's margin cut with accute anglar
incissures of an inch in length and from 6 to 8 in number, the accute
angular points formed, by which incissures, are crenate, or cut with small
angular incissures. or in this form. it is 3 inches in length, and 4 in
width. the petiole is cilendric smoth and 11/4 inches long. the froot or
flour I have not as yet found out &c.
[Lewis, February 11, 1806]
Tuesday February 11th 1806. This morning Sergt. Gass Reubin Fields and
Thompson passed the Netul opposite to us on a hunting expedition. sent
Sergt Pryor with a party of four men to bring Gibson to the fort. also
sent Colter and Wiser to the Salt works to carry on the business with
Joseph Fields; as Bratton had been sick we desired him to return to the
Fort also if he thought proper; however in the event of his not coming
Wiser was directed to return.
There is a shrub which grows commonly in this neighbourhood which is
precisely the same with that in Virginia some times called the quillwood.
also another which grows near the water in somewhat moist grounds &
rises to the hight of 5 or 6 feet with a large, peteolate spreading plane,
crenate and somewhat woolly leaf like the rose raspberry. it is much
branched the bark of a redish brown colour and is covered with a number of
short hooked thorns which renders it extreemly disagreeable to pass among;
it dose not cast it's foliage untill about the 1st of December. this is
also the case with the black alder. There is also found in this
neighbourhood an evergreen shrub which I take to be another variety of the
Shallun and that discribed under that name in mistake on the 26th of
January. this shrub rises to the hight of from four to five feet, the stem
simple branching, defuse and much branched. the bark is of a redish dark
brown, that of the mane stein is somewhat rough while that of the boughs
is smooth. the leaves are petiolate the petiole 1/40 of an inch long;
oblong, obtuse at the apex and accute angular at the insertion of the
petiole; 3/4 of an inch in length and Ysths in width; convex, somewhat
revolute, serrate, smoth and of a paler green than the evergreens usually
are; they are also opposite and ascending. the fruit is a small deep
perple berry like the common huckleberry of a pleasent flavor. they are
seperately scattered & attatched to the small boughs by short
peduncles.. the natives eat this berry when ripe but seldom collect it in
such quantities as to dry it for winter uce.
[Clark, February 11, 1806]
Tuesday February 11th 1806. This Morning Serjt. Gass R. Field and J.
Thompson passed the Netul opposit to us on a hunting expedition. Sent
Serjeant Natl. Pryor with 4 men in a Canoe to bring gibson to the Fort.
also Sent Colter & P. Weser to the Salt works to carry on the business
with Jos. Field; as bratten is also Sick we derected that he Should return
to the fort if he continued unwell; There is Shrub which grows Commonly in
this neighbourhood which grows on the Steep Sides of the hills and also in
low moist grounds, and rise to the hight of 5 or 6 feet with a large
peteolate, Spreading plain crenate and Somewhat woolly leaf like the rose
raspberry. it is much branched the bark of a redish brown colour and is
covered with a number of Short hooked thorns which renders it extreamly
disagreeable to pass among, it does not cast its foliage untill about the
1st of December.
There is a Species of bryor which is common in this neighbourhood of a
green colour which grows most abundant in the rich dry lands near the
water courses, but is also found in Small quantities in the piney lands at
a distance from the water Courses in the former Situations the Stem is
frequently the Size of a mans finger and rise perpendicularly to the hight
of 4 or 5 feet when it decends in an arch and becoms procumbent or rests
on Some neighbouring plant or Srubs; it is Simple unbranched and
celindric; in the latter Situation it is much Smaller, and usially
procumbent. the Stem is armed with Sharp and hooked bryors. the leaf is
peteolate, ternate and resembles in Shape and appearance that of the
purple Raspberry common to the atlantic States. The frute is a berry
resembling the Blackberry in every respect and is eaten when ripe and much
esteemed by the nativs but is not dryed for winters Consumption. in the
Countrey about the enterance of the quick Sand rivers I first discovered
this bryor, it grows So abundantly in the furtile Vally of Columbia and on
the Islands in that part of the river, that the Countrey near the river is
almost impenitrable in maney places. This green Bryor retains its leaf or
foliage and virdue untill late in December. The Briory bush with a wide
leaf is also one of its ascociates.
[Lewis, February 12, 1806]
Wednesday February 12th 1806. This morning we were visited by a Clatsop
man who brought with him three dogs as a remuneration for the Elk which
him self and nation had stolen from us some little time since, how ever
the dogs took the alarm and ran off; we suffered him to remain in the fort
all night.
There are two species of ever green shrubs which I first met with at the
grand rappids of the Columbia and which I have since found in this
neighbourhood also; they grow in rich dry ground not far usually from some
watercourse. the roots of both species are creeping and celindric. the
stem of the 1st is from a foot to 18 inches high and as large as a
goosqull; it is simple unbranced and erect. it's leaves are cauline,
compound and spreading. the leafets are jointed and oppositely pinnate, 3
pare & terminating in one, sessile, widest at the base and tapering to
an accuminated point, an inch and a quarter the greatest width, and 3
inches & a 1/4 in length. each point of their crenate margins armed
with a subulate thorn or spine and are from 13 to 17 in number. they are
also veined, glossy, carinated and wrinkled; their points obliquely
pointing towards the extremity of the common footstalk. — The stem of
the 2nd is procumbent abot the size of the former, jointed and unbranched.
it's leaves are cauline, compound and oppositely pinnate; the rib from 14
to 16 inches long celindric and smooth. the leafets 21/2 inches long and 1
inch wide. greatest width 1/2 inch from their base, to which they are
regularly rounded, and from the same point tapering to an accute apex,
wich is mostly, but not invariably tirminated with a small subulate thorn.
they are jointed and oppositely pinnate, consisting of 6 pare and
terminating in one, sessile serrate, or like the teeth of a whipsaw, each
point terminating in a small subulate spine, being from 25 to 27 in
number; veined, smooth, plane and of a deep green, their points tending
obliquely towards the extremity of the rib or common footstalk. I do not
know the fruit or flower of either. the 1st resembles the plant common to
many parts of the U States called the mountain holley.
[Clark, February 12, 1806]
Wednesday February 12th 1806. This morning we were visited by a Clatsop
man who brought with him three dogs as a remuneration for the Elk which
himself and Nation had Stolen from us Some little time Sence, however the
dogs took the alarm and ran off; we suffered him to remain in the fort all
night.
There are two Species of evergreen Shrubs. this is the leaf of one which I
first met with at the grand rapids of the Columbia River, and which I have
sence found in this neighbourhood also; they usially grow in rich dry
ground not far from Some water course. the roots of both Species are
creeping and celindric. the Stem of the first (as above) is from a foot to
18 inches high and as large as a Goose quil; it is Simple and erect. its
leaves are cauline, and Spredding. the leafits are jointed & oppositly
poinnate 3 par and termonateing in one, cessile widest at the base and
tapering to an accuminated point, an inch and 1/4 the greatest width;
& 31/4 inches in length. each point of their crenate margins armed
with a thorn or Spine, and are from 13 to 17 in number. they are also
veined, glossy, corinated and wrinkled; their points obliquely pointing
towards the extremity of the Common footstalk.
The Stem of the 2nd is procumbent about the Size of the former, jointed
and umbracated. it's leaves are Cauline, compound and oppositly pointed;
the rib from 14 to 16 inches long Celendric and Smooth the leafits 21/2
inches long and 1 inch wide. the greatest width 1/2 inch from their base
which they are regularly rounded, and from the Same point tapering to an
accute apex, which is mostly but not entirely termonated with a Small
Subulate thorn. they are jointed & oppositly pointed consisting of 6
par and termonateing in one (in this form) sessile, Serrate, or like the
teeth of a whipsaw, each point terminateing in a small subulate spine,
being from 25 to 27 in numbr; veined, Smoth, plane and of a deep green,
their points tending obliquely towards the extremity of the rib or common
footstalk. I do not know the fruit or flower of either. the 1st resembles
a plant Common to maney parts of the United States Called the Mountain
Holly
[Lewis, February 13, 1806]
Thursday February 13th 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M.
not any thing transpired during the day worthy of notice. yesterday we
completed the operation of drying the meat, and think we have a sufficient
stock to last us this month. the Indians inform us that we shall have
great abundance of a small fish in March which from their discription must
be the herring. these people have also informed us that one More who
sometimes touches at this place and trades with the natives of this coast,
had on board of his vessel three Cows, and that when he left them he
continued his course along the N. W. coast. I think this strong
circumstancial proof that there is a stettlement of white persons at
Nootka sound or some point to the N. W. of us on the coast.
There is a species of bryer which is common in this neighbourhood of a
green colour which grows most abundant in the rich dry lands near the
watercourses, but is also found in small quantities in the piny lands at a
distance from the watercourses in the former situation the stem is
frequently the size of a man's finger and rises perpendicularly to the
hight of 4 or 5 feet when it decends in an arch and becomes procumbent or
rests on some neighbouring plants or shrubs; it is simple unbranched and
celindric; in the latter situation it is much smaller and usually
procumbent. the stem is armed with sharp and hooked bryers. the leaf is
peteolate ternate and resembles in shape and appearance that of the perple
raspberry common to the Atlantic states. the fruit is a berry resembling
the black berry in every rispect and is eaten when ripe and much esteemed
by the natives but is not dryed for winter consumption. in the country
about the entrance of the quicksand river I first discovered this bryer.
it groows so abundantly in the fertile valley of Columbia and the Islands
in that part of the river that the country near the river is almost
impenitrable in many places. the briary bush with a wide leaf is also one
of it's ascociates. the green bryer retains it's foliage and verdure
untill late in December. — There are also two species of firn which
are common to this country beside that formerly discribed of which the
natives eat the roots. these from their disparity in point of size I shall
designate the large and small firn. both species continue green all
winter. — The large farn, rises to the height of 3 or four feet the
stem is a common footstalk or rib which proceedes immediately from the
radix wich is somewhat flat on two sides about the size of a man's arm and
covered with innumerable black coarce capillary radicles which issue from
every pat of it's surface; one of those roots or a collected bed of them
will send fourth from twenty to forty of those common footstalks all of
which decline or bend outwards from the common center. these ribs are
cylindric and marked longitudinally their whole length with a groove or
channel on their upper side. on either side of this grove a little below
it's edge, the leafets are inserted, being shortly petiolate for about 2/3
ds of the length of the middle rib commencing at the bottom and from
thence to the extremity sessile. the rib is terminated by a single
undivided lanceolate gagged leafet. the leafets are lanceolate, from 2 to
4 inches in length gagged and have a small accute angular projection on
the upper edge near the base where it is spuar on the side which has the
projection and obliquely cut at the base on the other side of the rib of
the leafet. or which will give a better idea in this form. the upper
surface is Smooth and of a deep green the under disk of a pale green and
covered with a brown bubersence of a woolly appearance particularly near
the cental fiber or rib. these leafets are alternately pinnate. they are
in number from 110 to 140; shortest at the two extremities of the common
footstalk and longest in the center, graduly lengthening and deminishing
as they succeed each other.
The small firn also rises with a common footstalk from the radix and are
from four to eight in number. about 8 inches long; the central rib marked
with a slight longitudinal groove throughout it's whole length. the
leafets are oppositely pinnate about 1/3 rd of the length of the common
footstalk from the bottom and thence alternately pinnate; the footstalk
terminating in a simple undivided nearly entire lanceolate leafet. the
leafets are oblong, obtuse, convex absolutely entire, marked on the upper
disk with a slight longitudinal groove in place of the central rib, smooth
and of a deep green. near the upper extremity these leafets are
decursively pinnate as are also those of the large f rn. The grasses of
this neighbourhood are generally coase harsh and sedge-like, and grow in
large tufts. there is none except in the open grounds. near the coast on
the tops of some of the untimbered hills there is a finer and softer
species which resembles much the green swoard. the salt marshes also
produce a coarse grass, Bull rushes and the Cattail flagg. the two last
the natives make great use in preparing their mats bags &c.
[Clark, February 13, 1806]
Tuesday February 13th 1806. The Clatsop left us this morning at 11 A.M.
not anything transpired dureing the day worthy of notice. yesterday we
completed the opperation of drying the meat, and think we have a
Sufficient Stock to last us this month. the Indians inform us that we
shall have great abundance of Small fish in March. which from the
discription must be the Herring. Those people have also informed us that
one Moore who sometimes touches at this place and traded with the nativs
of this Coast, had on board his Ship 3 Cows, and that when he left them he
continued his course along the N W. Coast. I think this (if those Cows
were not Coats) Strong circumstantial proof that their is a Settlement of
white persons at Nootka Sound or Some place to the N W. of us on the
coast.
There are also two Species of firn which are common to this Countrey
besides that before mentioned of which the nativs eate the roots. these
two from their disparity in point of Size I shall distinguish the large
and Small firn. both species continue green all winter
The large fern, rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet, the Stem is a Common
footstalk or rib which proceeds imediately from the radix which is
Somewhat flat on two Sides about the Size of a man's arm and covered with
innumerable black coarse capillary radicles which issue from every part of
its surface; one of those roots or a collected bead of them will Send
forth from 20 to 40 of those Common footstalks all of which decline or
bend outwards from the Common center. those ribs are cylindric and marked
longitudinally their whole length with a groove or channel on their upper
Side. on either Side of this groove a little below it's edge, the leafets
are inserted, being partly petiolate for about 2/3ds of the length of the
middle rib, commenceing at the bottom and from thence to the extremity
Sessile. the rib is termonated by a Single undevided lanceolate gagged
leafet. the leafets are lanceolate, from 2 to 4 inches in length gagged
and have a Small accute angular projection and obliquely cut at the base
on either Side of the rib of the leafet. upper Surface is Smooth and of a
deep Green, the under disk of a pale Green and covered with a brown
Substance of a woolly appearance particalarly near the center fiber or rib
these leafets are alternately pointed they are in number from 110 to 140;
shortest at the two extremities of the common footstalk and longest in the
center, gradually lengthing and diminishing as they Suckceed each other
The Small firn also rises with a Common footstalk from the radix and are
from 4 to 8 in number, about 8 inches long; the Central rib marked with a
Slight longitudinal Groove through out it's whole length. the leafets are
oppositly pinnate about A of the length of the Common footstalk from the
bottom and thence alternately pinnate; the footstalk termonating in a
Simple undevided nearly entire lanceolate leafet. the leafets are oblong,
obtuse, convex absolutely entire, marked on the upper disk with a Slight
longitudinal grove in place of the central rib, smooth and of a deep
green; near the upper extremity those lefets are decurscivily pinnate as
are also those of the larg firn.
The Grass's of this neighbourhood are generally coarse harsh and Sedge
like, and grow in large tufts. there is none except in the open grounds.
near the Coast on the top of Some of the untimbered hills there is a finer
and Softer Species which resembles much the Greensword. the Salt marshes
also produce a Corse grass, Bullrushes and the Cattail flaggs. of the two
last the nativs make great use in prepareing their mats bags &c. in
those bags they Carry their fish Berries roots &c.
[Lewis, February 14, 1806]
Friday February 14th 1806. We are very uneasy with rispect to our sick men
at the salt works. Sergt. Pryor and party have not yet returned nor can we
conceive what causes their delay. Drewyer visited his traps today and
caught a very fine fat beaver on which we feasted this evening. on the
11th inst. Capt Clark completed a map of the country through which we have
been passing from Fort Mandan to this place. in this map the Missouri
Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia, Kooskooske and
Columbia from the entrance of the S. E. fork to the pacific Ocean as well
as a part of Flathead river and our tract across the Rocky Mountains are
laid down by celestial observation and survey. the rivers are also
connected at their sources with other rivers agreeably to the information
of the natives and the most probable conjecture arrising from their
capacities and the relative positions of their rispective entrances which
last have with but few exceptions been established by celestial
observation. we now discover that we have found the most practicable and
navigable passage across the Continent of North America; it is that which
we traveled with the exception of that part of our rout from the
neighbourhood of the entrance of Dearborn's River untill we arrived on
Clarks river at the entrance of Traveler's rest creek; the distance
between those two points would be traveled more advantageously by land as
the navigation of the Missouri above the river Dearborn is laborious and
420 miles distant by which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are
compelled to travel by land from the source of Jefferson's river to the
entrance of Travelers rest Creek is 220 miles being further by 500 miles
than that from the entrance of Dearborn's river to the last mentioned
point and a much worse rout if Indian information is to be relyed on; from
the same information the Flathead river like that of the S. E. fork of the
Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and Maddison's Rivers can not be
navigated through the Rocky Mountains in consequence of falls &
rappids and as a confermation of this fact, we discovered that there were
no salmon in the Flathead river, which is the case in the S. E. branch of
the Columbia although it is not navigable. added to this, the Indians
further inform us, that the Flathead river runs in the direction of the
Rocky Mountains for a great distance to the North before it discharges
itself into the Columbia river, which last from the same information from
the entrance of the S. E. fork to that of Flathead river is obstructed
with a great number of difficult and dangerous rappids. considering
therefore the danger and difficulties attending the navigation of the
Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and distant rout formed
by itself and the Flathead river we conceive that even admitting the
Flathead river contrary to information to be as navigable as the Columbia
river below it's entrance, that the tract by land over the Rocky Mountains
usually traveled by the natives from the Entrance of Traveller's-rest
Creek to the forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the same being a
distance of 184 Miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from those
premices are that the best and most Practicable rout across the Continent
is by way of the Missouri to the entrance of Dearborn's river or near that
place; from thence to flathead river at the entrance of Traveller's rest
Creek, from thence up Traveller's rest creek to the forks, from whence you
pursue a range of mounttains which divides the waters of the two forks of
this creek, and which still continuing it's West wardly course divides the
waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from
thence to decend this river by water to the S. E. branch of the Columbia,
thence down that river to the Columbia and with the latter to the Pacific
Ocean.
[Clark, February 14, 1806]
Friday February 14th 1806 We are very uneasy with respect to our Sick men
at the Salt works. Serjt. Pryor and party haveing not yet returneded, nor
can we conceive what can be the Cause of their delay. Drewyer visited his
traps & to day and Cought a fine fat beaver on which we feasted this
evening and thought it a great delecessey..
I compleated a map of the Countrey through which we have been passing from
the Mississippi at the Mouth of Missouri to this place. In the Map the
Missouri Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia or Lewis's
river, Koos-koos-ke and Columbia from the enterance of the S. E fork to
the pacific Ocian, as well as a part of Clark's river and our track across
the Rocky Mountains are laid down by celestial observations and Survey.
the rivers are also conected at their Sources with other rivers agreeably
to the information of the nativs and the most probable conjecture arrising
from their capacities and the relative positions of their respective
enterances which last have with but fiew exceptions been established by
celestial observations. We now discover that we have found the most
practicable and navigable passage across the Continent of North America;
it is that which we have traveled with the exception of that part of our
rout from the foot of the Falls of the Missouri, or in neighbourhood of
the enterance of the Rocky Mountains untill we arive on Clarks river at
the enterence of Travelers-rest Creek; the distance between those two
points would be traveled more advantagiously by land as the navigation of
the Missouri above the Falls is crooked laborious and 521 miles distant by
which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are compelled to travel
by land from the Source of Jeffersons River to the enterance of Travellers
rest Creek is 220 miles being further by At. 600 miles than that from the
Falls of the Missourie to the last mentioned point (Travellers rest Creek)
and a much worse rout if indian information is to be relied on which is
from the So so nee or Snake Indians, and the Flatheads of the Columbia
west of the rocky mountains. from the Same information Clarks river like
that of the S. E. branch of the Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and
Maddisons river's can not be navagated thro the rocky mountains in
consequence of falls and rapids, and as a confirmation of the fact we
discovered that there were no Salmon in Clark's river, which is not the
Case in the S. E. branch of the Columbia altho it is not navagable. added
to this, the Indians of different quartes further inform us, that Clark's
river runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a great distance to
the north before it discharges itself into the Columbia river — -from
the Same information the Columbia from the enterance of the S. E. branch
to the enterance of Clark's river is obstructed with a great number of
dificuelt and dangerous rapids (and the place Clark's river comes out of
the Rocky mountains is a tremendious falls &c which there is no
possibillity of passing the mountains either by land or water.)
Considering therefore the dangers and deficuelties attending the
navigation of the Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and
distant rout formed by itself and that of Clark's River we Conceive that
even admitting that Clarks river contrary to information to be as
navagable as the Columbia below it's enterance, that the tract by land
over the Rocky Mountains usially traveled by the nativs from the enterance
of Travellers rest Creek to the Forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the
Same being a distance of 184 miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from
these premises are, that the best and most practicable rout across the
Continent is by way of the Missouri to the Great Falls; thence to Clarks
river at the enterance of Travellers rest Creek, from thence up travillers
rest Creek to the forks, from whence you prosue a range of mountains which
divides the waters of the two forks of this Creek, and which still
Continues it's westwardly Course on the mountains which divides the waters
of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from thence to
decend this river to the S. E. branch of the Columbia, thence down that
river to the Columbia, and down the Latter to the Pacific Ocian-. There is
a large river which falls into the Columbia on its South Side at what
point we could not lern; which passes thro those extencive Columbian
Plains from the South East, and as the Indians inform us head in the
mountains South of the head of Jeffersons River and at no great distance
from the Spanish Settlements, and that that fork which heads with the
River Rajhone and waters of the Missouri passes through those extensive
plains in which there is no wood, and the river Crowded with rapids &
falls many of which are impassable. the other or westerly fork passes near
a range of mountains and is the fork which great numbers of Indian Bands
of the So sone or Snake Indians, this fork most probably heads with North
River or the waters of Callifornia. This River may afford a practicable
land Communication with New Mexico by means of its western fork. This
river cannot be navagable as an unpracticable rapid is within one mile of
its enterance into the Columbia, and we are fully purswaded that a rout by
this river if practicable at all, would lengthen the distance greatly and
incounter the Same dificuelties in passing the Rocky Mountains with the
rout by way of Travellers rest Creek & Clarks river.
[Lewis, February 15, 1806]
Saturday February 15th 1806. Drewyer and Whitehouse set out this morning
on a hunting excurtion towards the praries of Point Adams. we have heard
our hunters over the Netul fire several shot today, but have had no
account from them as yet. about 3 P.M. Bratton arrived from the salt works
and informed us that Sergt. Pryor and party were on their way with Gibson
who is so much reduced that he cannot stand alone and that they are
obliged to carry him in a litter. Bratton himself appears much reduced
with his late indisposition but is now recovering fast. Bratton informed
that the cause of Sergt. Pryor's delay was attributeable to the winds
which had been so violent for several days as to render it impossible to
get a canoe up the creek to the point where it was necessary to pass with
Gibson. the S. W. winds are frequently very violent on the coast when we
are but little sensible of them at Fort Clatsop. in consequence of the
lofty and thickly timbered fir country which surrounds us on that quarter
from the South to the North East.
after dark Sergt. Pryor arrived with Gibson. we are much pleased in
finding him by no means as ill as we had expected. we do no conceive him
in danger by any means, tho he has yet a fever and is much reduced. we
beleive his disorder to have orriginated in a violent cold which he
contracted in hunting and pursuing Elk and other game through the swams
and marshes about the salt works. he is nearly free from pain tho a
gooddeel reduced and very languid. we gave him broken dozes of diluted
nitre and made him drink plentifully of sage tea, had his feet bathed in
warm water and at 9 P.M. gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
The quadrupeds of this country from the Rocky Mountains to the pacific
Ocean are 1st the domestic animals, consisting of the horse and the dog
only; 2cdly the native wild animals, consisting of the Brown white or
grizly bear, (which I beleive to be the same family with a mearly
accedental difference in point of colour) the black bear, the common red
deer, the black tailed fallow deer, the Mule deer, Elk, the large brown
wolf, the small woolf of the plains, the large wolf of the plains, the
tiger cat, the common red fox, black fox or fisher, silver fox, large red
fox of the plains, small fox of the plains or kit fox, Antelope, sheep,
beaver, common otter, sea Otter, mink, spuck, seal, racoon, large grey
squirrel, small brown squirrel, small grey squirrel, ground squirrel,
sewelel, Braro, rat, mouse, mole, Panther, hare, rabbit, and polecat or
skunk. all of which shall be severally noticed in the order in which they
occur as well as shuch others as I learn do exist and which not been here
recapitulated. The horse is confined principally to the nations inhabiting
the great plains of Columbia extending from Latitude 40° to 50° N. and
occuping the tract of country lying between the rocky mountains and a
range of Mountains which pass the columbia river about the great falls or
from Longitude 116 to 121 West. in this extesive tract of principally
untimbered country so far as we have leant the following nations reside
(viz) the Sosone or snake Indians, the Chopunnish, sokulks, Cutssahnims,
Chymnapums, Ehelutes, Eneshuh & Chilluckkittequaws. all of whom enjoy
the bennefit of that docile, generous and valuable anamal the horse, and
all of them except the three last have immence numbers of them. Their
horses appear to be of an excellent race; they are lofty eligantly formed
active and durable; in short many of them look like the fine English
coarsers and would make a figure in any country. some of those horses are
pided with large spots of white irregularly scattered and intermixed with
the black brown bey or some other dark colour, but much the larger portion
are of an uniform colour with stars snips and white feet, or in this
rispect marked much like our best blooded horses in virginia, which they
resemble as well in fleetness and bottom as in form and colours. the
natives suffer them to run at large in the plains, the grass of which
furnishes them with their only subsistence their masters taking no trouble
to lay in a winters store for them, but they even keep fat if not much
used on the dry grass of the plains during the winter. no rain scarcely
ever falls in these plains and the grass is short and but thin. The
natives appear to take no pains in scelecting their male horses from which
they breed, in short those of that discription which I have noticed
appeared much the most indifferent. whether the horse was orrigeonally a
native of this country or not it is out of my power to determine as we can
not understand the language of the natives sufficiently to ask the
question. at all events the country and climate appears well adapted to
this anamal. horses are said to be found wild in many parts of this
extensive plain country. the several tribes of Sosones who reside towards
Mexico on the waters of Clark's river or particularly one of them called
Sh&-bo-bo-ah have also a great number of mules, which among the
Indians I find are much more highly prized than horses. an eligant horse
may be purchased of the natives in this country for a lew peads or other
paltry trinkets which in the U States would not cost more than one or two
dollars. This abundance and cheapness of horses will be extremely
advantageous to those who may hereafter attemt the fir trade to the East
Indies by way of the Columbia river and the Pacific Ocean. — the mules
in the possession of the Indians are principally stolen from the Spaniards
of Mexeco; they appear to be large and fine such as we have seen. Among
the Sosones of the upper part of the S. E. fork of the Columbia we saw
several horses with spanish brands on them which we supposed had been
stolen from the inhabitants of Mexeco.
[Clark, February 15, 1806]
Saturday February 15th 1806 Drewyer and Whitehouse Set out on a hunting
excurtion towards the mountains Southwest of us. we have heard our hunters
over the Netul fire Several Shot today, but have had no account of them as
yet. 3 P.M. Bratten arived from the Saltworks, and informed us that Serjt.
Pryor and party were on their way with gibson in a litter. he is verry bad
and much reduced with his present indisposition. Wm. Bratten appears much
reduced, and is yet verry unwell. he informs that the Cause of Sergt.
Pryor's delay was attributiable to the winds which had been so violent for
Several days as to render it impossible to get a Canoe up the Creek to the
point where it was necessary to pass with Gibson. the S. W. winds are
frequently very violent on the coast when we are but little Sensible of
them at Fort Clatsop. in Consequence of the lofty and thickly timbered fir
country which Surrounds us from that quarter, from the South to the N.
East.. After Dark Sergt. Pryor arrived with Gibson. we are much pleased
in findeing him by no means as ill as we had expected. we do not conceive
him in danger by any means, tho he has yet a fever and is much reduced. we
believe his disorder to have originated in a violent Cold which he
contracted in hunting and prosueing Elk and other game through the Swamps
and marshes about the salt works. he is nearly free from pain tho a good
deel reduced and very languid. we gave him double doses of diluted niter
and made him drink plentifully of Sage tea, had his feat bathed in worm
water and at 9 P.M. gave him 35 drops of laudanum.
The quadrupeds of this countrey from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific
Ocian are first the Domestic Animals, consisting of the Horses and Dogs
only; 2ndly the Native Wild Animals, consisting of the White, brown, or
Grizly bear (which I believe to be the same family with a mearly
accidentail difference in point of Colour) The Black Bear, the Elk, the
Common red Deer, the Mule deer, the black tailed fallow Deer, the large
brown wolf, the Small wolf of the Plains, the large wolf of the Plains,
Panther, the tiger cat, the common red fox, the black fox or fisher, the
Silver fox, large red fox of the plains, Small fox of the plains or kit
fox, Antelope, Sheep, beaver, Common Otter, Sea Otter, minks, Seals
racoons, large Grey Squerrel, Small brown Squirrel, Small grey Squirrel,
Ground Squirrel, Sewelel, Braro, rat, mouse, mole, hare, rabbet, and pole
Cat or Skunk. all of which Shall be Severally noticed in the order in
which they occur as well as Such others as I learn do exist, and which not
been here recapitulated.
The Horse is principally Confined to the Nations inhabiting the great
Plains of Columbia extending from Latitude 40° to 50° N. and occupying the
tract of Countrey lying between the Rocky Mountains and a rang of
mountains which pass the Columbia River about the Great Falls or from
Longitude 116° to 121° West in this extensive tract of Principally
untimbered countrey So far as we have lernt the following nations reside
(viz) The Sosone, or Snake Indians inhabiting the South fork or ____
River, the Chopunnish, Sokulk's, Cutssahnims, Chym na pum, Ehelutes,
Eneshuh & Chilluckkittequaws. all of whome enjoy the benifit of that
docile generous and valueable Animal the Horse, and all of them except the
three last have emence numbers of them. their horses appear to be of an
excellent race; they are lofty eligantly formed active and durable; in
Short maney of them look like the fine English coursers and would make a
figure in any country. Some of those horses in pided with large spots of
white irrigularly scattered and intermixed with black, brown, Bey or Some
other dark colour, but much the larger portion are of a uniform Colour
with Stars, snips, and white feet, or in this respect marked much like our
best blooded horses in the U, States, which they resemble as well in
fleetness and bottom as in form and Colour. the nativs Suffer them to run
at large in the plains, the Grass of which furnish them with their only
Subsistance, their owners takeing no trouble to lay in a winters Store for
them, but they keep fat if not much used on the dry grass of the plains
dureing the winter. rain scercely ever falls in those plains and the Grass
is Short and but thin. the nativs appear to take no pains in Selecting
their male horses from which they bread, in Short those of that
discription which I have noticed appear much the most indifferent. whether
the horses was originally a native of this Country or not, it is out of my
power to determine as we cannot understand the language of the nativs
Sufficiently to ask the question. at all events the Country and Climate
appears well adapted to this Animal. Horses are Said to be found wild in
maney parts of this extensive plain Country-. The Several tribes of
Sosones who reside near Mexico on the waters of Clark's river, or
particularly one of them called Shd-bo-bo-ah have also a great number of
Mules, which among the Inds. I find are much more highly prized than
horses. an eligant horse may be purchased of the nativs in this Country
for a fiew beeds or other paltry trinkits which in the United States would
not cost more than one or two dollars. This abundance and Cheepness of
horses will be extremely advantagious to those who may hereafter attempt
the fir trade to the East Indies by way of the Columbia and the Pacific
Ocian.. The mules in the possession of the Inds. are principally Stolen
from the Spaniards of New Mexico; Such as we have Seen appear to be large
with Spanish brands. among the Sosones of the upper part of Lewis's river
we Saw Several horses with Spanish brands on them which the nativs
informed us Came from the South most probably from the Settlement in New
Mexico, on the heads of the North river or waters of the Bay of
California.
[Lewis, February 16, 1806]
Sunday February 16th 1806. By several trials made today in order to adjust
my Octant and ascertain her error in the direct observation, I found that
it was 2° 1' 45" + or additive beyond the fracture; this error was
ascertained by a comparison with my sextant the error of which had been
previously ascertained. the error of Octant in the direct observation on
the broken limb next to 0 or below 55° 20 inclusive is 2° additive only. — Sent
Shannon Labuish and Frazier this morning on a hunting excurtion up the
Kil-haw'-a-nak-kle river which discharges itself into the head of the bay.
no tidings yet of Sergt. Gass and party. Bratton is still very weak and
complains of a pain in the lower part of the back when he moves which I
suppose procedes from dability. I gave him barks. Gibson's fever still
continues obstenate tho not very high; I gave him a doze of Dr. Rush's
which in many instances I have found extreemly efficatious in fevers which
are in any measure caused by the presence of boil. the nitre has produced
a profuse perspiration this evening and the pills operated late at night
his fever after which abated almost entirely and he had a good night's
rest.
The Indian dog is usually small or much more so than the common cur. they
are party coloured; black white brown and brindle are the most usual
colours. the head is long and nose pointed eyes small, ears erect and
pointed like those of the wolf, hair short and smooth except on the tail
where it is as long as that of the curdog and streight. the natives do not
eat them nor appear to make any other use of them but in hunting the Elk
as has been before observed. — The brown white or grizly bear are
found in the rocky mountains in the timbered parts of it or Westerly side
but rarely; they are more common below the rocky Mountain on the borders
of the plains where there are copses of brush and underwood near the
watercouses. they are by no means as plenty on this side of the rocky
mountains as on the other, nor do I beleive that they are found atall in
the woody country, which borders this coast as far in the interior as the
range of mountains which, pass the Columbia between the Great Falls and
rapids of that river. the black bear differs not any from those common to
the United states and are found under the rocky Mountains in the woody
country on the borders of the great plains of columbia and also in this
tract of woody country which lie between these plains and the Pacific
Ocean. their oconimy and habits are also the same with those of the United
States.
[Clark, February 16, 1806]
Sunday February 16th 1806 Sent Shannon Labiesh and frazier on a hunting
excurtion up the Kilhaw-a-nak-kle river which discharges itself into the
head of Meriwethers Bay. no word yet of Sergt. Gass and party. Bratten is
verry weak and complains of a pain in the lower part of the back when he
moves which I suppose proceeds from debility. I gave him barks and Salt
peter. Gibsons fever Still Continues obstinate tho not verry high; we gave
him a dose of Dr. Rushes pills which in maney instancis I have found
extreamly efficasious in fevers which are in any measure Caused by the
presence of boil. the niter has produced a perfuse perspiration this
evening and the pils opperated late at night his feaver after which abated
almost intirely and he had a good nights rest.
The Indian Dogs are usually small or much more so than the common cur.
they are party coloured; black white brown and brindle are the more usual
colours. the head is long and nose pointed eyes Small, ears erect and
pointed like those of the wolf, hair Short and Smooth except on the tail
where it is as long as that of the Cur dog and streight. the nativs do not
eate them, or make any further use of them than in hunting the Elk as has
been before observed. Shannon an Labiesh brought in to us to day a Buzzard
or Vulture of the Columbia which they had wounded and taken alive. I
believe this to be the largest Bird of North America. it was not in good
order and yet it wayed 25 lbs had it have been so it might very well have
weighed 10 lbs. more or 35 lbs. between the extremities of the wings it
measured 9 feet 2 Inches; from the extremity of the beak to that of the
toe 3 feet 9 inches and a half. from hip to toe 2 feet, girth of the head
9 inches 3/4. Girth of the neck 71/2 inches; Girth of the body exclusive
of the wings 2 feet 3 inches; girth of the leg 3 inches. the diameter of
the eye 41/2 10ths of an inch, the iris of a pale scarlet red, the puple
of a deep Sea green or black and occupies about one third of the diameter
of the eye the head and part of the neck as low as the figures 12 is
uncovered with feathers except that portion of it represented by dots
foward and under the eye. (See likeness on the other Side of this leaf)
the tail is Composed of twelve feathers of equal length, each 14 inches.
the legs are 43/4 inches in length and of a whitefish colour uncovered
with feathers, they are not entirely Smooth but not imbricated; the toes
are four in number three of which are foward and that in the center much
the longest; the fourth is Short and is inserted near the inner of the
three other toes and reather projecting foward. the thye is covered with
feathers as low as the Knee. the top or upper part of the toes are
imbricated with broad scales lying transversly; the nails are black and in
proportion to the Size of the bird comparitively with those of the Hawk or
Eagle, Short and bluntly pointed — -the under Side of the wing is
Covered with white down and feathers. a white Stripe of about 2 inches in
width, also marks the outer part of the wing, imbraceing the lower points
of the feathers, which cover the joints of the wing through their whole
length or width of that part of the wing. all the other feathers of
whatever part are of a Glossy Shineing black except the down, which is not
glossy, but equally black. the Skin of the beak and head to the joining of
the neck is of a pale orrange Yellow, the other part uncovered with
feathers is of a light flesh Colour. the Skin is thin and wrinkled except
on the beak where it is Smooth. This bird fly's very clumsily. nor do I
know whether it ever Seizes it's prey alive, but am induced to believe it
does not. we have Seen it feeding on the remains of the whale and other
fish which have been thrown up by the waves on the Sea Coast. these I
believe constitute their principal food, but I have no doubt but that they
also feed on flesh. we did not meet with this bird untille we had decended
the Columbia below the great falls; and have found them more abundant
below tide water than above. this is the Same Species of Bird which R.
Field killed on the 18th of Novr. last and which is noticed on that day
tho not fully discribed then I thought this of the Buzzard Specis. I now
believe that this bird is reather of the Vulture genus than any other, tho
it wants Some of their characteristics particularly the hair on the neck,
and the feathers on the legs. this is a handsom bird at a little distance.
it's neck is proportionably longer than those of the Hawks or Eagle.
Shannon also brought a Grey Eagle which appeared to be of the Same kind
common to the U, States. it weighed 15 pds. and measured 7 feet 7 inches
between the extremities of the wings
Shannon and Labiesh informed us that when he approached this Vulture after
wounding it, that it made a loud noise very much like the barking of a
Dog. the tongue is long firm and broad, filling the under Chap and
partakeing of its transvirs curvature, or its Sides forming a longitudinal
Groove; obtuse at the point, the margin armed with firm cartelagenous
prickkles pointed and bending inwards.
[Lewis, February 17, 1806]
Monday February 17th 1806. Collins and Windsor were permited to hunt today
towards the praries in Point Adams with a view to obtain some fresh meat
for the sick. a little before noon Shannon LaBuishe & Frazier returned
with the flesh and hide of an Elk which had been wouded by Sergt. Gass's
party and took the water where they pursued it and caught it. they did not
see Sergt. Gass or any of his party nor learn what further success they
had had. continue the barks with Bratton, and commenced them with Gibson
his fever being sufficiently low this morning to permit the uce of them. I
think therefore that there is no further danger of his recovery. — at
2 P.M. Joseph Fields arrived from the Salt works and informed us that they
had about 2 Kegs of salt on hand which with what we have at this place we
suppose will be sufficient to last us to our deposits of that article on
the Missouri. we there directed a party of six men to go with Fields in
the morning in order to bring the salt and kettles to the fort. Shannon
brought me one of the large carrion Crow or Buzzads of the Columbia which
they had wounded and taken alive. I bleive this to be the largest bird of
North America. it was not in good order and yet it weighed 25 lbs. had it
have been so it might very well have weighed 10 lbs mor or 35 lbs. between
the extremities of the wings it measured 9 feet 2 inches; from the
extremity of the beak to that of the toe 3 F. 91/2 In. from hip to toe 2
feet, girth of head 93/4 In. girth of the neck 71/2 Inches; do. of body
exclusive of the wings 2 feet 3 Inches; do of leg 3 inches. diameter of
the eye 41/2/toths of an inch. the iris of a pale scarlet red, the puple
of deep sea green or black and occupyed about one third of the diameter of
the eye. the head and a part of the neck as low as the figures 12 is
uncovered with feathers except that portion of it represented by dots (see
likeness). the tail is composed of 12 feathers of equal length, each 14
inches. the legs are 43/4 inches in length and of a white colour un
covered with feathers, they are not entirely smooth but not imbricated;
the toes are four in number three of which are forward and that in the
center much the longes; the fourth is short and is inserted near the inner
of the three other toes and reather projecting forward. the thye is
covered with feathers as low as the knee. the top or upper part of the
toes are imbricated with broad scales lying transversly; the nails are
blak and in proportion to the size of the bird comparitively with those of
the halk or Eagle, short and bluntly pointed. the under side of the wing
is covered with white down and feathers. a white stripe of about two
inches in width, also marks the outer part of the wing, imbracing the
lower points of the feathers, which cover the joints of the wing through
their whole length or width of that part of the wing. all the other
feathers of whatever part are glossey shining black except the down which
is not glossey but equally black. the skin of the beak and head to the
joining of the neck is of a pale orrange yellow the other part uncovered
with feathers is of a light flesh colour. the skin is thin and wrinkled
except on the beak where it is smooth. this bird flys very clumsily nor do
I know whether it ever seizes it's prey alive, but am induced to beleive
that it dose not. we have seen it feeding on the remains of the whale
& other fish which have been thrown up by the waves on the sea coast.
these I beleive constitute their prinsipal food, but I have no doubt but
they also feed on flesh; we did not met with this bird untill we had
decended the Columbia below the great falls, and have found them more
abundant below tide-water than above. I beleive that this bird is reather
of the Vulture genus than any other, tho it wants some of their
charactaristics particularly the hair on the neck and feathers on the
legs. — this is a handsome bird at a little distance. it's neck is
proportionably longer than those of the hawks or Eagle. Shannon also
brought me a grey Eagle which appeared to be of the same kind common to
the U States; it weighed 15 lb. and measured 7 Feet 7 Inches between the
extremities of the wings. — At 4 P.M. Sergt. Gass and party arrived;
they had killed eight Elk. Drewyer and Whitehouse also returned late in
the evening, had killed one Elk. Labuishe informed me that when he
approached this vulture, after wounding it, that it made a loud noise very
much like the barking of a dog & the tongue is large firm and broad,
filling the under chap and partaking of it's transverse curvature, or it's
sides colapsing upwards forming a longitudinal groove; obtuse at the
point, the margin armed with firm cartelaginous prickkles pointed and
bending inwards.
[Clark, February 17, 1806]
Monday February 17th 1806 Collins and Windser were permited to hunt to day
towards the praries in point Adams with a view to obtain Some fresh meat
for the Sick. a little before noon Shannon and Labiesh & frazier Came
with the flesh and hide of an Elk which had been wounded by Serjt. Gasses
party and took the water where they pursued it and cought it. they did not
See Sergt. Gass or any of his party or learn what further Sucksess they
have had. Continu the barks with Bratten, and Commenced them with gibson
his feaver being Sufficiently low this morning to permit the use of them.
I think therefore that there is no further danger of his recovery. — -at
2 P.M. Joseph Field arrived from the Salt works and informd us that they
had about 2 Kegs of Salt on hand (say 3 bushels) which with what we have
at this place we suppose will be Sufficient to last us to our deposit of
that article on the Missouri. we directed a party of Six men to go in the
morning in order to bring the salt and Kittles to the Fort. at 4 P.M.
Serjt. Gass and party arrive; they had killed 8 Elk. Drewyer and
Whitehouse also return late in the evening, they had killed one Elk, part
of the meat of which they brought in with them.
The Brown, White, or Grizly Bear are found in the rocky mountains in the
timbered part of it or Westerly Side but rarely; they are more Common
below or on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains on the borders of the
plains where there are Copses of bushes and underwood near the water
cources. they are by no means as plenty on this Side of the Rocky
Mountains as on the other, nor do I believe they are found at all in the
woody country which borders this coast as far in the interior as the range
of mountains which pass the Columbia between the enterance of Clarks and
the Quick sand Rivers or below the Great falls of Columbia.
The Black Bear differs not any from those Common to the U. States, and are
found under the Rocky Mountains in the woody country on the borders of the
Great Plain's of Columbia and also in this tract of woody country which
lie between these plains and the Pacific Ocian. their econimy and habits
are also the Same with those of the United States..
[Lewis, February 18, 1806]
Tuesday February 18th 1806. This morning we dispatched a party to the
Saltworks with Sergt. Ordway and a second with Sergt. Gass after the Elk
killed over the Netul. in the evening Sergt. Ordway returned and reported
that the waves ran so high in the bay that he could not pass to the
entrance of the creek which we had directed him to assend with the canoe.
Collins and Winsor returned this evening with one deer which they had
killed. the deer are poor and their flesh by no means as good as that of
the Elk which is also poor but appears to be geting better than some weeks
past. — in the forenoon we were visited by eight Clasops and Chinnooks
from whom we purchased a Sea Otter's skin and two hats made of waytape and
white ceder bark. they remained untill late in the evening and departed
for their village. these people are not readily obstructed by waves in
their canoes. — Sergt. Ordway brought me a specemine of a species of
pine peculiar to the swamps and marshes frequently overflown by the tide
as this is a distinct species I shall call it No. 7. this tree seldom
rises to a greater hight than 35 feet and is from 21/2 to 4 feet in
diameter; the stem is simple branching diffuse and proliferous. the bark
the same with that of No. 1 only reather more rugged. the leaf is acerose,
2/10ths of an inch in width and 3/4 in length. they are firm stif and
somewhat accuminated, ending in a short pointed hard tendril, gibbous,
thickly scattered on all sides of the bough but rispect the three upper
sides only. those which have there insersion on the underside incline
sidewise with their points upwards giving the leaf the figure of a sythe.
the others are perpendicular or pointing upwards. is sessile growing as in
No. 1 from small triangular pedestals of a soft spungy elastic bark. the
under disk of these leaves or that which grows nearest towards the base of
the bough is a deep glossey green while the upper or opposite side is of a
mealy whiteish pale green; in this rispect differing from almost all
leaves. the boughs retain their leaves as far back as to the sixth years
growth. the peculiarity of the bud scales observed in No 1 is observed in
this species. The cone is 31/2 inches in length and 3 in circumpherence,
of an ovate figure being thickest in the middle and tapering and
terminating in two obtuse points. it is composes of small, flexible, thin,
obtusely pointed smooth and redish brown imbricated scales. each scale
covering two small winged seeds and being itself covered in the center by
a small thin inferior scale accutely pointed. the cone is somewhat of this
figure. they proceede from the side as well as the extremities of the
bough but in the former case always at or near the commencement of some
one years growth which is some instances are as far back as the third
year.
[Clark, February 18, 1806]
Tuesday February 18th 1806 This morning we dispatched a party to the Salt
works with Sergt. Ordway. and a Second party with Sergt. Gass after the
Eight Elk killed over the Netul. in the evening Sergt. Ordway returned and
reported that the waves ran So high in the Bay that he could not pass to
the enterance of a Creek which we had directed him to assend with the
Canoe. Collins & Windsir returned this evening with one Deer which
they had Killed. the deer are pore and their flesh by no means as good as
that of the Elk which is also poore but appears to be getting better than
Some weeks past. in the forenoon we were visited by a Clatsop & Seven
Chinnooks from whome I purchased a Sea otter's Skin and two hats made of
way tape and Silk grass and white cedar bark. they remained untill late in
the evening and departed for their village. those people are not readily
obstructed by waves in their Canoes. Since their departure we have
discovered that they have Stole an ax. — Whitehouse brought me a roab
which he purchased of the Indians formed of three Skins of the Tiger Cat,
this Cat differs from any which I have ever Seen. it is found on the
borders of the plains and the woody Country lying along the Pacific Ocian.
this animale is about the Size or reather larger than the wild Cat of our
Countrey and is much the Same in form, agility and ferosity. the colour of
the back, neck and Sides, is a redish brown irrigular varigated with Small
Spots of dark brown the tail is about two inches long nearly white except
the extremity which is black; it termonates abruptly as if it had been cut
off. the belly is white with Small black spots. butifully varigated. the
legs are of the Same Colour with the Sides and back marked with transvers
stripes of black the ears are black on the outer Side Covered with fine
black hair, Short except at the upper point which is furnished with a
pencil of verry fine Streight black hair, 3/4 of an inch in length, the
fur of this animale is long and fine. much more So than the wild Cat of
the U States but less so than the Louserva of the N West. the nativs of
this Country make great use of the skins of this Cat, to form the robes
which they wear; three whole Skins is the complement usually employed, and
Sometimes four in each roab. Those Cats are not marked alike maney of them
have but fiew Spots of a darker Colour, particularly on the Back.
[Lewis, February 19, 1806]
Wednesday February 19th 1806. Sergt. Ordway set out again this morning
with a party for the salt works by land. in the evening Sergt. Gass
returned with the flesh of eight Elk, and seven skins; having left one
skin with Shannon and Labuishe who remained over the netul to continue the
chase. we had the Elk skins divided among the messes in order that they
might be prepared for covering our baggage when we set out in the spring.
our sick are recovering but they appear to strengthen but slowly. The
common red deer we found under the rocky mts. in the neighbourhood of the
Chopunnish, and about the great falls of the Columbia river and as low
down the same as the commencement of tide water. these do not appear to
differ essentially from those of our country being about the same size
shape and appearance in every rispect except their great length of tail
which is more than half as long again as our deer I measured one of them
which was 17 inches long. The Black tailed fallow deer are peculiar to
this coast and are a distinct species of deer partaking equally of
peculiarities of the mule deer and the common deer. their ears are reather
larger and their winter coat darker than the common deer; the recepticle
of the eye or drane is mor conspicuous; their legs shorter and body
thicker and larger than the common deer; their tail is about the length of
our deer or from 8 to 10 inches the hair on the underside of which is
white, and that of it's sides and top quite black the horns resemble in
form and colour those of the mule deer which it also resembles in it's
gate; that is bounding with all four feet off the ground at the same time
when runing at full speed and not loping as the common deer or antelope
do. they are sometimes found in the woodlands but most frequently in the
praries and open grounds. they may be said generally to be a size larger
than the common deer and that less than the mule deer. they are very
seldom found in good order, or fat, even in the season which the common
deer are so, and their flesh is inferior to any species of deer which I
have ever seen.
[Clark, February 19, 1806]
Wednesday February 19th 1806. Sergt. Ordway Set out again with a party to
the Salt works by land. in the evening Sergt. Gass returned with the flesh
of Eight Elk, and Seven Skins haveing left one Skin with Shannon and
Labiche who remained over the Netul to Continue the chase. we devided the
Skins between the messes in order that they might be prepared for Covering
the baggage when we Set out in the Spring. our Sick appear to Strengthen
but Slowly I gave Bratten 6 of Scotts pills which did not work him. he is
very weak and Complains of his back.
The black Fox or as they are more frequently Called by the N West Trader
Fisher is found in the woody country on this Coast. how this Animal
obtained the name of fisher I know not, but certain it is, that the name
is not appropriate, as it does not prey on or Seek it as a prey-. they are
extreeinly active Strong and made for climbing which they do with great
agility, and bound from tree to tree in pursute of the squirel or Rackoon,
their natural and most usual food. their Colour is a jut Black except a
Small Spot of white on the breast. the body is long, legs Short and formed
Something like the turnspit Dog, with a remarkable long tail. it does not
differ here from those of the United States.
The Silver Fox this animale is very rare even in the Countrey where it
exists, I have never Seen more than the Skins of this Animal and those
were in the possession of the nativs of the woody Country below the Great
falls of the Columbia, from which I think it is most probably they are the
inhabitants of the woody country exclusively. from the Skins, it appeard
to be about the Size of the large red Fox of the plains and much of its
form with a large tail. the legs I think somewhat longer it has a fine
long deep fur poil. the poil is of a dark lead colour and the long hairs
intermixed with it, are either white or black at the lower part, and white
at top, the whole mixture forming a butifull Silver Grey. I think this the
handsomest of all the Fox Species, except a Species of which I Saw one
running, and Capt Lewis had a good view of another of the Same Species on
the Missouri near the natural walls. The large red fox of the plains, and
the Kit fox are the Same which we met with on the Missouri and are the
inhabitants almost exclusively of the open plains, or of the copse of
bushes within the plain country. the Common red or grey fox of the United
States is also found in the woody country on this coast, nor does it
appear to be altered in respect to it's fur colour or any other
particular. we have Seen none of the large red fox.
[Lewis, February 20, 1806]
Thursday February 20th 1806. Permited Collins to hunt this morning he
returned in the evening unsuccessfull as to the chase but brought with him
some cranberries for the sick. Gibson is on the recovery fast; Bratton has
an obstenate cough and pain in his back and still appears to be geting
weaker. McNeal from his inattention to his disorder has become worse.
This forenoon we were visited by Tdh-cum a principal Chief of the
Chinnooks and 25 men of his nation. we had never seen this cheif before he
is a good looking man of about 50 years of age reather larger in statue
than most of his nation; as he came on a friendly visit we gave himself
and party some thing to eat and plyed them plentifully with smoke. we gave
this cheif a small medal with which he seemed much grati-fyed. in the
evening at sunset we desired them to depart as is our custom and closed
our gates. we never suffer parties of such number to remain within the
fort all night; for notwithstanding their apparent friendly disposition,
their great averice and hope of plunder might induce them to be
treacherous. at all events we determined allways to be on our guard as
much as the nature of our situation will permit us, and never place our
selves at the mercy of any savages. we well know, that the treachery of
the aborigenes of America and the too great confidence of our countrymen
in their sincerity and friendship, has caused the distruction of many
hundreds of us. so long have our men been accustomed to a friendly
intercourse with the natives, that we find it difficult to impress on
their minds the necessity of always being on their guard with rispect to
them. this confidence on our part, we know to be the effect of a series of
uninterupted friendly intercouse, but the well known treachery of the
natives by no means entitle them to such confidence, and we must check
it's growth in our own minds, as well as those of our men, by recollecting
ourselves, and repeating to our men, that our preservation depends on
never loosing sight of this trait in their character, and being always
prepared to meet it in whatever shape it may present itself.
The Mule deer are the same with those of the plains of the Missouri so
frequently mentioned. we met with them under the Rocky mountains in the
Neighbourhood of the Chopunnish nation on the Kooskooske river, but have
not seen them since nor do we know whether they exist in the interior of
the great plains of Columbia or on their lower border near the mountains
which pass the river about the great falls. The Elk is the same with that
found in much the greatest portion of North America, they are common to
every part of this country, as well the timbered lands as the plains, but
are much more abundant in the former than the latter The large brown woolf
is like that of the Atlantic States and are found only in the woody
country on the Pacific Ocean imbracing the mountains which pass the
Columbia between the great falls and rapids of the same. the large and
small woolves of the plains are the inhabitants principally of the open
country and the woodlands on their borders and resemble in their habits
and appearance those of the plains of the Missouri precisely. they are not
abundant in the plains of Columbia because there is but little game on
which for them to subsist.
[Clark, February 20, 1806]
Thursday February 20th 1806. Permited Collins to hunt this morning he
returned in the evening unsucksessfull as to the chase, but brought with
him Some Cramberries for the Sick. Gibson is on the recovery fast; Bratten
has an obstinate Cough and pain in his back and Still appears to be
getting weaker. H. McNeal from his inattention to his disorder has become
worse. Willard has a high fever and complains of the pain in his head and
want of appetite.
The forenoon we were visited by Tfih-cum a principal chief of the
Chinnooks and 25 men of his nation. we had never Seen this Chief before he
is a good looking man of about 50 years of age reather larger in Statue
than most of his nation; as he came on a friendly visit we gave himself
and party something to eate and plyed them plenty fully with Smoke. we
gave this chief a small Medal with which he Seamed much pleased. in the
evening at Sunset we desired them to depart as is our custom and Close our
gates. we never Suffer parties of Such numbers to remain within the Fort
all night; for not withstanding their apparent friendly disposition, their
great averis and hope of plunder might induce them to be treacherous. at
all events we are determined always to be on our guard, as much as the
nature of our Situation will permit us, and never place our selves at the
mercy of any Savages. we well know, that the treachery of the Aborigenes
of America and the too great confidence of our country men in their
friendship and fadility has caused the distruction of maney hundreds of
us. so long has our men been accustomed to a friendly intercourse with the
nativs, that we find it dificult to impress on their minds the necessity
of always being on their Guard with respect to them. this confidence on
our part we know to be the effect of a serious of a friendly and
unintorupted intercourse. but the well Known treachery of the natives by
no means entitle them to Such confidence, and we must check it's groth in
our own minds as well as those of our men, by recollecting our selves, and
repeating to our men, that our preservation depends on our never loseing
Sight of this trate in their character, and being always prepared to meet
it in whatever Shape it may present itself
The Mule Deer are the Same with those of the Plains of the Missouri So
frequently mentioned. we met with them under the rocky mountains in the
neighbourhood of the Chopunnish Nation on the Koskooske river, but have
not Seen them Since nor do we know whether they exist in the interiors of
the great Plains of Columbia, or on the lower border near the mountains
which pass the river about the great falls. The Elk is the Same with that
found in much the greater portion of North America, they are common to
every part of this Country, as well the timbered lands as the plains. but
are much more abundant in the former than the latter
[Lewis, February 21, 1806]
Friday February 21st 1806. Visited this morning by 3 Clatsop who remained
with us all day; they are great begers; I gave one of them a few nedles
with which he appeared much gratifyed. in the evening late they departed.
Drewyer and Collins went in pursuit of some Elk, the tracks of which
Collins had discovered yesterday; but it rained so hard that they could
not pursue them by their tracks and returned unsuccessfull. Drewyer saw a
fisher black fox but it escaped from him among the fallen timber. Sergt.
Ordway returned with the party from the salt camp which we have now
evacuated. they brought with them the salt and eutensils. our stock of
salt is now about 20 Gallons; 12 gallons of which we secured in 2 small
iron bound kegs and laid by for our voyage. gave Willard and bratton each
a doze of Scotts pills; on the former they operated and on the latter they
(lid not. Gibson still continues the barks three times a day and is on the
recovery fast.
The tyger Cat is found on the borders of the plains and in the woody
country lying along the Pacific Ocean. this animal is about the size or
reather larger than the wild cat of our country and is much the same in
form, agility and ferosity. the colour of the back neck and sides is a
redish brown irregularly variegated with small spots of dark brown the
tail is about two inches long nearly white except the extremity which is
black; it terminates abruptly as if it had been cut off. the belly is
white with small black spots, beautifully variagated. the legs are of the
same colour with the sides and back marked with transverse stripes of
black the ears are black on the outer side covered with fine short hair
except at the upper point which furnished with a pensil of fine, streight,
black hair, = 3/4 of an inch in length. the fur of this anamal is long and
fine, much more so than the wild cat of the United States but less so than
that of Louservea of the N. West. the natives in this quarter make great
use of the skins of this Cat to form the robes which they wear; four skins
is the compliment usuly employed in each robe. the Black fox, or as they
most frequently called in the neighbourhood of Detroit, Fisher is found in
the woody country on this coast. how this animal obtained the name of
fisher I know not, but certain it is, that the name is not appropriate, as
it dose not prey on fish or seek it as a prey. they are extreemly active
strong and prepared for climbing, which they do with great agility, and
bound from tree to tree in pursuit of the squirrel or Rackoon their
natural and most usual food. their colour is a jut black except a small
spot of white on the breast. the body is long, legs short and formed
something like the ternspit dog with a remarkable long tail. it dose not
differ here from those of the United States. The Silver fox this animal is
very rare even in the country where it exists; I have never seen more than
the Skins of this anamal and those were in the possession of the natives
of the woody Country below the great falls of the Columbia from which I
think that it is most probably the inhabtant of the woody country
exclusively. from the skin it appeared to be about the size of the large
red fox of the plains and much of it's form with a large tail. the legs I
think somewhat longer. it has a fine long deep fur poll. the poil is of a
dark lead colour and the long hairs intermixed with it are either white or
black at the lower part and white at the top, the whole mixture forming a
beatifull silver grey. I think this the most beautifull of all the Foxes
except species of which I saw one only on the Missouri near the natural
walls. the large red fox of the plains and the Kit fox are the same which
we met with on the Missouri and are the inhabitants almost exclusively of
the open plains, or of the cops of brush within the pain country. The
common red fox of the United States is also found in the woody country on
this coast nor dose it appear to be altered in rispect to it's fur colour
or any other particular
[Clark, February 21, 1806]
Friday February 21st 1806 Visited this morning by three Clatsops, who
remained with us all day; they are great begers; Capt Lewis gave one of
them a fiew nedles with which he appeared much gratified, in the evening
late they departed.
Drewyer and Collins went in pursute of Some Elk the tracks of which
Collins had discovered yesterday; but it rained So hard they Could not
pursue them by the tracks, and returned unsucksessfull. Drewyer Saw a
fisher but it escaped from him among the fallen timber. Sergt. Ordway
returned with the party from the Salt Camp which we have now avacuated.
they brought with them the Salt and utensels. our Stock of Salt is now
about 20 Gallons; 12 Gallons we had Secured in 2 Small iron bound Kegs and
laid by for our voyage. Gave Willard a dose of Scots pills; they opperated
very well. Gibson Still Continus the bark 3 times a day and is on the
recovery fast.
The large brown Wolf is like that of the atlantic States, and are found
only in the woody Country on the Pacific Ocean embraceing the mountains
which pass the Columbia between the Great Falls an Rapids of the same. The
large and Small Wolves of the inhabitents principally of the open Country
and the wood land on their borders, and resemble in their habits those of
the plains of Missouri presisely they are not abundant in the Plains of
Columbia because there is but little game on which for them to subsist-
[Lewis, February 22, 1806]
Saturday February 22cd 1806. We were visited today by two Clatsop women
and two boys who brought a parsel of excellent hats made of Cedar bark and
ornamented with beargrass. two of these hats had been made by measures
which Capt Clark and myself had given one of the women some time since
with a request to make each of us a hat; they fit us very well, and are in
the form we desired them. we purchased all their hats and distributed them
among the party. the woodwork and sculpture of these people as well as
these hats and their waterproof baskets evince an ingenuity by no means
common among the Aborigenes of America. in the evening they returned to
their village and Drewyer accompanied them in their canoe in order to get
the dogs which the Clatsops have agreed to give us in payment for the Elk
they stole from us some weeks since. these women informed us that the
small fish began to run which we suppose to be herring from their
discription. they also informed us that their Chief, Coma or Comowooll,
had gone up the Columbia to the valley in order to purchase wappetoe, a
part of which he in tended trading with us on his return. one of our
canoes brake the cord by which it was attatched and was going off with the
tide this evening; we sent Sergt. Pryor and a party after her who
recovered and brought her back. our sick consisting of Gibson, Bratton,
Sergt. Ordway, Willard and McNeal are all on the recovery. we have not had
as may sick at any one time since we left Wood River. the general
complaint seams to be bad colds and fevers, something I beleive of the
influenza.
The Antelope is found in the great plains of Columbia and are the same of
those on the Missouri found in every part of that untimbered country. they
are by no means as plenty on this side of the Rocky Mountains as on the
other. the natives here make robes of their skins dressed with the hair on
them. when the salmon begin to decline in the latter end of the sunme and
Autumn the natves leave the river, at least a majority and remove to the
plains at some distance for the purpose of hunting the Antelope. they
pursue them on horse back and shoot them with their arrows. The sheep is
found in various parts of the Rocky mountains, but most commonly in those
parts which are timbered and steep. they are also found in greater
abundance on the Chain of mountains with form the commencement of the
woody country on this coast and which pass the Columbia between the great
falls and rapids we have never met with this anamal ourselves but have
seen many of their skins in possession of the natives dressed with the
wooll on them and aso seen the blankets which they manufacture of the
wooll of this sheep. from the skin the animal appears to be about the size
of the common sheep; of a white colour. the wooll is fine on most parts of
the body but not so long as that of our domestic sheep. the wooll is also
curled and thick. on the back and more particularly on the top of the neck
the wooll is intermixed with a considerable proportion of long streight
hairs. there is no wooll on a small part of the body behind the sholders
on each side of the brisquit which is covered with a short fine hairs as
in the domestic sheep. form the signs which the Indians make in discribing
this animal they have herect pointed horns, tho one of our Engages La
Page, assures us that he saw them in the black hills where the little
Missouri passes them, and that they were in every rispect like the
domestic sheep, and like them the males had lunated horns bent backwards
and twisted. I should be much pleased at meeting with this animal, but
have had too many proofs to admit a doubt of it's existing and in
considerable numbers in the mountains near this coast. the Beaver and
common Otter have before been mentioned in treating of the occupations of
the natives in hunting fishing &c. these do not differ from those of
other parts of the Continent.
[Clark, February 22, 1806]
Saturday February 22nd 1806 We were visited to day by two Clatsops women
and two boys who brought a parcel of excellent hats made of Cedar bark,
and ornemented with bear grass. two of those hats had been made by measure
which Capt Lewis and my Self had given a woman Some time Since, with a
request to make each of us a hat; they fit us very well, and are in the
form we desired them. we purchased the hats and distribeted them among the
party. the woodwork and sculpture of these people as well as those hats
and the water proof baskits evince an ingenuity by no means common among
the Aborigenes of America. in the evining they returned to their village
and Drewyer accompanied them in order to get Some dogs &c. These women
informed us that the Small fish began to run which we suppose to be
herring from their discription. they also informed us that their Chief
Conia Comawool, had gorn up the Columbia to the Vally in order to purchase
Wappatoe, a part of which he entended tradeing with us on his return. our
sick consisting of Gibson, Bratten, Willard McNeal and Baptiest LaPage is
Something better Serjt. Ordway is complaining of a Coald & head ake.
we have not had as many Sick at one time Since we left the Settlements of
the Illinois. the general Complaint appears to be bad colds and fevers,
with a violent pain in the head, and back, something I believe of the
influenza.
The Antelope is found in the great plains of Columbia and are the Same
with those of the Missouri found in every part of that untimbered Country.
they are by no means as plenty on this Side of the Rocky Mountains as on
the other. the nativs here make robes of their Skins dressed withe the
hair on them. when the Salmon begin to decline in the latter end of Summer
and autumn, the nativs leave the river, at least a majority and move out
into the plains at Some distance for the purpose of hunting the Antelope.
they pursue them on hors back and Shute them with their arrows.
The Sheep is found in various parts of the Rocky Mountains, but most
Commonly on those parts which are timbered and Steep. they are also found
in greater abundance on the chain of mountains which forms the
Commencement of the woody country on this Coast and which pass the
Columbia between the great falls and rapids. we have never met with this
animal ourselves but have Seen maney of their Skins in the possession of
the nativs dressed with the wool on them and also Seen and have the
blankets which they manufacture of the wool of this Sheep. from the Skin
the animal appears to be about the Size of the common Sheep; of a white
colour. the wool is fine on most parts of the body, but not so long as
that of the domestic Sheep; the wool is also Curled and thick. on the back
and more particularly on the top of the neck the wool is intermixed with a
Considerable proportion of long Streight hair. there is no wool on a Small
part of the body behind the Sholders on each Side of the brisquit which is
covered with a Short fine hairs as in the domestic Sheep. from the Signs
which the Indians make in discribing this animale they have herect pointed
horns, tho one of our Engages Lapage, assures us that he Saw them in the
Black hills where the Little Missouri river passes them, and that they
were in every respect like our domestic Sheep, and like them the mail had
lunated horns bent backwards and twisted. I should be much pleased at
meeting with this animal. but have had too maney proofs to admit a doubt
of it's existing and in considerable numbers in the mountains on this
Coast. The Beaver and Common Otter have before been mentioned in treating
of the Occupation of the nativs in hunting, fishing, &c. these do not
differ from those of other parts of the Continent-..
[Lewis, February 23, 1806]
Sunday February 23rd 1806. not anything transpired during this day worthy
of particular notice. our sick are all on the recovery, except Sergt.
Ordway who is but little wose and not very ill tho more so than any of the
others. the men have provided themselves very amply with mockersons and
leather cloathing, much more so indeed than they ever have since they have
been on this voige.
The Sea Otter is found on the sea coast and in the salt water. this anamal
when fully grown is as large as a common mastive dog. the ears and eyes
are remarkaby small, particularly the former which is not an inch in
length thick fleshey and pointed covered with short hair. the tail is
about 10 inches in length thick where it joins the body and tapering to a
very sharp point; in common with the body it is covered with a deep fir
particularly on the upper side, on the under part the fur is not so long.
the legs are remarkably short and the feet, which have five toes each are
broad large and webbed. the legs are covered with fur and the feet with
short hair. the body of this animal is long and nearly of the same
thickness throughout. from the extremity of the tail to that of the nose
they will measure 5 feet or upwards. the colour is a uniform dark brown
and when in good order and season perfectly black and glossey. it is the
riches and I think the most delicious fur in the world at least I cannot
form an idea of any more so. it is deep thick silkey in the extreem and
strong. the inner part of the fur when opened is lighter than the surface
in it's natural position. there are some fine black and shining hairs
intermixed with the fur which are reather longer and add much to it's
beauty. the nose, about the eyes ears and forehead in some of these otter
is of a lighter colour, sometimes a light brown. those parts in the young
sucking Otter of this species is sometimes of a cream coloured white, but
always much lighter than the other parts. the fur of the infant Otter is
much inferior in point of colour and texture to that of the full grown
otter, or even after it has been weaned. there is so great a difference
that I have for some time supposed it a different animal; the Indians
called the infant Otter Spuck, and the full grow or such as had obtained a
coat of good fur, E-luck'-ke. this still further confirmed the opinion of
their being distinct species; but I have since learned that the Spuck is
the young Otter. the colour of the neck, body, legs and tail is a dark
lead brown. The mink is found in the woody country on this coast, and dose
not differ in any particu from those of the Atlantic coast. the seal are
found here in great numbers, and as far up the Columbia river as the great
falls above which there are none. I have reason to beleive from the
information of the men that there are several species of the seal on this
coast and in the river but what the difference is I am unable to state not
having seen them myself sufficiently near for minute inspection nor
obtained the different kinds to make a comparison. the skins of such as I
have seen are covered with a short coarse stiff and glossey hair of a
redish hey brown colour. tho the anamal while in the water or as we saw
them frequently in the river appear to be black and spoted with white
sometimes. when we first saw those animals at the great falls and untill
our arrival at this place we conseived they were the Sea Otter. but the
indians here have undeceived us. — I am not much acquainted with the
Seal but suppose that they are the same common also to the Atlantic Ocean
in the same parallel of latitude. the skins I have seen are precisely such
as our trunks are frequently covered with.
[Clark, February 23, 1806]
Sunday February 23rd 1806. Not any thing transpired desering particular
notice. our Sick are all on the recovery. the men have provided themselves
verry amply with mockersons & leather clothing, much more So indeed
than they have ever been Since they have been on the voyage.
The Sea Otter is found only on the Sea Coast and in the Salt water. Those
animals which I took to be the Sea Otter from the Great Falls of the
Columbia to the mouth, proves to be the Phosia or Seal which at a little
distance has every appearance of the Sea Otters. The Sea otter when fully
grown is as large as the common mastif dog, the eail and Eyes are
remarkably Small, particularly the former which is not an inch in length
thick fleshey and pointed, Covered with short hair. the tail is about 10
inches in length thick where it joins the body and tapering to a very
Sharp point; in common with the body it is covered with a deep fur
particularly on the upper Side, on the under part the fur is not So long.
the legs are remarkably Short and the feat which have five toes each are
broad large and webbed. the legs are covered with fur and the feet with
Short hair. the body of this Animal is long and nearly of the Same
thickness throughout. from the extremity of the tail to that of the nose
they will measure 5 feet or upwards. the colour is of a uniform dark
brown, and when in good order and Season perfectly Black and Glossey. it
is the richest and I think the most delightfull fur in the world at least
I cannot form an idea of any more so. it is deep thick silky in the
extream and Strong. the inner part of the fur when open is lighter than
the surface in its natural position. there are Some fine black Shineing
hairs intermixed with the fur which are reather longer and add much to its
beauty. the nose, about the eyes, ears and forehead in Some of those otter
is of a light Colour, Sometimes a light brown. those parts in the young
Suckling otters of this Species is Sometimes of a creem colour'd white,
but always much lighter than the other parts. the fur of the infant otter
is much inferior in point of colour, and texture, to that of the full
grown otter, or even after it has been weened-. there is so great a
difference that I have for Some time Supposed it a different animal; the
Indians Call the infant otter Spuck, and the full grown or such as had
obtained a Coat of good fur, E luck'ko. this Still further confirmed the
opinion of their being distinct Species; but I have Since lerned that the
Spuck is the young otter. the Colour of the neck, body, legs and tail is a
dark lead brown. The Mink is found in the woody Country on this Coast and
does not differ in any particular from those of the Atlantic Coasts.
The Seal or Phoca are found here in great numbers, and as far up the
Columbia as the great Falls, above which there are none. I have reasons to
believe from the information of the men that there are Several Species of
the Phoca on this Coast and in the river, but what the difference is I am
unable to State not haveing Seen them myself Sufficiently near for manute
inspection nor obtain the different kinds to make a comparison. the Skins
of Such as I have Seen are covered with a Short thick Coarse Glossy hair
of a redish bey brown Colour. tho the animal while in the water, or as we
saw them frequently in the river appear to be black and Spoted with white
sometimes. I am not much acquainted with the Seal, but Suppose that they
are the Same common also to the atlantic Ocian in the Same parrelal of
Latitude. the Skins, or those which I have Seen are presisely Such as
trunks are frequently Covered with. the flesh of this animal is highly
prised by the nativs who Swinge the hair off and then roste the flesh on
Sticks before the fire.
[Lewis, February 24, 1806]
Monday February 24th 1806. Our sick are still on the recovery. Shannon
& Labuishe returned in the forenoon; they had killed no Elk and
reported that they beleived the Elk have retired from their former haunts
and gone further back in the country to a considerable distance from this
place. this is very unwelcome information for poor and inferior as the
flesh of this animal is it is our principal dependance for subsistence.
This evening we were visited by Comowooll the Clatsop Chief and 12 men
women & children of his nation. Drewyer came a passenger in their
canoe, and brought with him two dogs. The chief and his party had brought
for sail a Sea Otter skin some hats, stergeon and a species of small fish
which now begin to run, and are taken in great quantities in the Columbia
R. about 40 miles above us by means of skiming or scooping nets. on this
page I have drawn the likeness of them as large as life; it as perfect as
I can make it with my pen and will serve to give a general idea of the
fish. the rays of the fins are boney but not sharp tho somewhat pointed.
the small fin on the back next to the tail has no rays of bone being a
thin membranous pellicle. the fins next to the gills have eleven rays
each. those of the abdomen have eight each, those of the pinna-ani are 20
and 2 half formed in front. that of the back has eleven rays. all the fins
are of a white colour. the back is of a bluish duskey colour and that of
the lower part of the sides and belley is of a silvery white. no spots on
any part. the first bone of the gills next behid the eye is of a bluis
cast, and the second of a light goald colour nearly white. the puple of
the eye is black and the iris of a silver white. the underjaw exceeds the
uper; and the mouth opens to great extent, folding like that of the
herring. it has no teeth. the abdomen is obtuse and smooth; in this
differing from the herring, shad anchovey &c of the Malacopterygious
Order & Class Clupea, to which however I think it more nearly allyed
than to any other altho it has not their accute and serrate abdomen and
the under jaw exceeding the upper. the scales of this little fish are so
small and thin that without minute inspection you would suppose they had
none. they are filled with roes of a pure white colour and have scarcely
any perceptable alimentary duct. I find them best when cooked in Indian
stile, which is by roasting a number of them together on a wooden spit
without any previous preperation whatever. they are so fat they require no
additional sauce, and I think them superior to any fish I ever tasted,
even more delicate and lussious than the white fish of the lakes which
have heretofore formed my standart of excellence among the fishes. I have
heard the fresh anchovey much extolled but I hope I shall be pardoned for
beleiving this quite as good. the bones are so soft and fine that they
form no obstruction in eating this fish. we purchased all the articles
which these people brought us; we suffered these people to remain all
night as it rained, the wind blew most violently and they had their women
and children with them; the latter being a sure pledge of their pacific
dispositions. the Sturgeon which they brought us was also good of it's
kind. we determine to send a party up the river to procure some of those
fish, and another in some direction to hunt Elk as soon as the weather
will permit.
[Clark, February 24, 1806]
Monday February 24th 1806 Our Sick are Still on the recovery. Shannon and
Labiche returned in the forenoon, they had killed no Elk, and reported
that they believe the Elk have returned from their former haunts and gorn
further back in the mountains to a considerable distance from this place.
this is very unwelcom information, for poore and inferior as the flesh of
this animale is, it is our principal dependance for Subsistance.
The Rackoon is found in the woody Country on the Coast in considerable
quantities. the nativs take a fiew of them in Snars, and deadfalls; tho
appear not to value their Skins much, and but Seldom prepare them for
robes. The large Grey Squirel appear to be a native of a narrow tract of
Country on the upper Side of the mountains below the Great falls of
Columbia which is pritty well covered in maney parts with a Species of
white oak. this animal is much larger than the Gray Squirel of our
Country, it resembles it much in form and colour. it is as large as the
Fox Squirel of the South Atlantic States. the tail is reather larger than
the whole of the body and head, the hair of which is long and tho inserted
on all Sides reispect the horozontal one. the eyes are black, whiskers
black and long. the back, Sides, head, tale and outer parts of the legs
are of a blue lead colour grey. the breast, belly, and inner parts of the
legs are of a pure white. the hair is Short as that of the Fox Squirel but
is much finer and intermixed with a propotion of fur. the nativs make
great use of those Skins in forming their robes. this Squirel Subsists
principally on the acorn and filburts, which last also grow abundantly in
the Oak Country-. The Small brown Squirel is a butifull little animal
about the size of the red Squirel of the E. States or Something larger
than the ground Squirel of the U States. the tail is as long as the body
and neck formed Somewhat Hat. the eyes black, whiskers long and black but
not abundant. the back, Sides, head, neck and outer parts of the legs are
of a redish dark brown. the throat, breast, belly and inner parts of the
legs are of a pale brick red. the tail is a mixture of black and fox
coloured red in which the black prodomonates in the middle, and the other
on the edges and extremity. the hair of the body is about 1/2 inch long
and So fine and soft that it has the appearance of fur. the hair of the
tail is coarser and double as long. this animal Subsists principally on
the Seeds of various Species of pine and are always found in the piney
Country. they are common to the tract of woody country on this coast. they
lodge in Clefts of rocks, holes in the Ground, old Stumps of trees and the
hollow trunks of falling timber; in this respect resemble the rat always
haveing their habitation in or near the earth. The Small Grey Squirel
Common to every part of the Rocky Mountains which is timbered, differ from
the dark brown squirel just discribed only in its colour.
it's back, neck, Sides, head, tail and outer Sides of the legs are of
brown lead coloured Grey; the tail has a Slight touch of the fox colour
near the extremity of some of the hairs. the throat, belly, breast, and
inner part of the legs are of the Colour of tanners ooze and have a narrow
Stripe of black commencing behing each Sholder and extending
longitudinally for about 3 inches between the Colours of the Side &
belly. their habits are also the Same with the dark brown Squirel of this
neighbourhood, and like them are extreamly nimble and active. The Ground
Squirel is found in various parts of the Countrey as well the Praries as
wood lands, and is one of the fiew animals which we have Seen in every
part of our voy-age. it differs not at all from those of the U, States.
The Barking Squirel and handsom Ground Squirel of the Plains on the East
Side of the Rocky Mountains are not found in the plains of the Columbia.
This evening we were visited by Comowooll the Clatsop Chief and 14 men
women and Children of his nation. Drewyer came a pasinger in their Canoe,
and brought with him two dogs. the Chief and his party had brought for
Sale a Sea otter Skin, Some hats, Sturgeon and a Species of fish which now
begins to run and are taken in Great quantities in the Columbia River
about 40 miles above us by means of Skiming or scooping nets. See likeness
on the other Side of this leaf or page. Capt Lewis gave an old Coat and
Vest for a Sea otter Skin, we purchased Several hads of the Indian
manufactry and distributed them among the party. we also purchased a fiew
of the Small fish which we found deliciously fine.
[Lewis, February 25, 1806]
Tuesday February 25th 1806. It continued to rain and blow so violently
that there was no movement of the party today. the Indians left us in the
morning on their return to their village. Willard somewhat worse the other
Invalledes on the ricovery. I am mortifyed at not having it in my power to
make more celestial observations since we have been at Fort Clatsop, but
such has been the state of the weather that I have found it utterly
impracticable.
The Rackoon is found in the woody country on this coast in considerable
quantities. the natives take a few of them in snars and deadfalls; tho
appear not to vallue their skins much, and but seldom prepare them for
robes. The large grey squirrel appears to be a native of a narrow tract of
country on the upper side of the mountains just below the grand falls of
Columbia which is pretty well covered in many parts with a species of
white oak. in short I beleive this squirrel to be coextensive with timber
only, as we have not seen them in any part of the country where pine forms
the majority of the timber, or in which the oak dose not appear. this
animal is much larger than the grey squirrel of our country it resembles
it much in form and colours. it is as large as the fox squirrel of the
Southern Atlantic states. the tail is reather longer than the whole length
of the body and head. the hair of which is long and tho inserted on all
sides reispect the horizontal ones only. the eyes are black. whiskers
black and long. the back, sides, head, tail and outer part of the legs are
of a blue lead coloured grey. the breast belley and inner part of the legs
are of a pure white. the hair is short as that of the fox-squirrel but is
much finer and intermixed with a proportion of fur. the natives make great
use of these skins in forming their robes. this squirrel subsists
principally on the acorn and filbird which last also grows abundantly in
the oak country. — The small brown squirrel is a beautifull little
animal about the size and form of the red squirrel of the Eastern Atlantic
states and western lakes. the tail is as long as the body and neck, formed
like that of the red squirrel or somewhat flat. the eyes black. whiskers
long and black but not abundant. the back, sides, head, neck and outer
part of the legs are of a redish dark brown. the throat, breast, belley
and inner part of the legs are of a pale brick red. the tail is a mixture
of black and fox coloured red in which the black predominates in the midle
and the other on the edges and extremity. the hair of the body is about
1/2 an inch long and so fine and soft that it has the appearance of fur.
the hair of the tail is coarser and doubly as long. this animal subsists
principally on the seeds of various species of pine, and are always found
in the piny country they are common to the tract of wooddy country on this
coast. they lodge in clifts of rocks, holes in the ground old stumps of
trees and the hollow trunks of fallen timber; in this rispect resembling
the rat, always having their habitatin in or near the earth. the small
grey squirrel common to every part of the rocky mountain which is
timbered, difirs from the dark brown squirrel just discribed only in it's
colour. it's back, sides, neck, head tail and outer side of the legs are
of a brown lead coloured grey; the tail has a slight touch of the fox
colour near the extremity of some of the hairs. the throat, breast,
belley, and inner parts of the legs are of the colour of tanner's ooze and
have a narrow stripe of black, commencing just behide each sholder and
extending longitudinaly for about 3 inches betwen the colours of the sides
and belley. their habids are also the same of the dark brown squirrel of
this neighbourhood and like them are extreemly nimble and active. the
ground squirrel is found in every part of the country, as well the praries
as woodlands, and is one of the few animals which we have seen in every
part of our voyage. it differs not at all from those of the U States. the
barking squirrel and handsome ground squirrel of the plains on the East
side of the rocky mountains are not found in the plains of Columbia.
[Clark, February 25, 1806]
Tuesday February 25th 1806 It continued to rain and blow So violently that
there was no movement of the party to day. the Indians left us in the
morning on their return to their village. Willard Somewhat worse the
others are on the recovery. we are mortified at not haveing it in our
power to make more Celestial observations since we have been at Fort
Clatsop, but Such has been the State of the weather that we have found it
utterly impractiable-. I purchased of the Clatsops this morning about half
a bushel of Small fish which they had cought about 40 miles up the
Columbia in their scooping nets. as this is an uncommon fish to me and one
which no one of the party has ever Seen. on the next page I have drawn the
likeness of them as large as life; it's as perfect as I can make it with
my pen and will Serve to give a general idea of the fish. the rays of the
fins are boney but not Sharp tho Somewhat pointed. the Small fin on the
back next to the tail has no rays of bone being a thin membranous
pellicle. the fins next to the gills have eleven rays each. those of the
abdomen have Eight each, those of the pinna ani are 20 and 2 half formed
in front. that of the back has eleven rays. all the fins are of a white
colour. the back is of a blueish duskey colour and that of the lower part
of the Sides and belly is of a Silvery White. no Spots on any part. the
first of the gills next behind the eye is of a blueish cast, and the
second of a light gold colour nearly white. the puple of the eye is black
and the iris of a silver white. the under jaw exceeds the upper; and the
mouth opens to great extent, folding like that of the Herring. it has no
teeth. the abdomen is obtuse and Smooth; in this differing from the
herring, Shad, anchovey &c. of the Malacapterygious Order and Class
Clupea, to which however I think it more nearly allyed than to any other
altho it has not their accute and Serrate abdomen and the under jaw
exceeding the upper. the scales of this little fish are So small and thin
that without manute inspection you would Suppose they had none. they are
filled with roes of a pure white Colour and have Scercely any perceptable
alimentary duct. I found them best when cooked in Indian Stile, which is
by rosting a number of them together on a wooden spit without any previous
preperation whatever. they are so fat that they require no aditional
sauce, and I think them Superior to any fish I ever tasted, even more
dilicate and lussious than the white fish of the Lakes which have
heretofore formed my Standard of excellence among the fishes. I have herd
the fresh anchovey much extoll'd but I hope I shall be pardened for
believeing this quit as good. the bones are So Soft and fine that they
form no obstruction in eating this fish.
[Lewis, February 26, 1806]
Wednesday February 26th 1806. This morning we dispatched Drewyer and two
men in our Indian canoe up the Columbia River to take sturgeon and
Anchovey. or if they were unsuccessfull in fishing we directed them to
purchase fish from the natives for which purpose we had furnished them
with a few articles such as the natives are pleased with. we also Sent
Shields, Joseph Fields and Shannon up the Netul to hunt Elk. and directed
Reubin Fields and some others to hunt in the point towards the praries of
Point Adams. thus we hope shortly to replenish our stock of provision
which is now reduced to a mere minnamum. we have three days provision only
in store and that of the most inferior dryed Elk a little tainted. a
comfortable prospect for good living. Sewelel is the Chinnook and Clatsop
name for a small animal found in the timbered country on this coast. it is
more abundant in the neighbourhood of the great falls and rapids of the
Columbia than immediately on the coast. the natives make great use of the
skins of this animal in forming their robes, which they dress with the fur
on them and attatch together with sinews of the Elk or deer. I have never
seen the animal and can therefore discribe it only from the skin and a
slight view which some of our hunters have obtained of the living animal.
the skin when dressed is from 14 to 18 inches in length and from 7 to 9 in
width; the tail is always severed from the skin in forming their robes I
cannot therefore say what form or length it is. one of the men informed me
that he thought it reather short and flat. that he saw one of them run up
a tree like a squirrel and that it returned and ran into a hole in the
ground. the ears are short thin pointed and covered with short fine hair.
they are of a uniform colour, a redish brown; tho the base of the long
hairs, which exceed the fur but little in length, as well as the fur
itself is of a dark colour for at least two thirds of it's length next to
the skin. the fur and hair are very fine, short, thickly set and silky.
the ends of the fur and tips of the hair being of the redish brown that
colour predominates in the ordinary appearance of the animal. I take this
animal to be about the size of the barking squirrel of the Missouri. and
beleive most probably that it is of the Mustela genus, or perhaps the
brown mungo itself. I have indeavoured in many instances to make the
indians sensible how anxious I was to obtain one of these animals entire,
without being skined, and offered them considerable rewards to furnish me
with one, but have not been able to make them comprehend me. I have
purchased several of the robes made of these skins to line a coat which I
have had made of the skins of the tiger cat. they make a very pleasant
light lining. the Braro so called by the French engages is an animal of
the civit genus and much resembles the common badger. this is an
inhabitant of the open plains of the Columbia as they are of those of the
Missouri but are sometimes also found in the woody country. they burrow in
the hard grounds of the plains with surprising ease and dexterity an will
cover themselves in the ground in a very few minutes. they have five long
fixed nails on each foot; those of the forefeet are much the longest; and
one of those on each hind foot is double like those of the beaver. they
weigh from 14 to 18 lbs. the body is reather long in proportion to it's
thickness. the forelegs remarkably large and muscular and are formed like
the ternspit dog. they are short as are also the hind legs. they are broad
across the sholders and brest. the neck short. the head is formed much
like the common fist dog only that the skull is more convex. the mouth is
wide and furnished with sharp streight teeth both above and below, with
four sharp streight pointed tusks, two in the upper and two in the lower
jaw. the eyes are black and small. whiskers are plased in four points on
each side near the nose and on the jaws near the opening of the mouth. the
ears are very short wide and appressed as if they had ben cut off. the
apperture through them to the head is remarkably small. the tail is about
4 inches long; the hair longest on it at it's junction with the body and
becoming shorter towards it's extremity where it ends in an accute point.
the hairs of the body are much longer on the side and rump than any other
part, which gives the body and apparent flatness, particularly when the
animal rests on it's belley. this hair is upwards of 3 inches in length
particularly on the rump where it extends so far towards the point of the
tail that it almost conceals the shape of that part and gives to the whole
of the hinder part of the body the figure of an accute angled triangle of
which the point of the tail forms the accute angle. the small quantity of
coarse fur which is intermixed with the hair is of a redish pale yellow.
the hair of the back, sides, upper part of the neck and tail, are of a
redish light or pale yellow for about 2/3rds of their length from the
skin, next black, and then tiped with white; forming a curious mixture of
grey and fox coloured red with a yellowish hue. the belley flanks and
breast are of the foxcoloured redish yellow. the legs black. the nails
white the head on which the hair is short, is varia gated with black and
white. a narrow strip of white commences on the top of the nose about 1/2
an inch from it's extremity and extends back along the center of the
forehead and neck nearly to the sholders — two stripes of black
succeed the white on either side imbracing the sides of the nose, the
eyes, and extends back as far as the ears. two other spots of black of a
ramboidal figure are placed on the side of the head near the ears and
between them and the opening of the mouth. two black spots also
immediately behind the ears. the other parts of the head white. this
animal feeds on flesh, roots, bugs, and wild fruits. — it is very
clumsy and runs very slow. I have in two instances out run this animal and
caught it. in this rispect they are not much more fleet than the
porcupine.
[Clark, February 26, 1806]
Wednesday February 26th 1806 This morning we dispatched Drewyer and two
men in our indian canoe up the Columbia River to take Sturgion and
Anchovey. or if they were unsucksessfull in fishing we directed them to
purchase fish from the nativs, for which purpose we had furnished them
with a fiew articles Such as the nativs are pleased with. we also Sent
Shields Jo. Field and Shannon up the Netul to hunt Elk. and directed
Reubin Field and Some other man to hunt in the point towards the Praries
& point Adams. thus we hope Shortly to replenish our Stock of
provisions which is now reduced to a mear minnamum. we have three days
provisions only in Store and that of the most inferior dried Elk a little
tainted. what a prospect for good liveing at Fort Clatsop at present.
Se we lel is the Clatsop and Chinnook name for a Small animal found in the
timbered Country on this Coast. it is more abundant in the neighbourhood
of the great falls and rapids of the Columbia than imediately on the
Coast. the nativs make great use of the Skins of this animal in forming
their robes, which they dress with the fur on them and attached together
with the sinears of the Elk or Deer. I have never Seen the ammale and can
therefore only discribe it from the Skin and a Slight view which Some of
our party have obtained of the liveing animal. the Skin when dressed is
from 14 to 18 inches in length, and from 7 to 9 in width; the tail is
always Severed from the body in forming their robes, I cannot therefore
Say in what form or length it is. one of the men informed me that he
thought it reather Short and flat. that he saw one of them run up a tree
like a squirel, and that it returned and ran into a hole in the ground.
the ears are Short, thin, pointed and Covered with Short fine hair. they
are of uniform Colour, a redish brown; tho the base of the long hairs,
exceed the fur but little in length, as well as the fur itself is of a
Dark colour for at least 2/3ds of it's length next to the Skin. the fur
and hair are very fine, Short, thickly Set, and Silky. the ends of the fur
and tips of the hair is of a redish brown, that colour prodominates in the
ordinary appearance of the Animate. I took this animal to be about the
Size of the barking Squirel of the Missouri. and believe most probably
that it is of the Mustela genus, or perhaps the brown mungo itself I have
in maney instances endeavured to make the nativs Sensiable how anxious I
was to obtain one of those animals entire, without being Skined, and
offered them rewards to furnish me with one, but have not been able to
make them Comprehend me. we have purchased Several of the roabs made of
those Skins to loin a westcoat of the Sea otter, which I have made and
Capt Lewis a Tiger Cat Skin Coat loined with them also, they make a very
pleasant light lighting.
The Rat in the rocky mountains on its west side are like those on the
upper part of the Missouri in and near those Mountains and have the
distingushing trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like other
parts of the body; one of these we caught at the white bear Islands in the
beginning of July last and then partially discribed.
There is rats in this neighbourhood but I have not seen them it is most
probable that they are like those of the Atlantic States, or at least the
native rat of our country which have no hair on their tail. this Specis we
found on the Missouri as far up it as the woody country extended. it is as
large as the Common European house rat or reather larger is of a lighter
Colour bordering more on the lead or drab colour, the hair longer; and the
female has only four tits which are placed far back near the hinder legs.
this rat I have Seen in the Southern parts of the State of Kentucky &
west of the Miami.
The Mouse and mole of this neighbourhood are the Same as those native
animals with us.
The Panther is found indifferently either in the great Plains of Columbia
the Western Side of the Rocky Mountains or on this coast in the timbered
country. it is precisily the Same animal common to the Atlantic States,
and most commonly met with on our frontiers or unsettled parts of the
Country. this animal is Scerce in the Country where they exist and are So
remarkable Shye and watchfull that it is extreamly dificuelt to kill them.
The Polecat is found in every part of the Country. they are very abundant
on Some parts of the Columbia, particularly in the neighbourhood of the
Great falls & Narrows of that river, where they live in the Clifts
along the river & feed on the offal of the Indian fishing Shores. they
are the Same as those of other parts of North America.
[Lewis, February 27, 1806]
Thursday February 27th 1806. Reubin Fields returned this evening and had
not killed anything. he reports that there are no Elk towards point Adams.
Collins who had hunted up the Netul on this side returned in the evening
having killed a buck Elk. Willard still continues very unwell the other
sick men have nearly recovered. Gutridge and McNeal who have the pox are
recovering fast, the former nearly well.
The rat in the Rocky mountain on it's West side are like those on the
upper part of the Missouri in and near those mountains and have the
distinguishing trait of possessing a tail covered with hair like other
parts of the body; one of those we caught at the White bear Islands in the
beginning of July last and was then discribed. I have seen the nests of
those in this neighbourhood but not the animal. I think it most probable
that they are like those of the Atlantic states or at least the native rat
of our country which have no hair on the tail. this species we found on
the Missouri as far up it as the woody country extended. it is as large as
the common European house rat or reather larger, is of a lighter colour
bordering more on the lead or drab colour, the hair longer; and the female
has only four tits which are placed far back near the hinder legs. this
rat I have observed in the Western parts of the State of Georgia and also
in Madison's cave in the state of Virginia the mouse and mole of this
neighbourhood are the same as those native animals with us. The Panther is
found indifferently either in the Great Plains of Columbia, the Western
side of the rocky mountains or on this coast in the timbered country. it
is precisely the same animal common to the Atlantic coast, and most
commonly met with on our frontiers or unsettled parts of the country. this
animal is scarce in the country where they exist and are so remarkable
shye and watchfull that it is extreemly difficult to kill them.
[Clark, February 27, 1806]
Thursday February 27th 1806 Reubin Field returned this evening and had not
killed anything, he reported that there were no Elk towards point Adams.
Collins who had hunted up the Netul on this Side returned in the evening
haveing killed a buck Elk. Willard Still Continue very unwell the other
Sick men have nearly recovered. Goodrich & McNeal who have the Pox are
recovering fast, the former nearly well. La Page complaining.
The Braro so called by the French engages is an animal of the Civit genus
and much resembles the common badger. this is an enhabitent of the open
plains of the Columbia as they are of those of the Missouri, but are
Sometimes also found in the woody country. they burrow in the hard Grounds
in the Plains with Surprising ease and dexterity and will cover themselves
in the Ground in a very fiew minits. they have five long fixed nails on
each foot; those of the fore feet are much the longest; and one of those
on each hind foot is double like those of the beaver. they weigh from 14
to 20 lbs. the body is reather long in perportion to its thickness. the
fore legs remarkably large and muscular and are formed like the turnspit
dog. they are Short as also the hind legs. they are broad across the
Sholders and breast. the neck Short, the head is formed much like the
Common fist dog only that the Skull is more Convex, the mouth is wide and
furnishid with long Sharp teeth, both above and below, and with four Sharp
Streight Pointed tushes, two in the upper and two in the lower jaw. the
eyes are black and Small. Whiskers are placed in four points on each Side
near the nose and on the jaws near the opening of the mouth. the ears are
very Short wide and appressed as if they had been cut off. the appertue
through them to the head is remarkably Small; the tail is about 4 inches
long; the hair longest on it at it's junction, with the body and becomeing
Shorter towards it's extremity where it ends in an accute point. the hairs
of the body are much longer on the Sides and rump than any other part,
which givs the body an appearent flatness, particularly when the animal
rests on it's belly. this hair is upwards of 3 inches in length,
particularly on the rump where it extends so far towards the point of the
tail, that it almost conceals the Shape of that part and givs to all the
hinder part of the body an accute angled triangle, of which the point of
the tail forms the accute angle. the Small quantity of fur which is
intermixed with the hair is of a redish pale yellow. the hair of the back,
Sides upper part of the neck and tail, are of redish light or pale yellow
fox about two thirds of their length from the Skin, next black, and then
tiped with white; forming a curious mixture of grey and fox colourd. red
with a yellowish hue. the belly flanks and breast are of the fox coloured
redish yellow. the legs black, the nails white. the head on which the hair
is short is varigated with black and white. a narrow Strip of white
Commences on the top of the nose about half an inch from its extremity and
extends back along the Center of the forehead and neck nearly to the
Sholders- two Stripes of black Suckceed the white on either Side,
imbraceing the Side of the nose, the eyes, and extends back as far as the
ears. two other Spots of black of a romboidal figure are placed on the
Side of the head near the ears and between them and the opening of the
mouth. two black Spots also imediately behind the ears. the other part of
the head white. this animal feeds on flesh, roots, bugs and wild fruits.
it is very clumsy and runs very Slow, depending more on burring to Secure
it Self than running. I have in Several instances out run and caught this
animal. in this respect they are not much more fleet than the porcupine.
[Lewis, February 28, 1806]
Friday February 28th 1806. Reubin Fields and Collins set out this morning
early on a hunting excurtion. Kuskelar a Clatsop man and his wife visited
us today. they brought some Anchovies, Sturgeon, a beaver robe, and some
roots for sail tho they asked so high a price for every article that we
purchased nothing but a part of a Sturgeon for which we gave a few fishing
hooks. we suffered them to remain all night. Shields Jos. Fields and
Shannon returned late this evening having killed five Elk tho two of them
ar on a mountain at a considerable distance. we ordered these hunters to
return early in the morning and continue their hunt, and Sergt. Gass to
take a party and go in quest of the Elk which they had killed. the hunters
inform us that the Elk are tolerable plenty near the mountains about 9 or
ten miles distant. Kuskelar brought a dog which Cruzatte had purchased.
The hare on this side of the Rocky mountains is exclusively the inhabitant
of the great Plains of Columbia, as they are of those of the Missouri East
of these mountains. they weigh from 7 to eleven pounds. the measure of one
which weighed ten lbs. was as follows. from the extremity of the hinder,
to that of the fore feet when extended 3 F. length from nose to the
extremity of the tail 2 F. 2 I. hight when standing erect 1 F. 3 I. girth
of the body 1 F. 4 I. length of tail 61/2 I. length of ear 51/2 I. width
of do 3 1/8 I. from the hip to the extremity of toe of the hind foot 1 F.
41/4 I. — the eye is large and prominent. the pupil is circular, of a
deep sea green and occupys one third of the diameter of the eye, the iris
is of a bright yellowish silver colour. the ears are placed far back on
the head and very near each other, they are flexable and the animal moves
them with great ease and quickness, and can dilate and throw them forward,
or contract and fold them on his back at pleasure. the fold of the front
of the ear is of a redish brown colour, the inner folds or those which lie
together when the ears are thrown back, and which occupy 2/3ds of the
width of the ears are of a pure white except the tips of the ears for
about an inch. the hinder folds or those which lie on the back are of a
light grey. the head neck, back, sholders, sides, & outer part of the
legs and thyes are of a lead coloured grey; the sides as they approach the
belley become gradually more white. the belley, brest, and inner part of
the legs and thyes are white, with a slight shade of the lead colour. the
tail is round and blontly pointed, covered with fine soft white fur not
quite as long as on the other parts of the body. the body is covered with
a deep fine soft close fur. the colours here discribed are those which the
animal assumes from the middle of April to the middle of November, the
ballance of the year they are of a pure white, except the black and redish
brown of the ears which never changes. a few redish brown spots are
sometimes seen intermixed with the white, at this season, on their heads
and upper part of the neck and sholders. the body of this animal is
smaller and longer in proportion to it's hight than the rabbit. when it
runs it carrys it's tail streight behind in the direction of it's body.
they appear to run with more ease and bound with greater agility than any
animal I ever saw. they are extreemly fleet and never burrow or take
sheter in the ground when pursued. it's teeth are like those of the rabbit
as is also it's upper lip which is divided as high as the nose. it's food
is grass, herbs, and in winter feeds much on the bark of several aromatic
shrubs which grow in the plains and the young willow along the rivers and
other wartercourses. — I have measured the leaps of this animal and
find them commonly from 18 to 21 feet. they are generally found seperate,
and never seen to asscociate in any number or more than two or three. — the
rabbit are the same of our country and are found indifferently either in
the praries or woodlands. they are not very abundant in this country. The
Pole-cat is also found in every part of the country. they are very
abundant on some parts of the columbia, particularly in the neighbourhood
of the great falls and narrows of that river, where they live in the
clifts along the river and feed on the offal of the Indian fishing shores.
these are the same as those of other parts of North America.
[Clark, February 28, 1806]
Friday February 28th 1806 Reuben Field and Collins Set out this morning
early on a hunting excurtion up the Netul. Kus ke-lar a Clatsop man, his
wife and a Small boy (a Slave, who he informed me was his Cook, and offerd
to Sell him to me for beeds & a gun) visited us to day they brought
Some anchovies, Sturgeon, a beaver robe, and Some roots for Sale tho they
asked Such high prices for every article that we purchased nothing but a
part of a Sturgeon for which we gave a fiew fishing hooks. we Suffered
them to Stay all night. Shields Jos. Field and Shannon returned late this
evening haveing killed five Elk tho two of them are of a mountain at a
considerable distance. we ordered these hunters to return early in the
morning and continue the hunt, and Sergt. Gass to take a party and go in
quest of the Elk which they had killed. the hunters informed us that the
Elk is tolerable plenty near the mountains about nine or ten miles
distant. Kuskalaw brought a dog which Peter Crusat had purchased with his
Capo which this fellow had on.
The Hare on this Side of the Rocky Mountains is exclusively the
inhabitents of the Great Plains of Columbia, as they are of those of the
Missouri East of the mountains. they weigh from 7 to 12 pounds. the
measure of one which weighed 10 pounds, was as follows. from the extremity
of the hinder, to that of the fore feet when extended 3 Feet. length from
nose to the extremity of the tail 2 feet, 2 inches. Hight when Standing
erect 1 foot, 3 inches-. Girth of the body 1 foot, 4 inches-. length of
tail 61/2 inches-. length of ear 51/2 inches-. width of ear 3 inches and
1/8-. from the hip to the extremity of toe of the hind foot 1 foot 41/4
inches-. The eye is large and prominent. the pupil is circular, of a deep
Sea Green and Occupies one third of the diamiter of the eye, the iris is
of a bright yellowish silver colour. The ears are placed far back on the
head and very near each other, they are flexable and the animal moves them
with great ease and quickness and can dilate and throw them foward, or
contract and fold them on his back at pleasure. the fold of the front of
the ear is of a redish brown colour, the inner folds are those which lie
together when the ears are thrown back, and which occupies 2/3ds of the
width of the ears of a pure white except the tips of the ears for about an
inch. the hinder folds or those which lie on the back are of a light grey;
the Sides as they approach the belly become gradually more white, the
belly brest, and inner part of the legs and thyes are white, with a Slight
Shade of a lead Colour. The Head, neck, back Sholders, Sides, outer part
of the legs and thyes are of a Lead Coloured Grey. the tail is bluntly
pointed and round, covered with fine Soft white fur not quite as long as
on the other parts of the body. the body is covered with a deep fine Soft
close fur. the colours here discribed are those which the Animale assumes
from the middle of April to the middle of November, the ballance of the
year they are of a pure white, except the black and redish brown of the
ears which never changes. a fiew redish brown spots are Sometimes Seen
intermixed with the white, at this Season on the heads and upper parts of
the neck an Sholders. The body of this animal is Smaller and longer in
purpotion to it's hight than the Rabbit. when it runs it carrys its tail
Streight behind in the direction of it's body. they appear to run with
more ease and bound with greater agility than any animal I ever saw. they
are extreemly fleet and never burrow or take Shelter in the grounds when
pursued. it's teeth are like those of the rabit, as is also its upper lip
which is divided as high as the nose. it's food is Grass, herbs, and in
winter feeds much on the bark of Several arematic Shrubs which grow in the
plains and the young willows along the rivers and other water courses. — I
have measured the leaps of this animal and find them commonly from 18 to
22 feet. they are Generally found Seperate, and never Seen to associate in
any number or more than two or three.
[Lewis, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March 1st 1806. This morning Sergt. Gass and a party set out in
quest of the Elk which had been killed by the hunters the day before
yesterday. they returned with the flesh of three of them late in the
evening. Thompson was left with the hunters in order to jurk and take care
of the flesh of the remaining two. Kuskelar and wife left us about noon.
he had a good looking boy of about 10 years of age with him who he
informed us was his slave. this boy had been taken prisoner by the
Killamucks from some nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great
distance. like other Indian nations they adopt their slaves in their
families and treat them very much as their own children. Reubin Fields and
Collins who have been absent since yesterday morning returned without
having killed any game. The birds of the Western side of the Rocky
Mountain to the Pacific Ocean, for convenience I shall divide into two
classes, which I shal designate from the habits of the birds, Terrestrial
and Aquatic.
The Grouse or Prarie hen is peculiarly the inhabitant of the Grait Plains
of Columbia they do not differ from those of the upper portion of the
Missouri, the tail of which is pointed or the feathers in it's center much
longer than those on the sides. this Species differs essentially in the
construction of this part of their plumage from those of the Illinois
which have their tails composed of fathers of equal length. in the winter
season this bird is booted even to the first joint of it's toes. the toes
are also curiously bordered on their lower edges with narrow hard scales
which are placed very close to each other and extend horizontally about
1/8 of an inch on each side of the toes thus adding to the width of the
tread which nature seems bountifully to have furnished them at this season
for passing over the snow with more ease. in the summer season those
scales fall off. They have four toes on each foot. Their colour is a
mixture of dark brown redish and yellowish brown and white confusedly
mixed in which the redish brown prevails most on the upper parts of the
body wings and tail and the white underneath the belley and lower parts of
the breast and tail. they associate in large flocks in autumn & winter
and are frequently found in flocks of from five to six even in summer.
They feed on grass, insects, the leaves of various shrubs in the plains
and on the seeds of several species of spelts and wild rye which grow in
the richer parts of the plains. in winter their food is the buds of the
willow & Cottonwood also the most of the native berries furnish them
with food.The Indians of this neighbourhood eat the root of the Cattail or
Cooper's flag. it is pleasantly taisted and appears to be very nutricious.
the inner part of the root which is eaten without any previous preperation
is composed of a number of capillary white flexable strong fibers among
which is a mealy or starch like substance which readily desolves in the
mouth and separate from the fibers which are then rejected. it appears to
me that this substance would make excellent starch; nothing can be of a
purer white than it is.
[Clark, March 1, 1806]
Saturday March the 1st 1806 This morning we despatched Sergt. Gass with 12
men in two Canoes in quest of the Elk which had been killed by the hunters
the day before yesterday. they returned with the flesh of three of them
late in the evening. Thompson was left with the hunters in order to jurk
and take care of the flesh of the remaining two. Kuskalar &c. left us
about noon. The boy which this Indian offered to Sell to me is about 10
years of age. this boy had been taken prisoner by the Kit a mox from Some
Nation on the Coast to the S. East of them at a great distance. like other
Indian nations they adopt their Slaves in their famelies and treat them
very much like their own Children. Reuben Field and Collins who had been
absent Since yesterday morning returned without killing any thing.
The birds on the western Side of the Rocky Mountain's to the Pacific Ocian
for Convenience I Shall devide into from the habit of the birds,
Terrestrial and Aquatic. i e Fowls of the air, and fowls of the water.
The Prarie Hen sometimes called the Grouse is peculiarly the inhabitent of
the Great Plains of Columbia. they do not differ from those of the upper
portion of the Missouri, the tails of which is pointed or the feathers in
its center much longer than those on the Sides. this Species differ
assentially in the construction of this part of their plumage from those
of the Illinois which have their tail composed of feathers of equal
length. in the winter Season this berd is booted even to the first joint
of it's toes. the toes are also curiously bordered on their lower edges
with narrow hard scales which are placed very close to each other and
extend horizontally about 1/8 of an inch on each Side of the toe, thus
adding to the width of the tread which nature Seams bountifully to have
furnished them with at this Season for passing over the Snow with more
ease. in the Summer Season those Scales fall off. they have four toes on
each foot. their colour is a mixture of dark brown redish and yellowish
brown and white confusedly mixed in which the redish brown prevails most
on the upper parts of the body wings and tail. and the white underneath
the belley and lower parts of the breast and tail. they associate in large
flocks in autumn & winter and are frequently found in flocks of from
five to Six even in Summer. They feed on grass, insects, the leaves of
various Shrubs in the Praries, and on the Seeds of Several Species of
Spelts and wild rye which grow in the richer parts of the Plains. in the
winter their food is the buds of the willow and Cottonwood also the most
of the native berries furnish them with food. they cohabit in flock &
the Cocks fight verry much at those Seasons.
[Lewis, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2cd The diet of the sick is so inferior that they recover
their strength but slowly. none of them are now sick but all in a state of
convalessence with keen appetites and nothing to eat except lean Elk meat.
late this evening Drewyer arrived with a most acceptable supply of fat
Sturgeon, fresh Anchovies and a bag containing about a bushel of Wappetoe.
we feasted on Anchovies and Wappetoe.
The Cock of the Plains is found in the plains of Columbia and are in Great
abundance from the entrance of the S. E. fork of the Columbia to that of
Clark's river. this bird is about 2/3rds the size of a turkey. the beak is
large short curved and convex. the upper exceeding the lower chap. the
nostrils are large and the beak black. the colour is an uniform mixture of
dark brown reather bordeing on a dove colour, redish and yellowish brown
with some small black specks. in this mixture the dark brown prevails and
has a slight cast of the dove colour at a little distance. the wider side
of the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. the tail is
composed of 19 feathers of which that in the center is the longest, and
the remaining 9 on each side deminish by pairs as they receede from the
center; that is any one feather is equal in length to one equa distant
from the center of the tail on the oposite side. the tail when foalded
comes to a very sharp point and appears long in proportion to the body. in
the act of flying the tail resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho the motion
of the wings is much that of the pheasant and Grouse. they have four toes
on each foot of which the hinder one is short. the leg is covered with
feathers about half the distance between the knee and foot. when the wing
is expanded there are wide opening between it's feathers the plumeage
being so narrow that it dose not extend from one quill to the other. the
wings are also proportionably short, reather more so than those of the
pheasant or grouse. the habits of this bird are much the same as those of
the grouse. only that the food of this fowl is almost entirely that of the
leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn; nor do I ever recollect seeing
this bird but in the neighbourhood of that shrub. they sometimes feed on
the prickley pear. the gizzard of it is large and much less compressed and
muscular than in most fowls; in short it resembles a maw quite as much as
a gizzard. when they fly they make a cackling noise something like the
dunghill fowl. the following is a likeness of the head and beak. the flesh
of the cock of the Plains is dark, and only tolerable in point of flavor.
I do not think it as good as either the Pheasant or Grouse. — it is
invariably found in the plains.The feathers about it's head are pointed
and stif some hairs about the base of the beak. feathers short fine and
stif about the ears.
[Clark, March 2, 1806]
Sunday March 2nd 1806 The diet of the Sick is So inferior that they
recover their Strength but Slowly. none of them are now Sick but all in a
State of Covelessence with keen appetites and nothing to eate except lean
Elk meat.
The nativs of this neighbourhood eate the root of the Cattail or Cooper's
flag. it is pleasantly tasted and appears to be very nutrecious. the inner
part of the root which is eaten without any previous preperation is
Composed of a number of capellary white flexable Strong fibers among which
is a mealy or Starch like Substance which readily disolves in the mouth
and Seperates from the fibers which are then rejected. it appears to me
that this Substance would make excellent Starch; nothing Can be of a
pureer white than it is
This evening late Drewyer, Crusat & Wiser returned with a most
acceptable Supply of fat Sturgen, fresh anchoves and a bag Containing
about a bushel of Wappato. we feasted on the Anchovies and wappatoe..
The Heath Cock or cock of the Plains is found in the Plains of Columbia
and are in great abundance from the enterance of Lewis's river to the
mountains which pass the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids of
that river. this fowl is about 3/4ths the Size of a turkey. the beak is
large Short Curved and convex. the upper exceeding the lower chap. the
nostrils are large and the back black. the Colour is a uniform mixture of
dark brown reather bordering on a dove colour, redish and yellowish brown
with Some Small black Specks. in this mixture the dark brown provails and
has a Slight cast of the dove colour at a little distance. the wider side
of the larger feathers of the wings are of a dark brown only. the tail is
composed of 19 feathers of which that in the center is the longest, and
the remaining 9 on each Side deminish by pairs as they receede from the
Center; that is any one feather is equal in length to one of an equal
distance from the Center of the tail on the opposit Side. the tail when
folded Comes to a very Sharp point and appears long in perpotion to the
body in the act of flying the tail resembles that of a wild pigeon. tho
the motion of the wings is much that of the Pheasant and Grouse. they have
four toes on each foot of which the hinder one is Short. the leg is
covered with feathers about half the distance between the knee and foot.
when the wings is expanded there are wide opening between it's feathers,
the plumage being So narrow that it does not extend from one quill to
another. the wings are also propotionably Short, reather more So than
those of the Pheasant or Grouse. the habits of this bird is much the Same
as those of the Prarie hen or Grouse. only that the food of this fowl is
almost entirely that of the leaf and buds of the pulpy leafed thorn, nor
do I ever recollect Seeing this bird but in the neighbourhood of that
Shrub. The gizzard of it is large and much less compressed and muscular
than in most fowls, in Short it resembles a maw quite as much as a
gizzard. When they fly they make a cackling noise Something like the
dunghill fowl. the flesh of this fowl is dark and only tolerable in point
of flavour. I do not think it as good as wth the Pheasant or Prarie hen,
or Grouse. the feathers above it's head are pointed and Stiff Some hairs
about the base of the beak. feathers Short fine and Stiff about the ears,
and eye. This is a faint likeness of the Cock of the plains or Heath Cock
the first of those fowls which we met with was on the Missouri below and
in the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains and from to the mountain which
passes the Columbia between the Great falls and Rapids they go in large
gangues or Singularly and hide remarkably close when pursued, make Short
flights, &c.
The large Black & White Pheasant is peculiar to that portion of the
Rocky Mountains watered by the Columbia River. at least we did not See
them untill we reached the waters of that river, nor Since we have left
those mountains. they are about the Size of a well grown hen. the contour
of the bird is much that of the redish brown Pheasant common to our
country. the tail is proportionably as long and is composed of 18 feathers
of equal length, of a uniform dark brown tiped with black. the feathers of
the body are of a dark brown black and white. the black is that which most
prodomonates, and white feathers are irregularly intermixed with those of
the black and dark brown on every part but in greater perpotion about the
neck breast and belly. this mixture gives it very much the appearance of
that kind of dunghill fowl, which the henwives of our Countrey Call
dommanicker. in the brest of Some of those birds the white prodominates
most. they are not furnished with tufts of long feathers on the neck as
other Pheasants are, but have a Space on each Side of the neck about 21/2
inches long and one inch in width on which no feathers grow, tho it is
consealed by the feathers which are inserted on the hinder and front part
of the neck, this Space Seams to Serve them to dilate or contract the
feathers of the neck with more ease. the eye is dark, the beak black,
uncovered Somewhat pointed and the upper exceeds the under chap. they have
a narrow Strip of vermillion colour above each eye which consists of a
fleshey Substance not protuberant but uneaven, with a number of minute
rounded dots. it has four toes on each foot of which three are in front,
it is booted to the toes. it feeds on wild fruits, particularly the berry
of the Sac-a-com-mis, and much also on the Seed of the pine & fir.
this fowl is usially found in Small numbers two and three & 4 together
on the ground. when Supprised flies up & lights on a tree and is
easily Shot their flesh is Superior to most of the Pheasant Species which
we have met with. they have a gizzard as other Pheasants &c. feed also
on the buds of the Small Huckleberry bushes
[Lewis, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806. Two of our perogues have been lately injured very
much in consequence of the tide leaving them partially on shore. they
split by this means with their own weight. we had them drawn out on shore.
our convalessents are slowly on the recovery. Lapage is taken sick, gave
him a doze of Scots pills which did not operate. no movement of the party
today worthy of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and we are
counting the days which seperate us from the 1st of April and which bind
us to fort Clatsop. — The large black and white pheasant is peculiar
to that portion of the Rocky Mountain watered by the Columbia river. at
least we did not see them in these mountains until I we reached the waters
of that river nor since we have left those mountains. they are about the
size of a well grown hen. the contour of the bird is much that of the
redish brown pheasant common to our country. the tail is proportionably as
long and is composed of eighteen feathers of equal length, of an uniform
dark brown tiped with black. the feathers of the body are of a dark brown
black and white. the black is that which most predominates, and white
feathers are irregularly intermixed with those of the black and dark brown
on every part, but in greater proportion about the neck breast and belley.
this mixture gives it very much the appearance of that kind of dunghill
fowl which the hen-wives of our country call dom-manicker. in the brest of
some of these birds the white predominates most. they are not furnished
with tufts of long feathers on the neck as our pheasants are, but have a
space on each side of the neck about 21/2 inches long and 1 In. in width
on which no feathers grow, tho tis concealed by the feathers which are
inserted on the hinder and front part of the neck; this space seems to
surve them to dilate or contract the feathers of the neck with more ease.
the eye is dark, the beak black, curved somewhat pointed and the upper
exceeds the under chap. they have a narrow stripe of vermillion colour
above each eye which consists of a fleshey substance not protuberant but
uneven with a number of minute rounded dots. it has four toes on each foot
of which three are in front. it is booted to the toes. it feeds on wild
fruits, particularly the berry of the sac-a-commis, and much also on the
seed of the pine and fir.
The small speckled pheasant found in the same country with that above
discribed, differs from it only in point of size and somewhat in colour.
it is scarcely half the size of the other; ascociates in much larger
flocks and is very gentle. the black is more predominant and the dark bron
feathers less frequent in this than the larger species. the mixture of
white is also more general on every part of this bird. it is considerably
smaller than our pheasant and the body reather more round. in other
particulars they differ not at all from the large black and white
pheasant. this by way of distinction I have called the speckled pheasant.
the flesh of both these species of party coloured phesants is of a dark
colour and with the means we had of cooking them not very well flavored.
The small brown pheasant is an inhabitant of the same country and is of
the size and shape of the specled pheasant which it also resembles in it's
economy and habits. the stripe above the eye in this species is scarcely
perceptable, and is when closely examined of a yellow or orrange colour
instead of the vermillion of the outhers. it's colour is an uniform
mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a slight mixture of brownish
white on the breast belley and the feathers underneath the tail. the whol
compound is not unlike that of the common quail only darker. this is also
booted to the toes. the flesh of this is preferable to either of the
others and that of the breast is as white as the pheasant of the Atlantic
coast.the redish brown pheasant has been previously discribed. — The
Crow raven and Large Blackbird are the same as those of our country only
that the crow is here much smaller yet it's note is the same. I observe no
difference either between the hawks of this coast and those of the
Atlantic. I have observed the large brown hawk, the small or sparrow hawk,
and the hawk of an intermediate size with a long tail and blewish coloured
wings remarkably swift in flight and very firce. sometimes called in the U
States the hen hawk. these birds seem to be common to every part of this
country, and the hawks crows & ravens build their nests in great
numbers along the high and inaccessable clifts of the Columbia river and
it's S. E. branch where we passed along them. — we also met with the
large hooting Owl under the Rocky mountain on the Kooskoskee river. it did
not appear to differ materially from those of our country. I think it's
colours reather deeper and brighter than with us, particularly the redish
brown. it is the same size and form.
[Clark, March 3, 1806]
Monday March 3rd 1806 Two of our Canoes have been lately injured very much
in consequence of the tide leaveing them partially on Shore. they Split by
this means with their own weight. we had them drawn out on Shore. our
convalessents are Slowly on the recovery. La page is taken Sick. gave him
Some of Scotts Pills which did not opperate. no movement of the party to
day worthey of notice. every thing moves on in the old way and we are
Counting the days which Seperate us from the 1st of April, & which
bind us to Fort Clatsop...
The Small Speckled Pheasant found in the Rocky Mountains, and differ from
the large black and white pheasant only in point of Size, and Somewhat in
colour. it is scercely half the Size of the other; assosiates in much
larger flocks and is also very gentle. the black is more predominate and
the dark brown feathers less frequent in this than the larger Species. the
mixture of white is also more general on every part of this bird. it is
considerably Smaller than our Pheasant and the body reather more round. in
other particulars they differ not at all, from the large black and white
Pheasant. this by way of distinction I have called the Speckled Pheasant.
the flesh of both these Species of party coloured Pheasant is of a dark
colour, and with the means we had of cooking them were only tolerably
flavoured tho these birds would be fine well cooked.
The small Brown Pheasant is an inhabitant of the Same Country and is of
the Size and Shape of the Speckled Pheasant, which it also resembles in
it's economy and habits, the Stripe above the eye in this Species is
scercely preceptable and is when closely examined of a yellow or orrange
colour in Sted of the vermillion of the others. it's colour is of a
uniform mixture of dark and yellowish brown with a Slight mixture of
brownish white on the breast belley and the feathers under the tail. the
whole Compound is not unlike that of the Common quaile only darker. this
is also booted to the toes. the flesh is tolerable and that of the breast
is as white as the Pheasant of the atlantic coast. the redish brown
Pheasant has been previously discribed..
The Crow Ravin and large Blackbird are the Same as those of our Country,
only that the Crow here is much Smaller, yet its note is the Same. I
observe no difference between the Hawk of this Coast and those of the
Atlantic. I have observed the large brown Hawk, the Small or Sparrow hawk,
and a hawk of an intermediate Size with a long tail and blewish coloured
wings, remarkably Swift in flight and very ferce. Sometimes called in the
Un. States the hen Hawk. those birds Seam to be common to every part of
this Country in greater or smaller numbers, and the Hawks, Crows, and
ravins build their nests in great numbers along the high &
inaxcessable clifts of the Columbia, and Lewis's rivers when we passd
along them. we also met with the large hooting Owl under the Rocky
mountains on the Kooskooske R. it's Colour reather deeper than with us,
but differ in no other respect from those of the U States.
[Lewis, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806. Not any occurrence today worthy of notice. we live
sumptuously on our wappetoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that
they soon become tainted unless pickled or smoked. the natives run a small
stick through their gills and hang them in the smoke of their lodges, or
kindle a small fire under them for the purpose of drying them. they need
no previous preperation of guting &c and will cure in 24 hours. the
natives do not appear to be very scrupelous about eating them when a
little feated. — the fresh sturgeon they keep for many days by
immersing it in water. they coock their sturgeon by means of vapor or
steam. the process is as follows. a brisk fire is kindled on which a
parcel of stones are lad. when the fire birns down and the stones are
sufficiently heated, the stones are so arranged as to form a tolerable
level surface, the sturgeon which had been previously cut into large
fletches is now laid on the hot stones; a parsel of small boughs of bushes
is next laid on and a second course of the sturgeon thus repating
alternate layers of sturgeon and boughs untill the whole is put on which
they design to cook. it is next covered closely with matts and water is
poared in such manner as to run in among the hot stones and the vapor
arrising being confined by the mats, cooks the fish. the whole process is
performed in an hour, and the sturgeon thus cooked is much better than
either boiled or roasted.
The turtle dove and robbin are the same of our country and are found as
well in the plain as open country. the Columbian robbin heretofore
discribed seems to be the inhabitant of the woody country exclusively. the
Magpy is most commonly found in the open country and are the same with
those formerly discribed on the Missouri. the large woodpecker or log
cock, the lark woodpeckers and the small white woodpecker with a read head
are the same with those of the Atlantic states and are found exclusively
in the timbered country. The blue crested Corvus and the small white
breasted do have been previously discribed and are the natives of a piney
country invariably, being found as well on the rocky mountains as on this
coast. — the lark is found in the plains only and are the same with
those before mentioned on the Missouri, and not very unlike what is called
in Virginia the old field lark. — The large bluefish brown or sandhill
Crain are found in the valley of the Rocky mountains in Summer and Autumn
where they raise their young, and in the winter and begining of spring on
this river below tidewater and on this coast. they are the same as those
common to the Southern and Western States where they are most generally
known by the name of the Sandhill crain. The vulture has also been
discribed. there are two species of the flycatch, a small redish brown
species with a short tail, round body, short neck and short pointed beak.
they have some fine black specks intermixed with the uniform redish brown.
this the same with that which remains all winter in Virginia where it is
sometimes called the wren. the second species has lately returned and dose
not remain here all winter. it's colours are a yellowish brown on the back
head neck wings and tail the breast and belley of a yellowish white; the
tail is in proportion as the wren but it is a size smaller than that bird.
it's beak is streight pointed convex reather lage at the base and the
chaps of equal length. the first species is the smallest, in short it is
the smalest bird that I have ever seen in America except the humming bird.
both these species are found in the woody country only or at least I have
never seen them elsewhere.
[Clark, March 4, 1806]
Tuesday March 4th 1806 Not any accurrance to day worthy of notice. we live
Sumptiously on our wappatoe and Sturgeon. the Anchovey is so delicate that
they Soon become tainted unless pickled or Smoked. the nativs run a Small
Stick through their gills and hang them in the Smoke of their Lodges, or
Kindle Small fires under them for the purpose of drying them. they need no
previous preperation of gutting &c. and will Cure in 24 hours. the
nativs do not appear to be very Scrupilous about eating them a little
feated.
the fresh sturgeon they Keep maney days by immersing it in water. they
Cook their Sturgeon by means of vapor or Steam. the process is as follows.
a brisk fire is kindled on which a parcel of Stones are Sufficiently
heated, the Stones are So arranged as to form a tolerable leavel Surface,
the Sturgeon which had been previously cut into large flaetches is now
laid on the hot Stones; a parcel of Small boughs of bushes is next laid
on, and a Second course of the Sturgeon thus repeating alternate layers of
Sturgeon & boughs untill the whole is put on which they design to
Cook. it is next covered closely with mats and water is poared in Such
manner as to run in among the hot Stones, and the vapor arriseing being
confind by the mats, cooks the fish. the whole process is performd in an
hour and the Sturgeon thus Cooked is much better than either boiled or
roasted. in their usial way of bolting of other fish in baskets with hot
Stones is not so good.
The turtle doves and robin are the Same of those of our countrey and are
found as well as the plains as open countrey. the Columbia robin
heretofore discribed Seams to be the inhabitent of the woody Country
exclusively. the magpye is most commonly found in the open Country and are
the Same with those formerly discribed on the Missouri.
The large wood pecker or log cock the lark woodpecker and the common wood
pecker with a red head are the Same with those of the Atlantic States, and
are found exclusively in the timbered Country. The Blue crested Corvus and
the Small white brested corvus are the nativs of a piney country
invariably, being found as well on the Rocky Mountains as on this coast-.
The lark is found in the plains only and are the Same with those on the
Missouri and the Illinois and not unlike what is Called in Virginia the
old field Lark.
The large bluish brown or Sandhill Crain are found in the Vally's of the
Rocky Mountain in Summer and autumn when they raise their young and in the
winter and beginning of Spring on this river below tide water and on this
coast. they are the Same as those Common to the Southern and Western
States where they are most generally known by the name of the Sand hill
Crain. The Vulture has already been discribed.
There are two Species of fly Catch, a Small redish brown with a Short
tail, round body, Short neck, and Short pointed beak, and the Same as that
with us sometimes called the Wren. the 2d Species does not remain all
winter they have just returned and are of a Yellowish brown Colour.
[Lewis, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806. This morning we were visited by two parties of
Clatsops. they brought some fish a hat and some skins for sale most of
which we purchased. they returned to their village in the evening. late in
the evening the hunters returned from the kil-haw-a-nack-kle River which
discharges itself into the head of the bay. They had neither killed nor
seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk had all gone off to the
mountains a considerable distance from us. this is unwelcome information
and reather allarming we have only 2 days provision on hand, and that
nearly spoiled. we made up a small assortment of articles to trade with
the Indians and directed Sergt. Pryor to set out early in the morning in a
canoe with 2 men, to ascend the Columbia to the resort of the Indian
fishermen and purchase some fish; we also directed two parties of hunters
to renew the Chase tomorrow early. the one up the Netul and the other
towards Point Adams. if we find that the Elk have left us, we have
determined to ascend the river slowly and indeavour to procure subsistence
on the way, consuming the Month of March in the woody country. earlyer
than April we conceive it a folly to attempt the open plains where we know
there is no fuel except a few small dry shrubs. we shall not leave our
quarters at fort Clatsop untill the first of April, as we intended unless
the want of subsistence compels us to that measure. The common snipe of
the marshes and the small sand snipe are the same of those common to the
Atlantic Coast tho the former are by no means as abundant here. the
prarrow of the woody country is also similar to ours but not abundant.
those of the plains of Columbia are the same with those of the Missouri,
tho they are by no means so abundant. I have not seen the little singing
lark or the large brown Curloo so common to the plains of the Missouri,
but I beleive that the latter is an inhabitant of this country during
summer from Indian information. I have no doubt but what many species of
birds found here in Autumn and Summer had departed before our arrival.
[Clark, March 5, 1806]
Wednesday March 5th 1806. This morning we were visited by two parties of
Clatsops they brought Some fish, a hat and Some Skins for Sale most of
which we purchased, they returned to their Village in the evening with the
returning tide. late in the evening the Hunters returned from the
Kil-haw-d nack-kle River which discharges itself into the head of the Bay.
They had neither killed nor Seen any Elk. they informed us that the Elk
had all gorn off to the mountains a considerable distance from us. this is
unwelcom information and reather alarming. we have only two days
provisions on hand and that nearly Spoiled. we made up a Small assortment
of Articles to trade with the Indians, and directed Sergt Natl. Pryor to
Set out early in the morning in a canoe with two men, to assend the
Columbia to the resort of the Indians fishermen and purchase Some fish; we
also derected two parties of hunters to renew the chase tomorrow early.
the one up the Netul, and the other towards point Adams. If we find that
the Elk have left us, we have determined to assend the river slowly and
endeaver to precure Subsistance on the way, Consumeing the month of March
in the woody Country, earlyer than april we conceive it a folly to attempt
the Open plains where we know there is no fuel except a fiew Small dry
Shrubs. we Shall not leave our quarters at Fort Clatsop untill the 1st of
April as we intended, unless the want of Subsistance compels us to that
measure.
The common Snipe of the marshes and the Small sand snipe are the same of
those Common to the atlantic coast tho the former are by no means as
abundant here.
The Sparrow of the woody country is also Similar to ours but not abundant.
those of the plains of Columbia are the Same with those of the Missouri.
tho they are by no means So Abundant. I have not Seen the little Singing
lark or the large brown Curloe So Common to the Plains of the Missouri.
but believe the Curloe is an inhabitent of this Countrey dureing Summer
from Indian information and their attemps to mimick the notes of this
fowl. I have no doubt but what maney Species of birds found here in autumn
and Summer had departed before our arrival.
The Aquatic Birds of this country or such as obtain their Subsistence from
the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing Hawk, blue crested
fisher, Gulls of Several Species of the Coast, the large grey Gull of the
Columbia, Comorant, loons of two Species, white and the brown brant, Small
and large Geese, small and large Swans, the Duckinmallard, canvis back
Duck, red headed fishing Duck, black and white duck, little brown Duck,
Black Duck, two Species of Divers, blue winged teal, 14 and Some other
Species of Ducks, two Species of Plevers.
The hunters who were out last informed me that they discovered a very
Considerable fall in the Kit-haw-a-nack-kle River on its main western fork
at which place it falls abt. 100 feet from the Side of a mountain S. E.
about 6 miles from Fort Clatsop and nearly 15 from its enterance into the
bay by the Meanderings of this river a high mountain is Situated S 60° W.
about 18 miles from Fort Clatsop on which there has been Snow Since Nov.
[Lewis, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806. This morning the fishing and hunting parties set
out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. at 11 A.M. we
were visited by Comowoll and two of his children. he presented us with
some Anchovies which had been well cured in their manner. we foud them
excellent. they were very acceptable particularly at this moment. we gave
the old man some small articles in return. this we have found much the
most friendly and decent savage that we have met with in this
neighbourhood. Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the
fall of a large stick of timber; the bones were fortunately not broken and
I expect he will be able to walk again shortly. Bratton is now weaker than
any of the convalessants, all of whom recover slowly in consequence of the
want of proper diet, which we have it not in our power to procure.
The Aquatic birds of this country, or such as obtain their subsistence
from the water, are the large blue and brown heron, fishing hawk, blue
crested fisher, gulls of several species of the Coast, the large grey gull
of the Columbia, Cormorant, loons of two species, white, and the brown
brant, small and large geese, small and large Swan, the Duckinmallard,
canvis back duck, red headed fishing duck, black and white duck, little
brown duck, black duck, two speceis of divers, blue winged teal, and some
other speceis of ducks.
[Clark, March 6, 1806]
Thursday March 6th 1806 This morning, the fishing and hunting party's Set
out agreeably to their instructions given them last evening. At 11 a.m. we
were visited by Commowoll and two boys Sons of his. he presented us with
Some Anchovies which had been well Cured in their manner, we found them
excellent. they were very acceptable perticularly at this moment. we gave
the old mans Sones a twisted wire to ware about his neck, and I gave him a
par of old glovs which he was much pleased with. this we have found much
the most friendly and decent Indian that we have met with in this
neighbourhood.
Hall had his foot and ankle much injured yesterday by the fall of a log
which he had on his Sholder; the bones are fortunately not broken, I
expect he will be able to walk again Shortly. Bratten is now weaker than
any of the convalessants, and complains verry much of his back, all of
them recovering Slowly in consequence of the want of proper diet, which we
have it not in our power to precure.
The large Blue and brown Herons or crains as they are usialy called in the
U States are found below tide water. they are the Same of those of the U,
States. The Fishing Hawk with the Crown of the head white, and back of a
milkey white, and the blue crested or king fisher are found on every part
of the Columbia and its water Along which we passed and are the Same with
those of the U, States. the fishing hawk is not abundant, particularly in
the mountains. There are 4 Species of the larus or gull on this coast and
river. 1st a Small Species the Size of a Pegion; white except some black
spots about the head and the little bone on the but of the wing. 2d a
Species Somewhat larger of a light brown colour, with a mealy coloured
back. 3rd the large Grey Gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back,
and light grey belly and breast, about the Size of a well grown pullet,
the wings are remarkably long in perpotion to the Size of the body and
it's under chap towards the extremity is gibbous and protuberant than in
either of the other Species. a White Gull about the Size of the Second
with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and on the base of the upper
Chap there is an elivated orning of the Same Substance with the beak which
forms the nostriels at A; it is Somewhat in this form. the feet are webed
and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the form of the wings body &c
are much that of the 2d Species this bird was Seen on Haleys bay.
The large Grey Gull is found on the Columbian waters as high as the
enterence of the Koos koos ke and in common with the other Species on the
coast; the others appear confined to the tidewater, and the 4th Species
not So common as either of the others. The Comorant is a large black duck
which feeds on fish; I proceive no difference between it & these found
in the rivers of the Atlantic Coasts. we met with as high up the river as
the enterance of the Chopunnish into the Kooskooske river. they increased
in numbers as we decended, and formed much the Greatest portion of
waterfowls which we saw on the Columbia untill we reached tidewater, where
they also abound but do not bear a Similar proportion to the fowls found
in this quarter. we found this bird fat and tolerably flavoured as we
decended the Columbia.
[Lewis, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806. The wind was so high that Comowol did not leave us
untill late this evening. Labuish and Drewyer returned at sunset having
killed one Elk only. they report that there are some scattering male Elk
in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up
the Netul on this side. — Bratton is much wose today, he complains of
a violent pain in the small of his back and is unable in consequence to
set up. we gave him one of our flanel shirts, applyed a bandage of flannel
to the part and bathed and rubed it well with some vollatile linniment
which I prepared with sperits of wine, camphor, castile soap and a little
laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening. — the large blue and
brown herons, or Crams as they are usually called in the U States are
found on this river below tidewater. they are the same with those of the U
States. the fishing hawk with the crown of the head White and back of a
mealy white, and the blue crested or King fisher are found on every part
of the Columbia and it's waters and are the same with those of the U
States. the fishing hawk is not abundant particularly in the mountains.
there are four speceis of larus or gull on this coast and river, 1st a
small speceis about the size of a pigeon; white except some black spots
about the head and a little brown on the but of the wings, 2nd a speceis
somewhat larger of a light brown colour with a whitish or mealy coloured
back. 3rd the large grey gull, or white larus with a greyish brown back
and a light grey belley and breast, about the size of a well grown pullet
or reather larger. the wings are remarkably long in proportion to the size
of the body and it's under chap towards the extremity is more gibbous and
protuberant than in either of the other speceis. 4th a white gull about
the size of the second with a remarkable beak; adjoining the head and at
the base of the uper Chap there is an elivated orning of the same
substance with the beak which forms the nostrils; it is some what in this
forma the feet are webbed and the legs and feet of a yellow colour. the
form of the wings body &c are much that of the second species. the
large grey gull is found on the river as high as the entrance of the
Kooskooske and in common with the other speceis on the coast; the others
appear to be confined to tidewater; and the fourth speceis not so common
as either of the others. the cormorant is a large black duck which feeds
on fish; I perceive no difference between it and those found in the
Potomac and other rivers on the Atlantic Coast. tho I do not recollect
seeing those on the atlantic so high up the rivers as those are found
here. we first met with them on the Kooskooske at the entrance of
Chopunnish river. they increased in quantity as we decended, and formed
much the greatest portion of the waterfowl which we saw on the Columbia
untill we reached tidewater where they also abound but do not bear a
similar proportion to the other fowls found in this quarter.
There are two speceis of loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part
of the rivers of this country. they are the same size colours and form
with those of the Atlantic coast. the second speceis we first met with at
the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird is not
more than half the size of the speckled loon, it's neck is long, slender
and white in front. the Colour of the body and back of the neck and head
are of a dun or ash colour, the breast and belley are white. the beak is
like that of the speckled loon and like them it cannot fly but flutters
along on the top of the warter or dives for security when pursued.
[Clark, March 7, 1806]
Friday March 7th 1806 The wind was So high that Comowol did not leave us
untill late this evening. Drewyer & Labiesh returned at Sunset haveing
killed one Elk only. they report that there are Some Scattering mail Elk
in the neighbourhood of the place they killed this one or about 5 miles up
the Netul river on the west Side-. Bratten is much worst to day he
complains of a violent pain in the Small of his back, and is unable in
consequence of it to Set up. we gave him one of our flanel Shirts. I
applied a bandage of flanel to the part and rubed it well with Some
volatile linniment which was prepared with Sperits of wine, camphire,
Sastile Soap, and a little laudinum. he felt himself better in the evening
at which time I repeated the linnement and bathed his feet to restore
circulation which he complaind of in that part.
There are two Species of Loons. 1st the Speckled loon found on every part
of the rivers of this quarter, they are the Same Size Colour and form with
those of the Ohio, and atlantic coasts. the 2d Species we first met with
at the great falls of the Columbia and from thence down. this bird is not
more than half the Size of the Speckled loon, it's neck is long, Slender
and white in front. the colour of the body and back of the neck and head
are of a dun or ash Colour, the breast and belly are white. the back is
like that of the Speckled loon, and like them it cannot fly, but flutters
along on the top of the water or Dives for Security when pursued.
John Shields Reubin Fields & Robert frasure measured 2 trees of the
fur kind one 37 feet around, appears sound, has but fiew limbs for 200
feet it is East of the Netul abt 280 feet high.
[Lewis, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806. Bratton is much better today, his back gives him
but little pain. Collins returned early in the morning and informed us
that he had killed three Elk about five miles distant on the edge of the
prarie in Point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and could
not get it, the other two he butcherd and secured. he saw two large herds
of Elk in that quarter. we sent Drewyer and Joseph Fields to hunt those
Elk. a party were also sent with Labuish for the flesh of the Elk which
Drewyer and himself had killed up the netul, they returned with it in the
evening. Shields, R. Fields and Frazier returned this evening from the
Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull having seen no Elk. McNeal and Goodrich
having recovered from the Louis veneri I directed them to desist from the
uce of mercury. The white brant is very common in this country
particularly below tidewater where they remain in vast quantities during
the winter. they feed like the swan gees &c on the grass roots and
seeds which they find in the marshes. this bird is about the size of the
brown brant or a third less than the common Canadian or wild goose. the
head is proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak also thicker
shorter and of much the same form, being of a yellowish white colour
except the edges of the chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the
legs and feet are of the same form of the goose and are of a redish white
or pale flesh colour. the tail is composed of sixteen feathers of equal
length as those of the geese and brown brant are and bears about the same
proportion in point of length. the eye is of a dark colour and nothing
remarkable as to size. the wings are rether longer compared with those of
the goose but not as much so as in the brown or pided brant. the colour of
the plumage of this bird is unifomly a pure white except the large
feathers of the extremities of the wings which are black. the large
feathers of the 1st joint of the wing next to the body are white. the note
of this bird differs essentially from that of the goose; it more resembles
that of the brown brant but is somewhat different. it is like the note of
young domestic goose which has not perfectly attained it's full note. the
flesh of this bird is exceedingly fine, preferable to either the goose or
pided brant. — The Brown or pided brant are much the same size and
form of the white only that their wings are considerably longer and more
pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body neck head and tail is
much the colour of the canadian goose but reather darker in consequence of
som dark brown feathers which are distributed and irregularly scattered
throughout. they have not the white on the neck and sides of the head as
the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body. like the goose there
are some white feathers on the rump at the joining of the tail. the beak
is dark and the legs and feet also dark with a greenish cast; the breast
and belley are of a lighter colour than the back and is also irregularly
intermixed with dark brown and black feathers which give it a pided
appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark and in my estimation reather
better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird are the same nearly
with the goose and white brant with this difference that they do not
remain in this climate in such numbers during the winter as the others,
and that it sets out earlier in the fall season on it's return to the
south and arrives later in the spring than the goose. I see no difference
between this bird and that called simply the brant, common to the lakes
the Ohio and Mississippi &c. The small goose of this country is
reather less than the brant; it's head and neck like the brant are reather
larger than that of the goose in proportion; their beak is also thicker
and shorter. their notes are more like those of our tame gees; in all
other rispects they are the same with the large goose with which, they so
frequently ascociate that it was some time after I first observed this
goose before I could determine whether it was a distinct speceis or not. I
have now no hesitation in declaring them a distinct speceis. the large
goose is the same of that common on the Atlantic coast, and known by the
appellation of the wild, or Canadian goose.
[Clark, March 8, 1806]
Saturday March 8th 1806 Bratten is much better this morning, his back givs
him but little pain. Collins returned early in the morning, and informed
us that he had killed three Elk about five miles distance on the edge of
the prarie in point Adams. one of them fell in a deep pond of water and he
could not git to it. the other two he butchered and Saved. he saw two
large herds of Elk in that quarter. we Sent Drewyer & Jos. Field to
hunt these Elk, a party was also Sent with Labiesh for the flesh of the
Elk which Drewyer and himself had killd up the Netul, they returned with
it in the evening. Shields, R. Field and Frasure returned this evening
from the Kilhawanackkle unsuccessfull haveing Seen no Elk. McNeal and
Goodrich haveing recovered from the Louis veneri I detected them to desist
from takeing the murcury or useing in future. willard is yet complaining
and is low Spirited.
The White Brant is very common in this country particularly below tide
water where they remain in vast quantities dureing the winter. they feed
like the Swan Goose &c. on the grass and roots & Seeds which they
find in the marshes this bird is a little larger than the brown brant and
a fourth less than the common wild or Canadian goose. the head is
proportionably with the goose reather large; the beak thicker Shorter and
of the Same form, being of a yellowish white colour except the edges of
the Chaps, which are frequently of a dark brown. the legs and feet are of
the Same form of the goose and are of a redish white or pail flesh colour.
the tail is composed of Sixteen feathers of equal length as those of the
geese and brown brant are, and bears about the Same perpotion in point of
length. the Eye is of a dark colour and nothing remarkable as to Size. the
wings are reather longer compared with those of the goose, but not as much
So as is the brown or pieded brant. the colour of the plumage of this bird
is uniformly a pure white except the large feathers of the extremities of
the wings which are black. The large feathers of the 1st joint of the wing
next to the body are white. the note of this bird differs essentially from
that of the goose; it more resembles that of the brown brant but is
Somewhat different. it is like the note of a young domestic goose which
has not perfectly attained its full note. the flesh of this bird is
exceedingly fine, prefferable to either the goose or pieded brant. the
neck is Shorter in prpotion than that of the goose.
The Brown or pieded brant are nearly the Size and much the Same form of
the white brante only that their wings are considerably longer and more
pointed. the plumage of the upper part of the body, neck, head and tail is
much the Colour of the Common or Canadian Goose but rather darker in
consequence of Some dark brown feathers which are distributed and
irregularly scattered throughout. they have not the white on the neck and
Sides of the head as the goose has nor is the neck darker than the body.
like the goose there are Some white feathers on the rump at the junction
of the tail. the beak, legs and feet are dark, with a greenish cast; the
breast and belly are of a lighter colour than the back and is also
intermixed, irregularly, with dark brown and black feathers which gives it
a pieded appearance. the flesh of this bird is dark, and in my estimation
reather better than that of the goose. the habits of this bird is nearly
the same with the goose and white brant, with this difference that they do
not remain in this Climate in Such numbers dureing the winter as the
others. I See no difference between this bird and that Called Simpilly the
Brant Common to the Lakes and frequently Seen on the Ohio and Mississippi
in large flocks &c.
The Small Goose of this country is reather less than the Brant; it's head
and neck like the brant are reather larger than that of the goose in
purpotion; their beak is also thicker and Shorter. their notes are more
like those of our taim geese, in all other respect they are the Same with
the large Goose with which, they So frequently ascoiete, that it was Some
time after I first observed this goose before I could whether it was a
distinct Speces or not. I have no hesitation now in declareing them a
distinct Species. the large Goose is the Same as that common to the Ohio,
and atlantic coast, and known by the appellation of the wild, or Canadian
Goose.
[Lewis, March 9, 1806]
Sunday March 9th 1806. This morning the men set out at daylight to go in
gust of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned with it at eleven
A.M. Bratton complains of his back being very painfull to him today; I
conceive this pain to be something of the rheumatism. we still apply the
linniment and flannel; in the evening he was much better. Drewyer and
Joseph Fields returned not having found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and the
fishing party not yet arrived, suppose they are detained by the winds.
visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a dog some fish and a Sea Otter skin
for sale. we suffered them to remain all night. we set Shields at work to
make some sacks of Elk skin to contain various articles. The large Swan is
precisely the same common to the Atlantic States. the small swan differs
only from the larger one in size and it's note. it is about one fourth
less and it's note entirely different. the latter cannot be justly
immetated by the sound of letters nor do I know any sounds with which a
comparison would be pertinent. it begins with a kind of whistleing sound
and terminates in a round full note which is reather louder than the
whistleing, or former part; this note is as loud as that of the large
swan. from the peculiar whistleing of the note of this bird I have called
it the whistleing swan it's habits colour and contour appear to be
precisely those of the large Swan. we first saw them below the great
narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw nation. They are very
abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all winter. in
number they are fully five for one of the large speceis. The duckinmallard
or common large duck wich resembles the domestic duck are the same here
with those of the U Sts. they are abundant and are found on every part of
the river below the mountains. they remain here all winter but I beleive
they do not continue during winter far above tidewater. a beautifull duck
and one of the most delicious in the world is found in considerable
quantities in this neighbourhood during the Autumn and winter. this is the
same with that known in the Delliware, Susquehannah, and Potomac by the
name of the Canvisback and in James River by that of shell-Drake; in the
latter river; however I am informed that they have latterly almost
entirely disappeared. to the epicure of those parts of the union where
this duck abounds nothing need be added in praise of the exqusite flavor
of this duck. I have frequently eaten of them in several parts of the
Union and I think those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is
never found above tide-water; we did not meet with them untill after we
reached the marshey Islands; and I beleive that they have already left
this neighbourhood, but whether they have gone northwardly or Southwardly
I am unable to determin; nor do I know in what part of the Continent they
raise their young. — The read headed fishing duck is common to every
part of the river and are found as well in the Rocky Mountains as
elsewhere; in short this was the only duck we saw on the waters of the
Columbia within the mountains. they feed principally on crawfish and are
the same in every rispect as those on the rivers in the mountains of the
Atlantic Ocean.
[Clark, March 9, 1806]
Sunday Mach 9th 1806 This morning the men Set out at day light to go in
quest of the Elk which Collins had killed, they returned at 11 A.M.
Bratten complains of his backs being very painfull to him to day. we Still
apply the linnement & flannel; in the evening he was much better. Jos.
Field & Drewyer returned not haveing found any Elk. Sergt. Pryor and
the fishing party not yet returned, Suppose they are detained by the
winds. we are visited by 3 Clatsop men who brought a Dog, Some fish and a
Sea otter Skin for Sale. we Suffered them to remain all night. we Set
Shields at work to make Some Sacks of Elk Skin to contain my papers, and
various articles which we wish kept Dry.
The large Swan is precisely the Same Common to the Missouri, Mississippi
and the Atlantic States &c. The Small Swan differ only from the large
one in Size and it's note. it is about 1/4th less, and its notes entirely
different. the latter cannot be justly immetated by the Sound of letters
nor do I know any Sound with which a comparison would be perti-nent. it
begins with a kind of whistling Sound and terminates in a round full note
which is reather louder than the whistling, or former part; this note is
as loud as that of the large Swan. from the peculiar whistling of the note
of this bird I have Called it the Whistleing Swan. it's habits colour and
contour appear to be precisely those of the large swan. we first saw them
below the great narrows of the Columbia near the Chilluckkittequaw Nation.
they are very abundant in this neighbourhood and have remained with us all
winter. in number they are fully five for one of the large Species of the
Swan's.
The Duckinmallard are the Same here with those of the U, States. they are
abundant and are found on every part of the river below the mountains.
they remain here all winter, but I believe they do not remain all winter
above tide water. — a butifull Duck and one of the most delicious in
the world is found in Considerable quantities in this neighbourhood
dureing the Autumn and winter. this is the Same as that known in the
Dilliwar, Susquehannah and Potomac by the name of the Canvisback and James
River by that of Shell-Drake; in the latter river I am informed that they
have latterly almost entirely disapeared. the epicures of those parts of
the Union where those Ducks abound nothing need be added in prais of the
exquisit flavor of this duck. I have eaten of them in Several parts of the
Union and I think those of the Columbia equally as delicious. this duck is
never found above tide water; we did not meat with them untill after we
reached the marshey Islands; and I believe that they have already left
this neighbourhood; but whether they are gorn Northerly or Southerly, I am
unable to deturmine; nor do I know in what part of the Country they rais
their young
The red headed fishing duck is common to every part of the river and are
found as well in the Rocky Mountains as elsewhere; in short this was the
only duck we Saw within the Mountain on the Columbian waters. they feed
principally on Crawfish; and are the Same in every respects as those on
the Ohio and rivers in the mountains of the atlantic Ocian.
The black and white Duck are Small about the Size of the blue-winged teal,
or reather larger. the mail is butifully varigated with black and white.
the white occupies the Side of the head, breast and back. black the tail,
large feathers of the wing, two tufts of feathers which cover the upper
part of the wings when folded, the neck and head. the female is darker or
has much less white about her. I take this to be the Same Species of duck
common to the ohio, as also the atlantic Coast, and Sometimes called the
butter box. the back is wide and Short, and as well as the legs of a dark
Colour. the flesh of this duck is verry well flavored I think Superior to
the Duckinmallard.
[Lewis, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806. About 1 P.M. it became fair and we sent out two
parties of hunters on this side of the Netul the one below and the other
above. we also directed a party to set out early in the morning and pass
the bay and hunt beyond the Kilhowanackkle. from the last we have
considerable hope as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it
blew hard all day. in the evening the Indians departed. The hunters who
were over the Netull the other day informed us that they measured a pine
tree, (or fir No 1) which at the hight of a man's breast was 42 feet in
the girth about three feet higher, or as high as a tall man could reach,
it was 40 feet in the girth which was about the circumpherence for at
least 200 feet without a limb, and that it was very lofty above the
commencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other trees of this
speceis of fir and their account of this tree, I think it may be safely
estimated at 300 feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly sound.
The black and white duck are small abut the size of the blue-winged teal,
or reather larger. the male is beautifully variagated with black and
white. the white occupys the sides of the head, breast and back, black,
the tail feathers of the wings two tufts of feathers which cover the upper
part of the wings when foalded, the neck and head. the female is darker or
has much less white about her. I take this to be the same speceis of duck
common to the Atlantic coast, and frequently called the butterbox. the
beak is wide and short, and as well as the legs, of a dark colour. the
flesh of this duck is very well flavored. the brown duck is much in form
like the duckinmallard, tho not much more than half it's size. the colour
is an uniform mixture of yellowish and dark brown. there is nothing
remarkable in the appearance of this duck it generally resorts the same
kind of grassey marshes with the duckinmallard and feeds in a similar
manner, on grass seed, and roots. both these ducks are common to the river
for some distance above tide water as well as below. The black duck is
about the size of the bluewinged teal. their colour is a duskey black the
breast and belley somewhat lighter than the other parts, or a dark brown.
the legs stand longitudinally with the body, and the bird when on shore
stands of cours very erect. the legs and feet are of a dark brown, the
toes are four on each foot, a short one at the heel and three long toes in
front, which are unconnected with a web. the webs are attatched to each
sides of the several joints of the toe, and divided by deep sinuses at
each joint. the web assuming in the intermediate part an eliptical figure.
the beak is about two inches long, streight, flated on the sides, and
tapering to a sharp point. the upper chap somewhat longest, and bears on
it's base at the joining of the head, a little conic protuberance of a
cartelagenous substace, being redish brown at the point. the beak is of an
ivory white colour. the eye dark. these ducks usually associate in large
flocks, and are very noisey; their note being a sharp shrill whistle. they
are usually fat and agreeably flavored; and feed principally on moss, and
other vegitable productions of the water. we did not meet with them untill
we reached tide-water, but I beleive them not exclusively confined to that
district at all seasons, as I have noticed the same duck on many parts of
the Rivers Ohio and Mississippi. the gizzard and liver are also remarkably
large in this fowl. the divers are the same with those of the Atlantic
States. the smaller species has some white feathers about the rump with no
perceptable tail and is very active and cluck in it's motion; the body is
of a redish brown. the beak sharp and somewhat curved like that of the
pheasant. the toes are not connected but webed like those discribed of the
black duck. the larger speceis are about the size of the teal and can flye
a short distance which the small one scarcely ever attapts. they have a
short tail. their colour is also an uniform brickredish brown, the beak is
streight and pointed. the feet are of the same form of the other speceis
and the legs are remarkably thin and flat one edge being in front. the
food of both speceis is fish, and the flesh unfit for uce. the bluewinged
teal are a very excellent duck, and are the same with those of the
Atlantic coast. — There are some other speceis of ducks which shall be
hereafter discribed as I may hereafter have an opportunity to examine
them.
[Clark, March 10, 1806]
Monday March 10th 1806 about 1 P.M. it became fair and we Sent out two
parties of hunters on this Side of the Netul, one above and the other
below, we also derected a party to Set out early in the morning and pass
Meriwethers Bay and hunt beyond the Kilhow anak kle. from the last we have
considerable hope, as we have as yet hunted but little in that quarter. it
blew hard all day, in the evening the Indians departed. The Hunters, S. R.
F. & F. who were over the netul the other day informed us that they
measured a 2d tree of the fir Speces (No. i) as high as a man Could reach,
was 39 feet in the girth; it tapered but very little for about 200 feet
without any Considerable limbs, and that it was a very lofty above the
Commmencement of the limbs. from the appearance of other Species of fir,
and their account of this tree, I think it might safely estimated at 300
feet. it had every appearance of being perfectly Sound in every part
The brown Duck is much in form like the Duckinmallard, tho not much more
than half it's Size. the colour is one uniform mixture of yellowish and
dark brown. there is nothing remarkable in the colour of this duck; it
resorts the Same kind of grassy marshes with the Duckinmallard, and feeds
in a Similar manner, on grass, Seeds & roots. both these ducks are
common to the river for Some distance above tide water as well as below.
The black Duck is about the Size of the bluewinged teel. their colour is a
duskey black the breast and belly Somewhat lighter than the other parts,
or a dark brown. the legs Stand longitudianally with the body, and the
Bird when on Shore Stands very erect. the legs and feet are of a dark
brown, the toes are four on each foot, a short one on the heel and three
long toes in front which are unconnected with a web. the web is atached to
each Side of the Several joints of the toes, and devided by deep Sinuses
at each joint. the web assumeing in the intermediate part an elipticle
figure. the beak is about two inches long, Streight, flated on the Sides,
and tapering to a Sharp point. the upper chap Somewhat longest and bears
on its base at the joining of the head, a little conic protuberance of a
cartelagenous Substance, being redish brown. the beak is of a ivery white
colour. the eye dark. these ducks usially associate in large flocks, and
are very noisey; their note being a Sharp shrill whistle. they are usially
fat and tolerably flavoured; and feed on moss and other vegitable
productions of the water. we did not meet with them untill we reached tide
water, I have noticed the Same duck on maney parts of the ohio an
Mississippi. the Gizzard and liver are also remarkably large in this
fowl-. The Divers are the Same with those of the atlantic States. the
Smaller Species has some white feathers about the rump and no perceptable
tail and is very active and quick in its motion; the body is of a redish
brown. the beak sharp and Somewhat curved like that of the Pheasant the
toes are not connected but webd. like those discribed of the black duck.
The large Species are about the Size of the teal &c. the food of both
those Species is fish. and their flesh is unfit for use.
The bluewinged teal are a very excellent duck, and are the Same with those
of the atlantic coast. — There are some other Species of ducks which
Shall be hereafter discribd. as I may hereafter have an oppertunity of
exameneing them.
[Lewis, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806. Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a
small canoe loaded with fish which he had obtained from the Cathlahmah's
for a very small part of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had
prevented his going to the fisery on the opposite side of the river above
the Wackiacums, and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as
early as he would otherwise have been back. — The dogs at the
Cathlahmahs had bitten the trong assunder which confined his canoe and she
had gone a drift. he borrowed a canoe from the Indians in which he has
returned. he found his canoe on the way and secured her, untill we return
the Indians their canoe, when she can be brought back. Sent Sergt. Gass
and a party in surch of a canoe which was reported to have been sunk in a
small creek on the opposite side of the Netul a few miles below us, where
she had been left by Shields R. Fields and Frazier when they were lately
sent out to hunt over the Netul. They returned and reported that they
could not find the canoe she had broken the cord by which she was
attatched, and had been carried off by the tide. Drewyer Joseph Fields and
Frazier set out by light this morning to pass the bay in order to hunt as
they had been directed the last evening. we once more live in clover;
Anchovies fresh Sturgeon and Wappetoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor had also
procured and brought with him. The reptiles of this country are the
rattlesnake garter snake and the common brown Lizzard. The season was so
far advanced when we arrived on this side of the rocky mountains that but
few rattlesnakes were seen I did not remark one particularly myself, nor
do I know whether they are of either of the four speceis found in the
different parts of the United states, or of that species before mentioned
peculiar to the upper parts of the Missouri and it's branches. The garter
snake so called in the United States is very common in this country; they
are found in great numbers on the open and sometimes marshey grounds in
this neighbourhood. they differ not at all from those of the U States. the
black or dark brown lizzard we saw at the rock fort Camp at the
commencement of the woody country below the great narrows and falls of the
Columbia; they are also the same with those of the United States. The
snail is numerous in the woody country on this coast; they are in shape
like those of the United States, but are at least five times their bulk.
There is a speceis of water lizzard of which I saw one only just above the
grand rapids of the Columbia. it is about 9 inches long the body is
reather flat and about the size of a mans finger covered with a soft skin
of a dark brown colour with an uneven surface covered with little pimples
the neck and head are short, the latter terminating in an accute angular
point and flat. the fore feet each four toes, the hinder ones five
unconnected with a web and destitute of tallons. it's tail was reather
longer than the body and in form like that of the Musk-rat, first rising
in an arch higher than the back and decending lower than the body at the
extremity, and flated perpendicularly. the belley and under part of the
neck and head were of a brick red every other part of the colour of the
upper part of the body a dark brown. the mouth was smooth, without teeth.
[Clark, March 11, 1806]
Tuesday March 11th 1806 Early this morning Sergt. Pryor arrived with a
Small Canoe loaded with fish which he had obtained from the Cath-lah-mah's
for a very Small part of the articles he had taken with him. the wind had
prevented his going to the fishery on the opposit Side of the river above
the Waukiecum's, and also as we had suspected, prevented his return as
early as he otherwise would have been back. The dogs of the Cathlahmah's
had bitten the throng assunder which confined his canoe and she had gorn
adrift. he borrowed a Canoe from the Indians in which he has returned. he
found his canoe on the way and Secured her, untill we return the Indians
their Canoe — Sent Sergt. Gass and a party in Serch of one of our
Canoes which was reported to have been lost from a hunting party of
Shields R. Field & Frazier when they were last out on the opposit Side
of the Netul. they returned and reported that they Could not find the
Canoe which had broken the Cord with which it was attached, and was caried
off by the tide. Drewyer Jo. Field & Frazier Set out by light this
morning to pass the bay in order to hunt as they had been directed last
evening. we once more live in Clover; Anchovies fresh Sturgeon and
Wappatoe. the latter Sergt. Pryor had also procured a fiew and brought
with him. The Deer of this Coust differ from the Common Deer, fallow Deer
or Mule Deer as has beformentiond.
The Mule Deer we have never found except in rough Country; they prefer the
Open Grounds and are Seldom found in the wood lands near the river; when
they are met with in the wood lands or river bottoms and pursued, they
imediately run to the hills or open country as the Elk do, the Contrary
happens with the common Deer. there are Several differences between the
mule and common deer as well as in form as in habits. they are fully a
third larger in general, and the male is particularly large; think there
is Somewhat greater disparity of Size between the Male and the female of
this Species than there is between the male and female fallow Deer; I am
Convinced I have Seen a Buck of this Species twice the volume a Buck of
the Common Deer. the Ears are peculiarly large, I measured those of a
large Buck which I found to be eleven inches long and 31/2 in width at the
widest part; they are not so delicately formed, their hair in winter is
thicker longer and of a much darker grey, in Summer the hair is Still
coarser longer and of a paler red, more like that of the Elk; in winter
they also have a Considerable quantity of very fine wool intermixed with
the hair and lying next to the Skin as the Antelope has. the long hair
which grows on the outer Side of the first joint of the hind legs, and
which in the Common Deer do not usially occupy more than 2 inches in them
occupy from 6 to 8; their horns also differ, those in the Common deer
consist of two main beams gradually deminishing as the points proceed from
it, with the mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the
distance of 4 or 6 inches from the head divide themselves into two equal
branches which again either divide into two other equal branches or
terminate in a Smaller, and two equal ones; haveing either 2, 4 or 6
points on a beam; the horn is not so rough about the base as the common
deer, and are invariably of a much darker Colour. the most Strikeing
difference of all, is the white rump and tail. from the root of the tail
as a center there is a circular Spot perfectly white of about 31/2 inches
radius, which occupy a part of the rump and the extremities of buttocks
and joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usially
from 8 to 9 inches long for the first 4 or 5 inches from its upper
extremity is covered with Short white hairs, much Shorter indeed than
those hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further, the hair
is Still white but gradually becoms longer; the tail then termonates in a
tissue of Black hair of about 3 inches long. from this black hair of the
tail they have obtained among the French engages the appelation of the
black tailed Deer, but this I conceive by no means Characteristic of the
Animal as much the larger portion of the tail is white. the Ears and the
tail of this Animale when Compared with those of the Common Deer, So well
Comported with those of the Mule when compared with the Horse, that we
have by way of distinction adapted the appellation of the mule Deer which
I think much more appropriate. on the inner corner of each eye there is a
drane (like the Elk) or large recepticle which Seams to Answer as a drane
to the eye which givs it the appearance of weeping, this in the Common
Deer of the Atlantic States is scercely proceptable but becoms more
Conspicious in the fallow Deer, and Still more So in the Elk; this
recepticle in the Elk is larger than any of the Pecora order with which I
am acquainted.
I have Some reasons to believe that the Calumet Eagle is Sometimes found
on this Side of the Rocky mountains from the information of the Indians in
whose possession I have Seen their plumage. those are the Same with those
of the Missouri, and are the most butifull of all the family of the Eagle
of America it's colours are black and white with which it is butifully
varigated. the feathers of the tail which is so highly prized by the
Indians is composed of twelve broad feathers of equal length those are
white except about two inches at the extremity which is of a jut black.
their wings have each a large circular white Spot in the middle when
extended. the body is variously marked with white and black. the form is
much that of the Common bald Eagle, but they are reather Smaller and much
more fleet. this Eagle is feared by all carnivarous birds, and on his
approach all leave the carcase instantly on which they were feeding. it
breads in the inaccessable parts of the Mountains where it Spends the
Summer, and decends to the plains and low country in the fall and winter
when it is usially Sought and taken by the nativs. two tails of this bird
is esteemed by Mandans, Minnetares, Ricaras, &c. as the full value of
a good horse, or Gun and accoutrements. with the Osage & Kanzas and
those nations enhabiting Countrys where this bird is more rare, the price
is even double of that mentioned. with these feathers the nativs deckerate
the Stems of their Sacred pipes or Calumets; whence the name of Calumet
Eagle, which has Generally obtained among the Engages. The Ricaras have
domesticated this bird in many instances for the purpose of obtaining its
plumage. the nativs in every part of the Continent who can precure those
feathers attach them to their own hair and the mains and tail of their
favorite horses by way of orniment. they also deckerate their own caps or
bonnets with those feathers. The Leather winged bat is found &c.
[Lewis, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806 We sent a party again in surch of the perogue
but they returned unsuccessful) as yesterday. Sent one hunter out on this
side of the Netul, he did not return this evening. I beleive the Callamet
Eagle is sometimes found on this side of the rocky mountains from the
information of the Indians in whose possession I have seen their plumage.
these are the same with those of the Missouri, and are the most beautiful)
of all the family of the Eagles of America. it's colours are black and
white with which it is beautifully variagated. the feathers of the tail
which are so highly prized by the Indians is composed of twelve broad
feathers of equal length. these are white except about 2 inches at the
extremity which is of a jut black. there wings have each a large circular
white spot in the middle when extended. the body is variously marked with
white and black. the form is much that of the common bald Eagle, but they
are reather smaller and much more fleet. this eagle is feared by all
carnivorous birds, and on his approach all leave the carcase instantly on
which they were feeding. it breads in the inaccessable parts of the
mountains where it spends the summer, and decends to the plains and low
country in the fall and winter when it is usually sought and taken by the
natives. two tails of this bird is esteemed by the Mandans Minetares
Ricares, &c as the full value of a good horse, or gun and
accoutrements. with the Great and little Osages and those nations
inhabiting countries where this bird is more rare the price is even double
of that mentioned. with these feathers the natives decorate the stems of
their sacred pipes or callamets; whence the name, of Callamet Eagle, which
has generally obtained among the Engages. the Ricares have domesticated
this bird in many instancies for the purpose of obtaining it's plumage.
the natives in every part of the con tinent who can procure these feathers
attatch them to their own hair and the mains and tails of their favorite
horses by way of ornament. they also decorate their war caps or bonnets
with those feathers. — The leather winged batt common to the United
States is also found on this side of the Rocky mountains. — Beside the
fish of this coast and river already mentioned we have met with the
following speceis viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder, Salmon, red
charr, two speceis of Salmon trout, mountain or speckled trout, and a
speceis similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri within the
mountains, called in the Eastern states, bottle-nose. I have no doubt but
there are many other speceis of fish, which also exist in this quarter at
different seasons of the year, which we have not had an oportunity of
seeing. the shell fish are the Clam, perrewinkle, common mussle, cockle,
and a speceis with a circular flat shell. The Whale is sometimes pursued
harpooned and taken by the Indians of this coast; tho I beleive it is much
more frequently killed by runing fowl on the rocks of the coast in violent
storms and thrown on shore by the wind and tide. in either case the
Indians preseve and eat the blubber and oil as has been before mentioned.
the whalebone they also carefully preserve for sale. — Our party are
now furnished with 358 pair of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of
dressed leather.
[Clark, March 12, 1806]
Wednesday March 12th 1806 We Sent a party again in Serch of the Canoe but
they returned unsucksessfull as yesterday Sent one hunter out on this Side
of the Netul he did not return this evening. Our party are now furnished
with 358 par of Mockersons exclusive of a good portion of Dressed leather,
they are also previded with Shirts Overalls Capoes of dressed Elk Skins
for the homeward journey.
Besides the fish of this Coast and river already mentioned we have met
with the following Species. viz. the Whale, Porpus, Skaite, flounder,
Salmon, red-carr, two Specis of Salmon trout, mountain or Speckled trout,
and a Speceis Similar to one of those noticed on the Missouri within the
mountains, called in the Eastern States, bottle nose. I have no doubt but
there are many other Species of fish which also exist in this quarter at
different Seasons of the year, which we have not had an oppertunity of
seeing. the Shell fish are the Clam, perriwinkle, common Muscle, cockle,
and a Species with a circular flat Shell.
The Whale is Sometimes pursued harpooned and taken by the Indians of this
Coast; tho I believe it is much more frequently killed by running on the
rocks of the Coast to S. S. W. in violent Storms, and thrown on different
parts of the Coast by the winds and tide-. in either case the Indians
preserve and eat the blubber and Oil as has been before mentioned. the
whale bone they also carefully preserve for Sale.
The Reptiles of this Country are the rattle snake, garter Snake a common
brown Lizzard. The Season was so far advanced on this side of the Rocky
Mountains that but fiew rattle Snakes were Seen, I did not remark one
particularly my Self, nor do I know if they are of either of the four
Species found in different parts of the United States, or of that Species
before observed only on the upper parts of the Missouri & its
branches.
The Garter Snake So Called in the U States is very common in this country,
they are found in great numbers on the open and Sometimes marshy grounds
in this neighbourhood. they differ not at all from those of the United
States. the Black or Dark brown Lizzard we Saw at the long narrows or
Commencement of the woody country on the Columbia; they are also the Same
with those of the U, States. The Snail is noumerous in the woodey Country
on this Coast, they are in Shape like those of the U, States, but are at
least five times their bulk. there is a Specis of water Lizzard of which I
only Saw one just above the grand rapid of the Columbia. it is about 9
inches long the body is reather flat and about the Size of a mans finger,
covered with a Soft Skin of dark brown Colour with an uneaven sufice
covered with little pimples, the neck and head are Short, the latter
termonateing in an accute angular point and flat. the fore feet each have
four toes, the hinder ones five unconnected with a web and destitute of
tallons. it's tail was reather longer than the body, and in form like that
of the muskrat, first riseing in an arch higher than the back, and
decending lower than the body at the extremety, and flated
perpindicularly. the belly and under part of the neck and head were of a
Brick red every other part of the colour of the upper part of the body are
dark brown. the mouth was Smooth without teeth.
The horns of Some of the Elk have not yet fallen off and those of others
have Grown to the length of Six inches. the latter are in the best order,
from which it would Seem that the pore Elk retain their horns longer.
[Lewis, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806. This morning Drewyer Jos Feilds and Frazier
returned; they had killed two Elk and two deer. visited by two Cathlahmahs
who left us in the evening. we sent Drewyer down to the Clatsop village to
purchase a couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt. Pryor and a party
made another surch for the lost peroge but was unsuccessfull; while
engaged in surching for the perogue Collins one of his party killed two
Elk near the Netul below us. we sent Sergt. Ordway and a party for the
flesh of one of the Elk beyond the bay with which they returned in the
evening. the other Elk and two deer were at some distance. R. Fields and
Thompson who set out yesterday morning on a hunting excurtion towards
point Adams have not yet returned. The horns of some of the Elk have not
yet fallen off, and those of others have shotten out to the length of six
inches. the latter are in the best order, from which it would seem that
the poor Elk retain their horns longest.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water is
brackish. the Indians sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of this
fish when they can procure it; to me the flavor is disagreeable. the
Skaite is also common to the salt water, we have seen several of them that
had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide. The flounder is
also an inhabitant of the salt water, we have seen them also on the beach
where they had been left by the tide. the Indians eat the latter and
esteem it very fine. these several speceis are the same with those of the
Atlantic coast. the common Salmon and red Charr are the inhabitants of
both the sea and rivers. the former is usually largest and weighs from 5
to 15 lbs. it is this speceis that extends itself into all the rivers and
little creeks on this side of the Continent, and to which the natives are
so much indebted for their subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2
to 3 feet long and proportionably broad. it is covered with imbricated
scales of a moderate size and is variegated with irregular black spots on
it's sides and gills. the eye is large and the iris of a silvery colour
the pupil black. the rostrum or nose extends beyond the under jaw, and
both the upper and lower jaws are armed with a single series of long teeth
which are subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where
they are also more closely arranged. they have some sharp teeth of smaller
size and same shape placed on the tongue which is thick and fleshey. the
fins of the back are two; the first is plaised nearer the head than the
ventral fins and has ____ rays, the second is placed far back near the
tail is small and has no rays. the flesh of this fish is when in order of
a deep flesh coloured red and every shade from that to an orrange yellow,
and when very meager almost white. the roes of this fish are much esteemed
by the natives who dry them in the sun and preserve them for a great
length of time. they are about the size of a small pea nearly transparent
and of a redish yellow colour. they resemble very much at a little
distance the common currants of our gardens but are more yellow. this fish
is sometimes red along the sides and belley near the gills particularly
the male. The red Charr are reather broader in proportion to their length
than the common salmon, the skales are also imbricated but reather large.
the nostrum exceeds the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither as large
nor so numerous as those of the salmon. some of them are almost entirely
red on the belley and sides; others are much more white than the salmon
and none of them are variagated with the dark spots which make the body of
the other. their flesh roes and every other particular with rispect to
their form is that of the Salmon. this fish we did not see untill we
decended below the grat falls of the Columbia; but whether they are
exclusively confined to this portion of the river or not at all seasons, I
am unable to determine.
[Clark, March 13, 1806]
Thursday March 13th 1806. This morning Drewyer Jos. Fields and Frazer
returned; they had killed two Elk and two deer. Visited by two
Cath-lah-mars who left us in the evening. we Sent Drewyer down to the
Clatsop Village to purchase a couple of their canoes if possible. Sergt.
Pryor and a party made another Serch for the lost Canoe but was
unsucksessfull; while engaged in Serching for the Canoe, Collins one of
his party killed two Elk near the Netul below us. we Sent Sergt. Ordway
and a party for the flesh of one of the Elk beyond the Bay with which they
returned in the evening; the other Elk and 2 Deer were at Some distance — R.
Field and Thompson who Set out on a hunting excursion yesterday morning
towards point Adams have not yet returned. took equal altitudes to day
this being the only fair day for Sometime past.
The Porpus is common on this coast and as far up the river as the water is
brackish. the Indians Sometimes gig them and always eat the flesh of this
fish when they Can precure it; to me the flavour is disagreeable. the
Skaite is also common to the Salt water, I have Seen Several of them that
had perished and were thrown out on the beach by the tide. The flounder is
also an enhabitent of the Salt water. we have Seen them also on the beach
where they had been left by the tide. the nativs eate the latter and
esteem it very fine. these Several Species are the Same of those of the
atlantic Coasts. The Common Salmon and red charr are the inhabitents of
both the Sea and river. the former is usially largest and weighs from 5 to
15 lbs. it is this Species that extends itself into all the rivers and
little creek on this Side of the Continent, and to which the nativs are So
much indebted for their Subsistence. the body of this fish is from 21/2 to
3 feet long and perpotionably broad. it is covered with imbricated scales
of a moderate Size and is varigated with errigular black Spots on its Side
and gills. the eye is large and the iris of a Silvery colour the pupil
black. the rostrum or nose extend beyond the under jaws, and both the
upper and the lower jaw are armed with a Single Series of long teeth which
are Subulate and infleted near the extremities of the jaws where they are
more closely arranged. they have Some Sharp teeth of Smaller Size and Same
Shape on the tongue which is thick and fleshey. the fins of the back are
two; the first is placed nearer the head than the Venteral fins and has
____ rays, the Second is placed far back near the tail is small and has no
rays. The flesh of this fish when in order of a deep flesh coloured red
and every Shade from that to an orrange yellow, and when very meager
almost white. the Roe of this fish are much esteemed by the nativs, who
dry them in the Sun and preserve them for a great length of time. they are
about the Size of a Small pea nearly transparrent and of a redish yellow
colour. they resemble very much at a little distance the Common Current of
our gardens but are more yellow. this fish is Sometimes red along the
Sides and belly near the gills; particularly the male of this Species.
The Red Charr are reather broader in proportion to their length than the
Common Salmon, the Skales are also embricated but reather large. the
nostrum exceeds the lower jaw more and the teeth are neither So noumerous
or large as those of the Salmon. Some of them are almost entirely red on
the belly and Sides; others are much more white than the Salmon, and none
of them are varigated with the dark Spots which mark the body of the
other. their flesh roe and every other particular with respect to their is
that of the Salmon. this fish we did not See untill we had decended below
the Great falls of the Columbia; but whether they are exclusively confined
to this portion of the river or not at all Seasons, I am unable to
determine.
The Salmon Trout are Seldom more than two feet in length, they are narrow
in purportion to their length, at least much more So than the Salmon &
red charr. their jaws are nearly of the Same length, and are furnished
with a Single Series of Subulate Streight teeth, not so long or so large
as those of the Salmon, the mouth is wide, and the tongue is also
furnished with Some teeth. the fins are placed much like those of the
Salmon. at the Great Falls are met with this fish of a Silvery white
colour on the belly and Sides, and a blueish light brown on the back and
head. in this neighbourhood we have met with another Species which does
not differ from the other in any particular except in point of Colour.
this last is of a dark colour on the back, and its Sides and belley are
yellow with transverse Stripes of dark brown. Sometimes a little red is
intermixed with these Colours on the belly and Sides towards the head. the
flesh & roe is like those described of the Salmon. the white Species
which we found below the falls were in excellent order when the Salmon
were entirely out of Season and not fit for use. The Species which we
found here early in november on our arival in this quarter had declined
considerably, reather more so than the Red charr with which we found them
asociated in the little riverlets and creeks. I think it may be Safely
asserted that the Red Charr and both Species of the Salmon trout remain in
Season longer in the fall of the year than the common Salmon; but I have
my doubt whether of the Species of the Salmon trout ever pass the Great
falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell us that the Salmon begin to run
early in the next month; it will be unfortunate for us if they do not, for
they must form our principal dependance for food in assending the Columbia
above the Falls and it's S. E. branch Lewis's river to the Mountains.
The Speckled or Mountain Trout are found in the waters of the Columbia
within the Rocky mountains. they are the Same of those found in the upper
part of the Missouri, but are not So abundent in the Columbian Waters as
in that river. The bottle nose is also found on the waters of the Columbia
within the mountains.
[Lewis, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806. This morning we sent a party after the two Elk
which Collins killed last evening, they returned with them about noon.
Collins, Jos. Fends and Shannon went in quest of the flock of Elk of which
Collins had killed those two. this evening we heared upwards of twenty
shot, and expect that they have fallen in with and killed a number of
them. Reubin Fields and Thompson returned this evening unsuccessfull
having killed one brant only. late in the evening Drewyer arrived with a
party of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent canoe some hats and roots
for sale. the hats and roots we purchased, but could not obtain the canoe
without giving more than our stock of merchandize would lisence us. I
offered him my laced uniform coat but he would not exchange. The Salmon
Trout are seldom more than two feet in length they are narrow in
proportion to their length, at least much more so than the Salmon or red
charr. the jaws are nearly of the same length, and are furnished with a
single series of small subulate streight teeth, not so long or as large as
those of the Salmon. the mouth is wide, and the tongue is also furnished
with some teeth. the fins are placed much like those of the salmon. at the
great falls we met with this fish of a silvery white colour on the belley
and sides, and a bluish light brown on the back and head. in this
neighbourhood we have met with another speceis which dose not differ from
the other in any particular except in point of colour. this last is of a
dark colour on the back, and it's sides and belley are yellow with
transverse stripes of dark brown. sometimes a little red is intermixed
with these colours on the belley and sides towards the head. the eye,
flesh, and roes are like those discribed of the Salmon. the white speceis
which we found below the falls was in excellent order when the salmon were
entirely out of season and not fit for uce. the speceis which we found
here on our arrival early in November had declined considerably, reather
more so inded than the red Charr with which we found them ascociated in
the little rivulets and creeks. I think it may be safely asserted that the
red Charr and both speceis of the salmon trout remain in season longer in
the fall of the year than the common Salmon; but I have my doubts whether
either of them ever pass the great falls of the Columbia. The Indians tell
us that the Salmon begin to run early in the next month; it will be
unfortunate for us if they do not, for they must form our principal
dependence for food in ascending the Columbia, above the falls and it's S.
E. branch to the mountains. The mountain or speckled trout are found in
the waters of the Columbia within the mountains. they are the same of
those found in the upper part of the Missouri, but are not so abundant in
the Columbia as on that river. we never saw this fish below the mountains
but from the transparency and coldness of the Kooskooske I should not
doubt it's existing in that stream as low as it's junction with the S E.
branch of the Columbia. — The bottle nose is the same with that before
mentioned on the Missouri and is found exclusively within the mountains.
[Clark, March 14, 1806]
Friday March 14th 1806 This morning we dispatched a party after two Elk
which Collins killed last evening, they returned with them about noon.
Jos. Field, Collins, Go. Shannon & Labiesh went in quest of the Gang
of Elk out of which Collins had killed the 2 yesterday. this evening we
herd upwards of twenty Shot and expect they have fallen in with and killed
Several of them. Reuben Field and Thompson returned this evening
unsuksessfull haveing killed only one Brant. late in the evening Geo.
Drewyer arrived with a party of the Clatsops who brought an indifferent
Canoe, three hats and Some roots for Sale we could not purchase the Canoe
without giveing more than our Stock of merchandize would lisence us. Capt
Lewis offered his laced uniform Coat for a verry indiferent Canoe,
agreeable to their usial way of tradeing his price was double. we are
informed by the Clatsops that they have latterly Seen an Indian from the
Quin-na-chart Nation who reside Six days march to the N. W and that four
vessles were there and the owners Mr. Haley, Moore, Callamon &
Swipeton were tradeing with that noumerous nation, whale bone Oile and
Skins of various discription.
[Lewis, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806. This morning at 11 OCk. the hunters arrived,
having killed four Elk only. Labuish it seems was the only hunter who fell
in with the Elk and having by some accedent lost the fore sight of his gun
shot a great number of times but killed only the number mentioned. as the
elk were scattered we sent two parties for them, they returned in the
evening with four skins and the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them
having become putrid from the liver and pluck having been carelessly left
in the animal all night. we were visited this afternoon by Delashshelwilt
a Chinnook Chief his wife and six women of his nation which the old baud
his wife had brought for market. this was the same party that had
communicated the venerial to so many of our party in November last, and of
which they have finally recovered. I therefore gave the men a particular
charge with rispect to them which they promised me to observe. late this
evening we were also visited by Catel a Clatsop man and his family. he
brought a canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for sale neither of which we
purchased this evening. The Clatsops who had brought a canoe for sale last
evening left us early this morning. Bratton still sick.
There is a third speceis of brant in the neighbourhood of this place which
is about the size and much the form of the pided brant. they weigh about
81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor so pointed as those of the common
pided brant. the following is a likeness of it's head and beak. a little
distance around the base of the beak is white and is suddonly succeeded by
a narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the neck, head, back, wings,
and tail all except the tips of the feathers are of the bluish brown of
the common wild goose. the breast and belly are white with an irregular
mixture of black feathers which give that part a pided appearance. from
the legs back underneath the tail, and arond the junction of the same with
the body above, the feathers are white. the tail is composed of 18
feathers; the longest of which are in the center and measure 6 Inches with
the barrel of the quill; those sides of the tail are something shorter and
bend with their extremeties inwards towards the center of the tail. the
extremities of these feathers are white. the beak is of a light flesh
colour. the legs and feet which do not differ in structure from those of
the goose or brant of the other speceis, are of an orrange yellow colour.
the eye is small; the iris is a dark yellowish brown, and pupil black. the
note of this brant is much that of the common pided brant from which in
fact they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they certainly
are a distinct speis of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as good as that
of the common pided brant. they not remain here during the winter in such
numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now returned in considerable
quantities. first saw them below tide-water.
[Clark, March 15, 1806]
Saturday March 15th 1806 This morning at 11 oClock the hunters arived,
haveing Killed four Elk only. Labiesh it Seams was the only Hunter who
fell in with the Elk and haveing by some accident lost the foresight of
his gun Shot a great number of times and only killed four. as the Elk were
scattered we Sent two parties for them, they return in the evening with
four Skins, and the flesh of three Elk, that of one of them haveing become
putred from the liver and pluck haveing been carelessly left in the Animal
all night. We were visited this Afternoon in a Canoe 4 feet 2 I. wide by
De-lash-hel-wilt a Chinnook Chief his wife and Six women of his Nation,
which the Old Boud his wife had brought for Market. this was the Same
party which had communicated the venereal to Several of our party in
November last, and of which.they have finally recovered. I therefore gave
the men a particular Charge with respect to them which they promised me to
observe. late this evening we were also visited by Ca-tel a Clatsop man
and his family. he brought a Canoe and a Sea Otter Skin for Sale neither
of which we could purchase of him. the Clatsops which had brought a Canoe
for Sale last evening left us this morning. Bratten is still very weak and
unwell.
There is a third Species of Brant in the neighbourhood of this place which
is about the Size and much the form of the bided brant. they weigh about
81/2 lbs. the wings are not as long nor So pointed as the Common pided
brant. the following is a likeness of its head and beak. a little distance
arround the base of the beak is white and is Suddenly Succeeded by a
narrow line of dark brown. the ballance of the neck, head, back, wings and
tail all except the tips of the feathers are of the blueish brown of the
Common wild goose, the breast and belly are white with an irregular
mixture of black feathers which give that part a pided appearance. from
the legs back underneath the tail, and around the junction of the Same
with the body above, the feathers are white. the tail is composed of 18
feathers; the longest of which are in the center and measure 6 inches with
the barrel of the quill; those on the Side of the tail are Something
Shorter and bend with their extremities inwards towards the center of the
tail. the extremities of these feathers are white. the beak is of a light
flesh colour. the legs and feet which do not differ in Structure from
those of the Goose or brant of the other Species, are of an orrange yellow
Colour. the eye is Small; the iris is of a dark yellowish brown, and puple
black. the note of this brant is much that of the common pided brant from
which in fact they are not to be distinguished at a distance, but they
Certainly are a distinct Species of brant. the flesh of this fowl is as
good as that of the Common pided brant. they do not remain here dureing
the winter in Such numbers as the white brant do, tho they have now
returned in Considerable quantities. we first met with this brant on tide
water.
The Clams of this coast are very Small. the Shells consist of two valves
which open with a hinge, the Shell is Smooth thin and of an oval form or
like that of the Common Muscle and of a Skye blue colour; it is of every
Size under a Inch & 3/4 in length, and hangs in clusters to the moss
of the rocks, the nativs Sometimes eate them. — The Periwinkle both of
the river and Ocian are Similar to those found in the Same Situation on
the Atlantic. — there is also an Animal which inhabits a Shell
perfectly circular about 3 inches in diameetor, thin and entire on the
marjin, convex and Smooth on the upper Side, plain on the under part and
covered with a number of minute Capillary fibers by means of which it
attaches itself to the Sides of the rocks. the Shell is thin and Consists
of one valve. a Small circular opperture is formed in the Center of the
under Shell the Animal is Soft and boneless &c..
[Lewis, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806. Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place
today. Drewyer and party did not return from the Cathlahmahs this evening
as we expected. we suppose he was detained by the hard winds of today. the
Indians remained with us all day, but would not dispose of their canoes at
a price which it was in our power to give consistently with the state of
our Stock of Merchandize. two handkercheifs would now contain all the
small articles of merchandize which we possess; the ballance of the stock
consists of 6 blue robes one scarlet do. one uniform artillerist's coat
and hat, five robes made of our large flag, and a few old cloaths trimed
with ribbon. on this stock we have wholy to depend for the purchase of
horses and such portion of our subsistence from the Indians as it will be
in our powers to obtain. a scant dependence indeed, for a tour of the
distance of that before us. the Clam of this coast are very small. the
shell consists of two valves which open with a hinge. the shell is smooth
thin of an oval form or like that of the common mussle, and sky blue
colour. it is about 11/2 inches in length, and hangs in clusters to the
moss of the rocks. the natives sometimes eat them. the perewinkle both of
the river and Ocean are similar to those found in the same situations on
the Atlantic coast. the common mussle of the river are also the same with
those in the rivers of the atlantic coast. the cockle is small and also
much the same of the Atlantic. there is also an animal which inhabits a
shell perfectly circular about 3 Inches in diameter, thin and entire on
the margin, convex and smooth on the upper side, plain on the under part
and covered with a number minute capillary fibers by means of which it
attatches itself to the sides of the rocks. the shell is thin and consists
of one valve. a small circular apperture is formed in the center of the
under shell. the animal is soft & boneless.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the great
falls of the Columbia has now made it's appearance in the creeks near this
place. one of them was brought us today by an Indian who had just taken it
with his gig. this is a likness of it; it was 2 feet 8 Inches long, and
weighed 10 lbs. the eye is moderately large, the puple black and iris of a
silvery white with a small addmixture of yellow, and is a little terbid
near it's border with a yellowish brown. the position of the fins may be
seen from the drawing, they are small in proportion to the fish. the fins
are boney but not pointed except the tail and back fins which are a little
so, the prime back fin and ventral ones, contain each ten rays; those of
the gills thirteen, that of the tail twelve, and the small fin placed near
the tail above has no bony rays, but is a tough flexable substance covered
with smooth skin. it is thicker in proportion to it's width than the
salmon. the tongu is thick and firm beset on each border with small
subulate teeth in a single series. the teeth of the mouth are as before
discribed. neither this fish nor the salmon are caught with the hook, nor
do I know on what they feed.
[Clark, March 16, 1806]
Sunday March 16th 1806 Not any occurrence worthy of relation took place
today. Drewyer and party did not return from the Cath lah mah's this
evening as we expected. we Suppose he was detained by the hard winds
today. the Indians remain with us all day, but would not dispose of their
Canoe at a price which it was in our power to give consistently with the
State of our Stock of Merchandize. One handkerchief would contain all the
Small articles of merchandize which we possess, the ballance of the Stock
Consists of 6 Small blue robes or Blankets one of Scarlet. one uniform
Artillerist's Coat and hat, 5 robes made of our larg flag, and a fiew our
old Clothes trimed with ribon. on this Stock we have wholy to depend for
the purchase of horses and Such portion of our Subsistence from the
Indians as it will be in our power to obtain. a scant dependence indeed
for the tour of the distance of that before us.
The pellucid jelly like Substance, called the Sea nettle I found in great
abundance along the Strand where it has been thrown up by the waves and
tide, and adheres to the Sand.
There are two Species of the Fuci, or (Seawead) Seawreck which we also
found thrown up by the waves. the 1st Specie at one extremity consists of
a large sesicle or hollow vessale which would contain from one to 2
gallons, of a conic form, the base of which forms the extreem End and is
convex and Globelar bearing on its center Some Short broad and irregular
fibers. the Substance is about the consistancy of the rind of a citron
Mellon and 3/4 of an inch thick, yellow celindrick, and regularly tapering
the tube extends to 20 or 30 feet and is then termonated with a number of
branches which are flat 1/2 inch in width, rough particularly on the
edges, where they are furnished with a number of little oval vesicles or
bags of the Size of a Pigions egg. this plant Seams to be calculated to
float at each extremity, while the little end of the tube from whence the
branches proceed, lies deepest in the water.
The white Salmon Trout which we had previously seen only at the Great
Falls of the Columbia, or a little below the Great Falls, has now made its
appearance in the creeks near this place. one of them was brought us to
day by an indian who had just taken it with his gig. This is a likeness of
it; it was 2 feet 8 inches long, and weighed ten pounds. the eye is
moderately large, the puple black with a Small admixture of yellow and the
iris of a Silvery white with a Small admixture of yellow and a little
tirbed near its border with a yellowish brown. the position of the fins
may be seen from the drawing, they are small in perpotion to the fish. the
fins are honey but not pointed except the tail and back fins which are a
little So, the prime back fin and venteral ones, contain each ten rays;
those of the gills twelve, and the Small Finn placed near the tail above
has no long rays, but is a tough flexable Substance covered with Smooth
Skin. it is thicker in perpotion to it's width than the Salmons. the
tongue is thick and firm beset on each border with small subulate teeth in
a Single Series. the Teeth of the mouth are as before discribed. neither
this fish nor the Salmon are cought with the hook, nor do I know on what
they feed.now begin to run &c. &c.
[Lewis, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806. Catel and his family left us this morning. Old
Delashelwilt and his women still remain they have formed a camp near the
fort and seem to be determined to lay close sege to us but I beleive
notwithstanding every effort of their wining graces, the men have
preserved their constancy to the vow of celibacy which they made on this
occasion to Capt C. and myself. we have had our perogues prepared for our
departer, and shal set out as soon as the weather will permit. the weather
is so precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April that we
might be detained several days longer before we could get from this to the
Cathlahmahs as it must be calm or we cannot accomplish that part of our
rout. Drewyer returned late this evening from the Cathlahmahs with our
canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left some days since, and also a canoe which
he had purchased from those people. for this canoe he gave my uniform
laced coat and nearly half a carrot of tobacco. it seems that nothing
excep this coat would induce them to dispose of a canoe which in their
mode of traffic is an article of the greatest value except a wife, with
whom it is equal, and is generally given in exchange to the father for his
daughter. I think the U States are indebted to me another Uniform coat,
for that of which I have disposed on this occasion was but little woarn. — we
yet want another canoe, and as the Clatsops will not sell us one at a
price which we can afford to give we will take one from them in lue of the
six Elk which they stole from us in the winter.
The pellucid jellylike substance, called the sea-nettle is found in great
abundance along the strad where it has been thrown up by the waves and
tide.
There are two speceis of the Fuci or seawreckwhich we also find thrown up
by the waves. the 1st speceis at one extremity consists of a large vesicle
or hollow vessell which would contain from one to two gallons, of a conic
form, the base of which forms the extreem end and is convex and globelar
bearing on it's center some short broad and irregular fibers. the
substance is about the consistence of the rind of a citron mellon and 3/4
of an inch thick. the rihind is smooth. from the small extremity of the
cone a long, hollow, celindrick, and regularly tapering tube extends to 20
or thirty feet and is then terminated with a number of branches which are
flat 1/2 an inch in width rough particular on the edges where they are
furnished with a number of little ovate vesicles or bags of the size of a
pigeon's egg. this plant seems to be calculated to float at each extremity
while the little end of the tube from whence the branches proceed, lies
deepest in the water.
The other speceis I have never seen but Capt. Clark who saw it on the
coast towards the Killamucks informed me that it resembled a large
pumpkin, it is solid and it's specific gravity reather greater than the
water, tho it is sometimes thrown out by the waves. it is of a yellowis
brown colour. the rhind smooth and consistence harder than that of a
pumpkin tho easily cut with a knife. there are some dark brown fibers
reather harder than any other part which pass longitudinally through the
pulp or fleshey substance wich forms the interior of this marine
production.The following is a list of the names of the commanders of
vessels who visit the entrance of the Columbia river in the spring and
autumn fror the purpose of trading with the natives or hunting Elk. these
names are spelt as the Indians pronounce them.
Mr. Haley, their favorite trader visits them in a vessel with three masts,
and continues some time
Youens, visits in a 3 masted vessel- Trader Tallamon do. 3 do. no trader
Callallamet do. 3 do. Trader. has a wooden leg. Swipton do. 3 do. Trader.
Moore do. 4 do. do. Mackey do. 3 do. do. Washington do. 3 do. do. Mesship
do. 3 do. do. Davidson do. 2
no trader hunts Elk Jackson do. 3 masted vessel Trader Bolch do. 3 do. do.
Skelley do. 3 do. do. tho he has been gone some years. he has one eye.
[Clark, March 17, 1806]
Monday March 17th 1806 Catel and his family left us this morning. Old
Delashelwill and his women still remain, they have formed a Camp near the
fort and Seam determined to lay Close Sege to us, but I believe
notwithstanding every effort of their wining graces, the men have
preserved their constancy to the vow of celibacy which they made on this
Occasion to Capt L. and my self. we have had our Canoes prepared for our
departure, and Shall Set out as Soon as the weather will permit. the
weather is So precarious that we fear by waiting untill the first of April
that we might be detained Several days longer before we could get from
this to the Cath-lah-mahs, as it must be Calm or we cannot accomplish that
part of the rout in our Canoes. Drewyer returned late this evening from
the Cath-lah-mahs with our Indian Canoe which Sergt. Pryor had left Some
days since, and also a Canoe, which he had purchased from those people.
for this canoe he gave Captn. Lewis's uniform laced coat and nearly half a
Carrot of to-bacco. it Seams that nothing except this Coat would induce
them to dispose of a Canoe which in their mode of traffic is an article of
the greatest value except a wife, with whome it is nearly equal, and is
generally given in exchange to the father for his Daughter. I think that
the United States are injustice indebted to Captn Lewis another uniform
Coat for that of which he has disposed of on this ocasion, it was but
little worn.
We yet want another Canoe as the Clatsops will not Sell us one, a
proposition has been made by one of our interpt and Several of the party
to take one in lieu of 6 Elk which they Stole from us this winter &c.
[Lewis, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 18th 1806. Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain
in his side. Capt. Clark blead him. several of the men are complaining of
being unwell. it is truly unfortunate that they should be sick at the
moment of our departure. we directed Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two
Canoes which Drewyer brought last evening for his mess. they wanted some
knees to strengthen them and several cracks corked and payed. he completed
them except the latter operation which the frequent showers in the course
of the day prevented as the canoes could not be made sufficiently dry even
with the assistance of fire. Comowooll and two Cathlahmahs visited us
today; we suffered them to remain all night. this morning we gave
Delashelwilt a certificate of his good deportment &c. and also a list
of our names, after which we dispatched him to his village with his female
band. These lists of our names we have given to several of the natives and
also paisted up a copy in our room. the object of these lists we stated in
the preamble of the same as follows (viz) "The object of this list is,
that through the medium of some civilized person who may see the same, it
may be made known to the informed world, that the party consisting of the
persons whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out by the
government of the U States in May 1804 to explore the interior of the
Continent of North America, did penetrate the same by way of the Missouri
and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific
Ocean, where they arrived on the 14th November 1805, and from whence they
departed the ____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States
by the same rout they had come out." — on the back of some of these
lists we added a sketch of the connection of the upper branches of the
Missouri with those of the Columbia, particularly of it's main S. E.
branch, on which we also delienated the track we had come and that we
meant to pursue on our return where the same happened to vary. There
seemed so many chances against our government ever obtaining a regular
report, though the medium of the savages and the traders of this coast
that we declined making any. our party are also too small to think of
leaving any of them to return to the U States by sea, particularly as we
shall be necessarily divided into three or four parties on our return in
order to accomplish the objects we have in view; and at any rate we shall
reach the United States in all human probability much earlier than a man
could who must in the event of his being left here depend for his passage
to the United States on the traders of the coast who may not return
immediately to the U States or if they should, might probably spend the
next summer in trading with the natives before they would set out on their
return. this evening Drewyer went inquest of his traps, and took an Otter.
Joseph Fields killed an Elk. — The Indians repeated to us the names of
eighteen distinct tribes residing on the S. E. coast who spoke the
Killamucks language, and beyound those six others who spoke a different
language which they did not comprehend.
[Clark, March 18, 1806]
Tuesday March 17th 1806 Drewyer was taken last night with a violent pain
in his Side. I bled him. Several of the men are complaining of being
unwell. it is truly unfortunate that they Should be Sick at the moment of
our departure. Derected Sergt. Pryor to prepare the two Indian Canoes
which we had purchased for his mess. they wanted Some knees to Strengthen
them, and Several cracks corked and payed. he compleated them except
paying. the frequent Showers of rain prevented the Canoes drying
Sufficient to pay them even with the assistance of fire.
Commorwool and two Cathlahmahs visited us to day; we Suffered them to
remain all night. this morning we gave Delashelwilt a certificate of his
good deportment &c. and also a list of our names, after which we
dispatched him to his village with his female band. Those list's of our
Names we have given to Several of the nativs, and also pasted up a Copy in
our room. the Object of these lists we Stated in the preamble of the Same
as follows Viz: "The Object of this list is, that through the medium of
Some civilized person who may See the Same, it may be made known to the
informed world, that the party consisting of the persons whoes names are
hereunto annexed, and who were Sent out by the Government of the United
States in May 1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North
America, did penetrate the Same by way of the Missouri and Columbia
rivers, to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocian, where they
arrived on the 14th of November 1805, and from whence they departed the
____ day of March 1806 on their return to the United States by the Same
rout they had come out."
On the back of lists we added a Sketch of the continent of the upper
branches of the Missouri with those of the Columbia, particularly of its
upper N. E. branch or Lewis's River, on which we also delienated the track
we had Came and that we ment to pursue on our return, when the Same
happened to vary. There Seemes So many chances against our governments
ever obtaining a regular report, through the medium of the Savages, and
the traders of this Coast that we decline makeing any. Our party are too
small to think of leaveing any of them to return to the Unt. States by
Sea, particularly as we Shall be necessarily devided into two or three
parties on our return in order to accomplish the Object we have in View;
and at any rate we Shall reach the U, States in all humain probabillity
much earlier than a man Could who must in the event of his being left here
depend for his passage to the U, State on the traders of the Coast, who
may not return imediately to the U, States. or if they should, might
probably Spend the next Summer in tradeing with the nativs before they
would Set out on their return. This evening Drewyer went in quest of his
traps, and took an otter. Joseph Field killd and Elk. — The Indians
repeated to us Eighteen distinct Nations resideing on the S S. E Coast who
Speak the Kil a mox language or understand it. and beyend those Six other
Nations which Speak a different language which they did not comprehend.
The 2d Species of Seawreck which I saw on the coast to the S. S. E. near
the Kil a mox nation. it resembles a large pumpkin, it is Solid and it's
Specific Gravity reather greater than the water, tho it is Sometimes
thrown out by the waves. it is of a pale yellowish brown colour. the rhind
Smooth and consistency harder than that of the pumpkin, tho easily cut
with a knife. there are Some fibers of a lighter colour and much harder
than any other part which pass Longitudinally through the pulp or fleshey
Substance which forms the interior of this marine production —
[Lewis, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806. It continued to rain and hail today in such
manner that nothing further could be done to the canoes. a pratry were
sent out early after the Elk which was killed yesterday with which they
returned in the course of a few hours. we gave Comowooll alias Connia, a
cirtificate of his good conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has
maintained with us during our residence at this place; we also gave him a
list of our names.do not. The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs
and Wac-ki-a-cums resemble each other as well in their persons and dress
as in their habits and manners. — their complexion is not remarkable,
being the usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America. they
are low in statue reather diminutive, and illy shapen; possessing thick
broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs wide mouths thick lips, nose
moderately large, fleshey, wide at the extremity with large nostrils,
black eyes and black coarse hair. their eyes are sometimes of a dark
yellowish brown the puple black. I have observed some high acqualine noses
among them but they are extreemty rare. the nose is generally low between
the eyes. — the most remarkable trait in their physiognomy is the
peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they artificially obtain by
compressing the head between two boards while in a state of infancy and
from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. this is a custom among
all the nations we have met with West of the Rocky mountains. I have
observed the heads of many infants, after this singular bandage had been
dismissed, or about the age of 10 or eleven months, that were not more
than two inches thick about the upper edge of the forehead and reather
thiner still higher. from the top of the head to the extremity of the nose
is one streight line. this is done in order to give a greater width to the
forehead, which they much admire. this process seems to be continued
longer with their female than their mail children, and neither appear to
suffer any pain from the operation. it is from this peculiar form of the
head that the nations East of the Rocky mountains, call all the nations on
this side, except the Aliahtans or snake Indians, by the generic name of
Flat heads. I think myself that the prevalence of this custom is a strong
proof that those nations having originally proceeded from the same stock.
The nations of this neighbourhood or those recapitulated above, wear their
hair loosly flowing on the back and sholders; both men and women divide it
on the center of the crown in front and throw it back behind the ear on
each side. they are fond of combs and use them when they can obtain them;
and even without the aid of the comb keep their hair in better order than
many nations who are in other rispects much more civilized than
themselves. — the large or apparently swolen legs particularly
observable in the women are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord
tight around the ankle. their method of squating or resting themselves on
their hams which they seem from habit to prefer to siting, no doubt
contributes much to this deformity of the legs by preventing free
circulation of the blood. the dress of the man consists of a smal robe,
which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and is attatched with
a string across the breast and is at pleasure turned from side to side as
they may have occasion to disencumber the right or left arm from the robe
entirely, or when they have occasion for both hands, the fixture of the
robe is in front with it's corners loosly hanging over their arms. they
sometimes wear a hat which has already been discribed. this robe is made
most commonly of the skins of a small animal which I have supposed was the
brown mungo, tho they have also a number, of the skins of the tiger cat,
some of those of the Elk which are used principally on their war
excursions, others of the skins of the deer panther and bear and a blanket
wove with the fingers of the wool of the native sheep. a mat is sometimes
temperarily thrown over the sholders to protect them from rain. they have
no other article of cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer. and
every part except the sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very
fond of the dress of the whites, which they wear in a similar manner when
they can obtain them, except the shoe which I have never seen woarn by any
of them. they call us pah-shish'e-ooks, or cloth men. The dress of the
women consists of a robe, tissue, and sometimes when the weather is
uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much smaller than that of the men,
never reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front sufficiently
far to cover the body. it is like that of the men confined across the
breast with a string and hangs loosly over the sholders and back. the most
esteemed and valuable of these robes are made of strips of the skins of
the Sea Otter net together with the bark of the white cedar or silk-grass.
these strips are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little
distance assunder, and then net or wove together in such manner that the
fur appears equally on both sides, and unites between the strands. it make
a warm and soft covering. other robes are formed in a similar manner of
the skin of the Rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the skin is dressed
in the hair and woarn without any further preperation. in this way one
beaver skin, or two of those of the Raccoon or tiger catt forms the
pattern of the robe. the vest is always formed in the manner first
discribed of their robes and covers the body from the armpits to the
waist, and is confined behind, and destitute of straps over the sholder to
keep it up. when this vest is woarn the breast of the woman is concealed,
but without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed, and from
the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length
particularly in aged women in many of whom I have seen the hubby reach as
low as the waist. The garment which occupys the waist, and from thence as
low as nearly to the knee before and the ham, behind, cannot properly be
denominated a petticoat, in the common acceptation of that term; it is a
tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small shreds, which are
interwoven in the middle by means of several cords of the same materials,
which serve as well for a girdle as to hold in place the shreds of bark
which form the tissue, and which shreds confined in the middle hang with
their ends pendulous from the waist, the whole being of sufficient
thickness when the female stands erect to conceal those parts usually
covered from formiliar view, but when she stoops or places herself in many
other attitudes, this battery of Venus is not altogether impervious to the
inquisitive and penetrating eye of the amorite. This tissue is sometimes
formed of little twisted cords of the silk grass knoted at their ends and
interwoven as discribed of the bark. this kind is more esteemed and last
much longer than those of bark. they also form them of flags and rushes
which are woarn in a similar manner. the women as well as the men
sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat woarn over the sholders.
they also cover their heads from the rain sometimes with a common water
cup or basket made of the cedar bark and beargrass. these people seldom
mark their skins by puncturing and introducing a colouring matter. such of
them as do mark themselves in this manner prefer their legs and arms on
which they imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or
circularly. the women more frequently than the men mark themselves in this
manner.
The favorite ornament of both sexes are the common coarse blue and white
beads which the men wear tightly wound arond their wrists and ankles many
times untill they obtain the width of three or more inches. they also wear
them in large rolls loosly arond the neck, or pendulous from the cartelage
of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated for the purpose. the
women wear them in a similar manner except in the nose which they never
purforate. they are also fond of a species of wampum which is furnished
them by a trader whom they call Swipton. it seems to be the native form of
the shell without any preperation. this shell is of a conic form somewhat
curved, about the size of a raven's quill at the base, and tapering to a
point which is sufficiently large to permit to hollow through which a
small thred passes; it is from one to 11/2 Inches in length, white,
smooth, hard and thin. these are woarn in the same manner in which the
beads are; and furnish the men with their favorite ornament for the nose.
one of these shells is passed horizontally through the cartilage of the
nose and serves frequently as a kind of ring to prevent the string which
suspends other ornaments at the same part from chafing and freting the
flesh. the men sometimes wear collars of bears claws, and the women and
children the tusks of the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c.
both males and females wear braslets on their wrists of copper brass or
Iron in various forms. I think the most disgusting sight I have ever
beheld is these dirty naked wenches. The men of these nations partake of
much more of the domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed. they
collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, assist in cleansing and
preparing the fish, and always cook for the strangers who visit them. they
also build their houses, construct their canoes, and make all their wooden
utensils. the peculiar provence of the woman seems to be to collect roots
and manufacture various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags,
cedar bark, bear grass or waytape. the management of the canoe for various
purposes seems to be a duty common to both sexes, as also many other
occupations which with most Indian nations devolves exclusively on the
woman. their feasts which they are very fond are always prepared and
served by the men.
Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening. it continued to
rain so constantly today that Sergt. Pryor could not pitch his canoes.
[Clark, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806 Inds. Descd. It continued to rain and hail in
Such a manner that nothing Could be done to the Canoes. a party were Sent
out early after the Elk which was killed last evening, with which they
returned in the Course of a fiew hours, we gave Commorwool alias Cania, a
Certificate of his good conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has
maintained with us dureing our residence at this place; we also gave him a
list of our names &c. — The Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cath lah
mahs Wau ki a cum and Chiltz I-resemble each other as well in their
persons and Dress as in their habits and manners. — their complexion
is not remarkable, being the usial Copper brown of the tribes of North
America. they are low in Statue reather diminutive, and illy Shaped,
possessing thick broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths,
thick lips, noses Stuk out and reather wide at the base, with black eyes
and black coarse hair.
I have observed Some high acqualine noses among them but they are
extreemly reare. the most remarkable trate in their physiognamy is the
peculiar flatness and width of the forehead which they Artificially obtain
by compressing the head between two boards while in a State of infancy,
and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. This is a custom
among all the nations, we have met with West of the Rocky Mountains. I
have observed the head of maney infants, after this Singular Bandage had
been dismissed, or about the age of 11 or 12 months, that were not more
than two inches thick about the upper part of the forehead and reather
thiner Still higher. from the top of the head to the extremity of the nose
is one Streight line. this is done in order to give a greater width to the
forehead, which they much admire. This process seams to be continued
longer with their female than their male children, and neither appears to
Suffer any pain from the opperation. it is from this peculiar form of the
head that the nations East of the Rocky Mountains, call all the nations on
this Side, except Aliahtans, So-so-ne, or Snake Indians by the General
name of Flat Heads. I think my Self that the provalence of this custom is
a Strong proof of those nations haveing originally proceeded from the Same
Stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recpitulated above, ware
their hair loosly flowing on their back and Sholders; both men and women
divide it on the Center of the Crown in front and throw it back behind the
ear on each Side. they are fond of Combs and use them when they Can obtain
them; and even without the aid of Combs keep their in better order, than
inaney nations who are in other respects much more Civilized than
themselves.
The large or apparently Sweled legs particularly observable in the women,
are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the leg above
the ancle bone. their method of Squating or resting themselves on their
hams which they Seam from habit to prefer to Setting, no doubt contributes
much to this deformity of the legs by preventing free circulation of the
blood. This is also the Custom of the nations above.
The dress of the men like those above on the Columbia river Consists of a
Small robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and is
attatched with a String across the breast and is at pleasure turned from
Side to Side as they may have an occasion to disincumber the right or left
arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both hands, the
fixture of the robe is in front with it's corner loosly hanging over their
Arms. they Sometimes wear a hat which have already been discribed (See
29th Jany.) Their Robes are made most commonly of the Skins of a Small
animal which I have Supposed was the brown mungo, tho they have also a
number of the Skins of the tiger Cat, Some of those of the Elk which are
used principally on their war excursions, others of the Skins of Deer,
panthor, Bear, and the Speckle Loon, and blankets wove with the fingers of
the wool of the native Sheep. and Some of those on the Sea Coast have
robes of Beaver and the Sea Otter. a mat is Sometimes temperaly thrown
over the Sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article of
Cloathing whatever neither winter nor Summer, and every part except the
Sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress of
the whites, which they ware in a Similar manner when they Can obtain them,
except the Shoe or mockerson which I have never Seen worn by any of them.
They Call us pah-shish-e-ooks or Cloath men. The dress of the women
consists of a roab, tissue, and Sometimes when the weather is uncommonly
Cold, a vest. their robe is much Smaller than that of the men, never
reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front Sufficiently far to
cover the body. it is like that of the men confined across the breast with
a String and hangs loosely over the Sholders and back. the most esteemed
& valuable of those robes are made of Strips of the Skin of the Sea
Otter net together with the bark of the white Cedar or Silk grass. these
fish are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little distance
asunder, and then net or wove together in Such a manner that the fur
appears equally on both Sides, and united between the Strands. it makes a
worm and Soft covering. other robes are formed in a Similar manner of the
Skins of the rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the Skins is dressed
in the hair and worn without any further preperation. in this way one
beaver Skin or two of the rackoon or one of the tiger Cat forms a vest and
Covers the body from the Armpits to the waist, and is confined behind, and
destitute of Straps over the Sholder to keep it up. when this vest is worn
the breast of the woman in consealed, but without it which is almost
always the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of remaining loose
and unsuspended grow to great length, particularly in aged women, on many
of whome I have Seen the bubby reach as low as the waist. The petticoat or
tissue which occupies the waiste has been already described (See 7th Novr.
1805) formd. of the Bark of white cedar, Silk grass, flags & rushes.
The women as well as the men Sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a
mat worn over the Sholders. They also Cover their heads from the rain
Sometimes with a common water cup or basket made of Cedar bark and bear
grass.
Those people Sometimes mark themselves by punctureing and introducing a
Colouring matter. Such of them as do mark themselves in this manner prefur
the legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots either
longitudinally or circularly. the woman more frequently than the men mark
themselves in this manner. The favorite orniments of both Sexes are the
Common coarse blue and white beads as before discribed of the Chinnooks.
Those beads the men wear tightly wound around their wrists and Ankles
maney times untill they obtain the width of three or four inches. they
also wear them in large rolls loosly around the neck, or pendulous from
the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purfarated in
different places round the extremities for the purpose. the woman wear
them in a Similar manner except in the nose which they never purfarate.
they are also fond of a Species of wompum, which is furnished by a trader
whome they call Swipton. it seams to be the nativ form of the Shell
without any preperation. this Shell is of a conic form Somewhat curved
about the Size of a ravens quill at the base, and tapering to a point
which is Sufficiently large to permit a hollow through which a Small
thread passes; it is from 1 to 11/2 inches in length, white, Smooth, hard
and thin these are worn in the Same manner in which the beeds are; and
furnish the men with their favorite orniment for the nose. one of these
Shells is passed horizontally through cartilage of the nose and Serves
frequently as a kind of ring which prevents the string which Suspends
other orniments at the Same part from Chafing and freting the flesh. The
men Sometimes wear Collars of Bears Claws, and the women and children the
tusks of the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both male
and female wear bracelets on their wrists of Copper, Brass or Iron in
various forms. The women Sometimes wash their faces & hands but
Seldom. I think the most disgusting Sight I have ever beheld is those
dirty naked wenches.
The men of those nations partake of much more of the domestic drudgery
than I had at first Supposed. they Collect and prepare all the fuel, make
the fires, cook for the Strangers who visit them, and assist in Cleaning
and prepareing the fish. they also build their houses, construct their
Canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the peculiar province of the
woman Seams to be to collect roots and manufacture various articles which
are prepared of rushes, flags, Cedar bark, bear grass or way tape, also
dress and manufacture the Hats & robes for Common use. the management
of the Canoe for various purposes Seams to be a duty common to both Sexes,
as are many other occupations which with most Indian nations devolve
exclusively on the womin. their feasts of which they are very fond are
always prepared and Served by the men...
it Continued to rain So constantly dureing the day that Sergt. Pryor Could
not Pay his Canoes. The Clatsop Chief Commowool and the two Cath-lah-mahs
left us this evening and returned to their village.
[Lewis, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806. It continued to rain and blow so violently today
that nothing could be done towards forwarding our departure. we intended
to have Dispatched Drewyer and the two Fieldses to hunt near the bay on
this side of the Cathlahmahs untill we jounded them from hence, but the
rain rendered our departure so uncertain that we declined this measure for
the present. nothing remarkable happened during the day. we have yet
several days provision on hand, which we hope will be sufficient to
subsist us during the time we are compelled by the weather to remain at
this place.
Altho we have not fared sumptuously this winter and spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quite as comfortably as we had any reason to expect
we should; and have accomplished every object which induced our remaining
at this place except that of meeting with the traders who visit the
entrance of this river. our salt will be very sufficient to last us to the
Missouri where we have a stock in store. — it would have been very
fortunate for us had some of those traders arrived previous to our
departure from hence, as we should then have had it our power to obtain an
addition to our stock of merchandize which would have made our homeward
bound journey much more comfortable. many of our men are still complaining
of being unwell; Willard and Bratton remain weak, principally I beleive
for the want of proper food. I expect when we get under way we shall be
much more healthy. it has always had that effect on us heretofore. The
guns of Drewyer and Sergt. Pryor were both out of order. the first was
repared with a new lock, the old one having become unfit for uce; the
second had the cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which
had been prepared for the lock at Harpers ferry where she was
manufactured. but for the precaution taken in bringing on those extra
locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity of John Shields,
most of our guns would at this moment been untirely unfit for use; but
fortunately for us I have it in my power here to record that they are all
in good order.
[Clark, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806 It continued to rain and blow so violently to day
that nothing could be done towards fowarding our departure. we intended to
have dispatched Drewyer & the 2 Field'es to hunt above Point William
untill we joined them from hense but the rain renders our departure So
uncertain that we decline this measure for the present. nothing remarkable
happened dureing the day. we have yet Several days provisions on hand,
which we hope will be Sufficient to Serve us dureing the time we are
compell'd by the weather to remain at this place..
Altho we have not fared Sumptuously this winter & Spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quit as comfortably as we had any reason to expect
we Should; and have accomplished every object which induced our remaining
at this place except that of meeting with the traders who visit the
enterance of this river. our Salt will be very sufficient to last us to
the Missouri where we have a Stock in Store. — it would have been very
fortunate for us had Some of those traders arrived previous to our
departure from hence; as we Should then have had it in our power to obtain
an addition to our Stock of merchandize, which would have made our
homeward bound journey much more comfortable.
Maney of our men are Still Complaining of being unwell; Bratten and
Willard remain weak principally I believe for the want of proper food. I
expect when we get under way that we Shall be much more healthy. it has
always had that effect on us heretofore.
The Guns of Sergt. Pryor & Drewyer were both out of order. the first
had a Cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had been
prepared for the Locks at Harpers Ferry; the Second repared with a new
Lock, the old one becoming unfit for use. but for the precaution taken in
bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the
ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment been
entirely unfit for use; but fortunate for us I have it in my power here to
record that they are in good order, and Complete in every respect-
[Lewis, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806. As we could not set out we thought it best to send
out some hunters and accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins on this
side the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or
sooner if they were successfull. The hunters returned late in the evening
unsuccessfull. we have not now more than one day's provision on hand. we
directed Drewyer and the Feildses to set out tomorrow morning early, and
indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond point William. we
were visited to day by some Clatsop indians who left us in the evening.
our sick men Willard and bratton do not seem to recover; the former was
taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratton is now
so much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with rispect to his recovery;
the pain of which he complains most seems to be seated in the small of his
back and remains obstinate. I beleive that it is the rheumatism with which
they are both afflicted.
[Clark, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806 as we could not Set out we thought it best to Send
out Some hunters and accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins on this
Side of the Netul for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or
Sooner if they were Successfull. they returned late in the evening
unsuccessfull. we have not now more than two days provisions on hand. we
derected Drewyer and the two Fieldses to Set out tomorrow morning early,
and indevour to provide us Some provision on the Bay beyond point William.
we were visited to day by Some Clatsops who left us in the evening. our
sick men willard and Bratten do not Seem to recover; the former was taken
with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so much
reduced that I am Somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery; the pain
of which he complains most Seems to be Settled in the Small of his back
and remains obstenate. I believe that it is the Rheumatism with which they
are both affected..
[Lewis, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22cd 1806. Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning
agreably to the order of the last evening. we sent out seven hunters this
morning in different directions on this side the Netul. about 10 A.M. we
were visited by 4 Clatsops and a killamucks; they brought some dried
Anchoveis and a dog for sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly
temperate, but it continues to rain in such a manner that there be is no
possibility of geting our canoes completed. — at 12 OCk. we were
visited by Comowooll and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Cheif we left our
houses and funiture. he has been much more kind an hospitable to us than
any other indian in this neighbourhood. the Indians departed in the
evening. the hunters all returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we
determined to set out tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes
temperarily with Mud and halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing
of the hucklebury riminds us of spring.
[Clark, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22nd 1806 Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this
morning agreably to the order of last evening. we Sent out Six hunters
this morning in different directions on both Sides of the Netul. about 10
A.M. we were visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool 8 Clatsops and a
Kil-a-mox; they brought Some dried Anchovies, a common Otter Skin and a
Dog for Sale all of which we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our Sick
men, the fish for to add to our Small Stock of provision's, and the Skin
to cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening. the air is
perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in Such a manner that there
is no possibillity of getting our canoes completed in order to Set out on
our homeward journey. The Clatsops inform us that Several of their nation
has the Sore throat, one of which has laterly died with this disorder. the
Hunters Sent out to day all returned except Colter unsessfull.
[Lewis, March 23, 1806]
Sunday March 23rd 1806. Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed
one Elk but so distant that we could not send for the meat and get arround
Point William today, we therefore prefered seting out and depending on
Drewyer and the hunters we have sent forward for meat. the wind is pretty
high but it seems to be the common opinion that we can pass point William.
we accordingly distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be
launched and loaded for our departure. — at 1 P.M. we bid a final
adieu to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than a mile before we met
Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks men and women. this Cheif leaning
that we were in want of a canoe some days past, had brought us one for
sale, but being already supplyed we did not purchase it. I obtained one
Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we had passed
Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult shore; at 1/2 after
five we doubled point William, and at 7 arrived in the mouth of a small
creek where we found our hunters. they had killed 2 Elk, at the distance
of a mile & 1/2. it was too late to send after it this evening. we
therefore encamped on the Stard side of the Creek. the wind was not very
hard.
[Clark, March 23, 1806]
Sunday 23rd March 1806 This morning proved So raney and uncertain that we
were undeturmined for Some time whether we had best Set out & risque
the river which appeared to be riseing or not. Jo. Colter returned haveing
killed an Elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. the rained Seased and it
became fair about Meridean, at which time we loaded our Canoes & at 1
P.M. left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had
wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have
lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can Say that we were
never one day without 3 meals of Some kind a day either pore Elk meat or
roots, not withstanding the repeeted fall of rain which has fallen almost
Constantly Since we passed the long narrows on the ____ of Novr. last
indeed we have had only ____ days fair weather since that time. Soon after
we had Set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by De lash el wilt & 8
men of the Chinnooks, and Delashelwilts wife the old bond and his Six
Girls, they had, a Canoe, a Sea otter Skin, Dried fish and hats for Sale,
we purchased a Sea otter Skin, and proceeded on, thro Meriwethers Bay,
there was a Stiff breese from the S. W. which raised Considerable Swells
around Meriwethers point which was as much as our Canoes Could ride. above
point William we came too at the Camp of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they
had killed 2 Elk which was about 11/2 miles distant. here we Encampd. for
the night having made 16 miles.
[Lewis, March 24, 1806]
Monday March 24th 1806. This morning we sent out a party of 15, at light,
for the meat, and concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they soon
returned. we breakfasted and set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M. Saw a white
woodpecker with a red head of the small kind common to the United States;
this bird has but lately returned. they do not remain during the winter.
the country thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today,
not a single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen. a few
Cormorant, duckinmallard, butterbox, and common large geese were only to
be found the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in
passing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the
river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho there
is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we arrived at
the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some wappetoe, a dog
for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. on one of the seal Islands
opposite to the village of these people thy have scaffolded their dead in
canoes elivating them above tidewater mark. these people are very fond of
sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a variety of specemines about
their houses. the broad peices supporting the center of the roof and those
through which the doors are cut, seem to be the peices on which they most
display their taist. I saw some of these which represented human figures
setting and supporting the burthen on their sholders. at half after 3 P.M.
we set out and continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much
attention we mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook
us and put us in the wright channel. this Cathlahmah claimed the small
canoe which we had taken from the Clatsops. however he consented very
willingly to take an Elk's skin for it which I directed should be given
him and he immediately returned. we continued our rout along the South
side of the river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to
the lower Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho wood was abundant
after dark two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. they remained
with us all night. came 15 miles today.
[Clark, March 24, 1806]
Monday 24th of March 1806 Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the
flesh of the two Elk killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. they returned
at 8 oClock, after taking a Slight brackfast we Set out at half past 9
a.m. and proceeded to the Cath lah mah Village at 1 P.M. and remained
untill 1/2 after 3 p.m.at this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a
Dog for our Sick men Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak State. at
this Village I saw two very large elegant Canoes inlaid with Shills, those
Shills I took to be teeth at first View, and the nativs informed Several
of the men that they the teeth of their enemies which they had killed in
War. in examineing of them Closely haveing taken out Several pices, we
found that were Sea Shells which yet contained a part of the iner ____
they also deckerate their Smaller wooden vessles with those Shells which
have much the appearance of humane teeth, Capt Cook may have mistaken
those Shills verry well for humane teeth without a Close examination. The
Village of these people is the dirtiest and Stinkingest place I ever Saw
in any Shape whatever, and the inhabitants partake of the carrestick of
the Village. we proceeded on through Some difficult and narrow Channels
between the Seal Islands, and the South Side to an old village on the
South Side opposit to the lower War ki a com village, and Encamped. to
this old villg. a very considerable deposit of the dead at a Short
distance below, in the usial and Customary way of the nativs of this Coast
in Canoes raised from the ground as before described. Soon after we made
our Camp 2 Indians visited us from the opposit Side, one of them Spoke
Several words of English and repeeted the names of the traders, and maney
of the Salors. made 16 Miles
[Lewis, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday March 25th 1806. The morning being disagreeably cold we remained
and took break-fast. at 7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along the
South Coast of the river against the wind and a strong current, our
progress was of course but slow. at noon we halted and dined. here some
Clatsops came to us in a canoe loaded with dryed anchovies, which they
call Olthen, Wappetoe and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up
on a trading voyage to the Skillutes. — I observe that the green bryer
which I have previously mentioned as being common on this river below tide
water retains it's leaves all winter. — the red willow and seven bark
begin to put fourth their leaves. — after dinner we passed the river
to a large Island 2 and continued our rout allong the side of the same
about a mile when we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam of one lodge;
here we found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from appearances had
remained here some time for the purpose of taking sturgeon, which they do
by trolling. they had ten or douzen very fine sturgeon which had not been
long taken. we offered to purchase some of their fish but they asked us
such an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of the men
purchased a sea Otterskin at this lodge, for which he gave a dressed
Elkskin and an handkercheif. near this lodge we met some Cathlahmahs who
had been up the river on a fishing excurtion. they had a good stock of
fish on board, but did not seem disposed to sell them. we remained at this
place about half an hour and then continued our rout up the Island to it's
head and passed to the south side. the wind in the evening was very hard.
it was with some difficulty that we could find a spot proper for an
encampment, the shore being a swamp for several miles back; at length late
in the evening opposite to the place we had encamped on the 6th of
November last; we found the entrance of a small creek which afforded us a
safe harbour from the wind and encamped. the ground was low and moist tho
we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of
Cathlahmahs about 10 in number who had established a temperary residence
for the purpose of fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine parcel
of sturgeon and some seal. they gave us some of the fleese of the seal
which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer
and the Feildses who had been seperated from us since morning; they had
passed on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer. the
bottom lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with a broad leaf
which resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush red willow, broad
leafed willow, sevenbark, goosburry, green bryer & the larged leafed
thorn; the latter is now in bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a
freut about an inch in diameter which is good to eat.
[Clark, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday 25th of March 1806 Last night and this morning are cool wend hard
a head and tide going out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on about
4 miles and came too on the South Side to worm and dry our Selves a
little. Soon after we had landed two Indians Came from a War kia cum
village on the opposit Side with 2 dogs and a fiew Wappato to Sell neither
of which we bought. Som Clatsops passed down in a Canoe loaded with fish
and Wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we Concluded
to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected at 1 oClock, at
which hour we Set out met two Canoes of Clatsops loaded with dried
anchovies and Sturgion which they had taken and purchased above we crossed
over to an Island on which was a Cath lahmah fishing Camp of one Lodge;
here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who must have for Some
time for the purpose of taking Sturgeon which they do by trolling. they
had 10 or 12 very fine Sturgeon which had not been long taken; we wished
to purchase some of their fish but they asked Such extravegent prices that
we declined purchaseing. one of our Party purchased a Sea otter Skin at
this Lodge for which he gave a dressed Elk Skin & a Handkerchief. we
remained at this place about half an hour and then Continued our rout. the
winds in the evening was verry hard, it was with Some dificuelty that we
Could find a Spot proper for an encampment, the Shore being a Swamp for
Several miles back; at length late in the evening opposit to the place we
had encamped on the 6th of Novr. last; we found the enterance of a Small
Creek which offered us a Safe harbour from the Winds and Encamped. the
Ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we
found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in number, who had established
a temporary residence for the purpose of fishing and takeing Seal. they
had taken about 12 Sturgeon and Some Seal. they gave us Some of the flesh
of the Seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we
found Drewyer and the 2 Fields who had been Seperated from us Since
Morning; they had passed on the North Side of the large Island which was
much nearest. the bottom lands are Covered with a Species of Arspine, the
Growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under
brush red willow, broad leafed Willow, Seven bark, Goose berry, Green
bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is Now in blume, the nativs
inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch in diamieter which is good
to eate. the red willow and 7 bark begin to put foth their leaves. The
green bryor which I have before mentioned retains leaves all winter. made
15 Miles
[Lewis, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806. The wind blew so hard this morning that we
delayed untill 8 A.M. we gave a medal of small size to a man by the name
of Wal-lal'-le, a principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very
thankfull for the honour conferred on him and presented us a large
sturgeon. we continued our rout up the river to an old village on the
Stard. side where we halted for dinner. we met on the way the principal
Cheif of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a
trading voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also purchased some
of the latter. soon after we halted for dinner the two Wackiacums who have
been pursuing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale, arrived.
they wish tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not disposed to
give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots. our men who have
been accustomed to the use of this article Tobaco and to whom we are now
obliged to deny the uce of this article appear to suffer much for the want
of it. they substitute the bark of the wild crab which they chew; it is
very bitter, and they assure me they find it a good substitute for
tobacco. the smokers substitute the inner bark of the red willow and the
sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having killed three Eagles and a
large goose. I had now an oportunity of comparing the bald with the grey
Eagle; I found that the greay Eagle was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and
feet were dark while those of the bald Eagle wer of a fine orrange yellow;
the iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown while that of the
other is of a bright silvery colour with a slight admixture of yellow.
after dinner we proceeded on and passed an Elegant and extensive bottom on
the South side and an island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's
Island and bottom. the greater part of the bottom is a high dry prarie.
near the river towards the upper point we saw a fine grove of whiteoak
trees; we saw some deer and Elk at a distance in the prarie, but did not
delay for the purpose of hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner
untill late in the evening and encamped on the next island above fanny's
Island. we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as answered our
purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on before us after dinner did not
join us this evening. some Indians visited us after dark, but did not
remain long. agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we came
16 m. 23rd, 16 m. the 24th, 15 the 25th, and 18 m. the 26th, tho I now
think that our estimate in decending the river was too short.
[Clark, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806 The wind blew So hard untill 8 A M. that we
detained, we gave a Medal to a Man by the name of Wal-lal-le a principal
man among the Cath lah mahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honor
Confured on him and presented us with a large Sturgion. we Continued our
rout up the river to an old Village on the South Side where we halted for
dinner. we met on the way the principal Chief of the Cathlahmahs,
Sah-hah-wah-cop, who had been up the river on a trading voyage, he gave us
some Wappato and fish, we also purchased Some Wappato Soon after halted
for dinner at an Old Village on the South point opposit the lower pt. of
Fannys Island. The two Warkiacums who had been pursueing us Since yester
day morning with two dogs for Sale, arrived. they wish Tobacco in exchange
for their dogs which we are not disposed to give, as our Stock is now
reduced to 3 carrots. our men who have been acustomed to the use of this
article, and to Whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this article
appear to Suffer Much for the want of it. they Substitute the bark of the
wild Crab which they Chew; it is very bitter and they assure me they find
it a good Substitute for tobacco. the Smokers Substitute the iner bark of
the redwillow and the saccommis.
here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3 Eagles and a large Wild goose.
I had now an oppertunity of Comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I
found the grey Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were dark which
those of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye
is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the Grey is of a light
Silvery colour with a Slight admixture of yellow. after dinner I walked on
Shore through an eligant bottom on the South Side opposit to Fannys
Island.
This bottom we also Call fannys bottom it is extensive and an open leavel
plain except near the river bank which is high dry rich oak land. I saw
Some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie. we continued untill late
in the evening and encamped on a Small Island near the Middle of the river
haveing made 18 Miles. 2 Indians Visited us this evining
[Lewis, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806. We set out early this morning and were shortly
after joined by some of the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe
for the purpose of trading roots and fish. at 10 A.M. we arrived at two
houses of this nation on the Stard. side where we halted for breakfast.
here we overtook our hunters, they had killed nothing. the natives
appeared extreemly hospitable, gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon,
wappetoe, quamash, and a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2
inches in length and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are
crisp, milkey, and agreeably flavored. most of the party were served by
the natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on our remaining
all day with them and hunting the Elk and deer which they informed us were
very abundant in their neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit
us to dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their friendly
invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the principal village of
these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the Cow-e-lis'-kee river a few
miles from it's entrance into the columbia. these people are said to be
numer-ous. in their dress, habits, manners and language they differ but
little from the Clatsops Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war
with Chinnooks but peace is said now to be restored between them, but
their intercourse is not yet resumed. no Chinnooks come above the marshey
islands nor do the Skillutes visit the mouth of the Columbia. the
Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and Wackkiacums are the carriers between these
nations being in alliance with both. — The Coweliskee is 150 yards
wide, is deep and from indian Information navigable a very considerable
distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia about three
miles above a remarkable high rocky vole which is situated on the N. side
of the river by which it is washed on the South side and is seperated from
the Nothern hills of the river by a wide bottom of several miles to which
it is united. I suspect that this river waters the country lying West of
the range of mountains which pass the columbia between the great falls and
rapids, and north of the same nearly to the low country which commences on
the N. W. coast about Latitude ____ North. above the Skillutes on this
river another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside, who are
said also to be numerous. at the distance Of 2 m. above the village at
which we breakfasted we passed the entrance of this river; we saw several
fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were
attended all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who
visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we purchased
as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they seemed perfectly
satisfyed with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very orderly
manner. late in the evening we passed our camp of the 5th of November and
encamped about 41/2 above at the commencement of the bottom land on stard.
below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before we were visited by a
large canoe with eight men; from them we obtained a dryed fruit which
resembled the raspburry and which I beeive to be the fruit of the large
leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascid tho pleasently
flavored. I preserved a specemine of this fruit I fear that it has been
baked in the process of drying and if so the seed will not vegitate. saw
the Cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash and the broad leafed ash, the
growth which resembles the beach &c. these form the growth of the
bottom lands while the hills are covered almost exclusively with the
various speceis of fir heretofore discribed. the black Alder appears as
well on some parts of the hills as the bottoms. before we set out from the
Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe and Drewyers with orders to
proceed as fast as they could to Deer island and there to hunt and wait
our arrival. we wish to halt at that place to repair our canoes if
possible. the indians who visited us this evening remained but a short
time, they passed the river to the oposite side and encamped. the night as
well as the day proved cold wet and excessively disagreeable. we came 20
miles today.
[Clark, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806. a rainey disagreeable night rained the greater
part of the night we Set out this morning verry early and proceeded on to
two houses of the Skil-lute Indians on the South Side here we found our
hunters who had Seperated from us last evening. the wind rose and the rain
became very hard Soon after we landed here we were very friendly receved
by the natives who gave all our party as much fish as they Could eate,
they also gave us Wappato and pashaquaw roots to eate prepared in their
own way. also a Species of Small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in
length and as thick as a mans finger, these are eaten raw, or crips,
milkey and agreeably flavoured; the nativs insisted on our remaining all
day with them and hunt the Elk and deer which they informed us was very
abundant in this neighbourhood. but as the weather would not permit our
drying our Canoes in order to pitch them, we declined their friendly
invertation, and resumed our voyage at 12 oClock. The principal village of
the Skil-lutes is Situated on the lower Side of the Cow-e-lis kee river a
fiew miles from it's enterance into the Columbia. those people are Said to
be noumerous, in their dress, habits, manners and Language they differ but
little from the Clatsops, Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war
with the Chinnooks, but peace is Said to be now restored between them, but
their inter Course is not yet restored. no Chinnook Come above the
Warkiacums, nor do the Skillutes visit the Mouth of the Columbia. The
Clatsops, Cath lahmahs & War kia coms are the Carriers between those
nations being in alliance with both-. The Cow e lis kee river is 150 yards
wide, is deep and from Indian information navigable a very considerable
distance for canoes. it discharges itself into the Columbia about 3 miles
above a remarkable knob which is high and rocky and Situated on the North
Side of the Columbia, and Seperated from the Northern hills of the river
by a Wide bottom of Several Miles, to which it united. I Suspect that this
river Waters the Country lying west of a range of Mountains which passes
the Columbia between the Great falls and rapids, and North of the Same
nearly to the low country which Commences on the N W. Coast about Latitude
4° ____ North. above the Skil lutes on this river another nation by the
name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are Said also to be numerous. at
the distance of 2 miles above the village at which we brackfast we passed
the enterance of this river; we Saw Several fishing camps of the Skillutes
on both Sides of the Columbia, and also on both Sides of this river. we
were attended all the evening by parties of the nativs in their Canoes who
visited us for the purpose of tradeing their fish and roots; we purchased
as maney as we wished on very moderate terms; they Seamed perfectly
Satisfied with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very orderly
manner. late in the evening we passed the place we Camped the 5th of Novr.
and Encamped about 4 miles above at the Commencement of the Columbian
Vally on the Stard. Side below Deer Island. we had Scercily landed before
we were visited by a large Canoe with 8 men; from them we obtained a dried
fruit which resembled the raspberry and which I beleave is the fruit of
the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather ascide tho
pleasently flavored. Saw Cotton wood, Sweet Willow, white oake, ash and
the broad leafed ash the Growth which resembles the bark &c. these
form the groth of the bottom lands, whilst the Hills are almost
exclusively Covered with the various Species of fir heretofore discribed.
the black alder appears on Maney parts of the hills Sides as on the
bottoms. before we Set out from the 2 houses where we brackfast we Sent on
two Canoes with the best hunters, with orders to pro ceed as fast as they
Could to Deer island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to
halt at that place and repare 2 of our Canoes if possible. the Indians
that visited us this evining remained but a Short time, they passed over
to an Island and encamped. the night as well as the day proved Cold wet
and excessively disagreeable. we Came 20 miles in the Course of this day.
[Lewis, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806. This morning we set out very early and at 9 A.M.
arrived at the old Indian Village on Lard side of Deer Island where we
found our hunters had halted and left one man with the two canoes at their
camp; they had arrived last evening at this place and six of them turned
out to hunt very early this morning; by 10 A.M. they all returned to camp
having killed seven deer. these were all of the common fallow deer with
the long tall. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards
of 17 Inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black
tailed fallow deer of the coast. these are two very distinct speceis of
deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar or deer island which is
a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had seen
upwards of a hundred deer this morning on this island. the interior part
of the island is praries and ponds, with a heavy growth of Cottonwood ash
and willow near the river. we have seen more waterfowl on this island than
we have previously seen since we left Fort Clatsop, consisting of geese,
ducks, large swan, and Sandhill crams. I saw a few of the Canvisback duck.
the duckinmallard are the most abundant. one of the hunters killed a duck
which appeared to be the male, it was a size less than the duckinmallard.
the head neck as low as the croop, the back tail and covert of the wings
were of a fine black with a small addmixture of perple about the head and
neck, the belley & breast were white; some long feathers which lie
underneath the wings and cover the thye were of a pale dove colour with
fine black specks; the large feathers of the wings are of a dove colour.
the legs are dark, the feet are composed of 4 toes each of which there are
three in front connected by a web, the 4th is short Hat and placed high on
the heel behind the leg. the tail is composed of 14 short pointed
feathers. the beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and is 2 inches in
length, the upper chap exceeds the under one in both length and width,
insomuch that when the beak is closed the under is entirly concealed by
the upper chap. the tongue, indenture of the margin of the chaps &c.
are like those of the mallard. the nostrils are large longitudinal and
connected. a narrow strip of white garnishes the upper part or base of the
upper chap; this is succeeded by a pale skye blue colour which occupys
about one inch of the chap, is again succeeded by a transverse stripe of
white and the extremity is of a pure black. the eye is moderately large
the puple black and iris of a fine orrange yellow. the feathers on the
crown of the head are longer than those on the upper part of neck and
other parts of the head; these feathers give it the appearance of being
crested. at 1/2 after ten A.M. it became fair, and we had the canoes which
wanted repairing hailed out and with the assistance of fires which we had
kindled for the purpose dryed them sufficiently to receive the pitch which
was immediately put on them; at 3 in the evening we had them compleat and
again launched and reloaded. we should have set out, but as some of the
party whom we had permitted to hunt since we arrived have not yet returned
we determined to remain this evening and dry our beding baggage &c.
the weather being fair. Since we landed here we were visited by a large
canoe with ten natives of the quathlahpahtle nation who are numerous and
reside about seventeen miles above us on the lard. side of the Columbia,
at the entrance of a small river. they do not differ much in their dress
from those lower down and speak nearly the same language, it is in fact
the same with a small difference of accent. we saw a great number of
snakes on this island they were about the size and much the form of the
common garter snake of the Atlantic coast and like that snake are not
poisonous. they have 160 scuta on the abdomen and 71 on the tail. the
abdomen near the head, and jaws as high as the eyes, are of a bluefish
white, which as it receedes from the head becomes of a dark brown. the
field of the back and sides is black. a narrow stripe of a light yellow
runs along the center of the back, on each side of this stripe there is a
range of small transverse oblong spots of a pale brick ret which gradually
deminish as they receede from the head and disappear at the commencement
of the tail. the puple of the eye is black, with a narrow ring of white
bordering it's edge; the ballance of the iris is of a dark yellowish
brown. — the men who had been sent after the deer returned and brought
in the remnent which the Vultures and Eagles had left us; these birds had
devoured 4 deer in the course of a few hours. the party killed and brought
in three other deer a goose some ducks and an Eagle. Drewyer also killed a
tiger cat. Joseph Fields informed me that the Vultures had draged a large
buck which he had killed about 30 yards, had skined it and broken the back
bone. we came five miles only today.
[Clark, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806 This morning we Set out verry early and at 9 A.M.
arived at an old Indian Village on the N E side of Deer island where we
found our hunters had halted and left one man with the Canoes at their
Camp, they arrived last evening at this place, and Six of them turned out
very early to hunt, at 10 A.M. they all returned to camp haveing killed
Seven Deer, those were all of the Common fallow Deer with a long tail. I
measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17 inches
long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black tail Species
of the Sea coast. those are two very distinct Species of Deer. the Indians
call this large Island E-lal-lar, or Deer Island, which is a very
appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had Seen upwards of a
hundred Deer this morning on this island. the interior of this Island is a
prarie & ponds, with a heavy growth of Cotton wood, ash & willow
near the river. we have Seen more water fowl on this island than we have
previously Seen Since we left Fort Clatsop, Consisting of Geese, Ducks,
large Swan & Sand Hill crains. I saw a fiew of the Canvis back duck as
I believe. at 1/2 after 10 A.M. it became fair and we had the Canoes which
wanted repareing hauled out and with the assistance of fires which we had
kindled for the purpose dryed them Sufficiently to receve the pitch which
was imedeately put on them; at 3 in the evening we had them Compleated and
lanced and reloaded. we should have Set out but some of the party whome we
had permitid to hunt Since we arrived heve not yet returned. we determined
to remain here this evening and dry our bedding &c. the weather being
fair. Since we landed here we were visited by a large Canoe with ten
nativs of the Quathlahpohtle nation who are numerous and reside about
fourteen Miles above us on the N E. Side of the Columbia above the
Enterance of a Small river which the Indians call Chfih-w&h-na-hi-ooks.
we saw a great number of Snakes on this island; they were about the Size
and much the form of the garter snake of the U. S. the back and Sides are
black with a narrow Stripe of light yellow along the Center of the back,
with small red spots on each Side they have ____ scuta on the abdomin
& ____ on the tail and are not poisonous. The men who had been Sent
after the deer returned with four only, the other 4 haveing been eaten
entirely by the Voulturs except the Skin. The men we had been permitted to
hunt this evening killed 3 deer 4 Eagles & a Duck. the deer are
remarkably pore. Some rain in the after part of the day. we only made 5
miles to day-.
[Lewis, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806. We set out early this morning and proceeded
along the side of Deer Island; halted at 10 A.M. near its upper point and
breakfasted. here we were joined by three men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun
nation. the upper point of this Island may be esteemed the lower side or
commencement of the Columbian valley. after breakfast we proceeded on and
at the distance of 14 miles from our encampment of the last evening we
passed a large inlet 300 yds in width. this inlet or arm of the river
extends itself to the South 10 or 12 M. to the hills on that side of the
river and receives the waters of a small creek which heads with killamucks
river, and that of a bayau which passes out of the Columbia about 20 miles
above, the large Island thus formed we call wappetoe island. on this inlet
and Island the following nations reside, (viz) Clan-nah-min-namun,
Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clah-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and
Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup. the two first reside on the inlet and the others on
the bayau and island. — observed a speceies of small wild onion
growing among the moss on the rocks, they resemble the shives of our
gardens and grow remarkably close together forming a perfect turf; they
are quite as agreeably flavoured as the shives. on the North side of the
columbia a little above the entrance of this inlet a considerable river
discharges itself. this stream the natives call the Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks. it
is 150 yards wide and at present discharges a large body of water, tho
from the information of the same people it is not navigable but a short
distance in consequence of falls and rappids a tribe called the
Hul-lu-ettell reside on this river above it's entr. — at the distance
of three miles above the entrance of the inlet on the N. side behind the
lower point of an island we arrived at the village of the Cath-lah-poh-tle
with consists of 14 large wooden houses. here we arrived at 3 P.M. the
language of these people as well as those on the inlet and wappetoe Island
differs in some measure from the nations on the lower part of the river.
tho many of their words are the same, and a great many others with the
difference only of accent. the form of their houses and dress of the men,
manner of living habits customs &c as far as we could discover are the
same. their women wear their ornaments robes and hair as those do below
tho here their hair is more frequently braded in two tresses and hang over
each ear in front of the body. in stead of the tissue of bark woarn by the
women below, they wear a kind of leather breech clout about the width of a
common pocket handkerchief and reather longer. the two corners of this at
one of the narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the
other end is then brought between the legs, compressed into a narrow
foalding bundel is drawn tight and the corners a little spread in front
and tucked at the groin over and arround the part first confind about the
waist. the small robe which dose not reach the waist is their usual and
only garment commonly woarn be side that just mentioned. when the weather
is a litte warm this robe is thrown aside and the leather truss or
breech-clout constitutes the whole of their apparel. this is a much more
indecent article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the mons
venes, to which it is drawn so close that the whole shape is plainly
perceived. the floors of most of their houses are on a level with the
surface of the earth tho some of them are sunk two or 3 feet beneath. the
internal arrangement of their houses is the same with those of the nations
below. they are also fond of sculpture. various figures are carved and
painted on the peices which support the center of the roof, about their
doors and beads. they had large quantities of dryed Anchovies strung on
small sticks by the gills and others which had been first dryed in this
manner, were now arranged in large sheets with strings of bark and hung
suspended by poles in the roofs of their houses; they had also an
abundance of sturgeon and wappetoe; the latter they take in great
quantities from the neighbouring bonds, which are numerous and extensive
in the river bottoms and islands. the wappetoe furnishes the principal
article of traffic with these people which they dispose of to the nations
below in exchange for beads cloth and various articles. the natives of the
Sea coast and lower part of the river will dispose of their most valuable
articles to obtain this root. they have a number of large symeters of Iron
from 3 to 4 feet long which hang by the heads of their beads; the blade of
this weapon is thickest in the center tho thin even there. all it's edges
are sharp and it's greatest width which is about 9 inches from the point
is about 4 inches. the form is thus. this is a formidable weapon. they
have heavy bludgeons of wood made in the same form nearly which I presume
they used for the same purpose before they obtained metal. we purchased a
considerable quantity of wappetoe, 12 dogs, and 2 Sea otter skins of these
people. they were very hospitable and gave us anchovies and wappetoe to
eat. notwithstanding their hospitality if it deserves that appellation,
they are great begers, for we had scarcely finished our repast on the
wappetoe and Anchovies which they voluntarily set before us before they
began to beg. we gave them some small articles as is our custom on those
occasions with which they seemed perfectly satisfyed. we gave the 1st
Cheif a small medal, which he soon transfered to his wife. after remaining
at this place 2 hours we set out & continued our rout between this
island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle after the nation, and the Lard
shore. at the distance of 2 miles we encamped in a small prarie on the
main shore, having traveled 19 miles by estimate. the river rising fast.
great numbers of both the large and small swans, gees and ducks seen
today. the former are very abundant in the ponds where the wappetoe is
found, they feed much on this bulb. the female of the duck which was
described yesterday is of a uniform dark brown with some yellowish brown
intermixed in small specks on the back neck and breast. the garter snakes
are innumerable, & are seen entwined arround each other in large
bundles of forty or fifty lying about in different directions through the
praries. the frogs are croaking in the swams and marhes; their notes do
not differ from those of the Atlantic States; they are not found in the
salt marshes near the entrance of the river. heared a large hooting owl
hollowing this evening. saw several of the crested fishers and some of the
large and small black-birds.
[Clark, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806 we Set out very early this morning and proceeded
to the head of deer island and took brackfast. the morning was very cold
wind Sharp and keen off the rainge of Mountains to the East Covered with
snow. the river is now riseing very fast and retards our progress very
much as we are compelled to keep out at Some distance in the Curent to
clear the bushes, and fallin trees and drift logs makeing out from the
Shore. dureing the time we were at Brackfast a Canoe with three Indians of
the Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came down, one of those men was dressed in
a Salors jacket & hat & the other two had a blanket each, those
people differ but little either in their dress manners & Language from
the Clatsops & Chinnooks they reside on Wappato Inlet which is on the
S W. side about 12 miles above our encampment of the last night and is
about 2 miles from the lower point, four other Tribes also reside on the
inlet and Since which passes on the South W. Side of the Island, the first
tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon, on the Island, the
Clackster Nation on the main S. W. Shore. the next Cath-lah-cum-up,
Clhh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah and at Some distance further up is a
tribe called Cath-lah-com-mah-up Those tribes all occupie Single Villages.
we proceeded on to the lower point of the Said island accompanied by the 3
Indians, & were met by 2 canoes of nativs of the quath-lah-pah-tal who
informed us that the chanel to the N E of the Island was the proper one.
we prosued their advice and Crossed into the mouth of the
Chahwah-na-hi-ooks River which is about 200 yards wide and a great portion
of water into the columbia at this time it being high. The indians inform
us that this river is crouded with rapids after Some distance up it.
Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell Nation reside on this river. at 3
oClock P.M. we arived at the Quath lah pah tie Village of 14 Houses on
main Shore to the N E. Side of a large island. those people in their
habits manners Customs and language differ but little from those of the
Clatsops and others below. here we exchanged our deer Skins killed
yesterday for dogs, and purchased others to the Number of 12 for
provisions for the party, as the deer flesh is too poore for the Men to
Subsist on and work as hard as is necessary. I also purchased a Sea Otter
robe. we purchased wappatoe and Some pashaquar roots. gave a Medal of the
Small Size to the principal Chief, and at 5 oClock reembarked and
proceeded up on the N E. of an Island to an inlet about 1 mile above the
village and encamped on a butifull grassy plat, where the nativs make a
portage of their Canoes and Wappato roots to and from a large pond at a
Short dis-tance. in this pond the nativs inform us they Collect great
quantities of pappato, which the womin collect by getting into the water,
Sometimes to their necks holding by a Small canoe and with their feet
loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from the bottom from the Fibers,
and it imedeately rises to the top of the water, they Collect & throw
them into the Canoe, those deep roots are the largest and best roots.
Great numbers of the whistling Swan, Gees and Ducks in the Ponds. Soon
after we landed 3 of the nativs came up with Wappato to Sell a part of
which we purchased. they Continued but a Short time. our men are recoverey
fast. Willard quit well & Bratten much Stronger. we made 15 miles to
day only.
[Lewis, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806. We got under way very early in the morning, and
had not reached the head of the island before we were met by three men of
the Clan-nah-minna-mun nation one of whom we recognized being the same who
had accompanied us yesterday, and who was very pressing in his entreaties
that we should visit his nation on the inlet S. W. of Wappetoe island. at
the distance of about 2 M. or at the head of the quathlahpahtle island we
met a party of the Claxtars and Cathlahcumups in two canoes; soon after we
were met by several canoes of the different nations who reside on each
side of the river near this place. Wappetoe Island is about 20 miles long
and from 5 to 10 in width; the land is high and extreemly fertile and
intersected in many parts with ponds which produce great quantities of the
sagittaria Sagittifolia, the bulb of which the natives call wappetoe.
there is a heavy growth of Cottonwood, ash, the large leafed ash and sweet
willow on most parts of this island. the black alder common on the coast
has now disappeared. we passed several fishing camps on wappetoe island
and at the distance of 5 miles above quathlahpotle Island on the N. E.
side we halted for breakfast near the place we had encamped on the evening
of the 4th of November last; here we were visited by several canoes which
came off from two towns situated a little distance above us on wappetoe
Island. the 1st of these tribes about 2 miles above us call themselves
Clan-nah-quah, the other about a mile above them call themselves
Mult-no-mah. from these visiters we purchased a sturgeon and some wappetoe
and pashequa, for which we gave some small fishinghooks. these like the
natives below are great higglers in dealing. at 10 A.M. we set out and had
not proceeded far before we came to a landing place of the natives where
there were several large canoes drawn out on shore and several natives
seting in a canoe apparently waiting our arrival; they joined the fleet
and continued with us some miles. we halted a few minutes at this landing
and the Indians pointed to a village which was situated abut 2 miles from
the river behid a pond lying parallel with it on the N. E. side nearly
opposite to the Clan-nah-quah town. here they informed us that the
Sho-toes resided. here we were joined by several other canoes of natives
from the Island. most of these people accompanyed us untill 4 in the
evening when they all returned; their principal object I beive was merely
to indulge their curiossity in looking at us. they appeared very friendly,
tho most had taken the precaution to bring with them their warlike
implements. we continued our rout along the N. E. shore of the river to
the place we had halted to dine on the 4th of Novembr opposite to the
center of Immage canoe island where the Indians stole Capt. Clarks
tomahawk. here we encamped a little before sunset in a beautifull prarie
above a large pond having traveled 23 M. I took a walk of a few miles
through the prarie and an open grove of oak timber which borders the
prarie on the back part. I saw 4 deer in the course of my walk and much
appearance of both Elk and deer. Joseph feields who was also out a little
above me saw several Elk and deer but killed none of them; they are very
shye and the annual furn which is now dry and abundant in the bottoms
makes so much nois in passing through it that it is extreemly difficult to
get within reach of the game. Fends killed and brought with him a duck.
about 10 P.M. an indian alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp, he had
some conversation with the centinel and soon departed. The natives who
inhabit this valley are larger and reather better made than those of the
coast. like those people they are fond of cold, hot, & vapor baths of
which they make frequent uce both in sickness and in health and at all
seasons of the year. they have also a very singular custom among them of
baithing themselves allover with urine every morning. The timber and
apearance of the country is much as before discribed. the up lands are
covered almost entirely with a heavy growth of fir of several speceis like
those discribed in the neighbourhood of Fort Clatsop; the white cedar is
also found hereof large size; no white pine nor pine of any other kind. we
had a view of mount St. helines and Mount Hood. the 1st is the most noble
looking object of it's kind in nature. it's figure is a regular cone. both
these mountains are perfectly covered with snow; at least the parts of
them which are visible. the highlands in this valley are rolling tho by no
means too steep for cultivation they are generally fertile of a dark rich
loam and tolerably free of stones. this valley is terminated on it's lower
side by the mountanous country which borders the coast, and above by the
rainge of mountains which pass the Columbia between the great falls and
rapids of the Columbia river. it is about 70 miles wide on a direct line
and it's length I beleive to be very extensive tho how far I cannot
determine. this valley would be copetent to the mantainance of 40 or 50
thousand souls if properly cultivated and is indeed the only desireable
situation for a settlement which I have seen on the West side of the Rocky
mountains.
[Clark, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806 we got under way verry early and had not proceeded
to the head of the island before we met with the three men of the
Clan-nar-min-a-mon's who met us yesterday brackfast at the upper point of
the Island we met Several of the Clackstar and Cath-lah-cum-up in two
canoes. Soon after we were overtaken by Several Canoes of different tribes
who reside on each Side of the river the three above Tribes and the
Cldh-in-na-ta cath-lahnah-qui-up & Cath-lah-com-mah-tup reside on each
Side of Wappato inlet and back of Wappato Island which Island is formed by
a Small Chanel which passes from the Lower part of Image Canoe Island into
an inlet which makes in from the S W. Side, and receves the water of a
Creek which heads with the Kil a mox River. this wappato Island is about
18 or 20 Miles long and in places from 6 to 10 miles wide high &
furtile with ponds on different parts of it in which the nativs geather
Wappato. nearly opposit the upper point of the Isld. behing which we
encamped last night, or on the Wappato Isld. is Several Camps of the
nativs catching Sturgion. about 5 miles Still higher up and on the N E.
Side we halted for brackfast at the place which We had encamped the 4th of
November last. here we were visited by several canoes of Indians from two
Towns a Short distance above on the Wappato Island. the 1st of those
Tribes Call themselves Clan-nah-quah and Situated about 2 miles above us,
the other about a mile above Call themselves Mult-no-mah we purchased of
those visitors a Sturgion and Some Wappato & quarmarsh roots for which
we gave Small fishing hooks. at 10 a.m. we Set out and had not proceeded
far before we came to a landing place where there was Several large canoes
hauled up, and Sitting in a canoe, appearantly waiting our arival with a
view to join the fleet indian who was then along Side of us. this man
informed he was a Shoto and that his nation resided a little distance from
the river. we landed and one of the indians pointed to the Shoto village
which is Situated back of Pond which lies parrelal with the river on the N
E. Side nearly opposit the Clan-nah quah village. here we were also joined
by Several Canoes loaded with the natives from the Island who Continued to
accompany us untill about 4 oClock when they all returned and we proceeded
on to the place the Indians Stole my Tomahawk 4th Novr. last and Encamped
in a Small Prarie above a large Pond on N. E and opposit the Center of
image Canoe Island. capt Lewis walked out and Saw Several deer. Jo. Field
Shot at Elk he killed and brought in a fine duck. Soon after I had got
into bead an Indian came up alone in a Small Canoe. Those tribes of
Indians who inhabit this vally differ but little in either their dress,
manners, habuts and language from the Clat Sops Chinnooks, and others on
the Sea coast. they differ in a fiew words and a little in the accent. The
men are Stouter and much better formed than those of the Sea Coast. more
of their womin ware their hair braded in two tresses and hang over each
ear. in Stead of the tissue of bark worn by the women below, they ware a
kind of leather breech clout as before described as worn by the Womin at
the enterance of Lewis's river-the width of a Common pocket Handkerchief
or Something Smaller and longer. the two Corners of this at one of the
narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other Side is
then brought between their legs, Compressed into a narrow folding bundle
is drawn tight, and the Corners a little Spred in front tucked at the ends
over and around the part first confined about the Waiste. a Small roab
which does not reach the Waiste is their usial and only garment commonly
worn besides this just mentioned. when the weather is a little worm the
roab is thrown aside, and the latter truss or breach clout constitutes the
whole of their apparreal. this is a much more indesant article than the
tissue of bark, and bearly covers the Mons versus, to which it is drawn So
close that the whole Shape is plainly perseived. The Houses are Similar to
those already descrbed. they are fond of Sculpture. various figures are
carved and painted on the pieces which Support the Center of the roof
about their dotes and beads. They are well Supplied with anchoves Sturgion
and Wappato. The latter furnishes the principal article of traffic with
those Tribes which they despose of to the nativs below in exchange for
beeds, Cloath and Various articles. the nativs of the Sea coast and lower
part of this river will dispose of their most valueable articles to obtain
this root. I saw in Several houses of the Cath lah poh tie Village large
Symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hangs by the heads of their
beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the Center tho thin even
there, all it's edges are Sharp and its greatest width which is about 9
inches from the point, is about 4 inches. the form is this this is a
formable weapon. they have heavy bludgeons of wood made in the Same form
nearly which I prosume they use for the Same purpose before they obtained
metal. we made 22 Miles only to day the wind and a Strong current being
against us all day, with rain. discovered a high mountain S E. Covered
with Snow which we call Mt. Jefferson.
[Lewis, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806 We set out early this morning and proceeded untill
8 A.M. when we Landed on the N. side opposite one large wooden house of
the Shah-ha-la nation and took breakfast. when we decended the river in
November last there were 24 other lodges formed of Straw and covered with
bark near this house; these lodges are now distroyed and the inhabitants
as the indians inform us have returned to the great rapids of this river
which is their permanent residence; the house which remains is inhabited;
soon after we landed two canoes came over from this house with 4 men and a
woman. they informed us that their relations who were with them last fall
usuly visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting deer and Elk
and collecting wappetoe and that they had lately returned to the rapids I
presume to prepare for the fishing season as the Salmon will begin to run
shortly. — this morning we overtook the man who had visited our camp
last night he had a fine sturgeon in his canoe which he had just taken.
the Sagittaria Sagittifolia dose not grow on this river above the
Columbian valley. — These indians of the rapids frequently visit this
valley at every season of the year for the purpose of collecting wappetoe
which is abundant and appears never to be out of season at any time of the
year. at 10 A.M. we resumed our march accompanyed by three men in a canoe;
one of these fellows appeared to be a man of some note among them; he was
dressed in a salor's jacket which was decorated in his own fassion with
five rows of large and small buttons in front and some large buttons on
the pocket flaps. they are remarkably fond of large brass buttons. these
people speak a different language from those below tho in their dress
habits manners &c they differ but little from the quathlahpohtles.
their women wear the truss as those do of all the nations residing from
the quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's river. they differ in the
manner of intering their dead. they lay them horizontally on boards and
cover them with mats, in a valt formed with boards like the roof of a hose
supported by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those forks.
many bodies are deposited in the same valt above ground. these are
frequently laid one on the other, to the hight of three or for corps. they
deposit with them various articles of which they die possessed, and most
esteem while living. their canoes are frequently broken up to strengthen
the vault. — these people have a few words the same with those below
but the air of the language is intirely different, insomuch, that it may
be justly deemed a different language. their women wear longer and larger
robes generally, than those below; these are most commonly made of deer
skins dressed with the hair on them. we continued our rout along the N.
side of the river passed diamond Island and whitebrant island to the lower
point of a handsom prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the Quicksand
river; here we encamped having traveled 25 miles today. a little below the
upper point of the White brant Island Seal river discharges itself on the
N. side. it is about 80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body
of water. the water is very clear. the banks are low and near the Columbia
overflow and form several large ponds. the natives inform us that it is of
no great extent and heads in the mountains just above us. at the distance
of one mile from the entrance of this stream it forks, the two branches
being nearly of the same size. they are both obstructed with falls and
innumerable rappids, insomuch that it cannot be navigated. as we could not
learn any name of the natives for this stream we called it Seal river from
the great abundance of those animals which we saw about it's entrance. we
determined to remain at our present encampment a day or two for the
several purposes of examining quicksand river making some Celestial
observations, and procuring some meat to serve us as far as the falls or
through the Western mountains where we found the game scarce as we
decended. — the three indians who accompanied us last evening encamped
a little distance above us and visited our camp where they remained untill
9 P.M. in the entrance of Seal river I saw a summer duck or wood duck as
they are sometimes called. this is the same with those of our country and
is the first I have seen since I entered the rocky mountains last summer. — our
hunters who had halted a little below Seal river in consequence of the
waves being too high for their small canoe did not join us untill after
dark. Drewyer who was out below Seal river informed us that game was very
scarce in that quarter, a circumstance which we did not expect.
[Clark, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806 we Set out this morning and proceeded untill 8
oClock when we landed on the N. Side opposit one large House of the
Shah-ha-la Nation near this house at the time we passed on the 4th of
November last was Situated 25 houses, 24 of them were built of Straw &
Covered with bark as before mentioned. those of that description are all
distroyed, the one built of wood only remains and is inhabited. we
overtook the man whome came to our Camp last night and Soon after we
landed two canoes Came over from the opposit Side with 5 men & a woman
those people informed us that their relations who was with them last fall
reside at the Great rapids, and were down with them last fall gathering
Wappato which did not grow above, and also killing deer, that they Secured
the bark of the houses which they then lived in against their return next
fall. they also inform us that their relations also visit them frequently
in the Spring to collect this root which is in great quantities on either
Side of the Columbia. at 10 A. M we proceeded on accompanied by one Canoe
and three men, one of them appeared to be a man of Some note, dressed in a
Salors jacket which had 5 rows of large & Small buttons on it. Those
people Speak a differant language from those below, with Some fiew Words
the Same, the accent entirely different. their dress and Manners appear
very Similar. the women ware the truss or breach clout and Short robes,
and men roabs only passed up on the N. Side of White brant Island near the
upper point of Which a Small river falls in about 80 yards wide and at
this time discharges a great quantity of water. the nativs inform us that
this river is very Short and heads in the range of mountains to the N E of
its enterance into the Columbia the nativs haveing no name which we could
learn for this little river we Call it Seal river from the great number of
those Animals which frequents its mouth. this river forks into two nearly
equal branches about 1 mile up and each branch is crouded with rapids
& falls. we proceed on about 2 miles above the enterance of this
Seacalf river and imedeately opposit the upper mouth of the quick Sand
river we formed a Camp in a Small Prarie on the North Side of the Columbia
where we intend to delay one or two days to make Some Selestial
observations, to examine quick sand river, and kill Some meat to last us
through the Western Mountains which Commences a fiew miles above us and
runs in a N. N. W. & S. S. E. derection. The three Indians encamped
near us and visited our fire we entered into a kind of a Conversation by
signs, of the Country and Situation of the rivers. they informed us that
Seal river headed in the mountains at no great distance. quick Sand river
was Short only headed in Mt. Hood which is in view and to which he
pointed. this is a circumstance we did not expect as we had heretofore
deemed a considerable river. Mount Hood bears East from this place and is
distant from this place about 40 miles. this information if true will
render it necessary to examine the river below on the South Side behind
the image canoe and Wappato islands for some river which must water the
Country weste of the western mountains to the Waters of California. The
Columbia is at present on a Stand and we with dificuelty made 25 miles to
day-.
[Lewis, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806. This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryar with
two men in a small canoe up quicksand river with orders to proceed as far
as he could and return this evening. we also sent a party of three hunters
over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the
entrance of the Quicksand river; the ballance of the hunters we sent out
in different directions on this side of the Columbia and employed those
about camp in making a rope of Elkskin. the Indians who encamped near us
last evening continued with us untill about midday. they informed us that
the quicksand river which we have heretofore deemed so considerable, only
extendes through the Western mountains as far as the S. Western side of
mount hood where it takes it's source. this mountain bears E from this
place and is distant about 40 miles. this information was corroborated by
that of sundry other indians who visited us in the course of the day. we
were now convinced that there must be some other considerable river which
flowed into the columbia on it's south side below us which we have not yet
seen, as the extensive valley on that side of the river lying between the
mountainous country of the Coast and the Western mountains must be watered
by some stream which we had heretofore supposed was the quicksand river.
but if it be a fact that the quicksand river heads in Mount Hood it must
leave the valley within a few miles of it's entrance and runs nearly
parallel with the Columbia river upwards. we indeavoured to ascertain by
what stream the southern portion of the Columbian valley was watered but
could obtain no satisfactory information of the natives on this head. they
informed us that the quicksand river is navigable a short distance only in
consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation inhabits it. Sergt.
Pryar returned in the evening and reported that he had ascended the river
six miles; that above the point at which it divides itself into two
channels it is about 300 yds wide tho the channel is not more than 50 yds
and only 6 ft deep. this is a large vollume of water to collect in so
short a distance; I therefore think it probable that there are some large
creeks falling into it from the S. W. the bed of this stream is formed
entirely of quicksand; it's banks are low and at preasent overflows. the
water is turbid and current rapid.the following are the courses taken by
Sergt. Pryor. S. 10° W. 1 M. to a point on the Lard. side passing a large
Island on Stard. S. 24° E. 2 m. to the head of an Island near the Lard.
shore. S 33° E. 4 m. to a stard. point passing several islands on the
Lard. side and a creek 50 yds. wide on Stard at 11/2 miles. the river from
hence appeared to bend to the East. he heard falls of water. several
different tribes informed us that it heads at Mount Hood. We were visited
by several canoes of natives in the course of the day; most of whom were
decending the river with their women and children. they informed us that
they resided at the great rapids and that their relations at that place
were much streightened at that place for the want of food; that they had
consumed their winter store of dryed fish and that those of the present
season had not yet arrived. I could not learn wheather they took the
Sturgeon but presume if they do it is in but small quantities as they
complained much of the scarcity of food among them. they informed us that
the nations above them were in the same situation & that they did not
expect the Salmon to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens
on the 2d of May. we did not doubt the varacity of these people who seemed
to be on their way with their families and effects in surch of subsistence
which they find it easy to procure in this fertile valley. — This
information gave us much uneasiness with rispect to our future means of
subsistence. above falls or through the plains from thence to the
Chopunnish there are no deer Antelope nor Elk on which we can depend for
subsistence; their horses are very poor most probably at this season, and
if they have no fish their dogs must be in the same situation. under these
circumstances there seems to be but a gloomy prospect for subsistence on
any terms; we therefore took it into serious consideration what measures
we were to pursue on this occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to
wait the arrival of the salmon as that would detain us so large a portion
of the season that it is probable we should not reach the United States
before the ice would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our
horses which we lelft in charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that
they intended passing the rocky mountains to the Missouri as early as the
season would permit them wich is as we believe about the begining of May.
should these people leave their situation near kooskooske before our
arrival we may probably find much difficulty in recovering our horses;
without which there will be but little possibility of repassing the
mountains; we are therefore determined to loose as little time as possible
in geting to the Chopunnish Village. at 3 P.M. the hunters who were sent
over the river returned having killed 4 Elk and two deer; the Elk were in
good order but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that game is very
plenty in that quarter. the hunters on this side of the river also
returned but had killed nothing; they saw a few Elk and deer. there was
also much sign of the black bear seen on the other side of the river. we
sent a party to bring in the flesh of the Elk and deer that were killed.
they did not return this evening. I purchased a canoe from an Indian today
for which I gave him six fathoms of wampum beads; he seemed satisfyed with
his bargain and departed in another canoe but shortly after returned and
canceled the bargain; took his canoe and returned the beads. this is
frequently the case in their method of traiding and is deemed fair by
them. The last evening and this morning were so cloudy that I could
neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes.
[Clark, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806 This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor, with
two men in a Small canoe up quick sand river with orders to proceed as far
as he Could and return this evening. we also Sent a party of three hunters
over the river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the
enterance of Q. Sand River; the ballance of the hunters we Sent out in
different directions on this Side of the Columbia, and employed those
about Camp in makeing a rope of Elk Skin.
The information given by the indians to us last night respecting quick
Sand river was corrobarated by Sundery other indians who visited us in the
Course of this day. we were now convinced that if there information be
just; that Some Considerable river which flowed into the Columbia on it's
South Side below us which we have not yet Seen, as the extensive vally on
that Side of the river lying between the mountanious Country of the Coast,
and the western mountains must be watered by Some Stream, which we had
heretofore Supposed was the quick Sand river. but if it be a fact that
Quick Sand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the vally within a fiew
miles of it's enterance, and runs nearly parrilal with the Columbia River
upwards. we indeavered to assertained by what Stream the South portion of
the Columbian Vally was watered, but could obtain no Satisfactory
information of the waters on this head. they inform us that the quick Sand
river is not naviagable any distance in consequence of falls and rapids;
and that no nation inhabit it. Sergt. Pryor returned in the evening and
reported that he had assended the river Six Miles; that above the point
which it divides itself into two Chanels, it is about 300 yards wide tho
the Chanel is not more than 50 yards, and only 6 feet deep. the other part
of the river from 2 to 4 inches water, the bead of this river is formed
entirely of quick Sand; its banks are low and at present overflown. the
water is turbed and current rapid. — The following are the Courses
taken by Sergt. Pryor. “S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the Lard. Side
passing a large island on Stard Side. S 24° E. 2 m. to the head of the
island near the Lard Shore. S 33° E 4 m. to a Stard. point passing Several
islands on the Lard Side and a Creek 50 yards wide on the Stard. Side at
11/2 miles. the river from hence upwards bend to the East. a fall of water
heard at no great distance up this river.” Several diffirent tribes of
indians inform us that it heads at Mount Hood which is in view.
We were visited by Several Canoes of the nativs in the Course of this day;
most of whome were decending the river with their womin and children. they
inform us that they reside at the great rapids and that their relations at
that place were much Streightened for the want of food; that they had
consumed their winter Store of dryed fish and those of the present Season
had not yet arived. I could not lern whether they took Sturgion but
prosume if they do it is in but Small quantities as they complain much of
the Scercity of food among them, they informed us that the nativs above
them were in the Same Situation, and that they did not expect the Salmon
to arrive untill the full of the next moon which happens on the 2nd of
May. we did not doubt the veracity of those people who Seamed to be on
their way with their families and effects in serch of Subsistence which
they find it easy to precure in this fertile Vally-. This information givs
us much uneasiness with respect to our future means of Subsistence, above
the falls, on through the Plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are
no Deer Antilopes or Elk on which we could depend for Subsistence; their
horses are very poor most probably at this Season, and if they have no
fish their dogs must be in the Same Situation. under these circumstances
there Seams to be a gloomey prospect for Subsistence on any terms; we
therefore took it into Serious Consideration what measure we were to
pursue on this Occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to waite the
arival of the Salmon as that would detain us So long a portion of the
Season that it is probable we Should not reach the U States before the ice
would close the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our horses which
we left in charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that they intended
passing the Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as early as the Season would
permit them which is about the first of May. Should these people leave
their Situation near Kooskooske before our arival we may probably find
much dificulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be but
little possibility of repassing the Mountains; we are therefore determined
to lose as little time as possible in getting to the Cho punnish Village.
at 3 P.M. the hunters who were Sent over the river returned, haveing
Killed 4 Elk and 2 Deer; the Elk were in good order but the deer extreemly
poor. they informed us that game is very plenty in that quarter. the
hunters on this Side of the river also returned but had killed nothing;
they Saw a fiew Elk and Deer. there were also much Sign of the black bear
Seen on the other Side of the river. we Sent a party to bring in the flesh
of the Elk and Deer that were killed. they did not return this evening. We
purchased a Canoe from an Indian today for Six fathoms of white wampom; he
Seemed Satisfied with his bargin and departed in another Canoe but Shortly
after returned and canseled the bargain, took his canoe and returned the
beeds. this is frequently the case in their method of tradeing and is
deemed fair by them. The last evening and this morning were So cloudy that
we could neither obtain any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes
[Lewis, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2ed 1806. This morning we came to a resolution to remain
at our present encampment or some where in this neighbourhood untill we
had obtained as much dryed meat as would be necessary for our voyage as
far as the Chopunnish. to exchange our perogues for canoes with the
natives on our way to the great falls of the columbia or purchase such
canoes from them for Elkskins and Merchandize as would answer our
purposes. these canoes we intend exchanging with the natives of the plains
for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as many as will enable us to
travel altogether by land. at some convenient point, perhaps at the
entrence of the S. E. branch of the Columbia, we purpose sending a party
of four or five men a head to collect our horses that they may be in
readiness for us by our arrival at the Chopunnish; calculating by thus
acquiring a large stock of horses we shall not only sucure the means of
transporting our baggage over the mountains but that we will also have
provided the means of subsisting; for we now view the horses as our only
certain resource for food, nor do we look forward to it with any
detestation or borrow, so soon is the mind which is occupyed with any
interesting object reconciled to it's situation. The men who were sent in
quest of the Elk and deer that were killed yesterday returned at 8 A.M.
this morning. we now enformed the party of our intention of laying in a
store of meat at this place, and immediately dispatched two parteis
consisting of nine men to the opposite side of the river. five of those we
sent below the Quicksand river and 4 above. we also sent out three others
on this side, and those who remained in camp were employed in collecting
wood making a scaffoald and cuting up the meat in order to dry it. about
this time several canoes of the natives arrived at our camp and among
others one from below which had on board eight men of the Shah-ha-la
nation these men informed us that 2 young men whom they pointed out were
Cash-hooks and resided at the falls of a large river which discharges
itself into the Columbia on it's South side some miles below us. we
readily prevailed on them to give us a sketch of this river which they
drew on a mat with a coal. it appeared that this river which they called
Mult-no-mah discharged itself behind the Island which we called the image
canoe Island and as we had left this island to the S. both in ascending
and decending the river we had never seen it. they informed us that it was
a large river and run a considerable distance to the South between the
mountains. Capt. Clark determined to return and examine this river
accordingly he took a party of seven men and one of the perogues and set
out 1/2 after 11 A.M., he hired one of the Cashhooks, for a birning glass,
to pilot him to the entrance of the Multnomah river and took him on board
with him. in their manners dress language and stature these people are the
same with the quathlahpohtle nation and others residing in the
neighbourhood of wappetoe Island. near the entrance of multnomah river a
considerable nation resides on the lower side of that stream by the same
name. as many as ten canoes with natives arrived at our camp in the course
of the day; most of them were families of men women and children decencing
the river. they all gave the same account of the scarcity of provision
above. I shot my air gun, with which they were much astonished. one family
consisting of ten or twelve persons remained near us all night. they
conducted themselves in a very orderly manner. the three hunters on this
side of the river returned in the evening they had killed two deer, tho
they were so poor and at such a distance from camp that they brought in
their skins only. the night and morning being cloudy I was again
disappointed in making the observations I wished.
Fir is the common growth of the uplands, as is the cottonwood, ash; large
leafed ash and sweet willow that of the bottom lands. the huckleburry,
shallon, and the several evergreen shrubs of that speceis which bear
burries have seased to appear except that speceis which has the leaf with
a prickly margin. among the plants of this prarie in which we are encamped
I observe the passhequo, Shannetahque, and compound firn the roots of
which the natives eat; also the water cress, strawburry, flowering pea not
yet in blume, the sinquefoil, narrow dock, sand rush which are luxuriant
and abundant in the river bottoms; a speceis of the bearsclaw of which I
preserved a specemine it is in blume. the large leafed thorn has also
disappeared. the red flowering currant is found here in considerable
quantities on the uplands. the hunters inform me that there are extensive
praries on the highlands a few miles back from the river on this side. the
land is very fertile.
[Clark, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2nd 1806 This morning we came to a resolution to remain at
our present encampment or Some where in this neighbourhood untill we had
obtained as much dried meat as would be necessary for our voyage as far as
the Chopunnish. to exchange our large Canoes for Small ones with the
nativs on our way to the great Falls of the Columbia or purchase Such
canoes from them for Elk skins and Merchindize as would answer our
purposes. these canoes we intend exchangeing with the nativs of the Plains
for horses as we proceed untill we obtain as maney as will enable us to
travel altogether by land. at Some convenient point, perhaps at the
enterance of Lewis's River we intend Sending a party of 4 or 5 men ahead
to Collect our horses that they may be in readiness for us by our arrival
at the Chopunnish; Calculating by thus acquireing a large Stock of horses
we shall not only Secure the means of transporting our baggage over the
Mountains, but that we also have provided the means of Subsisting; for we
now view the horses as our only Certain resource for food, nor do we look
foward to it with any detestation or horrow, So Soon is the Mind which is
occupied with any interesting object, reconsiled to it's Situation. The
men who went in quest of the Elk and Deer which were killed yesterday
returned at 8 A.M. this morning. we now informed the party of our
intention of laying in a Store of meat at this place, and imediately
dispatched two parties Consisting of nine men to the opposit Side of the
river. 5 of them below and 4 above quick Sand River. we also Sent out 3
others on this Side, and those who remained in Camp were employd in
Collecting wood makeing a Scaffold and Cutting up the meat in order to dry
it. about this time Several Canoes of the nativs arived at our Camp among
others two from below with Eight men of the Shah-ha-la Nation those men
informed us that they reside on the opposit Side of the Columbia near Some
pine trees which they pointed to in the bottom South of the Dimond Island,
they Singled out two young men whome they informed us lived at the Falls
of a large river which discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South
Side Some Miles below us. we readily provailed on them to give us a Sketch
of this river which they drew on a Mat with a coal, it appeared that this
river which they Call Mult-no'-mah discharged itself behind the Island we
call the image Canoe island, and as we had left this Island to the South
both in decending & assending the river we had never Seen it. they
informed us that it was a large river and runs a Considerable distance to
the South between the Mountains. I deturmined to take a Small party and
return to this river and examine its Size and Collect as much information
of the nativs on it or near its enterance into the Columbia of its extent,
the Country which it waters and the nativs who inhabit its banks &c. I
took with me Six Men. Thompson J. Potts, Peter Crusat, P. Wiser, T. P.
Howard, Jos. Whitehouse & my man York in a large Canoe, with an Indian
whome I hired for a Sun glass to accompany me as a pilot. at half past 11
A.M. I Set out, and had not proceeded far eer I saw 4 large Canoes at Some
distance above decending and bending their Course towards our Camp which
at this time is very weak Capt. Lewis haveing only 10 men with him. I
hisitated for a moment whether it would not be advisable for me to return
and delay untill a part of our hunters Should return to add more Strength
to our Camp. but on a Second reflection and reverting to the precautions
always taken by my friend Capt Lewis on those occasions banished all
apprehensions and I proceeded on down. at 8 miles passed a village on the
South side at this place my Pilot informed me he resided and that the name
of his tribe is Ne-cha-co-lee, this village is back or to the South of
Dimond island, and as we passed on the North Side of the island both
decending & assending did not See or know of this Village. I proceeded
on without landing at this village. at 3 P.M. I landed at a large double
house of the Ne-er-choki-oo tribe of the Shah-ha-la Nation. at this place
we had Seen 24 aditional Straw Huts as we passed down last fall and whome
as I have before mentioned reside at the Great rapids of the Columbia. on
the bank at different places I observed Small Canoes which the women make
use of to gather Wappato & roots in the Slashes. those Canoes are from
10 to 14 feet long and from 18 to 23 inches wide in the widest part
tapering from the center to both ends in this form and about 9 inches deep
and So light that a woman may with one hand haul them with ease, and they
are Sufficient to Carry a woman an Some loading. I think 100 of those
canoes were piled up and Scattered in different directions about in the
Woods in the vecinity of this house, the pilot informed me that those
Canoes were the property of the inhabitents of the Grand rapids who used
them ocasionally to gather roots. I entered one of the rooms of this house
and offered Several articles to the nativs in exchange for Wappato. they
were Sulkey and they positively refused to Sell any. I had a Small pece of
port fire match in my pocket, off of which I cut a pece one inch in length
& put it into the fire and took out my pocket Compas and Set myself
doun on a mat on one Side of the fire, and a magnet which was in the top
of my ink Stand the port fire cought and burned vehemently, which changed
the Colour of the fire; with the Magnit I turned the Needle of the Compas
about very briskly; which astonished and alarmed these nativs and they
laid Several parsles of Wappato at my feet, & begged of me to take out
the bad fire; to this I consented; at this moment the match being
exhausted was of course extinguished and I put up the magnet &c. this
measure alarmed them So much that the womin and children took Shelter in
their beads and behind the men, all this time a very old blind man was
Speaking with great vehemunce, appearently imploreing his gode. I lit my
pipe and gave them Smoke & gave the womin the full amount of the roots
which they had put at my feet. they appeared Somewhat passified and I left
them and proceeded on on the South Side of Image Canoe Island which I
found to be two Islands hid from the opposit Side by one near the Center
of the river. the lower point of the upper and the upper point of the
lower cannot be Seen from the North Side of the Columbia on which we had
passed both decending and ascending and had not observed the apperture
between those islands. at the distance of 13 Miles below the last village
and at the place I had Supposed was the lower point of the image Canoe
island, I entered this river which the nativs had informed us of, Called
Mult no mah River so called by the nativs from a Nation who reside on
Wappato Island a little below the enterance of this river. Multnomah
discharges itself in the Columbia on the S. E. and may be justly Said to
be 1/4 the Size of that noble river. Multnomah had fallen 18 inches from
it's greatest annual height. three Small Islands are situated in it's
mouth which hides the river from view from the Columbia from the enterance
of this river, I can plainly See Mt. Jefferson which is high and Covered
with snow S. E. Mt. Hood East, Mt St. Helians a high humped Mountain to
the East of Mt St. Helians. I also Saw the Mt. Raneer Nearly North. Soon
after I arived at this river an old man passed down of the Clark a'mos
Nation who are noumerous and reside on a branch of this river which
receives it's waters from Mt.,Jefferson which is emensely high and
discharges itself into this river one day and a half up, this distance I
State at 40 Miles. This nation inhabits 11 Villages their Dress and
language is very Similar to the Quath-lah-poh-tle and other tribes on
Wappato Island.
The Current of the Multnomar is as jentle as that of the Columbia glides
Smoothly with an eavin surface, and appears to be Sufficiently deep for
the largest Ship. I attempted fathom it with a Cord of 5 fathom which was
the only Cord I had, could not find bottom 1/3 of the distance across. I
proceeded up this river 10 miles from it's enterance into the Columbia to
a large house on the N E. Side and Encamped near the house, the flees
being So noumerous in the house that we could not Sleep in it. this is the
house of the Cush-hooks Nation who reside at the falls of this river which
the pilot informs me they make use of when they Come down to the Vally to
gather Wappato. he also informs me that a number of other Smaller houses
are Situated on two Bayous which make out on the S. E. Side a little below
the house. this house appears to have been laterly abandoned by its
inhabitants in which they had left Sundery articles Such as Small Canoes
mats, bladdles of Oil and baskits bowls & trenchers. and as my pilot
informed me was gorn up this to the falls to fish which is 2 days or 60
miles up. this house is 30 feet wide & presisely 40 feet long. built
in the usial form of broad boads Covered with bark.
The course and distance assending the Molt no mar R from it's enterance
into the Columbia at the lower point of the 3rd Image Canoe island. viz.
S. 30° W. 2 Miles to the upper point of a Small island in the Middle of
Moltnomar river. thence
S. 10° W. 3 miles to a Sluce 80 yards wide which devides Wappato Island
from the Main Stard. Side Shore passing a Willow point on the Lard. Side.
S. 60° E. 3 miles to a large Indian house on the Lard Side below Some high
pine land. high bold Shore on the Starboard Side. thence
S. 30° E 2 miles to a bend under the high lands on the Stard Side
miles 10 passing a Larborad point.
thence the river bends to the East of S East as far as I could See. at
this place I think the wedth of the river may be Stated at 500 yards and
Sufficiently deep for a Man of War or Ship of any burthen.
[Lewis, April 3, 1806]
Thursday April 3rd 1806. Early this morning Joseph Feilds came over and
informed me that Reubin Feilds Drewyer and himself had killed four Elk. as
the party with me were now but weak and the Indians constantly crouding
about our camp, I thought it best to send a few men to dry the meat on the
other side of the river; accordingly Sergt Pryor and two men returned with
Jos. Fields for that purpose. the hunters were ordered to continue the
chase; while the others were employed in drying the meat. I have had no
account as yet from the party below the entrance of Quicksand river. The
Indians continued to visit us today in considerable numbers most of them
were decending the river with their families. these poor people appeared
to be almost starved, they picked up the bones and little peices of refuse
meat which had been thrown away by the party. they confirm the report of
the scarcity of provision among the natives above. I observe some of the
men among them who wear a girdle arround the waist between which and the
body in front they confine a small skin of the mink or polecat which in
some measure conceals the parts of generation, they also frequently wear a
cap formed of the skin of the deer's head with the ears left on it, they
have some collars of leather wrought with porcupine quills after the
method of the Shoshonees. From this place Mount Hood bears S. 85 E.
distant 40 miles. This evening we completed drying the flesh of the Elk
which had been brought to camp. at 6 P.M. Capt. Clark returned, having
completely succeeded in his expedition. he found the entrance of the large
river of which the Indians had informed us, just at the upper part of
wappetoe Island. the following is a sketch of the rivers furnished Capt C.
by an old and inteligent Indian man.
[Clark, April 3, 1806]
Thursday April 3rd 1806 The water had fallen in the course of last night
five inches. I Set out and proceeded up a Short distance and attempted a
Second time to fathom the river with my cord of 5 fathom but could find no
bottom. the mist was So thick that I could See but a Short distance up
this river. where I left it, it was binding to the East of S. E. being
perfectly Sati'fyed of the Size and magnitude of this great river which
must Water that vast tract of Country betwen the Western range of
mountains and those on the Sea coast and as far S. as the Waters of
Callifornia about Latd. 37° North I deturmined to return. at 7 oClock A.M.
Set out on my return. the men exirted themselves and we arived at the Ne
er cho ki oo house in which the nativs were So illy disposed yesterday at
11 A.M. I entered the house with a view to Smoke with those people who
Consisted of about 8 families, finding my presence alarmed them So much
that the children hid themselves, womin got behind their men, and the men
hung their heads, I detained but a fiew minits and returnd on board the
canoe. My pilot who Continued in the Canoe informed me on my return that
those people as well as their relations were very illy disposed and bad
people. I proceeded on along the South Side met five canoes of the
Shah-ha-la Nation from the Great rapids with their wives and Children
decending the Columbia into this fertile Vally in pursute of provi-sions.
my Pilot informed me in a low voice that those people were not good, and I
did not Suffer them to come along Side of my Canoe which they appeared
anxious to do. their numbers in those canoes who appeard anxious to come
along Side was 21 men and 3 boys. at 3 P M. we arived at the residence of
our Pilot which consists of one long house with Seven appartments or rooms
in Square form about 30 feet each room opening into a passage which is
quit through the house those passages are about 4 feet in width and formed
of Wide boads Set on end in the ground and reaching to the Ruff which
Serves also as divisions to the rooms. The ground plot is in this form 1 1
1 1 is the passages. 2 2 &c. is the apartments about 30 feet square.
this house is built of bark of the White Cedar Supported on long Stiff
poles resting on the ends of broad boads which form the rooms &c. back
of this house I observe the wreck of 5 houses remaining of a very large
Village, the houses of which had been built in the form of those we first
Saw at the long narrows of the E-lute Nation with whome those people are
connected. I indeavored to obtain from those people of the Situation of
their nation, if scattered or what had become of the nativs who must have
peopled this great town. an old man who appeared of Some note among them
and father to my guide brought foward a woman who was badly marked with
the Small Pox and made Signs that they all died with the disorder which
marked her face, and which She was verry near dieing with when a Girl.
from the age of this woman this Distructive disorder I judge must have
been about 28 or 30 years past, and about the time the Clatsops inform us
that this disorder raged in their towns and distroyed their nation. Those
people Speak a different language from those below tho in their dress
habits and manners &c. they differ but little from the
Quathlahpohtles. theire women ware the truss as those do of all the
nations risideing from the quathlahpohtle to the enterance of Lewis's
river and on the Columbia above for Some distance. those people have Some
words the Same with those below but the air of their language is entirely
different, their men are Stouter and much better made, and their womin
ware larger & longer robes than those do below; those are most
commonly made of Deer Skins dressed with the hair on them. they pay great
attention to their aged Severall men and women whom I observed in this
village had arived at a great age, and appeared to be helthy tho blind. I
provailed on an old man to draw me a Sketch of the Multnomar River ang
give me the names of the nations resideing on it which he readily done,
See draft on the other Side and gave me the names Of 4 nations who reside
on this river two of them very noumerous. The first is Clark a-mus nation
reside on a Small river which takes its rise in Mount Jefferson and falls
into the Moltnomar about 40 miles up. this nation is noumerous and inhabit
11 Towns. the 2d is the Cush-hooks who reside on the N E. Side below the
falls, the 3rd is the Char-cowah who reside above the Falls on the S W.
Side neether of those two are noumerous. The fourth Nation is the
Cal-lar-po-e-wah which is very noumerous & inhabit the Country on each
Side of the Multnomar from its falls as far up as the knowledge of those
people extend. they inform me also that a high mountain passes the
Multnomar at the falls, and above the Country is an open plain of great
extent.
I purchased 5 dogs of those people for the use of their Oil in the Plains,
and at 4 P M left the Village and proceeded on to Camp where I joind Capt.
Lewis
The enterance of Multnomah river is 142 miles up the Columbia river from
its enterance into the Pacific Ocean-. in my absence and Soon after I left
camp Several Canoes of men women and Children came to the camp. and at one
time there was about 37 of those people in Camp Capt Lewis fired his Air
gun which astonished them in Such a manner that they were orderly and kept
at a proper distance dureing the time they Continued with him — as
maney as 10 Canoes arrived at Camp in the Course of this day. they all
Seem to give the Same account of the Scercity of Provisions above. one
family Continued all night and behaved themselves in a very orderly
manner.
on the 3rd Joseph Field returned from the woods and informed the Drewyer
Rubin & himself had killed four Elk. Capt L. Sent Sergt. Pryor and two
men with Joseph Field to dry the flesh of the Elk in the woods on
Scaffolds with fire. the party bilow quick Sand river did not return to
day. The Indians continue to vist our Camp in Considerable number from
above with their families. these pore people appeared half Starved. they
picked up the bones and little refuse meat which had been thrown away by
the party. Capt L had the flesh of the 4 Elk which was killed on the 1st
inst. dried — Some of the men of the nativs who visited Capt Lewis
wore a girdle, with a Small Skin in front and a Cap of the Skin of the
deers head &c.
[Lewis, April 4, 1806]
Friday April 4th 1806. This morning early we sent Sergt. Ordway in Surch
of Sergt. Gass and party below the entrance of the Quicksand river fom
whom we have yet had no report. in the course of a few hours both parties
returned. Sergt. Gass and party brought the flesh of a bear and some
venison. they informed us that they had killed an Elk and six deer tho the
flesh of the greater part of those animals was so meagre that it was unfit
for uce and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins who had
killed the bear, found the bed of another in which there were three young
ones; and requested to be permitted to return in order to waylay the bed
and kill the female bear; we permitted him to do so; Sergt. Gass and
Windsor returned with him. Several parties of the natives visit us today
as usual both from above and below; those who came from above were moving
with their families, and those from below appeared to be empeled mearly by
curiossity to see us. About noon we dispatched Gibson Shannon Howard and
Wiser in one of the light canoes, with orders to proceed up the Columbia
to a large bottom on the South side about six miles above us and to hunt
untill our arrival. late in the evening Joseph Fields and Drewyer
returned. they had killed two deer yesterday, and informed us that the
meat would be dryed by midday tomorrow. we directed Drewyer and the two
Feildses to ascend the river tomorrow to join Gibson and party, and hunt
untill our arrival. this evening being fair I observed time and distance
of Ys Eastern Limb from regulus with Sextant. k West.
[Clark, April 4, 1806]
Friday April 4th 1806. Mouth of quick Sand River This morning early we
Sent Sergt. Ordway in Serch of Sergt. Gass and party below the enterance
of quick Sand river from whome we have yet had no report. in the Course of
a fiew hours both parties returned. Sergt. Gass and party brought the
Flesh of a Bear, and Some venison. they informed us they had killed an Elk
and Six Deer tho the flesh of the greater part of those Animals were So
Meagre that it was unfit for uce, and they had therefore left it in the
woods. Collins who had killed the Bear, found the bead of another in which
there was three young ones; and requested to be permited to return in
order to waylay the bed and kill the female bear; we permited him to do
So; Sergt. Gass and Windser returned with him. Several parties of the
nativs visit us to day as usial both from above and below; those who came
from above were moveing with their families, and those from below appeared
to be impeled mearly by curiosity to See us. About noon we dispatched
Gibson, Shannon, Howard & Wiser in one of the light Canoes, with
orders to proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South Side
about Six Miles above us and there to hunt untill our arrival. late in the
evening Jos Fields and Drewyer returned with a load of dried meat. they
had killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat would be dryed
by Mid-day tomorrow. We directed Drewyer and Field's to assend the river
tomorrow and join Gibson & party, and hunt untill our arrival. this
evening being fair observed time and distance of moon's Eastern Limb from
regulus with Sextant * West
[Lewis, April 5, 1806]
Saturday April 5th 1806. This morning was so cloudy that I could not
obtain any lunar observations with a Aquila as I wished. Joseph Fields and
Drewyer departed this morning agreeably to their orders of last evening.
at 9 A.M. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a party to assist Sergt. Pryor in
bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had dryed. at 1 P. M the party
returned with the meat. it had been so illy dryed that we feared it would
not keep. we therefore directed it to be cut thinner and redryed over a
fire this evening, as we purpose setting out early in the morning. the
deerskins which we have had cased for the purpose of containing our dryed
meat are not themselves sufficiently dryed for that purpose, we directed
them to be dryed by the fire also. the weather has been so damp that there
was no possibility of pounding the meat as I wished. — we were visited
today by several parties of the natives as usual; they behaved themselves
in a very orderly manner. Observed Magnetic Azimuth and altitude of the
sun with Circumferenter and Sextant.
Saw the Log cock, the hummingbird, gees ducks &c today. the tick has
made it's appearance it is the same with those of the Atlantic States. the
Musquetoes have also appeared but are not yet troublesome. — this
morning at 10 OClock Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windsor they
had not succeeded in killing the female bear tho they brought the three
cubs with them. the Indians who visited us today fancyed these petts and
gave us wappetoe in exchange for them. Drewyer informed me that he never
knew a female bear return to her young when they had been allarmed by a
person and once compelled to leave them. The dogwood grows abundantly on
the uplands in this neighbourhood. it differs from that of the United
States in the appearance of it's bark which is much smoother, it also
arrives here to much greater size than I ever observed it elsewhere
sometimes the stem is nearly 2 feet in diameter. we measured a fallen tree
of fir No 1 which was 318 feet including the stump which was about 6 feet
high. this tree was only about 31/2 feet in diameter. we saw the martin,
small gees, the small speckled woodpecker with a white back, the Blue
crested Corvus, ravens, crows, eagles Vultures and hawks. the mellow bug
and long leged spider have appeared, as have also the butterfly blowing
fly and many other insects. I observe not any among them which appear to
differ from those of our country or which deserve particular notice.
[Clark, April 5, 1806]
Saturday April 5th 1806. This morning was So Cloudy that we could not
obtain any lunar observations with a Aquila as we wished.
Joseph Field & Drewrey left us this morning agreeably to their orders
of last evening. at the Same time we Sent Sergt. Ordway and five men to
assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had dried
in the woods. at 1 p.m.the party returned with the meat. it was not
Sufficiently dryed to keep. we had it cut thiner and redryed over a fire
this evening, as we purpose Setting out early in the morning. the dear
skins which we had cased for the purpose of holding our dried meat is not
Sufficently dry for that purpose, we derected them to be dried by the fire
also. the weather being So damp that there was no possibullity of pounding
the meat as I wished. — We were visited by Several parties of the
nativs to day; they behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.
Saw the Log cock, the humming bird, Geese, Ducks &c. to day. the tick
has made it's appearance it is the Same with those of the Atlantic States.
the Musquetors have also appeared, but are not yet much troublesom. — this
morning at 10 A M Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windser they had
not Succeeded in killing the female bear, tho they brought the three cub's
with them. the Indians who visited us to day fancied those Petts and gave
us wappato in exchange for them. Fir and White Cedar is the common growth
of the up lands, as is the Cotton wood, ash, large leafed Ash and Sweet
Willow that of the bottom lands. The Huckleberry, shallon, and the Several
evergreen Shrubs, of that Speces that bears berries have Seased to appear,
except that Species which has the leaf with a prickley Margin. among the
plants of this prarie in which we are encamped I observe the pashequo,
Shannetahque, and Compound firn, the root of which the nativs eate; also
the water cress, Straw berry flowering pea not yet in blume, narrow dock,
and rush which are luxuriant and abundent in the river bottoms. the large
leafed thorn has also disappeard. The red flowering Current is found here
in considerable quantities on the upland, and the Common Dog wood is found
on either Side of the river in this neighbourhood and above Multnomah
river. The Country on either Side is fertile, the bottom on the South Side
is wide and inter sperced with Small ponds in which the nativs gather
their Wappato. back of this bottom the Country rises to about 200 feet and
the Soil is very rich as that also above q Sandy river quite to the
Mountains. the Country on the N. Side from a fiew Miles above this place
as low down as the enterance of Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River rises to the
hight generally of 150 or 200 feet is tolerably leavel, thickly timbered
with Fir and White Cedar. the Soil of the richest quallity. Some Small
Praries on the bank of the river. That portion of Country below as low
down as the enterance of Cah-wah na ki ooks River is a broken rich
Country. the hills are high, the bottom lands as before mentioned and
fertile &c.The Country a fiew miles up the Multnomah River rises from
the river bottoms to the hight of from 2 to 300 feet and is rich &
fertile. Some Plains can be Seen to the N. E. of our Camp of 10 or 12
miles in Secumference The Hunters & Serjt Pryor informed us that they
had Measured a tree on the upper Side of quick Sand River 312 feet long
and about 4 feet through at the Stump.
[Lewis, April 6, 1806]
Sunday April 6th 1806. This morning we had the dryed meat secured in skins
and the canoes loaded; we took breakfast and departed at 9 A.M. we
continued up the N. side of the river nearly to the place at which we had
encamped on the 3rd of Nov. when we passed the river to the south side in
quest of the hunters we had sent up yesterday and the day before. from the
appearance of a rock near which we had encamped on the 3rd of November
last I could judge better of the rise of the water than I could at any
point below. I think the flood of this spring has been about 12 feet
higher than it was at that time; the river is here about 11/2 miles wide;
it's general width from the beacon rock which may be esteemed the head of
tide water, to the marshey islands is from one to 2 miles tho in many
places it is still wider. it is only in the fall of the year when the
river is low that the tides are persceptable as high as the beacon rock.
this remarkable rock which stands on the North shore of the river is
unconnected with the hills and rises to the hight of seven hundred feet;
it has some pine or reather fir timber on it's nothern side, the southern
is a precipice of it's whole hight. it rises to a very sharp point and is
visible for 20 miles below on the river. at the distance of ten miles from
our encampment we met with our hunters in the upper end of the bottom to
which we had directed them on the South side of the river. they had killed
three Elk this morning and wounded two others so badly that they expected
to get them. we therefore determined to encamp for the evening at this
place in order to dry the meat, in surch of which we sent a party
immediately and employed others in preparing scaffoalds and collecting
firewood &c against their return. we found some indians with our
hunters when we arrived; these people are constantly hanging about us. — As
has been before mentioned Capt C set out with a party of seven men on 2ed
inst. in surch of the entrance of the Multnomah river. he departed at 1/2
after 11 A. M and directed his course along the Southern side of the
river. at the distance of 8 miles he passed the village of the
Na-cha-co-lee tribe of the E-lute Nation; this village is not large and
being situated on the main shore opposite to and S. of the Diamond Island
it was concealed by that island from our view both ascending and decending
the Columbia as we passed near the Northern shore. Capt C. passed this
village without halting and continued his rout untill 3 P.M. when he
arrived at a large double house of the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo tribe of the
Shah'ha-la nation; at this place we had seen 24 additional straw and bark
huts as we passed down last fall, the inhabitants of which as I have
before mentioned reside at the great rapids of the Columbia river. about
this place in different directions Capt C. saw a great number of small
canoes lying scattered on the bank. these small canoes are employed by the
women in collecting wappetoe; with one of these a woman enters a pond
where the Sagitaria Sagittifolia grows frequently to her breast in water
and by means of her toes and feet breakes the bulb of this plant loos from
the parent radicle and disincumbering it from the mud it immediately rises
to the surface of the water when she seizes it and throws it into her
canoe which she always keeps convenient to her. they will remain in the
water for hours together in surch of this bulb in middle of winter. those
canoes are from 10 to 14 feet in length, from 18 to 23 inches in width
near the middle tapering or becoming narrower towards either extremity and
9 inches deep their form is thus. they are so light that a woman can draw
them over land or take them with ease through the swamps in any direction,
and are sufficient to carry a single person and several bushells of roots.
Capt. Clarks pilot informed him that the small canoes which he saw in the
vicinity of this lodge were the property of the Shah-ha-las who used them
occasionally when they visit this neighbourhood for the purpose of
collecting roots. while at this place Capt C. entered one of the
appartments of the house and offered several articles to the natives in
exchange for wappetoe, they appeared to be in an ill humour and positively
refused to let him have any. Capt. C. sat himself down near the fire and
having a part of a portfire match in his pocket cut of a small peice of it
and threw it in the fire; at the same time he took out his pocket compass
and by means of a magnet which he had in the top of his inkstand he turned
the nedle of the compass about very briskly; the match took fire and
birned vehemently; the indians astonished and allarmed at these
exhibitions, ran and brought several parcels of wappetoe and laid at his
feet and begged that he would put out the bad fire; to this he consented;
at this moment the match being exhausted was of course extenguished and he
put up his compass & magnet. they were now much more complisant, tho
the women and children were yet so much allarmed that they took refuge in
their beads and behing the men who were seting opposite to Capt. C. during
the whole of this farcical seen an old man who was seting by continued to
speak with great vehemence apparently imploring his god for protection.
Capt. C. gave them an adiquate compensation for their roots and having
lighted his pipe smoaked with the men. they appeared in a great measure to
get the better of their allarm and he left them and continued his rout
along the south side of Image canoe Island which he found to be three
islands, the one in the center concealing the apperture between the two
others in such manner that from the north side of the river where we have
previously passed they all appeared to form one island only. at the
distance of 13 miles below the village just mentioned, and at the lower
point of what we have heretofore deemed the image canoe Island, Capt C.
entered the Multnomah river so called by the natives from a nation of that
name who reside on wappetoe island a little below the entrance of this
river? Multnomah river discharges itself on the S. side of the Columbia
140 miles above the entrance of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, and may
be justly esteemed one fourth of that noble river. Capt. C. found that
this river had attained it's greatest annual hight and had now fallen
about 18 inches. it has three small islands in it's mouth which conceal
the river from the view of those who pass with the stream of the Columbia.
from the Columbia at the entrance of the Multonomah river Mount Jefferson
bears S. E. this is a noble mountain. I think equally as high as Mount St.
Helines but it's distance being much greater than that of the latter, so
great a portion of it dose not appear above the range of mountains which
lie betwen boath those stupendious mountains and this point of view. like
mount St. Heleans it's figure is a regular cone and is covered with
eternal snow. M. St. Heleans from the same point boar N ____, Mount Hood
due East, and Mount Raniei nearly North. there is also a very high humped
mountain a little to the East of Mount St. Heleans which appears to lie in
the same chain with those conic pointed mountains before mentioned. soon
after Capt Clark entered the Multnomah river he was met by an old Indian
man alone in a canoe decending the river, the pilot had some conversation
with him and informed Capt. C. that this was a man of the Clark-a'-mas
nation who are numerous and inhabit eleven vilages on either side of a
river of the same name which has it's source in Mount Jefferson and after
tranversing a woody and fertile country discharges itself into the
Multnomah river on it's E. side at the distance of about 40 miles from
it's junction with the Columbia. the Clarkamas river is navigable for
canoes a great distance, from the Indian account almost to the foot of
mount, Jefferson. the nation who inhabit it's borders live principally on
fish with which this stream abounds and also on roots which they procure
on it's borders. they sometimes also come down to the Multnomah and
Columbia in surch of Wappatoe. they do not differ essentially in their
language dress &c from the Quathlahpohtles and others in the vicinity
of wappetoe island. The current of the Multnomah river is as gentle as
that of the Columbia, glides smoothly with an even surface, and appears to
possess sufficient debth for the largest ship. Capt. C. attempted to sound
it with a cord of 5 fathoms which was the longest in his possession but
could not find bottom at this debth for at least one third of the width of
the river. Capt. C. ascended this river ten miles to a large wood house on
the East side of the river, near which he encamped for the evening; the
house being infested with such swarms of flees that they could not remain
in it. this his guide informed him was the house of the Cush-hooks nation
who reside just below the falls of the Multnomah river and who
occasionally reside at this place for the purpose of collecting wappetoe.
at present this house appeared to have been lately abandoned by the
natives who had left therein exposed to every visiter various articles
such as small canoes, mats, bladders of train oil, baskets, bowls and
trenchers. this is a strong evidence of the honesty of the natives with
rispect to the property of each other, but they have given us several
evidences that they do not pay the same rispect to the property of white
men. his guide further informed him that there were a number of small
houses belonging to the last mentioned nation situated on two bayous which
make out of the river a little above this large hose on the East side;
that the inhabitants of these as well as those of the large house had gone
up to the falls of the Multnomah river for the purpose of taking fish.
these falls are situated at the distance of 2 days travel from the
junction of the Multnomah and Columbia rivers agreeably to the Indian
account which we have estimated at 60 miles or 20 m. above the entrance of
Clarkamus river. Capt C. took the dementions of the hose of the
Ne-mal-quin-ner tribe of the Cushhooks nation near which he encamped on
the 2ed inst. and found it presisely thirty feet by 40 squar constructed
with broad boards and covered with the bark of the white cedar or
arborvita; the floor is on a level with the surface of the earth and the
internal arrangement is similar to those of the natives of the Sea coast. — these
people carry on a trafic with the Killamucks of the coast across the
mountains and by way of the Killamucks river from the Killamucks they
obtain their train oil. The courses and distances taken by Capt. Clark in
ascending the Multnomah river from it's junction with the Columbia river,
commencing at the lower extremity of the Image canoe Islands are as
follows. (viz) S. 30° W. 4 m. to the upper point of a small island in the
center of Multnomah river. thence S 10° W. 3 m. to a sluce 80 yds. wide on
Stard. which dividing wappetoe Island from the main land discharges itself
into wappetoe inlet passed a willow point on Lard. S. 60° W. 3 ms. to a
large indian house on the Lard. side, just below some high fir land the
shore is bold and high on Stard. side. S 30° E. 2 ms. to the center of a
bend under The highlands on Stard. side, passing a Lard. point; from hence
the river directed it's course to the E. of S. E. as far as Capt. C. could
perceive it. — at this place the Multnomah river is 500 yds. wide and
sufficiently deep to admit the largest ship. the river appears to be
washing away it's banks in some places, and has more sandbars and willow
points than the Columbia.On the morning of the 3rd inst. Capt. Clark
observed that the water had fallen in the course of the night about 5
inches. he set out early and proceeded up the river a short distance few
miles and attempted a second time to fathom it but with the same success
as before he could nt find bottom with his cord of 5 fathoms for the
distance of half the width of the stream. Capt C. having fully satisfyed
himself of the magnitude of this great river he set out on his return at 7
A.M. I have but little doubt but that this river waters a vast tract of
country lying between the Western mountains and the mountainous country of
the sea coast extending as far south as the waters of the gulph of
Callifornia or about Latitude 37° North. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. arrived at
the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo house where he had allarmed the inhabtants yesterday.
he halted here a few minutes to smoke with these people who consisted of
eight families. he found that his presents excited fresh allarm
particularly among the women and children who hid themselves and took
refuge behind the men as yesterday; the men held down their heads and
seemed much conserned; he therefore remained in the house but a few
minutes, returned to his canoe and pursued his rout. his pilot now
informed him that these people as well as their relations at the falls of
the Columbia were illy disposed bad men. soon after he set out he met five
canoes on board of which there were as many families of the Shah-ha-la
nation decending the river in surch of subsistence. they were extreemly
anxious to come along side, but he forbid their doing so as their number
was too considerable there being 21 men on board these canoes. his pilot
told him that they were mischevous bad men. at 3 P.M. he arrived at the
present residence of his pilot on the South side of the river opposite the
Diamond Island. here he halted about an hour he found this house very
large; it consisted of seven appartments in one range above ground each
about 30 feet square. the entrances to these appartments were from
passages which extended quite across the house, about 4 feet wide and
formed like the walls of the hose of broad boards set on end extending
from beneath the floor to the roof of the house. the apperture or hole
through which they enter all those wooden houses are remarkably small not
generally more than 3 feet high and about 22 inches wide. the ground plot
of the Nechecolee house is thus 1 1 1 1 the passages of 4 feet and 2 2
&c. the appartments of 30 feet square. this house is covered with the
bark of the white cedar, laid on in a double course, supported by rafters
and longitudinal round poles attatched to the rafters with cores of this
bark. the peices of the cedar bark extend the whole length of the side of
the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches. at the distance of 18
inches transverse splinters of dry fir is inserted through the cedar bark
in order to keep it smooth and prevent it's edges from colapsing by the
heat of the sun; in this manner the natives make a very secure light and
lasting roof of this bark. in the vicinity of this house Capt. Clark
observed the remains of five other large houses which appeared to have
been sunk in the ground several feet and built after the method of those
of the Elutes nation at the great narrows of the columbia with whom these
people claim affinity. their language is the same with the Elutes, tho in
their habits, dress manners &c they differ but little from the
Quathlahpohtles and others in this neighborhood. they make use of some
words common to their neighbours but the air of their language is entirely
different. they are much better formed and their men larger than the
nations below. their women wear larger and longer robes which are made
principally of deerskins dressed in the hair. they pay great rispect to
their aged persons. Capt. C. observed several persons of both sexes who
appeared to have arrived to great age yet they appeared perfectly healthy
tho most of them perfectly blind. the loss of sight I have observed to be
more common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among any
people I ever observed. they have almost invariably soar eyes at all
stages of life. the loss of an eye is very common among them; blindness in
perdsons of middle age is by no means uncommon, and it is almost
invariably a concommitant of old age. I know not to what cause to
attribute this prevalent deficientcy of the eyes except it be their
exposure to the reflection of the sun on the water to which they are
constantly exposed in the occupation of fishing. Capt. C. enquired of the
Nechecole the cause of the decline of their village. an old man who
appeared to be of some note among them and the father of his guide brought
forward a woman who was much marked with the small pox, and made signs
that the inhabitants of those houses which he saw in ruins had all died
with the disorder which marked the face of the woman and with which this
woman was very near dying when a girl. from the apparent age of the woman
Capt. C. supposed that it was about 28 or 30 years since this disorder had
prevailed among these people. this is about the time which we have
supposed that it prevailed among the Clatsops and others of the coast.
Capt C. now prevailed on this old man to give him a sketch of the
Multnomah river it's branches and the position and names of the Indian
nations residing thereon this the old man son executed with his finger in
the dust. (see scetch inserted on the 3rd inst.). he informed that the
Cush-hooks and Char-cow-ah nations who reside at the falls of that river
were not numerous; but that the Cal-lah-po-e-wah nation who inhabited both
sides of this river above the falls as far as it was known to himself or
his nation were very numerous. that the country they inhabited was level
and wholy destitute of timber. that a high range of mountains passed the
Multnomah river at the falls, on the upperside of which the country was
one vast plain. the nations who inhabit this country reside on the rivers
and subsist like those of the Columbia on fish and roots principally. Capt
C. bought five dogs of these people and set out for my camp at 5 P.M.
where he arrived a little before dark, on the evening of the third. — the
party whom we sent for the flesh of the Elk which Shannon had killed
returned in the evening with that of four, one had by some mistake been
omitted. Drewyer and shannon found the two wounded Elk and had killed
them. we set all hands at work to prepare the meat for the saffoald they
continued their operations untill late at night. we directed Shannon to go
out early in the morning with a party to bring in the Elk which had been
left last evening in mistake. we also directed Drewyer and the two
Feildses to ascend the river early in the morning to a small bottom a few
miles above and hunt untill our arrival.
[Clark, April 6, 1806]
Sunday April 6th 1806. Two Indians Came last night very late to our Camp
and continued all night. early we had all the meat packed up and our
Canoes loaded ready for to Set out and after an early brackfast at which
time all things were ready and we Set out and proceeded to the Camp of
Gibson & party about 9 miles, they had killed 3 Elk at no great
distance and Wounded two others so badly that we expect to precure them.
Sent a party of Six men with Shannon who had killed the Elk to bring in
the Elk, and formed a Camp, near which we had a Scaffold made ready to dry
the meat as Soon as it Should arive. Reubin Field killed a bird of the
Quail kind or Class which was whistleing near our Camp it is larger than
the quail or partridge as they are Called Kentucky and Virginia. it's form
is presisely that of our partridge tho its plumage differs in every part.
the upper part of the head, Sides and back of the neck, including the
Croop and about of the under part of the body is of a bright dove coloured
blue, under neath the under beak, as high as the lower edge of the eye,
and back as far as the hinder part of the eyes and thence comeing down to
a point in the front of the neck about 2/3rd of it's length downwards, is
of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the dove colour there
runs a narrow Stripe of pure white. the ears are covered with some coarse
dark brown feathers. just at the base of the under chap there is a narrow
transvirce Stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long round
feathers extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and are of a
black Colour. the length of these feathers is 21/2 inches. one overlais
and Conseals the other which is Somewhat Shorter and Seems to be raped in
the plumage of that in front which folding backwards colapses behing and
has a round appearance. the tail is composed of 12 dark brown feathers of
nearly equal length. the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown
& are reather Short in purpotion to the body of the bird. in this
respect very Similar to the partridge. the covert of the wings and back
are of a dove Colour with a Slight admixture of redish brown. a wide
Stripe which extends from Side to Side of the body and occupies the lower
region of the breast is beautifully varigated with the brick red white
& black which perdominates in the order they are mentioned and the
Colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are covered with feathers
as low as the Knee; these feathers are of dark brown tiped with a dark
brick red as are also those between and about the joining of the legs with
the body. the foot is presisely that of the Common partridge except that
they are as also the legs white. the upper beak is Short, wide at it's
base, black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely pointed. it
exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white colour, also
convex under neath and obtusely pointed. the nostrils are remarkably
Small, placed far back and low down on the Sides of the beak. they are
covered by a thin proterant elastic, black leather like Substance. the
eyes are of a uniform pierceing black colour. this is a most butifull bird
I preserved the Skin of this bird retaining the wings feet & head
which I hope will give a just Idea of the bird. it's loud note is Single
and Consists of a loud Squall, intirely different from the whistling of
our partridge or quailes. it has a chiping note when allarmed like our
partridge. — to day there was a Second of those birds killed which
presisely resembles that just discribed. I believe those to be the mail
bird the female, if so, I have not yet Seen..
at 6 P.M. Shannon and party returned with the flesh of five Elk. the two
he had wounded in the morning he found dead near the place he had Shot
them. we had the meat cut into thin pices and Scaffored with a fire under
it to dry out, which we expect in the course of the night Can be effected.
four Indians from the great rapids visited us to day and Continued all
day. they give the Same account of the Scercity of provisions above the
falls as has already been given by others. This Supply of Elk I think by
useing economey and in addition of roots and dogs which we may probably
precure from he Nativs on Lewis's river will be Sufficient to last us to
the Chopunnish where we Shall Meet with our horses-. and near which place
there is Some deer to be precured.
Frazer killed a pheasent of the Common kind. Jos. Field killed a vulture
of that Speces already discribed. in the evening late the Indians left us
and returned to their village. we detected that fires be kept under the
meat all night. and tha Drewyer and the two Fields proceed on to the next
bottom and hunt untill we Should arive. 9 miles
[Lewis, April 7, 1806]
Monday April 7th 1806. This morning early the flesh of the remaining Elk
was brought in and Drewyer with the Feildses departed agreeably to the
order of the last evening. we employed the party in drying the meat today
which we completed by the evening, and we had it secured in dryed Elkskins
and put on board in readiness for an early departure. we were visited
today by several parties of indians from a village about 8 miles above us
of the Sahhalah nation. I detected one of them in steeling a peice of lead
and sent him from camp. I hope we have now a sufficient stock of dryed
meat to serve us as far the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a few dogs
horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish we can
procure a few deer and perhaps a bear or two for the mountains. last
evening Reubin Fields killed a bird of the quail kind it is reather larger
than the quail, or partridge as they are called in Virginia. it's form is
precisely that of our patridge tho it's plumage differs in every part. the
upper part of the head, sides and back of the neck, including the croop
and about 1/3 of the under part of the body is of a bright dove coloured
blue, underneath the under beak, as high as the lower edge of the eyes,
and back as far as the hinder part of the eyes and thence coming down to a
point in front of the neck about two thirds of it's length downwards, is
of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red and the dove colour there
runs a narrow stripe of pure white. the ears are covered with some coarse
stiff dark brown feathers. just at the base of the under chap there is
narrow transverse stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long
round feathers extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and
are of a black colour. the longest of these feathers is two inches and an
half, it overlays and conceals the other which is somewhat shorter and
seems to be raped in the plumage of that in front which folding backwards
colapses behind and has a round appearance. the tail is composed of twelve
dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. the large feathers of the
wings are of a dark brown and are reather short in proportion to the body
of the bird in that rispect very similar to our common partridge. the
covert of the wings and back are of a dove colour with a slight admixture
of redish brown. a wide stripe which extends from side to side of the body
and occupyes the lower region of the breast is beautifully variagated with
the brick red white and black which pedominate in the order they are
mentioned and the colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are
covered with feathers as low as the knee; these feathers are of a dark
brown tiped with the dark brick red as are also those between and about
the joining of the legs with the body. they have four toes on each foot of
which three are in front and that in the center the longest, those one
each side nearly of a length; that behing is also of good length and are
all armed with long and strong nails. the legs and feet are white and
imbrecated with proportionably large broad scales. the upper beak is
short, wide at it's base, black, convex, curved downwards and reather
obtusely pointed. it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a
white colour, also convex underneath and obtusely pointed. the nostrils
are remarkably small placed far back and low down on the sides of the
beak. they are covered by a thin protuberant elastic, black leatherlike
substance. the eyes are of a uniform piercing black colour. this is a most
beautifull bird. I preserved the skin of this bird retaining the wings
feet and head which I hope will give a just idea of the bird. it's loud
note is single and consists of a loud squall, intirely different from the
whistling of our quales or partridge. it has a cherping note when allarmed
something like ours. — today there was a second of these birds killed
by Capt C. which precisely resembled that just discribed. I believe these
to be the male bird the female, if so, I have not yet seen. — the day
has been fair and weather extreemly pleasant. we made our men exercise
themselves in shooting today and regulate their guns found several of them
that had their sights moved by accedent, and others that wanted some
little alterations all which were compleatly rectifyed in the course of
the day. in the evening all the Indians departed for their village.
[Clark, April 7, 1806]
Monday April 7th 1806 This morning Drewyer & the two Fields Set out
agreeably to their orders of last evening, the remainder of the party
employed in drying the flesh of the five Elk killed by Shannon yesterday.
which was completed and we had it Secured in dried Shaved Elk Skins and
put on board in readiness for our early departure. we were visited by
Several parties of Indians from a Village about 12 miles above us of the
Sahhalah nation. one of them was detected in Stealing a piece of Lead. I
Sent him off imedeately. I hope now we have a Sufficient Stock of dryed
meat to Serve us as far as the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a fiew
dogs, horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the Chopunnish
under the Rocky Mountains we can precure a fiew deer, and perhaps a Bear
or two for the Mountains.
The day has been fair and weather exceedingly pleasent. we made our men
exersise themselves in Shooting and regulateing their guns, found Several
of them that had their Sights moved by accident, and others that wanted
Some little alterations all which were compleated rectified in the Course
of the day except my Small rifle, which I found wanted Cutting out. about
4 oClock P M all the Indians left us, and returned to their Village. they
had brought with them Wappato, & pashequa roots Chapellel cakes, and a
Species of Raspberry for Sale, none of which they disposed of as they
asked Such enormous prices for those articles that we were not able to
purchase any. Drewyer returned down the river in the evening &
informed us that the nativs had Sceared all the Elk from the river above.
Joseph & reuben Fields had proceeded on further up the river in the
canoe, he expected to the village.
I provaled on an old indian to mark the Multnomah R down on the Sand which
hid and perfectly Corisponded with the Sketch given me by sundary others,
with the addition of a circular mountain which passes this river at the
falls and connects with the mountains of the Seacoast. he also lais down
the Clark a mos passing a high Conical Mountain near it's mouth on the
lower Side and heads in Mount Jefferson which he lais down by raiseing the
Sand as a very high mountain and Covered with eternal Snow. the high
mountain which this Indian lais down near the enterance of Clark a mos
river, we have not Seen as the hills in it's diretion from this vally is
high and obscures the Sight of it from us. Mt Jefferson we Can plainly See
from the enterance of Multnomah from which place it bears S. E. this is a
noble Mountain and I think equally as high or Something higher than Mt.
St. Heleansa but its distance being much greater than that of the latter,
So great a portion of it does not appear above the range of mountains
which lie between both those Stupendious Mountains and the Mouth of
Multnomah. like Mt. St. Heleans its figure is a regular Cone and is
covered with eturnial Snow. that the Clarkamos nation as also those at the
falls of the Multnomah live principally on fish of which those Streams
abound and also on roots which they precure on it's borders, they also
Sometimes Come down to the Columbia in Serch of Wappato. they build their
houses in the Same form with those of the Columbian Vally of wide Split
boads and Covered with bark of the White Cedar which is the entire length
of the one Side of the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches. at
the distance of about 18 inches transvers Spinters of dried pine is
inserted through the Ceder bark inorder to keep it Smooth and prevent it's
edge from Colapsing by the heat of the Sun; in this manner the nativs make
a very Secure light and lasting roof of this bark. which we have observed
in every Vilege in this Vally as well as those above. this Indian also
informed me the multnomah above the falls was Crouded with rapids and
thickly inhabited by indians of the Callah-po-e-wah Nation. he informed he
had himself been a long way up that river &c.
[Lewis, April 8, 1806]
Tuesday April 8th 1806. The wind blew so violently this morning that we
were obliged to unlode our perogues and canoes, soon after which they
filled with water. being compelled to remain during the day at our present
station we sent out some hunters in order to add something to our stock of
provision; and exposed our dryed meat to the sun and the smoke of small
fires. in the evening the hunters returned having killed a duck only; they
saw two bear and some of the blacktailed jumping or fallow deer, such as
are found about Fort Clatsop; this kind of deer are scarce in this
neighbourhood, the common longtailed fallow deer being most abundant. we
have seen the black bear only in this quarter. the wind continued without
intermission to blow violently all day. I took a walk today of three miles
down the river; in the course of which I had an opportunity to correct an
errow which I have heretofore made with rispect to the shrub I have
hithertoo called the large leafed thorn. the leaf of this thorn is small
being only abut 21/2 inches long, is petiolate, conjugate; the leafets are
petiolate accutely pointed, having their margins cut with unequal angular
insissures. the shrub which I have heretofore confounded with this grows
in similar situations, has a stem precisely like it except the thorn and
bears a large three loabed leaf. this bryer is of the class Polyandria and
order Polygynia. the flowers are single, the peduncle long and celindric.
the calix is a perianth, of one leaf, five cleft, & accutely pointed.
the perianth is proper, erect, inferior with rispect to both petals and
germen, and equal. the corolla consists of five accute pale scarlet
petals, insirted in the recepticle with a short and narrow claw. the
Corolla is smooth, moderately long, situated at the base of the germen,
permanent, and cup shaped. of the stamens the filaments are subulate,
inserted into the recepticle, unequal and bent inwards concealing the
pistillum; anther two loabed and inflected situated on the top of the
fillaments of the pistillum the germ is conical, imbricated, superior,
sessile and short. the styles are short with rispect to the stamen,
capillary smooth, obtuse, distributed over the serface of the germ and
decid-uous. no perseptable stigma. — late at night the centinel
detected an old indian man in attempting to creep into camp in order to
pilfer; he allarmed the indian very much by presenting his gun at him; he
gave the fellow a few stripes with a switch and sent him off. this fellow
is one of a party of six who layed incamped a few hundred yards below us,
they departed soon after this occurrence.
[Clark, April 8, 1806]
Tuesday April 8th 1806 This morning about day light I heard a Considerable
roreing like wind at a distance and in the Course of a Short time ways
rose very high which appeared to come across the river and in the Course
of an hour became So high that we were obliged to unload the canoes, at 7
oClock A.M. the winds Suelded and blew So hard and raised the Waves So
emensely high from the N. E and tossed our Canoes against the Shore in
Such a manner as to render it necessary to haul them up on the bank.
finding from the appearance of the winds that it is probable that we may
be detained all day, we Sent out Drewyer, Shannon Colter & Collins to
hunt with derections to return if the Wind Should lul, if not to Continue
the hunt all day except they killed Elk or bear Sooner &c. we had the
dried meat which was cured at our last encampment below exposed to the
Sun. John Shields Cut out my Small rifle & brought hir to Shoot very
well. the party ows much to the injenuity of this man, by whome their guns
are repared when they get out of order which is very often.
I observed an Indian Woman who visited us yesterday blind of an eye, and a
man who was nearly blind of both eyes. the loss of Sight I have observed
to be more Common among all the nations inhabiting this river than among
any people I ever observed. they have almost invariably Sore eyes at all
Stages of life. the loss of an eye is very Common among them; blindness in
persons of middle age is by no means uncommon, and it is almost invariably
a concammitant of old age. I Know not to what cause to attribute this
prevalent deficientcy of the eye except it be their exposure to the
reflection of the Sun on the water to which they are constantly exposed in
the Occupation of fishing. about 1 P M Collins Shannon and Colter
returned. Collins Saw 2 bear but could not get a Shot at them. neither
Shannon nor Colter Saw any thing worth Shooting. Soon after Drewyer
returned haveing only a Summer Duck. the Elk is gorn to the mountains as
the hunters Suppose. in the evening late an old man his Son & Grand
Son and their Wives &c. Came down dureing the time the waves raged
with great fury. the wife of the Grand Son is a woman of differant
appearance from any we have Seen on this river, she has a very round head
and pierceing black eyes. Soon after those people arived the Old man was
detected in Stealing a Spoon and he was ordered away, at about 200 yards
below our Camp they built themselves a fire and did not return to our
fires after. The Wind Continued violently hard all day, and threw our
Canoes with Such force against the Shore that one of them Split before we
Could get it out.
[Lewis, April 9, 1806]
Wednesday April 9th 1806. This morning early we commenced the operation of
reloading our canoes; at 7 A.M. we departed and proceeded on to the Camp
of Reubin and Joseph Fields they had not killed any game; we made no halt
at this place but continued our rout to the Wah-clel-lah Village which is
situated on the North side of the river about a mile below the beacon
rock; here we halted and took breakfast. John Colter one of our party
observed the tomehawk in one of the lodges which had been stolen from us
on the 4th of November last as we decended this river; the natives
attempted to wrest the tomahawk from him but he retained it. they
indeavoured afterwards to exculpate themselves from the odium of having
stolen it, they alledged that they had bought it from the natives below;
but their neighbours had several days previously, informed us that these
people had stolen the Tommehawk and then had it at their village. this
village appears to be the winter station of the Wah-clel-lahs and
Clahclellars, the greater part of the former have lately removed to the
falls of the Multnomah, and the latter have established themselves a few
miles above on the North side of the river opposite the lower point of
brant island, being the commencement of the rapids, here they also take
their salmon; they are now in the act of removing, and not only take with
them their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the boards
which formed their houses. 14 houses remain entire but are at this time
but thinly inhabited, nine others appear to have been lately removed, and
the traces of ten or twelve others of ancient date were to be seen in the
rear of their present village. they sometimes sink their houses in the
earth, and at other times have their floors level with the surface of the
earth; they are generally built with boards and covered with Cedar bark.
most of them have a devision in their houses near the entrance wich is at
the end or in the event of it's bing a double house is from the center of
a narrow passage. several families inhabit one appartment. the women of
these people pierce the cartelage of the nose in which they wear various
ornaments in other rispects they do not differ from those in the
neighbourhood of the Diamond island; tho most of the women brad their hair
which hanges in two tresses one hanging over each ear. these people were
very unfriendly, and seemed illy disposed had our numbers not detered them
any acts of violence. with some difficuly we obtained five dogs from them
and a few wappetoe. on our way to this village we passed several
beautifull cascades which fell from a great hight over the stupendious
rocks which cloles the river on both sides nearly, except a small bottom
on the South side in which our hunters were encamped. the most remarkable
of these casscades falls about 300 feet perpendicularly over a solid rock
into a narrow bottom of the river on the south side. it is a large creek,
situated about 5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. several
small streams fall from a much greater hight, and in their decent become a
perfect mist which collecting on the rocks below again become visible and
decend a second time in the same manner before they reach the base of the
rocks. the hills have now become mountains high on each side are rocky
steep and covered generally with fir and white cedar. we saw some turkey
buzzards this morning of the speceis common to the United states which are
the first we have seen on this side the rocky mountains. during our halt
at this village the grand Cheif and two inferior Cheifs of the
Chil-luck-kit-to-quaw nation arrived with several men and women of their
nation in two large canoes. these people were on their return up the
river, having been on a trading voyage to the Columbean vally, and were
loaded with wappetoe dryed anchovies, with some beads &c which they
had received in exchange for dryed and pounded salmon shappelell beargrass
&c. These people had been very kind to us as we decended the river we
therefore smoked with them and treated them with every attention. at 2
P.M. we renewed our voyage; passed under the beacon rock on the north
side, to the left of two small islands situated near the shore. at four
P.M. we arrived at the Clah-clel-lah village; here we found the natives
busily engaged in erecting their new habitations, which appear to be
reather of a temperary kind; it is most probable that they only reside
here during the salmon season. we purchased two dogs of these people who
like those of the village blow were but sulky and illy disposed; they are
great rogues and we are obliged to keep them at a proper distance from our
bag-gage. as we could not ascend the rapid by the North side of the river
with our large canoes, we passed to the oposite side and entered the
narrow channel which seperates brant Island from the South shore; the
evening being far spent and the wind high raining and very cold we thought
best not to attempt the rapids this evening, we therefore sought a safe
harbour in this narrow channel and encamped on the main shore. our small
canoe with Drewer and the two feildses was unable to pass the river with
us in consequence of the waves they therefore toed her up along the N.
side of the river and encamped opposite the upper point of brant Island.
after halting this evening I took a turn with my gun in order to kill a
deer, but was unsuccessfull. I saw much fresh sign. the fir has been
lately injured by a fire near this place and many of them have discharged
considerable quantities of rozin. we directed that Collins should hunt a
few hours tomorrow morning and that Gibson and his crew should remain at
his place untill we returned and employ themselves in collectng rozin
which our canoes are now in want of.
[Clark, April 9, 1806]
Wednesday April 9th 1806 last night at a late hour the old amsiated Indian
who was detected in Stealing a Spoon yesterday, Crept upon his belley with
his hands and feet, with a view as I Suppose to take Some of our baggage
which was in Several defferent parcels on the bank. the Sentinal observed
the motions of this old amcinated retch untill he got with a fiew feet of
the baggage at he hailed him and approached with his gun in a possion as
if going to Shoote which allarmed the old retch in Such a manner that he
ran with all his power tumbleing over brush and every thing in his way. at
7 A.M. we Set out and proceeded on to the Camp of Joseph & Reubin
Fields. they had killed nothing. here we did not delay but proceeded on to
Wah-clel-lah Village on the North Side and brackfast here one the men
Colter observed the Tomahawk which was Stolen from on the 4th of Novr.
last as we decended the Columbia, he took the tomahawk the natives
attempted to wrest it from him, he held fast the Tomahawk. Those people
attempted to excuse themselves from odium of Stealing it, by makeing Signs
that they had purchased the Tomahawk, but their nighbours informed me
otherwise and made Signs that they had taken it. This Village appears to
be the wintering Station of two bands of the Shah-ha-la Nation. One band
has already moved the Falls of the Multnomah which is the place they take
their Salmon. The other band is now moveing a fiew miles above to the foot
of the first rapid on this river, at which place they take their Salmon.
14 houses only appear occupied and the inhabitants of those moveing off
hourly, they take with them in their Canoes independent of all their
houshold effects the bark of their houses, and boards. 9 houses has been
latterly abandened and 14 others is yet is thinly inhabited at present,
and the remains of 10 or 12 others are to be Seen and appears to have been
enhabited last fall. those people were not hospital and with Some
dificuelty we precured 5 dogs and a fiew Wappato of them. Soon after we
arived at this Village the Grand Cheif and two others of the
Chee-luck-kit-le-quaw Nation arived from below. they had with them 11 men
and 7 womin and had been trading in the Columbia Vally for Wappato, beeds
and dried Anchovies &c in exchange for which they had given pounded
fish Shappalell, bear grass, acorns boiled berries &c. &c. and are
now on their return to their village. as those people had been very Kind
to us as we decended the river we gave them Smoke. at 2 oClock P. M we Set
out and passed under the Beacon rock on the North Side of two Small Islds.
Situated nearest the N. side. at 4 P.M. we arived at the first rapid at
the head of Straw berry island at which place on the N W. Side of the
Columbia here we found the nativs from the last village rebuilding their
habitations of the bark of their old Village 16 Huts are already
Compleated and appear only temporrary it is most probable that they only
reside here dureing the Season of the Salmon. as we Could not pass with
the large Canoes up the N. W. Side for the rocks, the wind high and a
rainey disagreeable evining. our Smallest Canoe being too low to cross
through the high waves, we Sent her up on the N W. Side with Drewyer and
the two Fields and after purchaseing 2 dogs Crossed and into the Sluce of
a large high Island seperated from the S. E Side by a narrow chanel, in
this chanel we found a good harbor and encamped on the lower Side. We Saw
Some deer Sign and Collins to hunt in the mornig untill the Canoes were
toed above the rapids. made 16 Miles to day. evening wet &
disagreeable.
[Lewis, April 10, 1806]
Thursday April 10th 1806. We set out early and droped down the channel to
the lower end of brant Island from whence we drew them up the rapid by a
cord about a quarter of a mile which we soon performed; Collins and Gibson
not having yet come over we directed Sergt. Pryor to remain with the cord
on the Island untill Gibson arrived and assist him with his crew in geting
his canoe up the rapid, when they were to join us on the oposite side at a
small village of six houses of the Clah-clah'lahs where we halted for
breakfast. in passing the river which is here about 400 yds. wide the
rapidity of the currant was such that it boar us down a considerable
distance notwithstanding we employed five oars. on entering one of these
lodges, the natives offered us a sheepskin for sail, than which nothing
could have been more acceptable except the animal itself. the skin of the
head of the sheep with the horns remaining was cased in such manner as to
fit the head of a man by whom it was woarn and highly prized as an
ornament. we obtained this cap in exchange for a knife, and were compelled
to give two Elkskins in exchange for the skin. this appeared to be the
skin of a sheep not fully grown; the horns were about four inches long,
celindric, smooth, black, erect and pointed; they rise from the middle of
the forehead a little above the eyes. they offered us a second skin of a
full grown sheep which was quite as large as that of a common deer. they
discovered our anxity to purchase and in order to extort a great plrice
declared that they prized it too much to dispose of it. in expectation of
finding some others of a similar kind for sale among the natives of this
neighbourhood I would not offer him a greater price than had been given
for the other which he refused. these people informed us that these sheep
were found in great abundance on the hights and among the clifts of the
adjacent mountains. and that they had lately killed these two from a herd
of 36, at no great distance from their village. we could obtain no
provision from those people except four white salmon trout. at ten oclock
Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with Collins who had killed 3 deer.
these were all of the blacktailed fallow kind. we set out and continued
our rout up the N. side of the river with great difficulty in consequence
of the rapidity of the current and the large rocks which form this shore;
the South side of the river is impassable. as we had but one sufficient
toerope and were obliged to employ the cord in geting on our canoes the
greater part of the way we could only take them one at a time which
retarded our progress very much. by evening we arrived at the portage on
the North side where we landed and conveyed our bagage to the top of the
hill about 200 paces distant where we formed a camp. we had the canoes
drawn on shore and secured. the small canoe got loose from the hunters and
went a drift with a tin vessel and tommahawk in her; the Indians caught
her at the last village and brought her up to us this evening for which
service we gave them a couple of knives; the canoe overset and lost the
articles which were in her. — Saw the white pine at this place.
[Clark, April 10, 1806]
Thursday April 10th 1806 Collins went out in the bottom to hunt agreeable
to the order of last evening, and gibsons Crew was derected to delay for
Collins dureing which time they were derected to Collect rozin from the
pines in the bottom near our Camp at 6 A M. we Set out and proceeded to
the lower point of the Island from whence we were Compelled to draw our
Canoes up a rapid for about 1/4 mile which we Soon performed. Collins
& gibson haveing not yet Come over we derected Serjt. Pryor to delay
on the Island untill Gibson Came over & assist him with the large toe
roap which we also left and to join us at a village of four houses of the
Clah-lah-lar Tribe which is opposit to this Island on North Side at which
place we intened to brackfast. in crossing the River which at this place
is not more than 400 yards wide we fell down a great distance owing to the
rapidity of the Current. I entered one of the houses of those people and
was Scercely Seated before they offered me a Sheep Skin for Sale nothing
could be more acceptable except the Animal itself in examoning this Skin I
found it was a young one, the Skin of the head was Cased So as to fit the
head of a man and was esteemed as a great orniment and highly prised by
them. we precured this Cased head for a knife and, the Skin we were
obliged to give two Raw Elk Skins for. Soon after they offered a large one
for Sall. after finding us anxious to purchase they declined silling this
Skin. those people informed us that they killed those Animals among the
rocks in the mountains under which they live; and that great numbers of
those animals inhabit those mountains & that the lamb was killed out
of a gange of 36 at a Short distance from their village. The wool of the
full grown Sheep, or that on the Skin which we Saw was much Corser than
that of the one which we purchased, the Skin was about the Size of that of
a Common deer. The Skin we obtained appeared to be the Skin of a Sheep not
fully grown, the wool fine, the Horns were abought 4 inches long,
Celindric, Smooth, black, a little bending backwards and pointed; they
rise from the Middle of the foeheard, and a little above the eyes, and
appeared to possess all the marks of the Common Sheep as already
discribed. We could precure no provisions from those people except four
white Salmon trout. at 10 oClock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with
Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed fallow
kind. We Set out and Continued up on the N. Side of the river with great
dificuelty in Consequence of the Rapidity of the Current and the large
rocks which forms this Shore; the South Side of the river is impassable.
As we had but one Sufficent toe roap and were obliged to employ the Cord
in getting on our Canoes the greater part of the way we could only take
them one at a time which retarded our progress very much. by evening we
arived at the portage on the N. Side where we landed and Conveyed our
baggage to the top of the hill about 200 paces distant where we found a
Camp. we had the Canoes drawn on Shore and Secured. the Small Canoe got
loose from the hunters and went adrift with a tin cup & a tomahawk in
her; the Indians Caught her at the last Village and brought her up to us
this evening for which we gave them two knives; the Canoe overset and lost
the articles which were in her..
[Lewis, April 11, 1806]
Friday April 11th 1806. As the tents and skins which covered both our men
and baggage were wet with the rain which fell last evening, and as it
continued still raining this morning we concluded to take our canoes first
to the head of the rapids, hoping that by evening the rain would cease and
afford us a fair afternoon to take our baggage over the portage. this
portage is two thousand eight hundred yards along a narrow rough and
slipery road. the duty of getting the canoes above the rapid was by mutual
consent confided to my friend Capt. C. who took with him for that purpose
all the party except Bratton who is yet so weak he is unable to work,
three others who were lamed by various accedents and one other to cook for
the party. a few men were absolutely necessary at any rate to guard our
baggage from the War-clel-lars who crouded about our camp in considerable
numbers. these are the greates theives and scoundrels we have met with. by
the evening Capt. C. took 4 of our canoes above the rapids tho with much
difficulty and labour. the canoes were much damaged by being driven
against the rocks in dispite of every precaution which could be taken to
prevent it. the men complained of being so much fatiegued in the evening
that we posponed taking up our 5th canoe untill tomorrow. these rapids are
much worse than they were fall when we passed them, at that time there
were only three difficult points within seven miles, at present the whole
distance is extreemly difficult of ascent, and it would be impracticable
to decend except by leting down the empty vessels by a cord and then even
the wrisk would be greater than in taking them up by the same means. the
water appears to be upwards of 20 feet higher than when we decended the
river. the distance by way of the river between the points of the portage
is 3 Msmany of the natives crouded about the bank of the river where the
men were engaged in taking up the canoes; one of them had the insolence to
cast stones down the bank at two of the men who happened to be a little
detatched from the party at the time. on the return of the party in the
evening from the head of the rapids they met with many of the natives on
the road, who seemed but illy disposed; two of these fellows met with John
Sheilds who had delayed some time in purchasing a dog and was a
considerable distance behind the party on their return with Capt. C. they
attempted to take the dog from him and pushed him out of the road. he had
nothing to defend himself with except a large knife which he drew with an
intention of puting one or both of them to death before they could get
themselves in readiness to use their arrows, but discovering his design
they declined the combat and instantly fled through the woods. three of
this same tribe of villains the Wah-clel-lars, stole my dog this evening,
and took him towards their village; I was shortly afterwards informed of
this transaction by an indian who spoke the Clatsop language, and sent
three men in pursuit of the theives with orders if they made the least
resistence or difficulty in surrendering the dog to fire on them; they
overtook these fellows or reather came within sight of them at the
distance of about 2 miles; the indians discovering the party in pursuit of
them left the dog and fled. they also stole an ax from us, but scarcely
had it in their possession before Thompson detected them and wrest it from
them. we ordered the centinel to keep them out of camp, and informed them
by signs that if they made any further attempts to steal our property or
insulted our men we should put them to instant death. a cheif of the
Clah-clel-lah tribe informed us that there were two very bad men among the
Wah-clel-lahs who had been the principal actors in these seenes of
outradge of which we complained, and that it was not the wish of the
nation by any means to displease us. we told him that we hoped it might be
the case, but we should certainly be as good as our words if they
presisted in their insolence. I am convinced that no other consideration
but our number at this moment protects us. The Cheif appeared mortified at
the conduct of his people, and seemed friendly disposed towards us. as he
appeared to be a man of consideration and we had reason to beleive much
rispected by the neighbouring tribes we thought it well to bestoe a medal
of small size upon him. he appeared much gratifyed with this mark of
distinction, and some little attention which we shewed him. he had in his
possession a very good pipe tomahawk which he informed us he had received
as a present from a trader who visited him last winter over land pointing
to the N. W., whome he called Swippeton; he was pleased with the tommahawk
of Capt. C. in consequence of it's having a brass bowl and Capt. C.
gratified him by an exchange. as a further proof of his being esteemed by
this white trader, he gave us a well baked saylor's bisquit which he also
informed us he had received from Swippeton. from these evidences I have no
doubt but the traders who winter in some of the inlets to the N. of us
visit this part of the Columbia by land at certain seasons, most probably
when they are confined to their winter harbour. and if so some of those
inlets are probably at no great distance from this place, as there seems
to be but little inducement to intice the trader hither from any
considerable distance particularly as the difficulty in traveling on the
borders of this mountainous country must be great at that season as the
natives informed me their snows were frequently breast deep. I observe
snowshoes in all the lodges of the natives above the Columbean vally. I
hope that the friendly interposition of this chief may prevent our being
compelled to use some violence with these people; our men seem well
disposed to kill a few of them. we keep ourselves perefectly on our guard.
This evening we send Drewyer and the two Feildses on a few miles up the
river to the entrance of Cruzatt's river to hunt untill our arrival. The
inhabitants of the Y-eh-huh Village on the North side immediately above
the rapids have lately removed to the opposite side of the river, where it
appears they usually take their salmon. like their relations the
Wah-Clel-lars they have taken their houses with them. I observe that all
the houses lately established have their floors on the surface of the
earth, are smaller and of more temperary structure than those which are
sunk in the ground. I presume the former are their spring and Summer
dwellings and the latter those of the fall and winter. these houses are
most generally built with boards and covered with bark. some of an
inferior ore more temperary cast are built entirely of cedar bark, which
is kept smooth and extended by inserting small splinters of wood through
the bark crosswise at the distance of 12 or 14 inches assunder. several
families inhabit the same appartment. their women as well as those of the
3 villages next below us pierce the cartelage of the nose and insert
various ornaments. they very seldom imprint any figures on their skins; a
few I observed had one or two longitudinal lines of dots on the front of
the leg, reaching from the ankle upwards about midleg. most of their women
braid their hair in two tresses as before mentioned. the men usually cew
their hair in two parsels which like the braded tresses of the female hang
over each ear in front of the sholder, and gives an additional width to
the head and face so much admired by them. these cews are usually formed
with throngs of dressed Otterskin crossing each other and not roled in our
manner arrond the hair. in all other rispects I observe no difference in
their dress habits manners &c. from those in the Neighbourhood of the
diamond Island. today we recognized a man of the Elute nation who reside
at the long narrows of the Columbia, he was on his return from a trading
voyage to the Columbean valley with 10 or 12 others of his nation. many
other natives from the villages above were employed in taking their roots
&c over the portage on their return. I observed that the men equally
with the women engage in the labour of carrying. they all left their
canoes below the rapids and took others above which they had left as they
decended. those which were left below were taken down the river by the
persons from whom they had been hired or borrowed. the natives from above
behaved themselves in a very orderly manner. The salmon have not yet made
their appearance, tho the natives are not so much distressed for food as I
was induced to believe. I walked down today about 3/4 of a mile below our
encampment to observe the manner in which these people inter their dead. I
found eight sepulchers near the north bank of the river built in the
following manner. four strong forks are first sunk several feet in the
ground and rise about six feet high, froming a parrallelogram of 8 by 10
feet. the intervals between these upright forks, on which four poles are
laid, are filled up with broad erect boards with their lower ends sunk in
the ground and their upper ends confined to the horizontal poles. a flat
roof is formed of several layers of boards; the floors of these sepulchres
are on a level with the surface of the earth. the human bodies are well
rolled in dressed skins and lashed securely with chords and laid
horizontaly on the back with the head to the west. in some of these
sepulchres they are laid on each other to the debth of three or four
bodies. in one of those sepulchres which was nearly decayed I observed
that the human bones filled it perfectly to the hight of about three feet.
many articles appear to be sacreficed to the dead both within and without
the sepulcres. among other articles, I observed a brass teakettle, some
scollep shells, parts of several robes of cloth and skins, with sticks for
diging roots &c. — this appears to be the burying ground of the
Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs and Yehhuhs.
[Clark, April 11, 1806]
Friday April 11th 1806 rained the greater part of the last night and
continued to rain this morning, as the Skins and the Covering of both the
mend and loading were wet we determined to take the Canoes over first in
hopes that by the evening the rain would Sease and afford us a fair
afternoon to Carry our baggage over the portage which is 2 miles by land
and a Slipery road. I therefore took all the men except three who had Sore
feet and two to cook, and who were with the baggage; and with great
dificuelty and much fatigue we drew up 4 of our canoes above the Rapids 3
miles in extent. the men became So fatigued that we deturmined to puspone
takeing the 5th Canoe untill tomorrow. Those rapids are much worse than
they were at the time we passed last fall at that time there was only
three bad places in the distance of 7 miles. at this time the whole
distance is a rapid and dificuelt of assent; and would be very dangerous
at this Stage of the water (which is ____ feet higher than when we passed
down) to decent in any kind of Craft. Great numbers of the nativs visited
us and viewed us from the banks as we passed on with the Canoes, maney of
those people were also about our baggage and on the portage road. two of
those fellows insulted John Shields who had delayed in purchaseing a dog
at the upper part of the rapids and was Some distance behind myself and
the party on our return to camp. they attempted to take his dog and push
him out of the road. he had nothing to defend himself except a large knife
which he drew with a full deturmination to put one of them to death before
he had an oppertunity of dischargeing his arrow. the nativs obseveing his
motion ran off. one other Indn. Stold an ax and was not in possession
before he was detected by Thompson and the ax taken from him. one other
fellow attempted to Steal Capt. Lewis's dog, and had decoyed him nearly
half a mile we were informed of it by a man who Spoke the Clatsop language
and imediately Sent three men with their guns who over took the Indians,
who on their approach ran off and lift the dog — we informed the
nativ's by Signs that if the indians insulted our men or Stold our
property we Should Certainly put them to death a Chief of the
Clah-clal-lahs Tribe informed us that there was two very bad men who had
been guilty of those mischevious acts. that it was not the wish of their
tribe that any thing should be done which might displese the white people.
this Chief had a large fine pipe tomahawk which he informed me he got from
a Trader he called Swippeton. I exchanged tomahawks with this Chief, and
as he appeared to be a man of consideration among the tribes of this
neighbourhood and much conserned for the ingiries offered us, we gave him
a Medal of the Small Size which appeard. to please him verry much; and
will I hope have a favourable tendincy, in as much as it will attach him
to our interest, and he probably will harang his people in our favour,
which may prevent any acts of violence being Commited, on either Side.
nothing but the Strength of our party has prevented our being robed before
this time. Sent Drewyer & 2 Fields on a head to hunt. The inhabitents
of the Wyach-hich Tribe Village imediately above those rapids on the N W.
Side have latterly moved their village to the opposit Side of the river,
where they take their Salmon; they are now in the act of removeing and not
only take their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the
boards which formed their houses. Those like the tribes below Sometimes
Sink their houses in the earth, and at other times have their flowrs
leavil with the Surface of the earth; they are Generally built of boards
and Covered with bark. those which appear intended for temporary use are
most generally built of the White Cedar bark. Most of those have a
division in the houses near the enterance which is at the end, or in the
event of it's being a double house is from the center of a narrow passage.
Several families enhabit one appartment. the women of those people as well
as those in the 3 villages below pierce the cartilage of the nose in which
they ware Various orniments. in other respects they do not deffer from
those of the Dimond Island. tho most of the women brad their hair which
hangs in two tresses, one hanging over each ear. The yound men of all
those tribes ware their hair plated, in two plats anging over each
Sholder, maney of them also Cew their hair with otter Skin divided on the
crown of the head and hanging over each ear. to day I recognised a man of
the Elute nation who reside at the Long narrows, he was on his return from
a tradeing voyage to the Columbian Vally with 10 or 12 of his tribe. maney
others from the villages above this were takeing their roots &c. over
the portage to day on their return home.
vegitation is rapidly progressing. Sarvis berry, Sackacommis and the large
leafed ash is in blume. also fir N. ____ in bloom
[Lewis, April 12, 1806]
Saturday April 12th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and
still continued to rain this morning. I therefore determined to take up
the remaining perogue this morning for which purpose I took with me every
man that could be of any service. a small distance above our camp there is
one of the most difficult parts of the rapid. at this place the current
sets with great violence against a projecting rock. in hawling the perogue
arround this point the bow unfortunately took the current at too great a
distance from the rock, she turned her side to the stream and the utmost
exertions of all the party were unable to resist the forse with which she
was driven by the current, they were compelled to let loose the cord and
of course both perogue and cord went a drift with the stream. the loss of
this perogue will I fear compell us to purchase one or more canoes of the
indians at an extravegant price. after breakfast all hands were employed
in taking our baggage over the portage. we caused all the men who had
short rifles to carry them, in order to be prepared for the natives should
they make any attempts to rob or injure them. I went up to the head of the
rapids and left Capt. C. below. during the day I obtained a vocabulary of
the language of the War-clel-lars &c. I found that their numbers were
precisely those of the Chinnooks but the other parts of their language
essentially different. by 5 P.M. we had brought up all our baggage and
Capt. C. joined me from the lower camp with the Clahclellah cheif. there
is an old village situated about halfway on the portage road the fraim of
the houses, which are remarkably large one 160 by 45 feet, remain almost
entire. the covering of the houses appears to have been sunk in a pond
back of the village. this the chief informed us was the residence
occasionally of his tribe. these houses are fraimed in the usual manner
but consist of a double set as if oune house had been built within the
other. the floors are on a level with the ground. the natives did not
croud about us in such numbers today as yesterday, and behaved themselves
much better; no doubt the precautions which they observed us take had a
good effect. I employed sergt. Pryor the greater part of the day in
reparing and corking the perogue and canoes. it continued to rain by
showers all day. about 20 of the Y-eh-huhs remained with me the greater
part of the day and departed in the evening. they conducted themselves
with much propryety and contemned the conduct of their relations towards
us. We purchased one sheepskin for which we gave the skin of an Elk and
one of a deer. this animal was killed by the man who sold us the skin near
this place; he informed us that they were abundant among the mountains and
usually resorted the rocky parts. the big horned animal is also an
inhabitant of these mountains. I saw several robes of their skins among
the natives.as the evening was rainy cold and far advanced and ourselves
wet we determined to remain all night. the mountains are high steep and
rocky. the rock is principally black. they are covered with fir of several
speceis and the white cedar. near the river we find the Cottonwood, sweet
willow, broad leafed ash, a species of maple, the purple haw, a small
speceis of cherry; purple currant, goosberry, red willow, vining and white
burry honeysuckle, huckkle burry, sacacommis, two speceis of mountain
holley, &common ash. for the three last days this inclusive we have
made only 7 miles.
[Clark, April 12, 1806]
Saturday April 12th 1806. rained the greater part of the last night and
this morning untile 10 A.M. we employed all hands in attempting to take up
the lost Canoe. in attempting to pass by a rock against which the Current
run with emence force, the bow unfortunately took the Current at too great
a distance from the rock, She turned broad Side to the Stream, and the
exertions of every man was not Sufficient to hold her. the men were
Compelled to let go the rope and both the Canoe and rope went with the
Stream. the loss of this Canoe will I fear Compell us to purchase another
at an extravigent price. after brackfast all hands who were employed in
Carrying the baggage over the portage 11/2 miles which they performed by 4
P.M. the nativs did not visit us in Such Crouds to day as yesterday. we
Caused all the men of the party who ha Short guns to carry them on the
portage for fear of Some attempt on the part of the nativs to rob the
party. The rain Continued at intervales all day. in the evening after
everry thing was taken from the lower Camp I Set out myself accompanied by
the Cheif of the Clah-clal lars to the head of the portage. as we passed
the remains of an old Village about half way the portage, this Cheif
informed me that this old Village had been the residence of his Tribe
dureing the last Salmon Season. this village I mentiond in decending this
river, but did not know the Tribes that had inhabited it that time. Capt.
Lewis took a vocabulary of the languge of those people whilst I had all
the baggage taken across the portage & we formed a Camp at the place
we had encamped on our way down.
at my arival at the head of the portage found about 20 of the natives of
the Wy ach hich tribe who reside above the rapids, with Capt Lewis. those
people appeared much better disposed towards us than either the
Clahclallah or Wahclellah and Condemn their Conduct much. Those tribes I
believe to be all the Same Nation their Language habits manners dress
&c. are presisely alike and differ but little from those below the
Great Narrows of this river. I observed a woman with a Sheep Skin robe on
which I purchased for one Elk and one deer Skin. the father of this woman
informed me that he had killed the animal off of which he had taken this
Skin on the mountains imediately above his village, and that on those
mountains great numbers of those animals were to be found in large flocks
among the Steep rocks. I also purchased 2 pieces of Chapellell and Some
roots of those people. as the evening was rainey and ourselves and party
wet we Concluded to delay untill the morning and dry our selves. The
Indians left us about 6 P M and returned to their Village on the opposit
Side. mountains are high on each Side and Covered with Snow for about 1/3
of the way down. the growth is principally fir and White Cedar. the
bottoms and low Situations is Covered with a variety Such as Cotton, large
leafed ash, Sweet willow a Species of beech, alder, white thorn, cherry of
a Small Speces, Servis berry bushes, Huckleberries bushes, a Speces of
Lorel &c. &c. I saw a turkey buzzard which is the 3rd which I have
Seen west of the rocky mountains. the 1st was on the 7 inst. above quick
Sand river. for the three last days this inclusive we have made 7 miles
only.
[Lewis, April 13, 1806]
Sunday April 13th 1806. The loss of one of our perogues rendered it
necessary to distribute her crew and cargo among the 2 remaining perogues
and 2 canoes, which being done we loaded and set out 8 A.M. we passed the
village immediately above the rapids where only one house at present
remains entire, the other 8 having been taken down and removed to the
oposite side of the river as before mentioned. we found the additional
laiding which we had been compelled to put on board rendered our vessels
extreemly inconvenient to mannage and in short reather unsafe in the event
of high winds; I therefore left Capt. C. with the two perogues to proceede
up the river on the N. side, and with the two canoes and some additional
hands passed over the river above the rapids to the Y-eh-huh village in
order to purchase one or more canoes. I found the village consisting of 11
houses crouded with inhabitants; it appeared to me that they could have
mustered about 60 fighting men then present. they appeared very friendly
disposed, and I soon obtained two small canoes from them for which I gave
two robes and four elkskins. I also purchased four paddles and three dogs
from them with deerskins. the dog now constitutes a considerable part of
our subsistence and with most of the party has become a favorite food;
certain I am that it is a healthy strong diet, and from habit it has
become by no means disagreeable to me, I prefer it to lean venison or Elk,
and is very far superior to the horse in any state. after remaining about
2 hours at this Village I departed and continued my rout with the four
canoes along the S. side of the river the wind being too high to pass over
to the entrance of Cruzatts river where I expected to have overtaken Capt.
C. not seing the perogues on the opposite side I ascended the river untill
one oclock or about 5 ms. above the entrance of Cruzat's river. being
convinced that the perogues were behind I halted and directed the men to
dress the dogs and cook one of them for dinner; a little before we had
completed our meal Capt. C. arrived with the perogues and landed opposite
to us. after dinner I passed the river to the perogues and found that
Capt. C. had halted for the evening and was himself hunting with three of
the party. the men in formed me that they had seen nothing of the hunters
whom we had sent on the 11th ints. to the Entrance of Cruzatt's Riv. I
directed Sergt. ordway to take the two small canoes for his mess and the
loading which he had formerly carried in the perogue we lost yesterday,
and to have them dryed this evening and payed with rozin. Capt. Clark
returned in about an hour and being convinced that the hunters were yet
behind we dispatched Sergt. Pryor in surch of them with two men and an
empty canoe to bring the meat they may have killed. John Sheilds returned
a little after six P.M. with two deer which he had killed. these were also
of the blacktailed fallow deer; there appears to be no other speceis of
deer in these mountains. Capt. C. informed me that the wind had detained
him several hours a little above Cruzatt's river; that while detained here
he sent out some men to hunt; one of them wounded two deer but got neither
of them. the wind having lulled in the evening and not seing anything of
Drewyer and the Feildses he had proceeded on to this place where he
intended waiting for me, and as he did not see my canoes when he landed
had taken a hunt with some of the men as before mentioned.
[Clark, April 13, 1806]
Sunday April 13th 1806 The loss of one of our large Canoes rendered it
necessary to divide the loading and men of that Canoe between the
remaining four, which was done and we loaded and Set out at 8 oClock A.M.
passed the village imediately above the rapids, where only one house
remains entire the other 8 haveing been taken down and moved to the
opposit Side of the Columbia as already mentioned. the additional men and
baggage in each Canoe renders them Crouded and unsafe. Capt. Lewis with 2
of the Smallest Canoes of Sergt. Pryor & gibson and Crossed above the
Rapids to the Village on the S E Side with a view to purchase a Canoe of
the nativs if possible. he took with him Some Cloth and a fiew Elk skins
and Deer Skins. I with the two large Canoes proceeded on up the N. W. Side
with the intention of gitting to the Encampment of our hunters who was
derected to hunt in the bottom above Crusats River, and there wait the
arival of Capt. Lewis. I proceeded on to the bottom in which I expected to
find the hunters but Could See nothing of them. the wind rose and raised
the ways to Such a hight that I could not proceed any further. we landed
and I sent out Shields and Colter to hunt; Shields Shot two deer but Could
get neither of them. I walkd. to Crusats river and up it 1/2 a mile on my
return to the party found that the wind had lulled and as we Could See
nothing of our hunters. I deturmined to proceed on to the next bottom
where I thought it probable they had halted at 1/2 passed 2 P M Set out
and proceeded on to the bottom 6 miles and halted at the next bottom
formed a Camp and Sent out all the hunters. I also walked out my self on
the hills but saw nothing. on my return found Capt. Lewis at Camp with two
canoes which he had purchased at the Y-ep-huh village for two robes and
four elkskins. he also purchased 4 paddles and three Dogs from the nativs
with deer Skins. the dogs now constitutes a considerable part of our
Subsistance & with most of the party has become a favourable food.
Certain I am that is a helthy Strong diet, derected Serjt. ordway to take
the 2 Small Canoes purchased by Capt. Lewis for his mess and the loading
he had in his Canoe which we lost yesterday, and drawed up and paid with
rozin.
I was convinced that the hunters must have been up River Cruzatt.
despatched Sergt. Pryor with 2 men in a Canoe, with directions to assend
Crusats River and if he found the hunters to assist them in with the meat.
Jo. Shields returned about Sunset with two deer which he had killed, those
were of the Black tail fallow Deer. there appears to be no other Species
of Deer in those mountains. We proceeded on 12 miles.
[Lewis, April 14, 1806]
Monday April 14th 1806. This morning at seven oCk. we were joined by
Sergt. Pryor and the three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which
Drewyer had killed yesterday. we took breakfast and departed. at 9 A.M.
the wind arrose and continued hard all day but not so violent as to
prevent our proceeding. we kept close along the N. shore all day. the
river from the rapids as high as the commencement of the narrows is from
1/2 to 3/4 of a mile in width, and possesses scarcely any current. the bed
is principally rock except at the entrance of Labuish's river which heads
in Mount hood and like the quicksand river brings down from thence vast
bodies of sand. the mountains through which the river passes nearly to the
sepulchre rock, are high broken, rocky, partially covered with fir white
cedar, and in many places exhibit very romantic seenes. some handsome
cascades are seen on either hand tumbling from the stupendious rocks of
the mountains into the river. near the border of the river I observed
today the long leafed pine. this pine increases in quantity as you ascend
the river and about the sepulchre rock where the lower country commences
it superceedes the fir altogether. throughout the whole course of this
river from the rapids as high as the Chilluckkittequaws, we find the
trunks of many large pine trees sanding erect as they grew at present in
30 feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegetating; at the
lowest tide of the river many of these trees are in ten feet water.
certain it is that those large pine trees never grew in that position, nor
can I account for this phenomenon except it be that the passage of the
river through the narrow pass at the rapids has been obstructed by the
rocks which have fallen from the hills into that channel within the last
20 years; the appearance of the hills at that place justify this opinion,
they appear constantly to be falling in, and the apparent state of the
decayed trees would seem to fix the era of their decline about the time
men-tioned. at 1 P.M. we arrived at a large village situated in a narrow
bottom on the N. side a little above the entrance of canoe creek. their
houses are reather detatched and extent for several miles. they are about
20 in number. These people call themselves We-ock-sock, Wil-lacum. they
differ but litte in appeance dress &c. from those of the rapids. Their
men have some leging and mockersons among them. these are in the stile of
Chopunnish. they have some good horses of which we saw ten or a douzen.
these are the fist horses we have met with since we left this
neighbourhood last fall, in short the country below this place will not
permit the uce of this valuable animal except in the Columbian vally and
there the present inhabitants have no uce for them as they reside
immediately on the river and the country is too thickly timbered to admit
them to run the game with horses if they had them. we halted at this
village and dined. purchased five dogs some roots, shappalell, filberds
and dryed burries of the inhabitants. here I observed several habitations
entirely under grownd; they were sunk about 8 feet deep and covered with
strong timber and several feet of earth in a conic form. these habitations
were evacuated at present. they are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly
circular, and are entered through a hole at the top which appears to
answer the double purpose of a chimney and a door. from this entrance you
decend to the floor by a ladder. the present habitations of these people
were on the surface of the ground and do not differ from those of the
tribes of the rapids. their language is the same with that of the
Chilluckkittequaws. these people appeared very friendly. some of them
informed us that they had lately returned from a war excurtion against the
snake indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the S.
E. of them. they call them To-wannah'-hi'-ooks. that they had been
fortunate in their expedition and had taken from their enimies most of the
horses which we saw in their possession. after dinner we pursued our
voyage; Capt. Clark walked on shore with Charbono. I ascended the river
about six miles at which place the river washed the base of high clifts on
the Lard. side, here we halted a few minutes and were joined by Capt. C.
and Charbono and proceeded on to the entrance of a small run on N. side a
little below a large village on the same side opposite the sepulchre rock.
this village can raise about an hundred fighting men they call themselves.
they do not differ in any rispect from the village below. many of them
visited our camp this evening and remained with us untill we went to bed.
they then left us and retired to their quarters.
[Clark, April 14, 1806]
Monday April 14th 1806 This morning at 7 oClock we were joined by Sgt.
Pryor and they three hunters they brought with them 4 deer which drewyer
had killed yesterday. we took brackfast and departed at 9 A.M. the wind
rose and Continued to blow hard all day but not so violent as to prevent
our proceeding. we kept Close allong the N. Shore all day. the river from
the rapids to the Commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a Mile
in wedth, and possesses but little Current. the bead is rock except at the
enterence of Labiech's river which heads in Mt. Hood and like the quick
Sand River brings down from thence Vast bodies of Sand the Mountains
through which the river passes nearly to Cataract River are high broken
rocky, particularly Covered with fir and white Cedar, and in maney places
very romantic scenes. Some handsom Cascades are Seen on either Side
tumbling from the Stupendious rocks of the mountains into the river. I
observe near the river the long leafed Pine which increas as we assend and
Superseeds the fir altogether about the Sepulchre rock. We find the trunks
of maney large pine trees Standing erect as they grew, at present in 30
feet water; they are much doated and none of them vegitateing. at the
lowest water of the river maney of those trees are in 10 feet water. the
Cause I have attempted to account for as I decended. at 1 P M. we arrived
at a large village Situated in a narrow bottom on the N. Side a little
above the enterance of Canoe Creek. their houses are reather detached, and
extend for Several Miles. they are about 20 in number. those people Call
themselves Wil-la-cum. they differ but little in appearance dress &c.
from those of the rapids. their men have Some legins and mockersons among
them. those are in the Stile of Chopunnish. they have Some good horss of
which we Saw 10 or 12 these are the first horses we have met with Since we
left this neighbourhood last fall in Short the Country below this place
will not permit the use of this valuable animal except in the Columbian
vally, and there the present inhabitents have no use for them as they
reside imediately on the river and the Country is too thickly timbd. We
halted at this village Dined and purchased five dogs, Some roots
Chappalell, Philberds and dried berries of the inhabitents. here I
observed Several habitations under ground; they were Sunk about 8 feet
deep and covered with Strong timber and Several feet of earth in a conic
form. those habitations are avacuated at present. they are about 16 feet
diamieter, nearly Circular, and are entered through a hole at top which
appears to answer the double purpose of a Chimney and a dore. from this
enterance you decend to the flore by a ladder. the present habitations of
those people were on the Surface of the ground and do not differ from
those of the tribes about the Rapids. their language is the Same with the
Che luck kit to quaws. these people appeared very friendly. Some of them
informed us that they had latterly returned from the War excurtion against
the Snake Indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the
S. E. of them they Call them To wan nah hi ooks. that they had been
fortunate in the expidition and had taken from their enimies most of the
horses which we Saw in their possession. after dinner we proceeded on our
voyage. I walked on Shore with Shabono on the N. Side through a handsom
bottom. met Several parties of women and boys in Serch of herbs &
roots to Subsist on maney of them had parcels of the Stems of the
Sunflower. I joined Capt Lewis and the party at 6 miles, at which place
the river washed the bottom of high Clifts on the N. Side. Several Canoes
over take us with families moveing up. we passed 3 encampments and came
too in the mouth of a Small Creek on the N. Side imediately below a
village and opposit the Sepulchar rock. this village Consists of about 100
fighting men of Several tribes from the plains to the North Collected here
waiting for the Salmon. they do not differ in any respect from those
below. many of them visited our Camp this evening and remaind. with us
untill we went to bead. they then left us and returned to their quarters.
made ____ miles.
[Lewis, April 15, 1806]
Tuesday April 15th 1806 We delayed this morning untill after breakfast in
order to purchase some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed some
articles in exchange for horses the natives were unwilling to barter, we
therefore put up our merchandize and at 8 A.M. we set out. we halted a few
minutes at the sepulchre rock, and examined the deposits of the ded at
that place. these were constructed in the same manner of those already
discribed below the rapids. some of them were more than half filled with
dead bodies. there were thirteen sepulchres on this rock which stands near
the center of the river and has a surface of about 2 acres above highwater
mark. — from hence we returned to the nothern shore and continued up
it about four miles to another village of the same nation with whom we
remained last night. here we halted and informed the natives of our wish
to purchase horses; the produced us several for sale but would not take
the articles which we had in exchange for them. they wanted an instrumet
which the Northwest traders call an eye-dag which we had not. we procured
two dogs of them and departed. a little below the entrance of Cataract
river we halted at another village of the same people, at which we were
equally unsuccessful) in the purchase of horses. we also halted at the two
villages of the Chilluckkittequaws a few miles above with no better
success. at three in the evening we arrived at the entrance of Quinnette
creek which we ascended a short distance and encamped at the place we have
called rockfort camp. here we were visited by some of the people from the
villages at the great narrows and falls. we informed them of our wish to
purchase horses, & agreed to meet them on the opposite or North side
of the river tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with them. most of them
returned to their villages this evening three only remained with us all
night. these people are much better clad than any of the nations below;
their men have generally leging mockersons and large robes, many of them
wear shirts of the same form those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees highly
ornamented with the quills of the porcupine as are also their mockersons
and legings. they conceal the parts of generation with the skin of a fox
or some other small animal drawn underneath a girdle and hanging loosly in
front of them like a narrow apron. the dress of their women differs very
little from those about the rapids. both men and women cut their hair in
the forehead which comes down as low as the eyebrows, they have long
earlocks cut square at the end. the other part of their hair is dressed in
the same manner as those of the rapids. after we landed and formed our
camp this evening Drewyer and some others took a hunt and killed a deer of
the longtailed kind. it was a buck and the young horns had shot fourth
about 2 inches.
[Clark, April 15, 1806]
Tuesday April 15th 1806 We delayed this morning untill after brackfast in
order to purchase Some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed Some
articles in exchange for horses the nativs were unwilling to exchange
their horses, we put up our merchindize and at 8 A M. Set out. we halted a
fiew minits at the Sepulchar rock and examined the deposit of the dead at
that place. those were Constructed in the Same manner of those already
described below the rapids. Some of them were more than half filled with
dead bodies. there were 13 Sepulchers on this rock which Stands near the
Center of the river, and has a Cerface of about two acres above the
water.. from hence we returned to the Northern Shore and Continued up it
about 4 miles to a Village at the enterance of Cateract River, here we
halted and informed the nativs of our wish to purchase horses; the
produced Several for Sale but would not take the articles we had in
exchange for them. they wanted an instriment which the Northw Traders call
an eye dag which we had not. we precured two dogs and departed we also
halted at the two villages of the Chil luck kitequaws a fiew Ms. above
with no better Sucksess. at 3 in the evening we arivied at the enterance
of Quinnett Creek which we assended a Short distance and Encamped at the
place we had Called rock fort Camp. here we were visited by Some of the
people from the Villages at the long Narrows & Falls. we informed them
of our wish to purchase horses, and agreed to meet them on the opposit or
north Side on tomorrow for the purpose of bartering with them. most of
them returned to their village this evening three only remained with us
all night. those people are much better Clad than the nativs below. their
men have generaly Legins mockersons & large robes. Maney of them were
Shirts of the Same form of those of the Chopunnish & Shoshonees highly
ornamented with the quils of the purcupine, as are also their mockersons
& Legins. they Conseal the parts of generation with the Skins of the
Fox or Some other Small animal drawn under neath a girdle and hanging
loosely in front of them like a narrow apron. The dress of their women
differ verry little from those about the rapids. both men & women Cut
their hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the Eyebrows, they
have long ear locks Cut Square at the end. The other parts of their hair
is dressed in the Same Manner as those of the rapids. after we landld and
formed our Camp this evening Drewyer and some oths took a hunt and killed
a Deer of the log tailed kind. it was a Buck and the young deer horns had
Shot foth about two inches made ____ miles to day.
[Lewis, April 16, 1806]
Wednesday April 16th 1806. About 8 A.M. Capt. Clark passed the river with
the two interpreters, the indian woman and nine men in order to trade with
the natives for their horses, for which purpose he took with him a good
part of our stock of merchandize. I remained in camp; sent out the hunters
very early in the morning, and set Sergts. Gass and Pryor with some others
at work to make a parsel of packsaddles. twelve horses will be sufficient
to transport our baggage and some pounded fish which we intend taking with
us as a reserved store for the rocky mountains. I was visited today by
several of the natives, and amused myself in making a collection of the
esculent plants in the neighbourhood such as the Indians use, a specemine
of which I preserved. I also met with sundry other plants which were
strangers to me which I also preserved, among others there is a currant
which is now in blume and has yellow blossom something like the yellow
currant of the Missouri but is a different speceis. Reubin Feilds returned
in the evening and brought with him a large grey squrrel and two others of
a kind I had never before seen. they are a size less than the grey
squirrel common to the middle atlantic states and of a pided grey and
yellowish brown colour, in form it resembles our grey squrrel precisely. I
had them skined leaving the head feet and tail to them and placed in the
sun to dry. Joseph Feilds brought me a black pheasant which he had killed;
this I found on examination to be the large black or dark brown pheasant I
had met with on the upper part of the Missouri. it is as large as a well
grown fowl the iris of the eye is of a dark yellowish brown, the puple
black, the legs are booted to the toes, the tail is composed of 18 black
feathers tiped with bluish white, of which the two in the center are
reather shorter than the others which are all of the same length. over the
eye there is a stripe of a 1/4 of an inch in width uncovered with feathers
of a fine orrange yellow. the wide spaces void of feathers on the side of
the neck are also of the same colour. I had some parts of this bird
preserved. our present station is the last point at which there is a
single stick of timber on the river for a great distance and is the
commencement of the open plains which extend nearly to the base of the
rocky Mts. Labuish returned this evening having killed two deer I sent and
had them brought in. this evening Capt. C. informed me by some of the men
whom he sent over that that he had obtained no horses as yet of the
natives. that they promised to trade with him provided he would remove to
their vil-lage. to this he had consented and should proceede to the
Skillute village above the long narrows as soon as the men returned whom
he had sent to me for some other articles. I dispatched the men on their
return to capt. C. immediately with these articles and he set out with his
party accompanyed by the natives to their village where he remained all
night. — the natives who had spent the day with me seemed very well
disposed, they left me at 6 in the evening and returned to their
rispective villages. the hunters informed me that they saw some Antelopes,
& the tracks of several black bear, but no appearance of any Elk. we
were informed by the Indians that the river which falls in on the S. side
of the Columbia just above the Eneshur village heads in Mount hood and
dose not water the extensive country which we have heretofore calculated
on. a great portion of that extensive tract of country to the S. and S. W.
of the Columbia and it's S. E. branch, and between the same and the waters
of Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah river.
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
April 16th 1806 Crossed the river and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the
Skil lute village to envite the Indians to trade horses with us, also sent
Frazer & Shabono to the Che-luck-kit-ti-quar village for the same
purpose a number of Indians came of both nations and delayed the greater
part of the day without tradeing a Single horse the Great Chief of the
Skillutes also came with Drewyer. he was lame and Could not walk he told
me if I would go to his Town his people would trade with me. I Set out
late and arrived at Sunset and informd. the natives that in the morning I
would trade with them. he gave me onions to eate which had been Sweated.
Peter played the violin and the men danced. Saw abt. 100 Stacks of fish.
maney nations visit this place for trade. the discription of the houses,
their dress habits &c. Smoked &c. I saw great numbers of horses
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
Wednesday April 16th 1806 about 8 oClock this morning I passed the river
with the two interpreters, and nine men in order to trade with the nativs
for their horses, for which purpose I took with me a good part of our
Stock of merchindize. Capt L. Sent out the hunters and Set Several men at
work makeing pack Saddles. twelve horses will be Sufficient to trans port
our baggage and Some pounded fish with our dried Elk. which we intend
takeing with us as a reserved Store for the Plains & rocky mountains.
I formed a Camp on the N. Side and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the
Skillute Village, and Shabono & Frazer down to the Chilluckkitequaw
Villages with derections to inform the nativs that I had Crossed the river
for the purpose of purchaseing horses, and if they had horses to Sell us
to bring them to my Camp. Great numbers of Indians came from both Villages
and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing a Single horse.
Drewyer returned with the principal Chief of the Skillutes who was lame
and Could not walk. after his arival Some horses were offered for Sale,
but they asked nearly half the merchindize I had with me for one horse.
this price I could not think of giveing. the Chief informed me if I would
go to his town with him, his people would Sell me horses. I therefore
Concluded to accompany him to his Village 7 miles distant. we Set out and
arrived at the Village at Sunset. after Some Serimony I entered the house
of the Chief. I then informed them that I would trade with them for their
horses in the morning for which I would give for each horse the articles
which I had offered yestered. The Chief Set before me a large platter of
Onions which had been Sweeted. I gave a part of those onions to all my
party and we all eate of them, in this State the root is very Sweet and
the tops tender. the nativs requested the party to dance which they very
readily consented and Peter Cruzat played on the Violin and the men danced
Several dances & retired to rest in the houses of the 1st and Second
Cheif.
this village is moved about 300 yards below the Spot it Stood last fall at
the time we passed down. they were all above grown and built in the Same
form of those below already discribed. We observed maney stacks of fish
remaining untouched on either Side of the river. The Inhabitents of this
Village ware the robe of deer Elk Goat &c. and most of the men ware
Legins and mockersons and Shirts highly ornimented with Porcupine quills
& beeds. the women were the Truss most Commonly. tho Some of them have
long Shirts all of those articles they precure from other nations who
visit them for the purpose of exchangeing those articles for their pounded
fish of which they prepare great quantities. This is the Great Mart of all
this Country. ten different tribes who reside on Taptate and Catteract
River visit those people for the purpose of purchaseing their fish, and
the Indians on the Columbia and Lewis's river quite to the Chopunnish
Nation Visit them for the purpose of tradeing horses buffalow robes for
beeds, and Such articles as they have not. The Skillutes precure the most
of their Cloth knivs axes & beeds from the Indians from the North of
them who trade with white people who come into the inlets to the North at
no great distance from the Tapteet. their horses of which I saw great
numbers, they precure from the Indians who reside on the banks of the
Columbia above, and what fiew they take from the To war ne hi ooks or
Snake Indians. I smoked with all the principal men of this nation in the
house of their great Cheif and lay my Self down on a Mat to Sleep but was
prevented by the mice and vermin with which this house abounded and which
was very troublesom to me.
[Lewis, April 17, 1806]
Thursday April 17th 1806. This morning early I sent out the hunters, and
set several additional hands about the packsaddles. I find that the
sturgeon is not taken by any of the natives above the Columbean vally. the
inhabitants of the rapids at this time take a few of the white salmon
trout and considerable quantities of a small indifferent mullet on which
they principally subsist. I have seen none except dryed fish of the last
season in the possession of the people above that place, they subsist on
roots principally with some dryed and pounded fish. the salmon not having
made their appearance proves a serious inconvenience to us. but few of the
natives visited my camp today and those only remained a few hours. even at
this place which is merely on the border of the plains of Columbia the
climate seems to have changed the air feels dryer and more pure. the earth
is dry and seems as if there had been no rain for a week or ten days. the
plain is covered with a rich virdure of grass and herbs from four to nine
inches high and exhibits a beautiful) seen particularly pleasing after
having been so long imprisoned in mountains and those almost impenetrably
thick forrests of the seacoast. Joseph Feilds brought me today three eggs
of the party coloured corvus, they are about the size and shape of those
of the pigeon. they are bluish white much freckled with dark redish brown
irregular spots, in short it is reather a mixture of those colours in
which the redish brown predominates, particularly towards the larger end. — This
evening Willard and Cruzatte returned from Capt. Clark and brought me a
note in which Capt. C. informed me that he had sill been unsuccessful)
having not obtained a single horse as yet from the natives and the state
of our stores are so low that I begin to fear we shall not be enabled to
obtain as many horses at this place as will convey our baggage and unless
we do obtain a sufficient number for that purpose we shall not hasten our
progress as a part of our baggage must still be conveyed by water. Capt.
C. informed me that he should proceed as far as the Eneshur village today
and would return tomorrow and join me at the Skillute village to which
place I mean to proceed with the party tomorrow. I dispatched Shannon with
a note to Capt. Clark in which I requested him to double the price we have
heretofore offered for horses and if possible obtain as many as five, by
this means we shall be enabled to proceed immediately with our small
canoes and those horses to the villages in the neighbourhood of the mussel
shell rapid where horses are more abundant and cheaper; with the remainder
of our merchandize in addition to the canoes we can no doubt obtain as
many horses there as will answer our purposes. delay in the villages at
the narrows and falls will be expensive to us inasmuch as we will be
compelled to purchase both fuel and food of the indians, and might the
better enable them to execute any hostile desighn should they meditate any
against us. — all the hunters returned in the evening. Sheilds had
killed one deer which he brought with him. the packsaddles were completed
this evening. I had some Elkskins put in the water today make harnes for
the packhorses but shall not cut them untill I know the number we can
obtain. — there is a species of hiasinth in these plains the bulb of
which the natives eat either boiled baked or dryed in the sun. this bulb
is white, not entirely solid, and of a flat form; the bulb of the present
year overlays, or crowns that of the last, and seems to be pressed close
to it, the old bulb is withered much thiner equally wide with that of the
present year and sends fourth from it's sides a number of small radicles. — this
hiasinth is of a pale blue colour and is a very pretty flower. I preserved
a specemine of it.
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
April 17th 1806 I rose early and took a position near to the village and
exposed the artiles I had for Sale Great numbers of Indians Came from
different derections, Some from below Some above and others across the
Countrey from the Tapteet river See description of the Nations &c. — I
obtained a Sketch of the Columbia as also Clarks river. See sketch I made
a bargin with the Chief who has more horses than all the village besides
for 2 horses. Soon after he Canseled his bargin, and we again bargined for
3 horses, they were brought forward, and only one fit for Service, the
others had Such intolerable backs as to render them entirely unfit for
Service. as I would not take the 3 he would not Sell the good one to me,
and we were off the bargin. I then packed up and was about Setting out for
the Falls when one Indian Sold me 2 horses and one other one horse, and
Some others Said they wished to trade which caused me to conclude to delay
here one other night. Maney of the natives from above Come and Said they
would trade, but asked a higher price than I thought I could give or
reather more than this nation asked. — Great numbers of Men. — I
hed to purchase 3 dogs for the men to eate & Some Shap-per-lell. I
Sent Crusat, Wiser, Willard and McNeal back to Capt Lewis informing him of
my ill Suck'sess, and adviseing him to proceed on to this place as Soon as
possible, and my intention of proceededing on to the falls to purchase
horses if possible Several Indians arived late this evening. Capt. Lewis
Sent me a note by Shannon informing me that he would Set early on tomorrow
morning early &c. &c. I sleped in house of the 2d Chief and they
had not any thing except fish to eate and no wood for fire. those people
have a number of buffalow robes. They have great number of Skimming nets
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th of April 1806 I rose early after bad nights rest, and took
my merchindize to a rock which afforded an elegable Situation for my
purpose, and at a Short distance from the houses, and divided the articles
of merchindize into parsels of Such articles as I thought best Calculated
to pleas the Indians, and in each parcel I put as many articles as we
could afford to give, and thus exposed them to view, informing the Indians
that each parcel was intended for a horse. they tanterlised me the greater
part of the day, Saying that they had Sent out for their horses and would
trade as Soon as they Came. Several parcels of merchindize was laid by for
which they told me they would bring horses. I made a bargin with the Chief
for 2 horses, about an hour after he canseled the bargin and we again
bargained for 3 horses which were brought foward, only one of the 3 could
be possibly used the other two had Such intolerable backs as to render
them entirely unfit for Service. I refused to take two of them which
displeased him and he refused to part with the 3rd. I then packed up the
articles and was about Setting out for the Village above when a man Came
and Sold me two horses, and another man Sold me one horse, and Several
others informed me that they would trade with me if I would Continue
untill their horses could be drove up. this induced me to Continue at this
Village another day. Maney of the nativs from different villages on the
Columbia above offered to trade, but asked Such things as we had not and
double as much of the articles which I had as we could afford to give.
this was a very unfavourable circumstance as my dependance for precureing
a Sufficiency of horses rested on the Suckcess above where I had reasons
to believe there were a greater abundance of those animals, and was in
hopes of getting them on better terms. I purchased 3 dogs for the party
with me to eate and Some Chap-pa-lell for my Self. before precureing the 3
horses I dispatched Crusat, Willard & McNeal and Peter Wiser to Capt
Lewis at the Rock fort Camp with a note informing him of my ill Suckcess
in precureing horses, and advised him to proceed on to this place as Soon
as possible. that I would in the mean time proceed on to the Enesher
Nation above the Great falls and try to purchase Some horses of that
people. Soon after I had dispatched this party the Chief of the Enesher's
and 15 or 20 of his people visited me and appeared to be anxious to See
the articles I offered for the horses. Several of them agreeed to let me
have horses if I would add Sundery articles to those I offered which I
agreeed to, and they lay'd those bundles by and informed me they would
deliver me the horses in the morning. I proposed going with them to their
Town. the Chief informed me that their horses were all in the plains with
their womin gathering roots. they would Send out and bring the horses to
this place tomorrow. this entiligence was flattering, tho I doubted the
Sincerity of those people who had Several times disapointed me in a
Similar way. however I deturmined to Continue untill tomorrow. in the mean
time industously employd. our Selves with the great multitude of indians
of differant Nations about us trying to purchase horses. Shabono purchased
a verry fine Mare for which he gave Hurmen, Elks Teeth, a belt and Some
other articles of no great value. no other purchase was made in the Course
of this day. in the evening I recved a note from Capt L — by Shannon
informing me that he Should Set out early on tomorrow morning and Should
proceed up to the bason 2 miles below the Skillute Village. and adviseing
me to give double the prices which we had first agreed on for each horse.
I observe at every house Scooping Nets with which they take the Salmon.
I was envited into the house of the 2nd Chief where Concluded to Sleep.
this man was pore nothing to eat but dried fish, and no wood to burn.
altho the night was Cold they Could not rase as much wood as would make a
fire
[Lewis, April 18, 1806]
Friday April 18th 1806. Late last evening we were visited by the principal
cheif of Chilluckkittaquaws and 12 of his nation they remained with us
untill 9 OC. when they all departed except the Cheif and two others who
slept at my feet. we loaded our vessels and set out after an early
breakfast this morning. we gave the indians a passage to the N. shore on
which they reside and pursued our rout to the foot of the first rapid at
the distance of 4 ms. here we found it necessary to unload the perogues
and canoes and make a portage of 70 paces over a rock; we then drew our
vessels up by a cord and the assistance of setingpoles. from hence we
proceeded to the bason below the long narrows 5 ms. further and landed on
the Lard. side at 1/2 after 3. the Cheif when he left me this morning
promised to bring some horses to barter with me at the bason. the long
narrows are much more formidable than they were when we decended them last
fall there would be no possibility of passind either up or down them in
any vessel. — after unloading the canoes and arranging the camp I
walked up to the Skillute Village and jouined Capt. he had procured four
horses only for which a high price had been given, at least more than
double that which we had formerly given for those which we purchased from
the Shoshonees and the first band of Flatheads. they have a great
abundance of horses but will not dispose of them. we determined to make
the portage to the head of the long narrows with our baggage and five
small canoes. the 2 perogues we could take no further and therefore cut
them up for fuel. in the evening Capt. C. and myself returned to the camp
at the bason and left Drewyer and three others with the merchandize at the
village, three parsels of which had been laid by at the request of
individuals who promised to give us horses for them in the morning. — I
shot my airgun in the presents of the natives at the village which excited
great astonishment.
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
April 18th 1806 early this morning I was awoke by a Indian from the
nieghbourhood of our horses, he had he arived here yesterday & this
morning found a Small bag of powder and ball which had been left when we
exposed our goods yesterday and brought it to me. I had a fire made out
and exposed the articles &c. having increased the articles for each
horse, and Sent out 2 men to hunt the horses bought yesterday. after
Colecting them Sent Shabono and Frazer with the 4 I had purchased down to
Capt Lewis. and was tanterlised with the expectation of purchaseing more
imediately. Great numbers of the Indians from the falls and both above and
below. none of them appeared anxious to part with their horses but told me
that Several were Comeing from the plains about 1 or 2 P M. and laid by 2
parcels of merchindize and told me that they had Sent for their horses.
among other Tribes was those of the Skad-datts who bantered the Skillutes
to play with them at a Singular Kind of game which was Soon Made up and 9
of aside Sat down they were Some time making up their bets of Beeds, brass
thimbles or tubes robes &c. &c. when the bets were all made up the
nine on each Side took opposides faceing each other at the distance of
about 12 feet. in front of each party was placed a long pole on which they
Struck with a Stick and Sung. they made use of 2 Small pices of bone in
this form and Size a bone was given to 2 men of the Same party who changed
it from hand to hand with great dexterity one hand above the other looking
down, and when he was ready for the opposit party to guess he Seperated
his hands Swinging them around the breast looking at the opposit party who
waved their hand to the Side the bone was in. if the opposit party guessed
the hand of each man the bone was given to them. if neither it was
nothing. if they guessed one which they might single out if they pleased
they recived his bone, and lost on the other as they hapened to fail in
guessing the also lose one if they fail guessing both The game is plaid at
different numbers & each party has 5 sticks. Several of those games
were played to day in which the Skillute won, indeed the won all the beeds
and Som robes of the Skad datts which they _____ one other game which they
also played _____ 2 by men with 4 Sticks. 2 black & 2 White under a
kind of hat made of bark. as this is a very intrecut game I cannot
describe it: the one who holds the Sticks places them in different
positions, and the opposit party, guess the position of the black Sticks
by a motion of either one or both of the hands. each man has 4 Sticks.
this as also the other is accompanied with a kind of Song. This hat is
about 12 inches diamuter and the Sticks about 5 inches long — -at 3 P
M Sergt Ordway arived with 3 men from Capt Lewis with elk skins and Some
fiew articles Such as a Coat & robes. I had 3 dogs purchased, Soon
after Capt. Lewis Came up with J. Fields he had assended the river with
much dificuelty to the bason 2 Miles below. I left Drewyer, Warner,
Shannon & Goodrich with the articles and went down with Capt Lewis to
the bason, Cut up 2 of our canoes for fire wood no horses more maney
nations resort here for trade
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
Friday 18th April 1806 Early this Morning I was awoke by an indian man of
the Chopunnish Nation who informed me that he lived in the neighbourhood
of our horses. this man delivered me a bag of powder and ball which he had
picked up this morning at the place the goods were exposed yesterday I had
a fire made of Some poles purchased of the nativs at a Short distance from
the houses and the articles exposed as yesterday. Collected the 4 horses
purchased yesterday and Sent Frazier and Shabono with them to the bason
where I expected they would meet Cap L-s and Commence the portage of the
baggage on those horses. about 10 A.M. the Indians Came down from the
Eneesher Villages and I expected would take the articles which they had
laid by yesterday. but to my estonishment not one would make the exchange
to day-. two other parcels of good were laid by and the horses promised at
2 P.M. I payed but little attention to this bargain however Suffered the
bundles to lye. I dressed the Sores of the principal Chief gave Some Small
things to his children and promised the Chief Some Medicine for to Cure
his Sores. his wife who I found to be a Sulky Bitch and was Somewhat
efflicted with pains in her back. this I thought a good oppertunity to get
her on my Side giveing here Something for her back. I rubed a little
Camphere on her temples and back, and applyed worm flannel to her back
which She thought had nearly restored her to her former feelings. this I
thought a favourable time to trade with the Chief who had more horses than
all the nation besides. I accordingly made him an offer which he excepted
and Sold me two horses. Great numbers of Indians from defferent derections
visited me at this place to day, none of them appeared willing to part
with their horses, but told me that Several were Comeing from the plains
this evening. among other Nations who visit this place for the purpose of
trade is the Skad-datt's. those people bantered the Skillutes to play at a
Singular kind of game. in the Course of the day the Skillutes won all
their beeds Skins arrows &c. This game was Composed of 9 men on a
Side. they Set down opposit to each other at the distance of about 10
feet. in front of each party a long pole was placed on which they Struck
with a Small Stick to the time of their Songs. after the bets were made up
which was nearly half an hour after they Set down, two round bones was
producd about the Size of a mans little finger or Something Smaller and
21/4 inches in length. which they held in their hand Changeing it from one
hand to the other with great dexterity. 2 men on the Same Side performed
this part, and when they had the bone in the hand they wished, they looked
at their advosarys Swinging arms around their Sholders for their advosary
Guess which they pirformed by the motion the hand either to the right or
left. if the opposit party guessed the hand of both of the men who had the
bone, the bones were given to them. if neither the bones was retained and
nothing Counted. if they guessed one and not the other, one bone was
dilivered up and the party possessing the other bone Counted one. and one
for every time the advosary miss guessed untill they guessed the hand in
which the bone was in-in this game each party has 5 Sticks. and one Side
wins all the Sticks, once twice or thrice as the game may be Set. I
observed another game which those people also play and is played by 2
persons with 4 Sticks about the Size of a mans finger and about 7 inches
in length. two of those Sticks are black and the other 2 White and
Something larger than the black ones. those Sticks they place in defferent
positions which they perform under a kind of trencher made of bark round
and about 14 inches diamieter. this is a very intricate game and I cannot
Sufficiently understand to discribe it. the man who is in possession of
the Sticks &c places them in defferent positions, and the opposit
party tels the position of the black Sticks by a motion of either or both
of his hands &c. this game is Counted in the Same way as the one
before mentioned. all their games are accompanied with Songs and time. at
3 P. M Sergt. Ordway & three men arived from Cap Lewis they brought
with them Several Elk Skins, two of my Coats and 4 robes of the party to
add to the Stores I had with me for the purchase of horses. Sgt. O.
informed me that Cap L. had arived with all the Canoes into the bason 2
miles below and wished Some dogs to eate. I had 3 dogs purchased and Sent
down. at 5 P.M. Capt. Lewis Came up. he informed me that he had the river
to the bason with much difecuelty and danger, haveing made one portage. as
I had not Slept but very little for the two nights past on account of mice
& virmen with which those indian houses abounded, and haveing no
blanket with me, and the means of keeping a fire Sufficent to keep me worm
out was too Expensive I deturmined to proceed with Capt L. down to Camp at
the bason. I left the Articles of Merchendize &c. with Drewyer,
Werner, Shannon & Goodrich untill the morning — -at the bason we
Cut up two of our Canoes for fire wood verry much to the Sagreen of the
nativs not with standing they would give us nothing for them. In my
absence Several Inds. visited Capt. Lewis at his camp among others was the
great Cheif of the Chilluckkitquaw who Continued with him untill he left
Rock fort Camp. Capt L. had 12 pack Saddles Completed and Strings prepared
of the Elk skins for Lashing the loads he also kept out all the hunters
who killed just deer enough for the party with him to Subsist on. The
Cheif who had Visited Capt Lewis promised him that he would bring Some
horses to the bason and trade with him. but he was not as good as his
word. Capt Lewis gave a large Kittle for a horse which was offered to him
at the bason this evening.
[Lewis, April 19, 1806]
Saturday Aprl. 19th 1806. This morning early we had our small canoes drawn
out, and employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs and
by means of the four pack horses, over the portage. This labour we had
accomplished by 3 P.M. and established our camp a little above the present
Skil-lute village which has been removed a few hundred yards lower down
the river than when we passed them last fall and like others below have
the floors of their summer dwellings on the surface of the earth instead
of those cellars in which they resided when we passed them. there was
great joy with the natives last night in consequence of the arrival of the
salmon; one of those fish was caught; this was the harbinger of good news
to them. they informed us that these fish would arrive in great quantities
in the course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being divided
into small peices was given to each child in the village. this custom is
founded in a supersticious opinon that it will hasten the arrival of the
salmon. with much difficulty we obtained four other horses from the
Indians today, we wer obliged to dispence with two of our kettles in order
to acquire those. we have now only one small kettle to a mess of 8 men. in
the evening Capt. Clark set out with four men to the Enesher village at
the grand falls in order to make a further attempt to procure horses.
these people are very faithless in their contracts. they frequently
receive the merchandize in exchange for their horses and after some hours
insist on some additional article being given them or revoke the exchange.
they have pilfered several small articles from us this evening. — I
directed the horses to be hubbled & suffered to graize at a little
distance from our camp under the immediate eye of the men who had them in
charge. one of the men Willard was negligent in his attention to his horse
and suffered it to ramble off; it was not to be found when I ordered the
others to be brought up and confined to the picquits. this in addition to
the other difficulties under which I laboured was truly provoking. I
repremanded him more severely for this peice of negligence than had been
usual with me. I had the remaining horses well secured by picquits; they
were extreemly wrestless and it required the attention of the whole guard
through the night to retain them notwithstanding they were bubbled and
picquted. they frequently throwed themselves by the ropes by which they
were confined. all except one were stone horse for the people in this
neighbourhood do not understand the art of gelding them, and this is a
season at which they are most vicious. many of the natives remained about
our camp all night.
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
April 19th 1806 this morning early Some rain had the Small Canoes hauled
out to dry every man Capable of Carrying a load Comencd the portage and by
5 P. M had every part of our baggage and canoes across the portage. I then
took Sgt. Pryor, G. Shannon & Crusat & Labiech and went up to the
falls at which place I arivd. about 8 P.M. in the Course of this day I
purchased 4 horses at the town & Capt Lewis purchased one. the nativs
finding that we were about to proceed on by water Sold us those fiew
horses for which we were Compd. to pay them emence prices and the horses
were indefferent. Several Showers of rain this day. description of those
people &c narrows bad
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th April 1806. We deturmined to make the portage to the head of
the long narrows with our baggage and 5 Small Canoes, the 2 large Canoes
we Could take no further and therefore Cut them up for fuel. we had our
Small Canoes drawn up very early and employed all hands in transporting
our baggage on their backs and by means of 4 pack horses, over the
portage. This labour we had accomplished by 3 P.M. and established our
Camp a little above the present Skillute village which has been removed as
before observed a fiew hundred yards lower down the river than when we
passed it last fall. I left Capt L. at the bason and proceeded to the
village early this morning with a view to recive the horses which were
promised to be brought this morning for articles laid by last evining. in
the Course of this day I purchased four horses at the Village, and Capt
Lewis one at the bason before he left it. after the baggage was all Safely
landed above the portage, all hands brought over the Canoes at 2 lodes
which was accomplished by 5 P.M. as we had not a Sufficiency of horses to
transport our baggage we agreed that I should proceed on to the Enesher
villages at the great falls of the Columbia and if possible purchase as
maney horses as would transport the baggage from that place, and rid us of
the trouble and dificuelty of takeing our Canoes further. I set out with
Serjt Pryor, Geo Shannon Peter Crusat & Labiech at half past 5 P.M.
for the Enesher Village at which place I arrived at 8 P.M. Several Showers
of rain in the after part of to day, and the S W wind very high. there was
great joy with the nativs last night in consequence of the arrival of the
Salmon; one of those fish was cought, this was the harbenger of good news
to them. They informed us that those fish would arive in great quantities
in the Course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed and being divided
into Small pieces was given to each Child in the village. this Custom is
founded on a Supersticious opinion that it will hasten the arrival of the
Salmon.
we were oblige to dispence with two of our kitties in order to acquire two
of the horses purchasd. to day. we have now only one Small kittle to a
mess of 8 men. These people are very fathless in Contracts; they
frequently reive the merchindize in exchange for their horses and after
Some hours insist on Some additional article being given them or revoke
the exchange.
The long narrows are much more formadable than they were when we decended
them last fall, there would be no possibility of passing either up or down
them in any vessle at this time.
I entered the largest house of the Eneeshers village in which I found all
the enhabitents in bead. they rose and made a light of Straw, they haveing
no wood to burn. many men Collected. we Smoked and I informed them that I
had come to purchase a fiew horses of them. they promused to Sell me Some
in the morning.
[Lewis, April 20, 1806]
Sunday April 20th 1806. some frost this morning. The Enesher an Skillutes
are much better clad than they were last fall, there men have generally
legings mockersons and large robes; many of them wear shirts of the same
form with those of the Shoshone Chopunnish &c highly ornamented with
porcupine quills. the dress of their women differs very little from those
of the great rapids and above. their children frequently wear robes of the
large grey squirrel skins, those of the men and women are principally deer
skins, some wolf, elk, bighorn and buffaloe; the latter they procure from
the nations who sometimes visit the Missouri. indeed a considerable
poportion of their wearing apparel is purchased from their neighbours to
the N. W. in exchange for pounded fish copper and beads. at present the
principal village of the Eneshur is below the falls on the N. side of the
river. one other village is above the falls on the S. side and another a
few miles above on the N. side. the first consists of 19, the 2cd of 11,
and the 3rd of 5 lodges. their houses like those of the Skillutes have
their floors on the surface of the ground, but are formed of sticks and
covered with mats and straw. they are large and contain usually several
families each for fuel they use straw, small willows and the southern
wood. they use the silk grass in manufacturing their fishing nets and
bags, the bear grass and cedar bark are employed in forming a variety of
articles. they are poor, dirty, proud, haughty, inhospitable, parsimonious
and faithless in every rispect, nothing but our numbers I beleive prevents
their attempting to murder us at this moment.
This morning I was informed that the natives had pilfered six tommahawks
and a knife from the party in the course of the last night. I spoke to the
cheif on this subject. he appeared angry with his people and addressed
them but the property was not restored. one horse which I had purchased
and paid for yesterday and which could not be found when I ordered the
horses into close confinement yesterday I was now informed had been
gambled away by the rascal who had sold it to me and had been taken away
by a man of another nation. I therefore took the goods back from this
fellow. I purchased a gun from the cheif for which I gave him 2 Elkskins.
in the course of the day I obtained two other indifferent horses for which
I gave an extravigant price. I found that I should get no more horses and
therefore resolved to proceed tomorrow morning with those which I had and
to convey the baggage in two small canoes that the horses could not carry.
for this purpose I had a load made up for seven horses, the eighth Bratton
was compelled to ride as he was yet unable to walk. I barted my Elkskins
old irons and 2 canoes for beads. one of the canoes for which they would
give us but little I had cut up for fuel. These people have yet a large
quantity of dryed fish on hand yet they will not let us have any but for
an exorbitant price. we purchased two dogs and some shappellel from them.
I had the horses graized untill evening and then picquited and bubbled
within the limits of our camp. I ordered the indians from our camp this
evening and informed them that if I caught them attempting to perloin any
article from us I would beat them severely. they went off in reather a bad
humour and I directed the party to examine their arms and be on their
guard. they stole two spoons from us in the course of the day. The
Scaddals, Squan-nan-os, Shan-wah-purrs and Shallattas reside to the N. W.
of these people, depend on hunting deer and Elk and trade with these
people for ther pounded fish.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
April 20th 1806 This morning very Cold hills covered with Snow. I Showed
the nativs what I had to give for their horses and attempted to purchase
them. they informed me that they would not Sell any horses to me, that
their horses were at a long ways off and they would not trade them. my
offer was a blue robe, Callico Shirt, a handkerchef, 5 parcels of paint a
Knife, a wampom moon 4 braces of ribin, a pice of Brass and about 6 braces
of yellow heeds; and to that amount for what I had I also offered my large
blue blanket for one, my Coat Sword & Plume none of which Seem to
entice those people to give horses if they had any. they Set in their huts
which is of mats Supported on poles without fire. at night when they wish
a light they burn dry Straw & Some fiew Small dry willows. they Speak
defferent from those below, have but little to eate. Some roots &
Dryed fish is to be found in their houses. I am half frozed at this
inhospitable Village which is moved from its position above the falls to
one below and Contains 19 large houses, a village is also established on
the other Side imedeately above the falls. all the natives who was
established above the Falls for Some distance has removed Those people are
much better dressed than they were at the time we went down the river.
They have all new, Deer, Elk, Ibex Goat & wolf Skin robes, their
Children also the large squirel Skin robes, maney of them have Legins and
mockersons, all of which they precure of the Indians at a distance in
exchange for their pounded fish & Beeds, they also purchase Silk
grass, of which they make their nets & Sales for takeing fish they
also purchase Bear grass and maney other things for their fish. those
people gave me roots and berries prepared in different ways for which I
gave some Small articles in return.Great numbers of Skiming knets on
their houses. Those people are Pore and Kind durty & indolt. They ware
their hair loose flowing the men cut in the foward which the Skilloots do
not &c. &c.
I could not precure a Single horse of those people, dureing this day at
any price, they offered me 2 for 2 kittles of which we Could not spear. I
used every artifice decent & even false Statements to enduce those
pore devils to Sell me horses. in the evening two different men offered to
Sell me three horses which they informed me was a little distance off and
they would bring them imediately. those two persons as I found went
imediately off up the river to their tribe without any intention to find
or Sell their horses. a little before Sunset 3 men arived from Some
distance above and informed me that they Came to See me. at Sunset finding
no probability of Capt Lewis arival, packed up the articles and took them
into the lodge in which I lay last night. Great numbers of those people
geathered around me to Smoke. I gave them 2 pipes and lay down in the back
part of the house with Sgt. P. & the men with our arms in a Situation
as to be ready in case of any alarm. those pore people appear entirely
harmless — I purchased a dog and Some wood with a little pounded fish
and Chappaless. made a fire on the rocks and Cooked the dogs on which the
men breckfast & Dined. wind hard all day cold from N W.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th April 1806 a very cold morning the western mountains Covered
with Snow I Shewed the Eneshers the articles I had to give for their
horses. they without hezitation informed me that they would not Sell me
any for the articles I had, if I would give them Kitties they would let me
have horses, and not without. that their horses were at a long ways off in
the planes and they would not Send for them &c. my offer was a blue
robe, a Calleco Shirt, a Silk handkerchief, 5 parcels of paint, a knife, a
Wampom moon, 8 yards of ribon, Several pieces of Brass, a mockerson awl
and 6 braces of yellow beeds; and to that amount for each horse which is
more than double what we gave either the Sohsohne or first flat heads we
met with on Clarks river I also offered my large blue blanket, my Coat
Sword & plume none of which Seamed to entice those people to Sell
their horses. not with standing every exertion not a Single horse Could be
precured of those people in the Course of the day. Those people are much
better Clad than they were last fall, their men have generally legins
mockersons and large robes. maney of them ware Shirts of the Same form of
those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone highly ornimented with porcupine
quills. the dress of their winen differs verry little from those above the
great rapids. their Children have Small robes of the Squirel Skins. those
of the men & women are principally deer, Some elk, wolf, Ibix &
buffalow which they precure from distant nations who purchase their
Pounded fish in exchange for those robes & Beeds. The principal
village of the Enesher nation is imedeately below the falls on the N.
Side. one other village of the Same nation above the falls on the opposit
Side and one other a few miles above on the North Side. — The Houses
of those people like the Skillutes have the flores of their Summer
dwelling on the Surface of the earth in Sted of those Sellers in which
they resided when we passed them last fall. those houses are Covered with
mats and Straw are large and Contain Several families each. I counted 19
at this Village & 11 on the opposit Side. those people are pore durty
haughty. they burn Straw and Small willows. have but little to eate and
deer with what they have. they precure the Silk grass of which they make
their nets, the bear grass for makeing their mats and Several other
necessary of the Indians of the following nations who trade with them as
also the Skillutes for their pounded fish. Viz. Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os,
Shan-wappoms, Shall-lat-tos, who reside to the north and Several bands who
reside on the Columbia above. — I precured a Sketch of the Columbia
and its branches of those people in which they made the river which falls
into the Columbia imediately above the falls on the South Side to branch
out into 3 branches one of which they make head in Mt.jefferson, one in
mount Hood and the other in the S W. range of Mountains and does not water
that extensive Country we have heretofore Calculated on. a great portion
of that extensive tract of Country to the S. and S. W. of the Columbia and
Lewis's river and between the Same and the waters of Callifornia must be
watered by the Multnomah river. — See Sketch in the latter part of
this book (No. 5). Those people are great jokies and deciptfull in trade.
at Sunset finding that Capt Lewis would not arrive this evening as I
expected, I packed up all the articles which I had exposed, at a Situation
I had pitched on to Encamp, and at which place we had bought as maney
fishing poles as made a fire to Cook a dog which I had purchased for the
men to eate, and returned to the lodge which I had Slept in last night.
great number gathered around me to Smoke, I gave them two pipes, and then
lay my self down with the men to Sleep, haveing our merchendize under our
heads and guns &c in our arms, as we always have in Similar Situations
[Lewis, April 21, 1806]
Monday April 21st 1806. Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken
with rispect to the horses one of them had broken his cord of 5 strands of
Elkskin and had gone off spanseled. I sent several men in surch of the
horse with orders to return at 10 A.M. with or without the horse being
determined to remain no longer with these villains. they stole another
tomahawk from us this morning I surched many of them but could not find
it. I ordered all the spare poles, paddles and the ballance of our canoe
put on the fire as the morning was cold and also that not a particle
should be left for the benefit of the indians. I detected a fellow in
stealing an iron socket of a canoe pole and gave him several severe blows
and mad the men kick him out of camp. I now informed the indians that I
would shoot the first of them that attempted to steal an article from us.
that we were not affraid to fight them, that I had it in my power at that
moment to kill them all and set fire to their houses, but it was not my
wish to treat them with severity provided they would let my property
alone. that I would take their horses if I could find out the persons who
had stolen the tommahawks, but that I had reather loose the property
altogether than take the hose of an inosent person. the chiefs were
present hung their heads and said nothing. at 9 A.M. Windsor returned with
the lost horse, the others who were in surch of the horse soon after
returned also. the Indian who promised to accompany me as far as the
Chopunnish country produced me two horses one of which he politely gave me
the liberty of packing. we took breakfast and departed a few minutes after
10 OClock. having nine horses loaded and one which Bratton rode not being
able as yet to march; the two canoes I had dispatched early this morning.
at 1 P.M. I arrived at the Enesher Village where I found Capt Clark and
party; he had not purchased a single horse. he informed me that these
people were quite as unfriendly as their neighbours the Skillutes, and
that he had subsisted since he left me on a couple of platters of pounded
roots and fish which an old man had the politeness to offer him. his party
fared much better on dogs which he purchased from those people. the man
resided here from whom I had purchased the horse which ran off from me
yesterday. I had given him a large kettle and a knife in exchange for that
horse which I informed him should be taken from him unles he produced me
the lost horse or one of equal value in his stead, the latter he prefered
and produced me a very good horse which I very cheerfully received. we
soon made the portage with our canoes and baggage and halted about 1/2 a
mile above the Village where we graized our horses and took dinner on some
dogs which we purchased of these people. after dinner we proceeded on
about four miles to a village of 9 mat lodges of the Enesher a little
below the entrance of Clark's river and encamped; one of the canoes joined
us the other not observing us halt continued on. we obtained two dogs and
a small quantity of fuel of these people for which we were obliged to give
a higher price than usual. our guide continued with us, he appears to be
an honest sincere fellow. he tells us that the indians a little above will
treat us with much more hospitality than those we are now with. we
purchased another horse this evening but his back is in such a horid state
that we can put but little on him; we obtained him for a trifle, at least
for articles which might be procured in the U States for 10 shillings
Virga Cory. we took the precaution of piquting and spanseling our horses
this evening near our camp.
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
April 21st 1806 a fair Cold morning. I find it useless to offer any
articles or attempt to trade at this village and therefore deturmine to
____ before I rose the house was Crouded with Indians to Smoke I gave them
none. they are well Supplied with Straw & bark bags ready to hold
their pounded fish. at 12 oClock the advance of the party from below
arived and Soon after the Canoes all things were taken above the falls
& 2 Canoes, turned out the horss and Cooked & Eat 2 dogs which we
purchased of the nativs, purchased one horse for Which we are to give a
Kittle which was given by us to a man for a horse 3 days past &c. the
horse was either taken or Strayed off. The Chief from below Came up and
appeared Concerned for what had been done at his Village (See Journal)
a 4 P M loaded up & Set out the Canoes also proceed on about 3 miles
opposit to the Mouth of Clarks river, and an Indian man who has attached
himself to us and who has lent us a horse to pack & lives near the
Rocky mountains. he told us that as the day was far Spent we had better
Camp at a village of 9 Lodges a little off the road opsd. the River
CClarks This river has a great falls above 2 forks on its West Side. we
formed a Camp purchased Some wood & 3 dogs for which we gave pewter
buttons which buttons we had made &c. but fiew Indians with us this
evining purchased an old horse and tied up all the horses when we went to
bed
Those are the Same people with those below at the falls. See journal for
the next day-
Skad data ill looking people reside to the N about 18 or 20 miles they
played against the Skillutes a game they Call ____ 9 of a Side and lost
all the beeds & other articles
also a Single game with 2 black & 2 white Sticks under a kind of hat.
2 men played this game is intricit and each party has 4 pegs to count it
The former game is played with 2 bones or Sticks about the Size of a large
quill and 2 inches long passing from one hand to the other and the adverse
party guess. See description before mentioned. The nations abov at the
falls also play this game and bet high
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
Monday 21st April 1806 A fair Cold morning I found it useless to make any
further attempts to trade horses with those unfriendly people who only
Crouded about me to view and make their remarks and Smoke, the latter I
did not indulge them with to day. at 12 oClock Capt Lewis and party Came
up from the Skillutes Village with 9 horses packed and one which bratten
who was yet too weak to walk, rode, and Soon after the two Small Canoes
also loaded with the residue of the baggage which Could not be taken on
horses. we had everry thing imedeately taken above the falls, in the mean
time purchased 2 Dogs on which the party dined — whilst I remained at
the Enesher Village I Subsisted on 2 platters of roots, Some pounded fish
and Sun flour Seed pounded which an old man had the politeness to give me.
in return for which I gave him Several Small articles-.
Capt Lewis informed me that imedeately after I left him the nativs began
to Steal and had Stolen Tomahawks of the party, and in the Course of the
night had let our horses loose he had burnt one and Sold 2 of the largest
Canoes for beeds, the other 2 brought on. an indian was detected in
Stealing a socket and was kicked out of Camp. Capt L. informed the Indians
that the next man who attempted to steal Should be Shot and thretened them
and informed them that he could kill them in a moment and Set their town
on fire if he pleased. but it was not his desire to hurt them Severly if
they would let the property of the party alone. the Chiefs hung their
heads and Said nothing. he lost the horse that was given for a large
kittle, and a Chopunnish man lent a horse to carry a load and accompanied
the party — The man who we had reason to believe had Stolen the horse
he had given for the Kittle we thretend a little and he produced a very
good horse in the place of that one which we Chearfully receved.
after dinner we proceeded on about 4 Miles to a Village of 9 Mat Lodges of
the Enesher, a little below the enterance of To war nah hi ooks river and
encamped. one of the Canoes joined us, the other not haveing observed us
halt continued on. We obtained 2 Dogs and a Small quantity of fuel of
those people for which we were obliged to give a higher price than usial.
our guide continued with us, he appears to be an honest fellow. he tels us
that the indians above will treat us with much more hospitallity than
those we are now with. we purchased another horse this evening but his
back is in Such a horrid State that we Can put but little on him; we
obtained him for a triffle, at least for articles which might be precured
in the U. States for 10 Currency — we took the precaution of
picqueting and Spancelling our horses this evening near our Camp. the
evening Cold and we Could afford only one fire.
[Lewis, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday April 22cd 1806. Last night two of our horses broke loos from the
picquits and straggled off some little distance, the men who had charge of
them fortunately recovered them early. at 7 A.M. we set out having
previously sent on our small Canoe with Colter and Potts. we had not
arrived at the top of a hill over which the road leads opposite the
village before Charbono's horse threw his load, and taking fright at the
saddle and robe which still adhered, ran at full speed down the hill, near
the village he disengaged himself from the saddle and robe, an indian hid
the robe in his lodge. I sent our guide and one man who was with me in the
rear to assist Charbono in retaking his horse which having done they
returned to the village on the track of the horse in surch of the lost
articles they found the saddle but could see nothing of the robe the
indians denyed having seen it; they then continued on the track of the
horse to the place from whence he had set out with the same success. being
now confident that the Indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman on to
request Capt. C. to halt the party and send back some of the men to my
assistance being determined either to make the indians deliver the robe or
birn their houses. they have vexed me in such a manner by such repeated
acts of villany that I am quite disposed to treat them with every
severyty, their defenseless state pleads forgivness so far as rispects
their lives. with this resolution I returned to their village which I had
just reached as Labuish met me with the robe which he informed me he found
in an Indian lodg hid behind their baggage. I now returned and joined Capt
Clark who was waiting my arrival with the party. the Indian woman had not
reached Capt C. untill about the time I arrived and he returned from a
position on the top of a hill not far from where he had halted the party.
from the top of this emmenense Capt. C. had an extensive view of the
country. he observed the range of mountains in which Mount Hood stands to
continue nearly south as far as the eye could reach. he also observed the
snow clad top of Mount Jefferson which boar S. 10 W. Mount Hood from the
same point boar S. 30 W. the tops of the range of western mountains are
covered with snow. Capt C. also discovered some timbered country in a
Southern direction from him at no great distance. Clarks river which
mouths immediately opposite this point of view forks at the distance of 18
or 20 miles from hence, the wright hand fork takes it rise in mount Hood,
and the main branch continues it's course to the S. E.
we now made the following regulations as to our future order of march
(viz) that Capt. C. & myself should devide the men who were
disencumbered by horses and march alternately each day the one in front
and the other in rear. haveing divided the party agreeably to this
arrangement, we proceeded on through an open plain country about 8 miles
to a village of 6 houses of the Eneshur nation, here we observed our 2
canoes passing up on the opposite side; the wind being too high for them
to pass the river they continued on. we halted at a small run just above
the village where we dined on some dogs which we purchased of the
inhabitants and suffered our horses to graize about three hours. there is
no timber in this country we are obliged to purchase our fuel of the
natives, who bling it from a great distance. while we halted for dinner we
purch a horse. after dinner we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to
a village of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned nation. here our
Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village was at a considerable
distance and that we could not reach it tonight. the people at this place
offered to sell us wood and dogs, and we therefore thought it better to
remain all night. a man blonging to the next village abovd proposed
exchanging a horse for one of our canoes, just at this moment one of our
canoes was passing. we hailed them and ordered them to come over but the
wind continued so high that they could not join us untill after sunset and
the Indian who wished to exchange his horse for the canoe had gone on.
Charbonoe purchased a horse this evening. we obtained 4 dogs and as much
wood as answered our purposes on moderate terms. we can only afford
ourselves one fire, and are obliged to lie without shelter, the nights are
cold and days warm. Colter and Pots had passed on with their canoe.
[Clark, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of April 1806 last night 2 of our horses broke loose and
Strayed of at a Short dis-tance. at 7 oClock we loaded up and Set out,
haveing previously Sent off the Canoe with Colter and Potts we had not
arived at the top of the hill which is 200 feet before Shabonos horse
threw off his load and went with great Speed down the hill to the Village
where he disengaged himself of his Saddle & the robe which was under
it, the Indians hid the robe and delayed Capt. Lewis and the rear party
Some time before they found the robe which was in a lodge hid behind their
baggage, and took possession of it. dureing the time the front of the
party was waiting for Cap Lewis, I assended a high hill from which I could
plainly See the range of Mountains which runs South from Mt. Hood as far
as I could See. I also discovered the top of Mt. Jefferson which is
Covered with Snow and is S to W. Mt. Hood is S. 30° W. the range of
mountains are Covered with timber and also Mt Hood to a sertain bite. The
range of Mountains has Snow on them. I also discovered some timbered land
in a S. detection from me, Short of the mountains. Clarks river which
mouthes imedeately opposit to me forks at about 18 or 20 miles, the West
fork runs to the Mt Hood and the main branch Runs from S. E. after Capt
Lewis Came up we proceeded on through a open ruged plain about 8 miles to
a Village of 6 Houses on the river. here we observed our 2 Canoes passing
up on the opposit Side and the Wind too high for them to join us. I halted
at the mouth of a run above the village near Some good grass to let the
horses graze and for the party to dine. Sent to the huts and purchased a
dog & Some wood. dureing the time the party was takeing diner we
purchased one horse. after we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a
village of 7 mat Lodges. here our Chopunnish guide informed me that the
next villg. was at Some distance and that we Could not get to it to night,
and that there was no wood to be precured on this Side. a man offered to
Sell us a horse for a Canoe. just at the moment we discovered one of our
Canoes on the opposit Side. we concluded to Camp here all night with the
expectation of precureing some horses. Sent and purchased Some wood and 4
dogs & Shapillele. Shabono purchased a hors for which he gave a red
rapper, Shirt, ploom & Tomahawk &c. the party purchased a great
quantity of Chapellell and Some berries for which they gave bits of Tin
and Small pieces of Cloth & wire &c. had our horses led out and
held to grass untill dusk when they were all brought to Camp, and pickets
drove in the ground and the horses tied up. we find the horses very
troublesom perticularly the Stud which Compose 10/13 of our number of
horses. the air I find extreemly Cold which blows Continularly from Mt.
Hoods Snowey regions. those Indians reside in Small Lodges built of the
mats of Grass, flags &c. and Crouded with inhabitents, who Speak a
language Somewhat different from those at the falls. their dress habits
and appearance appear to be very much the Same with those below. we made
14 miles to day with the greatest exirtion. Serjt. Gass & R. Fields
joined us with one Canoe this evening. the other Canoe with Colter &
pots is a head.
[Lewis, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday April 23rd 1806. At day light this morning we were informed that
the two horses of our Interpreter Charbono were absent; on enquiry it
appeared that he had neglected to confine them to picquts as had been
directed last evening. we immediately dispatched Reubin Feilds and Labuish
to assist Charbono in recovering his horses. one of them was found at no
great distance and the other was given over as lost. at 8 A.M. Reuben
Feilds and Sergt. Gass proceeded in the canoe. at 10 Labuish and Charbono
returned unsuccessfull, they had gone back on the road nearly to the last
village and suched the plains on either hand to a considerable distance.
our remaining longer would have prevented our making a timely stage which
in our situation is all important; we therefore determined to proceed
immediately to the next village which from the information of our guide
will occupy the greater part of the day to reach at eleven OCk. we loaded
our horses and set out. during the time we were detained this morning we
had two packsaddles made. we continued our march along a narrow rocky
bottom on the N. side of the river about 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum
Village of 12 temperary mat lodges near the Rock rapid. these people
appeared much pleased to see us, sold us 4 dogs and some wood for our
small articles which we had previously prepared as our only resource to
obtain fuel and food through those plains. these articles conisted of
pewter buttons, strips of tin iron and brass, twisted wire &c. we also
obtained some shap-pe-lell newly made from these people. here we met with
a Chopunnish man on his return up the river with his family and about 13
head of horses most of them young and unbroken. he offered to hire us some
of them to pack as far a his nation, but we prefer bying as by hireing his
horses we shal have the whole of his family most probably to mentain. at a
little distance below this village we passed five lodges of the same
people who like those were waiting the arrival of the salmon. after we had
arranged our camp we caused all the old and brave men to set arround and
smoke with us. we had the violin played and some of the men danced; after
which the natives entertained us with a dance after their method. this
dance differed from any I have yet seen. they formed a circle and all sung
as well the spectators as the dancers who performed within the circle.
these placed their sholders together with their robes tightly drawn about
them and danced in a line from side to side, several parties of from 4 to
seven will be performing within the circle at the same time. the whole
concluded with a premiscuous dance in which most of them sung and danced.
these people speak a language very similar to the Chopunnish whome they
also resemble in their dress their women wear long legings mockersons
shirts and robes. their men also dress with legings shirts robes and
mockersons. after the dance was ended the Indians retired at our request
and we retired to rest. we had all our horses side bubbled and turned out
to graize; at this village, a large creek falls in on the N. side which we
did not observe as we decended the river. the river is by no means as
rapid as when we decended or at least not obstructed with those dangerous
rapids the water at present covers most of the rocks in the bed of the
river. the natives promised to barter their horses with us in the morning
we therefore entertained a hope that we shall be enabled to proceede by
land from hence with the whole of our party and baggage. came 12 miles by
land. the sands made the march fatieguing.
[Clark, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd 1806 at day light this morning we were informed that the
two horses of our interpreter Shabono were missing on enquirey we were
informed that he had neglected to tie up his horses as derected last
evening. we imedeately dispatch him, R. Fields & Labiech in Serch of
the horses, one of them were found at no great distance. the other was not
found. R. Fields retd. without finding the horse Set out with Sergt Gass
in the Small Canoe at about 8 A M. at 10 Shabono and Labiech returned also
unsucksessfull they had went on the back trail nearly to the last Village
and took a circle around on the hills. as our Situation was Such that we
Could not detain for a horse, which would prevent our makeing a timely
Stage which is a great object with us in those open plains, we Concluded
to give up the horse and proceed on to the next village which we were
informed was at Some distance and would take us the greater part of the
day. at 11 A.M. we packed up and Set out and proceeded up on the N. Side
of the Columbia on a high narrow bottom and rockey for 12 miles to the
Wah-how-pum village near the rock rapid of 12 temporary mat Lodges, those
people appeared pleased to See us. they Sold us 4 dogs Some Shapollell and
wood for our Small articles Such as awls pieces of Tin and brass. we
passed Several Lodges on the bank of the river where they were fixed
waiting for the Salmon. I over took a Choponish man whome I had Seen at
the long, and who had found a bag of our powder and brought it to me at
that place. this man had his family on the ____ and about 3 head of horses
which appeared young and unbroke. his spous as also that of the other gave
me a Cake of Chapellell and proceeded on with me to the Wah howpum Village
and formed his Camp near us. we Caused all the old & brave men to Set
around and Smoke with us. we Caused the fiddle to be played and Some of
the men danced. after them the nativs danced. they dance different from
any Indians I have Seen. they dance with their Sholders together and pass
from Side to Side, defferent parties passing each other, from 2 to 7. and
4 parties danceing at the Same time and Concluding the dance by passing
promiscuisly throu & beetween each other. after which we Sent of the
Indians and retired to bed. Those people Speak a language verry Similal to
the Chopunish and with a very inconsiderable difference. their dress and
appearance is more like those of the Great falls of the Columbia. we had
all our horses Side hobbled and let out to feed. at this village a large
Creek falls in on the N. Side which I had not observed as I decended the
river. the river is by no means as rapid as it was at the time we
decended. The nativs promised to give is a horse for one of our Canoes.
and offer to Sell us another for a Scarlet robe which we have not at
present. Shabono made a bargin with one of the Indian men going with us,
for a horse for Which he gave his Shirt. and two of the leather Sutes of
his wife. The Sand through which we walked to day is So light that renders
the march verry fatigueing. made 12 miles by land.
[Lewis, April 24, 1806]
Thursday April 24 th 1806. We were up early this morning and dispatched
the men in surch of our horses, they were all found in a little time
except McNeal's. we hired an indian to surch for this horse it was one in
the evening before he returned with him. in the intermediate time we had 4
packsaddles made purchased three horses of the Wah-howpums, and hired
three others of the Chopunnish man who accompanys us with his family and
horses. we now sold our canoes for a few strands of beads, loaded up and
departed at 2 P.M. the natives had tantalized us with an exchange of
horses for our canoes in the first instance, but when they found that we
had made our arrangements to travel by land they would give us nothing for
them I determined to cut them in peices sooner than leave them on those
terms, Drewyer struck one of the canoes and split of a small peice with
his tommahawk, they discovered us determined on this subject and offered
us several strands of beads for each which were accepted. we proceeded up
the river between the hills and it's Northen shore. the road was rocky and
sandy alternately, the road difficult and fatiegu-ing. at 12 ms. we
arrived at a village of 5 lodges of the Met-cow-wes, having passed 4
lodges at 4 and 2 at 2 Ms. further. we ramined all night near the
Met-cow-we lodges about 2 miles below our encampment of the ____ of
October last; we purchased three dogs and some shappellel of these people
which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs. many of the natives
pased and repassed us today on the road and behaved themselves with
distant rispect towards us. most of the party complain of the soarness of
their feet and legs this evening; it is no doubt caused by walking over
the rough stones and deep sands after bing for some months passed been
accustomed to a soft soil. my left ankle gives me much pain. I baithed my
feet in cold water from which I experienced considerable releif. The
curloos are abundant in these plains and are now laying their eggs. saw
the Kildee, the brown lizzard, and a Moonax which the natives had petted.
the winds which set from Mount Hood or in a westerly direction are much
more cold than those from the opposite quarter. there are now no dews in
these plains, and from the appearance of the earth there appears to have
been no rain for several weeks. — we derected that the three horses
which we purchased yesterday should be bubbled and confined to a picqut,
and that the others should be disposed of in the same manner they were
last evening.
[Clark, April 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th April 1806 rose early this morning and Sent out after the
horses all of which were found except McNeals which I hired an Indian to
find and gave him a Tomahawk had 4 pack Saddles made ready to pack the
horses which we may purchase. we purchased 3 horses, and hired 3 others of
the Chopunnish man who accompanies us with his family, and at 1 P.M. Set
out and proceeded on through a open Countrey rugid & Sandy between
Some high lands and the river to a village of 5 Lodges of the Met-cow-we
band haveing passed 4 Lodges at 4 miles and 2 Lodges at 6 miles. Great
numbers of the nativs pass us on hors back maney meet us and Continued
with us to the Lodges. we purchased 3 dogs which were pore, but the
fattest we Could precure, and Cooked them with Straw and dry willow. we
Sold our Canoes for a fiew Strands of beeds. the nativs had tantelized us
with an exchange of horses for our Canoes in the first instance, but when
they found that we had made our arrangements to travel by land they would
give us nothing for them. we Sent Drewyer to Cut them up, he Struck one
and Split her they discovered that we were deturmined to destroy the
Canoes and offered us Several Strans of beeds which were acceptd most of
the party Complain of their feet and legs this evening being very Sore. it
is no doubt Causd. by walking over the rough Stone and deep Sand after
being accustomed to a Soft Soil. my legs and feet give me much pain. I
bathed them in Cold water from which I experienced Considerable relief. we
directed that the 3 horses purchased yesterday should be hobbled and
confined to pickquets and that the others Should be Hobbled &
Spancled, and Strictly attended to by the guard made 12 miles to day.
[Lewis, April 25, 1806]
Friday April 25th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out
at 9 A.M. and proceeded on 11 ms. to the Village of the Pish-quit-pahs of
51 mat lodges where we arrived at 2 P.M. purchased five dogs and some wood
from them and took dinner. this village contains about 7 hundred souls.
most of those people were in the plains at a distance from the river as we
passed down last fall, they had now therefore the gratification of
beholding whitemen for the first time. while here they flocked arround us
in great numbers tho treated us with much rispect. we gave two medals of
the small size to their two principal Cheifs who were pointed out to us by
our Chopunnish fellow traveller and were acknowledged by the nation. we
exposed a few old clothes my dirk and Capt. C's swoard to barter for
horses but were unsuccessfull these articles constitute at present our
principal stock in trade. the Pish-quit-pahs insisted much on our
remaining with them all night, but sudry reasons conspired to urge our
noncomplyance with their wishes. we passed one house or reather lodge of
the Metcowwees about a mile above our encampment of the ____th of October
last the Pish-quit-pahs, may be considered hunters as well as fishermen as
they spend the fall and winter months in that occupation. they are
generally pleasently featured of good statue and well proportioned. both
women and men ride extreemly well. their bridle is usually a hair rope
tyed with both ends to the under jaw of the horse, and their saddle
consists of a pad of dressed skin stuffed with goats hair with wooden
stirups. almost all the horses which I have seen in possession of the
Indians have soar backs. the Pishquitpah women for the most part dress
with short shirts which reach to their knees long legings and mockersons,
they also use large robes; some of them weare only the truss and robe they
brade their hair as before discribed but the heads of neither male nor
female of this tribe are so much flattened as the nations lower down on
this river. at 4 P.M. we set out accompanyed by eighteen or twenty of
their young men on horseback. we continued our rout about nine miles where
finding as many willows as would answer our purposes for fuel we encamped
for the evening. the country we passed through was much as that of
yesterday. the river hills are about 250 feet high and generally abrupt
and craggey in many places faced with a perpendicular and solid rock. this
rock is black and hard. leve plains extend themselves from the tops of the
river hills to a great distance on either side of the river. the soil is
not as fertile as about the falls, tho it produces a low grass on which
the horses feed very conveniently. it astonished me to seed the order of
their horses at this season of the year when I knew that they had wintered
on the dry grass of the plains and at the same time road with greater
severity than is common among ourselves. I did not see a single horse
which could be deemed poor and many of them were as fat as seals. their
horses are generally good. this evining after we had encamped, we traded
for two horses with nearly the same articles we had offered at the
village; these nags Capt. C. and myself intend riding ourselves; haveing
now a sufficiency to transport with ease all our baggage and the packs of
the men. — we killed six ducks in the course of the day; one of them
was of a speceis which I had never before seen I therefore had the most
material parts of it reserved as a specimine, the leggs are yellow and
feet webbed as those of the duckandmallard. saw many common lizzards,
several rattlesnakes killed by the party, they are the same as those
common to the U States. the horned Lizzard is also common. — had the
fiddle played at the request of the natives and some of the men danced. we
passed five lodges of the Walldh wolldhs at the distance of 4 miles above
the Pishquitpahs.
[Clark, April 25, 1806]
Friday 25th of April 1806 This morning we Collected our horses very
conveniently and Set out at 9 A M and proceeded on to a village of
Pish-quit-pahs of 52 mat Lodges 11 miles this village Contains about 700
Soles here we turned out our horses and bought 5 dogs & some wood and
dined here we met with a Chief and gave him a Medal of the Small Size. we
passed a house a little above the place we encamped on the 20th of Octr.
1805. we offered to purchase with what articles we had Such as old Clothes
&c. emence numbers of those Indians flocked about us and behaved with
distant respect towards us. we attempted to purchase Some horses without
Suckcess. at 4 P. M Set out. I was in the rear and had not proceeded verry
far before one of the horses which we had hired of the Chopunnish, was
taken from Hall who I had directed to ride. he had fallen behind out of my
sight at the time. we proceeded on about 9 miles through a Country Similar
to that of yesterday and encamped below the mouth of a Small Creek we
passed at 4 miles a Village of 5 Mat Lodges of the War-war-wa Tribe. We
made a Chief and gave a medal to a Chief of each of those two tribes.
great numbers of the nativs accompanied us to our encampmt. The Curloos
are abundant in those plains & are now laying their eggs. Saw the
Kildee the brown Lizzard, and a moonax which the nativs had petted. the
Winds which Set from mount hood or in a westwardly direction are much more
cold than those from any other quarter. there are no dews in these plains,
and from the appearance of the earth there appears to have been no rain
for Several Weeks. The pish-quit pahs may be considered as hunters as well
as fishermen as they Spend the fall & winter months in that
occupation. they are generally pleasently featured of good Statue and well
proportiond. both women and men ride extreamly well. their bridle is
usially a hair rope tied with both ends to the under jaw of the horse, and
their Saddles Consist of a pad of dressed Skin Stuffed with goats hair
with wooden Sturreps. almost all the horses I have Seen in the poss ession
of the Indians have Sore backs.
The pishquitpahs women for the most part dress with Short Shirts which
reach to their knees long legins, and mockersons, they also use long
robes; Some of them weare only the truss and robe, they brade their hair
as before discribed but the heads of neither the male nor female of this
tribe are So much flattend as the nativs lower down on this river. we were
accompd. by 18 or 20 young men on horsback. we Continued our rout about 9
miles, where finding as maney Willows as would answer our purpose for fuel
we encamped for the night. the Country we passed through was Sandy
indifferent rocky and hills on the left. proceeded up on the North Side
the river hills are about 250 feet high & generally abrupt and Craggey
in maney places faced with a pirpendicular and Solid rock. this rock is
black and hard. leavel plains extend themselves from the top of the river
hills to a great distance on either Side of the river. the Soil is not as
fertile as about the falls tho it produces low grass on which the horses
feed very Conveniently. it astonished me to See the order of their horses
at this Season of the year when I know they had wintered on dry grass of
the plains and at the Same time rode with greater Severity than is Common
among ourselves. I did not See a Single horse which Could be deemed pore,
and maney of them were verry fat. their horses are generally good. this
evening after we had encamped we traded for two horses with nearly the
Same articles we had offered at the Village. these Nags Capt. L-s and
myself intend rideing ourselves; haveing now a Sufficency to transport
with ease all our baggage and the packs of the men. — we killed 6
ducks in the course of the day; one of them were of a Species I had never
before Seen. the legs yellow and feet wibbed as those of the
duckinmallard. Saw great numbers of Common Lizzard. Several rattle Snakes,
killed by the party, they are the Same as those Common to the U. States.
the Horned Lizzard is also Common. — a Chief over took us. we had the
fiddle played by the request of the nativs and Some of the men danced. I
think those plains are much more Sandy than any which I have Seen and the
road is a bed of loose Sand. made 20 miles.
[Lewis, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806. This morning early we set forward and at the
distance of three miles entered a low level plain country of great extent.
here the river hills are low and receede a great distance from the river
this low country commenced on the S. side of the river about 10 miles
below our encampment of last evening. these plains are covered with a
variety of herbatious plants, grass, and three speceis of shrubs
specimines of which I have preserved. at the distance of twelve miles we
halted near a few willows which afforded us a sufficient quantity of fuel
to cook our dinner which consisted of the ballance of the dogs we had
purchased yesterday evening and some jirked Elk. we were overtaken today
by several families of the natives who were traveling up the river with a
number of horses; they continued with us much to our annoyance as the day
was worm the roads dusty and we could not prevent their horses from
crouding in and breaking our order of mach without using some acts of
severity which we did not wish to commit. after dinner we continued our
march through the level plain near the river 16 Ms. and encamped about a
mile below three lodges of the Wollah wollah nation, and about 7 Ms. above
our encampment of the 19 of October last. after we encamped a little
Indian boy caught several chubbs with a bone in this form which he
substituted for a hook. these fish were of about 9 inches long small head
large abdomen, small where the tail joined the body, the tail wide long in
proportion and forked. the back and ventral fins were equadistant from the
head and had each 10 bony rays, the fns next the gills nine each and that
near the tail 12. the upper exceeded the under jaw, the latter is truncate
at the extremity and the tonge and pallet are smooth. the colour is white
on the sides and belley and a blewish brown on the back. the iris of the
eye is of a silvery colour and puple black. — we covered ourselves
partially this evening from the rain by means of an old tent.
[Clark, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806 This morning early we proceeded on and at the
distance of three miles entered a low leavel plain Country of great
extent. here the river hills are low and receed a great distance from the
river this low Country Comenced on the South Side about 10 miles below our
Encampment of the last night, those plains are Covered with a variety of
herbatious plants, Grass and 3 Species of Shrubs. at the distance of 12
miles halted near Some willows which afforded us a Sufficent quantity of
fuel to cook our dinner which Consisted of the ballance of the dogs we had
purchased yesterday evening and Some jerked Elk. we were over taken to day
by Several families of the nativs who were traveling up the river with a
Numr. of horses; they Continued with us much to our ennoyance as the day
was worm the roads dusty and we Could not prevent their horses Crouding in
and breaking our order of March without useing Some acts of Severty which
we did not wish to Commit. after dinner we Continued our march through a
leavel plain near the river 16 miles and encamped about a mile below 3
Lodges of the fritened band of the Wallah wallah nation, and about 7 miles
above our encampment of the 19th of Octr. last. after we encamped a little
Indian boy Cought Several Chubbs with a bone in this form which he
Substituted for a hook. those fish were of about 9 inches long. we Covered
our Selves perfectly this evening from the rain by means of an old tent.
Saw a Goat and a Small wolf at a distance to day. made 28 miles
[Lewis, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806. This morning we were detained untill 9 A.M. in
consequence of the absence of one of Charbono's horses. the horse at
length being recovered we set out and at the distance of fifteen miles
passed through a country similar to that of yesterday; the hills at the
extremity of this distance again approach the river and are rocky abrupt
and 300 feet high. we ascended the hill and marched through a high plain
for 9 miles when we again returned to the river, I now thought it best to
halt as the horses and men were much fatiegued altho had not reached the
Wallah wollah village as we had been led to beleive by our guide who
informed us that the village was at the place we should next return to the
river, and the consideration of our having but little provision had been
our inducement to make the march we had made this morning. we collected
some of the dry stalks of weeds and the stems of a shrub which resembles
the southern wood; made a small fire and boiled a small quantity of our
jerked meat on which we dined; while here the principal Cheif of the
Wallahwallahs joined us with six men of his nation. this Cheif by name
Yel-lept had visited us on the morning of the 19 of October at our
encampment a little below this place; we gave him at that time a small
medal, and promised him a larger one on our return. he appeared much
gratifyed at seeng us return, invited us to remain at his village three or
four days and assured us that we should be furnished with a plenty of such
food as they had themselves; and some horses to assist us on our journey.
after our scanty repast we continued our march accompanyed by Yellept and
his party to the village which we found at the distance of six miles
situated on the N. side of the river at the lower side of the low country
about 12 ms. below the entrance of Lewis's river. This Cheif is a man of
much influence not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring
tribes and nations. — This Village consists of 15 large mat lodges. at
present they seem to subsist principally on a speceis of mullet which
weigh from one to three lbs. and roots of various discriptions which these
plains furnish them in great abundance. they also take a few salmon trout
of the white kind. — Yellept haranged his village in our favour
intreated them to furnish us with fuel and provision and set the example
himself by bringing us an armfull of wood and a platter of 3 roasted
mullets. the others soon followed his example with rispect to fuel and we
soon found ourselves in possession of an ample stock. they birn the stems
of the shrubs in the plains there being no timber in their neighbourhood
of any discription. we purchased four dogs of these people on which the
party suped heartily having been on short allowance for near two days. the
indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved themselves
in every rispect extreemly well. the indians informed us that there was a
good road which passed from the columbia opposite to this village to the
entrance of the Kooskooske on the S. side of Lewis's river; they also
informed us, that there were a plenty of deer and Antelopes on the road,
with good water and grass. we knew that a road in that direction if the
country would permit would shorten our rout at least 80 miles. the indians
also informed us that the country was level and the road good, under these
circumstances we did not hesitate in pursuing the rout recommended by our
guide whos information was corroberated by Yellept & others. we
concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.
[Clark, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806. This morning we were detained untill 9 A M in
consequence of the absence of one of Shabono's horses. the horse being at
length recovered we Set out and to the distance of 15 miles passed through
a Country Similar to that of yesterday. (passed Muscle Shell rapid) and at
the experation of this distance again approached the river, and are rocky
abrupt and 300 feet high. we assended the hill and marched through a high
plain 10 miles where we again returned to the river. we halted altho we
had not reached the Wal-lah-lal-lah village as we had been led to believe
by our guide who informed us that the village was at the place we Should
next return to the river, and the considiration of our haveing but little
provisions had been our inducement to make the march we had made this
morning. we collected Some of the dry stalks of weeds and the Stems of
Shrubs or weeds which resemble the Southern wood; made a Small fire and
boiled a Small quantity of our jurked meat on which we dined; while here
we were met by the principal Chief of the Wal lah wal lah Nation and
Several of his nation. this chief by name Yel lep-pet had visited us on
the morning of the 19th of Octr. at our encampment imedeately opposit to
us; we gave him at that time a Small Medal, and promised him a large one
on our return. he appeared much gratified at Seeing us return. he envited
us to remain at his village 3 or 4 days and assured us that we Should be
furnished with a plenty of Such food as they had themselves, and Some
horses to assist us on our journey. after our Scanty repast we Continued
our March accompanied by Yelleppit and his party to the Village which we
found at the distance of Six miles, Situated on the North Side of the
river. about 16 miles below the enterance of Lewis's river. This Chief is
a man of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the
neighbouring tribes and nations. — the village Consists of 15 large
mat Lodges. at present they Seam to Subsist principally on a Species of
Mullet which weighs from one to 3 pds. and roots of various discriptions
which those plains furnish them in great abundance. They also take a fiew
Salmon trout of the white kind. Yelleppet haranged his village in our
favor intreated them to furnish us with fuel & provisions and Set the
example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood, and a platter with 3
rosted mullets. the others Soon followed his example with respect to fuel
and we Soon found ourselves in possession of an ample Stock, they burn the
Stems of the Shrubs in the plains, there being no timber in this
neighbourhood of any description. we purchased 4 dogs of those people on
which the party Suped hartily haveing been on Short allowance for near 2
days. the Indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved
themselves in every respect very well. the Indians informed us that there
was a good road Which passed from the Columbia opposit to this Village to
the enterance of Kooskooske on the S. Side of Lewis's river, they also
informed us, there were a plenty of Deer and Antilopes on the road with
good water and grass. we knew that a road in that direction if the Country
would permit it would Shorten the rout at least 80 miles. the Indians also
inform us that the County was leavel and the road good, under those
circumstances we did not hesitate in pursueing the rout recommended by our
guide and Corroberated by Yetleppit and others. we Concluded to pass our
horses over early in the morning. made 31 miles to day
[Lewis, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806. This morning early Yellept brought a very eligant
white horse to our camp and presented him to Capt. C. signifying his wish
to get a kettle but on being informed that we had already disposed of
every kettle we could possibly spear he said he was content with whatever
he thought proper to give him. Capt. C. gave him his swoard a hundred
balls and powder and some sail articles with which he appeared perfectly
satisfyed. it was necessary before we entered on our rout through the
plains where we were to meet with no lodges or resident indians that we
should lay in a stock of provision and not depend altogether on the gun.
we directed Frazier to whom we have intrusted the duty of makeing those
purchases to lay in as many fat dogs as he could procure; he soon obtained
ten. being anxious to depart we requested the Cheif to furnish us with
canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with him this
day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would conset to remain
two or three, but he would not let us have canoes to leave him today. that
he had sent for the Chym nap'-pos his neighbours to come down and join his
people this evening and dance for us. we urged the necessity of our going
on immediately in order that we might the sooner return to them with the
articles which they wished but this had no effect, he said that the time
he asked could not make any considerable difference. I at length urged
that there was no wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good
order to pass our horses and if he would furnish us with canoes for that
purpose we would remain all night at our present encampment, to this
proposition he assented and soon produced us a couple of canoes by means
of which we passed our horses over the river safely and bubbled them as
usual. we found a Shoshone woman, prisoner among these people by means of
whome and Sahcahgarweah we found the means of conversing with the
Wollahwollahs. we conversed with them for several hours and fully
satisfyed all their enquiries with rispect to ourselves and the objects of
our pursuit. they were much pleased. they brought several diseased persons
to us for whom they requested some medical aid. one had his knee
contracted by the rheumatism, another with a broken arm &c to all of
which we administered much to the gratification of those poor wretches. we
gave them some eye-water which I beleive will render them more essential
service than any other article in the medical way which we had it in our
power to bestoe on them. soar eyes seem to be a universal complaint amonge
these people; I have no doubt but the fine sand of these plains and river
contribute much to this disorder. ulsers and irruptions of the skin on
various parts of the body are also common diseases among them. a little
before sunset the Chymnahpos arrived; they were about 100 men and a few
women; they joined the Wallahwollahs who were about the same number and
formed a half circle arround our camp where they waited very patiently to
see our party dance. the fiddle was played and the men amused themselves
with dancing about an hour. we then requested the Indians to dance which
they very cheerfully complyed with; they continued their dance untill 10
at night. the whole assemblage of indians about 550 men women and children
sung and danced at the same time. most of them stood in the same place and
merely jumped up to the time of their music. some of the men who were
esteemed most brave entered the space arrond which the main body were
formed in solid column, and danced in a circular manner sidewise. at 10
P.M. the dance concluded and the natives retired; they were much gratifyed
with seeing some of our party join them in their dance.
[Clark, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806 This morning early the Great Chief Yel lip pet
brought a very eligant white horse to our Camp and presented him to me
Signifying his wish to get a kittle but being informed that we had already
disposed of every kittle we could possibly Spare he Said he was Content
with what ever I thought proper to give him. I gave him my Swoard, 100
balls & powder and Some Small articles of which he appeared perfectly
Satisfied. it was necessary before we entered on our rout through the
plains where we were to meet with no lodges or resident Indians that we
Should lay in a Stock of provisions and not depend altogether on the gun.
we derected R. Frazer to whome we have intrusted the duty of makeing the
purchases, to lay in as maney fat dogs as he could procure; he Soon
obtained 10. being anxious to depart we requested the Chief to furnish us
with Canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with him
this day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would consent to
remain two or 3 days, but he would not let us have Canoes to leave him
this day. that he had Sent for the Chim-na-pums his neighbours to come
down and join his people this evening and dance for us. We urged the
necessity of our proceeding on imediately in order that we might the
Sooner return to them, with the articles which they wishd. brought to them
but this had no effect, he Said that the time he asked Could not make any
Considerable difference. I at length urged that there was no wind blowing
and that the river was consequently in good order to pass our horses and
if he would furnish us with Canoes for that purpose
we would remain all night at our present encampment, to this proposition
he assented and Soon produced a Canoe. I Saw a man who had his knee
Contracted who had previously applyed to me for Some Medisene, that if he
would fournish another Canoe I would give him Some Medisene. he readily
Consented and went himself with his Canoe by means of which we passed our
horses over the river Safely and hobbled them as usial-. We found a Sho
Sho ne woman, prisoner among those people by means of whome and Sah-cah
gah-weah, Shabono's wife we found means of Converceing with the
Wallahwallfirs. we Conversed with them for Several hours and fully Satisfy
all their enquiries with respect to our Selves and the Object of our
pursute. they were much pleased. they brought Several disordered persons
to us for whome they requested Some Medical aid. one had his knee
contracted by the Rhumitism (whome is just mentioned above) another with a
broken arm &c. to all of whome we administered much to the
gratification of those pore wretches, we gave them Some eye water which I
believe will render them more esential Sirvece than any other article in
the Medical way which we had it in our power to bestow on them Sore eyes
Seam to be a universial Complaint among those people; I have no doubt but
the fine Sands of those plains and the river Contribute much to the
disorder. The man who had his arm broken had it loosely bound in a peice
of leather without any thing to Surport it. I dressed the arm which was
broken Short above the wrist & Supported it with broad Sticks to keep
it in place, put in a Sling and furnished him with Some lint bandages
&c. to Dress it in future. a little before Sun Set the Chim nah poms
arrived; they were about 100 men and a fiew women; they joined the Wallah
wallahs who were about 150 men and formed a half Circle arround our camp
where they waited verry patiently to See our party dance. the fiddle was
played and the men amused themselves with danceing about an hour. we then
requested the Indians to dance which they very Chearfully Complyed with;
they Continued their dance untill 10 at night. the whole assemblage of
Indians about 350 men women and Children Sung and danced at the Same time.
most of them danced in the Same place they Stood and mearly jumped up to
the time of their musick. Some of the men who were esteemed most brave
entered the Space around which the main body were formed in Solid Column
and danced in a Circular manner Side wise. at 10 P M. the dance ended and
the nativs retired; they were much gratified in Seeing Some of our Party
join them in their dance. one of their party who made himself the most
Conspicious Charecter in the dance and Songs, we were told was a Medesene
man & Could foretell things. that he had told of our Comeing into
their Country and was now about to Consult his God the moon if what we
Said was the truth &c. &c.
[Lewis, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806. This morning Yellept furnished us with two canoes
and we began to transport our baggage over the river; we also sent a party
of the men over to collect the horses. we purchased some dogs and
shappellell this morning. we had now a store of 12 dogs for our voyage
through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and
baggage but were detained several hours in consequence of not being able
to collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we could not reach
any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the
Wallahwollah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning, and
accordingly encamped on that river near a fish wear. this wear consists of
two curtains of small willow switches matted together with four lines of
withs of the same materials extening quite across the river, parrallel
with eah other and about 6 feet assunder. those are supported by several
parsels of poles placed in the manner before discribed of the fishing
wears. these curtains of willow are either roled at one end for a few feet
to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure. they take their
fish which at present are a mullet only of from one to five lbs., with
small seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag
down to the wear and raise the bottom of the seine against the willow
curtain. they have also a small seine maniaged by one person it bags in
the manner of the scooping net; the one side of the net is confined to a
simicircular bow of half the size of a man's arm and about 5 feet long;
the other side is confined to a strong string which being attatched to the
extremities of the bow forms the cord line to the simicircle. The
Wallahwollah river discharges itself into the Columbia on it's S. side 15
miles below the entrance of Lewis's river or the S. E. branch. a high
range of hills pass the Columbia just below the entrance of this river.
this is a handsome stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yds. wide; it's bed
is composed of gravel principally with some sand and mud; the banks are
abrupt but not high, tho it dose not appear to overflow; the water is
clear. the indians inform us that it has it's surces in the range of
mountains in view of us to the E and S. E. these mountains commence a
little to the south of Mt. Hood and extending themselves in a N.
Eastwardly direction terminate near a Southen branch of Lewis's river
short of the Rocky mountains. The Towannahiooks river, river LaPage and
the Wollah-wollah rivers all take their rise on the N side of these
mountains; two principal branches of the first of these take their rise in
Mountains Jefferson and hood. these mountains are covered with snow at
present tho do not appear high; they seperate the waters of the Multnomah
from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be about 65 or 70 miles
distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that at some
distance in the large plains to the South of those mountains there was a
large river runing to the N. W. which was as wide as the Columbia at this
place which is nearly one mile. this account is no doubt some what
exagerated but it serves to evince the certainty of the Multnomah being a
very large river and that it's waters are seperated from the Columbia by
those mountains and that with the aid of a southwardly branch of Lewis's
river which passes arrond the eastern extremity of those mountains, it
must water that vast tract of country extending from those mountains to
the waters of the gulph of California. and no doubt it heads with the
Yellowstone river and the del Nord. we gave small medals to two inferior
cheifs of this nation and they each presented us a fine horse in return we
gave them sundry articles and among others one of my case pistols and
several hundred rounds of amunition. there are 12 other lodges of the
Wollahwollah nation on this river a little distance below our camp. 12
these as well as those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on this
fishing wear for their subsistence. these people as well as the Chymnahpos
are very well dressed, much more so particularly their women than they
were as we decended the river last fall most of them have long shirts and
leggings, good robes and mockersons. their women wear the truss when they
cannot procure the shirt, but very few are seen with the former at this
moment. I presume the success of their winters hunt has produced this
change in their attire. they all cut their hair in their forehead and most
of the men wear the two cews over each sholder in front of the body; some
have the addition of a few small plats formed of the earlocks and others
tigh a small bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead. their
ornaments are such as discribed of the nations below and are woarn in a
similar manner. they insisted on our dancinq this evening but it rained a
little the wind blew hard and the weather was cold, we therefore did not
indulge them.
[Clark, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806 This Morning Yelleppit furnished us with 2 Canoes,
and We began to transport our baggage over the river; we also Sent a party
of the men over to collect our horses. we purchased Some deer and
chappellell this morning. we had now a Store of 12 dogs for our voyage
through the plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and
baggage but were detained Several hours in consequence of not being able
to Collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we Could not reach
any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on the
Wallah wallah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the morning,
accordingly encampd on the river near a fish Wear. this weare Consists of
two Curtains of Small willows wattled together with four lines of withes
of the Same Materials extending quite across the river, parralal with each
other and about 6 feet asunder. those are Supported by Several parrelals
of poles placed in this manner those Curtains of willows is either roled
at one end for a fiew feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at
pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a Mullet only of from
one to 5 pounds Wt. with Small Seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two
persons; these they drag down to the Wear and rase the bottom of the seine
against the willow Curtain. they have also a Small Seine managed by one
person, it bags in the manner of the Scooping Nets; the one Side of the
Net is Confined to a Simicircular bow of half the Size of a mans arm and
about 5 feet long, the other Side is confined to a Strong String which
being attatched to the extremities of the bow forms the Cord line to the
Simicurcle. The Wallah wallah River discharges it's Self into the Columbia
on it's South Side 15 miles below the enterance of Lewis's River, or the
S. E. branch. a range of hills pass the Columbia just below the enterance
of this river. this is a handsom Stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yards
wide; it's bead is composed of gravel principally with Some Sand and Mud;
the banks are abrupt but not high, tho it does not appear to overflow; the
water is Clear. the Indians inform us that it has it's Source in the range
of Mountains in view of us to the E. and S. E. these Mountains commence a
little to the South of Mt. Hood and extend themselves in a S Eastwardly
direction terminateing near the Southern banks of Lewis's river Short of
the rockey Mountains. Ta wan nahiooks river, river Lapage and ____ River
all take their rise on those Mountains. the two principal branches of the
first of those take their rise in the Mountain's, Jefferson and Hood.
those Mountains are Covered at present with Snow. those S W. Mountains are
Covered with Snow at present tho do not appear high. they Seperate the
Waters of the Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to
be 65 or 70 miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed
us that at Some distance in the large plains to the South of those
Mountains there was a large river running to the N. W. which was as wide
as the Columbia at this place, which is nearly 1 mile. this account is no
doubt Somewhat exagurated but it Serves to evince the Certainty of the
Multnomah being a very large River and that it's waters are Seperated from
the Columbia by those Mountains, and that with the aid of a Southwardly
branch of Lewis's river which pass around the Eastern extremity of those
mountains, it must water that vast tract of Country extending from those
Mountains to the Waters of the Gulf of Callifornia. and no doubt it heads
with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.
We gave Small Medals to two inferior Chiefs of this nation, and they each
furnished us with a fine horse, in return we gave them Sundery articles
among which was one of Capt Lewis's Pistols & Several hundred rounds
of Amunition. there are 12 other Lodges of the Wallahwallah Nation on this
river a Short distance below our Camp. those as well as those beyond the
Columbia appear to depend on their fishing weres for their Subsistance.
those people as well as the Chym na poms are very well disposed, much more
So particular their women than they were when we decended the river last
fall. Most of them have long Shirts and leggins, good robes and
Mockersons. their women were the truss when they Cannot precure the Shirt,
but very fiew are Seen with the former at the present. I prosume the
Suckcess of their Winters hunt has produced this change in their attere.
they all Cut their hair in the fore head, and most of the men ware the two
Cews over each Sholder in front of the body; Some have the addition of a
fiew Small plats formed of the eare locks, and others tigh a Small bundle
of the docked foretop in front of the fore head. their orniments are Such
as discribed of the nativs below, and are worn in a Similar manner. they
insisted on our danceing this evening but it rained a little the wind blew
hard and the weather was Cold, we therefore did not indulge them. — Several
applyed to me to day for medical aides, one a broken arm another inward
fever and Several with pains across their loins, and Sore eyes. I
administered as well as I could to all. in the evining a man brought his
wife and a horse both up to me. the horse he gave me as a present. and his
wife who was verry unwell the effects of violent Coalds was placed before
me. I did not think her Case a bad one and gave Such medesine as would
keep her body open and raped her in flannel. left Some Simple Medesene to
be taken. we also gave Some Eye water 1 G. of Ela v V. & 2 grs. of
Sacchm Stry. to an ounce of water and in that perpotion. Great No. of the
nativs about us all night.
[Lewis, April 30, 1806]
Wednesday April 30th 1806. This morning we had some difficulty in
collecting our horses notwithstanding we had bubbled and picquited those
we obtained of these people. we purchased two other horses this morning
and several dogs. we exchanged one of our most indifferent horses for a
very good one with the Chopunnish man who has his family with him. this
man has a daughter new arrived at the age of puberty, who being in a
certain situation is not permitted to ascociate with the family but sleeps
at a distance from her father's camp and when traveling follows at some
distance behind. in this state I am informed that the female is not
permitted to eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly
occupation. at 10 A.M. we had collected all our horses except the white
horse which Yellept had given Capt. C. the whole of the men soon after
returned without being able to find this horse. I lent my horse to Yellept
to surch Capt. C's about half an hour after he set out our Chopunnish man
brought up Capt. C's horse we now determined to leave one man to bring on
my horse when Yellept returned and to proceed on with the party
accordingly we took leave of these friendly honest people the
Wollahwollahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanyed by our guide and the
Chopunnish man and family. we continued our rout N. 30 E. 14 ms. through
an open level sandy plain to a bold Creek 10 yds. wide. this stream is a
branch of the Wallahwollah river into which it discharges itself about six
miles above the junction of that river with the Columbia. it takes it's
rise in the same range of mountains to the East of the sources of the main
branch of the same. it appears to be navigable for canoes; it is deep and
has a bold current. there are many large banks of pure sand which appear
to have been drifted up by the wind to the hight of 15 or 20 feet, lying
in many parts of the plain through which we passed today. this plain as
usual is covered with arromatic shrubs hurbatious plants and a short
grass. many of those plants produce those esculent roots which form a
principal part of the subsistence of the natives. among others there is
one which produces a root somewhat like the sweet pittaitoe. — we
encamped at the place we intersepted the creek where we had the pleasure
once more to find an abundance of good wood for the purpose of making
ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the case since we left
rock fort camp. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter; a pan of the former
we reserved for ourselves and gave the indians the ballance. these people
will not eat the dog but feast heartily on the otter which is vastly
inferior in my estimation, they sometimes also eat their horses, this
indeed is common to all the indians who possess this annimal in the plains
of Columbia; but it is only done when necessity compells them. — the
narrow bottom of this creek is very fertile, tho the plains are poor and
sandy. the hills of the creek are generally abrupt and rocky. there is a
good store of timber on this creek at least 20 fold more than on the
Columbia river itself. it consists of Cottonwood, birch, the crimson haw,
redwillow, sweetwillow, chokecherry yellow currants, goosberry,
whiteberryed honeysuckle rose bushes, seven bark, and shoemate. I observed
the corngrass and rushes in some parts of the bottom. Reubin Feilds
overtook us with my horse. our stock of horses has now encresed to 23 and
most of them excellent young horses, but much the greater portion of them
have soar backs. these indians are cruell horse-masters; they ride hard,
and their saddles are so illy constructed that they cannot avoid wounding
the backs of their horses; but reguardless of this they ride them when the
backs of those poor annimals are in a horrid condition.
[Clark, April 30, 1806]
Wednesday April 30th 1806. This morning we had Some dificuelty in
Collecting our horses notwithstanding we had hobbled & Picqueted those
we obtained of those people. we purchased two other horses this morning
and 4 dogs. we exchanged one of our most indeferent horses for a very good
one with the Choponnish man who has his family with him. this man has a
doughter now arived at the age of puberty who being in a certain
Situation-is not permited to acoiate with the family but Sleeps at a
distance from her father's Camp, and when traveling follows at Some
distance be-hind. in this State I am informed that the female is not
permited to eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly
occupation. at 10 A.M. we had Collected all our horses except the White
horse which Yelleppit the Great Chief had given me. the whole of the men
haveing returned without being able to find this hors. I informed the
chief and he mounted Capt Lewis's horse and went in Serch of the horse
himself. about half an hour after the Chopunnish man brought my horse. we
deturmined to proceed on with the party leaving one man to bring up Capt
L.s horse when Yelleppit Should return. We took leave of those honest
friendly people the Wallah wallahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanied by
our guide and the Chopunnish man and family. we Continued our rout N. 30°
E. 14 ms. through an open leavel Sandy Plain to a bold Creek 10 yards
wide. this stream is a branch of the Wallahwallah river, and takes it's
rise in the same range of mountains to the East of the main branch. deep
and has a bold Current. there are maney large banks of pure Sand which
appear to have been drifted up by the wind to the hight of 20 or 30 feet,
lying in maney parts of the plains through which we passed to day. This
plain as usial is covered with arromatic Shrubs, hurbatious plants and
tufts of Short grass. Maney of those plants produce those esculent roots
which forms a principal part of the Subsistance of the Nativs. among
others there is one which produce a root Somewhat like the Sweet potato.
We encamped at the place we intersepted the Creek where we had the
pleasure once more to find a Sufficency of wood for the purpose of makeing
ourselves comfortable fires, which has not been the Case Since we left
Rock fort Camp below the falls. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter. the
narrow bottoms of this Creek is fertile. tho the plains are pore &
Sandy. the hills of the Creek are generaly abrupt and rocky. there is Some
timber on this Creek. it consists of Cotton wood, birch, the Crimson haw,
red willow, Sweet willow, Choke Cherry, yellow Current, goose berry, white
berried honey suckle, rose bushes, Seven bark, Shoemate &c. &c.
rushes in Some parts of the bottoms.
R. Fields over took us with Capt Lewis's horse our Stock of horses have
now increased to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much the
greatest part of them have Sore backs. those Indians are cruel horse
masters; they ride hard and their Saddles illey constructed. &c. &c.
[Lewis, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806. We collected our horses tolerably early this
morning took and set out a little after 7 A.M. we pursued the indian road
which led us up the creek about nine miles, here the Chopunnish man wo was
in front with me informed that an old unbeaten tract which he pointed out
to the left was our nearest rout. we halted the party and directed them to
unload and let their horses graize untill our guide came up who was at
some distance behind. I wished to obtain good information of this newly
recommended tract before I could consent to leave the present road which
seemed to lead us in the proper direction was level and furnished with
wood and water. when the guide arrived he seemed much displeased with the
other, he assured us that the rout up the creek was the nearest, and much
the best, that if we took the other we would be obliged to remain here
untill tomorrow morning, and then travel a whole day before we could reach
water, and that there was no wood; the other agreed that this was the
case. we therefore did not hesitate to pursue the rout recommended by the
guide. the creek, it's bottom lands, and the appearance of the plains were
much as those of esterday only with this difference that the latter were
not so sandy. we had sent out four hunters this morning two on foot and 2
on horseback they joined us while we halted here. Drewyer had killed a
beaver. at 1 P.M. we resumed our march, leaving the Chopunnish man and his
family; he had determined to remain at that place untill the next morning
and then pursue the rout he had recommended to us. he requested a small
quantity of powder and lead which we gave him. we traveled 17 miles this
evening, making a total of 26 Ms. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our
afternoons march was through a similar country with that of the forenoon;
the creek bottoms then became higher and widened to the extent of from 2
to 3 Ms. the hills on the N. side were low but those on the opposite side
retained their hight. we saw a number of deer of which Labuish killed one.
the timber on the creek becomes more abundant and it's extensive bottoms
affords a pleasent looking country. the guide informs us that we shall now
find a plenty of wood water and game quite to the Kooskooske. we saw a
great number of the Curloos, some Grains, ducks, prarie larks and several
speceis of sparrows common to the praries. I see very little difference
between the apparent face of the country here and that of the plains of
the Missouri only that these are not enlivened by the vast herds of
buffaloe Elk &c which ornament the other. the courses and distances of
this day are N. 45 E. 9 M. and N. 75 E. 17 M. along the Northern side of
this creek to our encampment. some time after we had encamped three young
men arrived from the Wallahwollah village bringing with them a steel trap
belonging to one of our party which had been neglegently left behind; this
is an act of integrity rarely witnessed among indians. during our stay
with them they several times found the knives of the men which had been
carelessly lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly affirm
to the honor of these people that they are the most hospitable, honest,
and sincere people that we have met with in our voyage.
[Clark, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806. This morning we collected our horses and made an
early Start, haveing preveously Sent a hed 4 hunters with derections to
proceed up the Creek and kill every Species of game which they might meet
with. the Small portion of rain which fell last night Caused the road to
be much furmer and better than yesterday. the morning Cloudy and Cool. we
proceeded up the Creek on the N. E. Side through a Countrey of less sand
and Some rich bottoms on the Creek which is partially Supplyed with Small
Cotton trees, willow, red willow, choke Cherry, white thorn, birch, elder,
____ rose & honey suckle. Great portion of these bottoms has been
latterly burnt which has entirely distroyed the timbered growth. at the
distance of nine miles we over took our hunters, they had killed one bever
only at this place the road forked, one leaveing the Creek and the Corse
of it is nearly North. the Chopunnish who had accompanied us with his
family informed us that this was our best way. that it was a long distance
without water. and advised us to Camp on the Creek at this place and in
the morning to Set out early. This information perplexed us a little, in
as much as the idea of going a days march without water thro an open Sandy
plain and on a Course 50° out of our derection. we deturmined to unlode
and wate for our Guide, or the Chopunnish man who had accompanied us from
the long Narrows, who was in the rear with Drewyer our interpreter. on his
arrival we enquired of him which was the best and most direct roade for us
to take. he informed us that the road pointed out by his cumerade was
through a open hilly and Sandy Countrey to the river Lewis's River, and
was a long ways around, and that we Could not git to any water to day. the
other roade up the creek was a more derect Course, plenty of water wood
and only one hill in the whole distance and the road which he had always
recomended to us. Some words took place between those two men the latter
appeared in great pation Mounted his horse and Set out up the Creek. we
Sent a man after him and brought him back informed him that we believed
what he Said and Should imedeately after dinner proceed on the road up the
Creek with him. we gave the former man Some powder and ball which had been
promised him, and after an early dinner Set out up the Creek with our
guide leaveing the Chopunnish man and his family encamped at the forks of
the road where they intended to Stay untill the morning and proceed on the
rout he had recommended to us. we traviled 17 miles this evening makeing a
total of 26 mls. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our afternoons march
was through a Simaler Country of that of the fore noon; the Creek bottoms
then became higher and wider; to the extent of from 2 to 3 miles. we Saw
Several Deer of which Labiech killed one. the timber on the Creek become
more abundant and less burnt, and its extensive bottoms afford a pleasent
looking Country. we Saw a Great number of Curloos, Some Crains, Ducks,
prarie cocks, and Several Species of Sparrows common to the praries. I See
Very little difference between the apparant face of the Country here and
that of the plains of the Missouri. only that those are not enlivened by
the vast herds of Buffalow, Elk &c. which animated those of the
Missouri. The Courses & distances of this day are N. 45° E. 9 mls.
& N. 75° E. 17 Miles allong the North Side of this Creek to our
encampment. Sometime after we had encamped three young men arrived from
the Wallah wallah Village bringing with them a Steel trap belonging to one
of our party which had been negligently left behind; this is an act of
integrity rearly witnessed among Indians. dureing our Stay with them they
Several times found the knives of the men which had been Carefully lossed
by them and returned them. I think we can justly affirm to the honor of
those people that they are the most hospitable, honist and Sencere people
that we have met with on our Voyage.
[Lewis, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2cd 1806. This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had
much difficulty in collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all
except the horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whom we seperated
from yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make some attempts to
rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought
securely bubbled both before and at the side, but he broke the strings in
the course of the night and absconded. we sent several men in different
directions in surch of him. I engaged one of the young indians who
overtook us last evening to return in surch of him. at half after 1 P.M.
The indian and Joseph Feilds returned with the horse, they had found him
on his way back about 17 Ms. I paid the indian the price stipulated for
his services and we immediately loaded up and set forward. steered East 3
M. over a hilly road along the N. side of the Creek, wide bottom on S.
side. a branch falls in on S. side which runs south towards the S. W.
mountains which appear to be about 25 Ms. distant low yet covered with
snow N. 75 E. 7 through an extensive level bottom. more timber than usual
on the creek, some pine of the long leafed kind appears on the sides of
the creek hills, also about 50 acres of well timbered pine land where we
passed the creek at 4 m. on this course N. 45 E. 9 ms. repassed the creek
at 4 M. and continued up a N. E. branch of the same which falls in about a
mile below where we passed the main creek. the bottoms though which we
passed were wide. the main creek boar to the S. and heads in the
Mountains; it's bottoms are much narrower above where we passed it and the
hills appear high. we passed the small creek at 83/4 from the commencement
of this course and encamped on the N. side in a little bottom, having
traveled 19 miles today. at this place the road leaves the creek and takes
the open high plain. this creek is about 4 yds. wide and bears East as far
as I could observe it. I observed considerable quantities of the qua-mash
in the bottoms through which we passed this evening now in blume. there is
much appearance of beaver and otter along these creeks. saw two deer at a
distance; also observed many sandhill crains Curloos and other fowls
common to the plains. the soil appears to improve as we advance on this
road. our hunters killed a duck only. the three young men of the
Wollahwollah nation continued with us. in the course of the day I observed
them eat the inner part of the young and succulent stem of a large coarse
plant with a ternate leaf, the leafets of which are three loabed and
covered with a woolly pubersence. the flower and fructification resembles
that of the parsnip this plant is very common in the rich lands on the
Ohio and it's branches the Mississippi &c. I tasted of this plant
found it agreeable and eat heartily of it without feeling any
inconvenience.
[Clark, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2nd 1806 This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had
much dificuelty in Collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all
except the horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whome we Seperated
from yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make Some attempts to
rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought
Scurely hobbled both before and at the Side, but he broke the Strings in
the Course of the night and absconded. we Sent Several men in different
directions in Serch of him. and hired one of the men who joined us last
night to prosue him and over take us & at 4 after 1 P.M. the indian
and Joseph Fields returned with the horse they had found him on his way
back about 17 miles. I paid the Indian the price Stipulated for his
Services and we imediately loaded up and Set forward. East 3 miles over a
hilly road along the N. Side of the Creek. wide bottoms on the S. Side. a
branch falls in on the S. side which runds from the S W. Mountains, which
appear to be about 25 m. distant low yet Covered with Snow. N. 75° E. 7 m.
through an extencive leavel bottom. more timber than usial on the Creek.
Some pine of the long leaf kind appear on the Creek hills. also about 50
acres of well timbered pine land where we passed the Creek at 4 m. on the
Course. N. 45° E. 9 m. passed the Creek at 4 M. and Continued up on the N.
E. Side. the bottoms wide. the main creek bear to the S. and head in the
Mountains. we passed a Small Creek at 83/4 m. from the Commencement of
this Course and encamped on the N. Side in a little bottom. haveing
traviled 19 miles to day. at this place the road leaves the Creek and
passes through the open high plains. this creek is 5 yds wide and bears
East towards the Mts. I observed a Considerable quantity of the qua mash
in the bottoms through which we passed this evening now in blume. there is
much appearance of beaver & otter along these creeks. Saw two deer at
a distance, also Sand hill Cranes, Curloos and fowls common to the plains.
the Soil appears to improve as we advance on this road. our hunters killed
a deer only. The three young men of the Wallah wallah nation Continue with
us in the Course of this day. I observed them cut the inner part of the
young and succulent Stem of a large Corse plant with a ternate leaf, the
leafets of which are three loabes and Covered with woolly pubersence. the
flower and fructification resembles that of the parsnip. this plant is
very common in the rich lands on the Ohio and its branches. I tasted of
this plant found it agreeable and eate hartily of it without feeling any
inconveniance.
[Lewis, May 3, 1806]
Saturday May 3rd 1806. This morning we set out at 7 A.M. steered N. 25 E
12 ms. to Kimooenem Creek through a high level plain. this creek is about
12 yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a considerable body of
water it heads in the S. W. mountains and discharges itself into Lewis's
river a few miles above the narrows. the bottoms of this creek are narrow
with some timber principally Cottonwood and willow. the under brush such
as mentioned on N. East Creek. the hills are high and abrupt. the land of
the plains is much more fertile than below, less sand and covered with
taller grass; very little of the aromatic shrubs appear in this part of
the plain. we halted and dined at this creek; after which we again
proceeded N. 45 E. 3 M. through the high plain to a small creek 5 yds.
wide branch of the Kimooenem C. this stream falls into the creek some
miles below. the hills of this creek like those of the Kimooenem are high
it's bottoms narrow and possess but little timber, lands of a good
quality, a dark rich loam. we continued our rout up this creek, on it's N.
side. N. 75 E. 7 Ms. the timber increases in quantity the hills continue
high. East 4 Ms. up the creek. here we met with We-ark-koomt whom we have
usually distinguished by the name of the bighorn Cheif from the
circumstance of his always wearing a horn of that animal suspended by a
cord to he left arm. he is the 1st Cheif of a large band of the Chopunnish
nation. he had 10 of his young men with him. this man went down Lewis's
river by land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia
and I beleive was very instrumental in procuring us a hospitable and
friendly reception among the natives. he had now come a considerable
distance to meet us. after meeting this cheif we continued still up the
creek bottoms N. 75. E. 2 m to the place at which the road leaves the
creek and ascends the hills to the plain here we encamped in small grove
of cottonwood tree which in some measure broke the violence of the wind.
we came 28 ms. today. it rained hailed snowed and blowed with great
violence the greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us that this
storm was from the S. W. and of course on our backs. the air was very
cold. we divided the last of our dryed meat at dinner when it was consumed
as well as the ballance of our dogs nearly we made but a scant supper and
had not anything for tomorrow; however We-arkkoomt consoled us with the
information that there was an indian lodge on the river at no great
distance where we might supply ourselves with provision tomorrow. our
guide and the three young Wallahwollahs left us this morning reather
abruptly and we have seen nothing of them since. the S. W. mountains
appear to become lower as they proceede to the N. E. this creek reaches
the mountains. we are nearer to them than we were last evening
[Clark, May 3, 1806]
Saturday 3rd May 1806 This morning we Set out at 7 A.M. Steared N. 25° E
12 m. to Kimoo e nimm Creek through a high leavel plain this Creek is 12
yds. wide pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a Considerable quanty of
water it head in the S W. Mountains and discharges it Self into Lewis's
river a fiew miles Above the narrows. the bottoms of this Creek is narrow
with Some timber principally Cotton wood & Willow. the under brush
Such as mentioned in the N. E. Creek. The hills are high and abrupt. the
lands of the plains is much more furtile than below, less Sand and Covered
with taller grass; very little of the aramatic Shrubs appear in this part
of the plain. we halted and dined at this Creek. after which we again
proceeded N. 45° E. 3 mes. through a high plain to a Small Creek 5 yds.
wide, a branch of the Kimooenimm Creek. the hills of this Stream like
those of the Ki moo enimm are high its bottoms narrow and possess but
little timber. the land of a good quallity dark rich loam. we Continued
our rout up this Creek on it's N. Side N. 75° E 7 mes. the timber increas
in quantity the hills continue high. we met with the We arh koont whome we
have usially distinguished by the name of the big horn Chief from the
circumstance of his always wareing a horn of that animal Suspended by a
Cord to his left arm. he is a 1st Chief of a large band of the Chopunnish
Nation. he had ten of his young men with him. this man Went down Lewis's
river by Land as we decended it by water last fall quite to the Columbia,
and I believe was very instremental in precureing us a hospital and
friendly reception among the nativs. he had now come a Considerable
distance to meet us. after meeting this Cheif we Continued Still up the
Creek bottoms N. 75° E. 2 m. to the place at which the roade leaves the
Creek and assends the hill to the high plains: here we Encamped in a Small
grove of Cotton trees which in some measure broke the violence of the
wind. we Came 28 miles today. it rained, hailed, Snowed & blowed with
Great Violence the greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us
that this Storm was from the S. W. and of Course on our backs. the air was
very cold. we devided the last of our dried meat at dinner when it was
Consumed as well as the ballance of our Dogs nearly we made but a Scant
Supper, and had not any thing for tomorrow; however We-ark-koomt Consoled
us with the information that there was an Indian Lodge on the river at no
great distance where we might Supply our Selves with provisions tomorrow.
our Guide and the three young Wallah wallah's left us this morning reather
abruptly and we have Seen nothing of them Sence. the S W. Mountains appear
to become lower as they receed to the N, E. This Creek reaches the
mountains. we are much nearer to them than we were last evening. they are
Covered with timber and at this time Snow.
[Lewis, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806. Collected our horses and set out early; the morning
was cold and disagreeable. we ascended the Lard. hills of the creek and
steered N. 60° E. 4 miles through a high level plain to a ravine which
forms the source of a small creek, thence down this creek N. 75° E. 8 ms.
to it's entrance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the entrance of the
Kooskooske. on the river a little above this creek we arrived at a lodge
of 6 families of which Weark-koomt had spoken. we halted here for
breakfast and with much difficulty purchase 2 lean dogs. the inhabitants
were miserably poor. we obtained a few large cakes of half cured bread
made of a root which resembles the sweet potatoe, with these we made some
scope and took breakfast. the lands through which we passed today are
fertile consisting of a dark rich loam the hills of the river are high and
approach it nearly on both sides. no timber in the plains. the S. W.
Mountains which appear to be about 15 Ms. above us still continue to
become lower they are covered with snow at present nearly to their bases.
Lewis's river appeas to pass through these mots. near their N. Eastern
extremity. these hills terminate in a high level plain between the
Kooskooske and Lewis's river. these plains are in many places well covered
with the Longleafed pine, with some Larch and balsom fir. the soil is
extreemly fertile no dose it appear so thisty as that of the same apparent
texture of the open plains. it produces great quantities of the quawmash a
root of which the natives are extreemly fond. a great portion of the
Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in small vilages through
this plain collecting the quawmash and cows; the salmon not yet having
arrived to call them to the river. the hills of the creek which we
decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of
our pack horses sliped from one of those hights and fell into the creek
with it's load consisting principally of ammunition but fortunately neith
the horse nor load suffered any material injury. the amunition being
secured in canesters the water did not effect it. — after dinner we
continued our rout up the West side of the river 3 Ms. opposite to 2
lodges the one containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish
nation; here we met with Te-toh, ar sky, the youngest of the two cheifs
who accompanied us last fall the great falls of the Columbia here we also
met with our pilot who decended the river with us as far as the Columbia.
these indians recommended our passing the river at this place and
ascending the Kooskooske on the N. E. side. they said it was nearer and a
better rout to the forkes of that river where the twisted hair resided in
whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to conduct us.
we determined to take the advice of the indians and immediately prepared
to pass the river which with the assistance of three indian canoes we
effected in the course of the evening, purchased a little wood and some
bread of cows from the natives and encamped having traveled 15 Ms. only
today. We-ark-koomt whose people resided on the West side of Lewis's river
above left us when we determined to pass the river and went on to his
lodg. the evening was cold and disagreeable, and the natives crouded about
our fire in great numbers insomuch that we could scarcely cook of keep
ourselves warm. at all these lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an
appendage of a small lodg with one fire which seems to be the retreat of
their women in a certain situation. the men are not permitted to approach
this lodge within a certain distance and if they have any thing to convey
to the occupants of this little hospital they stand at the distance of 50
or 60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they can and retire.
[Clark, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out early; the morning
was Cold and disagreeable. we assended the Larboard Hill of the Creek and
Steared N 60° E 4 M. through a high leavil plain to a revine which forms
the Source of a small creek, thence down the Creek N 75° E. 8 Ms. to it's
enterance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the enterance of Koos koos ke.
on the river a little above this Creek we arived at a lodge of 6 families
of which We-ark'-koomt had Spoken. We halted here for brackfast and with
much dificuelty purchased 2 lean dogs. the inhabitents were miserably
pore. we obtained a fiew large cakes of half cured bread made of a root
which resembles the Sweet potatoe, with these we made Some Soope and took
brackfast. the lands through which we passed to day are fertile consisting
of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high and abrupt
approaching it nearly on both Sides. no timber in the plains. the S. W.
Mountains which appear to be about 15 Miles from us Still Continue to
become lower, they are Covered with Snow at present nearly to their bases.
Lewis's river appear to pass through those Mountains near the N Eastern
extremity. those hills termonate in a high leavil plain between the
Kooskoske & Lewis's river. these plains are in maney places well
covered with the long leafed pine and Some balsom fir. the Soil is
extreamly fertile. no does it appear So thirsty as that of the Same
apparrant texture of the open plains. it produces great quantities of the
quawmash a root of which the nativs are extreemly fond. a Great portion of
the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in Small villages
through this plain Collecting the Cowse a white Meley root which is very
fine in Soup after being dried and pounded; the Salmon not yet haveing
arived to Call them to the river-. The hills of the Creek which we
decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of
our pack horses Sliped from one of those hights and fell into the Creek
with it's load Consisting principally of amunition, but fortunately
neither the horse nor load Suffered any Matereal injury. the ammunition
being Secured in Canesters the water did not effect it.
after dinner we Continued our rout up the West Side of the river 3 ms.
opposit 2 Lodges the one Containing 3 and the other 2 families of the
Chopunnish Nation; here we met with Te-toh-ar-sky the oldest of the two
Chiefs who accompanied us last fall to the Great falls of the Columbia.
here we also met with our old pilot who decended the river with us as low
as the Columbia these indians recommended our passing the river at this
place and going up on the N E Side of the Kooskoske. they Sayed it was
nearer and a better rout to the forks of that river where the twisted hair
resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to
Conduct us. we determined to take the advise of the indians and imediately
prepared to pass the river which with the assistance of three indian
Canoes we effected in the Course of the evening, purchased a little Wood,
Some Cows bread and encamped, haveing traveled 15 miles to day only. We
ark koomt whose people reside on the West Side of Lewis's river above left
us when we deturmined to pass the river. before he left us he expressed
his concern that his people would be deprived of the pleasure of Seeing us
at the forks at which place they had assimbled to Shew us Sivilities &c.
I gave him a Small piece of tobacco and he went off Satisfied. the evening
was Cold and disagreeable, and the nativs Crouded about our fire in great
numbers in so much that we Could Scercely Cook or keep ourselves worm. at
all those Lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a Small lodge
with one fire, which Seames to be the retreat of their women in a certain
Situation. the men are not permited to approach this Lodge within a
certain distance, and if they have any thing to Convey to the Occupents of
this little hospital they Stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and
throw it towards them as far as they Can and retire.
[Lewis, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806. Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 41/2
miles we arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern side
of which we continued our march 12 ms. to a large lodge of 10 families
having passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8
Ms. from the mouth of the Kooskooske but not being able to obtain any
provision at either of those lodges continued our march to the third where
we arrived at 1 P.M. & with much difficulty obtained 2 dogs and a
small quanty of root bread and dryed roots. at the second lodge we passed
an indian man gave Capt. C. a very eligant grey mare for which he
requested a phial of eye-water which was accordingly given him. while we
were encamped last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish river Capt. C.
gave an indian man some volitile linniment to rub his kee and thye for a
pain of which he complained, the fellow soon after recovered and has never
ceased to extol the virtues of our medecines and the skill of my friend
Capt C. as a phisician. this occurrence added to the benefit which many of
them experienced from the eyewater we gave them about the same time has
given them an exalted opinion of our medicine. my friend Capt. C. is their
favorite phisician and has already received many applications. in our
present situation I think it pardonable to continue this deseption for
they will not give us any provision without compensation in merchandize
and our stock is now reduced to a mere handfull. we take care to give them
no article which can possibly oinjure them. we foud our Chopunnish guide
at this lodge with his family. the indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse
from the oposite side of the river and delivered him to us while here.
this horse had by some accedent seperated from our other horses above and
had agreeably to indian information been in this neighbourhood for some
weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow verry impertinently threw a poor
half starved puppy nearly into my plait by way of derision for our eating
dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; I was so provoked
at his insolence that I caught the puppy and thew it with great violence
at him and struk him in the breast and face, siezed my tomahawk and shewed
him by signs if he repeated his insolence I would tommahawk him, the
fellow withdrew apparently much mortifyed and I continued my repast on dog
without further molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to
the entrance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we
sunk the 1st canoe as we decended the river last fall. we encamped on the
lower side of this creek at a little distance from two lodges of the
Chopunnish nation having traveled 201/2 ms. today. one of these lodges
contained eight families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen.
it is 156 feet long and about 15 wide built of mats and straw. in the form
of the roof of a house having a number of small doors on each side, is
closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate space this
lodge contained at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in
the center of the house and about 10 feet assunder.
all the lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived here
extreemly hungry and much fatiegued, but no articles of merchandize in our
possession would induce them to let us have any article of provision
except a small quantity of bread of cows and some of those roots dryed. we
had several applications to assist their sick which we refused unless they
would let us have some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an
absess formed on the small of her back promised a horse in the morning
provided we would administer to her accordingly Capt. C. opened the absess
introduced a tent and dressed it with basilicon; I prepared some dozes of
the flour of sulpher and creem of tarter which were given with directions
to be taken on each morning. a little girl and sundry other patients were
offered for cure but we posponed our operations untill morning; they
produced us several dogs but they were so poor that they were unfit for
use. This is the residence of one of 4 principal Cheifs of the nation whom
they call Neesh-ne,-park-ke-ook or the cut nose from the circumstance of
his nose being cut by the snake indians with a launce in battle. to this
man we gave a medal of the small size with the likeness of the President.
he may be a great cheif but his countenance has but little inteligence and
his influence among his people seems but inconsiderable. a number of
indians beside the inhabitants of these lodges geathered about us this
evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the creek near us. we met
with a snake indian man at this place through whome we spoke at some
length to the natives this evening with rispect to the objects which had
induced us to visit their country. this address was induced at this moment
by the suggestions of an old man who observed to the natives that he
thought we were bad men and had come most probably in order to kill them.
this impression if really entertained I beleive we effaced; they appeared
well satisfyed with what we said to them, and being hungry and tired we
retired to rest at 11 oClock. — We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening.
this man has been of infinite service to us on several former occasions
and through him we now offered our address to the natives.
[Clark, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806 Collected our horses and Set out at 7 A M. at 41/2 ms.
we arived at the enterance of Kooskooske, up the N E. Side of which we
continued our March 12 Miles to a large lodge of 10 families haveing
passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Miles
from the Mouth of the Kooskooske, but not being able to obtain provisions
at either of those Lodges continued our March to the 3rd where we arived
at 1 P.M. and with much dificuelty obtained 2 dogs and a Small quantity of
bread and dryed roots. at the Second Lodge of Eight families Capt L. &
my self both entered Smoked with a man who appeared to be a principal man.
as we were about to leave his lodge and proceed on our journey he brought
foward a very eligant Gray mare and gave her to me, requesting Some eye
water. I gave him a phial of Eye water a handkerchief and some Small
articles of which he appeared much pleased-. While we were encamped last
fall at the enterance of Chopunnish river, I gave an Indian man some
volitile leniment to rub his knee and thye for a pain of which he
Complained. the fellow Soon after recovered and have never Seased to extol
the virtue of our medicines. near the enterance of the Kooskooske, as we
decended last fall I met with a man, who Could not walk with a tumure on
his thye. this had been very bad and recovering fast. I gave this man a
jentle pirge cleaned & dressed his Sore and left him Some Casteel Soap
to wash the Sore which Soon got well. this man also assigned the
restoration of his leg to me. those two cures has raised my reputation and
given those nativs an exolted oppinion of my Skill as a phician. I have
already received maney applications. in our present Situation I think it
pardonable to continue this deception for they will not give us any
provisions without Compensation in merchendize, and our Stock is now
reduced to a mear handfull. we take Care to give them no article which Can
possibly injure them. and in maney Cases can administer & give Such
Medicine & Sergical aid as will effectually restore in Simple Cases
&c. We found our Chopunnish Guide with his family. the Indians brought
my horse which was left at the place we made Canoes, from the opposit Side
and delivered him to me while here. this horse had by Some accident
Seperated from our other horses above, and agreeably to indian information
had been in this neighbourhood Some weeks. while at dinner an indian
fellow very impertinently threw a half Starved puppy nearly into the plate
of Capt. Lewis by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very
heartily at his own impertinence; Capt L. — was So provoked at the
insolence that he cought the puppy and threw it with great violence at him
and Struck him in the breast and face, Seazed his tomahawk, and Shewed him
by Sign that if he repeeted his insolence that he would tomahawk him, the
fellow withdrew apparently much mortified and we continued our Dinner
without further Molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to
the enterance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we
Sunk the 1st Canoe as we decended the river last fall. We encamped on the
lower Side of this Creek a little distance from two Lodges of the
Chopunnish nation haveing traviled 201/2 miles to day one of those Lodges
Contained 8 families, the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it
is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide built of mats and Straw, in the
form of the roof of a house haveing a number of Small dores on each Side,
is closed at the ends and without divisions in the intermediate Space.
this lodge at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the
Center of the Lodge and about 10 feet assunder. all the Lodges of these
people are formed in this manner. we arrived here extreemly hungary and
much fatigued, but no articles of merchindize in our possession would
induce them to let us have any article of Provisions except a Small
quantity of bread of Cows and some of those roots dryed. We had Several
applications to assist their Sick which we refused unless they would let
us have Some dogs or horses to eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed
on the Small of her back promised a horse in the morning provided we would
administer to her, I examined the absess and found it was too far advanced
to be cured. I told them her case was desperate. agreeably to thir request
I opened the absess. I then introduced a tent and dressed it with
bisilican; and prepared Some dozes of the flour of Sulpher and Creem of
tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning. a
little girl and Sundery other patients were brought to me for Cure but we
posponed our opperations untill the morning; they produced us Several dogs
but they were So pore that they were unfit to eat. This is the residence
of one of four principal Cheafs of the nation whome they call
Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook or the Cut nose from the circumstance of his nose
being Cut by the Snake Indians with a launce in battle. to this man we
gave a Medal of the Small Size with a likeness of the President. he may be
a great Chief but his Countinance has but little inteligence and his
influence among his people appears very inconsiderable. a number of
Indians besides the inhabitents of these Lodges gathered about us this
evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the Creek near us. We met
with a Snake indian man at this place through whome we Spoke at Some
length to the nativs this evening with respect to the object which had
enduced us to visit their Country. this address was induced at this moment
by the Suggestions of an old man who observed to the nativs that he
thought we were bad men and had Come most probably in order to kill them. — this
impression if really entertained I believe we effected; they appeared well
Satisfied with what we Said to them, and being hungary and tired we
retired to rest at 11 oClock. — We-ark-koomt rejoined us this evening.
this man has been of infinate Service to us on Several former occasions
and through him we now offered our address to the nativs-.
[Lewis, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806. This morning the husband of the sick woman was as
good as his word, he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we
immediately killed and butchered. the inhabitants seemed more accomodating
this morning; they sold us some bread. we received a second horse for
medecine and prescription for a little girl with the rheumatism. Capt. C.
dressed the woman again this morning who declared that she had rested
better last night than she had since she had been sick. sore eyes is an
universal complaint with all the natives we have seen on the west side of
the Rocky mountains. Capt. C. was busily engaged for several hours this
morning in administering eye-water to a croud of applicants. we once more
obtained a plentifull meal, much to the comfort of all the party. I
exchanged horses with We-ark'-koomt and gave him a small flag with which
he was much gratifyed. the sorrel I obtained is an eligant strong active
well broke horse perfictly calculated for my purposes. at this place we
met with three men of a nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside at the
falls of a large river disharging itself into the Columbia on it's East
side to the North of the entrance of Clark's river. this river they
informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls
below which they resided was at no great distance from the lake. these
people are the same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho
their language is intirely different a circumstance which I did not learn
untill we were about to set out and it was then too late to take a
vocabulary. The river here called Clark's river is that which we have
heretofore called the Flathead river, I have thus named it in honour of my
worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark. for this stream we know no
indian name and no whiteman but ourselves was ever on it's principal
branches. the river which Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly
be a branch of it but if so it is but a very inconsiderable branch and may
as probably empty itself into the Skeetssomish as into that river. the
stream which I have heretofore called Clark's river has it's three
principal sources in mountains Hood, Jefferson & the Northern side of
the S. W. Mountains and is of course a short river. this river I shall in
future call the To-wannahiooks river it being the name by which it is
called by the Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated
at present all the rocks of the shoals and rapids are perfectly covered;
the current is strong, the water clear and cold. this river is rising
fast.The timber of this river which consists principally of the long
leafed pine commences about 2 miles below our present camp on Colter's
Creek. it was two oclock this evening before we could collect our horses.
at 3 P.M. we set out accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair and We
arkkoomt. I directed the horse which we had obtained for the purpose of
eating to be led as it was yet unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel
ensued between Drewyer and Colter. we continued our march this evening
along the river 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families, built of sticks mats
& dryed hay in the same form of those heretofore discribed. we passed
a lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the road. no provision of any
discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark our
young horse broke the rope by which he was confined and made his escape
much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of their
appetites last evening. the brother of the twisted hair and Wearkkoomt
with 10 or 12 others encamped with us this evening.
the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's Creek. this
stream extends itself to the pirs of the rocky mountain and in much the
greater part of it's course passes through a well timbered pine country it
is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and
bed formed of pebbles. — had a small shower of rain this evening.
[Clark, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806 This morning the Susband of the Sick woman was as
good as his word. he produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we
imedeately had killed and butchered. the inhabitents Seemed more
accommodating this morning. they Sold us Some bread. we received a Second
horse for Medecine & procription to a little girl with the rhumitism
whome I had bathed in worm water, and anointed her a little with balsom
Capivia. I dressed the woman again this morning who declared that She had
rested better last night than She had Since She had been sick. Sore Eyes
is an universal Complaint among all the nations which we have Seen on the
West Side of the rocky Mountains. I was busily imployed for several hours
this morning in administering eye water to a Croud of applicants. we once
more obtained a plentiful meal, much to the Comfort of all the party. Capt
Lewis exchanged horses with We ark koomt and gave him a small flag with
which he was much pleased and gratifyed. the Sorrel which Cap L. obtained
is a Strong active well broke horse-. At this place we met with three men
of a nation Called the Skeetsso-mish who reside at the falls of a Small
river dischargeing itself into the Columbia on its East Side to the South
of the enterance of Clarks river. this river they informed us headed in a
large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they reside was
at no great distance from the lake. these people are the Same in their
dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is entirely
different. one of them gave me his whip which was a twisted Stick 18 Ins.
in length at one end a pice of raw hide Split So as to form two Strings
about 20 inches in length as a lash, to the other end a String passed
through a hole and fastened at each end for a loope to Slip over the
wrist. I gave in return for this whip a fathom of narrow binding. The
River here Calld. Clarks river is that which we have heretofore Called
Flathead river. Capt. Lewis has thought proper to Call this after myself
for this Stream we know no Indhan name and no white man but our Selves was
ever on this river. The river which Fiddler call's the great Lake river
may possiably be a branch of it, but if So it is but a very inconsiderable
branch, and may as probably empty itself into the Columbia above as into
Clarks river. the Stream which the party has heretofore Called Clarks
river imedeately above the great falls, has it's three principal branches
in Mountains Jefferson, Hood and the Northern Side of the S. W. Mountains
and is of course a Short river. this river is Called by the Skillutes
& Eneshure Nations Towannahhiooks which is also the name they Call
those bands of Snake indians who Come on this river every Spring to Catch
the Salmon-. The Kooskooske river may be Safely navigated at present all
the rocks of the Sholes and rapids are perfectlly Covered; the Current is
Strong, the water Clear and Cold. this river is riseing fast-. The timber
of this river which consists principally of the long leafed pine which
commences about 2 miles below our present encampment on Colters Creek. it
was 2 P M. this evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P M. we
Set out accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair and We-ark-koomt.
we derected the horse which I had obtained for the purpose of eateing to
be led as it was unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued between
Drewyer and Colter-. We Continued our march along the river on its North
Side 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families built of Sticks mats and dryed Hay.
of the Same form of those heretofore discribed. we passed a Lodge of 3
families at 4 ms. on the river, no provisions of any discription was to be
obtained of these people. a little after dark our young horse broke the
rope by which he was Confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of
all who recollected the keenness of their appetites last evening. the
brother of the twisted hair & wearkkoomt with 10 others encamped with
us this evening
The nativs have a Considerable Salmon fishery up Colters Creek. this
Stream extends itself to the Spurs of the Rocky Mountain and in much the
greater part of its Course passes through a well timbered pine Country. it
is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and
bead formed of pebbles-. had a Small Shower of rain this evening. The
Chopunnish about the Mouth of the Kooskooske bury their dead on Stoney
hill Sides generally, and as I was informed by an Indian who made Signs
that they made a hole in the Grown by takeing away the Stones and earth
where they wished to deposit the dead body after which they laid the body
which was previously raped in a robe and Secured with Cords. over the body
they placed Stones So as to form a Sort of arch on the top of which they
put Stones and earth So as to Secure the body from the wolves and birds
&c. they Sometimes inclose the grave with a kind of Sepulcher like the
roof of a house formed of the canoes of the disceased. they also Sacrifice
the favorite horses of the disceased. the bones of many of which we See on
and about the graves.
[Lewis, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out
early accompanyed by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide;
Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a
lodge of 6 families just below the entrance of a small creek, here our
guide recommended our passing the river. he informed us that the road was
better on the South side and that game was more abundant also on that side
near the entrance of the Chopunnish river. we determined to pursue the
rout recommended by the guide and accordingly unloaded our horses and
prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one canoe in the
course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two canisters of powder
which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been
buried in a bottom near the river some miles above, they were the same
which we had buryed as we decended the river last fall. as he had kept
them safe and had honesty enough to return them to us we gave him a fire
steel by way of compensation. during our detention at the river we took
dinner, after which or at 3 P.M. we renewed our march along the river
about 2 ms. over a difficult stony road, when we left the river and
asscended the hills to the wright which are here mountains high. the face
of the country when you have once ascended the river hills is perfectly
level and partially covered with the longleafed pine. the soil is a dark
rich loam thickly covered with grass and herbatious plants which afford a
delightfull pasture for horses. in short it is a beautifull fertile and
picteresque country. Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and after riding with us
a few miles turned off to the wright to visit some lodges of his people
who he informed me were geathering roots in the plain at a little distance
from the road. our guide conducted us through the plain and down a steep
and lengthey hill to a creek which we called Musquetoe Creek in
consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects on our arrival
at it. this is but an inconsiderable stream about 6 yds. wide heads in the
plains at a small distance and discharges itself into the Kooskooke 9
miles by water below the entrance of the Chopunnish river. we struck this
creek at the distance of 5 ms. from the point at which we left the river
our cours being a little to the S. of East. ascending the creek one mile
on the S. E. side we arrived at an indian incampment of six lodges which
appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night
having traveled 12 miles only. the timbered country on this side of the
river may be said to commence near this creek, and on the other side of
the river at a little distance from it the timber reaches as low as
Colter's Creek. the earth in many parts of these plains is thrown up in
little mounds by some animal whose habits are similar to the Sallemander,
like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the
work of this animal thoughout the whole course of my long tract from St.
Louis to the Pacific ocean I have never obtained a view of this animal.
the Shoshone man of whom I have before made mention evertook us this
evening with Neeshneparkeeook and remained with us this evening. — we
suped this evening as we had dined on horse-beef. we saw several deer this
evening and a great number of the tracks of these animals we determined to
remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison and
accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning. — he
Spurs of the rocky Mountains which were in view from the high plain today
were perfectly covered with snow. the Indians inform us that the snow is
yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pass them untill
the next full moon or about the first of June; others set the time at
still a more distant period. this unwelcom inteligence to men confined to
a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return
to the fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our native homes. The
Chopunnish bury their dead in Sepulchres formed of boards like the roofs
of houses. the corps is rolled in skins and laid on boards above the
surface of the earth. they are laid in several teer one over another being
seperated by a board only above and below from other corps. I did observe
some instances where the body was laid in an indifferent woden box which
was placed among other carcased rolled in skin in the order just
mentioned. they sacrifice horses canoes and every other speceis of
property to their ded. the bones of many horses are seen laying about
those sepulchres. this evening was cold as usual.
[Clark, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806 This morning we collected our horses and Set out
early accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair as a guide;
Wearkkoomt and his party left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a
lodge of 6 families just below the enterance of a Small Creek, here our
guide recommended our passing the river, he informed us that the road was
better on the South Side, and that game was more abundant also on that
Side near the enterance of Chopunnish river. we deturmined to pursue the
rout recommended by the guide, and accordingly unloaded our horses and
prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one Canoe in the
Course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two Canisters of Powder
which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they had been
berried in the bottom near the river a fiew miles above. they were the
Same which we had burried as we decended the river last fall. as he had
kept them Safe and had honisty enough to return them to us, we gave him a
fire Steel by way of Compensation. dureing our detention at the river we
took dinner. after which we renewed our march along the S. E. Side of the
river about 2 miles over a dificuelt Stoney road, when we left the river
and assended the hills to the right which are here mountains high. the
face of the Country when you have once assended the river hills, is
perfectly level and partially Covered with the long leafed pine. the Soil
is a dark rich loam, thickly Covered with grass and herbatious plants
which afford a delightfull pasture for horses. in Short it is a butifull
fertile picteresque Country. Neeshneparkeeook over took us and after
rideing with us a fiew miles turned off to the right to visit some lodges
of his people who he informed us were gathering roots in the plains at a
little distance from the road. our guide Conducted us through the plain
and down a Steep and lengthy hill to a Creek which we Call Musquetoe Creek
in consequence of being infested with Sworms of those insects on our
arival at it. this is but an inconsiderable Stream about 6 yards wide
heads in the plains at a Short distance and discharges itself into the
Kooskooske 9 ms. by water below the forks. we Struck this Creek at the
distance of 5 miles from the point at which we left the river our course
being a little to the S. of East. we proceeded up the Creek one Mile and
on the S. E. Side we arived at an old Indian incampment of Six Lodges
which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained all night
haveing traveled 12 ms. only. the timbered Country on this Side of the
river may be Said to Commence a Short distance below this Creek, and on
the other Side of the river at a little distance from it the timber
reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in maney parts of those plains
is thown up in little mounds by Some animal whose habits are Similar to
the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible; notwithstanding I
have observed the work of this animal throughout the whole course of my
trail from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocian, I have never obtained a View of
this animal. The Shoshone man of whome I have before mentioned over took
us this evening with Neesh neparkeeook or Cut nose and remained with us
this evening. we Suped this evening as we had done on horse beef. we Saw
Several deer this evening, and a great number of the tracks of these
animals we deturmined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to
obtain some venison, and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn
out early in the morning. The Spurs of the rocky mountains which were in
view from the high plain to day were perfectly Covered with Snow. The
Indians inform us that the Snow is yet So deep on the Mountains that we
Shall not be able to pass them untill after the next full moon or about
the first of June. others Set the time at a more distant period. this
unwelcom intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and
who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri,
and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in
different ways as I have obseved, besides that already discribed they
scaffold Some and deposit others in Sepulchers, those are rearly to be
Seen in this upper part of the Columbian Waters. the one already discribed
is the most Common. they all Sacrifice horses, Canoes and every Species of
property to the dead. the bones of maney horses are Seen lyeing about
those repositaries of the dead &c..
I observed in all the Lodges which we have passed Since we Crossed Lewis's
river decoys, or Stocking heads as they are Sometimes called. these decoys
are for the deer and is formed of the Skin of the head and upper portion
of the neck of that animale extended in the nateral Shape by means of a
fiew little Sticks placed within. the hunter when he Sees a deer conseals
himself and with his hand givs to the decoy the action of a deer at feed,
and this induces the deer within arrowshot; in this mode the Indians near
the woody country hunt on foot in Such places where they cannot pursue the
deer with horses which is their favourite method when the grounds will
permit-.. The orniments worn by the Chopunnish are, in their nose a
Single Shell of wampom, the pirl & beeds are Suspended from the ears.
beads are worn arround their wrists, neck and over their Sholders
crosswise in the form of a double Sash-. the hair of the men is Cewed in
two rolls which hang on each side in front of the body. Collars of bears
Claws are also Common; but the article of dress on which they appear to
bestow most pains and orniments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is
most Commonly a Strip of otter skins of about Six inches Wide taken out of
the Center of the Skin it's whole length including the head. this is
dressed with the hair on, this is tied around the neck & hangs in
front of the body the tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this
Skin in front is attatched pieces of pirl, beeds, wampom, pices of red
Cloth and in Short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental-..
[Lewis, May 8, 1806]
Thursday May 8th 1806. Most of the hunters turned out by light this
morning a few others remained without our permission or knoledge untill
late in the morning, we chid them severely for their indolence and
inattention to the order of last evening. about 8 OCk. Sheilds returned
with a small deer on which we breakfasted. by 11 A.M. all our hunters
returned, Drewyer and Cruzatte brought each a deer, Collins wounded
another which my dog caught at a little distance from the camp. our stock
of provision now consisted of 4 deer and the remnant of the horse which we
killed at Colter's Creek. Sheilds killed a duck of an uncommon kind. the
head beak and wing of which I preserved. the beak is remarkably wide and
obtusely pointed, on it's edges it is furnished with a sceries of teeth
very long and fine not unlike the teeth of a comb. the belley is of a
brick red, the lower part of the neck white, the upper part or but of the
wing is a sky blue, underneath which a narrow stripe of white succeeds
marking the wing transversly, the large feathers are of a dark colour.
tail short and pointed and consists of 12 dark brown feathers. the back is
black and sides white; legs yellow and feet formed like the Duckinmallard
which it also resembles in size and form. the eye is moderately large,
puple black and iris of an orrange colour. the colours and appearance of
the female is precisely that of the duckinmallard only, reather smaller.
we are informed that the natives in this quarter were much distressed for
food in the course of the last winter; they were compelled to collect the
moss which grows on the pine which they boiled and eat; near this camp I
observed many pine trees which appear to have been cut down about that
season which they inform us was done in order to collect the seed of the
longleafed pine which in those moments of distress also furnishes an
article of food; the seed of this speceis of pine is about the size and
much the shape of the seed of the large sunflower; they are nutricious and
not unpleasent when roasted or boiled, during this month the natives also
peal this pine and eat the succulent or inner bark. in the creek near our
encampment I observed a falling trap constructed on the same plan with
those frequent seen in the atlantic states for catching the fish decending
the stream Capt. C. took several small trout from this trap.
Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other indians joined us this morning. we
gave this cheif and the indians with us some venison, horsebeef, the
entrels of the four deer, and four fawns which were taken from two of the
does that were killed, they eat none of their food raw, tho the entrals
had but little preperation and the fawns were boiled and consumed hair
hide and entrals. these people sometimes eat the flesh of the horse tho
they will in most instances suffer extreem hunger before they will kill
their horses for that purpose, this seems reather to proceede from an
attatchment to this animal, than a dislike to it's flesh for I observe
many of them eat very heartily of the horsebeef which we give them. The
Shoshone man was displeased because we did not give him as much venison as
he could eat and in consequence refused to interpret, we took no further
notice of him and in the course of a few hours he became very officious
and seemed anxious to reinstate himself in our good opinons. the relation
of the twisted hair and Neeshneparkkeook gave us a sketch of the
principall watercourses West of the Rocky Mountains a copy of which I
preserved; they make the main Southwardly branch of Lewis's river much
more extensive than the other, and place many villages of the Shoshonees
on it's western side. at half after 3 P.M. we departed; for the lodge of
the Twisted hair accompanyed by the Cheif and sundry other indians. the
relation of the twisted hair left us. the road led us up a steep and high
hill to a high and level plain mostly untimbered, through which we passed
parrallel with the river about 4 miles when we met the Twisted hair and a
party of six men. to this Cheif we had confided the care of our horses and
a part of our saddles when we decended the river last fall. the Twisted
hair received us very coolly an occurrence as unexpected as it was
unaccountable to us. he shortly began to speak with a loud voice and in a
angry manner, when he had ceased to speak he was answered by the Cutnose
Cheif or Neeshneparkkeook; we readily discovered that a violet quarrel had
taken place between these Cheifs but at that instant knew not the cause;
we afterwards learnt that it was on the subject of our horses. this
contreversy between the cheifs detained us about 20 minutes; in order to
put an end to this dispute as well as to releive our horses from the
embarasment of their loads, we informed the Cheifs that we should continue
our march to the first water and encamp accordingly we moved on and the
Indians all followed. about two miles on the road we arrived at a little
branch which run to the wright. here we encamped for the evening having
traveled 6 miles today. the two cheifs with their little bands formed
seperate camps at a short distance from ours, they all appeared to be in
an ill humour. we had been informed some days since that the natives had
discovered the deposit of our saddles and taken them away and that our
horses were much scattered. we were very anxious to learn the particulars
or truth of these reports from the twisted hair, as it must in some
measure govern us in the establishment of our perminent camp which in
consequence of our detention by the snow of the mountains has become
necessary. to obtain our horses and saddles as quickly as possible is our
wish, and we are somewhat apprehensive that this difference which has
taken place between these Chiefs may millitate against our operations in
this rispect. we were therefore desireous to bring about a good
understanding between them as soon as possible. The Shoshone boy refused
to speak, he aledged it was a quarrel between two Cheifs and that he had
no business with it; it was in vain that we urged that his interpreting
what we said on this subject was not taking the responsibil ity of the
inteference on himself, he remained obstenately silent. about an hour
after we had encamped Drewyer returned from hunting we sent him to the
Twisted hair to make some enquiries relative to our horses and saddles and
to ask him to come and smoke with us. The Twisted hair accepted the
invitation and came to our fire. The twisted hair informed us that
accordingly to the promis he had made us when he seperated from us at the
falls of the Columbia he collected our horses on his return and took
charge of them, that about this time the Cutnose or Neeshneparkkeook and
Tun-nach'-emoo-tools or the broken arm returned from a war excurtion
against the Shoshonees on the South branch of Lewis's river which had
caused their absence when we were in this neighbourhood. that these men
became dissatisfyed with him in consequence of our having confided the
horses to his care and that they were eternally quarreling with him
insomuch that he thought it best as he was an old man to relinquish any
further attention to the horses, that they had consequently become
scattered; that most of the horses were near this place, a part were in
the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers and three or four
others were at the lodge of the broken Arm about half a days march higher
up the river. he informed us with rispect to our saddles that on the rise
of the water this spring the earth had fallen from the door of the cash
and exposed the saddles, he being informed of their situation had taken
them up and placed them in another cash where they were at this time; he
said it was probable that a part of them had fallen into the water but of
this he was not certain. The Twisted hair said if we would spend the day
tomorrow at his lodge which was a few miles only from hence and on the
road leading to the Broken arm's lodge, he would collect such of our
horses as were near this place and our saddles, that he would also send
some young men over the Kooskooske to collect those in the forks and bring
them to the lodge of the broken Arm to met us. he advised us to go to the
lodge of the broken Arm as he said he was a Cheif of great emenence among
them, and promised to accompany us thither if we wished him. we told him
that we should take his advice in every particular, that we had confided
the horses to his care and expected that he would collect them and deliver
them to us which when he performed we should pay him the two guns and
amunition we had promised him for that service. he seemed much pleased and
promised his utmost exertions. we sent Drewyer to the Cutnose who also
came to our fire and smoked with ourselves and the Twisted hair we took
occasion in the course of the evening to express our regret that there
should be a misunderstanding between these Cheifs; the Cutnose told us in
the presents of the Twisted hair that he the twisted hair was a bad old
man that he woar two faces, that in stead of taking care of our horses as
he had promised us that he had suffered his young men to ride them hunting
and had injured them very much; that this was the cause why himself and
the Broken arm had forbid his using them. the other made no reply. we
informed the Cutnose of our intention of spending tomorrow at the Twisted
hair's lodge in order to collect our horses and saddles and that we should
proceede the next day to the Broken Arm's lodge, he appeared well
satisfyed with this arrangement and said he would continue with us, and
would give us any assistance in his power; he said he knew the broken arm
expected us at his lodge and that he had two bad horses for us,
metaphorically speaking a present of two good horses. he said the broken
arm had learnt our want of provision and had sent four of his young men
with a supply to meet us but that they had taken a different road and had
missed us. — about 10 P.M. our guests left us and we layed down to
rest.
[Clark, May 8, 1806]
Thursday 8th of May 1806. This morning our hunters was out by the time it
was light. about 8 oClock Shields brought in a Small deer, on which we
brackfast by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned Drewyer & P. Crusat
brought in a Deer each & Collins wounded one which our Dog Caught near
our Camp. Total of our Stock of provisions 4 deer & Some horse flesh.
on the Small Creek which passes our Camp, the nativs have laterly encamped
and as we are informed have been much distressed for provisions, they have
fallen a number of Small pine in the vicinity of this Encampment for the
Seed which is in the bur of which they eate. we are informed that they
were Compelled to Collect the moss off the pine boil & eate it in the
latter part of the last Winter. on the Creek near our Camp I observed a
kind of trap which was made with great panes to catch the Small fish which
pass down with the Stream This was a dam formed of Stone So as to Collect
the water in a narrow part not exceeding 3 feet wide from which place the
water Shot with great force and Scattered through Some Small willows
Closely connected and fastened with bark. this mat of willow Switches was
about 4 feet wide and 6 long lying in a horozontal position, fastened at
the extremety. the Small fish which fell on those willows was washed on
the Willows where they untill taken off &c. I cought or took off those
willows 9 Small trout from 3 to 7 Inches in length. Soon after I returned
from the fishery an Indian came from a fishery of a Similar kind a little
above with 12 Small fish which he offered me which I declined axcepting as
I found from his Signs that his house was a Short distance above, and that
those fisheries afforded the principal part of the food for his Children.
The Great Chief of the Bands below who has a cut nose joined us this
morning. we gave the interals with 4 young fauns which was in two of the
deer killed to day to the Indians also some of our deer & horse flesh.
the Paunch of the deer they eate without any preperation further than
washing them a little. the fauns they boiled and eate every part of them
even the Skins with the hair. The Snake Indian was much displeased that he
was not furnished with as much Deer as he could eate. he refused to Speake
to the wife of Shabono, through whome we Could understand the nativs. we
did not indulge him and in the after part of the day he Came too and Spoke
verry well. one of the Indians drew me a Sketch of the river (See the
latter part of this book) in this Sketch he makes the 1st large Southerly
fork of Lewis's river much the longest and on which great numbers of the
Snake Indians reside &c. at ____ P.M. we loaded up and Set on on the
roade leading as we were informed to the lodge of the twisted hair, the
Chief in whoes Care we had left our horses. we were accompanied by the Cut
nose Chief our old Chief who had accompanied us down the river and Several
men. we assended the hills which was Steep and emencely high to a leavel
rich Country thinly timbered with pine. we had not proceeded more than 4
miles before we met the twisted hair and Several men meeting of us. we
were verry coolly recved by the twisted hair. he Spoke aloud and was
answered by the Cut Nose. we Could not learn what they Said. but plainly
discovered that a missunderstanding had taken place between them. we made
Signs to them that we Should proceed on to the next water and encamp.
accordingly I set out and they all followed. we had not proceeded far
before the road Crossed a Small handsom Stream on which we encamped. The
parties of those two Chiefs took different positions at Some distance from
each other and all appeared Sulkey. after we had formed our Camp we Sent
Drewyer with a pipe to Smoke with the twisted hair and lern the Cause of
the dispute between him and the Cut nose, and also to invite him to our
fire to Smoke with us. The twisted hair came to our fire to Smoke we then
Sent drewyer to the Cut Noses fire with the Same directions. he returned
and informed us that the Cut nose Said he would join us in a fiew minits.
it appears that the Cause of the quarrel between those two men is about
our horses. and we cannot lern the particulars of this quarrel which
probably originated through jelousy on the part of the Cut nose who blames
the twisted hair for Suffer our horses to be rode, and want water dureing
the Winter &c. twisted hair Says the horses were taken from him &c.
The Cut nose joined us in a Short time We Smoked with all the party of
both Chiefs, and told them that we were Sorry to find them at varience
with each other the cut nose said that the twisted hair was a bad man and
wore two fases, that he had not taken care of our horses as was expected.
that himself an the broken arm had Caused our horses to be Watered in the
winter and had them drove together, and that if we would proceed on to the
village of the great Chief whome we had left a flag last fall the broken
arm he would Send for our horses, that he had himself three of them. he
also informed us that the great Chief hering of our distressed Situation
had Sent his Son and 4 men to meet us and have us furnished on the way
&c. that the young men had missed us and Could never over take us
untill this time. that the great chief had 2 bad horses for us and
expected us to go to his lodge which was near the river and about half a
days march above &c. The twisted hair told us that he wished to Smoke
with us at his lodge which was on the road leading to the Great Chiefs
lodge, and but a fiew miles a head. if we would delay at his lodge
tomorrow he would go after our Saddles and horses which was near the place
we made our Canoes last fall. we deturmined to Set out early in the
morning and proceed on to the lodge of the twisted hair and Send for our
Saddles and powder which we had left burried mear the forks. and the day
after tomorrow to proceed on to the lodge of the Grand Chief. accordingly
we informed the Indians of our intentions. we all Smoked and conversed
untill about 10 P M. the Indians retired and we lay down. Derected 5
hunters to turn out early in the morning to hunt and meet us at the
twisted hair's lodge.
[Lewis, May 9, 1806]
Friday May 9th 1806. We sent out several hunters early this morning with
instructions to meet us at the lodge of the Twisted hair. Collecting our
horses detained us untill 9 A.M. when we charged our packhorses and set
out. our rout lay through a level rich country similar to that of
yesterday; at the distance of 6 miles we arrived at the lodge of the
twisted hair; this habitation was built in the usual form with sticks mats
and dryed hay, and contained 2 firs and about 12 persons. even at this
small habitation there was an appendage of the soletary lodge, the retreat
of the tawny damsels when nature causes them to be driven into coventry;
here we halted as had been previously concerted, and one man with 2 horses
accompayed the twisted hair to the canoe camp, about 4 ms. in quest of the
saddles. the Twisted hair sent two young men in surch of our horses
agreeably to his promis. The country along the rocky mountains for several
hundred miles in length and about 50 in width is level extreemly fertile
and in many parts covered with a tall and open growth of the longleafed
pine. near the watercouses the hills are steep and lofty tho are covered
with a good soil not remarkably stony and possess more timber than the
level country. the bottom lands on the watercourses are reather narrow and
confined tho fertile & seldom inundated. this country would form an
extensive settlement; the climate appears quite as mild as that of similar
latitude on the Atlantic coast if not more so and it cannot be otherwise
than healthy; it possesses a fine dry pure air. the grass and many plants
are now upwards of knee high. I have no doubt but this tract of country if
cultivated would produce in great abundance every article essentially
necessary to the comfort and subsistence of civillized man. to it's
present inhabitants nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for
she has distributed a great variety of esculent plants over the face of
the country which furnish them a plentiful) store of provision; these are
acquired with but little toil, and when prepared after the method of the
natives afford not only a nutricious but an agreeable food. among other
roots those called by them the Quawmash and Cows are esteemed the most
agreeable and valuable as they are also the most abundant. the cows is a
knobbed root of an irregularly rounded form not unlike the Gensang in form
and consistence. this root they collect, rub of a thin black rhind which
covers it and pounding it expose it in cakes to the sun. these cakes ate
about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in width, when dryed they either
eat this bread alone without any further preperation, or boil it and make
a thick muselage; the latter is most common and much the most agreeable.
the flavor of this root is not very unlike the gensang. — this root
they collect as early as the snows disappear in the spring and continue to
collect it until) the quawmash supplys it's place which happens about the
latter end of June. the quawmash is also collected for a few weaks after
it first makes it's appearance in the spring, but when the scape appears
it is no longer fit for use untill the seed are ripe which happens about
the time just mentioned, and then the cows declines. the latter is also
frequently dryed in the sun and pounded afterwards and then used in making
soope. — I observed a few trees of the larch and a few small bushes of
the balsam fir near the lodge of the Twisted hair. at 2 P.M. our hunters
joined us Drewyer killed a deer but lost it in the river. a few pheasants
was the produce of the hunt. we procured a few roots of cows of which we
made scope. late in the evening The Twisted hair and Willard returned;
they brought about half of our saddles, and some powder and lead which had
been buried at that place. my saddle was among the number of those which
were lost. about the same time the young men arrived with 21 of our
horses. the greater part of our horses were in fine order. five of them
appeared to have been so much injured by the indians riding them last fall
that they had not yet recovered and were in low order. three others had
soar backs. we had these horses caught and hubbled. the situation of our
camp was a disagreeable one in an open plain; the wind blew violently and
was cold. at seven P.M. it began to rain and hail, at 9 it was succeeded
by a heavy shower of snow which continued untill the next morning. — several
indians joined us this evening from the village of the broken arm or
Tunnachemootoolt and continued all night. The man who had imposed himself
on us as a relation of the twisted hair rejoined us this evening we found
him an impertinent proud supercilious fellow and of no kind of
rispectability in the nation, we therefore did not indulge his advances
towards a very intimate connection. The Cutnose lodged with the twisted
hair I beleive they have become good friends again. several indians slept
about us.
[Clark, May 9, 1806]
Friday 9th May 1806 The hunters Set out very early agreeable to their
derections. we were detained untill 9 A.M. for our horses which were much
Scattered at which time we Collected our horses and Set out and proceeded
on through a butifull open rich Country for 6 miles to the Camp of the
twisted hair. this Campment is formed of two Lodges built in the usial
form of mats and Straw. the largest and principal Lodge is Calculated for
2 fires only and Contains about ____ persons. the Second lodge is Small
& appears to be intended for the Sick women who always retire to a
Seperate lodge when they have the ____ this Custom is Common to all the
nations on this river as well as among all other Indian nations with whom
I am acquainted. at the distance of 2 miles we passd. a lodge of 2 fires
on a fork of the road which leads to the right Situated on a Small branch
which falls into Musquetor Creek. before 2 P M all our hunters joined us
haveing killed only one deer which was lost in the river and a pheasent.
Soon after we halted at the lodge of the twisted hair he Set out with two
boys and Willard with a pack horse down to the river near the place we
made the Canoes for our Saddles and a Cannister of powder and Some lead
buried there, also a part of our horses which resorted near that place.
late in the evening they returned with 21 of our horse and about half of
our Saddles with the powder and ball. The greater part of the horses were
in fine order, tho five of them had been rode & worsted in Such a
manner last fall by the Inds. that they had not recovered and are in very
low order, and 3 with Sore backs. we had all the recovered horses Cought
& hobbled. we precured Some pounded roots of which a Supe was made
thick on which we Suped. the wind blew hard from the S. W. accompanied
with rain untill from 7 oClock untill 9 P.M. when it began to Snow and
Continued all night. Several Indians Came from the village of the Chief
with whome we had left a flag and Continued with us all night. they slept
in the house of the twisted hair and two of them along Side of us.
[Lewis, May 10, 1806]
Saturday May 10th 1806. This morning the snow continued falling 1/2 after
6 A.M. when it ceased, the air keen and cold, the snow 8 inches deep on
the plain; we collected our horses and after taking a scant breakfast of
roots we set out for the village of Tunnachemootoolt; our rout lay through
an open plain course S. 35 E. and distance 16 ms. the road was slippery
and the snow clogged to the horses feet, and caused them to trip
frequently. the mud at the sources of the little ravines was deep black
and well supplyed with quawmash. Drewyer turned off to the left of the
road in order to hunt and did not join us this evening. at 4 in the
afternoon we decended the hills to Commearp Creek and arrived at the
Village of Tunnachemootoolt, the cheeif at whos lodge we had left a flag
last fall. this flag was now displayed on a staff placed at no great
distance from the lodge. underneath the flag the Cheif met my friend Capt.
C. who was in front and conducted him about 80 yds. to a place on the bank
of the creek where he requested we should encamp; I came up in a few
minutes and we collected the Cheifs and men of consideration smoked with
them and stated our situation with rispect to provision. the Cheif spoke
to his people and they produced us about 2 bushels of the Quawmas roots
dryed, four cakes of the bread of cows and a dryed salmon trout. We
thanked them for this store of provision but informed them that our men
not being accustomed to live on roots alone we feared it would make them
sick, to obviate which we proposed exchangeing a good horse in reather low
order for a young horse in tolerable order with a view to kill. the
hospitality of the cheif revolted at the aydea of an exchange, he told us
that his young men had a great abundance of young horses and if we wished
to eat them we should by furnished with as many as we wanted. accordingly
they soon produced us two fat young horses one of which we killed, the
other we informed them we would pospone killing untill we had consumed the
one already killed. This is a much greater act of hospitality than we have
witnessed from any nation or tribe since we have passed the Rocky
mountains. in short be it spoken to their immortal honor it is the only
act which deserves the appellation of hospitallity which we have witnessed
in this quarter. we informed these people that we were hungry and
fatiegued at this moment, that when we had eaten and refreshed ourselves
we would inform them who we were, from whence we had come and the objects
of our resurches. a principal Cheif by name Ho-hast,-ill-pilp arrived with
a party of fifty men mounted on eligant horses. he had come on a visit to
us from his village which is situated about six miles distant near the
river. we invited this man into our circle and smoked with him, his
retinue continued on horseback at a little distance. after we had eaten a
few roots we spoke to them as we had promised; and gave Tinnachemootoolt
and Hohastillpilp each a medal; the former one of the small size with the
likeness of Mr. Jefferson and the latter one of the sewing medals struck
in the presidency of Washington, we explained to them the desighn and the
importance of medals in the estimation of the whites as well as the red
men who had been taught their value. The Cheif had a large conic lodge of
leather erected for our reception and a parsel of wood collected and laid
at the door after which he invited Capt. C. and myself to make that lodge
our home while we remained with him. we had a fire lighted in this lodge
and retired to it accompanyed by the Cheifs and as many of the considerate
men as could croud in a circcle within it. here after we had taken a
repast on some horsebeef we resumed our council with the indians which
together with smoking the pipe occupyed the ballance of the evening. I was
surprised to find on decending the hills of Commearp Cr. to find that
there had been no snow in the bottoms of that stream. it seems that the
snow melted in falling and decended here in rain while it snowed on the
plains. the hills are about six hundred feet high about one fourth of
which distance the snow had decended and still lay on the sides of the
hills. as these people had been liberal with is with rispect to provision
I directed the men not to croud their lodge surch of food in the manner
hunger has compelled them to do at most lodges we have passed, and which
the Twisted hair had informed me was disgreeable to the natives. but their
previous want of hospitality had induced us to consult their enclinations
but little and suffer our men to obtain provision from them on the best
terms they could. The village of the broken arm as I have heretofore
termed it consists of one house only which is 150 feet in length built in
the usual form of sticks matts and dry grass. it contains twenty four
fires and about double that number of families. from appearances I presume
they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise of their women pounding roots
reminds me of a nail factory. The indians seem well pleased, and I am
confident that they are not more so than our men who have their somachs
once more well filled with horsebeef and mush of the bread of cows. — the
house of coventry is also seen here.
[Clark, May 10, 1806]
Saturday 10th of May 1806 This morning the Snow continued falling untill
1/2 past 6 A M when it Seased. the air keen and Cold the Snow 8 inches
deep on the plain. we Collected our horses and after takeing a Scanty
brackfast of roots, we Set out for the Village of the Chief with a flag,
and proceeded on through an open plain. the road was Slipry and the Snow
Cloged and caused the horses to trip very frequently. the mud at heads of
the Streams which we passed was deep and well Supplied with the Car mash.
Drewyer turned off the road to hunt near the river to our lef and did not
join us to day. at 4 P M we arrived at the Village of Tin nach-e-moo-toolt
the Chief whome We had left a flag. this flag was hoisted on a pole unde
the flag the Chief met me and Conducted me to a Spot near a Small run
about 80 paces from his Lodges where he requested me to halt which I did.
Soon after Cap Lewis who was in the rear Came up and we Smoked with and
told this Chief our Situation in respect to provisions. they brought
foward about 2 bushels of quawmash 4 Cakes of bread made of roots and a
dried fish. we informed the Chief that our Party was not accustomed to
eate roots without flesh & proposed to exchange Some of our oald
horses for young ones to eate. they Said that they would not exchange
horses, but would furnish us with Such as we wished, and produced 2 one of
which we killed and informd. them that we did not wish to kill the other
at this time. we gave Medals to the broken arm or Tin-nach-e-moo tolt and
Hoh-halt-ill-pitp two principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Natn. and was
informed that there was one other Great Chief (in all 4) who had but one
eye. he would be here tomorrow. a large Lodge of Leather was pitched and
Capt. Lewis and my Self was envited into it. we entered and the Chief and
principal men came into the lodge and formed a Circle a parcel of wood was
Collected and laid at the dore and a fire made in this Conic lodge before
we entered it. the Chief requested that we might make the Lodge our homes
while we remained with him. here after we had taken a repast on roots
& horse beef we resumed our Council with the indians which together
with Smokeing took up the ballance of the evening. I was Supprised to find
decending the hill to Commearp Creek to find that there had been no snow
in the bottoms of that Stream. it seams that the Snow melted in falling
and decended here in rain while it snowed in the plain. the hills are
about Eight hundred feet high about 1/4 of which distance the Snow had
decended and Still lay on the Sides of the hill. as those people had been
liberal I directed the men not to croud their Lodge in serch of food the
manner hunger has Compelled them to do, at most lodges we have passed, and
which the Twisted Hair had informed us was disagreeable to the nativs. but
their previous want of hospitality had enduced us to consult their
enclinations but little and Suffer our men to obtain provisions from them
on the best terms they could.
The Village of the broken Arm consists of one house or Lodge only which is
150 feet in length built in the usial form of Sticks, Mats and dry grass.
it contains 24 fires and about double that number of families. from
appearance I prosume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise of their
women pounding the cows roots remind me of a nail factory. The Indians
appear well pleased, and I am Confident that they are not more so than our
men who have their Stomach once more well filled with horse beef and the
bread of cows. Those people has Shewn much greater acts of hospitallity
than we have witnessed from any nation or tribe Since we have passed the
rocky Mountains. in Short be it Spoken to their immortal honor it is the
only act which diserves the appelation of hospitallity which we have
witnessed in this quarter.
[Lewis, May 11, 1806]
Sunday May 11th 1806. The last evening we were much crouded with the
indians in our lodge, the whole floor of which was covered with their
sleeping carcases. we arrose early and took breakfast. at 8 A.M. a Cheif
of great note among these people arrived from his village or lodge on the
S. side of Lewis's River. this is a stout fellow of good countenance about
40 years of age and has lost the left eye. his name is Yoom-park'-kar-tim.
to this man we gave a medal of the smal kind. those with the likeness of
Mr. Jefferson have all been disposed of except one of the largest size
which we reserve for some great Cheif on the Yellow rock river. we now
pretty fully informed ourselves that Tunnachemootoolt, Neeshneparkkeeook,
Yoomparkkartim and Hohastillpilp were the principal Cheif of the
Chopunnish nation and ranked in the order here mentioned; as all those
cheifs were present in our lodge we thought it a favourable time to repeat
what had been said yesterday and to enter more minutely into the views of
our government with rispect to the inhabitants of this western part of the
continent, their intention of establishing trading houses for their
releif, their wish to restore peace and harmony among the natives, the
strength power and wealth of our nation &c. to this end we drew a map
of the country with a coal on a mat in their way and by the assistance of
the snake boy and our interpretters were enabled to make ourselves
understood by them altho it had to pass through the French, Minnetare,
Shoshone and Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being tedious it
ocupyed nearly half the day before we had communicated to them what we
wished. they appeared highly pleased. after this council was over we
amused ourselves with shewing them the power of magnetism, the spye glass,
compass, watch, air-gun and sundry other articles equally novel and
incomprehensible to them. they informed us that after we had left the
Minnetares last spring that three of their people had visited that nation
and that they had informed them of us and had told them that we had such
things in our possession but that they could not place confidence in the
information untill they had now witnessed it themselves. — A young
man, son of a conspicuous Cheif among these people who was killed not long
since by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie, brought and presented us a very
fine mare and colt. he said he had opened his ears to our councils and
would observe them strictly, and that our words had made his heart glad.
he requested that we would accept this mear and colt which he gave in
token of his determination to pursue our advise. — about 3 P.M.
Drewyer arrived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that the
snow still continued to cover the plain. many of the natives apply to us
for medical aid which we gave them cheerfully so far as our skill and
store of medicine would enable us. schrofela, ulsers, rheumatism, soar
eyes, and the loss of the uce of their limbs are the most common cases
among them. the latter case is not very common but we have seen thee
instances of it among the Chopunnish. it is a very extraordinary
complaint. a Cheif of considerable note at this place has been afflicted
with it for three years, he is incapable of moving a single limb but lies
like a corps in whatever position he is placed, yet he eats heartily,
digests his food perfectly, injoys his understanding, his pulse are good,
and has retained his flesh almost perfectly, in short were it not that he
appears a little pale from having lain so long in the shade he might well
be taken for a man in good health. I suspect that their confinement to a
diet of roots may give rise to all those disorders except the rheumatism
& soar eyes, and to the latter of these, the state of debility
incident to a vegetable diet may measureably contribute. — The
Chopunnish notwithstanding they live in the crouded manner before
mentioned are much more clenly in their persons and habitations than any
nation we have seen since we left the Ottoes on the river Platte. — The
Twisted hair brought us six of our horses.
[Clark, May 11, 1806]
Sunday 11th May 1806 Some little rain last night. we were Crouded in the
Lodge with Indians who continued all night and this morning Great numbers
were around us. The One Eyed Chief Yoom-park-kar-tim arived and we gave
him a medal of the Small Size and Spoke to the Indians through a Snake boy
Shabono and his wife. we informed them who we were, where we Came from
& our intentions towards them, which pleased them very much. a young
man Son to the great Chief who was killed not long Sence by the Indians
from the N. E. brought an elegant mare and Coalt and Gave us. and Said he
had opend. his ears to what we had Said and his heart was glad and
requested us to take this mare and Coalt as a token of his deturmination
to pursue our Councels &c. The twisted hair brough Six of our horses
all in fine order. Great numbers of Indians apply to us for medical aide
which we gave them Cherfully So far as our Skill and Store of Medicine
would enable us. Schrofla, ulsers, rhumitism, Sore eyes, and the loss of
the use of their Limbs are the most common cases among them. the latter
Case is not very common but We have Seen 3 instances of it among the
Chopunnish. a very extroadinery complnt. about 3 P.M. Geo. drewyer arived
with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that the Snow Still
Continued to cover the plains. We are now pretty well informed that
Tunnachemootoolt, Hohastillpilp, Neshneparkkeeook, and Yoomparkkartim were
the principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation and ranked in the order here
mentioned; as all those chiefs were present in our lodge we thought it a
favourable time to repeet what had been said and to enter more minutely
into the views of our government with respect to the inhabitents of this
Western part of the Continent, their intention of establishing tradeing
houses for their relief, their wish to restore peace and harmony among the
nativs, the Strength welth and powers of our Nation &c. to this end we
drew a map of the Country with a coal on a mat in their way, and by the
assistance of the Snake boy and our intrepeters were enabled to make
ourselves under stood by them altho it had to pass through French,
Minnetare, Shoshone and Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being
tegious it occupied the greater part of the day, before we had
communicated to them what we wished. they appeared highly pleased. after
this Council was over we amused ourselves with Shewing them the power of
Magnetism, the Spye glass, compass, watch, air gun and Sundery other
articles equally novel and incomprehensible to them. they informed us that
after we left the Menetares last Spring that 3 of their people had visited
that nation, and that they had informed them of us, and had told them that
we had Such things in our possession but that they Could not place
Confidence in the information untill they had now witnessed it themselves
In the evening a man was brought in a robe by four Indians and laid down
near me. they informed me that this man was a Chief of Considerable note
who has been in the Situation I see him for 5 years. this man is incapable
of moveing a single limb but lies like a corps in whatever position he is
placed, yet he eats hartily, dejests his food perfectly, enjoys his under
standing, his pulse are good, and has retained his flesh almost perfectly;
in Short were it not that he appears a little pale from having been So
long in the Shade, he might well be taken for a man in good health. I
Suspect that their Confinement to a deet of roots may give rise to all the
disordes of the Nativs of this quarter except the Rhumitism & Sore
eyes, and to the latter of those, the State of debility incident to a
vegitable diet may measureably contribute.. The Chopunnish not
withstanding they live in the Crouded manner before mentioned are much
more clenly in their persons and habitations than any nation we have Seen
Sence we left the Illinois. These nativs take their fish in the following
manner to wit. a Stand Small Stage or warf consisting of Sticks and
projecting about 10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the water
on the extremity of this the fisherman stands with his guilt or a Skooping
Net which differ but little in their form those Commonly used in our
Country it is formed thus with those nets they take the Suckers and also
the Salmon trout and I am told the Salmon also.
[Lewis, May 12, 1806]
Monday May 12th 1806. This morning a great number of indians collected
about us as usual. we took an early breakfast and Capt. C. began to
administer eyewater to a croud of at least 50 applicants. The Indians held
a council among themselves this morning with rispect to the subjects on
which we had spoken to them yesterday. the result as we learnt was
favourable. they placed confidence in the information they had received
and resolved to pusue our advise. after this council was over the
principal Cheif or the broken Arm, took the flour of the roots of cows and
thickened the scope in the kettles and baskets of all his people, this
being ended he made a harangue the purport of which was making known the
deliberations of their council and impressing the necessity of unanimity
among them and a strict attention to the resolutions which had been agreed
on in councill; he concluded by inviting all such men as had resolved to
abide by the decrees of the council to come and eat and requested such as
would not be so bound to shew themselves by not partaking of the feast. I
was told by one of our men who was present, that there was not a
dissenting voice on this great national question, but all swallowed their
objections if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush. during the
time of this loud and animated harangue of the Cheif the women cryed wrung
their hands, toar their hair and appeared to be in the utmost distress.
after this cerimony was over the Cheifs and considerate men came in a body
to where we were seated at a little distance from our tent, and two young
men at the instance of the nation, presented us each with a fine horse. we
caused the cheifs to be seated and gave them each a flag a pound of powder
and fifty balls. we also gave powder and ball to the two young men who had
presented the horses. Neeshneeparkkeeook gave Drewyer a good horse. The
band of Ten-nach-e-moo-toolt have six guns which they acquired from the
Minnetaries and appear anxious to obtain arms and amunition. after they
had received those presents the Cheifs requested we would retire to the
tent whither they accompanied us, they now informed us that they wished to
give an answer to what we had said to them the preceeding day, but also
informed us that there were many of their people waiting in great pain at
that moment for the aid of our medecine. it was agreed between Capt. C.
and myself that he should attend the sick as he was their favorite
phisician while I would here and answer the Cheifs. The father of
Hohastillpilp was the orrator on this occasion. he observed that they had
listened with attention to our advise and that the whole nation were
resolved to follow it, that they had only one heart and one tongue on this
subject. he said they were fully sensible of the advantages of peace and
that the ardent desire which they had to cultivate peace with their
neighbours had induced his nation early last summer to send a pipe by 3 of
their brave men to the Shoshonees on the S. side of Lewis's river in the
Plains of Columbia, that these people had murdered these men, which had
given rise to the war expedition against that nation last fall; that their
warriors had fallen in with the shoshonees at that time and had killed 42
of them with the loss of 3 only on their part; that this had satisfyed the
blood of their disceased friends and that they would never again make war
against the Shoshonees, but were willing to receive them as friends. that
they valued the lives of their young men too much to wish them to be
engaged in war. That as we had not yet seen the black foot Indians and the
Minnetares of Fort de Prarie they did not think it safe to venture over to
the Plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go provided those
nations would not kill them. that when we had established our forts on the
Missouri as we had promised, they would come over and trade for arms
Amunition &c. and live about us. that it would give them much pleasure
to be at peace with these nations altho they had shed much of their blood.
he said that the whitemen might be assured of their warmest attatchment
and that they would alwas give them every assistance in their power; that
they were poor but their hearts were good. he said that some of their
young men would go over with us to the Missouri and bring them the news as
we wished, and that if we could make a peace between themselves and their
enimies on the other side of the mountain their nation would go over to
the Missouri in the latter end of the summer. on the subject of one of
their cheifs accompanying us to the Land of the whitemen they could not
yet determine, but that they would let us know before we left them. that
the snow was yet so deep in the mountain if we attempted to pass we would
certainly perish, and advised us to remain untill after the next full moon
when the said the snow would disappear and we could find grass for our
horses. — when the oald man had concluded I again spoke to them at
some length with which they appeared highly gratifyed. after smoking the
pipe which was about 2 P.M. they gave us another fat horse to kill which
was thankfully received by the party. Capt C. now joined us having just
made an end of his medical distrabution. we gave a phiol of eyewater to
the Broken Arm, and requested that he would wash the eyes of such as might
apply for that purpose, and that when it was exhausted we would replenish
the phiol. he was much pleased with this present. we now gave the Twisted
hair one gun and a hundred balls and 2 lbs. of powder in part for his
attention to our horses and promised the other gun and a similar quantity
of powder and lead when we received the ballance of our horses. this gun
we had purchased of the indians below for 2 Elkskins. this evening three
other of our original stock of horses were produced, they were in fine
order as well as those received yesterday. we have now six horses out
only, as our old guide Toby and his son each took a horse of ours when
they returned last fall. these horses are said to be on the opposite side
of the river at no great distance from this place. we gave the young men
who had delivered us the two horses this morning some ribbon, blue wampum
and vermillion, one of them gave me a hansome pare of legings and the
Broken Arm gave Capt. C. his shirt, in return for which we gave him a
linin shirt. — we informed the indians of our wish to pass the river
and form a camp at some proper place to fish, hunt, and graize our horses
untill the snows of the mountains would permit us to pass. they
recommended a position a few miles distant from hence on the opposite side
of the river, but informed us that there was no canoe at this place by
means of which we could pass our baggage over the river, but promised to
send a man early in the morning for one which they said would meet us at
the river by noon the next day. The indians formed themselves this evening
into two large parties and began to gamble for their beads and other
ornaments. the game at which they played was that of hiding a stick in
their hands which they frequently changed acompanying their opperations
with a song. this game seems common to all the nations in this country,
and dose not differ from that before discribed of the Shoshonees on the S.
E. branch of Lewis's river. we are anxious to procure some guides to
accompany us on the different routs we mean to take from Travellers rest;
for this purpose we have turned our attention to the Twisted hair who has
several sons grown who are well acquainted as well as himself with the
various roads in those mountains. we invited the old fellow to remove his
family and live near us while we remained; he appeared gratifyed with this
expression of our confidence and promissed to do so. — shot at a mark
with the indians, struck the mark with 2 balls. distn. 220 yds.
[Clark, May 12, 1806]
Monday 12th May 1806 a fine Morning great number of Indians flock about us
as usial. after brackfast I began to administer eye water and in a fiew
minits had near 40 applicants with Sore eyes, and maney others with other
Complaints most Common Rhumatic disorders & weaknesses in the back and
loins perticularly the womin. the Indians had a grand Council this morning
after which we were presented each with a horse by two young men at the
instance of the nation. we caused the chiefs to be Seated and gave then
each a flag a pint of Powder and 50 balls to the two young men who had
presented the horses we also gave powder and ball. The broken arm or Tun
na the mootoolt pulled off his leather Shirt and gave me. I in return gave
him a Shirt. we retired into the Lodge and the natives Spoke to the
following purpote, i e they had listened to our advice and that the whole
nation were deturmined to follow it, that they had only one heart and one
tongue on this Subject. explained the Cause of the War with the Shoshones.
they wished to be at peace with all nations & Some of their Men would
accompany us to the Missouri &c. &c. as a great number of men
women & Children were wateing and requesting medical assistance maney
of them with the most Simple Complaints which Could be easily releived,
independent of maney with disorders intirely out of the power of Medison
all requesting Some thing, we agreed that I Should administer and Capt L — to
here and answer the Indians. I was closely employed until 12 P.M.
administering eye water to about 40 grown persons. Some Simple Cooling
Medicenes to the disabled Chief, to Several women with rhumatic effections
& a man who had a Swelled hip &c. &c-. in the evening three of
our horses were brought all in fine order. we have now only Six remaining
out. we gave to each a Chief a pint of Powder and 50 Balls a Small flag
and to the two young men who delivered us the horses we gave also powder
& Ball and Some blue wompom & ribin. all appeared much pleased-.
Those people are much affraid of the black foot indians, and the Big
bellies of Fort deprarie establishment. those indians kill great numbers
of this nation whenever they pass over to hunt on the Missouri. one of our
men bought a horse for a fiew Small articles of an Indian. The Indians
brought up a fat horse and requested us to kill and eate it as they had
nothing else to offer us to eate. The Cut nose made a present of a horse
to Drewyer at the Same time the two horses were offered to Capt. Lewis
& my self. The horses of those people are large well formed and
active. Generally in fine order. Sore backs Caused by rideing them either
with out Saddles, or with pads which does not prevent the wate of the
rider pressing imedeately on the back bone, and weathers of the horse. the
Indians formed two partis and plaied for their heeds. we gave the twisted
hair a gun, powder & 100 ball in part for takeing care of our horses
&c.
and wish him to Camp near us untill we Crossed the Mountains which he
agreeed to do, and was much pleased we have turned our attentions towards
the twisted hair who has Several Sons grown who are well acquainted as
well as himself with the various roads through the rocky Mountains and
will answer very well as guides to us through those Mountains-In the
Council to day the father of Hohastillpelp Said the Chopunnish were fully
Convinced of the advantages of peace and ardently wished to cultivate
peace with their neighbours. early last Summer 3 of their brave men were
Sent with a pipe to the Shoshones on the S E. fork of Lewis's river in the
Plains of Columbia, their pipe was disreguarded and their 3 men murdered,
which had given rise to the War expedition against that nation last fall;
that their warriers had fallen in with and killed 42 of the Shoshones with
the loss of 3 men only on their part; that this had Satisfied the blood of
the deceased friends and they would never again make war against the
Shoshones, but were willing to receve them as friends-. That as we had not
Seen the Indians towards Fort de prere they did not think it Safe to
venture over to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go
provided those nations would not kill them. I gave a vial of eye water to
the Broken arm for to wash the eyes of all who applied to him and told him
when it was out we would replenish it again
[Lewis, May 13, 1806]
Tuesday May 13th 1806. This morning Capt. C. as usual was busily engaged
with his patients untill eleven OCk. at 1 P.M. we collected our horses and
set out for the river escorted by a number of the natives on horseback. we
followed the creek downwards about two miles, passing a stout branch at 1
m. which flowed in on the wright. our course S. E. we now entered an
extensive open bottom of the Kooskooske R. through which we passed nearly
N. about 11/2 miles and halted on the bank of the river at the place
appointed to meet the canoe. the man had set out early this morning for
the purpose but had not yet arrived with the canoe we therefore unloaded
our horses and turned them out to graize. as the canoe did not arrive
untill after sunset we remained here all night; a number of the natives
continued with us. in the evening we tryed the speed of several of our
horses. these horses are active strong and well formed. these people have
immence numbers of them 50, 60 or a hundred hed is not unusual for an
individual to possess. The Chopunnish are in general stout well formed
active men. they have high noses and many of them on the acqueline order
with cheerfull and agreeable countenances; their complexions are not
remarkable. in common with other savage nations of America they extract
their beards but the men do not uniformly extract the hair below, this is
more particularly confined to the females. I observed several men among
them whom I am convinced if they had shaved their beards instead of
extracting it would have been as well supplyed in this particular as any
of my countrymen. they appear to be cheerfull but not gay; they are fond
of gambling and of their amusements which consist principally in shooting
their arrows at a bowling target made of willow bark, and in riding and
exercising themselves on horseback, racing &c. they are expert
marksmen and good riders. they do not appear to be so much devoted to
baubles as most of the nations we have met with, but seem anxious always
to obtain articles of utility, such as knives, axes, tommahawks, kettles
blankets and mockerson alls. blue beads however may form an exception to
this remark; this article among all the nations of this country may be
justly compared to goald or silver among civilized nations. They are
generally well cloathed in their stile. their dress consists of a long
shirt which reaches to the middle of thye, long legings which reach as
high as the waist, mockersons, and robes. these are formed of various
skins and are in all rispects like those particularly discribed of the
Shoshones. their women also dress like the Shoshones. their ornaments
consist of beads shells and peices of brass variously attatched to their
dress, to their ears arrond their necks wrists arms &c. a bando of
some kind usually surrounds the head, this is most frequently the skin of
some fir animal as the fox otter &c. tho they have them also of
dressed skin without the hair. the ornament of the nose is a single shell
of the wampum. the pirl and beads are suspended from the ears. beads are
woarn arround their wrists necks and over their sholders crosswise in the
form of a double sash. the hair of the men is cewed in two rolls which
hang on each side in front of the body as before discribed of other
inhabitants of the Columbia. collars of bears claws are also common; but
the article of dress on which they appear to bstow most pains and
ornaments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is most commonly a strip
of otterskin of about six inches wide taken out of the center of the skin
it's whole length including the head. this is dressed with the hair on; a
hole is cut lengthwise through the skin near the head of the animal
sufficiently large to admit the head of the person to pass. thus it is
placed about the neck and hangs in front of the body the tail frequently
reaching below their knees; on this skin in front is attatched peices of
pirl, beads, wampum peices of red cloth and in short whatever they
conceive most valuable or ornamental. I observed a tippit woarn by
Hohastillpilp, which was formed of human scalps and ornamented with the
thumbs and fingers of several men which he had slain in battle. their
women brade their hair in two tresses which hang in the same position of
those of the men. they also wear a cap or cup on the head formed of
beargrass and cedar bark. the men also frequently attatch some small
ornament to a small plat of hair on the center of the crown of their
heads.
[Clark, May 13, 1806]
Tuesday 13th May 1806. a fine morning I administered to the Sick and gave
directions. we collected all our horses and Set out at 1 P.M. and
proceeded down the Creek to the Flat head River a Short distance below the
enterance of the Creek at the distance of 3 miles from the Village. at
this place we expected to have met the Canoe which was promised to be
furnished us, and for which an indian Set out very early this morning. we
halted at the Flat Head River unloaded our horses and turnd. them out to
feed. Several Indians accompanied us to the river and Continued untill
evening. The man who Set out early this morning to the forks of this river
for a Canoe and was to meet us at this place. as the Canoe did not arive
untill after Sun set we remained all night; in the evening we tried the
Speed of Several of our horses. these horses are strong active and well
formed. Those people have emence numbers of them 50 or 60 or a Hundred
head is not unusial for an individual to possess.
The Chopunnish are in general Stout well formd active men. they have high
noses and maney of them on the acqueline order with chearfull and
agreeable countinances; their complexions are not remarkable. in common
with other Indian Nations of America they extract their beard, but the men
do not uniformly extract the hair below, this is more particularly
confined to the females. they appear to be cheerfull but not gay; they are
fond of gambling and of their amusements which consists principally in
shooting their arrows at a targit made of Willow bark, and in rideing and
exersiseing themselves on horsback, raceing &c. they are expirt marks
men & good riders. they do not appear to be So much devoted to baubles
as most of the nations we have met with, but Seen anxious always to riceve
articles of utility, Such as knives, axes, Kittles, blankets &
Mockerson awls. blue beeds however may form an exception to this remark;
This article among all the nations of this Country may be justly compared
to gold and Silver among civilized nations. They are generally well
clothed in their Stile. their dress Consists of a long shirt which reaches
to the middle of leg, long legins which reach as high as the waist,
mockersons & robe. those are formed of various skins and are in all
respects like those of the Shoshone. Their orniments consists of beeds,
Shells and peices of brass variously attached to their dress, to their
ears arround theire necks wrists arms &c. a band of Some kind usially
Serounds the head, this is most frequently the Skin of Some fer animal as
the fox otter &c.; I observed a tippet worn by Hohastillpilp, which
was formed of Humane Scalps and ornemented with the thumbs and fingers of
Several men which he had Slain in battle. they also were a coller or
breast plate of otter Skin orniminted with Shells beeds & quills. the
women brade their hair in two tresses which hang in the same position of
those of the men, which ar Cewed and hang over each sholder. &c
[Lewis, May 14, 1806]
Wednesday May 14th 1806. The morning was fair, we arrose early and
dispatched a few of our hunters to the opposite side of the river, and
employed a part of the men in transporting our baggage to the opposite
shore wile others were directed to collect the horses; at 10 A.M. we had
taken our baggage over and collected our horses, we then took breakfast,
after which we drove our horses into the river which they swam without
accedent and all arrived safe on the opposite shore. the river is 150 yds.
wide at this place and extreemly rapid. tho it may be safely navigated at
this season, as the water covers all the rocks which lie in it's bed to a
considerable debth. we followed our horses and again collected them, after
which we removed our baggage to a position which we had previously
selected for our permanent camp about half a mile below. this was a very
eligible spot for defence it had been an ancient habitation of the
indians; was sunk about 4 feet in the ground and raised arround it's outer
edge about three 1/2 feet with a good wall of eath. the whole was a circle
of about 30 feet in diameter. arround this we formed our tents of sticks
and grass facing outwards and deposited our baggage within the sunken
space under a shelter which we constructed for the purpose. our situation
was within 40 paces of the river in an extentsive level bottom thinly
timbered with the longleafed pine. here we are in the vicinity of the best
hunting grounds from indian information, are convenient to the salmon
which we expect daily and have an excellent pasture for our horses. the
hills to the E and North of us are high broken and but partially timbered;
the soil is rich and affords fine grass. in short as we are compelled to
reside a while in this neighbourhood I feel perfectly satisfyed with our
position.immediately after we had passed the river Tunnachemootoolt and
Hosastillpilp arrived on the south side with a party of a douzen of their
young men; they began to sing in token of friendship as is their custom,
and we sent the canoe over for them. they left their horses and came over
accompanyed by several of their party among whom were the 2 young men who
had presented us with two horses in behalf of the nation; one of these was
the son of Tunnachemootoolt and the other the son of the Cheif who was
killed by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie last year and the same who had
given us the mare and Colt. we received them at our camp and smoked with
them; after some hours Hohastillpilp with much cerimony presented me with
a very eligant grey gelding which he had brought for that purpose. I gave
him in return a handkercheif 200 balls and 4 lbs. of powder. with which he
appeared perfectly satisfyed. Collins killed two bear this morning and was
sent with two others in quest of the meat; with which they returned in the
evening; the mail bear was large and fat the female was of moderate size
and reather meagre. we had the fat bear fleaced in order to reserve the
oil for the mountains. both these bear were of the speceis common to the
upper part of the missouri. they may be called white black grzly brown or
red bear for they are found of all those colours. perhaps it would not be
unappropriate to designate them the variagated bear. we gave the indians
who were about 15 in number half the female bear, with the sholder head
and neck of the other. this was a great treat to those poor wretches who
scarcely taist meat once a month. they immediately prepared a brisk fire
of dry wood on which they threw a parsel of smooth stones from the river,
when the fire had birnt down and heated the stones they placed them level
and laid on a parsel of pine boughs, on these they laid the flesh of the
bear in flitches, placing boughs between each course of meat and then
covering it thickly with pine boughs; after this they poared on a small
quantity of water and covered the whoe over with earth to the debth of
four inches. in this situation they suffered it to remain about 3 hours
when they took it out. I taisted of this meat and found it much more
tender than that which we had roasted or boiled, but the strong flavor of
the pine distroyed it for my pallate. Labuish returned late in the evening
and informed us that he had killed a female bear and two large cubbs, he
brought with him several large dark brown pheasants which he had also
killed. Shannon also returned with a few pheasants and two squirrells. we
have found our stone horses so troublesome that we indeavoured to exchange
them with the Chopunnish for mears or gelings but they will not exchange
altho we offer 2 for one; we came to a resolution to castrate them and
began the operation this evening one of the indians present offered his
services on this occasion. he cut them without tying the string of the
stone as is usual, and assures us that they will do much better in that
way; he takes care to scrape the string very clean and to seperate it from
all the adhereing veigns before he cuts it. we shall have an opportunity
of judging whether this is a method preferable to that commonly practiced
as Drewyer has gelded two in the usual way. The indians after their feast
took a pipe or two with us and retired to rest much pleased with their
repast. these bear are tremendious animals to them; they esteem the act of
killing a bear equally great with that of an enimy in the field of action. — I
gave the claws of those which Collins killed to Hohastillpilp.
[Clark, May 14, 1806]
Wednesday 14th of May 1806 a fine day. we had all our horses Collected by
10 a.m. dureing the time we had all our baggage Crossed over the Flat head
River which is rapid and about 150 yards wide. after the baggage was over
to the North Side we Crossed our horss without much trouble and hobbled
them in the bottom after which we moved a Short distance below to a
convenient Situation and formed a Camp around a very conveniant Spot for
defence where the Indiands had formerly a house under ground and hollow
circler Spot of about 30 feet diamieter 4 feet below the Serfce and a Bank
of 2 feet above this Situation we Concluded would be Seffiently convenient
to hunt the wood lands for bear & Deer and for the Salmon fish which
we were told would be here in a fiew days and also a good Situation for
our horses. the hills to the E. & N. of us are high broken & but
partially timbered; the soil rich and affords fine grass. in Short as we
are Compelled to reside a while in this neighbourhood I feel perfectly
Satisfied with our position. imediately after we had Crossed the river the
Chief Called the broken Arm or Tin nach-e-moo toll another principal Chief
Hoh-host'-ill-pitp arived on the opposite Side and began to Sing. we Sent
the Canoe over and those Chiefs, the Son of the broken arm and the Sone of
a Great Chief who was killed last year by the Big bellies of Sas kas she
win river. those two young men were the two whome gave Capt Lewis and my
self each a horse with great serimony in behalf of the nation a fiew days
ago, and the latter a most elligant mare & colt the morning after we
arived at the Village. Hohast ill pilt with much Serimoney presented Capt.
Lewis with an elegant Gray horse which he had brought for that purpose.
Capt Lewis gave him in return a Handkerchief two hundred balls and four
pouds of powder with which he appeared perfictly Satisfyed, and appeared
much pleased.
Soon after I had Crossed the river and during the time Cap Lewis was on
the opposit Side John Collins whome we had Sent out verry early this
morning with Labiech and Shannon on the North Side of the river to hunt,
Came in and informed me, that he had killed two Bear at about 5 miles
distant on the up lands. one of which was in good order. I imediately
depatched Jo. Fields & P. Wiser with him for the flesh. we made
Several attempts to exchange our Stalions for Geldings or mars without
success we even offered two for one. those horses are troublesom and Cut
each other very much and as we Can't exchange them we think it best to
Castrate them and began the opperation this evening one of the Indians
present offered his Services on this occasion. he Cut them without tying
the String of the Stone as is usial. he Craped it very Clean &
Seperate it before he Cut it. about Meredian Shannon Came in with two
Grows & 2 Squireles Common to this Country. his mockersons worn out
obliged to come in early.
Collins returned in the evening with the two bears which he had killed in
the morning one of them an old hee was in fine order, the other a female
with Cubs was Meagure. we gave the Indians about us 15 in number two
Sholders and a ham of the bear to eate which they cooked in the following
manner. to wit on a brisk fire of dryed wood they threw a parcel of Small
Stones from the river, when the fire had burnt down and heated the Stone,
they placed them level and laid on a parsel of pine boughs, on those they
laid the flesh of the bear in flitches, placeing boughs between each
course of meat and then Covering it thickly with pine boughs; after this
they poared on a Small quantity of water, and Covered the whole over with
earth to the debth of 4 inches. in this Situation they Suffered it to
remain about 3 hours when they took it out fit for use. at 6 oClock P M
Labiech returned and informed us that he had killed a female Bear and two
Cubs, at a long distance from Camp towards the mountains. he brought in
two large dark brown pheasents which he had also killed Shannon also
returned also with a few black Pheasents and two squirels which he had
killed in the wood land towards Collins Creek. This nation esteem the
Killing of one of those tremendeous animals (the Bear) equally great with
that of an enemy in the field of action-. we gave the Claws of those bear
which Collins had killed to Hohastillpelp.
[Lewis, May 15, 1806]
Thursday May 15th 1806. This morning early Reubin Fields in surching for
his horse saw a large bear at no great distance from camp; several men
went in pursuit of the bear, they followed his trail a considerable
distance but could not come up with him. Labuish and Shannon set out with
a view to establish a hunting camp and continuing several days, two others
accompanyed them in order to bring in the three bear which Labuish had
killed. Drewyer and Cruzatte were sent up the river; Sheilds R. Feilds and
Willard hunted in the hills near the camp they returned in the evening
with a few pheasants only and reported that there was much late appearance
of bear, but beleived that they had gone off to a greater distance. at 11
A.M. the men returned with the bear which Labuich had killed. These bear
gave me a stronger evidence of the various coloured bear of this country
being one speceis only, than any I have heretofore had. The female was
black with a considerable proportion of white hairs intermixed and a white
spot on the breast, one of the young bear was jut black and the other of a
light redish brown or bey colour. the poil of these bear were infinitely
longer finer and thicker than the black bear their tallons also longer and
more blont as if woarn by diging roots. the white and redish brown or bey
coloured bear I saw together on the Missouri; the bey and grizly have been
seen and killed together here for these were the colours of those which
Collins killed yesterday. in short it is not common to find two bear here
of this speceis precisely of the same colour, and if we were to attempt to
distinguish them by their collours and to denominate each colour a
distinct speceis we should soon find at least twenty. some bear nearly
white have also been seen by our hunters at this place. the most striking
differences between this speceis of bear and the common black bear are
that the former are larger, have longer tallons and tusks, prey more on
other animals, do not lie so long nor so closely in winter quarters, and
will not climb a tree tho eversoheardly pressed. the variagated bear I
beleive to be the same here with those on the missouri but these are not
as ferocious as those perhaps from the circumstance of their being
compelled from the scarcity of game in this quarter to live more on roots
and of course not so much in the habit of seizing and devouring living
animals. the bear here are far from being as passive as the common black
bear they have attacked and faught our hunters already but not so fiercely
as those of the Missouri. there are also some of the common black bear in
this neighbourhood. Frazier, J. Fields and Wiser complain of violent pains
in their heads, and Howard and York are afflicted with the cholic. I
attribute these complaints to their diet of roots which they have not been
accustomed. Tunnachemootoolt and 12 of his young men left us this morning
on their return to their village. Hohastillpilp and three old men remained
untill 5 in the evening when they also departed. at 1 P.M. a party of 14
natives on horseback passed our camp on a hunting excurtion; they were
armed with bows and arrows and had decoys for the deer these are the skins
of the heads and upper portions of the necks of the deer extended in their
natural shape by means of a fraim of little sticks placed within. the
hunter when he sees a deer conceals himself and with his hand gives to the
decoy the action of a deer at feed; and thus induces the deer within
arrowshot; in this mode the indians hunt on foot in the woodlands where
they cannot pursue the deer with horses which is their favorite method
when the ground will permit. — we had all of our horses driven
together today near our camp, which we have directed shall be done each
day in order to familiarize them to each other. several of the horses
which were gelded yesterday are much swolen particularly those cut by
Drewyer, the others bled most but appear much better today than the
others.
we had our baggage better secured under a good shelter formed of grass; we
also strengthened our little fortification with pine poles and brush, and
the party formed themselves very comfortable tents with willow poles and
grass in the form of the orning of a waggon, these were made perfectly
secure as well from the heat of the sun as from rain. we had a bower
constructed for ourselves under which we set by day and sleep under the
part of an old sail now our only tent as the leather lodge has become
rotten and unfit for use. about noon the sun shines with intense heat in
the bottoms of the river. the air on the tom of the river hills or high
plain forms a distinct climate, the air is much colder, and vegitation is
not as forward by at least 15 or perhaps 20 days. the rains which fall in
the river bottoms are snows on the plain. at the distance of fifteen miles
from the river and on the Eastern border of this plain the Rocky Mountains
commence and present us with winter it it's utmost extreem. the snow is
yet many feet deep even near the base of these mountains; here we have
summer spring and winter within the short space of 15 or 20 miles. — Hohastillpilp
and the three old men being unable to pass the river as the canoe had been
taken away, returned to our camp late in the evening and remained with us
all night.
[Clark, May 15, 1806]
Thursday 15th of May 1806 This morning Reubin Fields went out to hunt his
horse very early and Saw a large bear and no great distance from Camp.
Several men went in pursute of the bear, and prosued his trail Some time
without gitting Sight of this Monster. Shannon went out with Labeach to
hunt and continue out 3 days, Gibson and Hall accompanied them for the
meat Labeech killed yesterday which they brought in by 11 A M. this
Morning the female was black with white hares intermixed and a white Spot
on the breast the Cubs were about the Size of a dog also pore. one of them
very black and the other a light redish brown or bey colour. These bear
give me a Stronger evidence of the various Coloured bear of this Country
being one Specie only, than any I have heretofore had. Several other
Colours have been seen. Drewyer and Peter Crusat went up the river. John
Shields, R. Fields and Willard hunted in the hills near Camp and returned
before 2 P. M without killing any thing except a fiew Grows. they saw but
few deer. Some bear Sign. Frazur Jo. Fields and Peter Wizer Complain of a
violent pain in their heads. Howard and York with violent Cholicks. the
Cause of those disorders we are unable to account for. their diet and the
Sudin Change of Climate must contribute. The Great Chief Tin
nach-e-moo-tolt (or broken Arm) and 12 of the young men of his nation left
us today about 11 oClock and Crossed the river to his Village
Hoh-hast-ill-pilt and 3 old men Continued with us untill about 5 P. M when
they left us and returnd. to their Village. a party of 14 Indians passed
our Camp about 1 P.M. on their way to the leavel uplands to run and kill
the deer with their horses and Bows and arrows. Some of them were also
provided with deers heads Cased for the purpose of decoying the deer.
those men continued withus but a fiew minits and proceeded on. Those
people hunt most Commonly on horse back Seround the Deer or Goat which
they find in the open plains & kill them with their arrows. tho they
Sometimes hunt the deer on foot & decoy them. we had all of our horses
drove together to day with a view to fermilurize them to each other. those
that were Cut yesterday are Stiff and Several of them much Swelled. we had
all our baggage Secured and Covered with a rouf of Straw. our little
fortification also completely Secured with brush around which our Camp is
formed. the Greater part of our Security from the rains &c. is the
grass which is formed in a kind of ruff So as to turn the rain Completely
and is much the best tents we have. as the days are worm &c. we have a
bowry made to write under which we find not only comfortable but
necessary, to keep off the intence heet of the Sun which has great effect
in this low bottom. on the high plains off the river the Climate is
entirely different cool. Some Snow on the north hill Sides near the top
and vegetation near 3 weeks later than in the river bottoms. and the rocky
Mountains imedeately in view covered Several say 4 & 5 feet deep with
Snow. here I behold three different Climats within a fiew miles a little
before dark Hoh-hast-ill-pilt and the 3 old men & one other returned
to our Camp and informed us the Canoe was a great way off and they could
not cross this evening.
[Lewis, May 16, 1806]
Friday May 16th 1806. Drewyer's horse left his camp last night and was
brought to us this morning by an indian who informed us he had found him a
considerable distance towards the mountains. Hohastillpilp and all the
natives left us about noon and informed us that they were going up the
river some distance to a place at which they expected to fine a canoe, we
gave them the head and neck of a bear, a part of which they eat and took
the ballance with them. these people sometimes kill the variagated bear
when they can get them in the open plain where they can pursue them on
horseback and shoot them with their arrows. the black bear they more
frequently kill as they are less ferocious. our sick men are much better
today. Sahcargarmeah geathered a quantity of the roots of a speceis of
fennel which we found very agreeable food, the flavor of this root is not
unlike annis seed, and they dispell the wind which the roots called Cows
and quawmash are apt to create particularly the latter. we also boil a
small onion which we find in great abundance, with other roots and find
them also an antidote to the effects of the others. the mush of roots we
find adds much to the comfort of our diet. — we sent out several
hunters this morning but they returned about 11 A.M. without success; they
killed a few pheasants only. at 5 P.M. Drewyer and Cruzatte returned
having killed one deer only. Drewyer had wounded three bear which he said
were as white as sheep but had obtained neither of them. they informed us
that the hunting was but bad in the quarter they had been, the Country was
broken and thickly covered in most parts with underbrush. a little after
dark Shannon and Labuish returned with one deer; they informed us that
game was wild and scarce, that a large creek (Collins Creek) ran parallel
with the river at the distance of about 5 or 6 miles which they found
impracticable to pass with their horses in consequence of the debth and
rapidity of it's current. beyond this creek the Indians inform us that
there is great abundance of game. Sergt. Pryor and Collins who set out
this morning on a hunting excurtion did not return this evening. — I
killed a snake near our camp, it is 3 feet 11 Inches in length, is much
the colour of the rattlesnake common to the middle atlantic states, it has
no poisonous teeth. it has 218 scutae on the abdomen and fifty nine
squamae or half formed scutae on the tail. the eye is of moderate size,
the iris of a dark yellowish brown and puple black. there is nothing
remarkable in the form of the head which is not so wide across the jaws as
those of the poisonous class of snakes usually are. — I preserved the
skin of this snake.
[Clark, May 16, 1806]
Friday 16th May 1806 a cloudy morning with Some rain which continued
untill Meridean at intervales, but very moderately. a man and boy Came to
our Camp at 11 A. M with Drewyers Horse which he informed us he found at a
long distance towards the Mtns. this horse must have Strayed from Drewyers
Camp last night. Hohhastillpelt and all the nativs left us at merdn. and
went up the river with a view to Cross at Some distance above where they
expected to find a Canoe.
we gave those people a head and Neck of the largest bear a part of which
they eate and the balance they Carefully took with them for their
children. The Indians of this Country Seldom kill the bear they are very
much afraid of them and the killing of a white or Grzley bear, is as great
a feet as two of their enimy. the fiew of those Animals which they Chance
to kill is found in the leavel open lands and pursued on horses &
killed with their Arrows. they are fond of the flesh of this animal and
eate emoderately of it when they have a Sufficiency to indulge themselves.
The men who were complaining of the head ake and Cholicks yesterday and
last night are much better to day. Shabonos Squar gatherd a quantity of
fenel roots which we find very paleatiable and nurishing food. the Onion
we also find in abundance and boil it with our meat. Shields rode out and
hunted in the morning without Suckcess he returned at 11 A.M. having
killed only a black wood pecker with a red breast as discribed hereafter.
A snake which resembles the rattle Snake in colour and Spots on the Skin,
longer and inosent. at 5 P M Drewyer and Crusat returned haveing killed
only one Deer only. D. Shot 3 White bear but Could get neither of them.
they inform us that the hunting in the derection they were is very bad.
the country hilly & brushey. a little after dark Shannon & Labiech
came in from the Chass. Shannon killed one deer which he brought in. this
deer being the only animal they Could kill. they informed that a large
Creek (Collens's Creek) run parrelal with the river at about 5 or 6 miles
distant between which there was but little game, and the Creek being high
rapid and the Smothe rocks in the bottom rendered it impossible for them
to pass it on hors back. Sergt. Pryor and Collins who Set out early this
morning hunting have not returned. we derected that the horses be drove up
in future at 12 oClock on each day
[Lewis, May 17, 1806]
Saturday May 17th 1806. It rained the greater part of the last night and
this morning untill 8 OCk. the water passed through flimzy covering and
wet our bed most perfectly in shot we lay in the water all the latter part
of the night. unfortunately my chronometer which for greater security I
have woarn in my fob for ten days past, got wet last night; it seemed a
little extraordinary that every part of my breechies which were under my
head, should have escaped the moisture except the fob where the time peice
was. I opened it and founded it nearly filled with water which I carefully
drained out exposed it to the air and wiped the works as well as I could
with dry feathers after which I touched them with a little bears oil.
several parts of the iron and steel works were rusted a little which I
wiped with all the care in my power. I set her to going and from her
apparent motion hope she has sustained no material injury. — at 9 A.M.
Sergt. Pryor and Collins returned, Sergt. Pryor brought the Skin and flesh
of a black bear which he had killed; Collins had also killed a very large
variegated bear but his horse having absconded last evening was unable to
bring it. they had secured this meat perfectly from the wolves or birds
and as it was at a considerable distance we did not think proper to send
for it today. neither of these bear were in good order. as the bear are
reather ferocious and we are obliged to depend on them pincipally for our
subsistence we thought it most advisable to direct at least two hunters to
go together, and they accordingly peared themselves out for this purpose.
we also apportioned the horses to the several hunters in order that they
should be equally rode and thereby prevent any horse being materially
injured by being too constantly hunted. we appointed the men not hunters
to take charge of certain horses in the absence of the hunters and
directed the hunters to set out in different directions early in the
morning and not return untill they had killed some game. it rained
moderately the greater part of the day and snowed as usual on the plain.
Sergt. Pryor informed me that it was shoe deep this morning when he came
down. it is somewhat astonishing that the grass and a variety of plants
which are now from a foot to 18 inches high on these plains sustain no
injury from the snow or frost; many of those plants are in blume and
appear to be of a tender susceptable texture. we have been visited by no
indians today, and occurrence which has not taken place before since we
left the Narrows of the Columbia. — I am pleased at finding the river
rise so rapidly, it now doubt is attributeable to the meting snows of the
mountains; that icy barier which seperates me from my friends and Country,
from all which makes life esteemable. — patience, patience
[Clark, May 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th May 1806 rained moderately all the last night and this
morning untill we are wet. The little river on which we are encamped rise
Sepriseingly fast. at 9 A.M. Sergt. Pryor and Collins returned with the
flesh and Skin of a Black bear on Sgt. Pryors horse. Collins's horse
haveing run off from him yesterday. they informed us that they had each
killed a Bear neither of which were fat. the one which they left in the
woods was of the white Species and very large we did not think it
necessary in the cours of this day to Send for the flesh of the bear left
in the woods. the rains of the last night unfortunately wet the Crenomuter
in the fob of Capt. L. breaches. which has never before been wet Since we
Set out on this expedition. her works were cautiously wiped and made dry
by Capt. L. and I think She will recive no injury from this misfortune
&c. we arranged the hunters and horses to each hunter and directed
them to turn out in the morning early and continue out untill they Killed
Something. others arranged so as to take care of the hunters horses in
their absence. rained moderately all day. at the Same time Snowed on the
mountains which is in to the S. E. of us. no Indians visit us to day which
is a Singular circumstance as we have not been one day without Indians
Since we left the long narrows of the Columbia. the fiew worm days which
we have had has melted the Snows in the Mountains and the river has rose
considerably. that icy barier which Seperates me from my friends and
Country, from all which makes life estimable, is yet white with the Snow
which is maney feet deep. I frequently Consult the nativs on the subject
of passing this tremendious barier which now present themselves to our
view for great extent, they all appear to agree as to the time those
Mountains may be passed which is about the Middle of June.
Sergt. pryor informs me that the Snow on the high plains from the river
was Shoe deep this morning when he Came down. it is somewhat estonishing
that the grass and a variety of Plants Sustain no injurey from the Snow or
frost; Maney of those plants are in blume and appear to be of tender
susceptable texture. At the distance of 18 Miles from the river and on the
Eastern border of the high Plain the Rocky Mountain Commences and presents
us with Winter here we have Summer, Spring and Winter in the Short Space
of twenty or thirty miles
[Lewis, May 18, 1806]
Sunday May 18th 1806. Twelve hunters turned out this morning in different
directions agreeably to the order of last evening. Potts and Whitehouse
accompanied Collins to the bear he had killed on the 16th inst. with which
they returned in the afternoon. the colours of this bear was a mixture of
light redish brown white and dark brown in which the bey or redish brown
predominated, the fur was bey as well as the lower pertion of the long
hairs, the white next succeeded in the long hairs which at their
extremites were dark brown, this uncommon mixture might be termed a bey
grizzle.
our indian woman was busily engaged today in laying in a store of the
fennel roots for the Rocky mountains. these are called by the Shoshones
year-pah. at 2 P.M. 3 Indians who had been hunting towards the place at
which we met with Chopunnish last fall, called by them the quawmash
grounds, called at our camp; they informed us that they had been hunting
several days and had killed nothing; we gave them a small peice of meat
which they told us they would reserve for their small children who were
very hungary; we smoked with them and they shortly after departed. early
this morning the natives erected a lodge on the opposite side of the river
near a fishing stand a little above us. no doubt to be in readiness for
the salmon, the arrival of which they are so ardently wishing as well as
ourselves. this stand is a small stage are warf constructed of sticks and
projecting about 10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the surface
of the water on the extremity of this the fisherman stands with his
scooping net, which differ but little in their form from those commonly
used in our country it is formed thus. the fisherman exercised himself
some hours today but I believe without success. at 3 P.M. J. Fields
returned very unwell having killed nothing. shortly after an old man and
woman arrived; the former had soar eyes and the latter complained of a lax
and rheumatic effections. we gave the woman some creem of tartar and flour
of sulpher, and washed the old man's eyes with a little eyewater. a little
before dark Drewyer R. Fields and LaPage returned having been also
unsuccessfull they had killed a hawk only and taken the part of a salmon
from an Eagle, the latter altho it was of itself not valuable was an
agreeable sight as it gave us reason to hope that the salmon would shortly
be with us. these hunters had scowered the country between the Kooskooske
and Collins's Creek from hence to their junction about 10 miles and had
seen no deer or bear and but little sign of either. shortly after dark it
began to rain and continued raining moderately all night. the air was
extreemly cold and disagreeable and we lay in the water as the preceeding
night.
[Clark, May 18, 1806]
Sunday 18th May 1806 Cloudy morning 12 hunters turned out this morning in
different directions agreeably to the order of yesterday. Potts and
Whitehouse accompanied Collins to the bear which he had killed on the 16th
and brought in the flesh and Skin. this bear was not large but remarkably
light coloured the hair of it as also the hair of all those which has been
killed is very thick and long. The Squar wife to Shabono busied her Self
gathering the roots of the fenel Called by the Snake Indians Year-pah for
the purpose of drying to eate on the Rocky mountains. those roots are very
paliatiable either fresh rosted boiled or dried and are generally between
the Size of a quill and that of a mans fingar and about the length of the
latter. at 2 P.M. 3 Indians who had been out hunting towards the place we
met with the Chopunnish last fall, which place they Call the quarmash
grounds. those men had been out Several days and killed nothing. we gave
them a Small piece of meat which they told us they would reserve for their
Small Children who was very hungary. we Smoked with them and they
departed. The nativs made a lodge on the opposit bank of the river a
little above us at a fishing place. as all communication is cut off
between us and the nativs on the opposit Side of the river, we cannot Say
by whome or for what service that lodge has been errected as no one has
been near it Since it was errected this morning. at 3 P M Jo. Field
returned from the chase without killing any thing he complains of being
unwell. Son after an old man and a woman arived the man with Sore eyes,
and the woman with a gripeing and rhumatic effections. I gave the woman a
dose of creme of tarter and flour of Sulphur, and the man Some eye water.
a little before night Rueben Field Drewyer and LaPage returned haveing
killed nothing but a large hawk they had hunted in the point between the
Kooskooske and Collins's Creek and Saw but little Sign of either deer or
Bear. the evening Cloudy, Soon after dark it began to rain and rained
moderately all night-. LaPage took a Salmon from an Eagle at a Short
distance below our Camp. this is induces us to believe that the Salmon is
in this river and most probably will be here in great numbers in the
Course of a fiew days.
[Lewis, May 19, 1806]
Monday May 19th 1806. It continued to rain this morning untill 8 OCk. when
it became fair. We sent Charbono, Thompson, Potts, Hall and Wiser over the
river to a village above in order to purchase some roots to eat with our
lean bear meat. for this purpose we gave them a few awls, Kniting pins and
Armbands. we were informed that there was a canoe at the village in which
they could pass the river. I sent Joseph and R. Feilds up the river in
surch of the horse which I rode over the Rocky mountains last fall. he had
been seen yesterday with a parse) of indian horses and has become almost
wild. at 11 A.M. Thompson returned from the village accompanied by a train
of invalids consisting of 4 men 8 women and a child. The men had soar eyes
and the women in addition to soar eyes had a variety of other complaints
principally rheumatic; a weakness and pain in the loins is a common
complaint with their women. eyewater was administered to all; to two of
the women cathartics were given, to a third who appeared much dejected and
who from their account of her disease we supposed it to be histerical, we
gave 30 drops of Laudanum. the several parts of the others where the
rheumatic pains were seated were well rubed with volitile linniment. all
of those poor wretches thought themselves much benefited and all returned
to their village well satisfyed. at 5 P.M. or marketers returned with
about 6 bushels of the cows roots and a considerable quanty of bread of
the same materials. late in the evening Reubin and Joseph Feilds returned
with my horse; we had him immediately castrated together with two others
by Drewyer in the ordinary. we amused ourselves about an hour this
afternoon in looking at the men running their horses. several of those
horses would be thought fleet in the U States. a little after dark Sheilds
and Gibson returned unsuccessful) from the chase. they had seen some deer
but no bear.
[Clark, May 19, 1806]
Monday 19th May 1806 Rained this morning untill 8 oClock when it Cleared
off and became fair-. we Sent Shabono, Thomson, Potts, Hall & Wizer
over to the Villages above to purchase Some roots to eate with our pore
bear meat, for which purchase we gave them a fiew Awls, Knitting pins,
& arm bans and directed them to proceed up on this Side of the river
opposit to the Village and Cross in the Cano which we are informed is at
that place. Sent Jo. & Reuben Field up the river a Short distance
after the horse which Capt. Lewis rode over the mountains last fall, which
horse was Seen yesterday with a gangue of Indian horses, and is Very
wild-. about 11 oClock 4 men and 8 Women Came to our Camp with Thompson
who went to the Village very early this morning. those Men applyed for Eye
water and the Women had a Variety of Complaints tho the most general
Complaint was the Rhumitism, pains in the back and the Sore eyes, they
also brought fowd. a very young Child whome they Said had been very Sick-.
I administered eye water to all, two of the women I gave a carthartic, one
whose Spirets were very low and much hipedz I gave 30 drops of Lodomem,
and to the others I had their backs hips legs thighs & arms well rubed
with Volitile leniment all of those pore people thought themselves much
benifited by what had been done for them, and at 3 P.M. they all returned
to their Villages well satisfied. at 5 P.M. Potts, Shabono &c.
returned from the Village with about 6 bushels of the root the nativs Call
Cowse and Some bread of the Same root. Rubin & Jos. Fields returned
with the horse Capt. Lewis rode across the rocky mountains we had this
horse imedeately Cut with 2 others which we had not before thought proper
to Castrate. we amused ourselves about an hour this after noon looking at
the men run their horses, Several of them would be thought Swift horses in
the atlantic States. a little after dark John Shields and Gibson returned
haveing killed nothing. they Saw Some deer but Saw no bear.
[Lewis, May 20, 1806]
Tuesday May 20th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and
continued this morning untill noon when it cleared away about an hour and
then rained at intervals untill 4 in the evening. our covering is so
indifferent that Capt C. and myself lay in the water the greater part of
the last night. Drewyer, and the two Feildses set out on a hunting
excurtion towards the mountains. Shannon and Colter came in unsuccessfull,
they had wounded a bear and a deer last evening but the night coming on
they were unable to pursue them, and the snow which fell in the course of
the night and this morning had covered the blood and rendered all further
pursuit impracticable. at 2 P.M. Labuish arrived with a large buck of the
Mule deer speceis which he had killed on Collins's Creek yesterday. he had
left Cruzatte and Collins on the Creek where they were to wait his return.
he informed us that it was snowing on the plain while it was raining at
our camp in the river bottom. late in the evening Labuish and LaPage set
out to join Collins and Cruzatte in order to resume their hunt early
tomorrow morning. this evening a party of indians assembled on the
opposite bank of the river and viewed our camp with much attention for
some time and retired. — at 5 P.M. Frazier who had been permitted to
go to the village this morning returned with a pasel of Roots and bread
which he had purchased. brass buttons is an article of which these people
are tolerably fond, the men have taken advantage of their prepossession in
favour of buttons and have devested themselves of all they had in
possesson which they have given in exchange for roots and bread.
[Clark, May 20, 1806]
Tuesday 20th May 1806 rained the greater part of the last night and this
morning untill meridean when it Cleared away for an hour and began to rain
and rained at entervals untill 4 P.M. our Covering was so indefferent that
Capt Lewis and my self was wet in our bed all the latter part of the
night. Drewyer, Jos. & R. Fields Set out to towards the mountains.
Shannon & Colter Came in without any thing. they had Seen and Shot at
a Bear and a Deer neither of which they Could get. both of those Animals
they must have Wounded Mortally, but the night Comeing on prevented their
following them, and this morning the Snow had Covered the tracks and hid
the blood and prevented their getting either of them.
at 2 P.M. Labiech Came in with a large Buck of the Mule Deer Speces which
he had killed on Collins's Creek yesterday. he left Collins and Peter
Crusat on the Creek at which place they would Continue untill his return.
he informd. us that it was Snowing on the leavel plains on the top of the
hill all the time it was raining in the bottom at our Camp. Labiech &
Lapage returned to Collins & Crusat in the evening late for the
purpose of Pursueing the hunt in the Morning early. Several Indians came
to the opposit side of the River and viewed us some time. at 5 P M Frazur
who had leave to go to the Village returned with Some roots which he had
purchased. cloudy &c.
[Lewis, May 21, 1806]
Wednesday May 21st 1806. It rained a few hours this morning. Sheilds and
Gibson set out to hunt towards the mountains. Collins came to camp at noon
and remained about 2 hours; he has killed nothing since he left us last.
we set five men at work to make a canoe for the purpose of fishing and
passing the river. the Indians have already promised us a horse for this
canoe when we have no longer any uce for her. as our tent was not
sufficient to shelter us from the rain we had a lodge constructed of
willow poles and grass in the form of the orning of a waggon closed at one
end. this we had made sufficiently large to sleep in and to shelter the
most important part of our baggage. it is perfectly secure against the
rain sun and wind and affords us much the most comfortable shelter we have
had since we left Fort Clatsop. today we divided the remnant of our store
of merchandize among our party with a view that each should purchase
therewith a parsel of roots and bread from the natives as his stores for
the rocky mountains for there seems but little probability that we shall
be enabled to make any dryed meat for that purpose and we cannot as yet
form any just idea what resource the fish will furnish us. each man's
stock in trade amounts to no more than one awl, one Kniting pin, a half an
ounce of vermillion, two nedles, a few scanes of thead and about a yard of
ribbon; a slender stock indeed with which to lay in a store of provision
for that dreary wilderness. we would make the men collect these roots
themselves but there are several speceis of hemlock which are so much like
the cows that it is difficult to discriminate them from the cows and we
are affraid that they might poison themselves. the indians have given us
another horse to kill for provision which we keep as a reserved store. our
dependence for subsistence is on our guns, the fish we may perhaps take,
the roots we can purchase from the natives and as the last alternative our
horses. we eat the last morsel of meat which we had for dinner this
evening, yet nobody seems much conserned about the state of provision.
Willard, Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich were permitted to visit the village
today; the former returned in the evening with some roots and bread, the
two last remaining all night. one of our party brought in a young sandhill
crain it was about the size of a pateridge and of a redish brown colour,
it appeared to be about 5 or six days old; these crains are abundant in
this neighbourhood.
[Clark, May 21, 1806]
Wednesday 21st May 1806 rained this morning. Shields and Gibson Set out to
hunt towards the mountains. Collins Came in to day and Stayed in about two
hours, he has killed nothing Since he went out last. we Set 5 Men at work
to build a Canoe for the purpose of takeing fish and passing the river and
for which we can get a good horse. as our tent is not Sufficient to keep
off the rain we are Compelled to have Some other resort for a Security
from the repeeted Showers which fall. we have a small half circular place
made and Covered with grass which makes a very Secure Shelter for us to
Sleep under. We devided our Store of merchindize amongst our party for the
purpose of precureing Some roots &c. of the nativs to each mans part
amounted to about an awl Knitting pin a little paint and Some thread &
2 Needles which is but a Scanty dependance for roots to take us over those
Great Snowey Barriers (rocky mountains) which is and will be the Cause of
our Detention in this neighbourhood probably untill the 10 or 15 of June.
they are at this time Covered deep with Snow. the plains on the high
Country above us is also covered with Snow. Serjt. Ordway, Goodrich, &
Willard went to the village to day to precure a fiew roots. we eate the
last of our meat for Dinner to day, and our only Certain dependance is the
roots we Can precure from the nativs for the fiew articles we have left
those roots with what Game we Can precure from the wods will probably last
us untill the arival of the Salmon. if they Should not; we have a horse in
Store ready to be killed which the indians have offered to us. Willard
returned from the Village. Sergt. Ordway and Goodrich Continued all night.
one of the men brought me a young Sandhill Crain which was about 5 or 6
days old it was of a yellowish brown Colour, about the Size of a
partridge. Those Crains are very abundant in every part of this country in
pars of two, and Sometimes three together.
the party had gathered roots with leaves still attached they probably
could have been sorted with Indian assistance. However, the parsley family
(Apiaceae) is one of the most diverse and confusing plant families in the
region, and Lewis could not be sure that the men would not bring back some
other poisonous species not well known to the Indians. The decision to
purchase roots was probably prudent.
[Lewis, May 22, 1806]
Thursday May 22ed 1806. A fine morning we exposed all our baggage to air
and dry as well as our store of roots and bread purchased from the
natives. permited Windsor and McNeal to go to the indian village. Sergt.
Ordway and Goodrich returned this morning with a good store of roots and
bread. about noon 2 indian men came down the river on a raft and continued
at our camp about 3 hours and returned to their village. we.sent out
Shannon and Colter to hunt towards the mountains. we sent Sergt. Pryor
down to the entrance of Collins's Creek to examine the country and look
out for a good position for an encampment on the river below that Creek,
having determined to remove our camp below that crek if it continues high,
as soon as we have completed our canoe, as the country to which we are
confined to hunt at present is limited by this creek and river to a very
narrow tract, and game have already become scarce. if we can obtain a good
situation below the entrance of this creek it will be much more eligible
as the hunting country is more extensive and game more abundant than
above. The horse which the indians have given us to kill was driven away
yesterday by the natives with a gang of their horses I presume in mistake;
being without meat at noon we directed one of the largest of our colts to
be killed. we found the flesh of this animal fat tender and by no means
illy flavoured. we have three others which we mean to reserve for the
rocky mountains if we can subsist here without them. my horse which was
castrated the day before yesterday wounded his thigh on the inner side
with the rope by which he was confined that evening and is now so much
swolen with the wound the castraiting and the collection of vermen that he
cannot walk, in short he is the most wretched specticle; I had his wounds
clensed of the vermen by washing them well with a strong decoction of the
bark of the roots & leaves of elder but think the chances are against
his recovery. at 3 P.M. we observed a large party of Indians on horseback
in pursuit of a deer which they ran into the river opposite to our camp;
Capt. C. Myself & three of our men shot and killed the deer in the
water; the indians pursued it on a raft and caught it. it is astonishing
to see these people ride down those steep hills which they do at full
speed. on our return to camp we found Drewyer the Two Feildses Gibson and
Sheilds just arrived with five deer which they had killed at a
considerable distance towards the mountains. they also brought with them
two red salmon trout which they had purchased from some indians whom they
had met with on their return to camp. — Two Indians who were just
arrived at our camp informed us that these salmon trout remained in this
river the greater part of the winter, that they were not good at this
season which we readily discovered, they were very meagre. these indians
also informed us that there were at this time a great number of salmon at
no great distance from hence in Lewis's river which had just arrived and
were very fat and fine, they said it would be some yet before they would
ascend this river as high as this place. a party of the natives on the
opposite shore informed those with us that a party of the Shoshones had
two nights past surrounded a lodge of their nation on the South side of
Lewis's river, that the inhabitants having timely discovered the enimy
effected their retreat in the course of the night and escaped. Charbono's
Child is very ill this evening; he is cuting teeth, and for several days
past has had a violent lax, which having suddonly stoped he was attacked
with a high fever and his neck and throat are much swolen this evening. we
gave him a doze of creem of tartar and flour of sulpher and applyed a
poltice of boiled onions to his neck as warm as he could well bear it.
Sergt. Pryor returned late in the evening and informed us that he had been
down the river eight miles and that the clifts set in so abruptly to the
river he could get no further without returning several miles back and
ascending the hills and that he had thought it best to return and ride
down tomorrow on the high plain as he believed the mouth of the creek was
a considerable distance. Drewyer who has been at the place informs us that
it is about 10 ms. and that there is no situation on the river for some
distance below this creek which can possibly answer our purposes. — we
dryed our baggage &c perfectly and put it up.
[Clark, May 22, 1806]
Thursday 22nd May 1806 a fine day we exposed all our baggage to the Sun to
air and dry, also our roots which we have precured of the nativs. gave
promission to Windser & McNeal to go to the Indian Villages. Sergt.
Ordway and goodrich returned at 11 A.M. Soon after 2 Indian men Came down
on a raft and Continued with us about 3 hours and then returned to their
Village. Shannon & Colter went out to day to hunt towards the
mountains. Sergt. Pryor went out to hunt down the river, and examine the
mouth of Collins Creek, if a good Situation was below that Creek for a
Camp. this Creek which Cannot be passed owing to it's debth & rapidity
is a great beariore in our way to the best hunting Country. it confines us
to a narrow scope between this Creek and the river on which we are Camped.
If a Situation can be found imedeately below the Creek it will answer us
better than our present one as from thence we Can get out to Some distance
to hunt, and be convenient also to the fish Should they pass up &c.
The horse the Indian's left with us to kill has been drove to their
village with a gang of horses which I suppose belonged to another man. as
the greater part of our men have not had any Meat to eate for 2 days, and
the roots they Complain of, not being accustiomed to live on them
altogether we derected a large Coalt which was given to us by a young man
with an elegant mare on the ____ instant. this Coalt was fat and was
handsom looking meat. late in the evening we were informed that the horse
which Capt L. rode over the rocky mountains and which was Cut day before
yesterday had his hip out of place Since that time, and Could not walk.
Capt. Lewis examined him and thought he Could not recover. at 3 P.M. we
observed a number of Indians in chase of a deer on their horses on the
opposit hill Sides. Soon after the deer took the water I Capt L. and 3 men
run down on this Side, and killed the deer in the water, the deer floated
down and the Indians took it by means of a raft which they had ready. on
my return to Camp found Drewyer Jos. & Reuben Fields, Shields and
gibson just arrived from the Chass with 5 Deer which they had killed on
the high lands toward the mountains. they also brought with them two
Salmon trout which they had purchased of Indians which they Saw on their
return to Camp. at 5 p. M. two young men highly decurated in their way
Came to our camp and informed us that the fat fish were in great numbers
in Lewis's river. that those Salmon trout which our hunters brought were
pore and Such as were Cought in the Winter in this river and were not the
kind which Comes up in the Spring of the year. great number of Indians
Come to the opposit bank and inform those on this Side that the Snake
Indians had come to a Lodge on Lewis's river at night. the inhabitents
previously discovering them abandened the house. Shabonoes Son a Small
child is, dangerously ill. his jaw and throat is much Swelled. we apply a
poltice of Onions. after giveing him Some creem of tarter &c. this day
proved to be fine fair which afforded us an oppertunety of drying our
baggage which had got a little wet.
[Lewis, May 23, 1806]
Friday May 23rd 1806. Sergt. Pryor wounded a deer early this morning in a
lick near camp; my dog pursud it into the river; the two young Indian men
who had remained with us all night mounted their horses swam the river and
drove the deer into the water again; Sergt. Pryor killed it as it reached
the shore on this side, the indians returned as they had passed over. we
directed half this deer to be given to the indians, they immediately made
a fire and cooked their meat, 4 others joined them from the village with
the assistance of whom they consumed their portion of the spoil in less
than 2 hours and took their leave of our camp. The Creem of tartar and
sulpher operated several times on the child in the course of the last
night, he is considerably better this morning, tho the swelling of the
neck has abated but little; we still apply polices of onions which we
renew frequently in the course of the day and night. at noon we were
visited by 4 indians who informed us they cad come from their village on
Lewis's river at the distance of two days ride in order to see us and
obtain a little eyewater, Capt. C. washed their eyes and they set out on
their return to their village. our skill as phisicans and the virture of
our medecines have been spread it seems to a great distance. I sincerely
wish it was in our power to give releif to these poor afficted wretches.
at 1 P.M. Shannon, Colter, Labuish, Cruzatte, Collins, and LaPage returned
from hunting without having killed anything except a few pheasants of the
dark brown kind, which they brought with them.These hunters informed us
that they had hunted the country deligently between the river and Creek
for some distance above and below our camp and that there was no game to
be found. all the horses which have been castrated except my poor
unfortunate horse appear as if they would do very well. I am convinced
that those cut by the indians will get well much soonest and they do not
swell nor appear to suffer as much as those cut in the common way.
[Clark, May 23, 1806]
Friday 23rd May 1806 a fair morning. Sergt. Pryor wounded a Deer at a lick
near our Camp and our dog prosued it into the river. two Indians which
happened to be at our Camp Mounted their horses and Swam across the river
chased the deer into the water again and pursued it across to the Side on
which we were, and as the Deer Came out of the Water Sgt. Pryor killed it.
we derected half of this deer to be given to those two indians. they
imediately made a fire and Cooked the meat. 4 others joined them from the
Village and they Soon consumed their portion. The Child is Something
better this morning than it was last night. we apply a fresh poltice of
the wild Onion which we repeeted twice in the Course of the day. the
Swelling does not appear to increas any Since yesterday. The 4 Indians who
visited us to day informed us that they Came from their village on Lewis's
river two days ride from this place for the purpose of Seeing of us and
getting a little eye water I washed their eyes with Some eyewater and they
all left us at 2 P.M. and returned to the Villages on the opposit Side of
this river. at 1 oClock Shannon, Colter, Labiech, Crusatt Lapage and
Collins all returned from hunting without haveing killed any thing except
a fiew heath hens & black Pheasants two of which they brought with
them. Labiech also brought a whisteling squerel which he had killed on
it's hole in the high plains. this squerel differs from those on the
Missouri in their Colour, Size, food and the length tal and from those
found near the falls of Columbia
Our hunters brought us a large hooting owl which differ from those of the
atlantic States. The plumage of this owl is an uniform mixture of dark
yellowish brown and white, in which the dark brown prodominates. it's
Colour may be properly termed a dark Iron gray. the plumage is very long
and remarkably Silky and Soft. those have not the long feathers on the
head which give it the appearance of ears, or horns, remarkable large eyes
the hunters informed us that they had hunted with great industry all the
Country between the river and for Some distance above and below without
the Smallest Chance of killing any game. they inform us that the high
lands are very cold with snow which has fallen for every day or night for
Several past. our horses which was Cut is like to doe well.
[Lewis, May 24, 1806]
Saturday May 24th 1806. The child was very wrestless last night; it's jaw
and the back of it's neck are much more swolen than they were yesterday
tho his fever has abated considerably. we gave it a doze of creem of
tartar and applyed a fresh poltice of onions. we ordered some of the
hunters out this morning and directed them to pass Collins's creek if
possible and hunt towards the quawmash feilds. William Bratton still
continues very unwell; he eats heartily digests his food well, and his
recovered his flesh almost perfectly yet is so weak in the loins that he
is scarcely able to walk nor can he set upwright but with the greatest
pain. we have tryed every remidy which our engenuity could devise, or with
which our stock of medicines furnished us, without effect. John Sheilds
observed that he had seen men in a similar situation restored by violent
sweats. Bratton requested that he might be sweated in the manner proposed
by Sheilds to which we consented. Sheilds sunk a circular hole of 3 feet
diamiter and four feet deep in the earth. he kindled a large fire in the
hole and heated well, after which the fire was taken out a seat placed in
the center of the hole for the patient with a board at bottom for his feet
to rest on; some hoops of willow poles were bent in an arch crossing each
other over the hole, on these several blankets were thrown forming a
secure and thick orning of about 3 feet high. the patient being striped
naked was seated under this orning in the hole and the blankets well
secured on every side. the patient was furnished with a vessell of water
which he sprinkles on the bottom and sides of the hole and by that means
creates as much steam or vapor as he could possibly bear, in this
situation he was kept about 20 minutes after which he was taken out and
suddonly plunged in cold water twise and was then immediately returned to
the sweat hole where he was continued three quarters of an hour longer
then taken out covered up in several blankets and suffered to cool
gradually. during the time of his being in the sweat hole, he drank
copious draughts of a strong tea of horse mint. Sheilds says that he had
previously seen the tea of Sinnecca snake root used in stead of the mint
which was now employed for the want of the other which is not be found in
this country. — this experiment was made yesterday; Bratton feels
himself much better and is walking about today and says he is nearly free
from pain. — at 11 A.M. a canoe arrived with 3 of the natives one of
them the sick man of whom I have before made mentions as having lost the
power of his limbs. he is a cheif of considerable note among them and they
seem extreemly anxious for his recovery. as he complains of no pain in any
particular part we conceive it cannot be the rheumatism, nor do we suppose
that it can be a parelitic attack or his limbs would have been more
deminished. we have supposed that it was some disorder which owed it's
origine to a diet of particular roots perhaps and such as we have never
before witnessed. while at the village of the broken arm we had
recommended a diet of fish or flesh for this man and the cold bath every
morning. we had also given him a few dozes of creem of tarter and flour of
sulpher to be repeated every 3rd day. this poor wretch thinks that he
feels himself of somewhat better but to me there appears to be no visible
alteration. we are at a loss what to do for this unfortunate man. we gave
him a few drops of Laudanum and a little portable soup. 4 of our party
pased the river and visited the lodge of the broken Arm for the purpose of
traiding some awls which they had made of the links of small chain
belonging to one of their steel traps, for some roots. they returned in
the evening having been very successfull, they had obtained a good supply
of roots and bread of cows. — this day has proved warmer than any of
the preceeding since we have arrived here.
[Clark, May 24, 1806]
Saturday 24th May 1806 a fine morning the Child was very restless last
night its jaw and back of its neck is much more Swelled than it was
yesterday. I gave it a dost of Creme of Tarter and a fresh Poltice of
Onions. ordered Shields, Gibson, Drewyer, Crusat, Collins, and Jo. &
rubin Fields to turn out hunting and if possible Cross Collins Creek and
hunt towards the quar mash fields. W. Brattin is yet very low he eats
hartily but he is So weak in the Small of his back that he Can't walk. we
have made use of every remidy to restore him without it's haveing the
desired effect. one of our party, John Shields observed that he had Seen
men in Similar Situations restored by Violent Swets. and bratten requested
that he might be Swetted in the way Sheilds purposed which we agreed to.
Shields dug a round hole 4 feet deep & 3 feet Diamuter in which he
made a large fire So as to beet the hole after which the fire was taken
out a Seet placed in the hole. the patent was then Set on the Seat with a
board under his feet and a can of water handed him to throw on the bottom
& Sides of the hole So as to create as greate a heat as he Could bear.
and the hole covered with blankets supported by hoops. after about 20
minits the patient was taken out and put in Cold water a few minits, &
returned to the hole in which he was kept about 1 hour. then taken out and
Covered with Several blankets, which was taken off by degrees untill he
became Cool. this remedy took place yesterday and bratten is walking about
to day and is much better than he has been. at 11 A.M. a canoe came down
with the Indian man who had applyed for medical assistance while we lay at
the broken arms village. this man I had given a fiew doses of Flower of
Sulpher & Creme of Tarter and derected that he Should take the Cold
bath every morning. he Conceited himself a little better than he was at
that time. he had lost the use of all his limbs and his fingers are
Contracted. We are at a loss to deturmine what to do for this unfortunate
man. I gave him a few drops of Lodman and Some portable Supe as medisine.
4 of our men Crossed the river and went to the broken arms Village and
returned in the evening with a Supply of bread and roots which they
precured in exchange for Awls which were made of pieces of a chane — we
were visited to day by the 2 young men who gave Capt. L. and my Self a
horse each at the village. those men Stayed about two hours and returned
to their village. this day proved to be very worm.
[Lewis, May 25, 1806]
Sunday May 25th 1806. It rained the greater part of last night and
continued untill 6 A.M. our grass tent is impervious to the rain. the
Child is more unwell than yesterday. we gave it a doze of creem of tartar
which did not operate, we therefore gave it a clyster in the evening. we
caused a sweat to be prepared for the indian Cheif in the same manner in
which Bratton had been sweated, this we attempted but were unable to
succeed, as he was unable to set up or be supported in the place. we
informed the indians that we knew of no releif for him except sweating him
in their sweat houses and giving him a plenty of the tea of the horsemint
which we shewed them. and that this would probably nos succeed as he had
been so long in his present situation. I am confident that this would be
an excellent subject for electricity and much regret that I have it not in
my power to supply it. — Drewyer Labuish and Cruzatte set out this
morning to hunt towards the quawmash grounds if they can possibly pass
Collins's Creek. Joseph and Reuben Feilds passed the river in order to
hunt on the opposite side some miles above where the natives inform us
that there is an abundance of bear and some deer. Goodrich visited a
village about 8 ms. above on the opposite side of the river and returned
in the evening; he procured but few roots, he informed us that there were
but 8 persons at home; the others were either hunting, diging roots or
fishing on Lewis's river. he saw several salmon in their lodges which they
informed him came from that river these fish were remarkably fat and fine.
Gibson and shields returned this evening having killed a Sandhill Crain
only. they had wounded a female bear and a deer but got neither of them.
Gibson informed me that the bear had two cubbs one of which was white and
other as black as jett. four indians remained with us this evening.
[Clark, May 25, 1806]
Sunday 25th May 1806 rained moderately the greater part of last night and
this morning untill 6 A.M. The child is not So well to day as yesterday. I
repeeted the Creem of tarter and the onion poltice. I caused a Swet to be
prepared for the Indn. in the Same hole which bratten had been Sweeten in
two days past Drewyer Labiech and Peter crusatt Set out hunting towards
the quarmash grounds if they can cross the Creek which is between this and
that place, which has been the bearrer as yet to our hunters. Jos. & R
Fields crossed the river to hunt on the opposit side. Goodrich went to the
2d village to purchase roots a fiew of which he precured. he informed us
that only 8 persons remained in the Village. the men were either hunting
on Lewis's river fishing, & the women out digging roots. he saw
Several fresh Salmon which the nativs informed him Came from Lewis's river
and were fat and fine. one of our men purchased a Bear Skin of the nativs
which was nearly of a Cream Coloured white. this Skin which was the Skin
of an animal of the middle Size of bears together with the defferent Sizes
colours &c. of those which have been killed by our hunters give me a
Stronger evidence of the various Coloured bear of this country being one
Species only, than any I have heretofore had. the poil of these bear were
infinately longer finer & thicker than the black bear their tallons
also longer & more blunt as worn by digging roots. the white redish
brown and bey Coloured bear I saw together on the Missouri; the bey &
Grizly have been Seen and killed together here. for these were the Colours
of those which Collins killed on the 14th inst. in short it is not common
to find two bear here of this Species presisely of the same colour, and if
we were to attempt to distinguish them by their colours and to denomonate
each colour a distinct Species we Should Soon find at least twenty. the
most Strikeing difference between this Species of bear and the Common
black bear are that the former are large and have longer tallens, hair,
and tushes, prey more on other animals, do not lie so long or so closely
in winter quarters, and will not Climb a tree, tho ever so hardly pursued.
the varigated bear I believe to be the Same here with those of the
Missouri but these are not so ferocious as those on the Missouri perhaps
from the Circumstance of their being compeled from the scercity of game in
this quarter to live more on roots and of course not so much in the habit
of Seizing and debowering liveing animals. the bear here is far from being
as passive as the common black bear, they have atacked and fought our
hunters already but not so feircely as those of the Missouri. There are
also some of the Common black bear in this neghbourhood tho no So Common
as the other Species.
we attempted to swet the sick indian but could not Suckceed. he was not
able either to Set up or be Supported in the place prepared for him. I
therefore deturmined to inform the Nativs that nothing but Sefere Swetts
would restore this disabled man, and even that doubtfull in his present
Situation. in the evening Shields & gibson returned haveing killed a
Sandhill Crane only. they Saw a female bear, & 2 Cubs & Several
deer. they Shot the bear and a deer both of which made their escape.
Gibson told me that the Cubs were of different Colours one jut black and
the other of a whiteish Colour-. 4 indians Continue with us, one return to
their village to daey
[Lewis, May 26, 1806]
Monday May 26th 1806. Had frequent showers in the course of the last
night. Collins, Shannon and Colter set out to hunt on the high lands some
distance up on the N. E. side of Collins's Creek. The Clyster given the
Child last evening operated very well. it is clear of fever this evening
and is much better, the swelling is considerably abated and appears as if
it would pass off without coming to a head. we still continue fresh
poltices of onions to the swolen part. we directed the indians in what
manner to treat the dieased Cheif, gave him a few dozes of flour of
sulpher and Creem of tartar & some portable soupe and directed them to
take him home. they seemed unwilling to comply with the latter part of the
injunction for they consumed the day and remained with us all night. at 1
P.M. Joseph and R. Feilds returned, accompanyed by Hohastillpilp several
other inferior Cheifs and some young men. These hunters informed us they
were unable to reach the grounds to which they had been directed in
consequence of the debth and rapidity of a large creek which falls in
about 10 Ms. above. they passed Commearp Creek at about 11/2 Ms. and a
second creek reather larger at 3 Ms. further. at the distance of 4 Ms. up
this last creek on their return they called at a village which our traders
have never yet visited, here they obtained a large quantity of bread and
roots of Cows on very moderate terms. we permitted Sergt. Pryor and four
men to pass the river tomorrow morning with a view to visit this village
we also directed Charbono York and LePage to set out early for the same
place and procure us some roots. our meat is again exhausted, we therefore
directed R. Fields to hunt the horse in the morning which the Indians have
given us to kill. one of our men saw a salmon in the river today. in the
afternoon we compleated our canoe and put her in the water; she appears to
answer very well and will carry about 12 persons. — the river still
rising fast and snows of the mountains visibly diminish
[Clark, May 26, 1806]
Monday 26th May 1806 Some Small Showers of rain last night, and continued
Cloudy this morning untill 7 A. M when it Cleared away and became fair and
worm. Collins Shannon & Colter set out to hunt on the high lands to
the N E of us towards Collins Creek. The Child Something better this
morning tho the Swelling yet continues. we Still apply the onion poltice.
I detected what Should be done for the disabled man, gave him a fiew doses
of Creem of tarter & flour Sulphur, and Some portable Supe and
directed that he Should be taken home & Swetted &c. at 1 P.M.
Joseph & R. Fields returned accompanied by Hoh hast ill pilt and an
Second Chief and 4 men Several young men also rode down on this Side. Jo
& R Fields informed us that they were at a village 4 Miles up the 2nd
Creek from this place on the opposit side above at which place on the
opposit side above at which place they precured roots on very reasonable
terms. they Could not proceed higher up to hunt as the creeks were too
high for them to Cross, &c. we gave permission to Serjt. Pryor and 4
men to cross the river and trade with nativs of the village the Field's
were at yesterday for roots &c. we also directed Shabono & york to
proceed on to the Same Village and precure Some roots for our Selves if
possible. one of our men Saw a Salmon in the river to day. and two others
eat of Salmon at the near Village which was brought from Lewis's river.
our Canoe finished and put into the water. it will Carry 12 men. the
riseing very fast and Snow appear to melt on the Mountains.
[Lewis, May 27, 1806]
Tuesday May 27th 1806. Early this morning we sent Reubin Fields in surch
of the horse which the indians had given us to kill. at 10 in the morning
he returned with the horse and we killed and butchered him; he was large
and in good order. Hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses we saw
runing at large in this neighbourhood belonged to himself and his people,
and whenever we were in want of meat he requested that we would kill any
of them we wished; this is a peice of liberallity which would do honour to
such as host of civilization; indeed I doubt whether there are not a great
number of our countrymen who would see us fast many days before their
compassion would excite them to a similar act of liberallity. Sergt. Pryor
and the party ordered to the indian Village set out early this morning. in
the evening he returned with Gibson and Sheilds. the others remained at
the village all night; they brought a good store of roots and bread. we
also sent Sergt. ordway and 2 men this morning over to Lewis's river for
salmon, which the indians inform us may be procured in abundance at that
place, and that it is but half a days ride, nearly south. — Drewyer,
Cruzatte, and Labuish returned at 4 P.M. with five deer which they had
killed at some distance up Collins's Creek on this side; that stream still
continues so high that they could not pass it. — Charbono's son is
much better today, tho the swelling on the side of his neck I beleive will
terminate in an ugly imposthume a little below the ear. the indians were
so anxious that the sick Cheif should be sweated under our inspection that
they requested we would make a second attept today; accordingly the hole
was somewhat enlarged and his father a very good looking old man, went
into the hole with him and sustained him in a proper position during the
operation; we could not make him sweat as copiously as we wished. after
the operation he complained of considerable pain, we gave him 30 drops of
laudanum which soon composed him and he rested very well. — this is at
least a strong mark of parental affection. they all appear extreemly
attentive to this sick man nor do they appear to relax in their asceduity
towards him notwithstand he has been sick and helpless upwards of three
years. the Chopunnish appear to be very attentive and kind to their aged
people and treat their women with more rispect than the nations of the
Missouri. — There is a speceis of Burrowing squirrel common in these
plains which in their habits somewhat resemble those of the missouri but
are a distinct speceis. this little animal measures one fot five and 1/2
inches from the nose to the extremity of the tail, of which the tail
occupys 21/4 inches only; in the girth it is 11 In. the body is
proportionably long, the neck and legs short; the ears are short, obtusely
pointed, and lie close to the head; the aperture of the ear is larger
proportionably than most animals which burrow. the eyes are of moderate
size, the puple black and iris of a dark sooty brown. the teeth are like
those of the squirrel as is it's whole contour. the whiskers are full,
long and black; it also has some long black hairs above the eyes. it has
five toes on each foot; the two inner toes of the fore feet are remarkably
short, and have short blont nails. the remaining toes on those feet are
long, black, slightly curved, and sharply pointed. the outer and inner
toes of the hind feet are not short yet they are by no means as long as
the three toes in the center of the foot which are remarkably long but the
nails are not as long as those of the fore feet tho of the same form and
colour. the hair of the tail tho of the same form and colour. the hair of
the tail tho thickly inserted on every part rispects the two sides only.
this gives it a flat appearance and a long ovol form. the tips of the hair
which form the outer edges of the tail are white. the base of the hairs
are either black or a fox red. the under disk of the tail is an iron grey,
the upper a redish brown. the lower part of the jaws, under part of the
neck, legs and feet from the body down and belley are of a light brick
red. the nose as high as the eyes is of a darker brick red. the upper part
of the head neck and body are of a curious brownish grey colour with a
cast of the brick red. the longer hair of these parts being of a redish
white colour at their extremities, fall together in such manner as to give
it the appearance of being speckled at a little distance. these animals
form large ascociations as those of the Missouri, occupying with their
burroughs one or sometimes 200 acres of land. the burrows are seperate and
are each occupyed perhaps by ten or 12 of those animals. there is a little
mound in front of the hole formed of the earth thrown out of the burrow
and frequently there are three or four distinct holes forming what I term
one burrow with their mouths arround the base of this little mound which
seems to be occupyed as a watch-tower in common by the inhabitants of
those several holes. these mounds are sometimes as much as 2 feet high and
4 feet in diameter, and are irregularly distributed over the tract they
occupy at the distance of from ten to thirty or 40 yds. when you approach
a burrow the squirrels, one or more, usually set erect on these mounds and
make a kind of shrill whistleing nois, something like tweet, tweet, tweet,
&c. they do not live on grass as those of the missouri but on roots.
one which I examined had in his mouth two small bulbs of a speceis of
grass, which resemble very much what is sometimes called the grassnut. the
intestins of those little animals are remarkably large for it's size. fur
short and very fine. — the grass in their villages is not cut down as
in those of the plains of the missouri. I preserved the skins of several
of these animals with the heads feet and legs entire. The Black woodpecker
which I have frequently mentioned and which is found in most parts of the
roky Mountains as well as the Western and S. W. mountains. I had never an
opportunity of examining untill a few days since when we killed and
preserved several of them. this bird is about the size of the lark
woodpecker of the turtle dove, tho it's wings are longer than either of
those birds. the beak is black, one inch long, reather wide at the base,
somewhat curved, and sharply pointed; the chaps are of equal length.
arround the base of the beak including the eye and a small part of the
throat is of a fine crimson red. the neck and as low as the croop in front
is of an iron grey. the belly and breast is a curious mixture of white and
blood reed which has much the appearance of having been artifically
painted or stained of that colour. the red reather predominates. the top
of the head back, sides, upper surface of the wings and tail are black,
with a gossey tint of green in a certain exposure to the light. the under
side of the wings and tail are of a sooty black. it has ten feathers in
the tail, sharply pointed, and those in the center reather longest, being
21/2 inches in length. the tongue is barbed, pointed, and of an elastic
cartelaginous substance. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris
of a dark yellowish brown. this bird in it's actions when flying resembles
the small redheaded woodpecke common to the Atlantic states; it's note
also somewhat resembles that bird. the pointed tail seems to assist it in
seting with more eas or retaining it its resting position against the
perpendicular side of a tree. the legs and feet are black and covered with
wide imbricated scales. it has four toes on each foot of which two are in
rear and two in front; the nails are much curved long and remarkably keen
or sharply pointed. it feeds on bugs worms and a variety of insects.
[Clark, May 27, 1806]
Tuesday 27th May 1806 A cloudy morning Serjt. Pryor and party Set out at 7
A.M. Serjt. Ordway and two men are ordered to cross this river and proceed
on through the plains to Lewis's and precure Some Salmon on that river,
and return tomorrow if possible he Set out at 8 A.M. we Sent Rub. Field in
Serch of the horse which the indians had given us to kill. at 10 A. M he
returned with the horse and he was killed and butchered; he was large and
in good order. hohastillpilp told us that most of the horses which we Saw
running in those plains in this neighbourhood at large belonged to himself
and his people, and whenever we were in want of meet, he requested that
would kill any of them we wished; this is a piece of liberallity which
would do honour to Such as host of civilization. Serjt. Pryor, Gibson
& Shields returned from the Village with a good Stock of roots and
bread. Shabono Lapage & Yourk whome we had Sent to purchase roots for
ourselves remained at the Village all night. Drewyer, Labiech & Crusat
return at 4 P.M. with 5 Deer which they had killed at Some distance up
Collin's Creek on this Side, that Stream Still continue So high that they
could not pass it.
Shabono's child is much better to day; tho the Swelling on the Side of his
neck I believe will termonate in an ugly imposthume a little below the
ear. The Indians were so anxious that the Sick Chief (who has lost the use
of his limbs) Should be Sweted under our inspection they requested me to
make a 2d attempt to day; accordingly the hole was enlargened and his
father a very good looking old man performed all the drugery &c. we
could not make him Swet as copously as we wished. being compelled to keep
him erect in the hole by means of Cords. after the oppiration he
complained of Considerable pain, I gave him 30 drops of Laudnom which Soon
composed him and he rested very well-. I observe the Strongest marks of
parental affection. they all appear extreemly attentive to this Sick man,
no do they appear to relax in their ascituity towards him not withstanding
he has been Sick and helpless for near 5 years. The Chopunnish appeare to
be very attentive & kind to their aged people and treat their women
with more respect than the nativs on the Missouri.
There is a Species of whistleing Squirel common in these plains which in
their habit Somewhat resembles those of the Missouri but are a distinct
Species. this little animale measures 1 foot 5 inches & a half from
the nose to the extremity of the tail, of which the tail occupies 21/4
inches only; in the girth it is 11 inches the body is perpotionably long,
the neck and legs Short; the ears are Short, obtusely pointed, and lye
close to the head; the aperture of the ear is larger proportionably than
most animals which burrow. the eyes are of Moderate Size, the puple black
and iris of a dark dusky brown. the teeth are like those of the Squirel as
is it's whole contour. the whiskers are full, long and black; it has also
Some long black hars above the eye-. it has five toes on each foot; the 2
iner toes of the fore feet are remarkably Short, and have Short blunt
nails. the remaining toes on these feet are long Slightly Curved, black
and Sharply pointed. the outer and inner toes of the hind feet are not
Short yet they are by no means as long as the three toes in the Center of
the foot which are remarkably long but the nails are not as long as those
of the fore feet tho of the Same form and colour. the bars of the tail tho
thickly inserted on every part respects the two Sides only. this givs it a
flat appearance and a long oval form. the tips of the hair which forms the
outer edges of the tail are white. the bace of the hair are either black
or a fox red. the under disk of the tail is an iron gray, the upper a
redish brown. the lower part of the jaws, under part of the neck, legs and
feet from the body down and belly are of a light brick red. the nose as
high as the eyes is of a darker brick red. the upper part of the head neck
and body are of a curious brownish gray colour with a cast of the brick
red. the longer hairs of these parts being of a redish white colour at
their extremities fall together in Such a Manner as to give it to the
appearance of being Spekled at a little distance. these animals form large
ascoations as those of the Missouri, occupying with their burroughs one or
Sometimes 200 acres of Land. the burrows are Seperate and are each
occupyed perhaps by 10 or 12 of those Animals. there is a little Mound in
front of the hole formed of the earth thrown out of the burrow and
frequently there are three or four distinct holes forming what I call one
burrow, around the base of the mound, which Seams to be occupied as a
watch tower in common by the inhabitents of those Several holes. these
Mounds are Sometimes as much as 2 feet high, and 4 feet in diameter, and
are irregularly distributed over the tract they occupy at the distance of
from ten to 30 or forty yards. When you approach a burrow the Squirels
one, or more, usially Set erect on these Mounds and make a kind of Shrill
whistleing nois, Something like tweet, tweet, tweet &c. they do not
live on grass as those of the Missouri but on roots. one which I examoned
had in his mouth two Small bulbs of a Species of grass, which resembles
very much what is Sometimes Called the Grass Nut. the intestins of these
little animals are remarkably large for it's Size; fur Short and very
fine. the grass in their village is not Cut down as in these of the plains
of the Missouri. I preserved the Skins of Several of these animals with
the heads feet and legs entire-.. The Black Wood pecker which is found in
most parts of the rocky Mountains as will as the Western and S W.
mountains, I had never an oppertunity of examineing, untill a fiew days
Since when we killed and preserved Several of them. this bird is about the
Size of the lark woodpecker or the turtle dove, tho it's wings are longer
than either of these birds. the beak is black, one inch long reather wide
at the base, Somewhat cirved, and Sharply pointed; the chaps are of equal
length. around the bace of the beak including the eye and a Small part of
the throat is of a crimson red. the neck and as low as the croop in front
is of an iron gray. the belly and breast is of a curious mixture of white
and blood red which has much the appearance of haveing been artifically
painted or Stained of that colour, the red reather predominates. the top
of the head, back, Sides, upper Surface of the wings and tail are black,
the under Side of the wings and tail are black. it has ten feathers in the
tail, Sharply pointed, and those in the center reather longest, being 21/2
inches in length. the tongue is barbed, pointed, and of an elastic
cartalaginous Substance. the eye is moderately large, puple black and iris
of a dark yellowish brown. this bird in it's actions when flying resemble
the Small redish woodpecker common to the altantic States; it's note also
Somewhat resembles that bird. the pointed tail Seems to assist it in
sitting with more ease or retaining it, in it's resting position against
the perpendicular Side of a tree. the legs and feet are black, and covered
with imbricated scales. it has four toes on each foot, of which two are in
rear and two in front; the nails are much curved long and remarkably Keen
or Sharply pointed. it feeds on bugs, worms and a variety of insects..
[Lewis, May 28, 1806]
Wednesday May 28th 1806. We sent Goodrich to the village of the broken arm
this morning he returned in the evening with some roots bread and a parsel
of goats-hair for making our saddle pads. Reubin and Joseph Feilds set out
this morning to hunt high up on a creek which discharges itself into this
river about 8 miles above us. at Noon Charbono, York and Lapage returned;
they had obtained four bags of the dryed roots of Cows and some bread. in
the evening Collins Shannon and Colter returned with eight deer. they had
fortunately discovered a ford on Collins's Creek where they were enabled
to pass it with their horses and had hunted at the quawmash ground where
we first met with the Chopunnish last fall. deer were very abundant they
informed us, but there were not many bear. The sick Cheif was much better
this morning he can use his hands and arms and seems much pleased with the
prospect of recovering, he says he feels much better than he has for a
great number of months. I sincerely wish these sweats may restore him; we
have consented that he should still remain with us and repeat these
sweats. he set up a great proportion of the day. — The Child is also
better, he is free of fever, the imposthume is not so large but seems to
be advancing to maturity. since my arrival here I have killed several
birds of the corvus genus of a kind found only in the rocky mountains and
their neighbourhood. I first met with this bird above the three forks of
the Missouri and saw them on the hights of the rocky Mountains but never
before had an opportunity of examining them closely. the small corvus
discribed at Fort Clatsop is a different speceis, tho untill now I had
taken it to be the same, this is much larger and has a loud squawling note
something like the mewing of a cat. the beak of this bird is 11/2 inches
long, is proportionably large, black and of the form which characterizes
this genus. the upper exceeds the under chap a little. the head and neck
are also proportionably large. the eye full and reather prominent, the
iris dark brown and puple black. it is about the size and somewhat the
form of the Jaybird tho reather rounder or more full in the body. the tail
is four and a half inches in length, composed of 12 feathers nearly of the
same length. the head neck and body of this bird are of a dove colour. the
wings are black except the extremities of six large fathers ocupying the
middle joint of the wing which are white. the under disk of the wing is
not of the shining or grossy black which marks it's upper surface. the two
feathers in the center of the tail are black as are the two adjacent
feathers for half their width the ballance are of a pure white. the feet
and legs are black and imbricated with wide scales. the nails are black
and remarkably long and sharp, also much curved. it has four toes on each
foot of which one is in the rear and three in front. the toes are long
particularly that in the rear. this bird feeds on the seed of the pine and
also on insects. it resides in the rocky mountains at all seasons of the
year, and in many parts is the only bird to be found. — our hunters
brought us a large hooting Owl which differs considerably from those of
the Atlantic States which are also common here. the plumage of this owl is
an uniform mixture of dark yellowish brown and white, in which the dark
brown predominates. it's colour may be properly termed a dark iron grey.
the plumage is very long and remarkably silky and soft. these have not the
long feathers on the head which give it the appearance of ears or horns.
the leathers of the head are long narrow and closely set, they rise
upwright nearly to the extremity and then are bent back sudonly as iff
curled. a kind of ruff of these feathers incircle the thoat. the head has
a flat appearance being broadest before and behind and is 1 foot 10 Is. in
circumference. incircling the eyes and extending from them like rays from
the center a tissue of open hairy long feathers are placed of a light grey
colour, these conceal the ears which are very large and are placed close
to the eyes behind and extending below them. these feathers meet over the
beak which they nearly conceal and form the face of the owl. they eyes are
remarkably large and prominant, the iris of a pale goald colour and iris
circular and of a deep sea green. the beak is short and wide at it's base.
the upper chap is much curved at the extremity and comes down over and in
front of the under chap. this bird is about the size of the largest
hooting Owl. the tail is composed of eleven feathers, of which those in
the center are reather the longest. it is booted to the extremity of the
toes, of which it has four on each foot, one in the rear one on the outer
side and two in front. the toes are short particularly that in rear, but
are all armed with long keen curved nails of a dark brown colour. the beak
is white and nostrils circular large and unconnected. the habits and the
note of this owl is much that of the common large hooting owl.
[Clark, May 28, 1806]
Wednesday May 28th 1806 We sent Goodrich to the Village of the broken Arm
for hair to Stuff Saddle pads. Jo. & R. Fields Set out this morning to
hunt towards the mountains. at noon Shabono York and Lapage returned. they
had obtained 4 bags of the dried roots of Cowse and Some bread. in the
evening Collins, Shannon & Cotter returned with 8 deer. they
fortunately discovered a ford on Collin's Creek where they were enable to
pass it with there horses and had hunted at the quawmash Grounds where we
first met with the Chopunnish last fall. deer were verry abundant they
informed us, but there was not many bear. The Sick Chief is much better
this morning he can use his hands and arms and Seems much pleased with the
prospects of recovering, he Says he feels much better than he has done for
a great Number of Months. I Sincerly wish that the Swetts may restore him.
I have Consented to repeet the Sweets.
The Country along the rocky mountains for Several hundred Miles in length
and about 50 in width is leavel extremely fertile and in many parts
Covered with a tall and opult. growth of the long leafed pine. near the
Watercourses the hills are lofty tho are covered with a good Soil and not
remarkably Stoney and possess more timber than the leavel country. the
bottom lands on the Water courses are reather narrow and confined tho
fertile and Seldom inundated. this Country would form an extensive
Settlement; the Climate appears quit as mild as that of a Similar latitude
on the Atlantic Coast; & it cannot be otherwise than healthy; it
possesses a fine dry pure air. the grass and maney plants are now upwards
of Knee high. I have no doubt that this tract of Country if Cultivated
would produce in great abundance every article esentially necessary to the
comfort and Subsistence of civillized man. to it's present inhabitents
nature Seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for she has distributed a
great variety of esculent plants over the face of the Country which
furnish them a plentiful Store of provisions; those are acquired but
little toil; and when prepared after the method of the nativs afford not
only a nutricious but an agreeable food. among other roots those Called by
them the Quawmash and Cows are esteemd. the most agreeable and valuable as
they are also the most abundant in those high plains.
The Cows is a knobbed root of an erregularly rounded form not unlike the
Gensang in form and Consistence; this root they Collect, rub off a thin
black rhind which Covers it and pounding it exposes it in cakes to the
Sun. these Cakes are about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in wedth,
when dry they either eat this bread alone without any further preperation,
or boil it and make a thick Musilage; the latter is most common & much
the most agreeable. the flower of this root is not very unlike the
gensang-. this root they Collect as early as the Snow disappears in the
Spring, and Continues to collect it untill the Quawmash Supplies it's
place which happins about the Middle of June. the quawmash is also
Collected for a fiew weeks after it first makes it's appearance in the
Spring, but when the scape appears it is no longer fit for use untill the
Seed are ripe which happens about the time just mentioned. and then the
Cows declines. The Cows is also frequently dried in the Sun and pounded
afterwards and used in thickening Supe and Makeing Mush.
The Chopunnish held a Council in the morning of the 12th among themselves
in respect to the Subject on which we had Spoken to them the day before,
the result as we learnt was favourable, they placed Confidence in the
information they had recived and resolved to pursue our advise. after this
Council was over the principal Chief or the broken arm, took the flour of
the roots of Cows and thickened the Soup in the Kitiles and baskets of all
his people, this being ended he made a harangue the purpote of which was
makeing known the deliberations of their councils and impressing the
necessity of unanimity among them, and a strict attention to the
resolution which had been agreed on in Councell; he concluded by enviting
all such men as had resolved to abide by the decree of the councill to
come and eat, and requested Such as would not be So bound to Show
themselves by not partakeing of the feast. I was told by one of our men
who was present in the house, that there was not a decenting voice on this
great National question, but all Swallowed their objections if any they
had, very cheerfully with their mush-. dureing the time of this loud
animated harangue of the Chief the women Cryed wrung their hands, tore
their hair and appeared to be in the utmost distress. after this cerimoney
was over, the Chiefs and considerate men came in a body to where we were
Seated at a little distance from our tent, and two young men at the
instance of the nation presented Capt L. and myself each a fine horse. and
informed us that they had listened with attentioned to what we had Said
and were resolved to pursue our Counsels &c. — That as we had not
seen the Black foot Indians and the Minetarries of Fort dePrarie they did
not think it safe to venter over to the plains of the Missouri, where they
would fondly go provided those nations would not kill them. that when we
had established a tradeing house on the Missouri as we had promised they
would Come over and trade for arms Amunition &c. and live about us.
that it would give them much pleasure to be at peace with those nations
altho they had Shed much of their blood-. They Said that they were pore
but their hearts were good. we might be assured of their sincerety. Some
of their brave men would go over with us to the Missouri and bring them
the news as we wished, and if we Could make a peace between them and their
enimies on the other Side of the mountains their nation would go over to
the Missouri in the latter end of the Summer. on the Subject of one of
their Chiefs accompanying us to the land of the White men they Could not
yet determine, but that they would let us know before we left them. that
the Snow was yet so deep in the Mountains that if we attempted to pass, we
would Certainly perish, and advised us to remain untill after the next
full Moon when the Snow would disappear on the South hill sides and we
would find grass for our horses.. Shabonos Child is better this day that
he was yesterday. he is free from fever. the imposthume is not So large
but Seems to be advanceing to meturity-.
[Lewis, May 29, 1806]
Thursday May 29th 1806. No movement of the party today worthy of notice.
we have once more a good stock of meat and roots. Bratton is recovering
his strength very fast; the Child and the Indian Cheif are also on the
recovery. the cheif has much more uce of his hands and arms. he washed his
face himself today which he has been unable to do previously for more than
twelvemonths. we would have repeated the sweat today had not been cloudy
and frequently raining. a speceis of Lizzard called by the French engages
prarie buffaloe are native of these plains as well as of those of the
Missouri. I have called them the horned Lizzard. they are about the size
and a good deel the figure of the common black lizzard. but their bellies
are broader, the tail shorter and their action much slower; they crawl
much like the toad. they are of brown colour with yellowish and
yellowishbrown spots. it is covered with minute scales intermixed with
little horny prosesses like blont prickles on the upper surface of the
body. the belley and throat is more like the frog and are of a light
yelowish brown colour. arround the edge of the belley is regularly set
with little horney projections which give to those edges a serrate figure
the eye is small and of a dark colour. above and behind the eyes there are
several projections of the bone which being armed at their extremities
with a firm black substance has the appearance of horns sprouting out from
the head. this part has induced me to distinguish it by the apppellation
of the horned Lizzard. I cannot conceive how the engages ever assimilated
this animal with the buffaloe for there is not greater analogy than
between the horse and the frog. this animal is found in greatest numbers
in the sandy open parts of the plains, and appear in great abundance after
a shower of rain; they are sometimes found basking in the sunshine but
conceal themselves in little holes in the earth much the greater
preportion of their time. they are numerous about the falls of the
Missouri and in the plains through which we past lately above the
Wallahwallahs. — The Choke Cherry has been in blume since the 20th
inst. it is a simple branching ascending stem. the cortex smooth and of a
dark brown with a redish cast. the leaf is scattered petiolate oval accute
at its apex finely serrate smooth and of an ordinary green. from 11/2 to 3
inches in length and 13/4 to 2 in width. the peduncles are common,
cilindric, and from 4 to 5 inches in length and are inserted promiscuously
on the twigs of the preceeding years growth. on the lower portion of the
common peduncle are frequently from 3 to 4 small leaves being the same in
form as those last discribed. other peduncles 1/4 of an inch in length are
thickly scattered and inserted on all sides of the common peduncle at
wright angles with it each elivating a single flower, which has five
obtuse short patent white petals with short claws inserted on the upper
edge of the calyx. the calyx is a perianth including both stamens and
germ, one leafed fine cleft entire simiglobular, infrior, deciduous. the
stamens are upwards of twenty and are seated on the margin of the flower
cup or what I have called the perianth. the filaments are unequal in
length subulate inflected and superior membranous. the anthers are equal
in number with the filaments, they are very short oblong & flat, naked
and situated at the extremity of the filaments, is of a yelow colour as is
also the pollen. one pistillum. the germen is ovate, smooth, superior,
sessile, very small; the Style is very short, simple, erect, on the top of
the germen, deciduous. the stigma is simple, flat very short.
[Clark, May 29, 1806]
Thursday 29th of May 1806 No movement of the party to day worthy of
notice. we have once more a good Stock of Meat and roots. Bratten is
recovering his Strength very fast. the Child, and the Indian Cheaf are
also on the recovery. the Chief has much more use of his hands and arms.
he washed his face himself today. Which he has not been able to do
previously for more than twelve months past. I would have repeeted the
Sweat to day had it not been Cloudy and frequently raining.. Sence my
arrival here I have killed Several birds of the Corvus genus of a kind
found only in the rocky mountains and their neighbourhood. I first met
with bird on Jeffersons River. and Saw them on the hights of the rocky
mountains. but never before had an oppertunity of examineing them Closely.
the Small Corvus discribed at Fort Clatsop is a different Species, tho
untill now I had taken it to be the Same, this is much larger and has a
loud squaling note something like the newing of a Cat. the beak of this
bird is 11/2 inches long, is proportionably large, black and of the form
which characterize this genus. the upper exeeds the under Chap a little.
the head and neck are also propotionably large, the eyes full and reather
prominant, the iris dark brown and purple black. it is about the Size and
Some what the form of the jay bird, tho reather rounder and more full in
the body. the tail is four and a half inches in length, composed of 12
feathers nearly of the Same length. the head, neck and body of this bird
is of a dove Colour. the wings are black except the extremities of Six
large feathers occupying the middle joint of the wings which are White.
the under disk of the wings are not of the shineing or glossy black which
mark it's upper Surface. the two feathers in the Center of the tail are
black as are the two adjacent feathers for half their wedth, the ballance
are of a pure White. the feet and legs are black, and imbricated with wide
Scales, the nails are black and remarkably long and Sharp, also much
Curved, it has four toes on each foot of which one is in the rear and 3 in
front. the toes are long particular that in the rear. this bird feeds on
the Seeds of the pine and also on insects. it resides in the rocky
Mountains at all Seasons of the year, and in many parts is the only bird
to be found. a Species of Lizzard Called by the French engages, Prarie
buffaloe are nativs of these plains as well as those of the Missouri. I
have Called them the horned Lizzard. they are about the Size and a good
deel the figure of the Common black lizzard. but their bellies are
broader, the tail Shorter and their action much Slower; they Crawl much
like the toad. they are of a brown Colour with yellowish and yellowish
brown Spots. it is covered with minute scales intermixed with little
horney like blunt prickkles on the upper Surface of the body. the belly
and throat is more like the frog and are of a light yellowish brown
Colour. around the edge of the belly is regularly Set with little horney
prejections which give to those edges a Serrate figure, the eye is Small
and of a dark colour. above and behind the eyes there are Several
Projections of the bone which being armed at their extremities with a firm
black Substance has the appearance of horns Sprouting out from the head.
this part has induced me to distinguish it by the appellation of the
Horned Lizard. I cannot conceive how the engagees ever assimilated this
animal withe Buffalow for there is not grater anology than between the
Horse and the frog. this Animal is found in greatest numbers in the Sandy
open parts of the Plains, and appear in great abundance after a rain; they
are Sometimes found basking in the Sunshine but conceal themselves in
little holes under the tufts of grass or herbs much the greater proportion
of their time. they are noumerous about the Falls of Missouri, and in the
plains through which we passed lately above the Falls of Columbia
The Choke Cherry has been in blume Since the 20th inst. it is a Simple
branching ascending Stem. the Cortex Smooth and of a dark brown with a
redish Cast. the leaf is scattered petiolate oval accute at it's apex
finely Serated Smooth and of an ordinary green, from 21/2 to 3 inches in
length and from 11/4 to 2 in width. the Peduncles cilindric and Common
from 4 to 5 inches in length and are inserted promiscuisly on the twigs of
the proceeding years growth. on the lower portion of the Common peduncle
are frequently from 3 to 4 Small leaves, being the same in form as those
last discribed. other peduncles 1/4 of an inch in length are Scattered and
thickly inserted on all sides of the Common peduncle at right-angles with
it, each elivateing a Single flower, which has five obtuse Short patent
white petals with Short claws incerted on the upper edge of the calyx. the
Calyx is a perianth including both Stemes & germ, one leafed five
cleft entire, Semi globular. the Stamons are upwards of twenty and are
Seated on the Margin of the flower Cup or what I have Called the perianth.
the filaments are unequal in length Subulate inflected and Superior
membranous. the anthers are equal in number with the filaments, they are
very Short oblong and flat, naked and Situated at the extremity of the
filaments. is of a yellowish colour asis also the pollen. one pistillum.
the germin is ovate, Smooth, Superior, sessile, very Small; the Style is
very Short, Simple, erect, on the top of the germen deciduous. the Stigma
is Simple, flat very Short. This Shrub rises to the hight of from 6 to 8
feet generally but Sometimes rich Situations much higher. it is not
confined to any particular Situation Capt. L-s met with a singular plant
in blume of which we preserved a Specimene. it grows on the Steep fertile
hill Sides near this place the radix is fibrous, not much branched,
annual, woody, white and nearly Smooth. the Stem is Simple branching
ascending 21/2 feet high. Celindric, villose and of a pale red Colour. the
branches are but fiew and those near it's upper extremity. the extremities
of the branches are flexable and are bent down near their extremities with
the weight of the flowers. the leaf is sessile, scattered thinly, nearly
lineor tho Somewhat widest in the middle, two inches in length, absolutely
entire, villose, obtusely pointed and of an Ordinary green. above each
leaf a Small Short branch protrudes, Supporting a tissue of four or five
Small leaves of the Same appearance of those discribed. a leaf is placed
under neath each branch and each flower. the Calyx is one flowered Spatha.
the corolla Superior, consists of four pale perple petals which are
tripartite, the Centeral lobe largest and all terminate obtusely; they are
inserted with a long and narrow claw on the top of the germ, are long,
Smooth and deciduous. there are two distinct Sets of Stamens the first or
principal Consists of four, the filaments which are capillary, erect,
inserted on the top of the germ alternately with the petals, equal short,
membranus; the anthers are also four each being elivated with it's
fillaments; they are reather flat, erect sessile, cohering to the base,
membranous, longitudinally furrowed, twise as long as the fillament naked,
and of a pale purple colour, the Second Set of Stamens are very minute,
are also four and placed within and opposit to the petals, those are
Scercely precptable while the first are large & Conspicious, the
fillaments are capillary equal, very Short white and Smooth. the anthers
are four, oblong, beaked, erect Cohering at the base, membanous, Shorter
than the fillaments, White naked and appear not to form pollen, there is
one pistillum; the germ of which is also one, celindric, villous,
inferior, Sessile, as long as the first Stamuns, and grooved. the Single
Style and Stigma form a perfect mono petallous corolla only with this
difference that the Style which elivates the Stigma or limb is not a tube
but solid tho it's outer appearance is that of a tube of a Monopetallous
corolla swelling as it ascends and gliding in such manner into the limb
that it Cannot be Said where the Style ends or the Stigma begins, jointly
they are as long as the Gorilla, while the limb is four cleft, Sauser
Shaped, and the margin of the lobes entire and rounded. this has the
appearance of a monopetallous flower growing from the Center of the four
petalled corollar which is rendered more conspicuous in consequence of the
first being white and the latter of a pale purple. I regret very much that
the Seed of this plant are not ripe as yet and it is probable will not be
so dureing our residence in this neighbourhood-. our Horses maney of them
have become So wild that we Cannot take them without the assistance of the
indians who are extreemly dextrous in throwing a Rope and takeing them
with a noose about the neck; as we frequently want the use of our horses
when we cannot get the use of the indians to take them, we had a Strong
pound formed to day in order to take them at pleasure-
[Lewis, May 30, 1806]
Friday May 30th 1806. Lapage and Charbono set out to the indian vilages
early this morning for the purpose of trading with them for roots; Sergt.
Gass was sent this morning to obtain some goats hair to stuff the padds of
our saddles. he ascended the river on this side and being unable to pass
the river opposite to the village he wished to visit, returned in the
evening unsuccessfull. Shannon and Collins were permitted to pass the
river in order to trade with the natives and lay in a store of roots and
bread for themselves with their proportion of the merchandize as the
others had done; in landing on the opposite shore the canoe was driven
broad side with the full forse of a very strong current against some
standing trees and instantly filled with water and sunk. Potts who was
with them is an indifferent swimer, it was with much difficulty he made
the land. they lost three blankets a blanket coat and their pittance of
merchandize. in our bear state of clootheing this was a serious loss. I
sent Sergt. Pryor and a party over with the indian canoe in order to raise
and secure ours but the debth of the water and the strength of the current
baffled every effort. I fear that we have also lost our canoe. all our
invalides are on the recovery. we gave the sick Cheif a severe sweat
today, shortly after which he could move one of his legs and thyes and
work his toes pretty well, the other leg he can move a little; his fingers
and arms seem to be almost entirely restored. he seems highly delighted
with his recovery. I begin to entertain strong hope of his restoration by
these sweats. in the evening Joseph Feild returned in surch of his horses
which had left them last evening and returned to camp. Feilds informed us
that himself and his brother whom he had left at their camp 6 ms. distant
on Collin's creek, had killed 3 deer. The reptiles which I have observed
in this quarter are the Rattlesnake of the speceis discribed on the
Missouri, they are abundant in every part of the country and are the only
poisonous snake which we have yet met with since we left St. Louis. the 2
speceis of snakes of an inosent kind already discribed. the common black
lizzard, the horned lizzard, a smal green tree frog, the smal frog which
is common to our country which sings in the spring of the year, a large
speceis of frog which resorts the water considerably larger than our bull
frog, it's shape seems to be a medium between the delicate and lengthy
form of our bull frog and that of our land frog or toad as they are
sometimes called in the U States. like the latter their bodies are covered
with little pustles or lumps, elivated above the ordinary surface of the
body; I never heard them make any sound or nois. the mockerson snake or
coperhead, a number of vipers a variety of lizzards, the toad bullfrog
&c common to the U States are not to be found in this country. most of
the insects common to the U States are found here. the butterflies, common
house and blowing flies, the horse flies, except the goald coloured ear
fly, tho in stead of this fly we have a brown coloured fly about the same
size which attatches itself to that part of the horse and is equally as
troublesome. the silkworm is also found here. a great variety of beatles
common to the Atlantic states are found here likewise. except from this
order the large cow beatle and the black beatle usually alled the tumble
bug which are not found here. the hornet, the wasp and yellow wasp or
yellow jacket as they are frequently called are not met with in this
quarter. there is an insect which much resembles the latter only a vast
deel larger which are very numerous particularly in the rocky mountains on
the waters of the Columbia; these build in the ground where they form a
nest like the hornet with an outer covering to the comb in which they
deposit their eggs and raise their young. the sheets of this comb are
attatched to each other as those of the hornets are. their wings are four
of a dark brown colour. the head is black, the body and abdomen are yellow
incircled with transverse rings of black, they are ferce and sting very
severely, we found them troublesome in frightening our horses as we passed
those mountains. the honey bee is not found here. the bumble bee is. one
of the men brought me today some onions from the high plain of a different
speceis from those near the borders of the river as they are also from the
shive or small onion noticed below the falls of the Columbia. these onions
were as large as a nutmeg, they generally grow double or two bulbs
connected by the same tissue of radicles; each bulb has two long liniar
flat solid leaves. the peduncle is solid celindric and crowned with an
umbal of from 20 to 30 flowers. this onion is exceedingly crisp and
delicately flavoured indeed I think more sweet and less strong than any I
ever taisted. it is not yet perfectly in blow, the parts of the flower are
not distinct.
[Clark, May 30, 1806]
Friday May 30th 1806. Lapage and Shabono Set out early this morning to the
Indian Village in order to trade with them for roots; Serjt. Gass was Sent
this morning to obtain Some goats hair to Stuf the pads of our Saddles; he
assended the river on this Side and being unable to pass the river to the
village he wished to visit returned in the evening unsucksessfull. Shannon
and Collins were permited to pass the river in order to trade with the
nativs and lay in a Store of roots and bread for themselves with their
proportion of the merchendize as others had done; on landing on the
opposit Shore the Canoe was driven broad Side with the full force of a
very Strong Current against Some Standing trees and instantly filled with
water and Sunk. Potts who was with them is an indifferent Swimer, it was
with dificuelty he made the land. they lost three blankets and a Blanket
Cappo and their pittance of Merchindize. in our bear State of Clothing
this was a Serious loss. I Sent Serjt. Pryor and a party over in the
Indian Canoe in order to raise and Secure ours but the debth of the water
and the Strength of the Current baffled every effort. I fear that we have
also lost our Canoe.all our involedes are on the recovery. we gave the
Sick Chief a Severe Swet to day, Shortly after which he could move one of
his legs and thy's and work his toes pritty well, the other leg he can
move a little; his fingers and arms Seem to be almost entirely restored.
he Seems highly delighted with his recovery. I begin to entertain Strong
hope of his recovering by these Sweats in the evening Joseph Fields
returned in serch of his horses which had left them last evening and
returned to Camp. Field informed us that himself and his brother whome he
had left at their Camp 6 ms. distant on Collins Creek had killed 3 Deer. — The
reptiles which I have observed in this quarter are the Rattle Snake of the
Species discribed on the Missouri, they are abundant in every part of the
Country and are the only poisonous Snake which we have met with Since we
left St. Louis. the Second Species of Snake of an inosent kind already
discribd. the Common black Lizzard, the horned Lizzard, a small green
tree-frog; the Same frog which is common to our Country which Sings in the
Spring of the year. a large Species of frog which resorts the water
considerably larger than our bull-frog, it's Shape Seems to be a Medium
between the delicate and lengthy form of our bullfrogs and that of our
land frog or toad as they are Sometimes called in the United States. like
the latter their bodies are covered with little pustles or lumps, elevated
above the ordinary Surface of the body; I never heard them make any Sound
or noise, the Mockerson Snake or Copper head, a number of vipers, a
variety of Lizzards, the toad bullfrog &c. common to the U. States are
not to be found in this Country. Most of the insects common to the U
States are found here. the butterfly, common house and blowing flies, the
horse flies, except the gold coloured ear fly. tho in Stead of this fly we
have a brown coloured fly about the same Size which attatches itself to
that part of the horse and is equally as troublesom. the Silk worm is also
found here. a great variety of beatles common to the atlantic States are
Seen here likewise. except from this order the large Cow beatle and the
black beatle usially termed tumble bug which are not found here. the
hornet, the Wasp and yellow Wasp or yellow jacket as they are frequently
Called are not met with in this quarter. there is an insect which much
resembles the latter only a vast deel larger which are very noumerous
particular in the Rocky mountains on the waters of the Columbia, those
build in the ground where they form a nest like the hornet with an outer
covering to the Comb in which they deposit their eggs and raise their
young. the Sheets of this Comb are attatched to each other as those of the
hornets are. their wings are four of a dark brown Colour — the head is
black, the body and abdomin are yellow insercled with transverce rings of
black, they are firce and Sting very Severely; we found them troublesom in
frightening our horses as we passed through mountains. the honey bee is
not found here. the bumblebee is. one of the men brought me to day Some
Onions from the high plains of a different Species from those near the
borders of the river as they are also from the Shive or Small Onion
noticed below the Falls of Columbia. these Onions were as large as an
nutmeg, they generally grow double or two bulbs connected by the same
tissue of radicles; each bulb has two long liner flat solid leaves. the
pedencle is solid celindric and cround with an umble of from 20 to 30
flowers. this Onion is exceedingly crisp and delicately flavoured indeed.
I think more Sweet and less strong than any I ever tasted, it is not yet
perfectly in blume, the parts of the flower are not distinct
[Lewis, May 31, 1806]
Saturday May 31st 1806. Goodrich and Willard visited the indian Villages
this morning and returned in the evening. Willard brought with him the
dressed skin of a bear which he had purchased for Capt. C. this skin was
an uniform pale redish brown colour, the indians informed us that it was
not the Hoh-host or white bear, that it was the Yack-kah. this distinction
of the indians induced us to make further enquiry relative to their
opinons of the several speceis of bear in this country. we produced the
several skins of the bear which we had killed at this place and one very
nearly white which I had purchased. The white, the deep and plale red
grizzle, the dark bron grizzle, and all those which had the extremities of
the hair of a white or frosty colour without regard to the colour of the
ground of the poil, they designated Hoh-host and assured us that they were
the same with the white bear, that they ascosiated together, were very
vicisious, never climbed the trees, and had much longer nails than the
others. the black skins, those which were black with a number of intire
white hairs intermixed, the black with a white breast, the uniform bey,
brown and light redish brown, they designated the Yack-kah;-said that they
climbed the trees, had short nails and were not vicious, that they could
pursue them and kill them with safety, they also affirmed that they were
much smaller than the white bear. I am disposed to adopt the Indian
distinction with rispect to these bear and consider them two distinct
speceis. the white and the grizzly of this neighbourhood are the same of
those found on the upper portion of the Missouri where the other speceis
are not, and that the uniform redish brown black &c of this
neighbourhood are a speceis distinct from our black bear and from the
black bear of the Pacific coast which I believe to be the same with those
of the Atlantic coast, and that the common black bear do not exist here. I
had previously observed that the claws of some of the bear which we had
killed here had much shorter tallons than the variagated or white bear
usually have but supposed that they had woarn them out by scratching up
roots, and these were those which the indians called Yak-kah. on enquiry I
found also that a cub of an uniform redish brown colour, pup to a female
black bear intermixed with entire white hairs had climbed a tree. I think
this a distinct speceis from the common black bear, because we never find
the latter of any other colour than an uniform black, and also that the
poil of this bear is much finer thicker and longer with a greater
proportion of fur mixed with the hair, in other ispects they are much the
same. — This evening Joseph and R. Feilds returned with the three deer
which they had killed. The Indians brought us another of our origional
Stock of horses; there are only two absent now of those horses, and these
the indians inform us that our shoshone guide rode back when he returned.
we have sixty five horses at this time, most of them in excellent order
and fine strong active horses.
The Indians pursued a mule deer to the river opposite to our camp this
evening; the deer swam over and one of our hunters killed it. there being
a large party of indians assembled on this occasion on the opposite side,
Hohast-ill-pilp desired them to raise our canoe which was sunk on that
side of the river yesterday; they made the attempt but were unable to
effect it.
[Clark, May 31, 1806]
Saturday May 31st 1806 Goodrich and Willard visited the indian Village
this morning and returned in the evening Willard brought with him the
dressed Skin of a bear which he had purchased for me. this Skin was of a
uniform pale redish brown colour, the indians inform us that it was not
the Hoh-host or white bear, that it was the Yack-kah this distinction of
the indians induced us to make further enquiry relitive to their oppinions
of the defferent Species of bear in this country. We produced the Several
Skins of the bear which our hunters had killed at this place and one very
nearly white which Capt Lewis had purchased. the White, the deep and pale
red grizzle, the dark brown grizzle, and all those that had the
extremities of the hair of a White or frosty Colour without reguard to the
Colour of the ground of the poil, they disignated Hoh-host and assured us
that they were the Same with the White bear, that they associated
together, were very vicisious, never climb the trees, and had much longer
nails than the others. The black skins, those which were black with a
number of entire white hairs intermixed, the black with a White breast,
the uniform bey, brown and light redish brown, they disignated the
Yack-kah-; Said that they Climb the trees had Short nails and were not
viscisious, that they could prosue them and kill them in Safty, they also
affirmed that they were much Smaller than the white bear. I am disposed to
adopt the Indians distinction with respect to these bear and consider them
two distinct Species. the White and the Grizzly of this neighbourhood are
the Same as those found on the upper part of the Missouri where the other
Species are not, and that the uniform redish brown black &c. of this
neighbourhood are a Species distinct from both Species of our black bear
and from the black bear of the Pacific Coast which I believe to be the
Same with those of the Atlantic Coast, and that the Common black bear do
not exist here. I had previously observed that the claws of Some of the
bear which we had killed here had much Shorter tallons than the varigated
or White bear usially have but Supposed that they had worn them out by
scratching out roots, and these were those which the indians call Yahkah.
on enquiry I found also that a Cub of a uniform redish brown Colour pup to
a female black bear intermixed with entire white hairs, had climbed a
tree. I think this a distinct Species from the common black bear becaus we
never find the latter of any other Colour than a uniform black, and also
that the poil of this bear is much finer thicker and longer with a greater
proportion of fur mixed with the hair, in other respects they are much the
same
This evening, Joseph and Reuben Fields returned with the three deer they
had killed. The indians brought us another of our Original Stock of
Horses; there are only two Absent now of these horses, and these the
indians inform us that our Sho-Sho-ne guide rode back when he returned. we
have Sixty five horses at this time, most of them in excellent order and
fine Strong active horses
The Indians pursued a Mule deer to the river opposit to our Camp this
evening; the deer Swam over and one of our hunters killed it. there being
a large party of indians assembled on this Occasion on the opposit Side
with Tin-nach-e-moo-tolt they attempted to rais our Canoe which was Sunk
on that Side of the river yesterday; they made the attempt but were unable
to effect it-.
[Lewis, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806. Yesterday evening Charbono an LaPage returned,
having made a broken voyage. they ascended the river on this side nearly
opposite to a village eight miles above us, here their led horse which had
on him their merchandize, feell into the river from the side of a steep
clift and swam over; they saw an indian on the opposite side whom they
prevailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the river
the horse lost a dressed Elkskin of LaPages and several small articles,
& their paint was destroyed by the water. here they remained and dryed
their articles the evening of the 30th Ult. the indians at the village
learning their errand and not having a canoe, made an attempt esterday
morning to pass the river to them on a raft with a parsel of roots and
bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft struck a rock, upset
and lost thir cargo; the river having fallen heir to both merchandize and
roots, our traders returned with empty bags. This morning Drewyer
accompanyed by Hohastillpilp set out in surch of two tomahawks of ours
which we have understood were in the possession of certain indians
residing at a distance in the plains on the South side of the Kooskoske;
the one is a tomahawk which Capt. C. left at our camp on Musquetoe Creek
and the other was stolen from us while we lay at the forks of this and the
Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard set out this morning on a
hunting excurtion towards the quamash grounds beyond Collins's Creek. we
begin to feel some anxiety with rispect to Sergt. Ordway and party who
were sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we have received no inteligence of
them since they set out. we desired Drewyer to make some enquiry after the
Twisted hair; the old man has not been as good as his word with rispect to
encamping near us, and we fear we shall be at a loss to procure guides to
conduct us by the different routs we wish to pursue from Traveller's rest
to the waters of the Missouri. — I met with a singular plant today in
blume of which I preserved a specemine; it grows on the steep sides of the
fertile hills near this place, the radix is fibrous, not much branched,
annual, woody, white and nearly smooth. the stem is simple branching
ascending, 21/2 feet high celindric, villose and of a pale red colour. the
branches are but few and those near it's upper extremity. the extremities
of the branches are flexable and are bent down near their extremities with
the weight of the flowers. the leaf is sissile, scattered thinly, nearly
linear tho somewhat widest in the middle, two inches in length, absolutely
entire, villose, obtusely pointed and of an ordinary green. above each
leaf a small short branch protrudes, supporting a tissue of four or five
smaller leaves of the same appearance with those discribed. a leaf is
placed underneath eah branch, and each flower. the calyx is a one flowered
spathe. the corolla superior consists of four pale perple petals which are
tripartite, the central lobe largest and all terminate obtusely; they are
inserted with a long and narrow claw on the top of the germ, are long,
smooth, & deciduous. there are two distinct sets of stamens the 1st or
principal consist of four, the filaments of which are capillary, erect,
inserted on the top of the germ alternately with the petals, equal short,
membranous; the anthers are also four each being elivated with it's
fillament, they are linear and reather flat, erect sessile, cohering at
the base, membranous, longitudinally furrowed, twise as long as the
fillament naked, and of a pale perple colour. the second set of stamens
are very minute are also four and placed within and opposite to the
petals, these are scarcely persceptable while the 1st are large and
conspicuous; the filaments are capillary equal, very short, white and
smooth. the anthers are four, oblong, beaked, erect, cohering at the base,
membranous, shorter than the fillaments, white naked and appear not to
form pollen. there is one pistillum; the germ of which is also one,
cilindric, villous, inferior, sessile, as long as the 1st stamens, and
marked with 8 longitudinal furrows. the single style and stigma form a
perfict monapetallous corolla only with this difference, that the style
which elivates the stigma or limb is not a tube but solid tho it's outer
appearance is that of the tube of a monopetallous corolla swelling as it
ascends and gliding in such manner into the limb that it cannot be said
where the style ends, or the stigma begins; jointly they are as long as
the corolla, white, the limb is four cleft, sauser shaped, and the margins
of the lobes entire and rounded. this has the appearance of a
monopetallous flower growing from the center of a four petalled corollar,
which is rendered more conspicuous in consequence of the 1st being white
and the latter of a pale perple. I regret very much that the seed of this
plant are not yet ripe and it is proble will not be so during my residence
in this neighbourhood.
[Clark, June 1, 1806]
Sunday June 1st 1806. Late last evening Shabono & Lapage returnd.
haveing made a broken voyage. they assended the river on this Side nearly
opposit to the Village Eight miles above us, here their led horse who had
on him their Stock of Merchindize fell into the river from the Side of a
Steep Clift and swam over, they Saw an indian on the opposit side whome
they provailed on to drive their horse back again to them; in swiming the
horse lost a dressed Elk skin of LaPages and Several small articles, and
their paint was distroyed by the water. here they remained and dryed their
articles the evening of the 30th ulto. the indians at the village learned
their errand and not haveing a canoe, made an attempt Yesterday morning
made an attempt to pass the river to them on a raft with a parcel of roots
and bread in order to trade with them; the indian raft Struck a rock upset
and lost their Cargo; the river haveing Swallowed both Merchindize &
roots, our traders returned with empty bags. This morning Geo. Drewyer
accompanied by Hohastillpilp Set out in Serch of two tomahawks of ours
which we have understood were in the possession of certain indians
resideing at a distance in the Plains on the South Side of Flat Head
river; one is a pipe tomahawk which Capt L. left at our Camp on Musquetor
Creek and the other was stolen from me whilst we lay at the forks of this
and Chopunnish rivers last fall. Colter and Willard Set out this morning
on a hunting excurtion towards the quawmash grounds beyond Colins creek.
we begin to feel Some anxiety with respect to Sergt. Ordway and party who
were Sent to Lewis's river for salmon; we have receved no intillegence of
them Sence they Set out. we desired Drewyer to make Some enquiry after the
Twisted hair; the old man has not been as good as his word with respect to
encamping near us, and we fear we Shall be at a loss to procure guides to
conduct us by the different routs we wish to pursue from Travillers rest
to the waters of the Missouri
[Lewis, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2cd 1806. McNeal and york were sent on a trading voyage over
the river this morning. having exhausted all our merchandize we are
obliged to have recourse to every subterfuge in order to prepare in the
most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our
journy, the Rocky Mountain, where hungar and cold in their most rigorous
forms assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our
sufferings in those mountains in September last, and I think it probable
we never shall. Our traders McNeal and York were furnished with the
buttons which Capt. C. and myself cut off our coats, some eye water and
Basilicon which we made for that purpose and some Phials and small tin
boxes which I had brought out with Phosphorus. in the evening they
returned with about 3 bushels of roots and some bread having made a
successful) voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good
cargo to an East India Merchant. — Collins, Sheilds, R & J. Feilds
and Shannon set out on a hunting excurtion to the Quawmash grounds on the
lower side of Collins's Creek. our horses many of them have become so wild
that we cannot take them without the assistance of the Indians who are
extreemly dextrous in throwing a rope and taking them with a noose about
the neck; as we frequently want the use of our horses when we cannot get
the assistance of the indians to take them, we had a strong pound formed
today in order to take them at pleasure. Drewyer arrived this evening with
Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohastillpilp who had accompanyed him to the lodges
of the persons who had our tomahawks. he obtained both the tomahawks
principally by the influence of the former of these Cheifs. the one which
had been stolen we prized most as it was the private property of the late
Sergt. Floyd and Capt. C. was desireous of returning it to his friends.
the man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the Indian that had
stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arrival just expiring.
his relations were unwilling to give up the tomehawk as they intended to
bury it with the disceased owner, but were at length induced to do so for
the consideration of a hadkerchief, two strands of beads, which Drewyer
gave them and two horses given by the cheifs to be killed agreeably to
their custom at the grave of the disceased. The bands of the Chopunnish
who reside above the junction of Lewis's river and the Kooskooske bury
their dead in the earth and place stones on the grave. they also stick
little splinters of wood in betwen the interstices of the irregular mass
of stone piled on the grave and afterwards cover the whole with a roof of
board or split timber. the custom of sacreficing horses to the disceased
appears to be common to all the nations of the plains of Columbia. a wife
of Neeshneeparkkeeook died some short time since, himself and hir
relations saceficed 28 horses to her. The Indians inform us that there are
a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them on the East branch of Lewis's river
which they call Tommanamah R. about Noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wizer
returned with 17 salmon and some roots of cows; the distance was so great
from which they had brought the fish that most of them were nearly
spoiled. these fish were as fat as any I ever saw; sufficiently so to cook
themselves without the addition of grease; those which were sound were
extreemly delicious; their flesh is of a fine rose colour with a small
admixture of yellow. these men set out on the 27th ult. and in stead of
finding the fishing shore at the distance of half a days ride as we had
been informed, they did not reach the place at which they obtained their
fish untill the evening of the 29th having travelled by their estimate
near 70 miles. the rout they had taken however was not a direct one; the
Indians conducted them in the first instance to the East branch of Lewis's
river about 20 miles above it's junction with the South branch, a distance
of about 50 Ms. where they informed them they might obtain fish; but on
their arrival at that place finding that the salmon had not yet arrived or
were not taken, they were conducted down that river to a fishery a few
miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's river about 20 Ms.
further, here with some difficulty and remaining one day they purchased
the salmon which they brought with them. the first 20 Ms. of their rout
was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open country, the hills of the
creek continued high and broken with some timber near it's borders. the
ballance of their rout was though a high broken mountanous country
generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile in this quarter they
met with an abundance of deer and some bighorned animals. the East fork of
Lewis's river they discribe as one continued rapid about 150 Yds. wide
it's banks are in most places solid and perpendicular rocks, which rise to
a great hight; it's hills are mountains high. on the tops of some of those
hills over which they passed, the snow had not entirely disappeared, and
the grass was just springing up. at the fishery on Lewis's river below the
forks there is a very considerable rapid nearly as great from the
information of Segt. Ordway as the great falls of the Columbia the river
200 Yds. wide. their common house at this fishery is built of split timber
150 feet long and 35 feet wide flat at top. The general course from hence
to the forks of Lewis's river is a little to the West of south about 45
Ms. — The men at this season resort their fisheries while the women
are employed in collecting roots. both forks of Lewis's river above their
junction appear to enter a high Mountainous country. — my sick horse
being much reduced and apearing to be in such an agoni of pain that there
was no hope of his recovery I ordered him shot this evening. the other
horses which we casterated are all nearly recovered, and I have no
hesitation in declaring my beleif that the indian method of gelding is
preferable to that practiced by ourselves.
[Clark, June 2, 1806]
Monday June 2nd 1806 McNeal and York were Sent on a tradeing voyage over
the river this morning. having exhosted all our Merchendize we were
obliged to have recourse to every Subterfuge in order to prepare in the
most ample manner in our power to meet that wretched portion of our
journy, the Rocky Mountains, where hungar and Cold in their most regorous
form assail the waried traveller; not any of us have yet forgotten our
those mountains in September last, I think it probable we never Shall. Our
traders McNeal and York are furnished with the buttons which Capt L-. and
my Self Cut off of our Coats, Some eye water and Basilicon which we made
for that purpose and Some phials of eye water and Some tin boxes which
Capt L. had brought from Philadelphia. in the evening they returned with
about 3 bushels of roots and Some bread haveing made a Suckcessfull
voyage, not much less pleasing to us than the return of a good Cargo to an
East India merchant.
Shields, Collins, Reuben & Joseph Field & Shannon Set out on a
hunting excurtion to the quaw mash the lower side of Collins Creek &
towards the Mountains.
Drewyer arived this evening with Neeshneparkkeeook and Hohashillpilp who
had accompanied him to the lodge of the person who had our tomahawks. he
obtained both the tomahawks principally by the influence of the former of
those Chiefs. the one which had been Stolen we prized most as it was the
private property of the late Serjt. Floyd and I was desireous of returning
it to his friends. The man who had this tomahawk had purchased it from the
man who had Stolen it, and was himself at the moment of their arival just
expireing. his relations were unwilling to give up the tomahawk as they
intended to bury it with the deceased owner, but were at length to do so
for the Consideration of a handkerchief, two Strands of heeds, which
drewyer gave them and two horses given by the Chiefs to be Killed
agreeable to their custom at the grave of the deceased. The custom of
Sacrificeing horses to the disceased appears to be Common to all the
nations of the plains of the Columbia. a Wife of Neeshneeparkkeeook died
Some Short time Sence, himself and her relations sacrificed horses to her.
The Indians inform us that there is a plenty of Moos to the S. E. of them
on the East branch of Lewis's river which they Call Tommawamah River.
About noon Sergt. Ordway Frazier and Wiser returnd. with 17 Salmon and
Some roots of the Cows; the distance was So great from whence they brought
the fish, that most of them were nearly Spoiled. those fish were as fat as
any I ever saw; Sufficiently So to cook themselves without the addition of
Grease or butter; those which were Sound were extreemly delicious; their
flesh is of a fine rose colour with a Small admixture of yellow. these men
Set out on the 27th ulto. and in Sted of finding the fishing Shore at the
distance of half a days ride as we had been informed, they did not reach
the place at which they obtained their fish untill the evening of the 29th
haveing traveled near 70 miles. the rout they had taken however was not a
direct one; the Indians Conducted them in the first instance to the East
fork of Lewis's river about 10 miles above it's junction with the South
branch, a distance of about 50 miles where they informed them they might
obtain fish; but on their arival at that place finding that the Salmon had
not arived or were not taken, they were Conducted down that river to a
fishery a fiew miles below the junction of the forks of Lewis's River
about 20 miles further, here they remained one day and with some
dificuelty, they purchased the Salmon which they brought with them. the
first 20 ms. Of their rout was up Commeap Creek and through a plain open
Country, the hills of the Creek Continued high and broken with Some timber
near it's borders, the ballance of their rout was through a high broken
Mountanious Country. generally well timbered with pine the soil fertile.
in this quarter the meet with abundance of deer and Some big-horned
Animals. The East fork of Lewis's river they discribe as one Continued
rapid of about 150 yards wide, it's banks are in most places Solid and
perpindicular rocks, which rise to a great hight; it's hills are
mountanious high. on the top of Some of those hills over which they
passed, the Snow had not entirely disappeared, and the grass was just
springing up. at the fishery on Lewis's river below the forks there is a
very Considerable rapid, nearly as Great from the information of Sergt.
Ordway as the Great falls of the Columbia the river 200 yards wide. their
common house at this fishery is built of Split timber 150 feet long and 35
feet in width, flat at top. the general Course from here to the forks of
Lewis's river is a little to the west of South about 45 ms. The men at
this Season resort their fisheries while the womin are employed in
collecting roots-. both forks above the junction of Lewis's river appear
to enter a high Mountainious Country. our horses are all recovering &
I have no hesitation in declareing that I believe that the Indian Method
of guilding preferable to that practised by ourselves.
[Lewis, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806. Our invalids are all on the recovery; Bratton is
much stronger and can walk about with considerable ease. the Indian Cheif
appears to be gradually recovering the uce of his limbs, and the child is
nearly well; the imposthume on his neck has in a great measure subsided
and left a hard lump underneath his left ear; we still continue the
application of the onion poltice. at 2 P.M. The Broken arm and 3 of his
wariars visited us and remained all night. Colter, Jo. Fields and Willard
returned this evening with five deer and one bear of the brown speceis;
the hair of this was black with a large white spot on the breast
containing a small circular black spot. today the Indians dispatched an
express over the mountains to travellers rest or the neighbourhood of that
Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from the Oote-lash-shoots a band
of the Flatheads who have wintered there, the occurrences that have taken
place on the East side of the mountains during that season. this is the
band which we first met with on that river. the mountains being
practicable for this express we thought it probable that we could also
pass, but the indians informed us that several of the creeks would yet
swim our horses, that there was no grass and that the roads were extreemly
deep and slipery; they inform us that we may pass conveniently in twelve
or fourteen days. we have come to a resolution to remove from hence to the
quawmash grounds beyond Collins's creek on the 10th to hunt in that
neighbourhood a few days, if possible lay in a stock of meat and then
attempt the mountains about the middle of this month. I begin to lose all
hope of any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall
sufficiently to take them before we shall leave it, and as yet I see no
appearance of their runing near the shores as the indians informed us they
would in the course of a few days. I find that all the salmon which they
procure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither
is too great for us to think of sending after them even had we merchandize
with which to purchase.
[Clark, June 3, 1806]
Tuesday June 3rd 1806 Our invalids are all on the recovery; bratten is
much Stronger and can walk about with Considerable ease. the Indian Chief
appears to be gradually recovering the use of his limbs, and the child is
nearly well; the inflomation on his neck Continus but the Swelling appears
to Subside. we Still Continue the application of the onion poltice. at 3
P.M. the broken arm and three wariors visited us and remained all night.
Colter, Jos. Fields and Willard returned this evening with five deer and
one bear of the brown Species; the hair of this was black with a large
white Spot on the breast containing a Small circular black Spot. (this
Species of bear is Smaller than our Common black bear) this was a female
bear and as our hunters informed us had cubs last year, this they judged
from the length and Size of her tits &c. this bear I am Confident is
not larger than the yerlin Cubs of our Country. To day the Indians
dispatched an express over the mountains to Travellers rest or to the
neighbourhood of that Creek on Clark's river in order to learn from a band
of Flat-Heads who inhabit that river and who have probably Wintered on
Clarks river near the enterance of travellers rest Creek, the occurences
which have taken place on the East Side of the mountains dureing the last
winter. this is the band which we first met with on that river. the
Mountains being practicable for this express we thought it probable that
we could also pass, but the Chiefs informs us that Several of the Creek's
would yet swim our horses, that there was no grass and that the road was
extreemly deep and slipery; they inform us that we may pass Conveniently
in twelve or fourteen days. we have come to a resolution to remove from
hence to the Quawmash Grounds beyond Colins Creek on the 10th to hunt in
that neighbourhood a fiew days, if possible lay in a Stock of Meat, and
then attempt the Mountains about the Middle of this month. I begin to lose
all hope of any dependance on the Salmon as this river will not fall
Sufficiently to take them before we Shall leave it, and as yet I see no
appearance of their running near the Shore as the indians informed us they
would in the course of a fiew days. I find that all the Salmon which they
precure themselves they obtain on Lewis's river, and the distance thither
is too great for us to think of Sending after them, even had we
merchendize with which to purchase the salmon..
[Lewis, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806. about noon The 3 Cheifs left us and returned to
their vilages. while they were with us we repeated the promises we had
formerly made them and invited them to the Missouri with us, they declined
going untill the latter end of the summer and said it was there intention
to spend the ensuing winter on the East side of the Rocky mountains. they
gave us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or three
of their young men should accompany me to the falls of the Missouri and
there wait my return from the upper part of Maria's river where it was
probable I should meet with some of the bands of the Minnetares from Fort
de Prarie; that in such case I should indeavor to bring about a good
understanding between those indians and themselves, which when effected
they would be informed of it though the young men thus sent with me, and
that on the contrary should I not be fortunate enough to meet with these
people nor to prevail on them to be at peace they would equally be
informed through those young men, and they might still remain on their
guard with rispect to them untill the whites had it in their power to give
them more effectual releif. The Broken Arm invited us to his village and
said he wished to speak to us before we set out, and that he had some
roots to give us for our journey over the mountains; Capt. C. promised to
visit him as he wished the day after tomorrow. — Sheilds returned this
evening from the quawmash grounds with 2 deer which he had killed.
[Clark, June 4, 1806]
Wednesday June 4th 1806 about noon the 3 chiefs left us and returned to
their villages. While they were with us we repeeted the promisces we had
formerly made them and envited them to the Missouri with us, they declined
going untill the latter end of the Summer, and Said it was their intintion
to Spend the insiewing winter on the East Side of the Rocky Mountains,
they gave us no positive answer to a request which we made, that two or
three of their young men Should accompany Capt L. to the falls of Missouri
and there wait his return from the upper part of Maria's river where it
was probable he Should meet with Some of the bands of the Blakfoot Indians
and Minitarres of Fort dePrarie, that in Such Case Capt L. would indeavor
to bring about a good understanding between those indians and themselves,
which when effected they would be informed of it through the young men
thus Sent with him. and that on the contrary Should he not be fortunate
enough to meet with those people, nor to provaile on them to be at peace
they would equally be informed through those young men, and they might
Still remain on their guard with respect to them, untill the Whites had it
more in their Power to give them more effectual relief. I also urged the
necessaty of Sending one or two of their Considerate men to accompany me
by way of the Shoshonees on the head of Jeffersons river and about the
three forks of the Missouri which whome there is most probably Some of the
Chiefs of those bands of Shoshones with whome they are at war, and by
which means a message Sent to that nation & good understanding brought
about between the Shoshones and the Chopunnish Nations which appears to be
the wish of both Nations. The Broken Arm envited us to his Village and
Said he wished to Speak to us before we Set out, and that he had Some
roots to give us for our journey over the mountains; I promised to visit
him as he wished the day after tomorrow-. Shields returned this evining
from the Quawmash grounds with two Deer which he had killed
[Lewis, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806. Colter and Bratton were permitted to visit the
indian villages today for the purpose of trading for roots and bread, they
were fortunate and made a good return. we gave the indian cheif another
sweat today, continuing it as long as he could possibly bear it; in the
evening he was very languid but appeared still to improve in the use of
his limbs. the child is recovering fast the inflamation has subsided
intirely, we discontinued the poltice, and applyed a plaster of basilicon;
the part is still considerably swolen and hard. in the evening R. Feilds
Shannon and Labuish return from the chaise and brought with them five deer
and a brown bear. among the grasses of this country I observe a large
speceis which grows in moist situations; it rises to the hight of eight or
ten feet, the culm is jointed, hollow, smooth, as large as a goos quill
and more firm than ordinary grasses; the leaf is linnear broad and rough;
it has much the appearance of the maden cain as it is called in the state
of Gergia, and retains it's virdure untill late in the fall. this grass
propegates principally by the root which is horizontal and perennial. a
second speceis grows in tussucks and rises to the hight of six or eight
feet; it seems to delight in the soil of the river bottoms which possess a
greater mixture of sand than the hills in this neighbourhood. this is also
a harsh course grass; it appears to be the same which is called the Corn
grass in the Southern states, and the foxtail in Virginia. a third speceis
resembles the cheet, tho the horses feed on it very freely. a fourth and
most prevalent speceis is a grass which appears to be the same called the
blue grass common to many parts of the United States; it is common to the
bottom as well as the uplands, is now seeding and is from 9 inches to 2
feet high; it affords an excellent pasture for horses and appears to bear
the frosts and snow better than any grass in our country; I therefore
regret very much that the seed will not be ripe before our probable
departure. this is a fine soft grass and would no doubt make excellent hay
if cultivated. I do not find the greenswoard here which we met with on the
lower part of the Columbia. there are also several speceis of the wild rye
to be met with in the praries. among the plants and shrubs common to our
contry I observe here the seven bark, wild rose, vining honeysickle, sweet
willow, red willow, longleafed pine, Cattail or cooper's flag,
lamsquarter, strawberry, raspberry, tonge grass, musterd, tanzy,
sinquefield, horsemint, coltsfoot, green plantin, cansar weed, elder,
shoemate and several of the pea blume flowering plants.
[Clark, June 5, 1806]
Thursday June 5th 1806 Colter and Bratten were permitted to visit the
Indian Village to day for the purpose of tradeing for roots and bread,
they were fortunate and made a good return. we gave the Indian Cheif
another Sweat to-day, continuing it as long as he could bear it. in the
evening he was very languid but Still to improve in the use of his limbs.
the Child is revovereing fast. I applied a plaster of Sarve made of the
Rozen of the long leafed pine, Beas wax and Beare oil mixed, which has
Subsided the inflomation entirely, the part is Considerably Swelled and
hard-. in the evening Reuben Fields, G. Shannon, Labiech, & Collins
returned from the chaise and brought with them five deer and a brown Bear.
Among the Grasses of this Country I observe a large Species which grows in
moist Situations; it rises to the hight of Eight or ten feet, the Culm is
jointed, hollow, Smooth, as large as a goose quill, and more firm than
ordinary grass; the leaf is linner broad and rough; it has much the
appearance of the Meadin Cain as it is Called in the Southern parts of the
U States, and retains it's virdue untill late in the fall. this grass
propegates principally by the Root which is horozontal and perennial.. a
Second Species grows in tussucks and rises to the hight of Six or Eight
feet; it Seams to delight in the Soil of the river bottoms which possess
agreater mixture of Sand than the hills in this neighbourhood. this is
also a harsh Course grass; it appears to be the Same which is Called the
Corn grass in the Southern States, and the Foxtail in Virginia. a third
Species resembles the cheet, tho the horses feed on it very freely. a
fouth and most prevalent Species is a grass which appears to be the Same
Called the blue Grass common to maney parts of the United States; it is
common to the bottoms as well as the uplands, is now Seeding and is from 9
inches to 2 feet high; it affords an excellent paterage for horses and
appears to bear the frost and Snow better than any grass in our Country; I
therefore regrete very much that the Seed will not be ripe before our
probable departure. this is a fine Soft grass and would no doubt make
excellent hay if cultivated. I do not find the Green Sword here which we
met with on the lower part of the Columbia. There are also Several Species
of the wild Rye to be met with in the praries. among the plants and Shrubs
common to our Country I observe here the Seven bark, Wild rose, vineing
honey suckle, Sweet willow, red willow, long leafed pine, Cattail or
Coopers Flag. Lambs quarter, Strawberries, Raspberries, Goose berries,
tongue grass, Mustard, tanzy, Sinquefield, horse mint, water penerial,
elder, Coalts foot, Green Plantin, canser weed, Shoemate, and Several of
the pea blume flowering plants.. Frazier who had permission to visit the
Twisted Hairs Lodge at the distance of ten or twelve miles did not return
this evening-. The river falls in course of the day and rises Some at
night as will be Seen by the remarks in the Diary of the weather. this
most probably is the melding of the Snows dureing the day &c.
[Lewis, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806. This morning Frazier returned having been in quest
of some roots and bread which had left at the lodg of the Twisted hair
when on his way to the fishery on Lewis's river. the Twisted hair came
with him but I was unable to converse with him for the want of an
interpreter, Drewyer being absent with Capt. C. This Cheif left me in the
evening and returned to his village. Capt C. Visited the Broken Arm today
agreeably to his promise; he took with him Drewyer and several others.
they were received in a friendly manner. The Broken Arm informed Capt. C.
that the nation would not pass the mountain untill the latter end of the
summer, and that with rispect to the young men whom we had requested
should accompany us to the falls of the Missouri, were not yet scelected
for that purpose nor could they be so untill there was a meeting of the
nation in counsil. that this would happen in the course of ten or twelve
days as the whole of the lodges were about to remove to the head of the
Commeap Creek in the plain near Lewis's river, that when they had
assembled themselves they would hold a council and scelect the young men.
that if we set out previously to that period the men would follow us. we
therefore do not calculate on any assistance from them as guides, but
depend more upon engageing some of the Ootlashshoots in the neighborhood
of Travellers rest C. for that purpose. The broken arm gave Capt. C. a few
dryed Quawmas roots as a great present, but in our estimation those of
cows are much better, I am confident they are much more healthy. The men
who were with Capt. C. obtained a good store of roots and bread in
exchange for a number of little notions, using the Yanke phrase, with
which their own enginuity had principally furnished them. on examination
we find that our whole party have an ample store of bread and roots for
our voyage, a circumstance not unpleasing. They retuned at 5 P.M. shortly
after which we were visited by Hohastillpilp the two young Cheifs who gave
us the horses in behalf of the nation some time since and several others,
who remained all night. The Kooskooske is about 150 Yds. wide at this
place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it high state
the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appeas to be
quite as cold as that of our best springs. we meet with a beautifull
little bird in this neighbourhood about the size and somewhat the shape of
the large spar-row. it is reather longer in proportion to it's bulk than
the sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beek to that
of the tail, the latter occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is reather more
than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia
nitingale; it is thick and large for a bird of it's size; wide at the
base, both chaps convex, and pointed, the uper exceeds the under chap a
little is somewhat curved and of a brown colour; the lower chap of a
greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black colour both
puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and
head is of a fine orrange yellow and red, the latter predominates on the
top of the head and arround the base of the beak from whence it graduly
deminishes & towards the lower part of the neck, the orrange yellow
prevails most; the red has the appearance of being laid over a ground of
yellow. the breast, the sides, rump and some long feathers which lie
between the legs and extend underneath the tail are of a fine orrange
yellow. the tail, back and wings are black, ecept a small stripe of yellow
on the outer part of the middle joint of the wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and
an inch in length. the tail is composed of twelve feathers of which those
in the center are reather shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of
the tail is longest on that side of the quill next the center of the tail.
the legs and feet are black, nails long and sharp; it has four toes on
each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as
long as the two outer of the three toes in front.
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
Friday June 6th 1806 I visited the Broken Arm to day agreeable to my
promis of the 4th inst. and took with me Drewyer & three other men I
was receved in a friendly manner. The broken Arm informed me that maney of
the Small chiefs of the different Bands of his nation had not heard our
word from our own mouths, Several of them were present and was glad to See
me &c. I repeeted in part what had been Said in Council before. The
Broken arm told me that the nation would not pass the mountains untill the
latter part of the Summer, and with respect to the young men who we had
requested to accompany us to the falls of Missouri, were not yet Selected
for that purpose nor could they be So untill they had a Meeting of the
Nation in Council. that this would happen in the Course of ten or 12 days
as the whole of the Lodges were about to Move to the head of Commeap Creek
in the Plain of Lewis's river, that when they held a council they would
Select two young men. that if we Set out previously to that time the men
would follow us. we therefore do not Calculate any assistance from them as
guides, but depend more upon engageing Some of the Oatlash-shoots on
Clarks river in the neighbouringhood of Travellers rest C. for that
purpose. The Broken Arm gave me a fiew Quawmash roots as a great preasent,
but in my estimation those of Cows is much better. I am Confident they are
much more healthy. The Broken Arm informed me that they had latterly been
informed that a party of the Shoshones had arived at the Ye-E-al-po Nation
who reside to the South of the enterance of Kooskooske into Lewis's river.
and had informed that people that their nation (the Shoshones) had
received the talk which was given their relations on the head of the East
fork of Lewis's river last fall, and were resolved to pursue our Councils,
and had came foward for the purpose of makeing peace with them, and allso
with the Chopunnish &c. that they had Sent Several men in Serch of
those people with a view to bring them to Lewis's river at which place the
Broken Arm informed me he Should meet them and Smoke the pipe of peace.
which he Should afterwards Send by with Some of his Chiefs in company with
those Shoshones to their nation and confirm a piece which never Should be
broken on his part. he produced two pipes one of which he said was as a
present to me the other he intended to Send to the Shoshones &c. and
requested me to take one, I receved the one made in the fascion of the
Country, the other which was of Stone curiously inlaid with Silver in the
common form which he got from the Shoshones. I deckorated the Stem of this
pipe with blue ribon and white wampom and informed the Chief this was the
emblem of peace with us.
The men who accompanied me obtained a good Store of roots and bread in
exchange for a number of little notions, useing the Yanke phrase, with
which their own enginuiety had principally furnished them. on examonation
we find our whole party have a Sufficient Store of bread and roots for our
Voyage. a Circumstance not unpleasing-.
I returned at 4 P. M followed by Hohastillpilp the 2 young Chiefs who gave
us the horses in behalf of the nation Some time Sence, the young man who
gave us the horse at Collins Creek to kill as we Came up, and Several
others. I met the twisted hair and two other indians with Frazier on the
opposit bank from our Camp this Morning & Sent him over to our Camp. I
met him this evening on his return home. he informed me he could not
accompany us across the mountains as his brother was Sick &c..
[Clark, June 6, 1806]
The Chopunnish call the Crow Indians Up-shar-look-kar
Chopunnish name for Sin-sho-cal Dearbourne R ditto — do — Cal la
mar-Sha mosh Meddesons ditto — do — Co-ma win-nim Maria River
ditto ditto- Ta-ki-a-ki-a Mescle Shell R ditto — ditto
Wah-wo-ko-ye-o-cose is th ____ ditto do — Rockejhone — Elk river
ditto do — Koos-koos-an-nim-a the little Missouri ditto — do-
Walch-Nim-mah — Knife R ditto — do Ni-hi-Sir-te — C. R
[Lewis, June 7, 1806]
Saturday June 7th 1806. The two young Cheifs who visited last evening
returned to their village on Commeap C. with some others of the natives.
Sergt. Gass, McNeal, Whitehouse and Goodrich accompanyed them with a view
to procure some pack or lash ropes in exchange for parts of an old sain,
fish giggs, peices of old iron, old files and some bullets. they were also
directed to procure some bags for the purpose of containing our roots
& bread. in the evening they all returned except Whitehouse and
Goodrich who remained all night. they procured a few strings but no bags.
Hohastillpilp passed the river today and brought over a horse which he
gave Frazier one of our party who had previously made him a present of a
pair of Cannadian shoes or shoe-packs. Drewyer set out on a hunting
excurtion up Collins's Creek this evening. we wish to leave the deer in
the neighbourhood of the quawmash plains undisturbed untill the 10th when
we intend removing thither to lay in some meat for our voyage over the
Mountains. our party are much engaged in preparing their saddles arranging
their loads provisions &c for our departure. There is a speceis of
cherry which grows in this neighbourhood in sitations like the Choke
cherry or near the little rivulets and wartercouses. it seldom grows in
clumps or from the same cluster of roots as the choke cherry dose. the
stem is simple branching reather diffuse stem the cortex is of a redish
dark brown and reather smooth. the leaf is of the ordinary dexture and
colour of those of most cherries, it is petiolate; a long oval 11/4 inhes
in length and 1/2 an inch in width, obtuse, margin so finely serrate that
it is scarcely perseptable & smooth. the peduncle is common 1 inch in
length, branch proceeding from the extremities as well as the sides of the
branches, celindric gradually tapering; the secondary peduncles are about
1/2 an inch in length scattered tho proceeding more from the extremity of
the common peduncle and are each furnished with a small bracted. the parts
of fructification are much like those discribed of the choke cherry except
that the petals are reather longer as is the calix reather deeper. the
cherry appears to be half grown, the stone is begining to be hard and is
in shape somewhat like that of the plumb; it appears that when ripe it
would be as large as the Kentish cherry, which indeed the growth of the
bush somewhat resembles; it rises about 6 or 8 feet high
[Clark, June 7, 1806]
Saurday June 7th 1806. The two young cheafs and other Indians who
accompanied them Crossed the river and returned to their Village this
morning after brackfast; Shabono Sergt Gass McNeal, Whitehouse &
Goodrich accompanied them for the purpose of purchaseing or exchangeing
old peces of Sane, fish gig, peces of iron, bullets, and old files and
Such articles as they Could raise for ropes and Strings for to lash their
loads, and bags to Cary their roots in Sergt. Gass, Shabono & McNeal
returned at 2 P M haveing precured a String each only. Whitehouse and
Goodrich continued at the Village all night. Hohastillpilp crossed the
river to day and brought over a horse and gave it to Frazier one of our
party who had made him a present previously of a Par of Canidian Shoes.
one of our men informed me one of the young Chiefs who had given us two
horses already was in Serch of one which he intended to give to me. George
Drewyer Set out on a hunting excurtion up Collins's Creek alone. our party
are all much engaged in prepareing Sadles and packing up their Stores of
Provisions &c. — The Flat Head river is about 150 yards wide at
this place and discharges a vast body of water; notwithstanding it's high
State the water remains nearly transparent, and it's temperature appears
to be quit as cold as that of our best Springs. we met with a butifull
little bird in this neighbourhood about the Size and Somewhat the Shape of
the large Sparrow. it measures 7 inches from the extremity of the beak to
that of the tail, the latter Occupying 21/2 inches. the beak is reather
more than half an inch in length, and is formed much like the Virginia
Nightingal; red bd. it is thick and large for a bird of it's size, wide at
the base, both Chaps convex, and pointed, the upper exceeds the under chap
a little is Somewhat cirved and of a brown Colour; the lower chap of a
Greenish yellow. the eye full reather large and of a black colour both
puple and iris. the plumage is remarkably delicate; that of the neck and
head is of a fine orrange yellow and red. the latter predomonates on the
top of the head and around the base of the beak from whence it gradually
diminishes towards the lower part of the Neck, the orring yellow prevails
most, the red has the Appearance of haveing been laid over a Ground of
yellow. the breast, the Sides, rump and some long feathers which lie
between the legs extend underneath the tail is of a fine orrange yellow.
the tail, back and wings are black, except a Small Strip of yellow on the
outer part of the Middle joint of the wing, 1/4 of an inch wide and an
inch in length. the tail is composed of 12 feathers of which those in the
Center are reather Shortest, and the plumage of all the feathers of the
tail is longest on that Side of the quill next to the Center of the tail.
the legs and feet are black, nails long and Sharp; it has four toes on
each foot, of which three are forward and one behind; that behind is as
long as the two outer of the three toes in front
[Lewis, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806. Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without
having killed anything. his hose left him last night, he pursued him but
did not overtake him untill he had nearly reached our camp. The sick Cheif
is fast on the recovery, he can bear his weight on his legs, and has
acquired a considerable portion of strength. the child is nearly well;
Bratton has so far recovered that we cannot well consider him an invalid
any longer, he has had a tedious illness which he boar with much fortitude
and firmness. — The Cutnose visited us today with ten or twelve
warriors; two of the latter were Y-e-let-pos a band of the Chopunnish
nation residing on the South side of Lewis's river whom we have not
previously seen. the band with which we have been most conversent call
themselves pel-late-pal-ler. one of the yeletpos exchanged his horse for
an indifferent one of ours and received a tomahawk to boot; this tomahawk
was one for which Capt. C. had given another in exchange with the
Clahclel-lah Chief at the rapids of the Columbia. we also exchanged two
other of our indifferent horses with unsound backs for much better horses
in fine order without any consideration but the horse itself. several foot
rarces were run this evening between the indians and our men. the indians
are very active; one of them proved as fleet as Drewer and R. Fields, our
swiftest runners. when the racing was over the men divided themselves into
two parties and played prison base, by way of exercise which we wish the
men to take previously to entering the mountain; in short those who are
not hunters have had so little to do that they are geting reather lazy and
slouthfull. — after dark we had the violin played and danced for the
amusement of ourselves and the indians. — one of the indians informed
us that we could not pass the mountains untill the full of the next moon
or about the first of July, that if we attempted it sooner our horses
would be at least three days travel without food on the top of the
mountain; this information is disagreable inasmuch as it causes some doubt
as to the time at which it will be most proper for us to set out. however
as we have no time to loose we will wrisk the chanches and set out as
early as the indians generally think it practicable or the middle of this
month.
[Clark, June 8, 1806]
Sunday June 8th 1806 Drewyer returned this morning from the chase without
killing any thing. his horse left him last night and he prosued him near
our camp before he cought him. The Sick Chief is much mended, he can bear
his weight on his legs and recovers Strength. the Child has nearly
recovered. The Cut nose and ten or 12 came over today to visit us, two of
those were of the tribes from the plains of Lewis's river whome we had not
before Seen; one of those men brought a horse which I gave a tomahawk
which I had exchanged for with the Chief of the Clahclahlah's Nation below
the Great rapids of Columbia, and broken-down horse which was not able to
Cross the mountains. we also exchanged 2 of our indeferent horses for
Sound back horses. in the evening Several foot races were run by the men
of our party and the Indians; after which our party divided and played at
prisoners base untill night. after dark the fiddle was played and the
party amused themselves in danceing. one of those Indians informed us that
we could not cross the mountains untill the full of the next moon, or
about the 1st of July. if we attempted it Sooner our horses would be three
days without eateing, on the top of the Mountns. this information is
disagreeable to us, in as much as it admits of Some doubt, as to the time
most proper for us to Set out. at all events we Shall Set out at or about
the time which the indians Seem to be generally agreed would be the most
proper. about the middle of this month
[Lewis, June 9, 1806]
Monday June 9th 1806. This morning we had all our horses brought up and
indeavoured to exchange five or shix with the Indians in consequence of
their having unsound backs but succeeded in exchanging one only.
Hohastillpilp with several of the natives who visited us yesterday took
leave of us and set out for the plains near Lewis's river where the nation
are about to assemble themselves. The broken arm made us a short visit
this morning and took leave of us, being about to set out with his village
today in order to join the nation at their rendezvouz on Lewis's R. The
Cutnose or Neeshneeparkkeeook borrowed a horse and rode down the
Kooskooske River a few miles this morning in quest of some young eagles
which he intends raising for the benifit of their feathers; he returned
soon after with a pair of young Eagles of the grey kind; they were nearly
grown and prety well feathered. in the evening the young Chief who gave
both Capt. C. and myself a horse some time since, came to our camp with a
party of young men and remained all night. this evening one of our party
obtained a very good horse for an indifferent one by giving the indian an
old leather shirt in addition. we eat the last of our meat yesterday
evening and have lived on roots today. our party seem much elated with the
idea of moving on towards their friends and country, they all seem allirt
in their movements today; they have every thing in readiness for a move,
and notwithstanding the want of provision have been amusing themselves
very merrily today in runing footraces pitching quites, prison basse &c.
the river has been falling for several days and is now lower by near six
feet than it has been; this we view as a strong evidence that the great
body of snow has left the mountains, though I do not conceive that we are
as yet loosing any time as the roads is in many parts extreemly steep
rocky and must be dangerous if wet and slippry; a few days will dry the
roads and will also improve the grass.
[Clark, June 9, 1806]
Moday June 9th 1806 We had all of our horses brought up and attempted to
exchange our Sore back and most indifferent horses with the indians for
Sound back horses, we exchanged one only. Hohasillpilp took his leave of
us and Set out for the Plains of Lewises river, with Several of the nativs
who Visited us yesterday. The broken arm came over and continued a fiew
minits with us this morning, and also took his leave of us & Set out
with his Village for the plains of Lewis's river. The Cut nose borrowed a
horse and rode down the flathead river a fiew miles to take Some young
Eagles, which he intends to raise for their feathers. in the evening one
of the young Cheifs who had given both Capt Lewis and my Self a horse came
to our camp accompanied by 10 of his people and continued with us all
night. one of our men exchanged a very indefferent horse for a very good
one. our party exolted with the idea of once more proceeding on towards
thier friends and Country are elert in all their movements and amuse
themselves by pitching quates, Prisoners bast running races &c-.
The flat head river is Still falling fast and nearly as low as it was at
the time we arrived at this place. this fall of water is what the nativs
have informed us was a proper token for us. when this river fell the Snows
would be Sufficiently melted for us to Cross the Mountains. the greater
length of time we delayed after that time, the higher the grass would grow
on th Mountains-.
[Lewis, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806. This morning we arrose early and had our horses
collected except one of Cruzatt's and one of Whitehouse's, which were not
to be found; after a surch of some hours Cruzatt's horse was obtained and
the indians promised to find the other and bring it to us at the quawmash
flatts where we purpose encamping a few days. at 11 A.M. we set out with
the party each man being well mounted and a light load on a second horse,
beside which we have several supenemary horses in case of accedent or the
want of provision, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the
mountains. we ascended the river hills which are very high and about three
miles in extent our sourse being N. 22° E. thence N. 15 W. 2 m to
Collins's creek. thence due North 5 m. to the Eastern border of the
quawmash flatts where we encamped near the place we first met with the
Chopunnish last fall. the pass of Collins's Creek was deep and extreemly
difficult tho we passed without sustaining further injury than weting some
of our roots and bread. the country through which we passed is extreemly
fertile and generally free of stone, is well timbered with several speceis
of fir, long leafed pine and larch. the undergrowth is chooke cherry near
the water courses, black alder, a large speceis of redroot now in blume, a
growth which resembles the pappaw in it's leaf and which bears a burry
with five valves of a deep perple colour, two speceis of shoemate
sevenbark, perple haw, service berry, goosburry, a wild rose honeysuckle
which bears a white berry, and a species of dwarf pine which grows about
ten or twelve feet high. bears a globular formed cone with small scales,
the leaves are about the length and much the appearance of the common
pitch pine having it's leaves in fassicles of two; in other rispects they
would at a little distance be taken for the young plants of the long
leafed pine. there are two speceis of the wild rose both quinqui petallous
and of a damask red but the one is as large as the common red rose of our
gardens. I observed the apples of this speceis last fall to be more than
triple the size of those of the ordinary wild rose; the stem of this rose
is the same with the other tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we
encamped this evening we sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on
which we suped much to our satisfaction. we had scarcely reached Collins's
Creek before we were overtaken by a party of Indians who informed us that
they were going to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I beleive is
the expectation of bing fed by us in which how ever kind as they have been
we must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we should
use all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide meat for
our journey. they have encamped with us. we find a great number of
burrowing squirels about our camp of which we killed several; I eat of
them and found them quite as tender and well flavored as our grey squirel.
saw many sand hill crains and some ducks in the slashey glades about this
place.
[Clark, June 10, 1806]
Tuesday June 10th 1806. rose early this morning and had all the horses
Collected except one of Whitehouses horses which could not be found, an
Indian promised to find the horse and bring him on to us at the quawmash
fields at which place we intend to delay a fiew days for the laying in
Some meat by which time we Calculate that the Snows will have melted more
off the mountains and the grass raised to a sufficient hight for our
horses to live. we packed up and Set out at 11 A M we Set out with the
party each man being well mounted and a light load on a 2d horse, besides
which we have several supernumary horses in case of accident or the want
of provisions, we therefore feel ourselves perfectly equiped for the
Mountains. we assended the hills which are very high and about three miles
in extent our course being N. 22° E, thence N. 15° W 2 ms. to Collins
Creek. Thence North 5 Miles to the Eastern boarders of the Quawmash flatts
where we encamped near the place I first met with the Chopunnish Nation
last fall. the pass of Collins Creek was deep and extreemly difficult tho
we passed without sustaining further injury than wetting some of our roots
and bread. The Country through which we passed is extreemly fertile and
generally free from Stone, is well timbered with several Species of fir,
long leafed pine and Larch. the undergrowth is choke cherry near the
watercourses, black alder, a large species of red root now in blume, a
Growth which resembles the poppaw in it's leaf and which bears a berry
with five valves of a deep purple colour, two species of Shoemate, Seven
bark, perple haw, Service berry, Goose berry, wildrose, honey suckle which
bears a white berry, and a Species of dwarf pine which grows about 10 or
12 feet high, bears a globarlar formed cone with Small Scales, the leaf is
about the length and much the appearance of the pitch pine haveing it's
leaves in fassicles of two; in other respects they would at a little
distance be taken for the young plants of the long leafed pine. There are
two Species of the wild rose both quinque petallous and of a damask red,
but the one is as large as the common red rose of our guardens. I observed
the apples of these Species last fall to be more than triple the Size of
those of the ordinary wild rose; the Stem of this rose is the Same with
the other tho the leaf is somewhat larger. after we encamped this evening
we Sent out our hunters; Collins killed a doe on which we Suped much to
our Satisfaction, we had not reached the top of the river hills before we
were overtaken by a party of 8 Indians who informed me that they were
gowing to the quawmash flatts to hunt; their object I belive is the
expectation of being fed by us in which however kind as they have been we
must disappoint them at this moment as it is necessary that we Should use
all frugallaty as well as employ every exertion to provide meat for our
journey. they have encamped with us. we find a great number of burrowing
Squirels about our camp of which we killed Several; I eate of them and
found them quit as tender and well flavd. as our grey squirel. Saw many
Sand hill crains and Some ducks in the Slashey Glades about this place-.
[Lewis, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806. All our hunters were out this morning by
daylight; Labuish and Gibson only proved successfull, the former killed a
black bear of the brown speceis and a very large buck, the latter also
killed a fine fat buck. five of the Indians also turned out and hunted
untill noon, when they returned without having killed anything; at three
P.M. the left us on their return to ther villages. previous to their
departure one of our men exchanged an indifferent horse with one of them
for a very good one. in the evening our hunters resumed the chase; as game
has become scarce and shye near our camp they were directed to hunt at a
greater distance and therefore set out prepared to remain all night and
make a mornings hunt in grounds not recently frequented. Whitehouse
returned this morning to our camp on the Kooskooske in surch of his horse. — As
I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Chopunnish
call quawmash I shall here give a more particular discription of that
plant and the mode of preparing it for food as practiced by the Chopunnish
and others in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains with whom it forms much
the greatest portion of their subsistence. we have never met with this
plant but in or adjacent to a piny or fir timbered country, and there
always in the open grounds and glades; in the Columbian vally and near the
coast it is to be found in small quantities and inferior in size to that
found in this neighbourhood and in the high rich flatts and vallees within
the rocky mountains. it delights in a black rich moist soil, and even
grows most luxuriantly where the land remains from 6 to nine inches under
water untill the seed are nearly perfect which in this neighbourhood or on
these flats is about the last of this month. neare the river where I had
an opportunity of observing it the seed were begining to ripen on the 9th
inst. and the soil was nearly dry. it seems devoted to it's particular
soil and situation, and you will seldom find it more than a few feet from
the inundated soil tho within it's limits it grows very closely in short
almost as much so as the bulbs will permit; the radix is a tunicated bulb,
much the consistence shape and appearance of the onion, glutanous or
somewhat slymy when chewed and almost tasteless and without smell in it's
unprepared state; it is white except the thin or outer tunicated scales
which are few black and not succulent; this bulb is from the size of a
nutmeg to that of a hens egg and most commonly of an intermediate size or
about as large as an onion of one years growth from the seed. the radicles
are numerous, reather large, white, flexable, succulent and diverging. the
foliage consists of from one to four seldom five radicale, linear sessile
and revolute pointed leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and
from 1 to 3/4 of an inch in widest part which is near the middle; the uper
disk is somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length with
a number of small longitudinal channels; the under disk is a deep glossy
green and smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as
the surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than
the grasses and less so than most of the fillies hyesinths &c. — the
peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth leafless
and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet. it supports from 10 to forty
flowers which are each supported by seperate footstalk of 1/2 an inch in
length scattered without order on the upper portion of the peduncle. the
calix is a partial involucret situated at the base of the footstalk of
each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to decline as soon
as the corolla expands. the corolla consists of six long oval, obtusly
pointed skye blue or water coloured petals, each about 1 inch in length;
the corolla is regular as to the form and size of the petals but irregular
as to their position, five of them are placed near ech other pointing
upward while one stands horizantally or pointing downwards, they are
inserted with a short claw on the extremity of the footstalk at the base
of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it is also shriveling, and
continues untill the seeds are perfect. The stamens are perfect, six in
number; the filaments each elivate an anther, near their base are flat on
the inside and rounded on the outer terminate in a subulate point, are
bowed or bent upwards, inserted on the inner side and on the base of the
claws of the petals, below the germ, are equal both with rispect to
themselves and the corolla, smooth & membraneous. the Anther is
oblong, obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed
longitudinally with four channels, the upper and lower of which seem
almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent patent, membranous, very
short, naked, two valved and fertile with pollen, which last is of a
yellow colour — -the anther in a few hours after the corolla unfoalds,
bursts, discharges it's pollen and becomes very minute and shrivled; the
above discription of the anther is therefore to be understood of it at the
moment of it's first appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which, the
germ is triangular reather swolen on the sides, smooth superior, sessile,
pedicelled, short in proportion to the corolla atho wide or bulky; the
style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical, bowed
or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels and
falls off when the pericarp has obtained its full size. the stigma is
three cleft very minute, & pubescent. the pericarp is a capsule,
triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three longitudinal valves.
the seed so far as I could judge are numerous not very minute and
globelar. — soon after the seeds are mature the peduncle and foliage
of this plant perishes, the grownd becomes dry or nearly so and the root
encreases in size and shortly becomes fit for use; this happens about the
middle of July when the natives begin to collect it for use which they
continue untill the leaves of the plant attain some size in the spring of
the year. when they have collected a considerable quantity of these roots
or 20 30 bushels which they readily do by means of stick sharpened at one
end, they dig away the surface of the earth forming a circular concavity
of 21/2 feet in the center and 10 feet in diameter; they next collect a
parsel of split dry wood with which they cover this bason in the grown
perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a large parsel of stones of about
4 or 6 lbs. weight which are placed on the dry wood; fire is then set to
the wood which birning heats the stones; when the fire has subsided and
the stones are sufficiently heated which are nearly a red heat, they are
adjusted in such manner in the whole as to form as level a surface as
pissible, a small quantity of earth is sprinkled over the stones and a
layer of grass about an inch thick is put over the stones; the roots,
which have been previously devested of the black or outer coat and
radicles which rub off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a
conical pile, are then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches
thick; water is now thrown on the summit of the pile and passes through
the roots and to the hot stones at bottom; some water is allso poared
arround the edges of the hole and also finds its way to the hot stones; as
soon as they discover from the quantity of steem which issues that the
water has found its way generally to the hot stones, they cover the roots
and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and then build a
fire of dry wood all over the connical mound which they continue to renew
through the course of the night or for ten or 12 hours after which it is
suffered to cool two or three hours when the earth and grass are removed
and the roots thus sweated and cooked with steam are taken out, and most
commonly exposed to the sun on scaffoalds untill they become dry, when
they are black and of a sweet agreeable flavor. these roots are fit for
use when first taken from the pitt, are soft of a sweetish tast and much
the consistency of a roasted onion; but if they are suffered to remain in
bulk 24 hour after being cooked they spoil. if the design is to make bread
or cakes of these roots they undergo a second process of baking being
previously pounded after the fist baking between two stones untill they
are reduced to the consistency of dough and then rolled in grass in cakes
of eight or ten lbs are returned to the sweat intermixed with fresh roots
in order that the steam may get freely to these loaves of bread. when
taken out the second time the women make up this dough into cakes of
various shapes and sizes usually from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick and
expose it on sticks to dry in the sun, or place it over the smoke of their
fires. — the bread this prepared if kept free from moisture will keep
sound for a great length of time. this bread or the dryed roots are
frequently eaten alone by the natives without further preparation, and
when they have them in abundance they form an ingredient in almost every
dish they prepare. this root is pallateable but disagrees with me in every
shape I have ever used it.
[Clark, June 11, 1806]
Wednesday June 11th 1806 All of our hunters were out by daylight this
Morning. Labeech and Shann was the only Suckcessull hunters, Labeech
killed a Black bear and a large buck, and Gibson killed a very fat Buck.
five of the indians also turned out and hunted untill near Meridn. without
having killed any thing. at 3 P M they all packed up and returned to their
village. one of our men exchanged an indifferent horse for a verey good
one with those people before they left us. in the evening all our hunters
turned out in different directions with a view to find some probable Spot
of killing deer and were directed to lay out all night and hunt in the
morning early. Whitehouse returned this morning to our camp on the
Kooskooske in Serch of his horse.
As I have had frequent occasion to mention the plant which the Chopunnish
and other nations of the Columbia call Quawmash I Shall here give a more
particular discription of that plant and the mode of prepareing it for
food as practiced by the Chopinnish and others in the vicinity of the
Rocky Mountains with whome it forms much the greatest portion of their
Subsistence. we have never met with this plant but in or adjacent to a
piney or fir timbered Country, and there always in the open grounds and
glades; in the Columbian Vally and near the Coast it is to be found in
small quantities and inferior in Size to that found in this neighbourhood
or on those high rich flatts and vallies within the rocky moun-tains. it
delights in a black rich moist Soil, and even grows most luxuriently where
the lands remain from 6 to 9 inches under water untill the seed are nearly
perfect, which in this neighbourhood or on those flatts is about the last
of this month. near the river where I had an oppertunity of observing it,
the Seed were beginning to ripen on the 9th inst. and the Soil was nearly
dry. it seems devoted to it's particular Soil and Situation, and you will
Seldom find more than a fiew feet from an inundated Soil tho within it's
limits it grows very closely. in short almost as much so as the bulbs will
permit. the radix is a tumicated bulb, much the consistence Shape and
appearance of the Onion, glutinous or somewhat Slymey when chewed and
almost tasteless and without smell in it's unprepared state; it is white
except the thin or outer tumicated scales which are flew black and not
Suculent; this bulb is from the Size of a nutmeg to that of a hen egg and
most commonly of an intermediate size or about as large as a common onion
of one years growth from the Seed. the radicles are noumerous, reather
large, white, flexeable, Succulent and deviding the foliage consists of
from one to four seldom five radicals, liner Sessile and revolute pointed
leaves; they are from 12 to 18 inches in length and from 1 to 3/4 of an
inch in widest part which is nearest the middle; the upper disk is
Somewhat groved of a pale green and marked it's whole length with a number
of Small longitudinal channels; the under disk is of a deep glossy green
and Smooth. the leaves sheath the peduncle and each other as high as the
Surface of the earth or about 2 inches; they are more succulent than the
grasses and less so than most of the lillies hyisinths &c. — the
peduncle is soletary, proceeds from the root, is columner, smooth and
leafless and rises to the hight of 2 or 21/2 feet. it supports from 10 to
40 flowers which are each surported by a Seperate footstalk of 1/2 an inch
in length scattered without order on the upper portion of the peduncle.
the calix is a partial involucre or involucret Situated at the base of the
footstalk of each flower on the peduncle; it is long thin and begins to
decline as soon as the corrolla expands. the corolla consists of five long
oval obtusely pointed Skye blue or water coloured petals, each about 1
inch in length; the Corolla is regular as to the form and size of the
petals but irregular as to their position, five of them are placed near
each other pointing upwards while one stands horozontially, or pointing
downwards, they are inserted with a Short Claw on the extremity of the
footstalk at the base of the germ; the corolla is of course inferior; it
is also shriveling, and continues untill the Seed are perfect. The Stamens
are perfect, Six in number; the falaments each elivate an anther, near
their base are flat on the inner side and rounded on the outer, termonate
in a subulate point, and bowed or bent upwards inserted on the inner Side
and on the base of the Claws of the petals, below the germ, are equal both
with respect to themselves and the Corolla, Smooth membranous. the Anther
is oblong obtusely pointed, 2 horned or forked at one end and furrowed
longitudinally with four channels, the upper and lower of which Seem
almost to divide it into two loabs, incumbent, patent, membranous, very
short, necked, two valved and fertile with pollen, which last is of a
yellow colour. the Anther in a fiew hours after the Corolla unfoalds,
bursts discharges it's pollen and becomes very manute and chrivled; the
above discription of the Anther is therefore to be understood of it, at
the moment of it's first appearance. the pistillum is only one, of which
the Germ is triangular reather Swolen on the Sides, Smooth, Superior,
Sessile, pedicelled, Short in proportion to the Corolla tho wide or bulky;
the Style is very long or longer than the stamens, simple, cilindrical,
bowed or bent upwards, placed on the top of the germ, membranous shrivels
and falls off when the pericarp has obtained it's full Size.
the Stigma is three clefts very manute and pubescent. the pericarp is a
capsule, triangular, oblong, obtuse, and trilocular with three
longitudinal valves. the Seed So far as I could judge are noumerous not
very manute and globilar. — Soon after the seed are mature the
peduncle and foliage of this plant perishes, the ground becoms dry or
nearly so and the root increases in size and shortly become fit for use;
this happens about the middle of July when the nativs begin to collect it
for use which they continue untill the leaves of the plant obtain Some
Size in the Spring of the year. when they have Collected a considerable
quantity of these roots or 20 or 30 bushels which they readily do by means
of Sticks Sharpened at one end, they dig away the surface of the earth
forming a cercular concavity of 21/2 feet in the center and 10 feet in
diameter; they next collect a parcel of dry split wood with which they
cover this bason from the bottom perhaps a foot thick, they next collect a
parcel of Stones from 4 to 6 lb. weight which are placed on the dry wood;
fire is then Set to the wood which burning heats the Stones; when the fire
has subsided and the Stones are sufficiently heated which are nearly a red
heat, they are adjusted in such manner in the hole as to form as leavel a
Surface as possible, a small quantity of earth is Sprinkled over the
Stones, and a layer of grass about an inch thick is laid over the Stone;
the roots which have been previously devested of the black or outer coat
and radicles which rub off easily with the fingers, are now laid on in a
circular pile, are then covered with a layer of grass about 2 or 3 inches
thick; water is then thrown on the Summit of the pile and passes through
the roots and to the hot Stones at bottom; Some water is also pored around
the edges of the hole, and also find it's way to the hot Stones. they
cover the roots and grass over with earth to the debth of four inches and
then build a fire of dry wood all over the Connical mound which they
Continue to renew through the course of the night or for 10 or 12 hours,
after which it is Suffered to cool, 2 or three hours, when the earth and
grass are removed. and the roots thus Sweated are cooled with Steam or
taken out, and most commonly exposed to the Sun on Scaffolds untill they
become dry. when they are black and of a Sweet agreeable flavor. these
roots are fit for use when first taken from the pitt, are Soft of a
Sweetish taste and much the consistancy of a roasted onion; but if they
are Suffered to remain in bulk 24 hours after being cooked they Spoil. if
the design is to make bread or cakes of those roots they undergo a Second
preperation of baking being previously pounded after the first baking
between two Stones untill they are reduced to the consistancy of dough and
then rolled in grass in cakes of 8 or 10 pounds, are returned to the Sweat
intermixes with fresh roots in order that the steam may get freely to
those loaves of bread. when taken out the Second time the Indn. woman make
up this dough into cakes of various Shapes and Sizes, usually from 1/2 to
3/4 of an inch thick and expose it on sticks to dry in the Sun, or place
it over the smoke of their fires. — The bread thus prepared if kept
free from moisture will Sound for a great length of time. this bread or
the dryed roots are frequently eaten alone by the nativs without further
preperation, and when they have them in abundance they form an ingrediant
in almost every dish they prepare. this root is palateable but disagrees
with us in every shape we have ever used it. the nativs are extreemly fond
of this root and present it their visiters as a great treat. when we first
arrived at the Chopunnish last fall at this place our men who were half
Starved made So free a use of this root that it made them all Sick for
Several days after.
[Lewis, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806. All our hunters except Gibson returned about
noon; none of them had killed anything except Sheilds who brought with him
two deer. in the evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all
night. an indian visited us this evening and spent the night at our camp.
Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are now very warm
and the Musquetoes our old companions have become very troublesome. The
Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young men
would overtake us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the
Missouri. nothing interesting occurred in the course of this day. our camp
is agreeably situated in a point of timbered land on the eastern border of
an extensive level and beautiful) prarie which is intersected by several
small branches near the bank of one of which our camp is placed. the
quawmash is now in blume and from the colour of its bloom at a short
distance it resembles lakes of fine clear water, so complete is this
deseption that on first sight I could have swoarn it was water.
[Clark, June 12, 1806]
Thursday June 12th 1806. All our hunters except Gibson returned about
noon; none of them had killed any thing except Shields who brought with
him two deer. in the evening they resumed their hunt and remained out all
night. an Indian visited us this evening and Spent the night at our Camp.
Whitehouse returned with his horse at 1 P.M. the days are very worm and
the Musquetors our old Companions have become very troublesom.
The Cutnose informed us on the 10th before we left him that two young
Chiefs would overtake us with a view to accompany us to the Falls of the
Missouri and probably to the Seat of our Governmt. nothing interesting
occured in the course of this day. our camp is agreeably Situated in a
point of timbered land on the eastern borders of an extensive leave) and
butifull prarie which is intersected by Several Small branches near the
bank of one of which our Camp is placed. the quawmash is now in blume at a
Short distance it resembles a lake of fine clear water, So complete is
this deseption that on first Sight I could have Sworn it was water.
[Lewis, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806. Reubin Feilds and Willard were ordered to proceed
on our road to a small prarie 8 miles distant on this side of Collins's
Creek and there hunt until our arrival; they departed at 10 A.M. about
noon seven of our hunters returned with 8 deer; they had wounded several
others and a bear but did not get them. in the evening Labuish and
Cruzatte returned and reported that the buzzards had eaten up a deer which
they had killed butchered and hung up this morning. The indian who visited
us yesterday exchanged his horse for one of ours which had not perfectly
recovered from the operation of castration and received a small ax and a
knife to boot, he seemed much pleased with his exchange and set out
immediately to his village, as if fearfull that we would cansel the
bargain which is customary among themselves and deemed only fair. we
directed the meat to be cut thin and exposed to dry in the sun. we made a
digest of the Indian Nations West of the Rocky Mountains which we have
seen and of whom we have been repeated informed by those with whom we were
conversent. they amount by our estimate to 69,000
[Clark, June 13, 1806]
Friday June 13th 1806. Ordered Rubin Fields and Willard to proceed on to a
Small prarie in the Mountains about 8 miles and there hunt untill we
arrive the Set out at 10 A.M. Soon after they Set out all of our hunters
returned each with a deer except Shields who brought two in all 8 deer.
Labeech and P. Crusatt went out this morning killed a deer & reported
that the buzzds. had eate up the deer in their absence after haveing
butchered and hung it up. The indian who visited us yesterday exchanged
his horse with one of our party for a very indiferant one in which
exchange he rcived a Small ax a Knife &c. Soon after he had exchanged
he returned to his village well Satisfied. we caused the meat to be cut
thin and dried in the sun. I make a list of the Indian Nations their place
of residence, and probable number of Soles of each nation from estimation
and indian information &c.
[Lewis, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806. Sent our hunters out early this morning. Colter
killed a deer and brought it in by 10 A.M. the other hunters except
Drewyer returned early without having killed anything. Drewyer returned.
we had all our articles packed up and made ready for an early departure in
the morning. our horses were caught and most of them hubbled and otherwise
confined in order that we might not be detained. from hence to traveller's
rest we shall make a forsed march; at that place we shal probably remain
one or two days to rest ourselves and horses and procure some meat. we
have now been detained near five weeks in consequence of the snows; a
serious loss of time at this delightfull season for traveling. I am still
apprehensive that the snow and the want of food for our horses will prove
a serious imbarrassment to us as at least four days journey of our rout in
these mountains lies over hights and along a ledge of mountains never
intirely destitute of snow. every body seems anxious to be in motion,
convinced that we have not now any time to delay if the calculation is to
reach the United States this season; this I am detirmined to accomplish if
within the compass of human power.
[Clark, June 14, 1806]
Saturday June 14th 1806 Sent out Hunters this morning Colter killed a deer
and brought it in by 10 A M Drewyer did not return untill night he wounded
deer but could get none &c ____ neither of the other hunters killed
nothing. we had our articles packed up ready for a Start in the morning,
our horses Collected and hobble that they may not detain us in the
morning. we expect to Set out early, and Shall proceed with as much
expedition as possible over those Snowey tremendious mountains which has
detained us near five weeks in this neighbourhood waiting for the Snows to
melt Sufficent for us to pass over them. and even now I Shudder with the
expectation with great dificuelties in passing those Mountains, from the
debth of Snow and the want of grass Sufficient to Subsist our horses as
about 4 days we Shall be on the top of the Mountain which we have every
reason to beleive is Covered with Snow the greater part of the year.
[Lewis, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806. We had some little difficulty in collecting our
horses this morning they had straggled off to a greater distance than
usual. it rained very hard in the morning and after collecting our horses
we waited for it to abait, but as it had every appearance of a settled
rain we set out at 10 A.M. we passed a little prarie at the distance of
81/2 me. to which we had previously sent R. Feilds and Willard. we found
two deer which they had killed and hung up. at the distance of 21/2 miles
further we arrived at Collins's Creek where we found our hunters; they had
killed another deer, and had seen two large bear together the one black
and the other white. we halted at the creek, dined and graized our horses.
the rains have rendered the road very slippery insomuch that it is with
much difficulty our horses can get on several of them fell but sustained
no injury. after dinner we proceeded up the creek about 1/2 a mile,
passing it three times, thence through a high broken country to an
Easterly fork of the same creek about 101/2 miles and incamped near a
small prarie in the bottom land the fallen timber in addition to the
slippry roads made our march slow and extreemly laborious on our horses.
the country is exceedingly thickly timbered with long leafed pine, some
pitch pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arborvita of large size, and
a variety of firs. the undergrowth principally reed root from 6 to 10 feet
high with all the other speceis enumerated the other day. the soil is
good; in some plaices it is of a red cast like our lands in Virginia about
the S. W. mountains. Saw the speckled woodpecker, bee martin and log cock
or large woodpecker. found the nest of a humming bird, it had just began
to lay its eggs. — Came 22 Miles today.
[Clark, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806 Collected our horses early with the intention of
makeing an early Start. Some hard Showers of rain detained us untill ____
A M at which time we took our final departure from the quawmash fields and
proceeded with much dificuelty owing to the Situation of the road which
was very Sliprey, and it was with great dificulty that the loaded horses
Could assend the hills and Mountains they frequently Sliped down both
assending and decending those Steep hills. at g miles we passed through a
Small prarie in which was quawmash in this Prarie Reubin Fields &
Willard had killed and hung up two deer at 2 miles further we arrived at
the Camp of R. Fields & Willard on Collin's Creek, they arrived at
this Creek last evening and had killed another Deer near the Creek. here
we let our horses graze in a Small glade and took dinner. the rain Seased
and Sun Shown out. after detaining about 2 hours we proceeded on passing
the Creek three times and passing over Some ruged hills or Spurs of the
rocky Mountain, passing the Creek on which I encamped on the 17th Septr.
last to a Small glade of about 10 acres thickly Covered with grass and
quawmash, near a large Creek and encamped. we passed through bad fallen
timber and a high Mountain this evening. from the top of this Mountain I
had an extensive view of the rocky Mountains to the South and the
Columbian plains for great extent also the S W. Mountains and a range of
high Mountains which divides the waters of Lewis's & Clarks rivers and
seems to termonate nearly a West Cours. Several high pts. to the N &
N. E. Covered with Snow. a remarkable high rugd mountain in the forks of
Lewis's river nearly South and covered with Snow. The vally up the
Chopunnish river appears extensive tolerably leavel and Covered with
timber. The S W. Mountain is very high in a S S W. derection.
[Lewis, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806. We collected our horses very readily this morning,
took breakfast and set out at 6 A.M.; proceeded up the creek about 2 miles
through some handsom meadows of fine grass abounding with quawmash, here
we passed the creek & ascended a ridge which led us to the N. E. about
seven miles when we arrived at a small branch of hungry creek. the
difficulty we met with from the fallen timber detained us untill 11 oC
before we reached this place. here is a handsome little glade in which we
found some grass for our horses we therefore halted to let them graize and
took dinner knowing that there was no other convenient situation for that
purpose short of the glaids on hungry creek where we intended to encamp,
as the last probable place, at which we shall find a sufficient quantity
of grass for many days. this morning Windsor busted his rifle near the
muzzle. before we reached this little branch on which we dined we saw in
the hollows and N. hillsides large quatities of snow yet undisolved; in
some places it was from two to three feet deep. vegetation is
proportionably backward; the dogtooth violet is just in blume, the
honeysuckle, huckburry and a small speceis of white maple are begining to
put fourth their leaves; these appearances in this comparatively low
region augers but unfavourably with rispect to the practibility of passing
the mountains, however we determined to proceed, accordingly after taking
a haisty meal we set out and continued our rout though a thick wood much
obstructed with fallen timber, and intersepted by many steep ravines and
high hills. the snow has increased in quantity so much that the greater
part of our rout this evening was over the snow which has become
sufficiently firm to bear our horshes, otherwise it would have been
impossible for us to proceed as it lay in immence masses in some places 8
or ten feet deep. we found much difficulty in pursuing the road as it was
so frequently covered with snow. we arrived early in the evening at the
place that Capt. C. had killed and left the flesh of a horse for us last
September. here is a small glade in which there was some grass, not a
sufficiency for our horses but we thought it most advisable to remain here
all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find less
grass. the air is pleasent in the course of the day but becomes very cold
before morning notwithstanding the shortness of the nights. Hungry creek
is but small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect torrent; the
water is perfectly transparent and as cold as ice. the pitch pine, white
pine some larch and firs constite the timber; the long leafed pine extends
a little distance on this side of the main branch of Collins's creek, and
the white cedar not further than the branch of hungry creek on which we
dined. I killed a small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the tender
leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the fore part of the day I
observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the yelow flowering pea in
blume. there is an abundance of a speceis of anjelico in these mountains,
much stonger to the taist and more highly scented than that speceis common
to the U States. know of no particular virtue or property it possesses;
the natives dry it cut it in small peices which they string on a small
cord and place about their necks; it smells very pleasantly. we came 15
miles today.
[Clark, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806 Collected our horses early and Set Out 7 A M
proceeded on up the Creek through a gladey Swompy bottom with grass and
quawmash Crossed the Creek to the East and proceeded on through most
intolerable bad fallen timber over a high Mountain on which great quantity
of Snow is yet lying premisquissly through the thick wood, and in maney
places the banks of snow is 4 feet deep. we noned it or dined on a Small
Creek in a small open Vally where we found Some grass for our horses to
eate, altho Serounded by Snow no other Convenient Situation Short of the
glades on Hungery Creek where we intended to encamp, as the last probable
place, at which we Shall find a Sufficent quantity of grass for maney
days. This morning Windsor bursted his rifle near the Muzzle. Vigitation
is propotionable backward; the dog tooth Violet is just in blume, the
honeysuckle, huckleberry and a Small Species of white maple are beginning
to put foth their leaves, where they are clear of the Snow, those
appearances in this comparratively low region augers but unfavourably with
respect to the practibility of passing the Mountains, however we deturmine
to proceed, accordingly after takeing a hasty meal we Set out and
Continued our rout through a thick wood much obstructed with fallen
timber, and interupted by maney Steep reveins and hills which wer very
high. the Snow has increased in quantity So much that the great part of
our rout this evening was over the Snow which has become Sufficently firm
to bear our horses, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to
proceed as it lay in emince masses in Some places 8 or ten feet deep. We
found much dificulty in finding the road, as it was So frequently covered
with Snow. we arived early in the evening at the place I had killed and
left the flesh of a horse for the party in my rear last Septr. here is a
Small glade in which there is Some grass, not a Sufficency of our horses,
but we thought it adviseable to remain here all night as we apprehended if
we proceeded further we should find less grass. The air is pleasant in the
Course of the day, but becomes very cold before morning not withstanding
the Shortness of the night. Hungary Creek is but Small at this place but
is deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and
as Cold as ice. the titch pine, white pine Some Larch and firs consists
the timber, the long leafed pine extends but a Short distance on the Mts.
Capt. L. killed a Small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the tender
leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the forepart of the day I
observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the Yellow flowering pea in
blume. there is an abundance of a Species of Anjelico in the mountains
much Stronger to the taiste, and more highly Scented than that Species
common to the U States. I know of no particular virtue or property it
possesses the nativs dry it Cut it in Small pieces which they string on a
Small Cord and place about the necks; it Smells pleasently. we Come 15 Ms.
today.
[Lewis, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806. we collected our horses and set out early; we
proceeded down hungry creek about seven miles passing it twice; we found
it difficult and dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of its debth
and rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek by ascending a very
steep rocky and difficult hill. beyond this creek the road ascends the
mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges which divides the Waters
of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers. this hill or reather mountain we
ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 12
to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills with the fairest
exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's rigors; the air was
cold, my hands and feet were benumbed. we knew that it would require five
days to reach the fish wears at the entrance of Colt Creek, provided we
were so fortunate as to be enabled to follow the proper ridges of the
mountains to lead us to that place; short of that point we could not hope
for any food for our horses not even underwood itself as the whole was
covered many feet deep in snow. if we proceeded and should get bewildered
in these mountains the certainty was that we should loose all our horses
and consequently our baggage instruments perhaps our papers and thus
eminently wrisk the loss of the discoveries which we had already made if
we should be so fortunate as to escape with life. the snow boar our horses
very well and the travelling was therefore infinitely better that the
obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage
over last fall when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached
spots only. under these circumstances we conceived it madnes in this stage
of the expedition to proceed without a guide who could certainly conduct
us to the fish wears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly
sustain a journey of more than five days without food. we therefore came
to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet strong and
in good order and indevour to keep them so untill we could procure an
indian to conduct us over the snowey mountains, and again to proceed as
soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the
snows that if we remained untill it had desolved sufficiently for us to
follow the road that we should not be enabled to return to the United
States within this season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the
party to make a deposit for all the baggage which we had not immediate use
for, and also all the roots and bread of cows which they had except an
allowance for a few days to enable them to return to some place at which
we could subsist by hunting untill we procured a guide. we left our
instruments papers &c beleiving them safer here than to wrisk them on
horseback over the roads and creeks which we had passed. our baggage being
laid on scaffoalds and well covered we began our retrograde march at 1
P.M. having remained about 3 hours on this snowey mountain. we returned by
the rout we had come to hungry creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and
encamped. we had here more grass for our horses than the preceeding
evening yet it was but scant. the party were a good deel dejected tho not
so as I had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time since
we have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat
or make a retrograde march. it rained on us most of this evening.
[Clark, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806 We Collected our horses and Set out early; we
proceeded down hungary Creek about 7 miles passing it twice; we found it
dificuelt and dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of it's debth and
rapidity; we avoided two other passes of the creek, by assending a Steep
rockey and difficuelt hill. beyond this Creek the road assends the
mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges, which divides the waters
of the Kooskooske and Chopunnish Riv's. This mountain we ascended about 3
miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep
even on the South Side of the mountain. I was in front and Could only
prosue the derection of the road by the trees which had been peeled by the
nativs for the iner bark of which they Scraped and eate, as those pealed
trees were only to be found Scattered promisquisley, I with great
difficulty prosued the direction of the road one mile further to the top
of the mountain where I found the Snow from 12 to 15 feet deep, but fiew
trees with the fairest exposure to the Sun; here was Winter with all it's
rigors; the air was Cold my hands and feet were benumed. we knew that it
would require four days to reach the fish weare at the enterance of Colt
Creek, provided we were So fortunate as to be enabled to follow the poper
ridge of the mountains to lead us to that place; of this all of our most
expert woodsmen and principal guides were extreemly doubtfull; Short of
that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even under
wood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in Snow. if we
proceeded and Should git bewildered in those Mountains the Certainty was
that we Should lose all of our horses and consequencely our baggage
enstrements perhaps our papers and thus eventially resque the loss of our
discoveries which we had already made if we Should be So fortunate as to
escape with life. the Snow bore our horses very well and the traveling was
therefore infinately better than the obstruction of rocks and fallen
timber which we met with in our passage over last fall when the Snow lay
on this part of the ridge in detached spops only. under these
Circumstances we Conceived it madness in this stage of the expedition to
proceed without a guide who Could Certainly Conduct us to the fishwears on
the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly Sustain a journey of more
than 4 or 5 days without food. we therefore Come to the resolution to
return with our horses while they were yet strong and in good order, and
indeaver to keep them So untill we could precure an indian to conduct us
over the Snowey Mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could
precure Such a guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we
remained untill it had disolved Sufficiently for us to follow the road
that we Should not be enabled to return to the United States within this
Season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a
deposit of all the baggage which we had not imediate use for, and also all
the roots and bread of Cows which they had except an allowance for a fiew
days to enable them to return to Some place at which we could Subsist by
hunting untill we precured a guide. we left our instrements, and I even
left the most of my papers believing them Safer here than to Wrisk them on
horseback over the road, rocks and water which we had passed. our baggage
being laid on Scaffolds and well covered, we began our retragrade march at
1 P.M. haveing remain'd about three hours on this Snowey mountain. we
returned by the rout we had advanced to hungary Creek, which we assended
about 2 miles and encamped. we had here more grass for our horses than the
proceeding evening, yet it was but scant. the party were a good deel
dejected, tho not as much So as I had apprehended they would have been.
this is the first time Since we have been on this long tour that we have
ever been compelled to retreat or make a retragrade march. it rained on us
the most of this evening. on the top of the Mountain the Weather was very
fluctiating and uncertain snowed cloudy & fair in a few minets.
[Lewis, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806. This morning we had considerable difficulty in
collecting our horses they having straggled off to a considerable distance
in surch of food on the sides of the mountains among the thick timber; at
9 OCk. we collected them all except one of Drewyers and one of Sheildes;
we set out leaving Sheilds and LaPage to collect the two lost horses and
follow us. We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in
the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the
indians who had promised to accompany us or to procure a gude at all
events and rejoin us as soon as possible. we sent by them a rifle which we
offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct us to
traveller's rest; we also dirrected them if they found difficulty in
induciny any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns
to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. we
had not proceeded far this morning before Potts cut his leg very badly
with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veigns on the inner
side of the leg; I found much difficulty in stoping the blood which I
could not effect untill I applyed a tight bandage with a little cushon of
wood and tow on the veign below the wound. Colter's horse fel with him in
passing hungry creek and himself and horse were driven down the creek a
considerable distance rolling over each other among the rocks. he
fortunately escaped without injury or the loss of his gun. by 1 P.M. we
returned to the glade on the branch of hungry Creek where we had dined on
the 16th inst. here we again halted and dined. as there was much
appearance of deer about this place we left R. and J. Feilds with
directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and to
join us in the evening at the meadows of Collin's creek where we intend
remaining tomorrow in order to rest our horses and hunt. after dinner we
proceeded on to Collin's Creek and encamped in a pleasant situation at the
upper part of the meadows about 2 ms. above our encampment of the 15th
inst. we sent out several hunters but they returned without having killed
anything. they saw a number of salmon in the creek and shot at them
several times without success. we directed Colter and Gibson to fix each
of them a gigg in the morning and indevour to take some of the salmon. the
hunters saw much fresh appearance of bear but very little of deer. we hope
by means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to be
enabled to subsist untill our guide arrives without the necessity of
returning to the quawmash flats. there is a great abundance of good food
here to sustain our horses.
[Clark, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806 This morning we had considerable dificuelty in
collecting our horses they haveing Strageled of to a considerable distance
in Serch of food on the Sides of the mountains among the thick timber, at
9 oClock we Collected them all except 2 one of Shields & one of
Drewyer's. we Set out leaving Shields and LePage to collect the two lost
horses and follow us.
We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the plains
beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the Indians who
promised to accompany us, or to precure a guide at all events and rejoin
us as Soon as possible. We Sent by them a riffle which we offered as a
reward to any of them who would engage to conduct us to Clarks river at
the entrance of Travellers rest Creek; we also directed them if they found
difficuelty in induceing any of them to accompany us to offer the reward
of two other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls
of Missouri. we had not proceeded far this morning before J. Potts cut his
leg very badly with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veins
on the iner side of the leg; Colters horse fell with him in passing
hungary creek and himself and horse were driven down the Creek a
considerable distance roleing over each other among the rocks. he
fortunately escaped without much injurey or the loss of his gun. he lost
his blanket. at 1 P. M we returned to the glade on a branch of hungary
Creek where we had dined on the 16th instant. here we again halted and
dined. as there was some appearance of deer about this place we left J.
& R Field with directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at
this place and join us in the evening in the Meadows on Collin's Creek
where we intended to remain tomorrow in order to restour horses and hunt.
after dinner we proceeded on to the near fork of Collins Creek and
encamped in a pleasant Situation at the upper part of the Meadows about 2
miles above our encampment of the 15th inst. we Sent out Several hunters
but they returned without having killed any thing-. they saw a number of
large fish in the Creek and Shot at them Several times without Suckcess.
we Gibson and Colter to fix each of themselves a gigg in the morning and
indeaver to take Some of those fish. the hunters Saw much fresh appearance
of Bear, but very little deer Sign. we hope by the means of the fish
together with what deer and bear we can kill to been abled to Subsist
untill our guide arives without the necessaty of returning to the quawmash
flats. there is great abundance of good food here to Sustain our horses.
we are in flattering expectations of the arrival of two young chiefs who
informed us that they intended to accompany us to the U. States, and
Should Set out from their village in 9 nights after we left them on the
19th inst. if they Set out at that time Drewyer & Shannon will meet
them, and probably join us on the 20th or 21st-. Musquetors Troublesome.
[Lewis, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806. Our hunters were out very early this morning,
they returned before noon with one deer only. the Fishermen had been more
unsuccessfull, they returned without a single fish and reported they could
find but few and those they had tryed to take in vain. they had broke both
their giggs which were of indian fabrication made of bone. I happened to
have a pointed peice of iron in my pouch which answered by cuting in two
peices to renew boath giggs. they took one fish this evening which proved
to be a salmon trout much to our mortification, for we had hoped that they
were the salmon of this spring arrival and of course fat and fine. these
trout are of the red kind they remain all winter in the upper parts of the
rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this season. At 2 P.M. J &
R Feilds arived with two deer; John Sheilds and LaPage came with them,
they had not succeeded in finding their horses. late in the evening
Frazier reported that my riding horse that of Capt Clark and his mule had
gone on towards the Quawmash flatts and that he had pursued their tracks
on the road about 21/2 miles. we determined to send out all the hunters in
the morning in order to make a fair experiment of the pactability of our
being able to subsist at this place and if not we shall move the day after
to the Quawmash flatts. the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome
to us since our arrival at this place particularly in the evening.
Cruzatte brought me several large morells which I roasted and eat without
salt pepper or grease in this way I had for the first time the true taist
of the morell which is truly an insippid taistless food. our stock of salt
is now exhausted except two quarts which I have reserved for my tour up
Maria's River and that I left the other day on the mountain.
[Clark, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806 This morning early Collins Labeesh & Crusat
turned out to hunt, and Gibson & Colter fixed two Indian giggs and
went in Serch of fish in the Creek. I took my gun and walked up the Creek
about 4 Miles Saw some bear Sign and one fish only. Gibson killed only one
fish which we found to be the Salmon Trout of the dark Species. this fish
was of the common Size pore, and indifferently flavoured. Labeesh killed
one Deer neither of the others killed any thing. about 1 P.M. Jo. & R
Fields Shields & LaPage came up. Reubin &Joseph Fields brought two
Deer which R. had killed in the Small glade on a branch of Hungary Creek
where we had left them yesterday. Shields & LaPage did not find the
two horses which we lost yesterday morning. they report that they hunted
with great diligence in the vicinity of our camp of the 17th without
suckcess. in my walk of this day up the Creek I observed a great abundance
of fine grass sufficient to Sustain our horses any length of time we chose
to Stay at this place. Several glades of quawmash. the S W. Sides of the
hills is fallen timber and burnt woods, the N. E. Sides of the hills is
thickly timbered with lofty pine, and thick under growth This evening
Several Salmon trout were Seen in the Creek, they hid themselves under the
banks of the Creek which jutted over in Such a manner as to secure them
from the Stroke of our giggs nets and spears which were made for the
purpose of taking those Salmon trout. we concluded to delay at this place
another day with a view to give time to the two young Chiefs to arrive in
case they set out on the 19th inst. as they informed us they Should they
will have Sufficient time to join us tomorrow or early the next day.
Should we get a guide from this place it will Save us two days march
through some of the worst road through those Mountains, crouded with
fallin timber mud holes and steep hills &c. we directed all the
hunters to turn out early and kill something for us to live on &c.
Musquetors troublesom
[Lewis, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806. Our hunters set out early this morning; most of
them returned before noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear the tallons of
which were remarkably short broad at their base and sharply pointed this
was of the speceis which the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. it was in very low
order and the flesh of the bear in this situation is much inferior to lean
venison or the flesh of poor Elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in the
evening with one deer which the former had killed. we also caught seven
salmon trout in the course of the day. the hunters assured us that their
greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one
or two days longer from the great scarcity of game and the difficult
access of the country, the under brush being very thick and great
quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to
remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer and Shannon we
determined to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts and
indeavour to lay in another stock of meat for the mountains, our former
stock being now nearly exhausted as well as what we have killed on our
return. by returning to the quawmash flatts we shall sooner be informed
whether or not we can procure a guide to conduct us through the mountains;
should we fail in procuring one, we have determined to wrisk a passage on
the following plan immediately, because should we wait much longer or
untill the snow desolves in such manner as to enable us to follow the road
we cannot hope to reach the United States this winter; this is that Capt.
C. or myself shall take four of our most expert woodsmen with three or
four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance taking a
plentiful) supply of provision. for this party to follow the road by the
marks which the baggage of the indians has made in many places on the
sides of the trees by rubing against them, and to blaize the trees with a
tomahawk as they proceeded. that after proceeding two days in advance of
hungary creek two of those men would be sent back to the main party who by
the time of their return to Hungary Creek would have reached that place.
the men so returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the
probable success of the preceeding party in finding the road and of their
probable progress, in order that should it be necessary, the main party by
the delay of a day or two at hungary creek, should give the advance time
to mark the road through before the main party could overtake them, and
thus prevent delay on the part of the rout where no food is to be obtained
for our horses. should it so happen that the advance could not find the
road by the marks on the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole
of then would return to the main party. in which case we wold bring back
our baggage and attempt a passage over these mountains through the country
of the Shoshones further to the South by way of the main S. Westerly fork
of Lewis's river and Madison or Gallatin's rivers, where from the
information of the Chopunnish there is a passage which at this season of
the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and
would require at least a month in it's performance. The Shoshones informed
us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the
mountains in that quarter but represented the difficulties arrising from
steep high and rugged mountains and also an extensive and barren plain
which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficult than the
rout by which we came. from the circumstance of the Chopunnish being at
war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the country on this side
of the Mountains through which the road passes I think it is highly
probable that they cannot be well informed with rispect to the road, and
further, had there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the
East fork of Lewis's river who knew them both would not have recommended
that by which we came to this country. the travelling in the mountains on
the snow at present is very good, the snow bears the horses perfictly; it
is a firm coase snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold
without sliping much; the only dificulty is finding the road, and I think
the plan we have devised will succeed even should we not be enabled to
obtain a guide. Although the snow may be stated on an average at 10 feet
deep yet arround the bodies of the trees it has desolved much more than in
other parts not being generally more than one or two feet deep immediately
at the roots of the trees, and; of course the marks left by the rubing of
the indian baggage against them is not concealed. the reason why the snow
is comparitively so shallow about the roots of the trees I presume
proceeds as well from the snow in falling being thrown off from their
bodies by their thick and spreading branches as from the reflection of the
sun against the trees and the warmth which they in some measure acquire
from the earth which is never frozen underneath these masses of snow.
Bratton's horse was also discovered to be absent this evening. I presume
he has also returned to the flatts.
[Clark, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806 The hunters turned out early in different
directions, our guiggers also turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a
pole, a Scooping nett and a Snar made of horse. near the ford of the Creek
in a deep hole we killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in
the Creek above in the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear
which was very meagure. the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short
broad at their base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the
Chopunnish call Yahkar. as it was in very low order the flesh was
indifferent. Labiesh & Crusat returned late in the evening with one
deer which the former had killed. the hunters assured us that, their
greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here more than one
or two days longer, from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt
access of the Country, the under brush being very thick and great
quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to
remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we
determine to return in the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and
endeaver to lay in another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former
Stock now being nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our
rout. by returning to the quawmash flatts we Shall Sooner be informed
wheather or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the
Mountains; Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a
passage on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much
longer, or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to
follow the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this
is that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men
with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance takeing
a plentiful Supply of provisions. for this party to follow the road by the
mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage on the Sides
of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the trees with a
tomahawk as they proceed. that after proceeding two days in advance of
Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the party who by the
time of their return to hungary Creek would have reached that place. the
men So returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the probable
Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding the road and of their probable
progress, in order that Should it be necessary, the main party by a delay
of a day or two a hungary Creek, should give the advance time to make the
road through before the main party could overtake them, and thus prevent
delay on that part of the rout where no food is to be obtained for our
horses. Should it So happen that the advance Should not find the road by
the marks of the trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them
would return to the main party. in which Case we would bring back our
baggage and attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of
the Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of
Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the
information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season of
the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and
would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones informed
us when we first met with them that there was a passage across the
Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties arriseing from
Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and barren plain which
was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficuelt than the rout
by which we Came. from the Circumstance of the Chopunnish being at war
with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the Country on this side of
the Mountains through which the road passes, I think it is highly probable
they cannot be well informed with respect to the road, and further, had
there been a better road in that quarter the Shoshones on the East fork of
Lewis's river who knew them boath would not have recommend'd that by which
we came to this country. The travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at
present is very good, the Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm
coase Snow without a crust, and the horses have good foot hold without
slipping much; the only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the
plan we have devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain
a guide. altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet
arround the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other
parts, not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at
the roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the
Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow is
comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, 1 prosume proceeds
as well from the Snow in falling being thrown off from their bodies by the
thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of the Sun against
the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure acquire from the earth
which is never frozen underneath those masses of Snow. 4 of our horses are
absent.
[Lewis, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806. We collected our horses early set out on our
return to the flatts. we all felt some mortification in being thus
compelled to retrace our steps through this tedious and difficult part of
our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber
which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses.
one of Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the
distemper very badly I fear he is to be of no further service to us. an
excellent horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in
jumping over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no
further service to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians
who were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the
three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash
grounds. these indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the creek
where we halted to dine and graize our horses at the same place I had
halted and remained all night with the party on the ____ of Septembr last.
as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that they had
seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill the
expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not returned
with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed these indians
to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on the return of
Drewyer and Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and
accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the bushes at no
great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far as the little
prarie about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they halted with their
horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at
least two nights. they had four supenumery horses with them. we sent on
four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to take an evenings hunt; they
so far succeeded as to kill one deer. we left Reubin and J. Feilds at the
Creek where we dined together with Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that
place untill our return. at seven in the evening we found ourselves once
more at our old encampment where we shall anxiously await the return of
Drewyer and Shannon.
[Clark, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out on our
return to the flatts. we all felt Some mortification in being thus
compelled to retrace our Steps through this tedious and difficuelt part of
our rout, obstructed with brush and innumerable logs and fallen timber
which renders the traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses.
one of Thompsons horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper
badly. I fear he is to be of no further Survice to us. an excellent horse
of Cruzatt's snagged himself So badly in the groin in jumping over a
parcel of fallen timber that he will eventually be of no further Survice
to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who were on their
way over the mountains, they had brought with them the three horses and
the Mule which had left us and returned to the quawmash ground. those
indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the Creek where we halted
to dine and graze our horses. as well as we Could understand the indians
they informed us they had Seen Geo Drewyer & Shannon, and that they
would not return untill the expiration of two days. the cause why Drewyer
& Shannon did not return with these men we are at a loss to account
for. we pressed those indians to remain with us and conduct us over the
Mountains on the return of Drewyer & Shannon. they consented to remain
two nights for us and accordingly deposited their Stores of roots &
Bread in the bushes at no great distance and after Dinner returned with
us, as far as the little prarie about 2 Miles distance from the Creek,
here they halted with their horses and informed us they would remain
untill we overtook them or at least 2 nights. they had four Supernoumery
horses with them. We Sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to
make an evening hunt; they So far Suckceeded as to kill one deer. We left
R. and Jo. Fields at the Creek where we dined, and Sergt. Gass in order to
hunt about that place untill our return. at 7 in the evening we found
ourselves once more at our old encampment where we Shall anxiously await
the return of Drewyer & Shannon.
[Lewis, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806. this morning by light all hands who could hunt were
sent out; the result of this days perfomance was greater than we had even
hoped for. we killed eight deer and three bear. we dispatched Whitehouse
to the Kooskooske near our old encampment above Collins's Creek in order
to procure some Salmon which we have understood the natives are now taking
in considerable quantities near that place. we gave Whitehouse a few beads
which Capt. C. had unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat pockets to
purchase the fish. nothing further worthy of notice occurred in the course
of this day. the last evening was cool but the day was remarkably pleasent
with a fine breize from the N. W. neither Drewyer Shannon nor Whitehouse
returned this evening. — Potts's legg is inflamed and very painfull to
him. we apply a poltice of the roots of Cows.
[Clark, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806 This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were
Sent out, the result of the days performance was greater than we had even
hopes for. we killed eight Deer and three Bear. we despatched whitehouse
to the Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to
precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in
considerable quantities near that place. we gave whitehouse a fiew beeds
which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to purchase the
fish. nothing further occured in the Course of this day. the last evening
was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a fine breeze from the
N. W. neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse returned this evening. — Potts
legg is inflamed and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the root
of Cowes
[Lewis, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806. Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met
with some difficulty in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians
who had promised to wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought
it most advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with
a vew if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in
the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt. Gass,
R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever rout
they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as they
proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the party. the
hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does now having
their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner kill them
with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so much on
horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our hunters killed 4
deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and Whitehouse returned.
Drewyer brought with him three indians who had consented to accompany us
to the falls of the Missouri for the compensation of two guns. one of
those men is the brother of the cutnose and the other two are the same who
presented Capt. Clark and myself each with a horse on a former occasion at
the Lodge of the broken arm. these are all young men of good character and
much respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near
camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily
obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if
possible. — Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.
[Clark, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806 Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that
they had met with Some dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that
the two indians who had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out
today, we thought it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to
them this morning with a view if possible to detain them a day or two
longer; and directed that in the event of their not being able to detain
the indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should
accompany the Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest
and blaize the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill
our arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this
morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them up,
and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the indians
pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood that it is
very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M. Shannon Drewyer
& Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with them three
indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for
the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the brother of the Cutnose
and the other two are the Same who presented Capt L. and myself with a
horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the broken arm, and the two who
promised to pursue us in nine nights after we left the river, or on the
19th inst. Those are all young men of good Charrector and much respected
by their nation. those men infor us that thir nation as well as the
Wallar-wallars have made peace with the Shoshones agreeable to our late
advice to them. they also inform us that they have heard by means of the
Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river that the Big bellies of Fort de
Prarie Killed great numbers of the Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we
met with last fall on the East fork of Lewis's river and high up the West
fork of Clarks river &c.
We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a
manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being deturmined
to make an early Start if possible-. — Colter one of our hunters did
not return this evening
[Lewis, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set
out accompanyed by our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having
killed a bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we
did not think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins's
Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in
pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins's Creek two
hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our rout
to Fish Creek a branch of Collins's Creek where we had lain on the 19th
& 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians whom
they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival; R. &
J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at Collins's
Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians insomuch that they
had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of hungary Creek at which
we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had fine grass for our
horses this evening.
[Clark, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806 We collected our horses early this morning and Set
out accompanied by our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing
killed a Bear, which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we
did not think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's
Creek where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in
pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two hours
before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we Continued our
rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we had lain the 15th
18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass, Wiser and the two
indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at that place untill our
arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer only while they lay
at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal to the indians
insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on to the branch of
hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we had
fine grass for our horses this evening.
[Lewis, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806. last evening the indians entertained us with
seting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry lims near
their bodies which when set on fire creates a very suddon and immence
blaze from bottom to top of those tall trees. they are a beatifull object
in this situation at night. this exhibition reminded me of a display of
fireworks. the natives told us that their object in seting those trees on
fire was to bring fair weather for our journey. — We collected our
horses readily and set out at an early hour this morning. one of our
guides complained of being unwell, a symptom which I did not much like as
such complaints with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning
any enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left them at our
encampment and they promised to pursue us in a few hours. at 11 A.M. we
arrived at the branch of hungary creek where we found R. & J. Feilds.
they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides
overtook us. at this place I met with a plant the root of which the
shoshones eat. it is a small knob root a good deel in flavor an
consistency like the Jerusalem Artichoke. it has two small oval smooth
leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the root.
the scape is only about 4 inches long is round and smooth. the roots of
this plant formed one of those collections of roots which Drewyer took
from the Shoshones last summer on the head of Jefferson's river. after
dinner we continued our rout to hungary Creek and encamped about one and a
half miles below our encampment of the 16th inst. — the indians
continued with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to their
engagement. I gave the sik indian a buffaloe robe he having no other
covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elkskin without the hair.
Drewyer and Sheilds were sent on this morning to hungry Creek in surch of
their horses which they fortunately recovered.
[Clark, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806 last evening the indians entertained us with
Setting the fir trees on fire. they have a great number of dry limbs near
their bodies which when Set on fire create a very Sudden and eminence
blaize from bottom to top of those tail trees. they are a boutifull object
in this Situation at night. this exhibition remide me of a display of
firewoks. the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on
fire was to bring fair weather for our journey-. We Collected our horses
and Set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides Complained of
being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints with
an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any enterprize with
which he is not well pleased. we left 4 of those indians at our encampment
they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours. at 11 A.M. we arrived at the
branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo. & R. Fields. they had not
killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides overtook us. at
this place the squaw Collected a parcel of roots of which the Shoshones
Eat. it is a Small knob root a good deel in flavour and Consistency like
the Jerusolem artichoke. it has two Small Smooth oval leaves placed
opposit on either Side of the peduncle just above the root. the scope is
only about 4 inches long is round and Smooth. the roots of this plant
forms one of the Colection of roots which D-. took from the Shoshones last
fall on the head of Jefferson river. after dinner we continued our rout to
hungary creek and encamped about one and a half miles below our Encampment
of the 16th inst. — The indians all continue with us and I beleive are
disposed to be faithfull to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick
indian a Small buffalow robe which he brought from the Missouri, this
indian having no other Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk
Skin without the hair-. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to
hungary Creek in serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered. — -came
____ miles to daye.
[Lewis, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out
after an early breakfast or at 6 A.M. we passed by the same rout we had
travelled on the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey
mountain to the N. E. of hungary Creek. here we necessarily halted about 2
hours to arrange our baggage and prepare our loads. we cooked and made a
haisty meal of boiled venison and mush of cows. the snow has subsided near
four feet since the 17th inst. we now measured it accurately and found
from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the 17th
that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the common
debth though it is deeper still in some places. it is now generally about
7 feet. on our way up this mountain about the border of the snowey region
we killed 2 of the small black pheasant and a female of the large
dommanicker or speckled pheasant, the former have 16 fathers in their tail
and the latter 20 while the common pheasant have only 18. the indians
informed us that neither of these speceis drumed; they appear to be very
silent birds for I never heared either of them make a noise in any
situation. the indians haistened to be off and informed us that it was a
considerable distance to the place which they wished to reach this evening
where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we set out with our
guides who lead us over and along the steep sides of tremendious mountains
entirely covered with snow except about the roots of the trees where the
snow had sometimes melted and exposed a few square feet of the earth. we
ascended and decended severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the
dividing ridge between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no
stream of water. late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves
and the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped
on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring. having passed
a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805 here we found an abundance of fine
grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an untimbered
mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from appearance had
been desolved about 10 days. the grass was young and tender of course and
had much the appearance of the greenswoard. there is a great abundance of
a speceis of bear-grass which grows on every part of these mountains it's
growth is luxouriant and continues green all winter but the horses will
not eat it. soon after we had encamped we were overtaken by a Chopunnish
man who had pursued us with a view to accompany me to the falls of the
Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men whom we met on the
21st and detained several days are going on a party of pleasure mearly to
the Oote-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the
Tush-she-pah nation who reside on Clark's river in the neighbourhood of
traveller's rest. one of our guides lost 2 of his horses, which he
returned in surch of; he found them and rejoined us a little before dark.
[Clark, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806 We collected our horses and Set out early and
proceeded on Down hungary Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of
the mountain where we deposited our baggage on the 17th inst. found every
thing Safe and as we had left them. the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches
deep on the top of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho perfectly hard and
firm. we made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on
snow 7 feet deep at least. after dinner we packed up and proceeded on.
about the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents
and a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former
have 16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent
have 18. the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed; they
appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make any
noise. the Indians hastened us off and informed us that it was a
considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening where
there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our guides who
led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious Mountains entirely
covered with Snow except about the roots of the trees where the Snow was
partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of earth. we assended and
decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping on the dividing ridge of
the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no Stream of water. late
in the evening much to the Satisfaction of ourselves and the Comfort of
the horses we arived at the desired Spot and Encamped on the Steep Side of
a Mountain Convenient to a good Spring. here we found an abundance of fine
grass for our horses. this Situation was the Side of an untimbered
mountain with a fair Southern aspect where the Snow from appearance had
been disolved about 10 days, the grass was young and tender of course and
had much the appearance of the Green Swoard. there is a great abundance of
Species of bear grass which grows on every part of those Mountains, its
growth is luxurient and continues green all winter but the horses will not
eate it. Soon after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man
who had pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of
Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men we met on the 21st
and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly to the
Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah
Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of the Mouth of
Travelers rest. one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he returned in
Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark. all of the Indians
with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday with a violent
pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most violently
[Lewis, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806. We collected our horses early and set out. the road
still continued on the heights of the same dividing ridge on which we had
traveled yesterday for nine miles or to our encampment of the 18th of
September last. about one mile short of this encampment on an elivated
point we halted by the request of the Indians a few minutes and smoked the
pipe. on this eminence the natives have raised a conic mound of stones of
6 or eight feet high and on it's summit erected a pine pole of 15 feet
long from hence they informed us that when passing over with their familes
some of the men were usually sent on foot by the fishery at the entrance
of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again met the main party at the
Quawmash glade on the head of the Kooskooske river. from this place we had
an extensive view of these stupendous mountains principally covered with
snow like that on which we stood; we were entirely surrounded by those
mountains from which to one unacquainted with them it would have seemed
impossible ever to have escaped; in short without the assistance of our
guides I doubt much whether we who had once passed them could find our way
to Travellers rest in their present situation for the marked trees on
which we had placed considerable reliance are much fewer and more
difficult to find than we had apprehended. these fellows are most
admireable pilots; we find the road wherever the snow has disappeared
though it be only for a few hundred paces. after smoking the pipe and
contemplating this seene sufficient to have damp the sperits of any except
such hardy travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the
distance of 3 ms. decended a steep mountain and passed two small branches
of the Chopunnish river just above their forks and again ascended the
ridge on which we passed several miles and at a distance of 7 ms. arrived
at our encampment of September near which we passed 3 small branches of
the Chopunnish river and again ascended to the dividing ridge on which we
continued nine miles when the ridge became lower and we arrived at a
situation very similar to our encampment of the last evening tho the ridge
was somewhat higher and the snow had not been so long desolved of course
there was but little grass. here we encamped for the night having traveled
28 miles over these mountains without releiving the horses from their
packs or their having any food. the indians inform us that there is an
abundance of the mountain sheep or what they call white buffaloe. we saw
three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a
shoot at them. we also saw several tracks of those animals in the snow.
the indians inform that there is great abundance of Elk in the vally about
the Fishery on the Kooskooske River. our meat being exhausted we issued a
pint of bears oil to a mess which with their boiled roots made an
agreeable dish. Potts's legg which has been much swolen and inflamed for
several days is much better this evening and gives him but little pain. we
applyed the pounded roots and leaves of the wild ginger & from which
he found great relief. — neare our encampment we saw a great number of
the yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was just as
forward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of may.
[Clark, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806 We collected our horses early and Set out. the road
Still Continue on the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had
traveled yesterday for 9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last.
about 1 m. Short of the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides
a fiew minits on an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe on this eminance the
nativs have raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected
a pine pole of 15 feet long. from hence they informed us that when passing
over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by the
fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again
meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske river. from
this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous Mountains
principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we were
entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted with
them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have escaped, in short
without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much whether we who had once
passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their present
Situation for the marked trees on which we had placed Considerable
reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find than we had
apprehended. those indians are most admireable pilots; we find the road
wherever the Snow has disappeared tho it be only for a fiew paces. after
haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene Sufficient to have
dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy travellers as we have
become, we continued our march and at the dist. Of 3 m. decended a Steep
mountain and passed two Small branches of the Chopunnish river just above
their fok, and again assend the ridge on which we passed. at the distance
of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of 16th Septr. last passed 3 Small
branches passed on a dividing ridge rugid and we arived at a Situation
very Similar to our Situation of last night tho the ridge was Somewhat
higher and the Snow had not been So long disolved of course there was but
little grass. here we Encamped for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over
these mountains without releiveing the horses from their packs or their
haveing any food. the Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the
Mountain Sheep, or what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains. we
Saw 3 black tail or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot
at them. we also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow. our Meat
being exhosted we issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their
boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much
Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and
givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild
ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw great
numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this plant was
just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on the 10th of
May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday and last night.
[Lewis, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806. This morning we collected our horses and set out
as usual after an early breakfast. several of our horses had straggled to
a considersble distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to
find them in good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the
indians informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there
was good food for them. we continued our rout along the dividing ridge
passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed our
encampment of the 16 of September last, one and a half miles further we
passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the wright
immediately on the dividing ridge about eleven O'clock we arrived at an
untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just above the
fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as the Indians
had informed us. as our horses were very hungary and much fatiegued and
from information no other place where we could obtain grass for them
within the reach of this evening's travel we determined to remain at this
place all night having come 13 miles only. the water was distant from our
encampment we therefore melted snow and used the water principally. the
whole of the rout of this day was over deep snows. we find the traveling
on the snow not worse than without it, as the easy passage it gives us
over rocks and fallen timber fully compensate for the inconvenience of
sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than
without it. the snow sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and
firm and seems to be formed of the larger and more dense particles of the
snow; the surface of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after
the sun shines on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense
as to prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold. we killed a small
black pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the
mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir. there is a speceis
of small whortleburry common to the hights of the mountains, and a speceis
of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the
latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is generally under the snow
or mearly making it's appearance as it confined to the upper parts of the
highest mountains.
[Clark, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806 This morning we Colected our horses and Set out as
usial after an early brackfast. we continued our rout along the dividig
ridge over knobs & through deep hollows passed our encampmt of the 14
Sept. last near the forks of the road leaving the one on which we had Came
one leading to the fishery to our right imediately on the dividing ridge.
at 12 oClock we arived at an untimberd side of a mountain with a southern
aspect just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our
horses as the guids had informed us. as our horses were hungary and much
fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain grass
for them within the reach of this evening's travel we deturmined to remain
at this place all night haveing come 13 m. only. the water was distant
from our Encampment we therefore melted Snow and used the water. the whole
of the rout of this day was over deep Snow. we find the travelling on the
Snow not worse than without it, as easy passage it givs us over rocks and
fallen timber fully compensates for the inconvenience of sliping, certain
it is that we travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the
Snow Sinks from 2 to 3 inches with a horse, is course and firm and seems
to be formed of the larger particles the surface of the snow sees to be
rather harder in the morning than after the Sun Shines on it a fiew hours,
but it is not in that situation so dense as to prevent the horses from
obtaining good foothold. I killed a Small black pheasant; this bird is
generally found in the Snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the
leaves of the pine & fir. there is a Species of Small huckleberry
common to the hights of the mountains, and a Species of grass with a broad
succulent leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are
very fond, but as yet it is generally under the Snow, or mearly makeing
it's appearance as it confined to the upper part of the highest mountains.
[Lewis, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806. We collected our horses early this morning and set
out, having previously dispatched Drewyer and R. Fields to the warm
springs to hunt. we pursued the hights of the ridge on which we have been
passing for several days; it terminated at the distance of 5 ms. from our
encampment and we decended to, and passed the main branch of the
Kooskooske 11/2 ms. above the entrance of Quawmash creek wid falls in on
the N. E. side. when we decended from this ridge we bid adieu to the snow.
near the river we fund a deer which the hunters had killed and left us.
this was a fortunate supply as all our oil was now exhausted and we were
reduced to our roots alone without salt. the Kooskooske at this place is
about 30 yds. wide and runs with great volocity. the bed as all the
mountain streams is composed of smooth stones. beyond the river we
ascended a very steep acclivity of a mountain about 2 Miles and arrived at
it's summit where we found the old road which we had pased as we went out,
coming in on our wright. the road was now much plainer and more beaten,
which we were informed happened from the circumstance of the
Ootslashshoots visiting the fishery frequently from the vally of Clark's
river; tho there was no appearance of there having been here this spring.
at noon we arrived at the quawmas flatts on the Creek of the same name and
halted to graize our horses and dine having traveled 12 miles. we passed
our encampment of the 13th of September at 10 ms. where we halted there is
a pretty little plain of about 50 acres plentifully stocked with quawmash
and from apperances this fromes one of the principal stages or encampments
of the indians who pass the mountains on this road. we found after we had
halted that one of our packhorses with his load and one of my riding
horses were left behind. we dispatched J. Feilds and Colter in surch of
the lost horses. after dinner we continued our march seven miles further
to the warm springs where we arrived early in the evening and sent out
several hunters, who as well as R Fields and Drewyer returned
unsuccessful; late in the evening Colter and J. Fields joined us with the
lost horses and brought with them a deer which they had killed, this
furnished us with supper. these warm springs are situated at the base of a
hill of no considerable hight on the N side and near the bank of
travellers rest creek which at that place is about 10 yards wide. these
springs issue from the bottoms and through the interstices of a grey
freestone rock, the rock rises in iregular masy clifts in a circular range
arround the springs on their lower side. immediately above the springs on
the creek there is a handsome little quamas plain of about 10 acres. the
prinsipal spring is about the temperature of the warmest baths used at the
hot springs in Virginia. In this bath which had been prepared by the
Indians by stoping the run with stone and gravel, I bathed and remained in
19 minutes, it was with dificulty I could remain thus long and it caused a
profuse sweat two other bold springs adjacent to this are much warmer,
their heat being so great as to make the hand of a person smart extreemly
when immerced. I think the temperature of these springs about the same as
the hotest of the hot springs in Virginia. both the men and indians amused
themselves with the use of a bath this evening. I observed that the
indians after remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it ran
and plunged themselves into the creek the water of which is now as cold as
ice can make it; after remaining here a few minutes they returned again to
the warm bath, repeating this transision several times but always ending
with the warm bath. I killed a small black pheasant near the quamash
grounds this evening which is the first I have seen below the snowy
region. I also saw some young pheasants which were about the size of
Chickens of 3 days old. saw the track of two bearfoot indians who were
supposed to be distressed rufugees who had fled from the Minnetares.
[Clark, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806 We colected our horses and Set out haveing
previously dispatched Drewyer & R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt.
we prosued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing for
several days; it termonated at the distance of 5 M. from our encampment,
and we decended to & passed the main branch of Kooskooke 11/2 Ms.
above the enterance of Glade Creek which falls in on the N. E. Side. we
bid adew to the Snow. near the River we found a Deer which the hunters had
killed and left us. this was a fortunate Supply as all our bears oil was
now exhosted, and we were reduced to our roots alone without Salt. the
river is 30 yds wide and runs with great velossity. the bead as all the
Mountain streams is composed of Smooth Stone. beyond this river we
assended a Steep Mountain about 2 Miles to it's Sumit where we found the
old road which we had passed on as we went out. comeing in on our right,
the road was now much plainer and much beaten. at noon we arived at the
quawmash flatts on Vally Creek and halted to graize our horses and dined
haveing traveled 12 Miles here is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres
plentifully Stocked with quawmash and from appearance this forms one of
the principal Stages of the indians who pass the mountains on this road.
we found that one of our pack horss with his load and one of Capt. L.s.
horses were missing we dispatched Jo. Field & Colter in serch of the
lost horse's. after dinner we continued our march 7 ms further to the worm
Springs where we arrived early in the evening, and Sent out Several
hunters, who as well as R. Field & Drewyer returned unsuksessfull;
late in the evening Jo. Field & Colter joined us with the lost horses
and brought with them a Deer which J. F. had killed, this furnished us
with a Supper.
Those Worm or Hot Springs are Situated at the base of a a hill of no
considerable hight, on the N. Side and near the bank of travellers rest
Creek which is at that place about 10 yds wide. these Springs issue from
the bottom and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock, the rock
rises in irregular masy clifts in a circular range, arround the Springs on
their lower Side. imediately above the Springs on the Creek there is a
handsom little quawmash plain of about 10 acres. the principal Spring is
about the temperature of the Warmest baths used at the Hot Springs in
Virginia. in this bath which had been prepared by the Indians by stopping
the river with Stone and mud, I bathed and remained in 10 minits it was
with dificuelty I could remain this long and it causd a profuse swet. two
other bold Springs adjacent to this are much warmer, their heat being so
great as to make the hand of a person Smart extreemly when immerced. we
think the temperature of those Springs about the Same as that of the
hotest of the hot Springs of Virginia. both the Men and the indians amused
themselves with the use of the bath this evening. I observe after the
indians remaining in the hot bath as long as they could bear it run and
plunge themselves into the Creek the water of which is now as Cold as ice
Can make it; after remaining here a fiew minits they return again to the
worm bath repeeting this transision Several times but always ending with
the worm bath. Saw the tracks of 2 bearfooted indians-.
[Lewis, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806. We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this
morning to hunt on the road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us. just
as we had prepared to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at
these springs and one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our
dinners, and we proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at
other times on the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of
the Creek. at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the
creek on the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at
the entrance of a second Northen branch of the creek where we had nooned
it on the 12 th of Septr. last. here we halted, dined and graized our
horses. while here Sheilds took a small tern and killed a deer. at this
place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us leads
to Clarks river some distance below where there is a fine extensive vally
in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes reside. in descending the
creek this morning on the steep side of a high hill my horse sliped with
both his hinder feet out of the road and fell, I also fell off backwards
and slid near 40 feet down the hill before I could stop myself such was
the steepness of the declivity; the horse was near falling on me in the
first instance but fortunately recovers and we both escaped unhirt. I saw
a small grey squirrel today much like those of the Pacific coast only that
the belly of this was white. I also met with the plant in blume which is
sometimes called the lady's slipper or mockerson flower. it is in shape
and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small
veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner side. after dinner we
resumed our march. soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and
in the course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had
killed along the road making a total of 6 today. Deer are very abundant in
the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both speceis, also some bighorns
and Elk. a little before sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the
south side of the creek a little above it's entrance into Clark's river.
here we encamped with a view to remain two days in order to rest ourselves
and horses & make our final arrangements for seperation. we came 19
ms. after dinner the road being much better than it has been since we
entered the mountains we found no appearance of the Ootslashshoots having
been here lately. the indians express much concern for them and apprehend
that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie have distroyed them in the course of
the last winter and spring, and mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians
which we saw yesterday as an evidence of their being much distressed. — our
horses have stood the journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in
fine order, and only want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806 We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this
morning ahead to hunt. just as we had prepard. to set out at an early
hour, a deer Came in to lick at the Springs and one of our hunters killed
it; this Secired to us our dinner. and we proceeded down the Creek,
Sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep
Sides of the ridge to the N of the Creek. at 11/2 m. we passd our
encampment of the 12th of Septr. last. we noon'd it at the place we had on
the 12 of Septr. last whiles here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork
near the road. here a rode leads up the N. fork and passed over to an
extensive vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that river as our
guids inform us. after dinner we resumed our march. Soon after Setting out
Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer had
killed along the road. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood of
travellers rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk. a little
before Sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the S. Side of the Creek
a little above its enterance into Clarks river. here we Encamped with a
view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and horses and make our
final arrangements for Seperation. we found no signs of the Oatlashshots
haveing been here lately. the Indians express much Concern for them and
apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar have destroyed them in the
course of the last Winter and Spring, and mention the tracts of the
bearfooted indians which we Saw yesterday as an evidence of their being
much distressed-. our horses have stood the journey Supirisinly well and
only want a fiew days rest to restore them.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious
mountanes behind us-in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and
hunger of which I shall ever remember. in passing over this part of the
Rocky mountains from Clarks river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th to
the 19th of Septr. 1805 we marched through Snow, which fell on us on the
night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in addition to the cold
rendered the air cool and the way difficuelt. our food was horses of which
we eate three. — On our return we Set out from the quawmash flats on
the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky mountains; the air
became cool and vigitation backward — on the 16th we met with banks of
Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides the Snow was from 3 to
4 feet deep and Scercely any grass vegitation just commencing where the
Snow had melted — on the 17th at meridian, the Snow became So deep in
every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep we could not prosue the road there
being no grass for our horses we were obliged to return to the quawmash
flatts to precure meat to live on as well as grass for our horses — leaveing
our baggage on the mountains We precured 5 Indians as pilots and on the
24th of June 1806 we again under took those Snowey regn. on the 26th we
with our baggage arived at an open plain serounded with Snow where there
was grass for horses on the 27th & 28th also passing over Snow 6 or 8
feet deep all the way on 29th passed over but little Snow — but saw
great masses of it lying in different directions
[Lewis, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806. This morning early we sent out all our hunters. set
Sheilds at work to repair some of our guns which were out of order Capt.
Clark & my self consurted the following plan viz. from this place I
determined to go with a small party by the most direct rout to the falls
of the Missouri, there to leave Thompson McNeal and goodrich to prepare
carriages and geer for the purpose of transporting the canoes and baggage
over the portage, and myself and six volunteers to ascend Maria's river
with a view to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of
that river lies as far north as Latd. 50 and again return and join the
party who are to decend the Missouri, at the entrance of Maria's river. I
now called for the volunteers to accompany me on this rout, many turned
out, from whom I scelected Drewyer the two Feildses, Werner, Frazier and
Sergt Gass accompanied me the other part of the men are to proceed with
Capt Clark to the head of Jefferson's river where we deposited sundry
articles and left our canoes. from hence Sergt Ordway with a party of 9
men are to decend the river with the canoes; Capt C. with the remaining
ten including Charbono and York will proceed to the Yellowstone river at
it's nearest approach to the three forks of the missouri, here he will
build a canoe and decend the Yellowstone river with Charbono the indian
woman, his servant York and five others to the missouri where should he
arrive first he will wait my arrival. Sergt Pryor with two other men are
to proceed with the horses by land to the Mandans and thence to the
British posts on the Assinniboin with a letter to Mr. Heney whom we wish
to engage to prevail on the Sioux Chefs to join us on the Missouri, and
accompany them with us to the seat of the general government. these
arrangements being made the party were informed of our design and prepared
themselves accordingly. our hunters killed 13 deer in the course of this
day of which 7 were fine bucks, deer are large and in fine order. the
indians inform us that there are a great number of white buffaloe or
mountain sheep of the snowey hights of the mountains West of this river;
they state that they inhabit the most rocky and inaccessible parts, and
run but badly, that they kill them with great ease with their arrows when
they can find them. the indian warrior who overtook us on the 26th Ult.
made me a present of an excellent horse which he said he gave for the good
council we had given himself and nation and also to assure us of his
attatchment to the white men and his desire to be at peace with the
Minnetares of Fort de Prarie. we had our venison fleeced and exposed in
the sun on pole to dry. the dove the black woodpecker, the lark
woodpecker, the logcock, the prarie lark, sandhill crain, prarie hen with
the short and pointed tail, the robin, a speceis of brown plover, a few
curloos, small black birds, ravens hawks and a variety of sparrows as well
as the bee martin and the several speceis of Corvus genus are found in
this vally.
Windsor birst his gun near the muzzle a few days since; this Sheilds cut
off and I then exchanged it with the Cheif for the one we had given him
for conducting us over the mountains. he was much pleased with the
exchange and shot his gun several times; he shoots very well for an
inexperienced person.
The little animal found in the plains of the Missouri which I have called
the barking squirrel weighs from 3 to 31/2 pounds. it's form is that of
the squirrel. it's colour is an uniform light brick red grey, the red
reather predominating. the under side of the neck and bely are lighter
coloured than the other parts of the body. the legs are short, and it is
wide across the breast and sholders in propotion to it's size, appears
strongly formed in that part; the head is also bony muscular and stout,
reather more blontly terminated wider and flatter than the common
squirrel. the upper lip is split or divided to the nose. the ears are
short and lie close to the head, having the appearance of being cut off,
in this particular they resemble the guinea pig. the teeth are like those
of the squrrel rat &c. they have a false jaw or pocket between the
skin and the mustle of the jaw like that of the common ground squrrel but
not so large in proportion to their size. they have large and full
whiskers on each side of the nose, a few long hairs of the same kind on
each jaw and over the eyes. the eye is small and black. they have five
toes on each foot of which the two outer toes on each foot are much shoter
than those in the center particularly the two inner toes of the fore feet,
the toes of the fore feet are remarkably long and sharp and seem well
adapted to cratching or burrowing those of the hind feet are neither as
long or sharp as the former; the nails are black. the hair of this animal
is about as long and equally as course as that of the common grey squrrel
of our country, and the hair of the tail is not longer than that of the
body except immediately at the extremity where it is somewhat longer and
frequently of a dark brown colour. the part of generation in the female is
placed on the lower region of the belly between the hinder legs so far
forward that she must lie on her back to copolate. the whole length of
this animal is one foot five inches from the extremity of the nose to that
of the tail of which the tail occupyes 4 inches. it is nearly double the
size of the whistleing squirrel of the Columbia. it is much more quick
active and fleet than it's form would indicate. these squirrels burrow in
the ground in the open plains usually at a considerable distance from the
water yet are never seen at any distance from their burrows. six or eight
usually reside in one burrow to which there is never more than one
entrance. these burrows are of great debth. I once dug and pursued a
burrow to the debth of ten feet and did not reach it's greatest debth.
they generally associate in large societies placing their burrows near
each other and frequently occupy in this manner several hundred acres of
land. when at rest above ground their position is generally erect on their
hinder feet and rump; thus they will generally set and bark at you as you
approach them, their note being much that of the little toy dogs, their
yelps are in quick succession and at each they a motion to their tails
upwards. they feed on the grass and weeds within the limits of their
village which they never appear to exceed on any occasion. as they are
usually numerous they keep the grass and weeds within their district very
closely graized and as clean as if it had been swept. the earth which they
throw out of their burrows is usually formed into a conic mound around the
entrance. this little animal is frequently very fat and it's flesh is not
unpleasant. as soon as the hard frosts commence it shuts up it's burrow
and continues within untill spring. it will eat grain or meat.
[Clark, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806 on Clark's river We Sent out all the hunters very
early this morning by 12 OClock they all returned haveing killd. 12 Deer
Six of them large fat Bucks, this is like once more returning to the land
of liveing a plenty of meat and that very good. as Capt. Lewis and Myself
part at this place we make a division of our party and such baggage and
provisions as is Souteable. the party who will accompany Capt L. is G.
Drewyer, Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Fields, Frazier & Werner, and
Thompson Goodrich & McNear as far as the Falls of Missouri at which
place the 3 latter will remain untill I Send down the Canoes from the head
of Jeffersons river. they will then join that party and after passing the
portage around the falls, proceed on down to the enterance of Maria where
Capt. Lewis will join them after haveing assended that river as high up as
Laid. 50° North. from the head of Jeffersons river I shall proceed on to
the head of the Rockejhone with a party of 9 or 10 men and desend that
river. from the R Rockejhone I Shall dispatch Sergt. Pryor with the horses
to the Mandans and from thence to the Tradeing Establishments of the N. W.
Co on the Assinniboin River with a letter which we have written for the
purpose to engage Mr. H. Haney to endeaver to get Some of the principal
Chiefs of the Scioux to accompany us to the Seat of our government &.
we divide the Loading and apportion the horses. Capt L. only takes 17
horses with him, 8 only of which he intends to take up the Maria &c.
One of the Indians who accompaned us Swam Clarks river and examined the
Country around, on his return he informed us that he had discovered where
a Band of the Tushepaws had encamped this Spring passed of 64 Lodges,
& that they had passed Down Clarks river and that it was probable that
they were near the quawmash flatts on a Easterly branch of that river.
those guides expressed a desire to return to their nation and not
accompany us further, we informed them that if they was deturmined to
return we would kill some meat for them, but wished that they would
accompy Capt. Lewis on the rout to the falls of Missouri only 2 nights and
show him the right road to cross the Mountains. this they agreed to do. we
gave a medal of the Small Size to the young man Son to the late Great
Chief of the Chopunnish Nation who had been remarkably kind to us in every
instance, to all the others we tied a bunch of blue ribon about the hair,
which pleased them very much. the Indian man who overtook us in the
Mountain, presented Capt. Lewis with a horse and said that he opened his
ears to what we had said, and hoped that Cap Lewis would see the
Crovanters of Fort De Prarie and make a good peace that it was their
desire to be at peace. Shew them the horse as a token of their wishes
&c.
[Lewis, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2ed 1806. We sent out the hunters early this morning, they
returned not so succesfull as yesterday having killed 2 deer only. Sheilds
continued repairing the gunns which he compleated by evening. all
arrangements being now compleat we determined to set out in the morning.
in the course of the day we had much conversation with the indians by
signs, our only mode of communicating our ideas. they informed us that
they wished to go in surch of the Ootslashshoots their friends and
intended leaving us tomorrow morning, I prevailed on them to go with me as
far as the East branch of Clark's River and put me on the road to the
Missouri. I gave the Cheif a medal of the small size; he insisted on
exchanging names with me according to their custom which was accordingly
done and I was called Yo-me-kol-lick which interpreted is the white
bearskin foalded. in the evening the indians run their horses, and we had
several foot races betwen the natives and our party with various success.
these are a race of hardy strong athletic active men. nothin worthy of
notice transpired in the course of the day. Goodrich and McNeal are both
very unwell with the pox which they contracted last winter with the
Chinnook women this forms my inducement principally for taking them to the
falls of the Missouri where during an intervail of rest they can use the
murcury freely. I found two speceis of native clover here, the one with a
very narrow small leaf and a pale red flower, the other nearly as
luxouriant as our red clover with a white flower the leaf and blume of the
latter are proportionably large. I found several other uncommon plants
specemines of which I preserved. The leaf of the cottonwood on this river
is like that common to the Columbia narrower than that common to the lower
part of the Missouri and Mississippi and wider than that on the upper part
of the Missouri. the wild rose, servise berry, white berryed honeysuckle,
seven bark, elder, alder aspin, choke cherry and the broad and narrow
leafed willow are natives of this valley. the long leafed pine forms the
principal timber of the neighbourhood, and grows as well in the river
bottoms as on the hills. the firs and larch are confined to the higher
parts of the hills and mountains. the tops of the high mountains on either
side of this river are covered with snow. the musquetoes have been
excessively troublesome to us since our arrival at this place.
[Clark, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2nd 1806 Sent out 2 hunters this morning and they killed 2
Deer. the Musquetors has been So troublesom day and night Since our
arrival in this Vally that we are tormented very much by them and Cant
write except under our Bears. We gave the Second gun to our guides
agreeable to our promis, and to each we gave Powder & ball I had the
greater part of the meat dried for to Subsist my party in the Mountains
between the head of Jeffersons & Clarks rivers where I do not expect
to find any game to kill. had all of our arms put in the most prime order
two of the rifles have unfortunately bursted near the muscle, Shields Cut
them off and they Shute tolerable well one which is very Short we
exchanged with the Indian whoe we had given a longer gun to induc them to
pilot us across the Mountains. we caused every man to fill his horn with
powder & have a sufficincy of Balls &c. the last day in passing
down Travellers rest Creek Capt Lewis fell down the Side of a Steep
Mountain near 40 feet but fortunately receved no dammage. his hors was
near falling on him but fortunately recovered and they both escaped
unhurt. I killed a Small grey squurel and a Common pheasant. Capt L.
Showed me a plant in blume which is Sometimes called the ladies Slipper or
Mockerson flower. it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the
corolla is white marked with Small veigns of pale red longitudinally on
the inner Side, and much Smaller. The Indians and Some of our men amused
themselves in running races on foot as well as with their horses.
[Lewis, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806. All arrangements being now compleated for carrying
into effect the several scheemes we had planed for execution on our
return, we saddled our horses and set out I took leave of my worthy friend
and companion Capt. Clark and the party that accompanyed him. I could not
avoid feeling much concern on this occasion although I hoped this
seperation was only momentary. I proceeded down Clark's river seven miles
with my party of nine men and five indians. here the Indians recommended
our passing the river which was rapid and 150 yds. wide. 2 miles above
this place I passed the entrance of the East branch of Clark's River which
discharges itself by two channels; the water of this river is more terbid
than the main stream and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide. as we had no other
means of passing the river we busied ourselves collecting dry timber for
the purpose of constructing rafts; timber being scarce we found
considerable difficulty in procuring as much as made three small rafts. we
arrived at 11 A.M. and had our rafts completed by 3 P.M. when we dined and
began to take over our baggage which we effected in the course of 3 hours
the rafts being obliged to return several times. the Indians swam over
their horses and drew over their baggage in little basons of deer skins
which they constructed in a very few minutes for that purpose. we drove
our horses in after them and they followed to the opposite shore. I
remained myself with two men who could scarcely swim untill the last; by
this time the raft by passing so frequently had fallen a considerable
distance down the river to a rapid and difficult part of it crouded with
several small Islands and willow bars which were now overflown; with these
men I set out on the raft and was soon hurried down with the current a
mile and a half before we made shore, on our approach to the shore the
raft sunk and I was drawn off the raft by a bush and swam on shore the two
men remained on the raft and fortunately effected a landing at some little
distance below. I wet the chronometer by this accedent which I had placed
in my fob as I conceived for greater security. I now joined the party and
we proceeded with the indians about 3 Ms. to a small Creek and encamped at
sunset. I sent out the hunters who soon returned with three very fine deer
of which I gave the indians half These people now informed me that the
road which they shewed me at no great distance from our Camp would lead us
up the East branch of Clark's river and a river they called Cokahlarishkit
or the river of the road to buffaloe and thence to medicine river and the
falls of the Missouri where we wished to go. they alledged that as the
road was a well beaten track we could not now miss our way and as they
were affraid of meeting with their enimies the Minnetares they could not
think of continuing with us any longer, that they wished now to proceed
down Clark's river in surch of their friends the Shalees. they informed us
that not far from the dividing ridge between the waters of this and the
Missouri rivers the roads forked they recommended the left hand as the
best rout but said they would both lead us to the falls of the Missouri. I
directed the hunters to turn out early in the morning and indeavour to
kill some more meat for these people whom I was unwilling to leave without
giving them a good supply of provision after their having been so obliging
as to conduct us through those tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were
so excessively troublesome this evening that we were obliged to kindle
large fires for our horses these insects tortured them in such manner
untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I realy
thought they would become frantic. about an hour after dark the air become
so coald that the musquetoes disappeared.
We saw the fresh track of a horse this evening in the road near our camp
which the indians supposed to be a Shale spye. we killed a prarie hen with
the short and pointed tail she had a number of young which could just fly.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
July 4th 1806. An Indian arrived alone from the West side of the
mountains. he had pursued and overtook us here. sent out the hunters early
to kill some meat to give the indians as they would not go with us further
and I was unwilling after they service they had rendered to send them away
without a good store of provision. they are going down Clark's River in
surch of the Shalees their friends, and from thence intend returning by
this rout home again, they fleesed their meat informed us that they should
dry it and leave it for their homeward journey. — Set out at 12. had
killed no deer.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806. I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and
the Fieldses to hunt. at 6. A.M. a man of the Pallote pellows arrived from
the West side of the Rocky mountains; he had pursued us a few days after
our departure and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same
young man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains early in
June last when we lay on the Kooskooske and was obliged to relinquish the
enterprize in consequence of the debth and softness of the snow. I gave a
shirt a handkercheif and a small quantity of ammunition to the indians. at
half after eleven the hunters returned from the chase unsuccessfull. I now
ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with these friendly people and at
noon bid them adieu. they had cut the meat which I gave them last evening
thin and exposed it in the sun to dry informing me that they should leave
it in this neighbourhood untill they returned as a store for their
homeward journey. it is worthy of remark that these people were about to
return by the same pass by which they had conducted us through the
difficult part of the Rocky Mountains, altho they were about to decend
Clark's river several days journey in surch of the Shale's their
relations, a circumstance which to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence
that there is not so near or so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by
land along that river as that which we came. the several war routs of the
Minetarees which fall into this vally of Clark's river concenter at
traveller's rest beyond which point they have never yet dared to venture
in pursuit of the nations beyond the mountains. all the nations also on
the west side of the mountain with whom we are acquainted inhabiting the
waters of Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by
this rout. these affectionate people our guides betrayed every emmotion of
unfeigned regret at seperating from us; they said that they were confidint
that the Pahkees, (the appellation they give the Minnetares) would cut us
off. the first 5 miles of our rout was through a part of the extensive
plain in which we were encamped, we then entered the mountains with the
East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined pass on it's N. side
continuing up that river five ms. further to the entrance of the
Cokahlahishkit R which falls in on the N. E. side, is 60 yds. wide deep
and rapid. the banks bold not very high but never overflow. the East fork
below its junction with this stream is 100 yds. wide and above it about
90. the water of boath are terbid but the East branch much the most so;
their beds are composed of sand and gravel; the East fork possesses a
large portion of the former. neither of those streams are navigable in
consequence of the rapids and shoals which obstruct their currents. thus
far a plain or untimbered country bordered the river which near the
junction of these streams spread into a handsome level plain of no great
extent; the hills were covered with long leafed pine and fir. I now
continued my rout up the N. side of the Cokahlahishkit river through a
timbered country for 8 miles and encamped in a handsom bottom on the river
where there was an abundance of excelence grass for our horses. the
evening was fine, air pleasent and no musquetoes. a few miles before we
encamped I killed a squirrel of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains
and a ground squirrel of a speceis which I had never before seen, I
preserved the skins of both of these animals.
[Lewis, July 5, 1806]
July 5th 1806. Set out at 6 A.M. — steered N. 75 E. 61/2 M. passed a
stout C. N Side at 21/2 M. another just above saw an old indian encampment
of 11 lodges of bark and leather on S. side at 31/2 M. killed a deer.
N. 25 E. 12 m. passing a small creek at one m. on S side on which there is
a handsom and extensive Valley and plain for 10 or 12 ms. also another
creek 12 yd. wide at 1/2 a mile further on N. sides and another 8 yds.
wide on N. side at 5 ms further one & 1/2 m. short of the extremity of
this course arrive at a high prarie on N. side from one to three miles in
width extending up the river. halted and dined in the mouth of a little
drane on the left of the plain where there was a considerable quantity of
quawmash. saw a gang of antelopes here of which we killed one the does at
this season herd with each other and have their young. the bucks are alone
there are many wild horses on Clarkes river about the place we passed it
we saw some of them at a distance. there are said to be many of them about
the head of the yellowstone river.
East 6 m. to the entrance of Werner's Creek 35 yds. wide through a high
extensive prairie on N. side. hills low and timbered with the long leafed
pine, larch, and some fir. the road passes at some distance to the left of
the river and this couses is with the river.
N. 22 W. 4 miles to a high insulated knob just above the entrance of a
Creek 8 yards wide which discharges itself into Werners Creek.
N. 75 E. 21/2 M. to the river passing through an extensive and handsom
plain on Werner's Creek, crossing that creek at 1 m. and leaving a high
prarie hill to the right seperating the plain from the river. saw two swan
in this beautiful Creek.
East 3 m. to the entrance of a large creek 20 yds. wide Called
31 m. Seamans Creek passing a creek at 1 m. 8 yds. wide. this course with
the river, the road passing through an extensive high prarie rendered very
uneven by a vast number of little hillucks and sinkholes at the heads of
these two creeks high broken mountains stand at the distance of 10 m.
forming a kind of Cove generally of open untimbered country. — we
encamped on the lower side of the last creek just above it's entrance.
here a war party had encamped about 2 months since and conceald their
fires.
[Lewis, July 6, 1806]
July 6th 1806. Set out a little after sunrise passed the creek a little
above our encampment.
East 14 M. to the point at which the river leaves the extensive plains and
enters the mountains these plains I called the prarie of the knobs from a
number of knobs being irregularly scattered through it. passed the N. fork
1 of the Cokahlarishkit Rivers at 7 M. it is 45 yds. wide deep and rapid.
had some difficulty in passing it. passed a large crooked pond at 4 ms.
further. great Number of the burrowing squirrls in this prarie of the
speceis common to the plains of Columbia. saw some goats and deer. the
hunters killed one of the latter. the trail which we take to be a
returning war-party of the Minnetares of Fort de prarie becomes much
fresher. they have a large pasel of horses. saw some Curloos, bee martains
woodpeckers plover robins, doves, ravens, hawks and a variety of sparrows
common to the plains also some ducks. the North fork is terbid as is also
the main branch which is about 50 yds. wide the other streams are clear.
these plains continue their course S 75 E. and are wide where the river
leaves them. up this valley and creek a road passes to Dearbourn's river
and thence to the Missouri.
N. 60 E 11/2 up the river. here we halted and dine and our hunters
overtook us with a deer which they had killed. river bottoms narrow and
country thickly timbered. Cottonwood and pine grow intermixed in the river
bottoms musquitoes extreemely troublesome. we expect to meet with the
Minnetares and are therefore much on our guard both day and night. the
bois rague in blume. — saw the common small blue flag and peppergrass.
the southern wood and two other speceis of shrub are common in the prarie
of knobs. preserved specemines of them. passed several old indian
encampments of brush lodges.
S 80 E 2 m. to two nearly equal forks of the river here the road forks
also one leading up each branch these are the forks of which I presume the
indians made mention. passed a creek on N. side 12 yds. wide shallow and
clear.
N 75 E. 8 m. to our encampment of this evening over a steep high
Ms. 25 balld toped hill for 2 m. thence through and to the left of a large
low bottom 2 M. thence three miles through a thick wood along the hill
side bottoms narrow. thence 1 m. to our encampment on a large creek some
little distance above it's mouth through a beatifull plain on the border
of which we passed the remains of 32 old lodges. they appear to be those
of the Minnetares as are all those we have seen today. killed five deer
and a beaver today. encamped on the creek much sign of beaver in this
extensive bottom.
[Lewis, July 7, 1806]
July 7 1806. Set out at 7 A.M. N. 75 E. 6 M. with the road through a level
beatifull plain on the North side of the river much timber in the bottoms
hills also timbered with pitch pine. no longleafed pine since we left the
praries of the knobs. crossed a branch of the creek 8 yds. wid. on which
we encamped at 1/4 m. also passed a creek 15 yd. wide at 1/4 further.
North 6 ms. — passed the main creek at a mile 1/2 and kept up it on
the wright hand side through handsom plain bottoms to the foot of a ridge
which we ascended the main stream boar N W & W. as far as I could see
it a wright hand fork falls into this creek at 1 M. above the commencement
of this course.
N. 15 E. 8 m. over two ridges and again striking the wrighthand fork at 4
ms. then continued up it on the left hand side much appearance of beaver
many dams. bottoms not wide and covered with low willow and grass. halted
to dine at a large beaver dam the hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. deer
are remarkably plenty and in good order. Reubin Fields wounded a moos deer
this morning near our camp. my dog much worried.
N. 10 E. 3 m. up the same creek on the east side through a handsome narrow
plain.
N 45 E. 2 m. passing the dividing ridge betwen the waters of the Columbia
and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile from this gap which is low and an
easy ascent on the W. side the fort mountain bears North Eaast, and
appears to be distant about 20 Miles. the road for one and 3/4 miles
desends the hill and continues down a branch.
N. 20 W. 7 ms. over several hills and hollows along the foot of the
mountain hights passing five small rivulets running to the wright. saw
some sighn of buffaloe early this morning in the valley where we encamped
last evening from which it appears that the buffaloe do sometimes
penetrate these mountains a few miles. we saw no buffaloe this evening.
but much old appearance of dung, tracks &c. encamped on a small run
under the foot of the mountain. after we encamped Drewyer killed two
beaver and shot third which bit his knee very badly and escaped
[Lewis, July 8, 1806]
July 8th 1806. Set out at 6 A.M.
N 25 W. 31/2 m. to the top of a hill from whence we saw the Shishequaw
mountain about 8 M. distant, immediately before us. passed Dearborne's
river at 3 m. this stream comes form the S. W. out of the mountains which
are about 5 Ms. to our left. the bed of the river is about 100 yds. wide
tho the water occupys only about 30 yds. it appears to spread over it's
bottoms at certain seasons of the year and runs a mear torrant tearing up
the trees by the roots which stand in it's bottom the Shishiquaw mountain
is a high insulated conic mountain standing several miles in advance of
the Eastern range of the rocky mountains. Country broken and mountanous to
our wright.
North — 141/2 ms. through an open plain to Shishequaw Creek 20 yds.
wide bottoms and considerable gantity of timber it leaves the mountain to
the S E and enters the mountains. we struck it about 10 miles below the
mountain which boar S. 32 W. from us. the road continued along the foot of
the mountain to the West of north which not being anything like our course
and the country becoming tolerably level at the commencement of this
course we steered through the plains leaving the road with a view to
strike Medicine river and hunt down it to it's mouth in order to procure
the necessary skins to make geer, and meat for the three men whom we mean
to leave at the falls as none of them are hunters. we halted and dined on
Shishequaw Creek R. Fields killed a fine buck and a goat; Josh. Fields saw
two buffaloe below us some distance which are the first that have been
seen. we saw a great number of deer goats and wolves as we passed through
the plains this morning but no Elk or buffaloe. saw some barking squirrils
much rejoiced at finding ourselves in the plains of the Missouri which
abound with game.
N. 50 E 2 m. to the discharge of Shishequaw Creek into the Medicine Rivers
through an extensive beautiful) and level bottom.
N. 85° E. 8 m. to our encampment of this evening on a large island the
bottoms continue level low and extensive plains level and not very
elivated partcularly on the N. E. side of the river. the land of neither
the plains nor bottoms is fertile. it is of a light colour intermixed with
a considerable proportion of gravel the grass generally about 9 inghes
high. the hunters were unsuccessful this evening. I killed a very large
and the whitest woolf I have seen-
[Lewis, July 9, 1806]
July 9th 1806. Set out early and had not proceeded far before it began to
rain. the air extreemly cold. halted a few minutes in some old lodges
until it cased to rain in some measure. we then proceeded and it rained
without intermission wet us to the skin.
N. 80° E. 4 ms. through a handsome level wide bottom in which there is a
considerable quanty of narrow leafed cottonwood timber. the river is
generally about 80 yds. wide rapid yet I think it migt be navigated. it's
bed is loose gravel and pebbles. the banks low but seldom overflow. water
clear.
S 85 E 4 ms Still on the S W. side of the river through wide and level
bottoms some timber. Joseph feilds killed a very fat buffaloe bull and we
halted to dine. we took the best of the meat as much as we could possibly
carry on our horses. the day continuing rainy and cold I concluded to
remain all day. we feasted on the buffaloe. saw a number of deer wolves
and Antelopes. killed two deer.
[Lewis, July 10, 1806]
July 10th 1806. Set out early and continued down the S W bank of the river
N 75 E 24 m. to our encampment in a grove of cottonwood timber. the latter
part of this course for 7 miles there is no timber in the river bottom,
the other parts of the river possesses bottoms of the wide leafed
cottonwood. much the greater part of the bottom is untimbered. the bottoms
are wide and level the high praries or plains are also beautiful level and
smooth. great quantities of prickly pear of two kinds on the plains. the
ground is renderd so miry by the rain which fell yesterday that it is
excessively fatiegueing to the horses to travel. we came 10 miles and
halted for dinner the wind blowing down the river in the fore part of the
day was unfavourable to the hunters they saw several gangs of Elk but they
having the wind of them ran off. in the evening the wind set from the West
and we fell in with a few elk of which R. Fields and myself killed 3 one
of which swam the river and fell on the opposite so we therefore lost it's
skin I sent the packhorses on with Sergt. Gass directing them to halt and
encamp at the first timber which proved to be about 7 ms. I retained
frazier to assist in skining the Elk. we wer about this time joined by
drewer. a large brown bear swam the river near where we were and drewyer
shot and killed it. by the time we butchered thes 2 elk and bar it was
nearly dark we loaded our horses with the best of the meat and pursud the
party and found them encamped as they had been directed in the first
timber. we did not reach them until 9 P.M. they informed us that they had
seen a very large bear in the plains which had pursued Sergt. Gass and
Thomson some distance but their horses enabled them to keep out of it's
reach. they were affraid to fire on the bear least their horses should
throw them as they were unaccustomed to the gun. we killed five deer 3 Elk
and a bear today saw vast herds of buffaloe in the evening below us on the
river. we hered them bellowing about us all night. vast assemblages of
wolves. saw a large herd of Elk making down the river. passed a
considerable rapid in medicine river after dark. the river about a hundred
yards wide is deep and in many parts rappid and today has been much
crouded with islands. from our encampment down we know the river and there
is no rapids and scarcely any courant. goosberries are very abundant of
the common red kind and are begining to ripen. no currants on this river.
both species of the prickly pears just in blume.
[Lewis, July 11, 1806]
July 11th 1806. the morning was fair and the plains looked beatifull the
grass much improved by the late rain. the air was pleasant and a vast
assemblage of little birds which croud to the groves on the river sung
most enchantingly. we set out early. I sent the hunters down Medicine
river to hunt Elk and proceeded with the party across the plain to the
white bear Islands which I found to be 8 ms. distant my course S. 75 E.
through a level beautiful) and extensive high plain covered with immence
birds of buffaloe. — it is now the season at which the buffaloe begin
to coppelate and the bulls keep a tremendious roaring we could hear them
for many miles and there are such numbers of them that there is one
continual roar. our horses had not been acquainted with the buffaloe they
appeared much allarmed at their appearance and bellowing. when I arrived
in sight of the whitebear Islands the missouri bottoms on both sides of
the river were crouded with buffaloe I sincerely belief that there were
not less than 10 thousand buffaloe within a circle of 2 miles arround that
place. I met with the hunters at a little grove of timber opposite to the
island where they had killed a cowl and were waiting our arrival. they had
met with no elk. I directed the hunters to kill some buffaloe as well for
the benifit of their skins to enable us to pass the river as for their
meat for the men I meant to leave at this place. we unloaded our horses
and encamped opposite to the Islands. had the cow skined and some willows
sticks collected to make canoes of the hides by 12 OCk. they killed eleven
buffaloe most of them in fine order. the bulls are now generally much
fatter than the cows and are fine beef. I sent out all hands with the
horses to assist in buthering and bringing in the meat by 3 in the evening
we had brought in a large quantity of fine beef and as many hides as we
wanted for canoes shelters and geer. I then set all hands to prepare two
canoes the one we made after the mandan fassion with a single skin in the
form of a bason and the other we constructed of two skins on a plan of our
own. we were unable to compleat our canoes this evening. the wind blew
very hard. we continued our operations untill dark and then retired to
rest. I intend giving my horses a couple of days rest at this place and
deposit all my baggage which is not necessary to my voyage up medicine
river.
[Lewis, July 12, 1806]
July 12th 1806. we arrose early and resumed our operations in compleating
our canoes which we completed by 10 A.M. about this time two of the men
whom I had dispatched this morning in quest of the horses returned with
seven of them only. the remaining ten of our best horses were absent and
not to be found. I fear that they are stolen. I dispatch two men on
horseback in surch of them. the wind blew so violently that I did not
think it prudent to attempt passing the river. — at Noon Werner
returned having found three others of the horses near Fort Mountain.
Sergt. Gass did not return untill 3 P.M. not having found the horses. he
had been about 8 ms. up medecine river. I now dispatched Joseph Fields and
Drewyer in quest of them. the former returned at dark unsuccessfull and
the latter continued absent all night. at 5 P.M. the wind abated and we
transported our baggage and meat to the opposite shore in our canoes which
we found answered even beyond our expectations. we swam our horses over
also and encamped at sunset. quetoes extreemly troublesome. I think the
river is somewhat higher than when we were here last summer. the present
season has been much more moist than the preceeding one. the grass and
weeds are much more luxouriant than they were when I left this place on
the 13th of July 1805 saw the brown thrush, pigeons, doves &c.
the yellow Currants begining to ripen.
[Lewis, July 13, 1806]
13th July. removed above to my old station opposite the upper point of the
white bear island. formed our camp and set Thompson &c at work to
complete the geer for the horses. had the cash opened found my bearskins
entirly destroyed by the water, the river having risen so high that the
water had penitrated. all my specimens of plants also lost. the Chart of
the Missouri fortunately escaped. opened my trunks and boxes and exposed
the articles to dry. found my papers damp and several articles damp. the
stoper had come out of a phial of laudinum and the contents had run into
the drawer and distroyed a gret part of my medicine in such manner that it
was past recovery. waited very impatiently for the return of Drewyer he
did not arrive. Musquetoes excessively troublesome insomuch that without
the protection of my musquetoe bier I should have found it impossible to
wright a moment. the buffaloe are leaving us fast and passing on to the S.
East. killed a buffaloe picker a beatifull bird.
[Lewis, July 14, 1806]
14th July Had the carriage wheels dug up found them in good order. the
iron frame of the boat had not suffered materially. had the meat cut
thiner and exposed to dry in the sun. and some roots of cows of which I
have yet a small stock pounded into meal for my journey. I find the fat
buffaloe meat a great improvement to the mush of these roots. the old cash
being too damp to venture to deposit my trunks &c in I sent them over
to the Large island and had them put on a high scaffold among some thick
brush and covered with skins. I take this precaution lest some indians may
visit the men I leave here before the arrival of the main party and rob
them. the hunters killed a couple of wolves, the buffaloe have almost
entirely disappeared. saw the bee martin. the wolves are in great numbers
howling arround us and loling about in the plains in view at the distance
of two or three hundred yards. I counted 27 about the carcase of a
buffaloe which lies in the water at the upper point of the large island.
these are generally of the large kind. Drewyer did not return this
evening.
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
15 July 1806. Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the
portage to see whether the large perogue and cash were safe. — Drewyer
returned without the horses and reported that he had tracked them to
beyond our camp of the
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday July 15th 1806. Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower
part of portage in order to learn whether the Cash and white perogue
remained untouched or in what state they were. the men employed in drying
the meat, dressing deerskins and preparing for the reception of the
canoes. at 1 P.M. Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that
after a diligent surch of 2 days he had discovered where the horses had
passed Dearborn's river at which place there were 15 lodges that had been
abandoned about the time our horses were taken; he pursued the tracks of a
number of horses from these lodges to the road which we had traveled over
the mountains which they struck about 3 ms. South of our encampment of the
7th inst. and had pursued this road Westwardly; I have no doubt but they
are a party of the Tushapahs who have been on a buffaloe hunt. Drewyer
informed that there camp was in a small bottom on the river of about 5
acres inclosed by the steep and rocky and lofty clifts of the river and
that so closely had they kept themselves and horses within this little
spot that there was not a track to be seen of them within a quarter of a
mile of that place. every spire of grass was eaten up by their horses near
their camp which had the appearance of their having remained here some
time. his horse being much fatiegued with the ride he had given him and
finding that the indians had at least 2 days the start of him thought it
best to return. his safe return has releived me from great anxiety. I had
already settled it in my mind that a whitebear had killed him and should
have set out tomorrow in surch of him, and if I could not find him to
continue my rout to Maria's river. I knew that if he met with a bear in
the plains even he would attack him. and that if any accedent should
happen to seperate him from his horse in that situation the chances in
favour of his being killed would be as 9 to 10. I felt so perfectly
satisfyed that he had returned in safety that I thought but little of the
horses although they were seven of the best I had. this loss great as it
is, is not intirely irreparable, or at least dose not defeat my design of
exploring Maria's river. I have yet 10 horses remaining, two of the best
and two of the worst of which I leave to assist the party in taking the
canoes and baggage over the portage and take the remaining 6 with me;
these are but indifferent horses most of them but I hope they may answer
our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party, (viz ) Gass,
Frazier and Werner, and take the two Feildses and Drewyer. by having two
spare horses we can releive those we ride. having made this arrangement I
gave orders for an early departure in the morning, indeed I should have
set out instantly but McNeal road one of the horses which I intend to take
and has not yet returned. a little before dark McNeal returned with his
musquet broken off at the breech, and informed me that on his arrival at
willow run he had approached a white bear within ten feet without discover
him the bear being in the thick brush, the horse took the allarm and
turning short threw him immediately under the bear; this animal raised
himself on his hinder feet for battle, and gave him time to recover from
his fall which he did in an instant and with his clubbed musquet he struck
the bear over the head and cut him with the guard of the guns and broke
off the breech, the bear stunned with the stroke fell to the ground and
began to scratch his head with his feet; this gave McNeal time to climb a
willow tree which was near at hand and thus fortunately made his escape.
the bear waited at the foot of the tree untill late in the evening before
he left him, when McNeal ventured down and caught his horse which had by
this time strayed off to the distance of 2 ms. and returned to camp. these
bear are a most tremenduous animal; it seems that the hand of providence
has been most wonderfully in our favor with rispect to them, or some of us
would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there seems to
be a sertain fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls, for
there is always a chapter of accedents prepared for us during our
residence at them. the musquetoes continue to infest us in such manner
that we can scarcely exist; for my own part I am confined by them to my
bier at least 3/4ths of my time. my dog even howls with the torture he
experiences from them, they are almost insupportable, they are so numerous
that we frequently get them in our thrats as we breath.
[Lewis, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday July 16th 1806. I dispatched a man early this morning to drive
up the horses as usual, he returned at 8 A.M. with one of them only.
allarmed at this occurrence I dispatched one of my best hands on horseback
in surch of them he returned at 10 A.M. with them and I immediately set
out. sent Drewyer and R. Fields with the horses to the lower side of
Medecine river, and proceeded myself with all our baggage and J. Fields
down the missouri to the mouth of Medecine river in our canoe of buffaloe
skins. we were compelled to swim the horses above the whitebear island and
again across medicine river as the Missouri is of great width below the
mouth of that river. having arrived safely below Medicine river we
immediatly sadled our horses and proceeded down the river to the handsom
fall of 47 feet where I halted about 2 hours and took a haisty sketch of
these falls; in the mean time we had some meat cooked and took dinner
after which we proceeded to the grand falls where we arrived at sunset. on
our way we saw two very large bear on the opposite side of the river. as
we arrived in sight of the little wood below the falls we saw two other
bear enter it; this being the only wood in the neighbourhood we were
compelled of course to contend with the bear for possession, and therefore
left our horses in a place of security and entered the wood which we
surched in vain for the bear, they had fled. here we encamped and the
evening having the appearance of rain made our beds and slept under a
shelving rock. these falls have abated much of their grandure since I
first arrived at them in June 1805, the water being much lower at preset
than it was at that moment, however they are still a sublimely grand
object. I determined to take a second drawing of it in the morning. we saw
a few buffaloe as we passed today, the immence hirds which were about this
place on our arrival have principally passed the river and directed their
course downwards. we see a number of goats or antilopes always in passing
through the plains of the Missouri above the Mandans. at this season they
are thinly scattered over the plains but seem universally distributed in
every part; they appear very inquisitive usually to learn what we are as
we pass, and frequently accompany us at no great distance for miles,
frequently halting and giving a loud whistle through their nostrils, they
are a very pretty animal and astonishingly fleet and active. we spent this
evening free from the torture of the Musquetoes. there are a great number
of geese which usually raise their young above these falls about the
entrance of Medicine river we saw them in large flocks of several hundred
as we passed today. I saw both yesterday and today the Cookkoo or as it is
sometimes called the rain craw. this bird is not met with west of the
Rocky Mountains nor within them.
[Lewis, July 17, 1806]
Thursday July 17th 1806. I arrose early this morning and made a drawing of
the falls. after which we took breakfast and departed. it being my design
to strike Maria's river about the place at which I left it on my return to
it's mouth in the begining of June 1805. I steered my course through the
wide and level plains which have somewhat the appearance of an ocean, not
a tree nor a shrub to be seen. the land is not fertile, at least far less
so, than the plains of the Columbia or those lower down this river, it is
a light coloured soil intermixed with a considerable proportion of coarse
gravel without sand, when dry it cracks and appears thursty and is very
hard, in it's wet state, it is as soft and slipry as so much soft soap the
grass is naturally but short and at present has been rendered much more so
by the graizing of the buffaloe, the whole face of the country as far as
the eye can reach looks like a well shaved bowlinggreen, in which immence
and numerous herds of buffaloe were seen feeding attended by their
scarcely less numerous sheepherds the wolves. we saw a number of goats as
usual today, also the party coloured plover with the brick red head and
neck; this bird remains about the little ponds which are distributed over
the face of these plains and here raise their young. we killed a buffaloe
cow as we passed throug the plains and took the hump and tonge which
furnish ample rations for four men one day. at 5 P.M. we arrived at rose
rivers where I purposed remaining all night as I could not reach maria's
river this evening and unless I did there would be but little probability
of our finding any wood and very probably no water either. on our arrival
at the river we saw where a wounded and bleading buffaloe had just passed
and concluded it was probable that the indians had been runing them and
were near at hand. the Minnetares of Fort de prarie and the blackfoot
indians rove through this quarter of the country and as they are a vicious
lawless and reather an abandoned set of wretches I wish to avoid an
interview with them if possible. I have no doubt but they would steel our
horses if they have it in their power and finding us weak should they
happen to be numerous wil most probably attempt to rob us of our arms and
baggage; at all events I am determined to take every possible precaution
to avoid them if possible. I hurried over the river to a thick wood and
turned out the horses to graize; sent Drewyer to pursue and kill the
wounded buffaloe in order to determine whether it had been wounded by the
indians or not, and proceeded myself to reconnoitre the adjacent country
having sent R. Fields for the same purpose a different rout. I ascended
the river hills and by the help of my glass examined the plains but could
make no discovery, in about an hour I returned to camp, where I met with
the others who had been as unsuccessfull as myself. Drewyer could not find
the wounded buffaloe. J. Fields whom I had left at camp had already
roasted some of the buffaloe meat and we took dinner after which I sent
Drewyer and R. Fields to resume their resurches for the indians; and set
myself down to record the transactions of the day. rose river is at this
place fifty yards wide, the water which is only about 3 feet deep occupys
about 35 yds. and is very terbid of a white colour. the general course of
this river is from East to west so far as I can discover it's track
through the plains, it's bottoms are wide and well timbered with
cottonwood both the broad and narrow leafed speceis. the bed of this
stream is small gravel and mud; it's banks are low but never overflow, the
hills are about 100 or 150 feet high; it possesses bluffs of earth like
the lower part of the Missouri; except the debth and valocity of it's
stream and it is the Missouri in miniture. from the size of rose river at
this place and it's direction I have no doubt but it takes it's source
within the first range of the Rocky mountains. the bush which bears the
red berry is here in great plenty in the river bottoms The spies returned
having killed 2 beaver and a deer. they reported that they saw no
appearance of Indians.
[Lewis, July 18, 1806]
Friday July 18th 1806. We set out this morning a little before sunrise
ascended the river hills and continued our rout as yesterday through the
open plains at about 6 miles we reached the top of an elivated plain which
divides the waters of the rose river from those of Maria's river. from
hence the North mountains, the South mountains, the falls mountains and
the Tower Mountain and those arround and to the East of the latter were
visible. our course led us nearly parrallel with a creek of Maria's river
which takes it's rise in these high plains at the place we passed them; at
noon we struck this creek about 6 ms. from its junction with Maria's river
where we found some cottonwood timber; here we halted to dine and graize
our horses. the bed of this creek is about 25 yds. wide at this place but
is nearly dry at present, the water being confined to little pools in the
deeper parts of it's bed. from hence downwards there is a considerable
quantity of timber in it's bottom. we passed immence herds of buffaloe on
our way in short for about 12 miles it appeared as one herd only the whole
plains and vally of this creek being covered with them; saw a number of
wolves of both speceis, also Antelopes and some horses. after dinner we
proceeded about 5 miles across the plain to Maria's river where we arrived
at 6 P.M. we killed a couple of buffaloe in the bottom of this river and
encamped on it's west side in a grove of cottonwood some miles above the
entrance of the creek. being now convinced that we were above the point to
which I had formerly ascended this river and faring that a fork of this
stream might fall in on the Northside between this place and the point to
which I had ascended it, I directed Drewyer who was with me on my former
excurtion, and Joseph Fields to decend the river early in the morning to
the place from whence I had returned, and examine whether any stream fell
inn or not. I keep a strict lookout every night, I take my tour of watch
with the men.
[Lewis, July 19, 1806]
Saturday July 19th 1806. Drewyer and J. Fields set out early this morning
in conformity to my instructions last evening. they returned at 1/2 after
12 OCk. and informed me that they had proceeded down the river to the
place from which I had returned on the ____ of June last and that it was 6
miles distant. they passed the entrance of buffaloe Creek at 2 ms. the
course of the river from hence downwards as far as they were is N. 80 E.
they killed 8 deer and two Antelopes on their way; most of the deer were
large fat mule bucks. having completed my observation of the sun's
meridian Altitude we set out, ascended the river hills having passed the
river and proceeded through the open plains up the N. side of the river 20
miles and encamped. at 15 miles we passed a large creek on N. side a
little above it's entrance; there is but little running water in this
creek at present, it's bed is about 30 yds. wide and appears to come from
the broken Mountains so called from their raggid and irregular shape there
are three of them extending from east to West almost unconnected, the
center mountain terminates in a conic spire and is that which I have
called the tower mountain they are destitute of timber. from the entrance
of this creek they bore N. 10° W. the river bottoms are usually about 1/2
a mile wide and possess a considerable quantity of timber entirely
cottonwood; the underbrush is honeysuckle rose bushes the narrow leafed
willow and the bush which bears the acid red berry called by the french
engages grease de buff. just as we halted to encamp R. Fields killed a
mule doe. the plains are beautifull and level but the soil is but thin. in
many parts of the plains there are great quantities of prickly pears. saw
some herds of buffaloe today but not in such quantities as yesterday, also
antelopes, wolves, gees, pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens crows larks
sparrows &c. the Curlooe has disappeared.
[Lewis, July 20, 1806]
Sunday July 20th 1806 We set at sunrise and proceed through the open plain
as yesterday up the North side of the river. the plains are more broken
than they were yesterday and have become more inferior in point of soil; a
great quanty of small gravel is every where distributed over the surface
of the earth which renders travling extreemly painfull to our bearfoot
horses. the soil is generally a white or whiteish blue clay, this where it
has been trodden by the buffaloe when wet has now become as firm as a
brickbat and stands in an inumerable little points quite as formidable to
our horses feet as the gravel. the mineral salts common to the plains of
the missouri has been more abundant today than usual. the bluffs of the
river are about 200 feet high, steep irregular and formed of earth which
readily desolves with water, slips and precipitates itself into the river
as before mentioned frequentlly of the bluffs of the Missouri below which
they resemble in every particular, differing essencially from those of the
Missouri above the entrance of this river, they being composed of firm red
or yellow clay which dose not yeald readily to the rains and a large
quantity of rock. the soil of the river bottom is fertile and well
timbered, I saw some trees today which would make small canoes. the timber
is generally low. the underbrush the same as before mentioned. we have
seen fewer buffaloe today than usual, though more Elk and not less wolves
and Antelopes also some mule deer; this speceis of deer seems most
prevalent in this quarter. saw some gees ducks and other birds common to
the country. there is much appearance of beaver on this river, but not any
of otter. from the apparent decent of the country to the North and above
the broken mountains I am induced to beleive that the South branch of the
Suskashawan receives a part of it's waters from the plain even to the
borders of this river and from the brakes visible in the plains in a
nothern direction think that a branch of that river decending from the
rocky mountains passes at no great distance from Maria's river and to the
N. E. of the broken mountains. the day has proved excessively warm and we
lay by four hours during the heat of it; we traveled 28 miles and encamped
as usual in the river bottom on it's N. side. there is scarcely any water
at present in the plains and what there is, lies in small pools and is so
strongly impregnated with the mineral salts that it is unfit for any
purpose except the uce of the buffaloe. these animals appear to prefer
this water to that of the river. the wild liquorice and sunflower are very
abundant in the plains and river bottoms, the latter is now in full blume;
the silkgrass and sand rush are also common to the bottom lands. the
musquetoes have not been troublesome to us since we left the whitebear
islands.
[Lewis, July 21, 1806]
Monday July 21st 1806. We set out at sunrise and proceeded a short
distance up the North side of the river; we found the ravines which made
in on this side were so steep and numerous that we passed the river in
doing which the pack horse which carried my instruments missed the ford
and wet the instruments. this accident detained us about half an hor. I
took the Instruments out wiped them and dryed their cases, they sustained
no naterial injury. we continued on the S. side of the river about 3 miles
when we again passed over to the N. side and took our course through the
plains at some distance from the river. we saw a large herd of Elk this
morning. the buffaloe still become more scarce. at 2 P.M. we struck a
northern branch of Marias river about 30 yds. wide at the distance of
about 8 miles from it's entrance. this stream is closely confined between
clifts of freestone rocks the bottom narrow below us and above the rocks
confine it on each side; some little timber below but not any above; the
water of this stream is nearly clear. from the appearance of this rock and
the apparent hight of the bed of the streem I am induced to beleive that
there are falls in these rivers somewhere about their junction. being
convinced that this stream came from the mountains I determined to pursue
it as it will lead me to the most nothern point to which the waters of
Maria's river extend which I now fear will not be as far north as I wished
and expected. after dinner we set out up the North branch keeping on it's
S. side; we pursued it untill dark and not finding any timber halted and
made a fire of the dung of the buffaloe. we lay on the south side in a
narrow bottom under a Clift. our provision is nearly out, we wounded a
buffaloe this evening but could not get him.
[Lewis, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday July 22ed 1806. We set out very early this morning as usual and
proceeded up the river. for the first seven miles of our travel this
morning the country was broken the land poor and intermixed with a greater
quantity of gravel than usual; the ravines were steep and numerous and our
horses feet have become extreemly soar in traveling over the gravel we
therefore traveled but slow. we met with a doe Elk which we wounded but
did not get her. the river is confined closely between clifts of
perpendicular rocks in most parts. after the distance of seven miles the
country became more level les gravly and some bottoms to the river but not
a particle of timber nor underbush of any discription is to be seen. we
continued up the river on it's South side for 17 miles when we halted to
glaize our horses and eat; there being no wood we were compelled to make
our fire with the buffaloe dung which I found answered the purpose very
well. we cooked and eat all the meat we had except a small peice of
buffaloe meat which was a little tainted. after dinner we passed the river
and took our course through a level and beautifull plain on the N. side.
the country has now become level, the river bottoms wide and the adjoining
plains but little elivated above them; the banks of the river are not
usually more than from 3 to four feet yet it dose not appear ever to
overflow them. we found no timber untill we had traveled 12 miles further
when we arrived at a clump of large cottonwood trees in a beautifull and
extensive bottom of the river about 10 miles below the foot of the rocky
mountains where this river enters them; as I could see from hence very
distinctly where the river entered the mountains and the bearing of this
point being S of West I thought it unnecessary to proceed further and
therefore encamped resolving to rest ourselves and horses a couple of days
at this place and take the necessary observations. this plain on which we
are is very high; the rocky mountains to the S. W. of us appear but low
from their base up yet are partially covered with snow nearly to their
bases. there is no timber on those mountains within our view; they are
very irregular and broken in their form and seem to be composed
principally of clay with but little rock or stone. the river appears to
possess at least double the vollume of water which it had where we first
arrived on it below; this no doubt proceeds from the avapparation caused
by the sun and air and the absorbing of the earth in it's passage through
these open plains. The course of the mountains still continues from S. E.
to N. W. the front rang appears to terminate abrubtly about 35 ms. to the
N. W. Of us. I believe that the waters of the Suskashawan apporoach the
borders of this river very nearly. I now have lost all hope of the waters
of this river ever extending to N Latitude 50° though I still hope and
think it more than probable that both white earth river and milk river
extend as far north as latd. 50° — we have seen but few buffaloe today
no deer and very few Antelopes; gam of every discription is extreemly wild
which induces me to beleive that the indians are now, or have been lately
in this neighbourhood. we wounded a buffaloe this evening but our horses
were so much fatiegued that we were unable to pursue it with success.
[Lewis, July 23, 1806]
Wednesdy July 23rd 1806 I dispatched Drewyer an Joseph fields this morning
to hunt. I directed Drewyer who went up the river to observe it's bearings
and the point at which it entered the mountains, this he did and on his
return I observed the point at which the river entered to bear S 50° W.
distant about ten miles the river making a considerable bend to the West
just above us.
both these hunters returned unsuccessful and reported that there was no
game nor the appearance of any in this quarter. we now rendered the grease
from our tainted meat and made some mush of cows with a part of it,
reserving as much meal of cows and grease as would afford us one more meal
tomorrow. Drewyer informed us that there was an indian camp of eleven
leather lodges which appeared to have been abandoned about 10 days, the
poles only of the lodges remained. we are confident that these are the
Minnetares of fort de prarie and suspect that they are probably at this
time somewhere on the main branch of Maria's river on the borders of the
buffaloe, under this impression I shall not strike that river on my return
untill about the mouth of the North branch. near this place I observe a
number of the whistleing squirrel of the speceis common to the plains and
country watered by the Columbia river, this is the first instance in which
I have found this squirrel in the plains of the Missouri. the Cottonwood
of this place is also of the speceis common to the Columbia. we have a
delightfull pasture for our horses where we are.
The clouds obscured the moon and put an end to further observation. the
rok which makes its appearance on this part of the river is of a white
colour fine grit and makes excellet whetstones; it lies in horizontal
stratas and makes it's appearance in the bluffs of the river near their
base. we indeavoured to take some fish but took only one small trout.
Musquetoes uncommonly large and reather troublesome.
[Lewis, July 24, 1806]
Thursday July 24th 1806. At 8 A.M. the sun made it's appearance for a few
minutes and I took it's altitude but it shortly after clouded up again and
continued to rain the ballance of the day I was therefore unable to
complete the observations I wished to take at this place. I determined to
remain another day in the hope of it's being fair. we have still a little
bread of cows remaining of which we made a kettle of mush which together
with a few pigeons that we were fortunate enough to kill served us with
food for this day. I sent the hunters out but they shortly returned
without having killed anything and declared that it was useless to hunt
within 6 or 8 miles of this place that there was no appearance of game
within that distance. the air has become extreemly cold which in addition
to the wind and rain renders our situation extreemly unpleasant. several
wolves visited our camp today, I fired on and wounded one of them very
badly. the small speceis of wolf barks like a dog, they frequently salute
us with this note as we pass through the plains.
[Lewis, July 25, 1806]
Friday July 25th 1806. The weather still continues cold cloudy and rainy,
the wind also has blown all day with more than usual violence from the N.
W. this morning we eat the last of our birds and cows, I therefore
directed Drewyer and J. Fields to take a couple of the horses and proceed
to the S. E. as far as the main branch of Maria's river which I expected
was at no great distance and indeavour to kill some meat; they set out
immediately and I remained in camp with R. Fields to avail myself of every
opportunity to make my observations should any offer, but it continued to
rain and I did not see the sun through the whole course of the day R.
Fields and myself killed nine pigeons which lit in the trees near our camp
on these we dined. late in the evening Drewyer and J. Fields returned the
former had killed a fine buck on which we now fared sumptuously. they
informed me that it was about 10 miles to the main branch of Maria's
River, that the vally formed by the river in that quarter was wide
extensive and level with a considerable quantity timber; here they found
some wintering camps of the natives and a great number of others of a more
recent date or that had from appearance been evacuated about 6 weeks; we
consider ourselves extreemly fortunate in not having met with these
people. I determined that if tomorrow continued cloudy to set out as I now
begin to be apprehensive that I shall not reach the United States within
this season unless I make every exertion in my power which I shall
certainly not omit when once I leave this place which I shall do with much
reluctance without having obtained the necessary data to establish it's
longitude-as if the fates were against me my chronometer from some unknown
cause stoped today, when I set her to going she went as usual.
[Lewis, July 26, 1806]
Saturday July 26th 1806. The moring was cloudy and continued to rain as
usual, tho the cloud seemed somewhat thiner. I therefore posponed seting
out untill 9 A.M. in the hope that it would clear off but finding the
contrary result I had the horses caught and we set out biding a lasting
adieu to this place which I now call camp disappointment. I took my rout
through the open plains S. E. 5 ms. passing a small creek at 2 ms. from
the mountains wher I changed my direction to S. 75 E. for 7 ms. further
and struck a principal branch of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very
deep, I passed this stream to it's south side and continued down it 2 ms.
on the last mentioned course when another branch of nearly the same
dignity formed a junction with it, coming from the S. W. this last is
shallow and rappid; has the appearance of overflowing it's banks
frequently and discharging vast torrants of water at certain seasons of
the year. the beds of both these streams are pebbly particularly the S.
branch. the water of the N. branch is very terbid while that of the S.
branch is nearly clear not withstanding the late rains. I passed the S.
branch just above it's junction and continued down the river which runs a
little to the N of E 1 ms. and halted to dine and graize our horses here I
found some indian lodges which appeared to have been inhabited last winter
in a large and fertile bottom well stocked with cottonwood timber. the
rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes constitute the undergrowth there
being but little willow in this quarter both these rivers abov their
junction appeared to be well stocked with timber or comparitively so with
other parts of this country. here it is that we find the three species of
cottonwood which I have remarked in my voyage assembled together that
speceis common to the Columbia I have never before seen on the waters of
the Missouri, also the narrow and broad leafed speceis. during our stay at
this place R. Fields killed a buck a part of the flesh of which we took
with us. we saw a few Antelopes some wolves and 2 of the smallest speceis
of fox of a redish brown colour with the extremity of the tail black. it
is about the size of the common domestic cat and burrows in the plains.
after dinner I continued my rout down the river to the North of Eat about
3 ms. when the hills putting in close on the S side I determined to ascend
them to the high plain which I did accordingly, keeping the Fields with
me; Drewyer passed the river and kept down the vally of the river. I had
intended to decend this river with it's course to it's junction with the
fork which I had ascended and from thence have taken across the country
obliquely to rose river and decend that stream to it's confluence with
Maria's river. the country through which this portion of Maria's river
passes to the fork which I ascended appears much more broken than that
above and between this and the mountains. I had scarcely ascended the
hills before I discovered to my left at the distance of a mile an
assembleage of about 30 horses, I halted and used my spye glass by the
help of which I discovered several indians on the top of an eminence just
above them who appeared to be looking down towards the river I presumed at
Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled. this was a very unpleasant
sight, however I resolved to make the best of our situation and to
approach them in a friendly manner. I directed J. Fields to display the
flag which I had brought for that purpose and advanced slowly toward them,
about this time they discovered us and appeared to run about in a very
confused manner as if much allarmed, their attention had been previously
so fixed on Drewyer that they did not discover us untill we had began to
advance upon them, some of them decended the hill on which they were and
drove their horses within shot of it's summit and again returned to the
hight as if to wate our arrival or to defend themselves. I calculated on
their number being nearly or quite equal to that of their horses, that our
runing would invite pursuit as it would convince them that we were their
enimies and our horses were so indifferent that we could not hope to make
our escape by flight; added to this Drewyer was seperated from us and I
feared that his not being apprized of the indians in the event of our
attempting to escape he would most probably fall a sacrefice. under these
considerations I still advanced towards them; when we had arrived within a
quarter of a mile of them, one of them mounted his horse and rode full
speed towards us, which when I discovered I halted and alighted from my
horse; he came within a hundred paces halted looked at us and turned his
horse about and returned as briskly to his party as he had advanced; while
he halted near us I held out my hand and becconed to him to approach but
he paid no attention to my overtures. on his return to his party they all
decended the hill and mounted their horses and advanced towards us leaving
their horses behind them, we also advanced to meet them. I counted eight
of them but still supposed that there were others concealed as there were
several other horses saddled. I told the two men with me that I
apprehended that these were the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie and from
their known character I expected that we were to have some difficulty with
them; that if they thought themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced
they would attempt to rob us in which case be their numbers what they
would I should resist to the last extremity prefering death to that of
being deprived of my papers instruments and gun and desired that they
would form the same resolution and be allert and on their guard. when we
arrived within a hundred yards of each other the indians except one halted
I directed the two men with me to do the same and advanced singly to meet
the indian with whom I shook hands and passed on to those in his rear, as
he did also to the two men in my rear; we now all assembled and alighted
from our horses; the Indians soon asked to smoke with us, but I told them
that the man whom they had seen pass down the river had my pipe and we
could not smoke untill he joined us. I requested as they had seen which
way he went that they would one of them go with one of my men in surch of
him, this they readily concented to and a young man set out with R. Fields
in surch of Drewyer. I now asked them by sighns if they were the
Minnetares of the North which they answered in the affermative; I asked if
there was any cheif among them and they pointed out 3 I did not believe
them however I thought it best to please them and gave to one a medal to a
second a flag and to the third a handkercheif, with which they appeared
well satisfyed. they appeared much agitated with our first interview from
which they had scarcely yet recovered, in fact I beleive they were more
allarmed at this accedental interview than we were. from no more of them
appearing I now concluded they were only eight in number and became much
better satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we could
mannage that number should they attempt any hostile measures. as it was
growing late in the evening I proposed that we should remove to the
nearest part of the river and encamp together, I told them that I was glad
to see them and had a great deel to say to them. we mounted our horses and
rode towards the river which was at but a short distance, on our way we
were joined by Drewyer Fields and the indian. we decended a very steep
bluff about 250 feet high to the river where there was a small bottom of
nearly 1/2 a mile in length and about 250 yards wide in the widest part,
the river washed the bluffs both above and below us and through it's
course in this part is very deep; the bluffs are so steep that there are
but few places where they could be ascended, and are broken in several
places by deep nitches which extend back from the river several hundred
yards, their bluffs being so steep that it is impossible to ascend them;
in this bottom there stand tree solitary trees near one of which the
indians formed a large simicircular camp of dressed buffaloe skins and
invited us to partake of their shelter which Drewyer and myself accepted
and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front of the sheter. with the
assistance of Drewyer I had much conversation with these people in the
course of the evening. I learned from them that they were a part of a
large band which lay encamped at present near the foot of the rocky
mountains on the main branch of Maria's river one 1/2 days march from our
present encampment; that there was a whiteman with their band; that there
was another large band of their nation hunting buffaloe near the broken
mountains and were on there way to the mouth of Maria's river where they
would probably be in the course of a few days. they also informed us that
from hence to the establishment where they trade on the Suskasawan river
is only 6 days easy march or such as they usually travel with their women
and childred which may be estimated at about 150 ms. that from these
traders they obtain arm amunition sperituous liquor blankets &c in
exchange for wolves and some beaver skins. I told these people that I had
come a great way from the East up the large river which runs towards the
rising sun, that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and had
seen a great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and trade with
me on the rivers on this side of the mountains, that I had found most of
them at war with their neighbours and had succeeded in restoring peace
among them, that I was now on my way home and had left my party at the
falls of the missouri with orders to decend that river to the entrance of
Maria's river and there wait my arrival and that I had come in surch of
them in order to prevail on them to be at peace with their neighbours
particularly those on the West side of the mountains and to engage them to
come and trade with me when the establishment is made at the entrance of
this river to all which they readily gave their assent and declared it to
be their wish to be at peace with the Tushepahs whom they said had killed
a number of their relations lately and pointed to several of those present
who had cut their hair as an evidince of the truth of what they had
asserted. I found them extreemly fond of smoking and plyed them with the
pipe untill late at night. I told them that if they intended to do as I
wished them they would send some of their young men to their band with an
invitation to their chiefs and warriors to bring the whiteman with them
and come down and council with me at the entrance of Maria's river and
that the ballance of them would accompany me to that place, where I was
anxious now to meet my men as I had been absent from them some time and
knew that they would be uneasy untill they saw me. that if they would go
with me I would give them 10 horses and some tobacco. to this proposition
they made no reply, I took the first watch tonight and set up untill half
after eleven; the indians by this time were all asleep, I roused up R.
Fields and laid down myself; I directed Fields to watch the movements of
the indians and if any of them left the camp to awake us all as I
apprehended they would attampt to seal steal our horses. this being done I
fell into a profound sleep and did not wake untill the noise of the men
and indians awoke me a little after light in the morning.
[Lewis, July 27, 1806]
July 27th 1806 Sunday. This morning at day light the indians got up and
crouded around the fire, J. Fields who was on post had carelessly laid his
gun down behid him near where his brother was sleeping, one of the indians
the fellow to whom I had given the medal last evening sliped behind him
and took his gun and that of his brothers unperceived by him, at the same
instant two others advanced and seized the guns of Drewyer and myself, J.
Fields seing this turned about to look for his gun and saw the fellow just
runing off with her and his brothers he called to his brother who
instantly jumped up and pursued the indian with him whom they overtook at
the distance of 50 or 60 paces from the camp sized their guns and rested
them from him and R Fields as he seized his gun stabed the indian to the
heart with his knife the fellow ran about 15 steps and fell dead; of this
I did not know untill afterwards, having recovered their guns they ran
back instantly to the camp; Drewyer who was awake saw the indian take hold
of his gun and instantly jumped up and sized her and rested her from him
but the indian still retained his pouch, his jumping up and crying damn
you let go my gun awakened me I jumped up and asked what was the matter
which I quickly learned when I saw drewyer in a scuffle with the indian
for his gun. I reached to seize my gun but found her gone, I then drew a
pistol from my holster and terning myself about saw the indian making off
with my gun I ran at him with my pistol and bid him lay down my gun which
he was in the act of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up their
guns to shoot him which I forbid as he did not appear to be about to make
any resistance or commit any offensive act, he droped the gun and walked
slowly off, I picked her up instantly, Drewyer having about this time
recovered his gun and pouch asked me if he might not kill the fellow which
I also forbid as the indian did not appear to wish to kill us, as soon as
they found us all in possession of our arms they ran and indeavored to
drive off all the horses I now hollowed to the men and told them to fire
on them if they attempted to drive off our horses, they accordingly
pursued the main party who were drying the horses up the river and I
pursued the man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off a
part of the horses which were to the left of the camp, I pursued them so
closely that they could not take twelve of their own horses but continued
to drive one of mine with some others; at the distance of three hundred
paces they entered one of those steep nitches in the bluff with the horses
before them being nearly out of breath I could pursue no further, I called
to them as I had done several times before that I would shoot them if they
did not give me my horse and raised my gun, one of them jumped behind a
rock and spoke to the other who turned arround and stoped at the distance
of 30 steps from me and I shot him through the belly, he fell to his knees
and on his wright elbow from which position he partly raised himself up
and fired at me, and turning himself about crawled in behind a rock which
was a few feet from him. he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind
of his bullet very distinctly. not having my shotpouch I could not reload
my peice and as there were two of them behind good shelters from me I did
not think it prudent to rush on them with my pistol which had I discharged
I had not the means of reloading untill I reached camp; I therefore
returned leasurely towards camp, on my way I met with Drewyer who having
heared the report of the guns had returned in surch of me and left the
Fieldes to pursue the indians, I desired him to haisten to the camp with
me and assist in catching as many of the indian horses as were necessary and
to call to the Fieldes if he could make them hear to come back that we
still had a sufficient number of horses, this he did but they were too far
to hear him. we reached the camp and began to catch the horses and saddle
them and put on the packs. the reason I had not my pouch with me was that
I had not time to return about 50 yards to camp after geting my gun before
I was obliged to pursue the indians or suffer them to collect and drive
off all the horses. we had caught and saddled the horses and began to
arrange the packs when the Fieldses returned with four of our horses; we
left one of our horses and took four of the best of those of the indian's;
while the men were preparing the horses I put four sheilds and two bows
and quivers of arrows which had been left on the fire, with sundry other
articles; they left all their baggage at our mercy. they had but 2 guns
and one of them they left the others were armed with bows and arrows and
eyedaggs. the gun we took with us. I also retook the flagg but left the
medal about the neck of the dead man that they might be informed who we
were. we took some of their buffaloe meat and set out ascending the bluffs
by the same rout we had decended last evening leaving the ballance of nine
of their horses which we did not want. the Feildses told me that three of
the indians whom they pursued swam the river one of them on my horse. and
that two others ascended the hill and escaped from them with a part of
their horses, two I had pursued into the nitch one lay dead near the camp
and the eighth we could not account for but suppose that he ran off early
in the contest. having ascended the hill we took our course through a
beatiful level plain a little to the S of East. my design was to hasten to
the entrance of Maria's river as quick as possible in the hope of meeting
with the canoes and party at that place having no doubt but that they
would pursue us with a large party and as there was a band near the broken
mountains or probably between them and the mouth of that river we might
expect them to receive inteligence from us and arrive at that place nearly
as soon as we could, no time was therefore to be lost and we pushed our
horses as hard as they would bear. at 8 miles we passed a large branch 40
yds. wide which I called battle river. at 3 P.M. we arrived at rose river
about 5 miles above where we h ad passed it as we went out, having
traveled by my estimate compared with our former distances and couses
about 63 ms. here we halted an hour and a half took some refreshment and
suffered our horses to graize; the day proved warm but the late rains had
supplyed the little reservors in the plains with water and had put them in
fine order for traveling, our whole rout so far was as level as a bowling
green with but little stone and few prickly pears. after dinner we pursued
the bottoms of rose river but finding inconvenient to pass the river so
often we again ascended the hills on the S. W. side and took the open
plains; by dark we had traveled about 17 miles further, we now halted to
rest ourselves and horses about 2 hours, we killed a buffaloe cow and took
a small quantity of the meat. after refreshing ourselves we again set out
by moon light and traveled leasurely, heavy thunderclouds lowered arround
us on every quarter but that from which the moon gave us light. we
continued to pass immence herds of buffaloe all night as we had done in
the latter part of the day. we traveled untill 2 OCk in the morning having
come by my estimate after dark about 20 ms. we now turned out our horses
and laid ourselves down to rest in the plain very much fatiegued as may be
readily conceived. my indian horse carried me very well in short much
better than my own would have done and leaves me with but little reason to
complain of the robery.
[Lewis, July 28, 1806]
July 28th 1806 Monday. The morning proved fair, I slept sound but
fortunately awoke as day appeared, I awaked the men and directed the
horses to be saddled, I was so soar from my ride yesterday that I could
scarcely stand, and the men complained of being in a similar situation
however I encourged them by telling them that our own lives as well as
those of our friends and fellow travellers depended on our exertions at
this moment; they were allert soon prepared the horses and we again
resumed our march; the men proposed to pass the missouri at the grog
spring where rose river approaches it so nearly and pass down on the S. W.
side, to this I objected as it would delay us almost all day to reach the
point by this circuetous rout and would give the enemy time to surprise
and cut off the party at the point if they had arrived there, I told them
that we owed much to the safety of our friends and that we must wrisk our
lives on this occasion, that I should proceed immediately to the point and
if the party had not arrived that I would raft the missouri a small
distance above, hide our baggage and march on foot up the river through
the timber untill I met the canoes or joined them at the falls; I now told
them that it was my determination that if we were attacked in the plains
on our way to the point that the bridles of the horses should be tied
together and we would stand and defend them, or sell our lives as dear as
we could. we had proceeded about 12 miles on an East course when we found
ourselves near the missouri; we heared a report which we took to be that
of a gun but were not certain; still continuing down the N. E. bank of the
missouri about 8 miles further, being then within five miles of the grog
spring we heared the report of several rifles very distinctly on the river
to our right, we quickly repared to this joyfull sound and on arriving at
the bank of the river had the unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes
coming down. we hurried down from the bluff on which we were and joined
them striped our horses and gave them a final discharge imbrarking without
loss of time with our baggage. I now learned that they had brought all
things safe having sustaned no loss nor met with any accident of
importance. Wiser had cut his leg badly with a knife and was unable in
consequence to work. we decended the river opposite to our principal cash
which we proceeded to open after reconnoitering the adjacent country. we
found that the cash had caved in and most of the articles burried therin
were injured; I sustained the loss of two very large bear skins which I
much regret; most of the fur and baggage belonging to the men were
injured. the gunpowder corn flour poark and salt had sustained but little
injury the parched meal was spoiled or nearly so. having no time to air
these things which they much wanted we droped down to the point to take in
the several articles which had been buried at that place in several small
cashes; these we found in good order, and recovered every article except 3
traps belonging to Drewyer which could not be found. here as good fortune
would have it Sergt. Gass and Willard who brought the horses from the
falls joined us at 1 P.M. I had ordered them to bring down the horses to
this place in order to assist them in collecting meat which I had directed
them to kill and dry here for our voyage, presuming that they would have
arrived with the perogue and canoes at this place several days before my
return. having now nothing to detain us we passed over immediately to the
island in the entrance of Maria's river to launch the red perogue, but
found her so much decayed that it was impossible with the means we had to
repare her and therefore mearly took the nails and other ironwork's about
her which might be of service to us and left her. we now reimbarked on
board the white peroge and five small canoes and decended the river about
15 ms. and encamped on the S. W. side near a few cottonwood trees, one of
them being of the narrow leafed speceis and was the first of that kind
which we had remarked on our passage up the river. we encamped late but
having little meat I sent out a couple of hunters who soon returned with a
sufficient quantity of the flesh of a fat cow. there are immence
quantities of buffaloe and Elk about the junction of the Missouri and
Maria's rivers. — during the time we halted at the er.crance of
Maria's river we experienced a very heavy shower of rain and hail attended
with violent thunder and lightning.
[Lewis, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday July 29th 1806. Shortly after dark last evening a violent storm
came on from N. W. attended with rain hail Thunder and lightning which
continued the greater part of the night. no having the means of making a
shelter I lay in the water all night. the rain continued with but little
intermission all day. I intend halting as soon as the weather proves fair
in order to dry our baggage which much wants it. I placed the two Fieldses
and Colter and Collins in the two smallest canoes with orderes to hunt,
and kill meat for the party and obtain as many Elkskins as are necessary
to cover our canoes and furnish us with shelters from the rain. we set out
early and the currant being strong we proceeded with great rapidity. at 11
A.M. we passed that very interesting part of the Missouri where the
natural walls appear, particularly discribed in my outward bound journey.
we continued our rout untill late in the evening and encamped on the N. E.
side of the river at the same place we had encamped on the 29th of May
1805. on our way today we killed 9 bighorns of which I preserved the skins
and skeletons of 2 females and one male; the flesh of this aninmal is
extreemly delicate tender and well flavored, they are now in fine order.
their flesh both in colour and flavor much resembles mutton though it is
not so strong as our mutton. the eye is large and prominant, the puple of
a pale sea green and iris of a light yellowish brown colour. these animals
abound in this quarter keeping themselves principally confined to the
steep clifts and bluffs of the river. we saw immence hirds of buffaloe in
the high plains today on either hand of the river. saw but few Elk. the
brown Curloo has left the plains I presume it has raised it's young and
retired to some other climate and country. as I have been very particular
in my discription of the country as I ascended this river I presume it is
unnecesssesary here to add any-thing further on that subject. the river is
now nearly as high as it has been this season and is so thick with mud and
sand that it is with difficulty I can drink it. every little rivulet now
discharges a torrant of water bringing down immece boddies of mud sand and
filth from the plains and broken bluffs.
[Lewis, July 30, 1806]
Wednesday July 30th 1806. The rain still continued this morning it was
therefore unnecessary to remain as we could not dry our baggage I
Consequently set out early as usual and pursued my rout downwards. the
currant being strong and the men anxious to get on they plyed their oars
faithfully and we went at the rate of about seven miles an hour. we halted
several times in the course of the day to kill some bighorns being anxious
to procure a few more skins and skeletons of this animal; I was fortunate
enough to procure one other malle and female for this purpose which I had
prepared accordingly. seven others were killed by the party also 2
buffaloe one Elk 2 beaver with & a female brown bear with tallons 61/4
inches in length. I preserved the skin of this bear also with the tallons;
it was not large and in but low order. we arrived this evening at an
island about 2 ms. above Goodriches Island and encamped on it's N. E.
side. the rain continued with but little intermission all day; the air is
cold and extreemly disagreeable. nothing extraordinary happened today
[Lewis, July 31, 1806]
Thursday July 31st 1806. The rain still continuing I set out early and
proceeded on as fast as possible. at 9 A.M. we fell in with a large herd
of Elk of which we killed 15 and took their skins. the bottoms in the
latter part of the day became wider better timbered and abound in game.
the party killed 14 deer in the course of the day without attempting to
hunt but little for them. we also killed 2 bighorns and 1 beaver; saw but
few buffaloe. the river is still rising and excessively muddy more so I
think than I ever saw it. we experienced some very heavy showers of rain
today. we have been passing high pine hills all day. late in the evening
we came too on the N. E. side of the river and took sheter in some indian
lodges built of sticks, about 8 ms. below the entrance of North mountain
creek. these lodges appeared to have been built in the course of the last
winter. these lodges with the addition of some Elk skins afforded us a
good shelter from the rain which continued to fall powerfully all night. I
think it probable that the minnetares of Fort de Prarie visit this part of
the river; we meet with their old lodges in every bottom.
[Lewis, August 1, 1806]
Friday August 1st 1806. The rain still continuing I set out early as usual
and proceeded on at a good rate. at 9 A.M. we saw a large brown bear
swiming from an island to the main shore we pursued him and as he landed
Drewyer and myself shot and killed him; we took him on board the perogue
and continued our rout. at 11 A.M. we passed the entrance of Mussel shell
river. at 1 in the evening we arrived at a bottom on S. W. side where
there were several spacious Indian lodges built of sticks and an excellent
landing. as the rain still continued with but little intermission and
appearances seemed unfavorable to it's becomeing fair shortly, I
determined to halt at this place at least for this evening and indeavour
to dry my skins of the bighorn which had every appearance of spoiling, an
event which I would not should happen on any consideration as we have now
passed the country in which they are found and I therefore could not
supply the deficiency were I to loose these I have. I halted at this place
being about 15 ms. below Missel shell river, had fires built in the lodges
and my skins exposed to dry. shortly after we landed the rain ceased tho
it still continued cloudy all this evening. a white bear came within 50
paces of our camp before we perceived it; it stood erect on it's hinder
feet and looked at us with much apparent unconsern, we seized our guns
which are always by us and several of us fired at it and killed it. it was
a female in fine order, we fleesed it and extracted several gallons of
oil. this speceis of bar are rearly as poor at this season of the year as
the common black bear nor are they ever as fat as the black bear is found
in winter; as they feed principally on flesh, like the wolf, they are most
fatt when they can procure a sufficiency of food without rispect to the
season of the year. the oil of this bear is much harder than that of the
black bear being nearly as much so as the lard of a hog. the flesh is by
no means as agreeable as that of the black bear, or Yahkah or
partycoloured bear of the West side of the rocky mountains. on our way
today we killed a buck Elk in fine order the skins and a part of the flesh
of which we preserved. after encamping this evening the hunters killed 4
deer and a beaver. The Elk are now in fine order particularly the males.
their horns have obtained their full growth but have not yet shed the
velvet or skin which covers them. the does are found in large herds with
their young and a few young bucks with them. the old bucks yet herd
together in parties of two to 7 or 8.
[Lewis, August 2, 1806]
Saturday August 2cd 1806. The morning proved fair and I determined to
remain all day and dry the baggage and give the men an opportunity to dry
and air their skins and furr. had the powder parched meal and every
article which wanted drying exposed to the sun. the day proved warm fair
and favourable for our purpose. I permitted the Fieldses to go on a few
miles to hunt. by evening we had dryed our baggage and repacked it in
readiness to load and set out early in the morning. the river fell 18
inches since yesterday evening. the hunters killed several deer in the
course of the day. nothing remarkable took place today. we are all
extreemly anxious to reach the entrance of the Yellowstone river where we
expect to join Capt. Clark and party.
[Lewis, August 3, 1806]
Saturday August 3rd 1806. I arrose early this morning and had the perogue
and canoes loaded and set out at half after 6 A.M. we soon passed the
canoe of Colter and Collins who were on shore hunting, the men hailed them
but received no answer we proceeded, and shortly after overtook J. and R.
Fields who had killed 25 deer since they left us yesterday; deer are very
abundant in the timbered bottoms of the river and extreemly gentle. we did
not halt today to cook and dine as usual having directed that in future
the party should cook as much meat in the evening after encamping as would
be sufficient to serve them the next day; by this means we forward our
journey at least 12 or 15 miles Pr. day. we saw but few buffaloe in the
course of this day, tho a great number of Elk, deer, wolves, some bear,
beaver, geese a few ducks, the party coloured covus, one Callamet Eagle, a
number of bald Eagles, redheaded woodpeckers &c. we encamped this
evening on N. E. side of the river 2 ms. above our encampment of the 12th
of May 1805 soon after we encamp Drewyer killed a fat doe. the Fieldses
arrived at dark with the flesh of two fine bucks, besides which they had
killed two does since we passed them making in all 29 deer since yesterday
morning. Collins and Colter did not overtake us this evening.
[Lewis, August 4, 1806]
Monday August 4th 1806. Set out at 4 A.M. this morning. permited Willard
and Sergt. Ordway to exchange with the Feildses and take their small canoe
to hunt to-day. at 1/2 after eleven O'Ck. passed the entrance of big dry
river; found the water in this river about 60 yds. wide tho shallow. it
runs with a boald even currant. at 3 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of
Milk river where we halted a few minutes. this stream is full at present
and it's water is much the colour of that of the Missouri; it affords as
much water at present as Maria's river and I have no doubt extends itself
to a considerable distance North. during our halt we killed a very large
rattlesnake of the speceis common to our country. it had 176 scuta on the
abdomen and 25 on the tail, it's length 5 feet. the scutae on the tail
fully formed. after passing this river we saw several large herds of
buffaloe and Elk we killed one of each of these animals and took as much
of the flesh as we wished. we encamped this evening two miles below the
gulph on the N. E. side of the river. Tonight for the first time this
season I heard the small whippoorwill or goatsucker of the Missouri cry.
Colter and Collins have not yet overtaken us. Ordway and Willard delayed
so much time in hunting today that they did not overtake us untill about
midnight. they killed one bear and 2 deer. in passing a bend just below
the gulph it being dark they were drawn by the currant in among a parsel
of sawyers, under one of which the canoe was driven and throwed Willard
who was steering overboard; he caught the sawyer and held by it; Ordway
with the canoe drifted down about half a mile among the sawyers under a
falling bank, the canoe struck frequently but did not overset; he at
length gained the shore and returned by land to learn the fate of Willard
whom he found was yet on the sawyer; it was impossible for him to take the
canoe to his relief Willard at length tied a couple of sticks together
which had lodged against the sawyer on which he was and set himself a
drift among the sawyers which he fortunately escaped and was taken up
about a mile below by Ordway with the canoe; they sustained no loss on
this occasion. it was fortunate for Willard that he could swim tolerably
well.
[Lewis, August 5, 1806]
Tuesday August 5th 1806. Colter and Collins not having arrived induced me
to remain this morning for them. the hunters killed four deer this morning
near our encampment. I remained untill noon when I again reimbarked and
set out concluding that as Colter and Collins had not arrived by that time
that they had passed us after dark the night of the 3rd inst. as Sergt
Ordway informed me he should have done last evening had not the centinel
hailed him. we continued our rout untill late in the evening when I came
too and encamped on the South side about 10 miles below little dry river.
on our way we killed a fat cow and took as much of the flesh as was
necessary for us. The Feildses killed 2 large bear this evening one of
them measured nine feet from the extremity of the nose to that of his
tail, this is the largest bear except one that I have seen. we saw several
bear today as we passed but did not kill any of them. we also saw on our
way immence herds of buffaloe & Elk, many deer Antelopes, wolves,
geese Eagles &c. but few ducks or prarie hens. the geese cannot fly at
present; I saw a solitary Pillacon the other day in the same situation.
this happens from their sheding or casting the fathers of the wings at
this season.
[Lewis, August 6, 1806]
Wednesday August 6th 1806. A little after dark last evening a violent
storm arrose to the N. E. and shortly after came on attended with violent
Thunder lightning and some hail; the rain fell in a mere torrant and the
wind blew so violently that it was with difficulty I could have the small
canoes unloaded before they filled with water; they sustained no injury.
our situation was open and exposed to the storm. in attending to the
canoes I got wet to the skin and having no shelter on land I betook myself
to the orning of the perogue which I had, formed of Elkskin, here I
obtained a few hours of broken rest; the wind and rain continued almost
all night and the air became very cold. we set out early this morning and
decended the river about 10 miles below Porcupine river when the wind
became so violent that I laid by untill 4 P.M. the wind then abaiting in
some measure we again resumed our voyage, and decended the river about 5
miles below our encampment of the 1st of May 1805 where we halted for the
night on the S. W. side of the river. after halting we killed three fat
cows and a buck. we had previously killed today 4 deer a buck Elk and a
fat cow. in short game is so abundant and gentle that we kill it when we
please. the Feildses went on ahead this evening and we did not overtake
them. we saw several bear in the course of the day.
[Lewis, August 7, 1806]
Thursday August 7th 1806. It began to rain about midnight and continued
with but little intermission until 10 A.M. today. the air was cold and
extreemly unpleasant. we set out early resolving if possible to reach the
Yelowstone river today which was at the distance of 83 ms. from our
encampment of the last evening; the currant favoured our progress being
more rapid than yesterday, the men plyed their oars faithfully and we went
at a good rate. at 8 A.M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river which
has changed it's entrance since we passed it last year, falling in at
preasent about a quarter of a mile lower down. at or just below the
entrance of this river we meet with the first appearance of Coal birnt
hills and pumicestone, these appearances seem to be coextensive. here it
is also that we find the first Elm and dwarf cedar on the bluffs, the ash
first appears in the instance of one solletary tree at the Ash rapid,
about the Elk rapid and from thence down we occasionly meet with it
scattered through the bottoms but it is generally small. from Marthy's
river to Milk river on the N. E. side there is a most beautifull level
plain country; the soil is much more fertile here than above. we overtook
the Feildses at noon. they had killed 2 bear and seen 6 others, we saw and
fired on two from our perogue but killed neither of them. these bear
resort the river where they lie in wate at the crossing places of the game
for the Elk and weak cattle; when they procure a subject of either they
lie by the carcase and keep the wolves off untill they devour it. the bear
appear to be very abundant on this part of the river. we saw a number of
buffaloe Elk &c as we passed but did not detain to kill any of them.
we also saw an unusual flight of white gulls about the size of a pigeon
with the top of their heads black. at 4 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of
the Yellowstone river. I landed at the point and found that Capt. Clark
had been encamped at this place and from appearances had left it about 7
or 8 days. I found a paper on a pole at the point which mearly contained
my name in the hand wrighting of Capt. C. we also found the remnant of a
note which had been attatched to a peace of Elk's horns in the camp; from
this fragment I learned that game was scarce at the point and musquetoes
troublesome which were the reasons given for his going on; I also learnt
that he intended halting a few miles below where he intended waiting my
arrival. I now wrote a note directed to Colter and Collins provided they
were behind, ordering them to come on without loss of time; this note I
wraped in leather and attatced onto the same pole which Capt. C. had
planted at the point; this being done I instantly reimbarked and decended
the river in the hope of reaching Capt. C's camp before night. about 7
miles below the point on the S. W. shore I saw some meat that had been
lately fleased and hung on a pole; I directed Sergt. Ordway to go on shore
examine the place; on his return he reported that he saw the tracks of two
men which appeared so resent that he beleived they had been there today,
the fire he found at the plce was blaizing and appeared to have been
mended up afresh or within the course of an hour past. he found at this
place a part of a Chinnook hat which my men recognized as the hat of
Gibson; from these circumstances we included that Capt. C's camp could not
be distant and pursued our rout untill dark with the hope of reaching his
camp in this however we were disappointed and night coming on compelled us
to encamp on the N. E. shore in the next bottom above our encampment of
the 23rd and 24th of April 1805. as we came too a herd of buffaloe
assembled on the shore of which we killed a fat cow.
[Lewis, August 8, 1806]
Friday August 8th 1806. Beleiving from the recent appearances about the
fire which we past last evening that Capt Clark could be at no great
distance below I set out early; the wind heard from the N. E. but by the
force of the oars and currant we traveled at a good rate untill 10 A.M. by
which time we reached the center of the beaver bends about 8 ms. by water
and 3 by land above the entrance of White earth river. not finding Capt.
Clark I knew not what calculation to make with rispect to his halting and
therefore determined to proceed as tho he was not before me and leave the
rest to the chapter of accedents. at this place I found a good beach for
the purpose of drawing out the perogue and one of the canoes which wanted
corking and reparing. the men with me have not had leasure since we left
the West side of the Rocky mountains to dress any skins or make themselves
cloaths and most of them are therefore extreemly bare. I therefore
determined to halt at this place untill the perogue and canoe could be
repared and the men dress skins and make themselves the necessary
cloathing. we encamped on the N. E. side of the river; we found the
Musquetoes extreemly troublesome but in this rispect there is but little
choise of camps from hence down to St. Louis. from this place to the
little Missouri there is an abundance of game I shall therefore when I
leave this place travel at my leasure and avail myself of every
opportunity to collect and dry meat untill I provide a sufficient quantity
for our voyage not knowing what provision Capt C. has made in this
rispect. I formed a camp unloaded the canoes and perogue, had the latter
and one of the canoes drawn out to dry, fleased what meat we had collected
and hung it on poles in the sun, after which the men busied themselves in
dressing skins and making themselves cloaths. Drewyer killed 2 Elk and a
deer this evening. the air is cold yet the Musquetoes continue to be
troublesome.
[Lewis, August 9, 1806]
Saturday August 9th 1806. The day proved fair and favourable for our
purposes. the men were all engaged dressing skins and making themselves
cloathes except R & J. Fields whom I sent this morning over the river
with orders to proceed to the entrance of the White earth river in surch
of Capt. C. and to hunt and kill Elk or buffaloe should they find any
convenient to the river. in the evening these men returned and informed me
that they saw no appearance of Capt. Clark or party. they found no game
nor was there a buffaloe.to be seen in the plains as far as the eye could
reach. nothing remarkable took place in the course of the day. Colter and
Collins have not yet overtaken us I fear some missfortune has happened
them for their previous fidelity and orderly deportment induces me to
beleive that they would not thus intentionally delay. the Perogue is not
yet sufficiently dry for reparing. we have no pitch and will therefore be
compelled to use coal and tallow.
[Lewis, August 10, 1806]
Sunday August 10th 1806. The morning was somewhat cloudy I therefore
apprehended rain however it shortly after became fair. I hastened the
repairs which were necessary to the perogue and canoe which were
compleated by 2 P.M. those not engaged about this business employed
themselves as yester-day. at 4 in the evening it clouded up and began to
rain which puting a stop to the opperation of skindressing we had nothing
further to detain us, I therefore directed the vessels to be loaded and at
5 P.M. got under way the wind has blown very hard all day but did not
prove so much so this evening as absolutely to detain us. we decended this
evening as low nearly as the entrance of white Earth river and encamped on
the S. W. side. the musquetoes more than usually troublesome this evening.
[Lewis, August 11, 1806]
Monday August 11th 1806. We set out very early this morning. it being my
wish to arrive at the birnt hills by noon in order to take the latitude of
that place as it is the most northern point of the Missouri, enformed the
party of my design and requested that they would exert themselves to reach
the place in time as it would save us the delay of nearly one day; being
as anxious to get forward as I was they plyed their oars faithfully and we
proceeded rapidly. I had instructed the small canoes that if they saw any
game on the river to halt and kill it and follow on; however we saw but
little game untill about 9 A.M. when we came up with a buffaloe swiming
the river which I shot and killed; leaving the small canoes to dress it
and bring on the meat I proceeded. we had gone but little way before I saw
a very large grizzly bear and put too in order to kill it, but it took
wind of us and ran off. the small canoes overtook us and informed that the
flesh of the buffaloe was unfit for uce and that they had therefore left
it half after 11 A.M. we saw a large herd of Elk on the N. E. shore and I
directed the men in the small canoes to halt and kill some of them and
continued on in the perogue to the birnt hills; when I arrived here it was
about 20 minutes after noon and of course the observation for the O's
meridian Altitude was lost; jus opposite to the birnt hills there happened
to be a herd of Elk on a thick willow bar and finding that my observation
was lost for the present I determined to land and kill some of them
accordingly we put too and I went out with Cruzatte only. we fired on the
Elk I killed one and he wounded another, we reloaded our guns and took
different routs through the thick willows in pursuit of the Elk; I was in
the act of firing on the Elk a second time when a ball struck my left thye
about an inch below my hip joint, missing the bone it passed through the
left thye and cut the thickness of the bullet across the hinder part of
the right thye; the stroke was very severe; I instantly supposed that
Cruzatte had shot me in mistake for an Elk as I was dressed in brown
leather and he cannot see very well; under this impression I called out to
him damn you, you have shot me, and looked towards the place from whence
the ball had come, seeing nothing I called Cruzatte several times as loud
as I could but received no answer; I was now preswaded that it was an
indian that had shot me as the report of the gun did not appear to be more
than 40 paces from me and Cruzatte appeared to be out of hearing of me; in
this situation not knowing how many indians there might be concealed in
the bushes I thought best to make good my retreat to the perogue, calling
out as I ran for the first hundred paces as loud as I could to Cruzatte to
retreat that there were indians hoping to allarm him in time to make his
escape also; I still retained the charge in my gun which I was about to
discharge at the moment the ball struck me. when I arrived in sight of the
perogue I called the men to their arms to which they flew in an instant, I
told them that I was wounded but I hoped not mortally, by an indian I
beleived and directed them to follow me that I would return & give
them battle and releive Cruzatte if possible who I feared had fallen into
their hands; the men followed me as they were bid and I returned about a
hundred paces when my wounds became so painfull and my thye so stiff that
I could scarcely get on; in short I was compelled to halt and ordered the
men to proceed and if they found themselves overpowered by numbers to
retreat in order keeping up a fire. I now got back to the perogue as well
as I could and prepared my self with a pistol my rifle and air-gun being
determined as a retreat was impracticable to sell my life as deerly as
possible. in this state of anxiety and suspense remained about 20 minutes
when the party returned with Cruzatte and reported that there were no
indians nor the appearance of any; Cruzatte seemed much allarmed and
declared if he had shot me it was not his intention, that he had shot an
Elk in the willows after he left or seperated from me. I asked him whether
he did not hear me when I called to him so frequently which he absolutely
denied. I do not beleive that the fellow did it intentionally but after
finding that he had shot me was anxious to conceal his knowledge of having
done so. the ball had lodged in my breeches which I knew to be the ball of
the short rifles such as that he had, and there being no person out with
me but him and no indians that we could discover I have no doubt in my own
mind of his having shot me. with the assistance of Sergt. Gass I took off
my cloaths and dressed my wounds myself as well as I could, introducing
tents of patent lint into the ball holes, the wounds blead considerably
but I was hapy to find that it had touched neither bone nor artery. I sent
the men to dress the two Elk which Cruzatte and myself had killed which
they did in a few minutes and brought the meat to the river. the small
canoes came up shortly after with the flesh of one Elk. my wounds being so
situated that I could not without infinite pain make an observation I
determined to relinquish it and proceeded on. we came within eight miles
of our encampment of the 15th of April 1805 and encamped on N. E. side. as
it was painfull to me to be removed I slept on board the perogue; the pain
I experienced excited a high fever and I had a very uncomfortable night.
at 4 P.M. we passed an encampment which had been evacuated this morning by
Capt. Clark, here I found a note from Capt. C. informing me that he had
left a letter for me at the entrance of the Yelow stone river, but that
Sergt. Pryor who had passed that place since he left it had taken the
letter; that Sergt. Pryor having been robed of all his horses had decended
the Yelowstone river in skin canoes and had over taken him at this
encampment. this I fear puts an end to our prospects of obtaining the
Sioux Cheifs to accompany us as we have not now leasure to send and enjage
Mr. Heney on this service, or at least he would not have time to engage
them to go as early as it is absolutely necessary we should decend the
river.
[Lewis, August 12, 1806]
Thursday August 12th 1806. Being anxious to overtake Capt. Clark who from
the appearance of his camps could be at no great distance before me, we
set out early and proceeded with all possible expedition at 8 A.M. the
bowsman informed me that there was a canoe and a camp he beleived of
whitemen on the N. E. shore. I directed the perogue and canoes to come too
at this place and found it to be the camp of two hunters from the Illinois
by name Joseph Dickson and Forest Hancock. these men informed me that
Capt. C. had passed them about noon the day before. they also informed me
that they had left the Illinois in the summer 1804 since which time they
had been ascended the Missouri, hunting and traping beaver; that they had
been robed by the indians and the former wounded last winter by the Tetons
of the birnt woods; that they had hitherto been unsuccessfull in their
voyage having as yet caught but little beaver, but were still determined
to proceed. I gave them a short discription of the Missouri, a list of
distances to the most conspicuous streams and remarkable places on the
river above and pointed out to them the places where the beaver most
abounded. I also gave them a file and a couple of pounds of powder with
some lead. these were articles which they assured me they were in great
want of. I remained with these men an hour and a half when I took leave of
them and proceeded. while I halted with these men Colter and Collins who
seperated from us on the 3rd ist. rejoined us. they were well no accedent
having happened. they informed me that after proceeding the first day and
not overtaking us that they had concluded that we were behind and had
delayed several days in waiting for us and had thus been unable to join us
untill the present momet. my wounds felt very stiff and soar this morning
but gave me no considerable pain. there was much less inflamation than I
had reason to apprehend there would be. I had last evening applyed a
poltice of peruvian barks at 1 P.M. I overtook Capt. Clark and party and
had the pleasure of finding them all well. as wrighting in my present
situation is extreemly painfull to me I shall desist untill I recover and
leave to my frind Capt. C. the continuation of our journal. however I must
notice a singular Cherry which is found on the Missouri in the bottom
lands about the beaverbends and some little distance below the white earth
river. this production is not very abundant even in the small tract of
country to which it seems to be confined. the stem is compound erect and
subdivided or branching without any regular order it rises to the hight of
eight or ten feet seldom puting up more than one stem from the same root
not growing in cops as the Choke Cherry dose. the bark is smooth and of a
dark brown colour. the leaf is peteolate, oval accutely pointed at it's
apex, from one and a 1/4 to 11/2 inches in length and from 1/2 to 3/4 of
an inch in width, finely or minutely serrate, pale green and free from
bubessence. the fruit is a globular berry about the size of a buck-shot of
a fine scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U States each is
supported by a seperate celindric flexable branch peduncle which issue
from the extremities of the boughs the peduncle of this cherry swells as
it approahes the fruit being largest at the point of insertion. the pulp
of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and is now ripe. the style
and stigma are permanent. I have never seen it in blume.
[Clark, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806 we colected our horses and after brackfast I took
My leave of Capt Lewis and the indians and at 8 A M Set out with ____ men
interpreter Shabono & his wife & child (as an interpreter &
interpretess for the Crow Inds and the latter for the Shoshoni) with 50
horses. we proceeded on through the Vally of Clarks river on the West Side
of the river nearly South 18 Miles and halted on the upper Side of a large
Creek, haveing Crossed 8 Streams 4 of which were Small. this vally is from
10 to 15 Ms. in width tolerably leavel and partially timberd with long
leaf & pitch pine, Some cotton wood, Birch, and Sweet willow on the
borders of the Streams. I observed 2 Species of Clover in this vally one
the white Clover Common in the Western parts of the U. States, the other
Species which is much Smaller than either the red or white both it's leaf
& blossom the horses are excessively fond of this Species. after
letting our horses graze a Sufficient length of time to fill themselves,
and taking dinner of Venison we again resumed our journey up the Vally
which we found more boutifully versified with Small open plains covered
with a great variety of Sweet cented plants, flowers & grass. this
evening we Crossed 10 Streams 8 of which were large Creeks which comes
roleing their Currents with Velocity into the river. those Creeks take
their rise in the mountains to the West which mountains is at this time
Covered with Snow for about 1/5 of the way from their tops downwards. Some
Snow is also to be Seen on the high points and hollows of the Mountains to
the East of us. our Course this evening was nearly South 18 Ms. makeing a
total of 36 miles today. we encamped on the N. Side of a large Creek where
we found tolerable food for our horses. Labeish killed a Deer this
evening. We Saw great numbers of deer and 1 bear today. I also observed
the burring Squirel of the Species Common about the quawmarsh flatts West
of the Rocky Mountains. Musquetors very troublesom. — one man Jo.
Potts very unwell this evening owing to rideing a hard trotting horse; I
give him a pill of Opiom which Soon releve him.
[Clark, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806 I order three hunters to Set out early this morning
to hunt & kill Some meat and by 7 A.M. we Collected our horses took
braekfast and Set out proceeded on up the Vally on the West Side of Clarks
river crossing three large deep and rapid Creeks, and two of a Smaller
Size to a Small branch in the Spurs of the mountain and dined. the last
Creek or river which we pass'd was So deep and the water So rapid that
Several of the horses were Sweped down Some distance and the Water run
over Several others which wet Several articles. after Crossing this little
river, I observed in the road the tracks of two men whome I prosume is of
the Shoshone nation. our hunters joined us with 2 deer in tolerable order.
on the Side of the Hill near the place we dined Saw a gange of Ibex or big
horn Animals I Shot at them running and missed. This being the day of the
decleration of Independence of the United States and a Day commonly
Scelebrated by my Country I had every disposition to Selebrate this day
and therefore halted early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner of a fat
Saddle of Venison and Mush of Cows (roots) after Dinner we proceeded on
about one mile to a very large Creek which we assended Some distance to
find a foard to cross in crossing this creek Several articles got wet, the
water was So Strong, alto the debth was not much above the horses belly,
the water passed over the backs and loads of the horses. those Creeks are
emensely rapid has great decnt the bottoms of the Creek as well as the low
lands on each Side is thickly covered with large Stone after passing this
Creek I inclined to the left and fell into the road on which we had passed
down last fall near the place we had dined on the 7th of Sept. and
continued on the road passing up on the W. Side of Clarks river 13 miles
to the West fork of Sd. river and Encamped on an arm of the same I Sent
out 2 men to hunt, and 3 in Serch of a foard to pass the river. at dark
they all returned and reported that they had found a place that the river
might be passed but with Some risque of the loads getting wet I order them
to get up their horses and accompany me to those places &c. our
hunters killed 4 deer to day. we made 30 ms. to day on a course nearly
South Vally from 8 to 10 mes. wide. contains a good portion of Pitch pine.
we passed three large deep rapid Creeks this after noon
[Clark, July 5, 1806]
Saturday July 5th 1806 I rose at day light this morning despatched Labeash
after a Buck which he killed late last evening; and I with the three men
who I had Sent in Serch of a ford across the West fork of Clarks river,
and examined each ford neither of them I thought would answer to pass the
fork without wetting all the loads. near one of those places pointed out
by Colter I found a practiable foard and returned to Camp, ordered
everything packed up and after Brackfast we Set out passed 5 Chanels of
the river which is divided by Small Islands in passing the 6th & last
Chanel Colter horse Swam and with Some dificuelty he made the Opposite
Shore, Shannon took a different derection from Colter rained his horse up
the Stream and passed over very well I derected all to follow Shannon and
pass quartering up the river which they done and passed over tolerably
well the water running over the back of the 2 Smaller horses only.
unfortunately my trunk & portmantue Containing Sea otter Skins flags
Some curiosites & necessary articles in them got wet, also an
esortment of Medicine, and my roots. about 1 mile we struk the East fork
which had fallen and was not higher than when we passed it last fall we
had not proceeded up this fork more than 1 mile eer we struck the road by
which we passed down last fall and kept it at one mile we crossed the
river at a very good foard and continued up on the East Side to the foot
of the Mountain nearly opposite flour Crek & halted to let our horses
graze and dry our wet articles. I saw fresh Sign of 2 horses and a fire
burning on the side of the road. I prosume that those indians are spies
from the Shoshones. Shannon & Crusat killed each a deer this morning
and J. Shields killed a female Ibex or bighorn on the side of the
Mountain, this Animal was very meager. Shannon left his tomahawk at the
place he killed his deer. I derect him to return for it and join me in the
Vally on the East Side of this mountain. gave Shields permission to
proceed on over to the 1st Vally and there hunt untill my arival this
evening at that place, after drying every article which detained us untill
1/2 past 4 P.M. we packed up and Crossed the Mountain into the vally where
we first met with the flatheads here I overtook Shields he had not killed
any thing. I crossed the river which heads in a high peecked mountain
Covered with Snow N. E. of the Vally at about 20 Miles. Shields informed
me that the Flat head indians passed up the Small Creek which we came down
last fall about 2 miles above our Encampment of the 4th & 5th of,
Septr. I proceeded up this South branch 2 Miles and encamped on the E.
side of the Creek, and Sent out several men to examine the road. Shields
returned at dark and informed me that the best road turned up the hill
from the creek 3 Miles higher up, and appeared to be a plain beaten parth.
as this rout of the Oat lash shoots can be followed it will evidently
Shorten our rout at least 2 days and as the indians informed me last fall
a much better rout than the one we came out. at all events I am deturmined
to make the attempt and follow their trail if possible if I can prosue it
my rout will be nearer and much better than the one we Came from the
Shoshones, & if I should not be able to follow their road; our rout
can't possibly be much wors. The hunters killed two deer this evening. The
after part of the day we only come 8 miles makeing a total of 20 Miles-.
Shannon Came up about Sunset haveing found his tomahawk.
[Clark, July 6, 1806]
Sunday 6th July 1806 Some frost this morning the last night was so cold
that I could not Sleep. we Collected our horses which were much scattered
which detained us untill 9 A.M. at which time we Set out and proceeded up
the Creek on which we camped 3 Miles and left the road which we came on
last fall to our right and assended a ridge with a gentle Slope to the
dividing mountain which Seperates the waters from the Middle fork of
Clarks river from those and Lewis's river and passed over prosueing the
rout of the Oat lash shute band which we met last fall to the head of a
branch of Wisdom R and down the Said branch crossing it frequently on each
Side of this handsom glades in which I observe great quantities of
quawmash just beginning to blume on each side of those glades the timber
is small and a great propotion of it Killed by the fires. I observe the
appearance of old buffalow roads and some heads on this part of the
mountain. The Snow appears to lying in considerable masses on the mountain
from which we decended on the 4th of Septr. last. I observe great numbers
of the whistleing Squirel which burrows their holes Scattered on each Side
of the glades through which we passed. Shields killed a hare of the large
mountain Species. the after part of the day we passed on the hill Side N
of the Creek for 6 Ms. Creek and entered an extensive open Leavel plain in
which the Indian trail Scattered in Such a manner that we Could not pursue
it. the Indian woman wife to Shabono informed me that she had been in this
plain frequently and knew it well that the Creek which we decended was a
branch of Wisdom river and when we assended the higher part of the plain
we would discover a gap in the mountains in our direction to the Canoes,
and when we arived at that gap we would See a high point of a mountain
covered with snow in our direction to the canoes. we proceeded on 1 mile
and Crossd. a large Creek from the right which heads in a Snow Mountain
and Fish Creek over which there was a road thro a gap. we assended a Small
rise and beheld an open boutifull Leavel Vally or plain of about 20 Miles
wide and near 60 long extending N & S. in every direction around which
I could see high points of Mountains Covered with Snow. I discovered one
at a distance very high covered with Snow which bore S. 80° E. The Squar
pointed to the gap through which she said we must pass which was S. 56° E.
She said we would pass the river before we reached the gap. we had not
proceeded more than 2 Miles in the last Creek, before a violent Storm of
wind accompand. with hard rain from the S W. imediately from off the Snow
Mountains this rain was Cold and lasted 11/2 hours. I discovd. the rain
wind as it approached and halted and formd. a solid column to protect our
Selves from the Violency of the gust. after it was over I proceeded on
about 5 Miles to Some Small dry timber on a Small Creek and encampd. made
large fires and dryed our Selves. here I observed Some fresh Indian Signs
where they had been gathering quawmash.
[Clark, July 7, 1806]
Monday 7th July 1806 This morning our horses were very much Scattered; I
Sent out men in every direction in Serch of them. they brought all except
9 by 6 oClock and informed me that they could not find those 9. I then
ordered 6 men to take horses and go different directions and at a greater
distance those men all returned by 10 A.M. and informed me that they had
circles in every direction to 6 or 8 miles around Camp and could not See
any Signs of them, that they had reasons to believe that the indians had
Stolen them in the course of the night, and founded their reasons on the
quallity of the horses, all being the most valuable horses we had, and
Several of them so attached to horses of inferior quallity which we have
they could not be Seperated from each other when driveing with their loads
on in the course of the day. I thought it probable that they might be
stolen by Some Skulking Shoshones, but as it was yet possible that they
may have taken our back rout or rambled to a greater distance I deturmined
to leave a Small party and hunt for them to day, and proceed on with the
main party and all the baggage to the Canoes, raise them out of the water
and expose them to the sun to dry by the time this party Should overtake
me. I left Sergt. Ordway, Shannon, Gibson Collins & Labeech with
directions to hunt this day for the horses without they Should discover
that the Inds. had taken them into the Mountains, and prosue our trail
&c. at 1/2 past 10 A M I set out and proceeded on through an open rich
vally crossing four large Creeks with extensive low and mirey bottoms, and
a Small river keeping the Course I had set out on S. 56° E after crossing
the river I kept up on the N E. side, Sometimes following an old road
which frequently disappeared, at the distance of 16 miles we arived at a
Boiling Spring Situated about 100 paces from a large Easterly fork of the
Small river in a leavel open vally plain and nearly opposit & E. of
the 3 forks of this little river which heads in the Snowey Mountains to
the S E. & S W of the Springs. this Spring contains a very
considerable quantity of water, and actually blubbers with heat for 20
paces below where it rises. it has every appearance of boiling, too hot
for a man to endure his hand in it 3 seconds. I directt Sergt. Pryor and
John Shields to put each a peice of meat in the water of different Sises.
the one about the Size of my 3 fingers Cooked dun in 25 minits the other
much thicker was 32 minits before it became Sufficiently dun. this water
boils up through some loose hard gritty Stone. a little sulferish after
takeing dininer and letting our horses graize 1 hour and a half we
proceeded on Crossed this easterly branch and up on the N. Side of this
middle fork 9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly branch and
passed through a gap of a mountain on the Easterly Side of which we
encamped near some butifull which fall into Willards Creek. I directed
that the rambling horses should be hobbled, and the Sentinal to examine
the horses after the moon rose. Emence beaver sign.
This extensive vally Surround with covered with snow is extreemly fertile
covered esculent plants &c and the Creeks which pass through it
contains emence numbers of beaver &c. I now take my leave of this
butifull extensive vally which I call the hot spring Vally, and behold one
less extensive and much more rugid on Willards Creek for near 12 miles in
length. remarkable Cold night
[Clark, July 8, 1806]
Tuesday July 8th 1806 Our horses being Scattered we were detained unill 8
A. M before we Set out. we proceeded on down Willards Creek on the S.W.
Side about 11 miles near which the Creek passes through the mountain we
then Steared S. 20° E. to the West branch of Jeffersons river in Snake
Indian cove about 7 miles and halded two hours to let the horses graize.
after dinner we proceeded on down the forke which is here but Small 9
Miles to our encampment of 17 Augt. at which place we Sunk our Canoes
& buried Some articles, as before mentioned the most of the Party with
me being Chewers of Tobacco become So impatient to be chewing it that they
Scercely gave themselves time to take their Saddles off their horses
before they were off to the deposit. I found every article Safe, except a
little damp. I gave to each man who used tobacco about two feet off a part
of a role took one third of the ballance myself and put up 2/3 in a box to
Send down with the most of the articles which had been left at this place,
by the Canoes to Capt. Lewis. as it was late nothing Could be done with
the Canoes this evening. I examined them and found then all Safe except
one of the largest which had a large hole in one Side & Split in bow.
The Country through which we passed to day was diversified high dry and
uneaven Stoney open plains and low bottoms very boggy with high mountains
on the tops and North sides of which there was Snow, great quantities of
the Species of hysoop & shrubs common to the Missouri plains are
Scattered in those Vallys and hill Sides. The road which we have traveled
from travellers rest Creek to this place an excellent road. and with only
a few trees being cut out of the way would be an excellent waggon road one
Mountain of about 4 miles over excepted which would require a little
digging The distance is 164 Miles-. Shields killed an antelope
[Clark, July 9, 1806]
Wednesday 9th July 1806 rose early had the horses brought up. after which
I had the Canoes raised washed, brough down and drawn up on Shore to dry
and repard. Set Several men to work digging for the Tobacco Capt. Lewis
informed me he had buried in the place the lodge Stood when we lay here
last Summer, they Serched diligently without finding anything. at 10 A M
Sergt. Ordway and party arrived with the horses we had lost. he reported
that he found those horses near the head of the Creek on which we
encamped, makeing off as fast as they could and much Scattered. nothing
material took place with his party in their absence. I had the Canoes
repared men & lodes appotioned ready to embark tomorrow morning. I
also formd. the party to accomp me to the river Rejhone from applicants
and apportioned what little baggage I intended to carry as also the Spear
horses. this day was windy and Cold. The Squar brought me a Plant the root
of which the nativs eat. this root most resembles a Carrot in form and
Size and Something of its colour, being of a pailer yellow than that of
our Carrot, the Stem and leaf is much like the Common Carrot, and the
taste not unlike. it is a native of moist land. — John Sheilds and
Collins each killed a Deer this morning. the wind dried our Canoes very
much they will be Sufficiently dry by tomorrow morning to Set out in them
down the river.
[Clark, July 10, 1806]
Thursday July 10th 1806 last night was very cold and this morning
everything was white with frost and the grass Stiff frozend. I had Some
water exposed in a bason in which the ice was 3/4 of an inch thick this
morning. I had all the Canoes put into the water and every article which
was intended to be Sent down put on board, and the horses collected and
packed with what fiew articles I intend takeing with me to the River
Rochejhone, and after brackfast we all Set out at the Same time &
proceeded on Down Jeffersons river on the East Side through Sarviss Vally
and rattle snake mountain and into that butifull and extensive Vally open
and fertile which we Call the beaver head Vally which is the Indian name
in their language Har na Hap pap Chah. from the No. of those animals in it
& a pt. of land resembling the head of one this Vally extends from the
rattle Snake Mountain down Jeffersons river as low as fraziers Creek above
the big horn mountain and is from 12 to 30 miles in width and ____ miles
on a direct line in length and Jeffersons river in passing through this
Vally reives McNeals Creek, Track Creek, Phalanthrophy river, Wisdom
river, Fields river and Fraziers Creek each throw in a considerable
quantity of water and have innoumerable beaver and otter on them; the
bushes in their low bottoms are the resort for great numbers of Deer, and
in the higher parts of the Vally we see Antelopes scattered feeding. I saw
also on the Sides of the rock in rattle snake mountain 15 big horn
animals, those animals feed on the grass which grow on the Sides of the
mountn. and in the narrow bottoms on the Water courses near the Steep
Sides of the mountains on which they can make their escape from the
pursute of wolves Bear &c. at Meridian I halted to let the horses
Graze having Come 15 Miles I ordered the to land. Sergt. Ordway informed
me that the party with him had Come on very well, and he thought the
Canoes could go as farst as the horses &c. as the river now become
wider and not So Sholl, I deturmined to put all the baggage &c. which
I intend takeing with me to the river Rochejhone in the canoes and proceed
on down with them myself to the 3 forks or Madisons & galletens
rivers. leaveing the horses to be taken down by Sergt. Pryor and 6 of the
men of the party to accompany me to the river Rochejhone and directed
Sergt. Pryor to proceed on moderately and if possible encamp with us every
night. after dinner had my baggage put on board and Set out, and proceeded
on tolerable well to the head of the 3000 Mile Island on which we had
encamped on the 11th of Augt last. the Canoes passed Six of my encampments
assending, opposit this island I encamped on the East side. the Musquetors
were troublesom all day and untill one hour after Sunset when it became
Cool and they disappeared. in passing down in the Course of this day we
saw great numbers of beaver lying on the Shores in the Sun. wild young
Gees and ducks are common in this river. we killed two young gees this
evening. I saw several large rattle Snakes in passing the rattle Snake
Mountain they were fierce.
[Clark, July 11, 1806]
Friday 11th July 1806 Sent on 4 of the best hunters in 2 Canoes to proceed
on a fiew miles a head and hunt untill I came up with them, after an early
brackfast I proceeded on down a very crooked Chanel, at 8 a. m I overtook
one Canoe with a Deer which Collins had killed, at meridian passed Sergt.
Pryors Camp near a high point of land on the left Side which the Shoshones
call the beavers head. the wind rose and blew with great violence from the
S W imediately off Some high mountains Covered with Snow. the violence of
this wind retarded our progress very much and the river being emencly
Crooked we had it imediately in our face nearly every bend. at 6 P M I
passed Phalanthrophy river which I proceved was very low. the wind Shifted
about to the N. E. and bley very hard tho much wormer than the forepart of
the day. at 7 P M I arrived at the Enterance of Wisdom River and Encampd.
in the Spot we had encamped the 6th of August last. here we found a
Bayonet which had been left & the Canoe quite safe. I directed that
all the nails be taken out of this Canoe and paddles to be made of her
Sides & here I came up with Gibson & Colter whome I had Sent on a
head for the purpose of hunting this morning, they had killed a fat Buck
and 5 young gees nearly grown. Wisdom river is very high and falling. I
have Seen great Nos. of Beaver on the banks and in the water as I passed
down to day, also some Deer and great numbers young gees, Sand hill cranes
&c. &c. Sgt. Pryor left a deer on the shore
[Clark, July 12, 1806]
Saturday 12th,July 1806 Sergt. Pryor did not join me last night he has
proceeded on down. the beaver was flacking in the river about us all the
last night. this Morning I was detained untill 7 A M makeing Paddles and
drawing the nails of the Canoe to be left at this place and the one we had
before left here. after completing the paddles &c and takeing Some
Brackfast I set out the Current I find much Stronger below the forks than
above and the river tolerably streight as low as panther Creek when it
became much more Crooked the Wind rose and blew hard off the Snowey
mountains to the N. W. and renderd it very difficuelt to keep the canoes
from running against the Shore at 2 P.M. the Canoe in which I was in was
driven by a Suden puff of wind under a log which projected over the water
from the bank, and the man in the Stern Howard was Caught in between the
Canoe and the log and a little hurt after disingaging our selves from this
log the canoe was driven imediately under a drift which projected over and
a little abov the Water, here the Canoe was very near turning over we with
much exertion after takeing out Some of the baggage hauled her out, and
proceeded on without receving any damage. the men in the other Canoes
Seeing our Situation landed and come with as much Speed as possible
through the briers and thick brush to our assistance. but from the
thickness of the brush did not get up to our assistance untill we had got
Clear. at 3 P M we halted at the enterance of Fields Creek and dined here
Willard and Collins over took us with two deer which they had killd. this
morning and by takeing a different Side of an Island from which we Came,
we had passed them. after dinner I proceeded on and Encamped a little
below our encampmt. of the 31st of July last. the Musquetoes very
troublesome this evening Some old buffalow Signs. I killed 4 young gees
and Collins killed 2 bever this evening.
[Clark, July 13, 1806]
Sunday 13th July 1806 Set out early this morning and proceded on very well
to the enterance of Madicines river at our old Encampment of the 27th July
last at 12 where I found Sergt. Pryor and party with the horses, they had
arived at this place one hour before us. his party had killed 6 deer &
a white bear I had all the horses driven across Madicine & gallitines
rivers and halted to dine and let the horses feed imediately below the
enterance of Gallitine. had all the baggage of the land party taken out of
the Canoes and after dinner the 6 Canoes and the party of 10 men under the
direction of Sergt. Ordway Set out. previous to their departur I gave
instructions how they were to proceed &c. I also wrote to Capt Lewis
by Sergt. Ordway-. my party now Consists of the following persons Viz:
Serjeant N. Pryor, Jo. Shields, G. Shannon William Bratton, Labiech,
Windsor, H. Hall, Gibson, Interpreter Shabono his wife & Child and my
man york; with 49 horses and a colt. the horses feet are very sore and
Several of them can Scercely proceed on. at 5. P. M I Set out from the
head of Missouri at the 3 forks, and proceeded on nearly East 4 miles and
Encamped on the bank of Gallitines River which is a butifull navigable
Stream. Saw a large Gange of Elk in the plains and Deer in the river
bottoms. I also observe beaver and Several otter in galletines river as I
passed along. Gibson killed an otter the fur of which was much longer and
whiter than any which I had Seen. Willard killed 2 deer this morning. all
the meat I had put into the Canoes except a Sufficiency for Supper. The
Country in the forks between Gallitins & Madisens rivers is a butifull
leavel plain Covered with low grass. — on the lower or N E. Side of
Gallitins river the Country rises gradually to the foot of a mountain
which runs nearly parrelal. those plains are indefferant or the Soil of
which is not very rich they are Stoney & Contain Several Stratas of
white rock. the Current of the river is rapid and near the mouth contains
Several islands, it is navigable for Canoes. I saw Several Antelope Common
Deer, wolves, beaver, Otter, Eagles, hawks, Crows, wild gees both old and
young, does &c. &c. I observe Several leading roads which appear
to pass to a gap of the mountain in a E. N E. direction about 18 or 20
miles distant. The indian woman who has been of great Service to me as a
pilot through this Country recommends a gap in the mountain more South
which I shall cross..
[Clark, July 14, 1806]
Monday 14th July 1806 Sent Sheilds a head to kill a deer for our brackfast
and at an early hour Set out with the party Crossed Gallitines river which
makes a Considerable bend to the N. E. and proceeded on nearly S. 78° E
through an open Leavel plain at 6 miles I Struck the river and crossed a
part of it and attemptd to proceed on through the river bottoms which was
Several Miles wide at this place, I crossed Several chanels of the river
running through the bottom in defferent directions. I proceeded on about
two miles crossing those defferent chanels all of which was damed with
beaver in Such a manner as to render the passage impracticable and after
Swamped as I may Say in this bottom of beaver I was compelled to turn
Short about to the right and after Some difficuelty made my way good to an
open low but firm plain which was an Island and extended nearly the Course
I wished to proceed. here the Squar informed me that there was a large
road passing through the upper part of this low plain from Madicins river
through the gap which I was Stearing my Course to. I proceeded up this
plain 4 miles and Crossed the main Chanel of the river, having passed
through a Skirt of cotton timber to an open low plain on the N E. Side of
the river and nooned it. the river is divided and on all the small Streams
inoumerable quantities of beaver dams, tho the river is yet navagable for
Canoes. I overtook Shields Soon after I set out; he had killed a large fat
Buck. I saw Elk deer & Antelopes, and great deel of old Signs of
buffalow. their roads is in every direction. The Indian woman informs me
that a fiew years ago Buffalow was very plenty in those plains &
Vallies quit as high as the head of Jeffersons river, but flew of them
ever come into those Vallys of late years owing to the Shoshones who are
fearfull of passing into the plains West of the mountains and Subsist on
what game they Can Catch in the Mountains principally and the fish which
they take in the E. fork of Lewis's river. Small parties of the Shoshones
do pass over to the plains for a few days at a time and kill buffalow for
their Skins and dried meat, and return imediately into the Mountains.
after Dinner we proceeded on a little to the South of East through an open
leavel plain to the three forks of the E branch of Gallitines River at
about 12 miles, crossed the most Southerly of those forks and Struck an
old buffalow road which I kept Continuing nearly the Same Course up the
middle fork Crossed it and Camped on a small branch of the middle fork on
the N E. Side at the commencement of the gap of the mountain — the
road leading up this branch, Several other roads all old Come in from the
right & left. emence quantities of beaver on this Fork quit down, and
their dams very much impeed the navigation of it from the 3 forks down,
tho I beleive it practicable for Small Canoes by unloading at a fiew of
the worst of those dams. Deer are plenty. Shannon Shields and Sergt. Pryor
each killed one which were very fat much more So than they are Commonly at
this Season of the year. The Main fork of Galletins River turn South and
enter them mountains which are yet Covered with Snow. Madisens river makes
a Great bend to the East and enters the Same mountain. a leavel plain
between the two rivers below the mountain.
[Clark, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday 15th July 1806 we collected our horses and after an early brackft
at 8 A M Set out and proceeded up the branch to the head thence over a low
gap in the mountain thence across the heads of the N E. branch of the fork
of Gallitins river which we Camped near last night passing over a low
dividing ridge to the head of a water Course which runs into the
Rochejhone, prosueing an old buffalow road which enlargenes by one which
joins it from the most Easterly branch of the East fork of Galetins R.
proceeding down the branch a little to the N. of East keeping on the North
Side of the branch to the River rochejhone at which place I arrived at 2 P
M. The Distance from the three forks of the Easterly fork of Galletines
river (from whence it may be navigated down with Small Canoes) to the
river Rochejhone is 18 miles on an excellent high dry firm road with very
incoiderable hills. from this river to the nearest part of the main fork
of Gallitine is 29 miles mostly through a leavel plain. from the head of
the Missouri at the 3 forks 48 miles through a leavel plain the most of
the way as may be seen by the remarks in the evening after the usial delay
of 3 hours to give the horses time to feed and rest and allowing our
Selves time also to Cook and eate Dinner, I proceeded on down the river on
an old buffalow road at the distance of 9 miles below the mountains Shield
River discharges itself into the Rochejhone on it's N W. side above a high
rocky Clift, this river is 35 yards wide deep and affords a great quantity
of water it heads in those Snowey Mountains to the N W with Howards Creek,
it contains some Timber Such as Cotton & willow in it's bottoms, and
Great numbers of beaver the river also abounds in those animals as far as
I have Seen.
passed the creek and over a high rocky hill and encamped in the upper part
of a large bottom. The horses feet are very sore many of them Can Scercely
proceed on over the Stone and gravel in every other respect they are Sound
and in good Sperits. I saw two black bear on the side of the mountains
this morning. Several gangs of Elk from 100 to 200 in a gangue on the
river, great numbers of Antelopes. one Elk only killed to day.
The Roche passes out of a high rugid mountain covered with Snow. the
bottoms are narrow within the mountains but widen from 1/2 a m. to 2 ms.
in the Vally below, those bottoms are Subject to over flow, they contain
Some tall Cotton wood, and willow rose bushes & rushes Honey suckle
&c. a Second bottom on the N E. Side which rises to about 20 feet
higher the first & is 1 m. wide this bottom is coars gravel pebils
& Sand with Some earth on which the grass grow very Short and at this
time is quit dry this 2d bottom over flows in high floods on the opposit
Side of the river the plain is much higher and extendes quite to the foot
of the mountain. The mountains to the S. S. E on the East side of the
river is rocky rugid and on them are great quantities of Snow. a bold Snow
mountain which bears East & is imediately at & N W of the 3 forks
of the East fork of Gallitins river may be Seen, there is also a high
rugid Mtn. on which is Snow bearing North 15 or 20 miles. but fiew flowers
to be Seen in those plains. low grass in the high plains, and the Common
corse grass, rushes and a species of rye is the growth of the low bottoms.
the mountains have Some scattering pine on them, and on the Spurs and hill
Sides there is some scrubby pine. I can See no timber Sufficient large for
a Canoe which will Carry more than 3 men and Such a one would be too Small
to answer my purpose
[Clark, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday 16th July 1806 I gave Labeech promission to proceed on early
this morning a head and kill a fat Elk or Buffalow. our horses haveing
rambled to a long distance down the river detained us much later than
Common. we did not Set out untill 9 A M. we had not proceeded on far
before I saw a buffalow & Sent Shannon to kill it this buffalow provd.
to be a very fat Bull I had most of the flesh brought on an a part of the
Skin to make mockersons for Some of our lame horses. proceeded on down the
river without finding any trees Sufficently large for a Canoe about 10
miles and halted having passed over to an Island on which there was good
food for our horses to let them graze & Dine. I have not Seen Labeech
as yet. Saw a large gangue of about 200 Elk and nearly as many Antilope
also two white or Grey Bear in the plains, one of them I Chased on horse
back about 2 miles to the rugid part of the plain where I was compelled to
give up the Chase two of the horses was So lame owing to their feet being
worn quit Smooth and to the quick, the hind feet was much the worst I had
Mockersons made of green Buffalow Skin and put on their feet which Seams
to releve them very much in passing over the Stoney plains. after dinner I
proceeded on Soon after I had set Out Labeech joined us with part of a fat
Elk which he had killed. I passed over a Stoney point at which place the
river runs Close to the high land on the N W. side crossed a small Creek
and Encamped on the river a little below its Enterance. Saw emence heards
of Elk feeding on the opposit side of the river. I saw a great number of
young gees in the river. one of the men brought me a fish of a species I
am unacquainted; it was 8 inches long formed like a trout. it's mouth was
placed like that of the Sturgeon a red streak passed down each Side from
the gills to the tail. The rocks which the high lands are faced with and
which may also be seen in perpendicular Straters in the high plains, is a
dark freestone. the greater part of this rock is of an excellent grit for
Grindstones hard and sharp. observe the Silkgrass Sunflower & Wild
indigo all in blume. but fiew other flowers are to be Seen in those
plains. The river and Creek bottoms abound in Cotton wood trees, tho none
of them Sufficiently large for Canoes. and the current of the Rochejhone
is too rapid to depend on Skinn canoes. no other alternetive for me but to
proceed on down untill I can find a tree Sufficently large &c. to make
a Canoe.
[Clark, July 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th July 1806 The rain of last night wet us all. I had the
horses all Collected early and Set out, proceeded ove the point of a ridge
and through an open low bottom crossed a large Creek which heads in a high
Snow toped Mountain to the N W. imediately opposit to the enterance of the
Creek one Something larger falls in from the high Snow mountains to the S
W. & South those Creeks I call Rivers across they contain Some timber
in their Vallys at the distance of ____ Miles by water we arive at the
enterance of two Small rivers or large Creeks which fall in nearly opposit
to each other the one on the N E side is 30 yards wide. I call it Otter
River the other Beaver R below the enterance of this Creek I halted as
usial to let the Horses graze &c. I saw a Single Pelicon which is the
first which I have Seen on this river. after Dinner I proceeded on Down
the Rochejhone passing over a low ridge through a Small bottom and on the
Side of a Stoney hill for 2 miles and through a Small bottom and again on
the Side of a high hill for 11/2 M. to a bottom in which we Incamped
opposit a Small Island. The high lands approach the river on either side
much nearer than it does above and their Sides are partially covered with
low pine & Cedar, none of which are Sufficently large for Canoes, nor
have I Seen a Cotton tree in the low bottoms Sufficently large for that
purpose. Buffalow is getting much more plenty than they were above. not so
many Elk & more deer Shannon killed one deer. I Saw in one of those
Small bottoms which I passed this evening an Indian fort which appears to
have been built last Summer. this fort was built of logs and bark. the
logs was put up very Closely capping on each other about 5 feet and
Closely chinked. around which bark was Set up on end so as to Cover the
Logs. the enterance was also guarded by a work on each Side of it and
faceing the river. this work is about 50 feet Diameter & nearly round.
the Squaw informs me that when the war parties find themselves pursued
they make those forts to defend themselves in from the pursuers whose
Superior numbers might other wise over power them and cut them off without
receiveing much injurey on hors back &c.
[Clark, July 18, 1806]
Friday 18th July 1806 as we were about Setting out this morning two
Buffalow Bulls came near our Camp Several of the men Shot at one of them.
their being near the river plunged in and Swam across to the opposit Side
and there died. Shabono was thrown from his horse to day in pursute of a
Buffaloe, the hose unfortunately Steping into a Braroe hole fell and threw
him over his head. he is a good deel brused on his hip Sholder & face.
after brackfast I proceeded on as usial, passd. over points of ridges So
as to cutoff bends of the river crossed a Small Muddy brook on which I
found great quantities of the Purple, yellow & black currents ripe.
they were of an excellent flavour. I think the purple Superior to any I
have ever tasted. The river here is about 200 yards wide rapid as usial
and the water gliding over corse gravel and round Stones of various sizes
of an excellent grite for whetestones. the bottoms of the river are
narrow. the hills are not exceeding 200 feet in hight the sides of them
are generally rocky and composed of rocks of the same texture of a dark
Colour of Grit well Calculated for grindstones &c. The high bottoms is
composed of gravel and Stone like those in the Chanel of the river, with a
mixture of earth of a dark brown colour The Country back from the river on
each Side is generally open wavering plains. Some pine is to be Seen in
every direction in those plains on the Sides of hills &c. at 11 A.M. I
observed a Smoke rise to the S. S. E in the plains towards the termonation
of the rocky mountains in that direction (which is Covered with Snow) this
Smoke must be raisd. by the Crow Indians in that direction as a Signal for
us, or other bands. I think it most probable that they have discovered our
trail and takeing us to be Shoshone &c. in Serch of them the Crow
Indians to trade as is their Custom, have made this Smoke to Shew where
they are-or otherwise takeing us to be their Enemy made this Signal for
other bands to be on their guard. I halted in a bottom of fine grass to
let the horses graze.
Shields killed a fat Buck on which we all Dined. after dinner and a delay
of 3 hours to allow the horses time to feed, we Set out at 4 P.M. I set
out and proceeded down the river through a butifull bottom, passing a
Indian fort on the head of a Small island near the Lard Shore and Encamped
on a Small Island Seperated from the Lard Shore by a very narrow Chanel.
Shields killed a Buffalow this evening which Caused me to halt sooner than
Common to Save Some of the flesh which was So rank and Strong that we took
but very little. Gibson in attempting to mount his horse after Shooting a
deer this evening fell and on a Snag and sent it nearly two inches into
the Muskeler part of his thy. he informs me this Snag was about 1 inch in
diamuter burnt at the end. this is a very bad wound and pains him
exceedingly. I dressed the wound.
[Clark, July 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th July 1806. I rose early and dressed Gibsons wound. he Slept
but very little last night and complains of great pain in his Knee and hip
as well as his thy. there being no timber on this part of the Rochjhone
sufficintly large for a Canoe and time is pracious as it is our wish to
get to the U States this Season, conclude to take Gibson in a litter if he
is not able to ride on down the river untill I can find a tree Sufficently
large for my purpose. I had the Strongest and jentlesst Horse Saddled and
placed Skins & blankets in Such a manner that when he was put on the
horse he felt himself in as easy a position as when lying. this was a
fortunate circunstance as he Could go much more at his ease than in a
litter. passed Rose bud river on Sd Side I proceeded on about 9 miles, and
halted to let the horses graze and let Gibson rest. his leg become So
numed from remaining in one position, as to render extreemly painfull to
him. I derected Shields to keep through the thick timber and examine for a
tree sufficently large & Sound to make a Canoe, and also hunt for Some
Wild Ginger for a Poltice for Gibsons wound. he joined me at dinner with 2
fat Bucks but found neither tree or Ginger. he informed me that 2 white
bear Chased him on horsback, each of which he Shot from his horse &c.
Currents are ripe and abundant, i, e, the Yellow, black & purple
spcies. we passed over two high points of Land from which I had a View of
the rocky Mounts. to the W. & S. S. E. all Covered with Snow. I also
Saw a low mountain in an Easterly direction. the high lands is partially
Covered with pine and form purpendcular Clifts on either side. afer dinner
I proceeded on the high lands become lower on either Side and those of the
Stard Side form Bluffs of a darkish yellow earth; the bottom widens to
Several Ms. on the Stard Side. the timber which cotton wood principally
Scattered on the borders of the river is larger than above. I have Seen
Some trees which would make very Small Canoes. Gibsons thy became So
painfull that he could not Set on the horse after rideing about 2 hours
and a half I directed Sergt Pryor and one man to continue with him under
the Shade of a tree for an hour and then proceed on to the place I Should
encamp which would be in the first good timber for canoes for the below.
It may be proper to observe that the emence Sworms of Grass hoppers have
distroyed every Sprig of Grass for maney miles on this Side of the river,
and appear to be progressing upwards. about 4 Miles below the place I left
Sergt. Pryor with Gibson found some large timber near which the grass was
tolerably good I Encamped under a thick grove of those trees which was not
Sufficiently large for my purpose, tho two of them would mak small Canoes.
I took Shields and proceeded on through a large timbered bottom imediately
below in Serch of better trees for Canoes, found Several about the Same
Size with those at my Camp. at dark I returned to Camp
Sergt. Pryor had arived with gibson. after my arival at this place the
hunters killed Seven Elk, four Deer, and I wounded a Buffalow very badly
near the Camp imediately after I arived. in the forepart of the day the
hunters killed two deer an Antelope & Shot two Bear. Shabono informed
me that he Saw an Indian on the high lands on the opposit Side of the
river, in the time I was absent in the woods. I saw a Smoke in the Same
direction with that which I had Seen on the 7th inst. it appeared to be in
the Mountains.
[Clark, July 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th July 1806 I directed Sergt. Pryor and Shields each of them
good judges of timber to proceed on down the river Six or 8 miles and
examine the bottoms if any larger trees than those near which we are
encamped can be found and return before twelve oClock. they Set out at
daylight. I also Sent Labech Shabono & hall to Skin & some of the
flesh of the Elk Labeech had killed last evening they returned with one
Skin the wolves haveing eaten the most of the other four Elk. I also Sent
two men in Serch of wood Soutable for ax handles. they found some choke
cherry which is the best wood which Can be precured in this Country. Saw a
Bear on an Island opposit and Several Elk. Sergt. Pryor and Shields
returned at half past 11 A M. and informed me that they had proceeded down
the timbered bottoms of the river for about 12 miles without finding a
tree better than those near my Camp. I deturmined to have two Canoes made
out of the largest of those trees and lash them together which will Cause
them to be Study and fully Sufficient to take my Small party & Self
with what little baggage we have down this river. had handles put in the 3
Axes and after Sharpening them with a file fell the two trees which I
intended for the two Canoes. those trees appeared tolerably Sound and will
make Canoes of 28 feet in length and about 16 or 18 inches deep and from
16 to 24 inches wide. the men with the three axes Set in and worked untill
dark. Sergt. Pryor dressed Some Skins to make him Clothes. Gibsons wound
looks very well. I dressed it. The horses being fatigued and their feet
very Sore, I Shall let them rest a fiew days. dureing which time the party
intended for to take them by land to the Mandans will dress their Skins
and make themselves Clothes to bare, as they are nearly naked. Shields
killed a Deer & Buffalow & Shannon a faun and a Buffalow &
York an Elk one of the buffalow was good meat. I had the best of him
brought in and cut thin and Spread out to dry.
[Clark, July 21, 1806]
Monday 21st July 1806 This morning I was informed that Half of our horses
were absent. Sent out Shannon Bratten, and Shabono to hunt them. Shabono
went up the river Shanon down and Bratten in the bottom near Camp, Shabono
and Bratten returned at 10 A M and informed me that they Saw no Signs of
the horses. Shannon proceeded on down the river about 14 miles and did not
return untill late in the evening, he was equally unsuckcessfull. Shannon
informed me that he Saw a remarkable large Lodge about 12 miles below,
covered with bushes and the top Deckorated with Skins &c and had the
appearance of haveing been built about 2 years. I Sent out two men on hors
back to kill a fat Cow which they did and returned in 3 hours the men work
very diligiently on the Canoes one of them nearly finished ready to put in
the water. Gibsons wound is beginning to heal. I am in great hope that it
will get well in time for him to accompany Sgt.
Pryor with the horses to the Mandans. This evening late a very black Cloud
from the S. E. accompanied with Thunder and lightning with hard winds
which Shifted about and was worm and disagreeable. I am apprehensive that
the indians have Stolen our horses, and probably those who had made the
Smoke a fiew days passed towards the S. W. I deturmined to have the
ballance of the horses guarded and for that purpose sent out 3 men, on
their approach near the horses were So alarmed that they ran away and
entered the woods and the men returned- a Great number of Geese which
raise their young on this river passed down frequently Since my arival at
this place. we appear to be in the beginning of the buffalow Country. the
plains are butifull and leavel but the Soil is but thin Stoney and in
maney parts of the plains & bottoms there are great quantity of
prickly pears. Saw Several herds of buffalow Since I arived at this Camp
also antilops, wolves, pigions, Dovs, Hawks, ravins, Crows, larks,
Sparrows, Eagles & bank martins &c. &c. The wolves which are
the constant attendants of the Buffalow are in great numbers on the Scerts
of those large gangues which are to be Seen in every direction in those
praries
[Clark, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of July 1806. The wind continued to blow very hard from the
N. E. and a little before day light was moderately Cool. I Sent Sergt.
Pryor and Shabono in Serch of the horses with directions to proceed up the
river as far as the 1st narrows and examine particularly for their tracks,
they returned at 3 P M and informed me that they had proceeded up the
distance I derected them to go and could See neither horses nor tracks;
the Plains imediately out from Camp is So dry and hard that the track of a
horse Cannot be Seen without close examination. I therefore derected
Sergt. Pryor Shannon Shabono & Bratten to incircle the Camp at Some
distance around and find the tracks of the horses and prosue them, they
Serched for tracks all the evening without finding which Course the horses
had taken, the plains being so remarkably hard and dry as to render it
impossible to See a track of a horse passing through the hard parts of
them. begin to Suspect that they are taken by the Indians and taken over
the hard plains to prevent our following them. my Suspicions is grounded
on the improbibility of the horses leaveing the grass and rushes of the
river bottoms of which they are very fond, and takeing imediately out into
the open dry plains where the grass is but Short and dry. if they had
Continued in the bottoms either up or down, their tracks Could be followed
very well. I directed Labeech who understands traking very well to Set out
early in the morning and find what rout the horses had taken if possible
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd July 1806. last night the wolves or dogs came into our Camp
and eat the most of our dryed meat which was on a scaffold Labeech went
out early agreeable to my directions of last evening. Sergt. Pryor and
Windser also went out. Sgt. pryor found an Indian Mockerson and a Small
piece of a roab, the mockerson worn out on the bottom & yet wet, and
have every appearance of haveing been worn but a fiew hours before. those
Indian Signs is Conclusive with me that they have taken the 24 horses
which we lost on the night of the 10th instant, and that those who were
about last night were in Serch of the ballance of our horses which they
could not find as they had fortunately got into a Small Prarie Serounded
with thick timber in the bottom. Labeech returned haveing taken a great
Circle and informed me that he Saw the tracks of the horses makeing off
into the open plains and were by the tracks going very fast. The Indians
who took the horses bent their course reather down the river. the men
finished both Canoes by 12 oClock to day, and I sent them to make Oars
& get poles after which I sent Shields and Labeech to kill a fat
Buffalow out of a gangue which has been in a fiew miles of us all day. I
gave Sergt Pryor his instructions and a letter to Mr. Haney and directed
that he G. Shannon & Windser take the remaining horses to the Mandans,
where he is to enquire for Mr. H. Heney if at the establishments on the
Assinniboin river to take 12 or 14 horses and proceed on to that place and
deliver Mr. Heney the letter which is with a view to engage Mr. Heney to
provale on some of the best informed and most influential Chiefs of the
different bands of Sieoux to accompany us to the Seat of our Government
with a view to let them See our population and resourses &c. which I
believe is the Surest garentee of Savage fidelity to any nation that of a
Governmt. possessing the power of punishing promptly every aggression.
Sergt. Pryor is directed to leave the ballance of the horses with the
grand Chief of the Mandans untill our arival at his village also to keep a
journal of the of his rout courses distances water courss Soil production,
& animals to be particularly noted. Shields and Labeech killed three
buffalow two of them very fat I had as much of the meat Saved as we could
Conveniently Carry. in the evening had the two Canoes put into the water
and lashed together ores and everything fixed ready to Set out early in
the morning, at which time I have derected Sergt. Pryor to Set out with
the horses and proceed on to the enterance of the big horn river at which
place the Canoes will meat him and Set him across the Rochejhone below the
enterance of that river.
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Speech for Yellowstone Indians Children. The Great Spirit has given a fair
and bright day for us to meet together in his View that he may inspect us
in this all we say and do.
Children I take you all by the hand as the children of your Great father
the President of the U. States of America who is the great chief of all
the white people towards the riseing sun.
Children This Great Chief who is Benevolent, just, wise & bountifull
has sent me and one other of his chiefs (who is at this time in the
country of the Blackfoot Indians) to all his read children on the
Missourei and its waters quite to the great lake of the West where the
land ends and the sun sets on the face of the great water, to know their
wants and inform him of them on our return.
Children We have been to the great lake of the west and are now on our
return to my country. I have seen all my read children quite to that great
lake and talked with them, and taken them by the hand in the name of their
great father the Great Chief of all the white people.
Children We did not see the ____ or the nations to the North. I have come
across over high mountains and bad road to this river to see the ____
Natn. I have come down the river from the foot of the great snowey
mountain to see you, and have looked in every detection for you, without
seeing you untill now
Children I heard from some of your people ____ nights past by my horses
who complained to me of your people haveing taken 24 of their cummerads.
Children The object of my comeing to see you is not to do you injurey but
to do you good the Great Chief of all the white people who has more goods
at his command than could be piled up in the circle of your camp, wishing
that all his read children should be happy has sent me here to know your
wants that he may supply them.
Children Your great father the Chief of the white people intends to build
a house and fill it with such things as you may want and exchange with you
for your skins & furs at a very low price. & has derected me to
enquire of you, at what place would be most convenient for to build this
house. and what articles you are in want of that he might send them
imediately on my return
Children The people in my country is like the grass in your plains
noumerous they are also rich and bountifull. and love their read brethren
who inhabit the waters of the Missoure
Children I have been out from my country two winters, I am pore necked and
nothing to keep of the rain. when I set out from my country I had a plenty
but have given it all to my read children whome I have seen on my way to
the Great Lake of the West. and have now nothing.
Children Your Great father will be very sorry to here of the ____ stealing
the horses of his Chiefs warrors whome he sent out to do good to his red
children on the waters of Missoure.
_____ their ears to his good counsels he will shut them and not let any
goods & guns be brought to the red people. but to those who open their
Ears to his counsels he will send every thing they want into their
country. and build a house where they may come to and be supplyed whenever
they wish.
Children Your Great father the Chief of all the white people has derected
me to inform his red children to be at peace with each other, and the
white people who may come into your country under the protection of the
Flag of your great father which you. those people who may visit you under
the protection of that flag are good people and will do you no harm
Children Your great father has detected me to tell you not to suffer your
young and thoughtless men to take the horses or property of your
neighbours or the white people, but to trade with them fairly and
honestly, as those of his red children below.
Children The red children of your great father who live near him and have
opened their ears to his counsels are rich and hapy have plenty of horses
cows & Hogs fowls bread &c.&c. live in good houses, and sleep
sound. and all those of his red children who inhabit the waters of the
Missouri who open their ears to what I say and follow the counsels of
their great father the President of the United States, will in a fiew
years be as hapy as those mentioned &c.
Children It is the wish of your Great father the Chief of all the white
people that some 2 of the principal Chiefs of this ____ Nation should
Visit him at his great city and receive from his own mouth. his good
counsels, and from his own hands his abundant gifts, Those of his red
children who visit him do not return with empty hands, he send them to
their nation loaded with presents
Children If any one two or 3 of your great chiefs wishes to visit your
great father and will go with me, he will send you back next Summer loaded
with presents and some goods for the nation. You will then see with your
own eyes and here with your own years what the white people can do for
you. they do not speak with two tongues nor promis what they can't perform
Children Consult together and give me an answer as soon as possible your
great father is anxious to here from (& see his red children who wish
to visit him) I cannot stay but must proceed on & inform him &c.
[Clark, July 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th July 1806. had all our baggage put on board of the two Small
Canoes which when lashed together is very Study and I am Convinced will
the party I intend takeing down with me. at 8 A M. we Set out and
proceeded on very well to a riffle about 1 mile above the enterance of
Clarks fork or big horn river at this riffle the Small Canoes took in a
good deel of water which obliged us to land a little above the enterance
of this river which the ____ has called Clarks fork to dry our articles
and bail the Canoes. I also had Buffalow Skin tacked on So as to prevent
the waters flacking in between the Two canoes. This last River is 150
yards wide at it's Mouth and 100 a Short destance up the water of a light
Muddy Colour and much Colder than that of the Rochejhone a Small Island is
Situated imediately in its mouth, the direction of this river is South and
East of that part of the rocky mountains which Can be seen from its
enterance and which Seem to termonate in that direction. — I thought
it probable that this might be the big horn river, and as the Rochejhone
appeared to make a great bend to the N. I deturmined to Set the horses
across on S. Side. one Chanel of the river passes under a high black bluff
from one mile below the place we built the Canoes to within 3 miles of the
enterance of Clarks fork when the bottoms widen on each side those on the
Stard Side from 1/2 to a mile in width. river much divided by Islands. at
6 ms. below the fork I halted on a large Island Seperated from the Stard.
Shore by a narrow Channel, on this This being a good place to Cross the
river I deturmined to wait for Sergt. pryor and put him across the river
at this place. on this Island I observd a large lodge the Same which
Shannon informed me of a fiew days past. this Lodge a council lodge, it is
of a Conocil form 60 feet diamuter at its base built of 20 poles each pole
21/2 feet in Secumpheranc and 45 feet Long built in the form of a lodge
& covered with bushes. in this Lodge I observed a Cedar bush Sticking
up on the opposit side of the lodge fronting the dore, on one side was a
Buffalow head, and on the other Several Sticks bent and Stuck in the
ground. a Stuffed Buffalow skin was Suspended from the Center with the
back down. the top of those poles were deckerated with feathers of the
Eagle & Calumet Eagle also Several Curious pieces of wood bent in
Circleler form with sticks across them in form of a Griddle hung on tops
of the lodge poles others in form of a large Sturrip. This Lodge was
errected last Summer. It is Situated in the Center of a butifull Island
thinly Covered with Cotton wood under which the earth which is rich is
Covered with wild rye and a Species of grass resembling the bluegrass, and
a mixture of Sweet grass which the Indian plat and ware around their necks
for its cent which is of a Strong sent like that of the Vinella after
Dinner I proceeded on passed the enterance of a Small Creek and Some wood
on the Stard. Side where I met with Sergt. Pryor, Shannon & Windser
with the horses they had but just arived at that place. Sergt. Pryor
informed me that it would be impossible for the two men with him to drive
on the horses after him without tireing all the good ones in pursute of
the more indifferent to keep them on the Course. that in passing every
gangue of buffalow Several of which he had met with, the loos horses as
Soon as they Saw the Buffalow would imediately pursue them and run around
them. All those that Speed suffient would head the buffalow and those of
less Speed would pursue on as fast as they Could. he at length found that
the only practiacable method would be for one of them to proceed on and
when ever they Saw a gang of Buffalow to Scear them off before the horses
got up. This disposition in the horses is no doubt owing to their being
frequently exercised in chasing different animals by their former owners
the Indians as it is their Custom to chase every Speces of wild animal
with horses, for which purpose they train all their horses. I had the
horses drove across the river and Set Sergt. Pryor and his party across.
H. Hall who cannot Swim expressed a Wiliness to proceed on with Sergt.
Pryor by land, and as another man was necessary to assist in driveing on
the horses, but observed he was necked, I gave him one of my two remaining
Shirts a par of Leather Legins and 3 pr. of mockersons which equipt him
Completely and Sent him on with the party by land to the Mandans. I
proceeded on the river much better than above the enterance of the Clarks
fork deep and the Current regularly rapid from 2 to 300 yards in width
where it is all together, much divided by islands maney of which are large
and well Supplyed with Cotton wood trees, Some of them large, Saw emenc
number of Deer Elk and buffalow on the banks. Some beaver. I landed on the
Lard Side walked out into the bottom and Killd the fatest Buck I every
Saw, Shields killed a deer and my man York killed a Buffalow Bull, as he
informed me for his tongue and marrow bones. for me to mention or give an
estimate of the differant Spcies of wild animals on this river
particularly Buffalow, Elk Antelopes & Wolves would be increditable. I
shall therefore be silent on the Subject further. So it is we have a great
abundance of the best of meat. we made 70 ms. to day Current rapid and
much divided by islands. Campd a little below Pryers river of 35 yds. on S
E.
[Clark, July 25, 1806]
Friday 25th July 1806. We Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on very well
for three hours. Saw a large gange of Buffalow on the Lard Bank. I
concluded to halt and kill a fat one, dureing which time Some brackfast
was ordered to be Cooked. we killed 2 Buffalow and took as much of their
flesh as I wished. Shields killed two fat deer and after a delay of one
hour and a half we again proceeded on. and had not proceeded far before a
heavy shower of rain pored down upon us, and the wind blew hard from the S
W. the wind increased and the rain continued to fall. I halted on the
Stard. Side had Some logs set up on end close together and Covered with
deerskins to keep off the rain, and a large fire made to dry ourselves.
the rain continued moderately untill near twelve oClock when it Cleared
away and become fair. the wind Contined high untill 2 P M. I proceeded on
after the rain lay a little and at 4 P M arived at a remarkable rock
Situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard. Side of the river & 250
paces from it. this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most extensive
view in every direction. This rock which I shall Call Pompy's Tower is 200
feet high and 400 paces in secumphrance and only axcessable on one Side
which is from the N. E the other parts of it being a perpendicular Clift
of lightish Coloured gritty rock on the top there is a tolerable Soil of
about 5 or 6 feet thick Covered with Short grass. The Indians have made 2
piles of Stone on the top of this Tower. The nativs have ingraved on the
face of this rock the figures of animals &c. near which I marked my
name and the day of the month & year. From the top of this Tower I
Could discover two low Mountains & the Rocky Mts. covered with Snow S
W. one of them appeard to be extencive and bore S. 15° E. about 40 miles.
the other I take to be what the indians Call the Little wolf Mtn. I can
only see the Southern extremity of it which bears N 55° W about 35 Miles.
The plains to the South rise from the distance of about 6 miles the width
of the bottom gradually to the mountains in that derection. a large Creek
with an extencive Vally the direction of which is S. 25° E. meanders
boutifully through this plain. a range of high land Covered with pine
appears to run in a N. & S. direction approaching the river below. on
the Northerly Side of the river high romantic Clifts approach &jut
over the water for Some distance both above and below. a large Brooks
which at this time has Some running muddy water falls in to the Rochejhone
imediately opposit Pompys Tower. back from the river for Some distance on
that Side the hills are ruged & some pine back the plains are open and
extensive. after Satisfying my Self Sufficiently in this delightfull
prospect of the extensive Country around, and the emence herds of
Buffalow, Elk and wolves in which it abounded, I decended and proceeded on
a fiew miles, Saw a gang of about 40 Big horn animals fired at them and
killed 2 on the Sides of the rocks which we did not get. I directed the
Canoes to land, and I walked up through a crevis in the rocks almost
inaxcessiable and killed 2 of those animals one a large doe and the other
a yearlin Buck. I wished very much to kill a large buck, had there been
one with the gang I Should have killd. him. dureing the time the men were
getting the two big horns which I had killed to the river I employed my
Self in getting pieces of the rib of a fish which was Semented within the
face of the rock this rib is about 3 inchs in Secumpherance about the
middle it is 3 feet in length tho a part of the end appears to have been
broken off I have Several peces of this rib the bone is neither decayed
nor petrified but very rotten. the part which I could not get out may be
Seen, it is about 6 or 7 Miles below Pompys Tower in the face of the Lard.
Clift about 20 feet above the water. after getting the big horn on board
&c I proceeded on a Short distance and encamped, an earlyer than I
intended on accout of a heavy cloud which was comeing up from the S. S W.
and Some appearance of a Violent wind. I walked out and killed a Small
Buck for his Skin which the party are in want of for Clothes. about Sunset
the wind blew hard from the W. and Some little rain. I encamped on the
Stard. Side imediately below the enteranc Shannons River about 22 Yards
wide, and at this time discharges a great portion of water which is very
Muddy. emence herds of Buffalow about our as it is now running time with
those animals the bulls keep Such a grunting nois which is very loud and
disagreeable Sound that we are compelled to Scear them away before we can
Sleep. the men fire Several Shot at them and Scear them away.
[Clark, July 26, 1806]
Saturday 26th July 1806. Set out this morning very early proceeded on
Passed Creeks very well. the Current of the river reagulilarly Swift much
divided by Stoney islands and bars also handsome Islands Covered with
Cotton wood the bottoms extensive on the Stard. Side on the Lard. the
Clifts of high land border the river, those clifts are composed of a
whitish rock of an excellent grit for Grindstones. The Country back on
each Side is wavering lands with Scattering pine. passed 2 Small Brooks on
the Stard. Side and two large ones on the Lard. Side. I shot a Buck from
the Canoe and killed one other on a Small Island. and late in the evening
passed a part of the river which was rock under the Lard. Clifts
fortunately for us we found an excellent Chanel to pass down on the right
of a Stony Island half a mile below this bad place, we arived at the
enterance of Big Horn River on the Stard. Side here I landed imediately in
the point which is a Sof mud mixed with the Sand and Subject to overflow
for Some distance back in between the two rivers. I walked up the big horn
1/2 a mile and crossed over to the lower Side, and formed a Camp on a high
point. I with one of my men Labeech walked up the N E Side of Big horn
river 7 miles to th enterance of a Creek which falls in on the N E. Side
and is 28 yds wide Some running water which is very muddy this Creek I
call Muddy Creek Some fiew miles above this Creek the river bent around to
the East of South. The Courses as I assended it as follows Viz:
The bottoms of the Big Horn river are extencive and Covered with timber
principally Cotton. it's Current is regularly Swift, like the Missouri, it
washes away its banks on one Side while it forms extensive Sand bars on
the other. Contains much less portion of large gravel than the R.
Rochjhone and its water more mudy and of a brownish colour, while that of
the rochejhone is of a lightish Colour. the width of those two rivers are
very nearly the Same imediately at their enterances the river Rochejhone
much the deepest and contain most water. I measured the debth of the
bighorn quit across a 1/2 a mile above its junction and found it from 5 to
7 feet only while that of the River is in the deepest part 10 or 12 feet
water on the lower Side of the bighorn is extencive boutifull and leavil
bottom thinly covered with Cotton wood under which there grows great
quantities of rose bushes. I am informed by the Menetarres Indians and
others that this River takes its rise in the Rocky mountains with the
heads of the river plate and at no great distance from the river
Rochejhone and passes between the Coat Nor or Black Mountains and the most
Easterly range of Rocky Mountains. it is very long and Contains a great
perpotion of timber on which there is a variety of wild animals,
perticularly the big horn which are to be found in great numbers on this
river. Buffalow, Elk, Deer and Antelopes are plenty and the river is Said
to abound in beaver. it is inhabited by a great number of roveing Indians
of the Crow Nation, the paunch Nation and the Castahanas all of those
nations who are Subdivided rove and prosue the Buffalow of which they make
their principal food, their Skins together with those of the Big horn and
Antilope Serve them for Clothes. This river is Said to be navagable a long
way for perogus without falls and waters a fine rich open Country. it is
200 yds water & 1/4 of a Me. wd. I returned to Camp a little after
dark, haveing killed one deer, finding my Self fatigued went to bead
without my Supper. Shields killed 2 Bull & 3 Elk.
[Clark, July 27, 1806]
Sunday 27th July 1806 I marked my name with red paint on a Cotton tree
near my Camp, and Set out at an early hour and proceeded on very well the
river is much wider from 4 to 600 yards much divided by Islands and Sand
bars, passed a large dry Creek at 15 miles and halted at the enterance of
River 50 yards wide on the Lard Side I call R. Labeech killed 4 Buffalow
and Saved as much of their flesh as we could Carry took brackfast. The
Buffalow and Elk is estonishingly noumerous on the banks of the river on
each Side, particularly the Elk which lay on almost every point in large
gang and are So jintle that we frequently pass within 20 or 30 paces of
them without their being the least alarmd. the buffalow are Generally at a
greater distance from the river, and keep a continueing bellowing in every
direction, much more beaver Sign than above the bighorn. I Saw Several of
those animals on the bank to day. the antilopes are Scerce as also the
bighorns and the deer by no means So plenty as they were near the Rocky
mountains. when we pass the Big horn I take my leave of the view of the
tremendious chain of Rocky Mountains white with Snow in view of which I
have been Since the 1st of May last.
about Sunset I Shot a very large fat buck elk from the Canoe near which I
encamped, and was near being bit by a rattle Snake. Shields killed a Deer
& a antilope to day for the Skins which the party is in want of for
Clothes. this river below the big horn river resembles the Missouri in
almost every perticular except that it's islands are more noumerous &
Current more rapid, it's banks are generally low and falling in the
bottoms on the Stard. Side low and exteneive and Covered with timber near
the river such as Cotton wood willow of the different Species rose bushes
and Grapevines together with the red berry or Buffalow Grees bushes &
a species of shoemake with dark brown back of those bottoms the Country
rises gradually to about 100 feet and has Some pine. back is leavel
plains. on the Lard Side the river runs under the clifts and Bluffs of
high which is from 70 to 150 feet in hight and near the river is Some
Scattering low pine back the plains become leavel and extencive. the
Clifts are Composed of a light gritty Stone which is not very hard. and
the round stone which is mixed with the Sand and formes bars is much
Smaller than they appeared from above the bighorn, and may here be termed
Gravel. the Colour of the water is a yellowish white and less muddy than
the Missouri below the mouth of this river.
[Clark, July 28, 1806]
Monday 28th July 1806. Set out this morning at day light and proceeded on
glideing down this Smooth Stream passing maney Isld. and Several Creeks
and brooks at 6 miles passed a Creek or brook of 80 yards wide on the N W.
Side Containing but little water. 6 miles lower passed a small Creek 20
yds wide on the Stard Side 18 Miles lower passed a large dry creek on the
Lard Side 5 Miles lower passed a river 70 yards wide Containing but little
water on the Lard Side which I call Table Creek from the tops of Several
mounds in the Plains to the N W. resembling a table. four miles Still
lower I arived at the enterance of a river 100 yards wide back of a Small
island on the South Side. it contains Some Cotton wood timber and has a
bold Current, it's water like those of all other Streams which I have
passed in the Canoes are muddy. I take this river to be the one the
Indians Call the Little Big Horn river. The Clifts on the South Side of
the Rochejhone are Generally compd. of a yellowish Gritty Soft rock,
whilest those of the N. is light Coloured and much harder in the evening I
passd. Straters of Coal in the banks on either Side those on the Stard.
Bluffs was about 30 feet above the water and in 2 vanes from 4 to 8 feet
thick, in a horozontal position. the Coal Contained in the Lard Bluffs is
in Several vaines of different hights and thickness. this Coal or
Carbonated wood is like that of the Missouri of an inferior quallity.
passed a large Creek on the Stard. Side between the 1st and 2nd Coal
Bluffs passed Several Brooks the chanel of them were wide and contained
but little running water, and encamped on the upper point of a Small
island opposit the enterance of a Creek 25 Yards wide on the Stard. Side
with water.
The Elk on the banks of the river were So abundant that we have not been
out of Sight of them to day. J Shields killed 2 deer & Labeech killed
an Antilope to day. the antilopes and deer are not Abundant. Beaver plenty
[Clark, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday 29th July 1806 a Slight rain last night with hard thunder and
Sharp lightening accompanied with a violent N. E. wind. I Set out early
this morning wind So hard a head that w made but little way. in the fore
part of the day, I saw great numbers of Buffalow on the banks. the country
on either Side is like that of yesterday. passed three large dry Brooks on
the Stard. Side and four on the Lard Side. great quantities of Coal in all
the hills I passed this day. late in the evening I arived at the enterance
of a River which I take to be the Lazeka or Tongue River it discharges
itself on the Stard. Side and is 150 yards wide of water the banks are
much wider. I intended to encamp on an eligable Spot imediately below this
river, but finding that its water So muddy and worm as to render it very
disagreeable to drink, I crossed the rochejhone and encamped on an island
close to the Lard. Shore. The water of this river is nearly milk worm very
muddy and of a lightish brown Colour. the Current rapid and the Chanel
Contains great numbers of Snags. near its enterance there is great
quantities of wood Such as is common in the low bottoms of the Rochejhone
and Missouri. tho I believe that the Country back thro which this river
passes is an open one where the water is exposed to the Sun which heats it
in its passage. it is Shallow and throws out great quantities of mud and
Some cors gravel. below this river and on the Stard Side at a fiew Miles
from the Rochejhone the hills are high and ruged Containing Coal in great
quantities. Beaver is very plenty on this part of the Rochejhone. The
river widens I think it may be generally Calculated at from 500" yards to
half a mile in width more Sand and gravelly Bars than above. cought 3 cat
fish. they wer Small and fat. also a Soft Shell turtle.
[Clark, July 30, 1806]
Friday 30th July 1806 Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the
Commencement of Shoals the Chanel on the Stard Side near a high bluff.
passed a Succession of those Shoals for 6 miles the lower of which was
quit across the river and appeared to have a decent of about 3 feet. here
we were Compeled to let the Canoes down by hand for fear of their
Strikeing a rock under water and Splitting. This is by far the wost place
which I have Seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this place a
distance of 694 miles by water. a Perogu or large Canoe would with Safty
pass through the worst of those Shoals, which I call the Buffalow Sholes
from the Circumstance of one of those animals being in them. the rock
which passes the river at those Sholes appear hard and gritty of a dark
brown Colour. the Clifts on the Stard. Side is about 100 feet in hight, on
the Lard Side the Country is low and the bottom rises gradually back. here
is the first appearance of Birnt hills which I have Seen on this river
they are at a distance from the river on the Lard Side. I landed at the
enterance of a dry Creek on the Lard side below the Shoals and took
brackfast. Those Dry Rivers, Creeks &c are like those of the Missouri
which take their rise in and are the Conveyance of the water from those
plains. they have the appearanc of dischargeing emence torrents of water.
the late rains which has fallen in the plains raised Sudenly those Brooks
which receive the water of those plains on which those Suden & heavy
Showers of rain must have fallen, Several of which I have Seen
dischargeing those waters, whiles those below heading or takeing their
rise in the Same neighbourhood, as I passed them appears to have latterly
been high. those Broods discharge emencely of mud also, which Contributes
much to the muddiness of the river. after Brackfast proceeded on the river
much narrower than above from 3 to 400 yards wide only and only a fiew
scattering trees to be Seen on the banks. at 20 miles below the Buffalow
Shoals passed a rapid which is by no means dangerous, it has a number of
large rocks in different parts of the river which Causes high waves a very
good Chanel on the Lard. Side. this rapid I call Bear rapid from the
Circumstance of a bears being on a rock in the Middle of this rapid when I
arived at it. a violent Storm from the N. W. obliged us to land imediately
below this rapid, draw up the Canoes and take Shelter in an old Indian
Lodge above the enterance of a river which is nearly dry it has laterly
been very high and Spread over nearly 1/4 a mile in width. its Chanel is
88 yards and in this there is not more water than could pass through an
inch auger hole. I call it Yorks dry R. after the rain and wind passed
over I proceeded on at 7 Miles passed the enterance of a river the water
of which is 100 yds wide, the bead of this river nearly 1/4 of a mile this
river is Shallow and the water very muddy and of the Colour of the banks a
darkish brown. I observe great quantities of red Stone thrown out of this
river that from the appearance of the hills at a distance on its lower
Side induced me to call this red Stone river. as the water was
disagreeably muddy I could not Camp on that Side below its mouth. however
I landed at its enteranc and Sent out and killed two fat Cows, and took as
much of the flesh as the Canoes would conveniently Carry and Crossed the
river and encamped at the enterance of a Brook on the Lard. Side under a
large Spredding Cotton tree. The river on which we passed to day is not So
wide as above containing but fiew islands with a Small quantity of Cotton
timber. no timber of any kind to be Seen on the high lands on either Side.
In the evening below the enterance of redstone river I observed great
numbers of Buffalow feeding on the plains, elk on the points and
antilopes. I also Saw Some of the Bighorn animals at a distance on the
hills. Gibson is now able to walk, he walked out this evening and killed
an antilope.
[Clark, July 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st of July 1806 I was much disturbed last night by the noise of
the buffalow which were about me. one gang Swam the river near our Camp
which alarmed me a little for fear of their Crossing our Canoes and
Splitting them to pieces. Set out as usial about Sun rise passed a rapid
which I call wolf rapid from the Circumstance of one of those animals
being at the rapid. here the river approaches the high mountanious Country
on the N W. Side those hills appear to be composed of various Coloured
earth and Coal without much rock I observe Several Conical mounds which
appear to have been burnt. this high Country is washed into Curious formed
mounds & hills and is cut much with reveens. the Country again opens
and at the distance of 23 miles below the Redston or War-har-sah River I
landed in the enterance of a Small river on the Stard. Side 40 yards wid
Shallow and muddy. it has lately been very high. haveing passed the
Enterance of a River on the Lard Side 100 yards wide which has running
water this river I take to be the one the Menetarries Call little wolf or
Sa-a-shah River The high Country is entirely bar of timber. great
quantities of Coal or carbonated wood is to be seen in every Bluff and in
the high hills at a distance on each Side. Saw more Buffalow and Elk and
antilopes this evening than usial. 18 Miles below the last river on the
Stard. Side, I passed one 60 yards wide which had running water. this
Stream I call oak-tar-pon-er or Coal River has very steep banks on each
side of it. passed Several large Brooks Some of them had a little running
water, also Several Islands Some high black looking Bluffs and encamped on
the Stard. Side on a low point. the country like that of yesterday is open
extencive plains. as I was about landing this evening Saw a white bear and
the largest I ever Saw eating a dead buffalow on a Sand bar. we fired two
Shot into him, he Swam to the main Shore and walked down the bank. I
landed and fired 2 more Shot into this tremendious animal without killing
him. night comeing on we Could not pursue him he bled profusely. Showers
all this day
[Clark, August 1, 1806]
Sunday 1st of August 1806. We Set out early as usial the wind was high and
ahead which caused the water to be a little rough and delayed us very much
aded to this we had Showers of rain repeetedly all day at the intermition
of only a fiew minits between them. My Situation a very disagreeable one.
in an open Canoe wet and without a possibility of keeping my Self dry. the
Country through which we passed is in every respect like that through
which I passed yesterday. The brooks have all Some water in them from the
rains which has fallen. this water is excessively muddy. Several of those
brooks have Some trees on their borders as far as I can See up them. I
observe Some low pine an cedar on the Sides of the rugid hills on the
Stard. Side, and Some ash timber in the high bottoms. the river has more
Sand bars today than usial, and more Soft mud. the current less rapid. at
2 P.M. I was obliged to land to let the Buffalow Cross over. not
withstanding an island of half a mile in width over which this gangue of
Buffalow had to pass and the Chanel of the river on each Side nearly 1/4
of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely across and as
thick as they could Swim. the Chanel on the Side of the island the went
into the river was crouded with those animals for 1/2 an hour. the other
Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an hour. I took 4 of the men and
killed 4 fat Cows for their fat and what portion of their flesh the Small
Canoes Could Carry that which we had killed a few days ago being nearly
Spoiled from the wet weather. encamped on an Island Close to the Lard
Shore two gangues of Buffalow Crossed a little below us, as noumerous as
the first.
[Clark, August 2, 1806]
Monday August 2nd 1806. Musquetors very troublesom this morning I Set out
early river wide and very much divided by islands and Sand and Mud bars.
the bottoms more extencive and contain more timber Such as Cotton wood ash
willow &c. The Country on the N W. Side rises to a low plain and
extends leavel for great extent. Some high rugid hills in the forepart of
this day on the S E. Side on which I saw the big horns but could not get
near them. Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves to day. the
wolves do catch the elk. I saw 2 wolves in pursute of doe Elk which I
beleive they Cought they very near her when She entered a Small wood in
which I expect they cought her as She did not pass out of the small wood
during my remaining in view of it which was 15 or 20 minits &c. passed
the enterance of Several brooks on each Side, a Small river 30 yds wide
with Steep banks on the Stard. Side, which I call Ibex River the river in
this days decent is less rapid crouded with Islds and muddy bars and is
generally about one mile in wedth. as the islands and bars frequently hide
the enterance of Brooks &c. from me as I pass'd maney of them I have
not noticed. about 8 A. M this morning a Bear of the large vicious Species
being on a Sand bar raised himself up on his hind feet and looked at us as
we passed down near the middle of the river. he plunged into the water and
Swam towards us, either from a disposition to attack't or from the Cent of
the meat which was in the Canoes. we Shot him with three balls and he
returned to Shore badly wounded. in the evening I saw a very large Bear
take the water above us. I ordered the boat to land on the opposit Side
with a view to attack't him when he Came within Shot of the Shore. when
the bear was in a fiew paces of the Shore I Shot it in the head. the men
hauled her on Shore and proved to be an old Shee which was so old that her
tuskes had worn Smooth, and Much the largest feemale bear I ever Saw.
after taking off her Skin, I proceeded on and encampd a little above the
enterance of Jo. Feilds Creek on Stard. Side in a high bottom Covered with
low Ash and elm. the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
I have noticed a great preportion Buck Elks on this lower part of the
river, and but very few above. those above which are emencely noumerous
are feemales Generally. Shields killed a Deer this morning dureing the
time we were at Brackfast. we were very near being detained by the
Buffalow today which were Crossing the river we got through the line
between 2 gangues.
[Clark, August 3, 1806]
Tueday August 3rd,1806. last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that
no one of the party Slept half the night. for my part I did not Sleep one
hour. those tormenting insects found their way into My beare and tormented
me the whole night. they are not less noumerous or troublesom this
morn-ing. at 2 miles passed the enterance of Jo. Field's Creek 35 yds wide
imediately above a high bluff which is falling into the river very fast.
on the Side of this bluff I saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn animals. I
assended the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were So noumerous that I
could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore Soon returned to the
Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large gangue of ewes &
yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a distance alone I
saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram, which he did kill and
brought him on board. this ram is not near as large as maney I have Seen.
however he is Sufficiently large for a Sample I directed Bratten to Skin
him with his head horns & feet to the Skin and Save all the bone. I
have now the Skin & bone of a Ram a Ewe & a yearlin ram of those
big Horn animals. at 8. A.M. I arived at the junction of the Rochejhone
with the Missouri, and formed my Camp imediately in the point between the
two river at which place the party had all encamped the 26th of
April-1805. at landing I observed Several Elk feeding on the young willows
in the point among which was a large Buck Elk which I shot & had his
flesh dryed in the Sun for a Store down the river. had the Canoes unloaded
and every article exposed to dry & Sun. Maney of our things were wet,
and nearly all the Store of meat which had been killed above Spoiled. I
ordered it to be thrown into the river. Several Skins are also Spoiled
which is a loss, as they are our principal dependance for Clothes to last
us to our homes &c.
The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River
Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of this
distance I decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I had the
following Persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William Bratten, W.
Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but fiew
obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably near it's
source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its
junction is Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of which
is roleing and the high hills and hill Sides are partially covered with
pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance of Clarks Fork
as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain Some Scattering pine
on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S. E. Side is Some hills thickly
Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river but fiew pines are to
be Seen the Country opens into extencive plains river widens and Contains
more islands and bars; of corse gravel sand and Mud. The Current of this
river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2 pr. hour from the Rocky Mts. as
low as Clarks Fork, at 31/2 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the
Bighorn, at 3 — Miles pr. hour from thence as low as the Tongue river,
at 23/4 Miles pr. hour from thence as low as Wolf rapid and at 21/2 miles
pr. hour from thence to its enterance into the Missouri
The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a
yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour
containing a greater portion of mud than the Rochejhone. This delighfull
river from indian information has it's extreem sources with the North
river in the Rocky mountains on the confines of New Mexico. it also most
probably has it's westerly sources connected with the Multnomah and those
the main Southerly branch of Lewis's river while it's Easterly branches
head with those of Clark's R. the bighorn and River Platte and may be said
to water the middle portion of the Rocky Mountains from N W to S. E. for
several hundred miles. the indians inform us, that a good road passes up
this river to it's extreem source from whence it is buta short distance to
the Spanish settlements. there is also a considerable fall on this river
within the mountains but at what distance from it's source we never could
learn like all other branches of the Missouri which penetrate the Rocky
Mountains all that portion of it lying within those mountains abound in
fine beaver and Otter, it's streams also which issuing from the rocky
mountain and discharging themselves above Clark's fork inclusive also
furnish an abundance of beaver and Otter and possess considerable portions
of small timber in their values. to an establishment on this river at
clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains
would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would in a great
measure be relived from the fear of being attacked by their enimies the
blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which would most
probably happen were they to visit any establishment which could be
conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the same regard
to personal safety would also induce many numerous nations inhabiting the
Columbia and Lewis's river West of the mountains to visit this
establishment in preference to that at the entrance of Maria's river,
particularly during the first years of those Western establishments. the
Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah's and others East of the mountains
and south of this place would also visit this establishment; it may
therefore be looked to as one of the most important establishments of the
western fur trade. at the entrance of Clark's fork there is a sufficiency
of timber to support an establishment, an advantage that no position
possesses from thence to the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the yellowstone
river a bold not very high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for
a few miles immediately below where the river issues from the mountain.
the bed of this river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is
it's bed interrupted by chains of rock except in one place and that even
furnishes no considerable obstruction to it's navigation. as you decend
with the river from the mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the
quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble
ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it's mouth. This
river can be navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any other
craft yet it possesses suficient debth of water for battauxs even to the
mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand bars so formidable to the
navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn R and Clark's fork
may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues and canoes. Tongue
river is also navigable for canoes a considerable distance.
[Clark, August 4, 1806]
Wednesday 4th August 1806 Musquetors excessively troublesom So much So
that the men complained that they could not work at their Skins for those
troublesom insects. and I find it entirely impossible to hunt in the
bottoms, those insects being So noumerous and tormenting as to render it
imposseable for a man to continue in the timbered lands and our best
retreat from those insects is on the Sand bars in the river and even those
Situations are only clear of them when the Wind Should happen to blow
which it did to day for a fiew hours in the middle of the day. the
evenings nights and mornings they are almost indureable perticelarly by
the party with me who have no Bears to keep them off at night, and nothing
to Screen them but their blankets which are worn and have maney holes. The
torments of those Missquetors and the want of a Sufficety of Buffalow meat
to dry, those animals not to be found in this neighbourhood induce me to
deturmine to proceed on to a more eliagiable Spot on the Missouri below at
which place the Musquetors will be less troublesom and Buffalow more
plenty. (I will here obseve that Elk is Abundant but their flesh & fat
is hard to dry in the Sun, and when dry is much easirSpoiled than either
the Buffalow or Deer) I ordered the Canoes to be reloaded with our baggage
& dryed meat which had been Saved on the Rochejhone together with the
Elk killed at this place. wrote a note to Capt Lewis informing him of my
intentions and tied it to a pole which I had Stuck up in the point. At 5
P. M Set out and proceeded on down to the 2d point which appeared to be an
eligable Situation for my purpose killed a porcupine on this point the
Musquetors were So abundant that we were tormented much worst than at the
point. The Child of Shabono has been So much bitten by the Musquetor that
his face is much puffed up & Swelled. I encamped on this extensive
Sand bar which is on the N W. Side.
[Clark, August 5, 1806]
Thursday 5th August 1806. The Musquetors was So troublesom to the men last
night that they Slept but very little. indeed they were excessive
troublesom to me. my Musquetor Bear has a number of Small holes worn
through they pass in. I Set out at an early hour intending to proceed to
Some other Situation. I had not proceded on far before I Saw a ram of the
big horn Animal near the top of a Lard. Bluff I assended the hill with a
view to kill the ram. the Misquetors was So noumerous that I could not
keep them off my gun long enough to take Sight and by thair means missed.
at 10 a.m. the wind rose with a gentle breeze from the N. W. which in Some
measure thinned the Misquetors. I landed on a Sand bar from the South
Point intending to form a Camp at this place and Continue untill Capt
Lewis Should arive. and killed two Buck Elks and a Deer the best of their
flesh & fat I had Saved. had all the dryed meat & fat put out to
Sun and continued at this place untill late in the evening finding that
there were no buffalow or fresh Sign I deturmined to proceed on
accordingly Set out at 4 P. M and proceeded on but a fiew miles eeir I saw
a Bear of the white Species walking on a Sand bear. I with one man went on
the Sand bear and killed the Bear which proved to be a feemale very large
and fat. much the fattest animale we have killed on the rout as this bear
had got into the river before we killed her I had her toed across to the
South Side under a high Bluff where formed a Camp, had the bear Skined and
fleaced. our Situation was exposed to a light breeze of wind which
continued all the forepart of the night from the S W. and blew away the
misquetors.
[Clark, August 6, 1806]
Friday 6th August 1806 I rose very wet. about 11 P M last night the wind
become very hard for a fiew minits Suckceeded by Sharp lightning and hard
Claps of Thunder and rained for about 2 hours very hard after which it
continued Cloudy the balance of the night. as we were about Setting out a
female Big horn animal came on the bluff imediately above us and looked
down. I derected Labeech to Shoot it which he did, after Skinning this
animal we Set out and proceeded on to a Sand bar on the S W. Side below
the enterance of White earth river where I landed and had the meat Skins
and bedding all put out to dry. wind hard from the N W. I halted on the N
W. Side of this river in the bend above the white earth river, where I saw
where the Indians had been digging a root which they eate and use in Seup,
not more than 7 or 8 days past. This morning a very large Bear of white
Specis, discovered us floating in the water and takeing us, as I prosume
to be Buffalow imediately plunged into the river and prosued us. I
directed the men to be Still. this animal Came within about 40 yards of
us, and tacked about. we all fired into him without killing him, and the
wind So high that we could not pursue him, by which means he made his
escape to the Shore badly wounded. I have observed buffalow floating down
which I suppose must have been drounded in Crossing above. more or less of
those animals drown or mire in passing this river. I observed Several
floating buffalow on the R. Rochejhone imediately below where large
gangues had Crossed. The wind blew hard all the after part of the day. I
derected the men to dress their Skins except one which I took with me and
walkd. through the bottom to the foot of the hills I killed five deer and
the man with me killed 2. four others were killed in the Course of the day
by the party only 2 of those deer were fat owing as I suppose to the
Musquetors which are So noumerous and troublesom to them that they Cannot
feed except under the torments of millions of those Musquetors.
[Clark, August 7, 1806]
Saturday 7th August 1806 Some hard rain this morning after daylight which
wet us all. I formed a Sort of Camped and delayed untill 11 a.m. when it
Stoped raining for a short time. I directed every thing put on board and
proceeded on down. the rain Continued at intervales all day tho not hard
in the evenig Saw a Bear on the bank but Could not get a Shoot at it. at 6
P M I landed on a Sand bar on the South Side and Campd. Soon after we
landed the wind blew very hard for about 2 hours, when it lulled a little.
the air was exceedingly Clear and Cold and not a misquetor to be Seen,
which is a joyfull circumstance to the Party.
[Clark, August 8, 1806]
Sunday 8th August 1806 A cool windey morning I derected Shields and Gibson
to turn out and hunt this morning. at 8 A.M. Sergt. N. Pryor Shannon, hall
& Windsor Came down the river in two Canoes made of Buffalow Skins.
Sergt. Pryor informed me that the Second night after he parted with me on
the river Rochejhone he arived about 4 P M on the banks of a large Creek
which contained no running water. he halted to let the horses graze
dureing which time a heavy Shower of rain raised the Creek so high that
Several horses which had Stragled across the Chanel of this Creek was
obliged to Swim back. here he deturmined to Continue all night it being in
good food for the horses. In the morning he could See no horses. in lookg
about their Camp they discovered Several tracks within 100 paces of their
Camp, which they pursued found where they had Caught and drove off all the
horses. they prosued on five miles the Indians there divided into two
parties. they Continued in pursute of the largest party five miles further
finding that there was not the Smallest Chance of overtakeing them, they
returned to their Camp and packed up their baggage on their backs and
Steared a N. E. course to the River Rochejhone which they Struck at pompys
Tower, there they killed a Buffalow Bull and made a Canoe in the form and
shape of the mandans & Ricares (the form of a bason) and made in the
following manner. Viz: 2 Sticks of 11/4 inch diameter is tied together So
as to form a round hoop of the Size you wish the canoe, or as large as the
Skin will allow to cover, two of those hoops are made one for the top or
brim and the for the bottom the deabth you wish the Canoe, then Sticks of
the Same Size are Crossed at right angles and fastened with a throng to
each hoop and also where each Stick Crosses each other. then the Skin when
green is drawn tight over this fraim and fastened with throngs to the brim
or outer hoop So as to form a perfect bason. one of those Canoes will
carry 6 or 8 Men and their loads. Those two Canoes are nearly the Same
Size 7 feet 3 inches diamieter & 16 inchs deep 15 ribs or Cross Sticks
in each. Sergt. Pryor informs me that the Cause of his building two Canoes
was for fear of ones meating with Some accedent in passing down the
rochejhone a river entirely unknown to either of them by which means they
might loose their guns and amunition and be left entirely destitute of the
means of precureing food. he informed me that they passed through the
worst parts of the rapids & Shoals in the river without takeing a drop
of water, and waves raised from the hardest winds dose not effect them. on
the night of the 26th ulto. the night after the horses had been stolen a
Wolf bit Sergt. Pryor through his hand when asleep, and this animal was So
vicious as to make an attempt to Seize Windsor, when Shannon fortunately
Shot him. Sergt. Pryers hand has nearly recovered. The Country through
which St. Pryor Passed after he parted with me is a broken open Country.
he passed one Small river which I have Called Pryors river which rises in
a Mtn. to the South of Pompys tower. The note I left on a pole at the
Mouth of the River Rochejhone Sergt. Pryor concluding that Capt. Lewis had
passed took the note and brought it with him. Capt. Lewis I expect will be
certain of my passing by the Sign which I have made and the encampment
imediately in the point. Sergt. Pryor bing anxious to overtake me Set out
Some time before day this morning and forgot his Saddlebags which contains
his papers &c. I Sent Bratten back with him in Serch of them. I also
Sent Shannon over to hunt the bottom on the opposit Side. Shields and
Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the Skins and part of the flesh of three
deer which they had killed in this bottom. I derected them to take one of
the Skin Canoes and proceed down to the next bottom and untill my arival
which will be this evening if Sergt. Pryor returns in time. My object is
to precure as many Skins as possible for the purpose of purchaseing Corn
and Beans of the Mandans. as we have now no article of Merchindize nor
horses to purchase with, our only resort is S kins which those people were
very fond the winter we were Stationed near them. after dark Sergt. Pryor
returned with his Saddlebeggs &c. they were much further up than he
expected.
[Clark, August 9, 1806]
Monday 9th August 1806 a heavy dew this morning. loaded the Canoes and
proceeded on down about 6 miles and landed at the Camp of the 2 hunters
Shields and Gibson whome I had Sent down to hunt last evening, they had
killed five deer two of which were in good order which they brought in.
here I took brackfast and proceeded on a fiew miles and I walked on Shore
across a point of near 10 miles in extent in this bottom which was mostly
open I saw Some fiew deer and Elk. I killed 3 of the deer which were
Meagure the Elk appeared fat. I did not kill any of them as the distance
to the river was too great for the men to Carry the meat at the lower part
of this bottom a large Creek of runnig water 25 yds wide falls in which
meanders through an open roleing plain of great extent. in the low bottoms
of this Creek I observed Some timber Such as Cottonwood, ash & Elm. on
my arival at the lower part of the bottom found that the canoes had been
in waiting for me nearly two hours. The Squar brought me a large and well
flavoured Goose berry of a rich Crimsin Colour, and deep purple berry of
the large Cherry of the Current Speces which is common on this river as
low as the Mandans, the engagees Call it the Indian Current. I landed
opposit to a high plain on the S. E. Side late in the evening and walked
in a Grove of timber where I met with an Elk which I killed. this Elk was
the largest Buck I ever Saw and the fattest animal which have been killed
on the rout. I had the flesh and fat of this Elk brought to Camp and cut
thin ready to dry. the hunters killed nothing this evening.
[Clark, August 10, 1806]
Tuesday 10th August 1806 had the flesh of the elk hung on poles to dry,
and Sent out the the hunters. wind blew hard from the East all day. in the
after part of the day it was cloudy & a fiew drops of rain. I finished
a Copy of my Sketches of the River Rochejhone. Shields killed a black tail
deer & an antilope. the other hunters killed nothing. deer are very
Scerce on this part of the river. I found a Species of Cherry in the
bottom the Srub or bush which are differant from any which I have ever
Seen and not very abundant even in this Small tract of country to which it
Seems to be confined. the Stem is compound erect and subdivided or
branching without any regular order. it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet
Seldom putting out more than one Stem from the Same root not growing in
cops as the Choke Cherry does. the bark is Smooth and of a dark brown
colour. the leaf is petialate, oval accutely pointed at it's apex, from 1
and a 1/4 to one and a 1/2 inch in length and from a half to 3/4 of an
inch in wedth, finely or manutely Serrate, pale green and free from
bubessance. The fruit is a globular berry about the Size of a buck Shot of
a fine Scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U. States each is
supported by a Seperate Celindric flexable branch peduncle which issues
from the extremities of the boughs. the peduncle of this cherry Swells as
it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of insertion. the pulp
of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and is now ripe. the Style
and Stigma are permanent. I have never Seen it in blume. it is found on
the high Stiff lands or hill Sides-. the men dug great parcel of the root
which the Nativs call Hankee and the engagees the white apple which they
boiled and made use of with their meat. This is a large insipid root and
very tasteless. the nativs use this root after it is dry and pounded in
their Seup.
[Clark, August 11, 1806]
Wednesday 11th August 1806 I set out early this morning. at 10 A.M. landed
on a Sand bar and brackfast dureing brackfast and my delay at this place
which was 2 hours had the Elk meat exposed to the Sun. at Meridian I set
out and had not proceeded more than 2 miles before I observed a Canoe near
the Shore. I derected the Canoes to land here I found two men from the
illinoies Jos. Dixon, and ____ Handcock those men are on a trapping
expedition up the River Rochejhone. They inform me that they left the
Illinois in the Summer 1804. the last winter they Spent with the Tetons in
Company with a Mr. Coartong who brought up goods to trade The tetons robed
him of the greater part of the goods and wounded this Dixon in the leg
with a hard wad. The Tetons gave Mr. Coartong Some fiew robes for the
articles they took from him. Those men further informed me that they met
the Boat and party we Sent down from Fort Mandan near the Kanzas river on
board of which was a Chief of the Ricaras, that he met the Yankton Chiefs
with Mr. Deurion, McClellen & Several other traders on their way down.
that the Mandans and Menitarrais wer at war with the Ricaras and had
killed two of the latter. the Assinniboins were also at war with the
Mandans &c and had prohibited the N W. traders from Comeing to the
Missouri to trade. they have latterly killed one Trader near the Mous
River and are now in wait for Mr. McKenzey one of the Clerks who have been
for a long time with Menetarias. Those dificulties if true will I fear be
a bar to our expectations of having the Mandan Minetarra & Ricara
Chief to acompany us to the U. States. Tho we Shall endeaver to bring abot
a peace between Mandans Mennetaries & Ricaras and provail on Some of
their Cheifs to accompany us to the U. States. proceeded on to a point on
the S W Side nearly opposit the enterance of Goat pen creek and encamped
found the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
[Clark, August 12, 1806]
Thursday 12th August 1806 I set out early this morning and had not
proceeded on far before Shannon discovered he had lost his Tomahk. I
derected him to land his Skin Canoe and go back to our Camp of last night
in Serch of it, and proceeded on my self with the two wood and one Skin
Canoe to a large hottom on the N. E Side above the head of Jins island and
landed to take brackfast as well as to delay untill Shannon & Gibson
Should arive. Sent out Shields & Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom,
at 2 P m. Shannon and gibson arived having found the tomahawk at our camp
they killed 3 Elk &c. one of the Canoes of Buffalow Skin by accident
got a hole peirced in her of about 6 inches diamuter. I derected two of
the men to patch the Canoe with a piece of Elk skin over the hole, which
they did and it proved all Sufficient, after which the Canoe did not leak
one drop. The two hunters returned without haveing killed any thing. at
meridian Capt Lewis hove in Sight with the party which went by way of the
Missouri as well as that which accompanied him from Travellers rest on
Clarks river; I was alarmed on the landing of the Canoes to be informed
that Capt. Lewis was wounded by an accident. I found him lying in the
Perogue, he informed me that his wound was slight and would be well in 20
or 30 days this information relieved me very much. I examined the wound
and found it a very bad flesh wound the ball had passed through the
fleshey part of his left thy below the hip bone and cut the cheek of the
right buttock for 3 inches in length and the debth of the ball. Capt L.
informed me the accident happened the day before by one of the men Peter
Crusat misstakeig him in the thick bushes to be an Elk. Capt Lewis with
this Crusat and Several other men were out in the bottom Shooting of Elk,
and had Scattered in a thick part of the woods in pursute of the Elk.
Crusat Seeing Capt L. passing through the bushes and takeing him to be an
Elk from the Colour of his Cloathes which were of leather and very nearly
that of the Elk fired and unfortunately the ball passed through the thy as
aforesaid. Capt Lewis thinking it indians who had Shot him hobbled to the
canoes as fast as possible and was followered by Crusat, the mistake was
then discovered. This Crusat is near Sighted and has the use of but one
eye, he is an attentive industerous man and one whome we both have placed
the greatest Confidence in dureing the whole rout. — After Capt. Lewis
and my Self parted at Travellers rest, he with the Indians proceeded down
the West Side of Clarks river Seven miles and crossed on rafts 2 miles
below the East fork 120 yards wide, after Crossing the river he proceeded
up the North Side of the east fork and encampd. here the Indians left him
and proceeded down Clarks river in Serch of the Tushepaws. an Indian man
Came up with Cap L. from the W. of the mountains and proceeded on with
those who had accompanied us. Capt. L. proceeded up the E. fork of Clarks
river 17 ms. to the enterance of Cokahlarishkit river or the river to
buffalow, he proceeded up on the North Side of this river which is 60
yards wide crossing Several Small Streams and the N. fork, and passing
over part of the dividing mountain onto the waters of Deabourns river in
the plains and in a Derection to the N. extremity of Easte range of rocky
mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine Island Rapid. from thence he
bore his Course to the N E untill he Struck Meadcin river near where that
river Enters the rocky Mts. and proceeded down Medicine river to the
Missouri at the white bear Islands at the upper part of the portage. this
rout is a very good one tho not the most derect rout, the most derect rout
would be to proceed up the Missouri above Dearborns river and take a right
hand road & fall on a South branch of the Cokatlarishkit R. and
proceed down that river to the main road but the best rout would be from
the falls of the Missouri by fort mountain and passing the N. extremity of
that range of the Rocky Mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine
Island rapid Course nearly S. W. and to the gap through which the great
road passeds the dividing mountain the distance from the falls to this gap
about 45 miles through a tolerable leavel plain on an old indian road. and
the distance from thence to Clarks river is 105 miles. The total distance
from the falls of the Missouri to Clarks river is only 150 miles of a
tolerable road — Capt L. arived at the white Bear Islands and encampd.
on the West Side of the Missouri and in the morning he discovered that the
Indians had taken of Seven of his best horses, drewyer prosued the indians
two day's on the rout towards Clarks river. he Saw their camp on Dearborns
river near the road on which Capt. Lewis & party Come on a by place
where they had left only one or two day at this encampment he Saw great
appearanc of horses — on the return of Drewyer Capt L. took Drewyer
& the 2 fieldses & proceeded on his intended rout up Marias river
leaving Sergt. Gass, Thompson, Frazier, Werner, McNeal & Goodrich at
the portage to prepare Geer and repar the wheels & Carrage against the
arival of the Canoes and he also left 4 horses for the purpose of hauling
the Canoes across. The Canoes arrived on the 16th, and on the 26th they
had all except one across, the Plains becom So muddy from the emence rains
which had fallen, that they Could not get her over the portage. on the
28th they joined Capt Lewis at the Grog Spring a fiew miles above the
enterance of Marias river From the Falls of Missouri Capt. L. proceeded on
with Drewyer & the 2 fieldses Courss
On the 26th of July Capt Lewis Set out on his return to the enterance of
Marias river to meet with the party with, the Canoes from the falls. his
course was through the plains
S. E. 5 Miles — passing a Small Creek from the mts
S. 70° E. 9 Miles to a principal branch of Marias River 65 yards wide not
very deep at 7 mile. this last branch is Shallow and rapid about the Size
of the former from the S W. both of those Streams Contain a great
preportion of timber — here we find the 3 Specis of Cotton before
mentioned
N 80° E. 4 miles down Marias river and met with 8 Indians of the Blackfoot
nation with about 30 horses, those Indians professed friendship and Set
out with him and encamped together the night of the 26th of July, thy
informed him that there was two large bands of their nation in that
quarter one of which would be at the enterance of Marias river in a fiew
days. they also informed that a french Trader was with one of those bands,
that they traded with the white people on the Suskashwen River at 6 easy
days march or about 150 miles distant from whome they precured Guns Powder
Lead blankets &c. in exchange for wolf and beaver Skins. Capt Lewis
gave them a Flag Meadel & Handkerchief Capt. L. informed those Indians
where he was from & where he had been and his objects & friendly
views &c. of which they appeared to be well Satisfied.
"on the morning of the 27th at day light the indians got up and crouded
around the fire, Jo. Field who was on post had carelessly laid his gun
down behind him near where his brother was Sleeping. one of the Indians
Slipd. behind him and took his gun and that of his brother unperceived by
him, at the Same instant two others advanced and Seized the guns of
Drewyer and Capt Lewis who were yet asleep. Jo. Fields Seeing this turned
about to take his gun and Saw the fellow running off with his and his
brothers, he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and prosued the
indian with him whome they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces
Siezed their guns and rested them from him and R. Field as he Seized his
gun Stabed the indian to the heart with his knif who fell dead; (this Cap
L. did not know untill Some time after.) drewyer who awoke at the first
alarm jumped up and Seized & rested his gun from the indian &c.
Capt L. awoke and asked what was the matter Seeing Drewyer in a Scuffle
for his gun he turned to get his gun and found her gorn, he drew a pistol
from his holsters and prosued the Indian whom he Saw in possession of his
gun making off he presented the pistol and the indian lay down the gun.
the two Fields Came up and drew up to Shoot the Indian which Capt L.
forbid the indians then attempted to drive off all the horses. Capt L.
derected the men to fire on them if they attempted to drive off the
horses, and prosued two fellows who Continued to drive of his horses he
Shot the indian who had taken his gun and then in possession of his horse
through the belly, he fell and raised on his elbow and fired at Capt L.
the other made his escape into a nitch out of Sight with his bow and
arrows and as Capt L. guns was empty and he without his Shot pouch he
returnd. to the Camp where the 2 fields and Drewyer joind him having
prosued the indians across the river the were now in possession of the
most of their own as well as the indian horses and a gun Several bows
& arrows and all the indians baggage the gun & Some feathers and
flag they took and burnt all the other articles. and Saddled up a many of
the best horses as they wished with Some Spear horses, and Set out for to
intersept the party at Marias river and proceded on a little to the S. of
East 112 Miles to the Missouri at the Grog Spring. here they met with
Canoes and party decending joined them leaving their horses on the river
bank, and proceeded on to the enterance of Marias river opened the
deposits, found Several articles damaged. 3 Beaver traps could not be
found, the red perogue unfit for Service, from thenc they proceeded
without delay to the River Rochejhone See cources of Capt Lewis rout in
next book."
at 2 P.M. Shannon & Gibson arived in the Skin Canoe with the Skins and
the greater part of the flesh of 3 Elk which they had killed a fiew miles
above. the two men Dixon & Handcock the two men we had met above came
down intending to proceed on down with us to the Manclans. at 3 P M we
proceded on all together having left the 2 leather Canoes on the bank. a
little below the enterance of (Jos) Shabonos Creek we Came too on a large
Sand point from the S. E. Side and Encamped. the wind blew very hard from
the S W. and Some rain. I washed Capt L. wound which has become Sore and
Somewhat painfull to him.
[Clark, August 13, 1806]
Friday 13th August 1806 the last night was very Cold with a Stiff breeze
from the N. W. all hands were on board and we Set out at Sunrize and
proceeded on very well with a Stiff breeze astern the greater part of the
day. passed the enterance of the Little Missouri river at 8 A.M. and
arived at the Enterance of Myry river at Sun Set and encamped on the N E
Side haveing came by the assistance of the wind, the Current and our oars
86 miles. below the little bason I with Drewyer walked through the N. E
point. we Saw an Elk and Several deer. Drewyer wounded the Elk but could
not get him. I joined the perogus & party again in the bend below and
proceeded on. Some indians were Seen in a Skin Canoe below, they were
decending from an old Camp of theirs on the S. W. Side, those I Suppose to
be Some of the Minetaras who had been up on a hunting expedition, one
Canoe was left at their Camp. we had not proceeded far before I discovered
two indians on a high hill. nothing very remarkable took place. the
Misquetors are not So troublesom this evening as they have been. the air
is cool &c.
[Clark, August 14, 1806]
Thursday 14th August 1806 Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. when we
were opposit the Minetares Grand Village we Saw a number of the Nativs
viewing of we derected the Blunderbuses fired Several times, Soon after we
Came too at a Croud of the nativs on the bank opposit the Village of the
Shoe Indians or Mah-har-ha's at which place I saw the principal Chief of
the Little Village of the Menitarre & the principal Chief of the
Mah-har-has. those people were extreamly pleased to See us. the Chief of
the little Village of the Menetarias cried most imoderately, I enquired
the Cause and was informed it was for the loss of his Son who had been
killed latterly by the Blackfoot Indians. after a delay of a fiew minits I
proceeded on to the black Cats Village on the N. E. Side of the Missouri
where I intended to Encamp but the Sand blew in Such a manner that we
deturmined not to continu on that Side but return to the Side we had left.
here we were visited by all the inhabitants of this village who appeared
equally as well pleased to See us as those above. I walked up to the Black
Cats village & eate some Simnins with him, and Smoked a pipe this
Village I discovered had been rebuilt Since I left it and much Smaller
than it was; on enquirey into the Cause was informed that a quarrel had
taken place and Lodges had removed to the opposd Side. I had Soon as I
landed despatched Shabono to the Minetarras inviting the Chiefs to visit
us, & Drewyer down to the lower Village of the Mandans to ask Mr.
Jessomme to Come and enterpret for us. Mr. Jessomme arived and I spoke to
the chiefs of the Village informing them that we Spoke to them as we had
done when we were with them last and we now repeeted our envitation to the
principal Chiefs of all the Villages to accompany us and to the U States
&c. &c. the Black Cat Chief of the Mandans, Spoke and informed me
that he wished to Visit the United States and his Great Father but was
afraid of the Scioux who were yet at war with them and had killed Several
of their men Since we had left them, and were on the river below and would
Certainly kill him if he attempted to go dow.i. I indeavered to do away
with his objections by informig him that we would not Suffer those indians
to hurt any of our red Children who Should think proper to accompany us,
and on their return they would be equally protected, and their presents
which would be very liberal, with themselves, Conveyed to their own
Country at the expence of the U. States &c. &c. The chief promised
us Some corn tomorrow. after the Council I directed the Canoes to cross
the river to a brook opposit where we Should be under the wind and in a
plain where we would be Clear of musquetors & after Crossing the Chief
of the Mah har has told me if I would Send with him he would let me have
some corn. I directed Sergt Gass & 2 men to accompany him to his
Village, they Soon returned loaded with Corn. the Chief and his wife also
came down. I gave his wife a fiew Needles &c. — The Great Chif of
all the Menitarres the one eye Came to Camp also Several other Chiefs of
the different Villages. I assembled all the Chiefs on a leavel Spot on the
band and Spoke to them & see next book.
[Clark, August 15, 1806]
Thursday August 15th 1806 Continued Mandans Vilg after assembling the
Chiefs and Smokeing one pipe, I informed them that I Still Spoke the Same
words which we had Spoken to them when we first arived in their Country in
the fall of 1804. we then envited them to visit their great father the
president of the U. States and to hear his own Councils and receive his
Gifts from his own hands as also See the population of a government which
Can at their pleasure protect and Secur you from all your enimies, and
chastize all those who will Shut their years to his Councils. we now offer
to take you at the expense of our Government and Send you back to your
Country again with a considerable present in merchendize which you will
recive of your great Father. I urged the necessity of their going on with
us as it would be the means of hastening those Supples of Merchindize
which would be Sent to their Country and exchanged as before mentioned for
a moderate price in Pelteries and furs &c. the great Chief of the
Menetaras Spoke, he Said he wished to go down and See his great father
very much, but that the Scioux were in the road and would most certainly
kill him or any others who Should go down they were bad people and would
not listen to any thing which was told them. when he Saw us last we told
him that we had made peace with all the nations below, Since that time the
Seioux had killed 8 of their people and Stole a number of their horses. he
Said that he had opened his ears and followed our Councils, he had made
peace with the Chyennes and rocky mountains indians, and repieted the same
objecctions as mentioned. that he went to war against none and was willing
to receive all nations as friends. he Said that the Ricaras had Stolen
from his people a number of horses at different times and his people had
killed 2 Ricaras. if the Sieoux were at peace with them and Could be
depended on he as also other Chiefs of the villages would be glad to go
and See their great father, but as they were all afraid of the Sieoux they
Should not go down &c.
The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans Village on the North Side of the
Missouri Sent over and requested me to go over to his village which
envertation I axceptd and crossed over to his village. he had a parcel of
Corn about 12 bushuls in a pile in his lodge. he told me that his people
had but little corn part of which they had given me. after takeing a Smoke
he informed me that as the Sieoux were very troublesom and the road to his
great father dangerous none of this village would go down with us. I told
the Cheifs and wariers of the village who were there present that we were
anxious that Some of the village Should go and See their great father and
hear his good words & recve his bountifull gifts &c. and told them
to pitch on Some Man on which they could rely on and Send him to See their
Great father, they made the Same objections which the Chief had done
before. a young man offered to go down, and they all agreeed for him to go
down the charector of this young man I knew as a bad one and made an
objection as to his age and Chareckter at this time Gibson who was with me
informed me that this young man had Stole his knife and had it then in his
possession, this I informed the Chief and directed him to give up the
knife he delivered the knife with a very faint apology for his haveing it
in his possession. I then reproached those people for wishing to Send Such
a man to See and hear the words of So great a man as their great father;
they hung their heads and Said nothing for Some time when the Cheif Spoke
and Said that they were afraid to Send any one for fear of their being
killed by the Sieux. after Smoking a pipe and relateing Some passages I
recrossed to our Camp-. being informed by one of our enterpreters that the
2d Chief of the Mandans Comonly Called the little Crow intended to
accompany us down, I took Charbono and walked to the Village to See this
Chief and talk with him on the Subject. he told me he had deturmined to go
down, but wished to have a council first with his people which would be in
the after part of the day. I smoked a pipe with the little Crow and
returned to the boat. Colter one of our men expressed a desire to join
Some trappers who offered to become Shearers with and furnish traps &c.
the offer a very advantagious one, to him, his Services Could be dispenced
with from this down and as we were disposed to be of Service to any one of
our party who had performed their duty as well as Colter had done, we
agreed to allow him the prvilage provided no one of the party would ask or
expect a Similar permission to which they all agreeed that they wished
Colter every Suckcess and that as we did not wish any of them to Seperate
untill we Should arive at St. Louis they would not apply or expect it
&c. The Maharha Chief brought us Some Corn, as did also the Chief of
the little village of the Menetarras on mules of which they have Several.
The evening is Cool and windy. great number of the nativs of the different
villages Came to view us and exchange robes with our men for their Skins — we
gave Jo Colter Some Small articles which we did not want and Some powder
& lead. the party also gave him Several articles which will be usefull
to him on his expedittion. — This evening Charbono informed me that
our back was scercely turned before a war party from the two menetarry
villages followed on and attacked and killed the Snake Indians whome we
had Seen and in the engagement between them and the Snake indians they had
lost two men one of which was the Son of the principal Chief of the little
village of the menitarras. that they had also went to war from the
Menetarras and killed two Ricaras. he further informed me that a
missunderstanding had taken place between the Mandans & minetarras and
had verry nearly come to blows about a woman, the Menitarres at length
presented a pipe and a reconsilliation took place between them
[Clark, August 16, 1806]
Friday 16th August 1806 a cool morning. Sent up Sergt. Pryor to the mandan
village, for Some Corn which they offered to give us. he informed that
they had more Corn collected for us than our Canoes Could Carry Six load
of which he brought down. I thanked the Chief for his kindness and
informed him that our Canoes would not Carry any more Corn than we had
already brought down. at 10 A. M the Chiefs of the different villages came
to See us and Smoke a pipe &c. as our Swivel Could no longer be
Serveceable to us as it could not be fireed on board the largest Perogue,
we Concluded to make a present of it to the Great Chief of the Menetaras
(the One Eye) with a view to ingratiate him more Strongly in our favour I
had the Swivel Charged and Collected the Chiefs in a circle around it and
adressed them with great ceremoney. told them I had listened with much
attention to what the One Eye had Said yesterday and beleived that he was
Sincere & Spoke from his heart. I reproached them very Severely for
not attending to what had been Said to them by us in Council in the fall
of 1804 and at different times in the winter of 1804 & 5, and told
them our backs were Scercely turned befor a party followed and killed the
pore defenceless snake indians whom we had taken by the hand & told
them not to be afraid that you would never Strike them again &c. also
mentioned the ricers &c. The little Cherry old Chief of the Menetarras
Spoke as follows Viz: "Father we wish to go down with you to See our Great
Father, but we know the nations below and are afraid of the Scioux who
will be on the river and will kill us on our return home. The Scioux has
Stolen our horses and killed 8 of our men Since you left us, and the
Ricaras have also Struck us. we Staid at home and listened to what you had
told us. we at length went to war against the Scioux and met with Ricaras
and killed two of them, they were on their way to Strike us. We will
attend to your word and not hurt any people all Shall be Welcom and we
Shall do as you direct-." The One Eye Said his ears would always be open
to the word of his great father and Shut against bad Council &c. I
then a good deel of Ceremony made a preasent of the Swivel to the One Eye
Chief and told him when he fired this gun to remember the words of his
great father which we had given him. this gun had anounced the words of
his great father to all the nations which we had Seen &c. &c.
after the council was over the gun was fired & delivered, they Chief
appeared to be much pleased and conveyed it immediately to his village
&c. we Settled with and discharged Colter. in the evening I walked to
the village to See the little Crow and know when he would be ready, took
with me a flag intending to give him to leave at his lodge but to my
astonishment he informed me he had declined going down the reason of which
I found was through a jellousy between himself and the principal Chief he
refused a flag & we Sent for Mr. Jessomme and told him to use his
influn to provail on one of the Chiefs to acompany us and we would employ
him. he informed us soon after that the big white Chief would go if we
would take his wife & Son & Jessoms wife & 2 children we wer
obliged to agree to do
[Clark, August 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th of August 1806 a Cool morning gave some powder & Ball to
Big White Chief Settled with Touisant Chabono for his Services as an
enterpreter the pric of a horse and Lodge purchased of him for public
Service in all amounting to 500$ 33 1/3 cents. derected two of the largest
of the Canoes be fastened together with poles tied across them So as to
make them Study for the purpose of Conveying the Indians and enterpreter
and their families
we were visited by all the principal Chiefs of the Menetarras to take
their leave of us at 2 oClock we left our encampment after takeing leave
of Colter who also Set out up the river in Company with Messrs. Dickson
& Handcock. we also took our leave of T. Chabono, his Snake Indian
wife and their Son Child who had accompanied us on our rout to the pacific
Ocean in the Capacity of interpreter and interpretes. T. Chabono wished
much to accompany us in the Said Capacity if we could have provailed the
Menetarre Chiefs to dcend the river with us to the U. States, but as none
of those chiefs of whoes language he was Conversent would accompany us,
his Services were no longer of use to the U States and he was therefore
discharged and paid up. we offered to convey him down to the Illinois if
he Chose to go, he declined proceeding on at present, observing that he
had no acquaintance or prospects of makeing a liveing below, and must
continue to live in the way that he had done. I offered to take his little
Son a butifull promising Child who is 19 months old to which they both
himself & wife wer willing provided the Child had been weened. they
observed that in one year the boy would be Sufficiently old to leave his
mother & he would then take him to me if I would be so freindly as to
raise the Child for him in Such a manner as I thought proper, to which I
agreeed &c. — we droped down to the Big white Cheifs Mandan
Village 1/2 a mile below on the South Side, all the Indians proceeded on
down by land. and I walked to the lodge of the Chief whome I found
Sorounded by his friends the men were Setting in a circle Smokeing and the
womin Crying. he Sent his bagage with his wife & Son, with the
Interpreter Jessomme & his wife and 2 children to the Canoes provided
for them. after Smoking one pipe, and distributing Some powder & lead
which we had given him, he informed me that he was ready and we were
accompd to the Canoes by all the Village Maney of them Cried out aloud. as
I was about to Shake with the Grand Cheifs of all the Villages there
assembled they requested me to Set one minit longer with them which I
readily agreed to and directed a pipe to be lit. the Cheifs informed that
when we first came to their Country they did not beleive all we Said we
then told them. but they were now Convinced that every thing we had told
them were true, that they Should keep in memory every thing which we had
Said to them, and Strictly attend to our advice, that their young men
Should Stay at home and Should no go again to war against any nation, that
if any atacted them they Should defend themselves, that we might depend on
what they Said, and requested us to inform their great father. the also
requested me to tell the Ricaras to Come and See them, not to be afraid
that no harm Should be done them, that they were anxious to be in peace
with them.
The Seeoux they Said they had no dependance in and Should kill them
whenever they Came into their Country to do them harm &c. I told them
that we had always told them to defend themselves, but not to Strike those
nations we had taken by the hand, the Sieoux with whome they were at war
we had never Seen on our return we Should inform their great fathe of
their conduct towards his faithfull red Children and he would take Such
Steps as will bring about a lasting peace between them and his faithfull
red children. I informed them that we should inform the ricaras what they
had requested &c. The Grand Chief of the Mineterres Said that the
Great Cheif who was going down with to see their great father was a well
as if he went also, and on his return he would be fully informed of the
words of his great father, and requested us to take care of this Gt.
Chief. we then Saluted them with a gun and Set out and proceeded on to
Fort Mandan where I landed and went to view the old works the houses
except one in the rear bastion was burnt by accident, Some pickets were
Standing in front next to the river. we proceeded on to the old Ricara
village the S E wind was so hard and the waves So high that we were
obliged to Come too, & Camp on the S W Side near the old Village. (18
mils)
[Clark, August 18, 1806]
Monday 18th August 1806. moderate rain last night, the wind of this
morning from the S. E. as to cause the water to be So rough that we Could
not proceed on untill 8 a.m. at which time it fell a little & we
proceeded on tho the waves were yet high and the wind Strong. Saw Several
Indians on either Side of the river. at 9 A.M. I saw an Indian running
down the beech and appd. to be anxious to Speak to us I derected the
Canoes to land. this Indian proved to be the brother of the Chief we had
on board and Came down from his Camp at no great distance to take his
leave of his brother. the Chief gave him a par of Legins and took an
effectunate leave of his brother and we procedeed on haveing previously
Sent on 2 canoes with hunters to kill Some meat at 2 P. M we overtook the
Canoe hunters, they had killed three deer which was divided and we halted
and Cooked Some dinner on the Sandbar. wind Still high and from the Same
point. The Chief pointed out Several places where he Said his nation
formerly lived and related Some extroadinary Stories of their tredition.
after Dinner we proceeded on, to a point on the N E. Side opposit the
remains of an old Mandan village a little below the enterance of Chiss-che
for River and the place we Encamped as we assended this river 20th of
October 1804 haveing come 40 miles today. after landing which was a little
before night the hunters run out into the bottom and Killed four deer. The
winds blew hard from the S. E. all day which retarded our progress very
much after the fires were made I set my self down with the big white man
Chiefe and made a number of enquiries into the tredition of his nation as
well as the time of their inhabiting the number of Villages the remains of
which we see on different parts of the river, as also the cause of their
evacuation. he told me his nation first Came out of the ground where they
had a great village. a grape vine grew down through the Earth to their
village and they Saw light Some of their people assended by the grape vine
upon the earth, and Saw Buffalow and every kind of animal also Grapes
plumbs &c. they gathered Some grapes & took down the vine to the
village, and they tasted and found them good, and deturmined to go up and
live upon the earth, and great numbers climbed the vine and got upon earth
men womin and children. at length a large big bellied woman in climbing
broke the vine and fell and all that were left in the Village below has
remained there ever Since (The Mandans beleive when they die that they
return to this village) Those who were left on earth made a village on the
river below and were very noumerous &c. he Said that he was born in
the Village Opposit to our Camp and at that time his nation inhabited 7
villages as large as that and were full of people, the Sieoux and Small
pox killed the greater part of them and made them So weak that all that
were left only made two Small villages when Collected, which were built
near the old Ricaras village above. their troubles with the Scioux &
Pawnees or Ricaras Compelled them to move and build a village where they
now live.
he Said that the Menitarras Came out of the water to the East and Came to
this Country and built a village near the mandans from whome they got Corn
beens &c. they were very noumerous and resided in one village a little
above this place on the opposit Side. they quarreled about a buffalow, and
two bands left the village and went into the plains, (those two bands are
now known bye the title Pounch, and Crow Indians.) the ballance of the
Menetaras moved their village to where it now Stands where they have lived
ever Since-
[Clark, August 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of August 1806 Some rain last night and this morning the wind
rose and blew with great Violence untill 4 P. M and as our camp was on a
Sand bar we were very much distressd with the blows of Sand. I directed
the hunters to proceed on down the bottom and kill and butcher Some meat
and if the wind Should lie that I should proceed on down to their Camp
&c. Capt. Lewis'es wounds are heeling very fast, I am much in hope of
his being able to walk in 8 or 10 days-. at 4 P. M the wind Seased to blow
with that violence which it had done all day we Set out and proceeded on
down. the hunters which was Sent out this morning killed 4 Elk & 12
deer near the river we came too and brought in the most of the flesh and
proceeded on to a Sand on the N E Side and Encamped. the wind rose and
become very Strong from the S. E. and a great appearance of rain. Jessomme
the Interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge and the Squars pitched or
Stretched it over Some Sticks, under this piece of leather I Slept dry, it
is the only covering which I have had Suffecient to keep off the rain
Since I left the Columbia. it began to rain moderately Soon after night.
The Indians appear well Satisfyed with the party and mode of proceedure.
we decended only 10 miles to day Saw Some Elk and buffalow on the Shore
near where we Encamped. the Elk beginning to run. the Buffalow are done
running & the bulls are pore.
[Clark, August 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th of August 1806 a violent hard rain about day light this
morning. all wet except myself and the indians. we embarked a little after
Sun rise wind moderate and ahead. we proceeded on at meridn. passed the
enterance of Cannonball river imediately above is the remains of a large
Sieoux encampment which appears to have been made this Spring. at 3 P M
passed the enterance of Wardepon River Saw great number of wolves on the
bank Some Buffalow & Elk, tho not so abundant as near the River
Rochejhone. passed the place where we left the last encampment of Ricaras
in the fall 1804 and encamped on a Sandbar from the N. E. Side, having
made 8 miles only, the wind blew hard all day which caused the waves to
rise high and flack over into the Small Canoes in Such a manner as to
employ one hand in throwing the water out. The plains begin to Change
their appearance the grass is turning of a yellow colour. I observe a
great alteration in the Corrent course and appearance of this pt. of the
Missouri. in places where there was Sand bars in the fall 1804 at this
time the main Current passes, and where the current then passed is now a
Sand bar Sand bars which were then naked are now covered with willow
Several feet high. the enteranc of Some of the Rivers & Creeks Changed
owing to the mud thrown into them, and a layor of mud over Some of the
bottoms of 8 inches thick.
[Clark, August 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st August 1806 Musquetors very troublesom in the early part of
last night and again this morning I directed Sergt. Ordway to proceed on
to where there was Some ash and get enough for two ores which were
wanting. Men all put their arms in perfect order and we Set out at 5 a.m.
over took Sergt. ordway with wood for oars &c. at 8 A.M. Met three
french men Comeing up, they proved to be three men from the Ricaras two of
them Reevea & Greinyea wintered with us at the mandans in 1804 we Came
too, those men informed us that they were on their way to the Mandans, and
intended to go down to the Illinois this fall. one of them quit a young
lad requested a passage down to the Illinois, we concented and he got into
a Canoe to an Ore. Those men informd us that 700 Seeoux had passed the
Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans & Menitarras and that
their encampment where the Squaws and Children wer, was Some place near
the Big Bend of this river below. no ricaras had accompanied them but were
all at home, they also informed us that no trader had arived at the
Ricaras this Season, and that they were informed that the Pania or Ricara
Chief who went to the United States last Spring was a year, died on his
return at Smoe place near the Sieoux river &c. those men had nether
powder nor lead we gave them a horn of powder and Some balls and after a
delay of an hour we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and
proceeded on. the wind rose and bley from the N. W. at half past 11 a.m.
we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great number of womin
Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted the village with four guns and
they returned the Salute by fireing Several guns in the village, I
observed Several very white Lodges on the hill above the Town which the
ricaras from the Shore informed me were Chyennes who had just arived-. we
landed opposit to the 2d Villages and were met by the most of the men
women and children of each village as also the Chyennes they all appeared
anxious to take us by the hand and much rejoiced to See us return. I
Steped on Shore and was Saluted by the two great Chiefs, whome we had made
or given Medals to as we assend this river in 1804, and also Saluted by a
great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as they appeared anxious to
here what we had done &c. as well as to here Something about the
Mandans & Minetarras. I Set my self down on the Side of the Bank and
the Chiefs & brave men of the Ricaras & Chyennes formed a Cercle
around me. after takeing a Smoke of Mandan tobacco which the Big white
Chief who was Seated on my left hand furnished, I informed them as I had
before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where we had been what we
had done and Said to the different nations in there favour and envited
Some of their Chiefs to accompany us down and See their great father and
receve from his own mouth his good Councils and from his own hands his
bountifull gifts &c. telling pretty much the Same which I had told the
mandans and menitarras. told them not to be afraid of any nation below
that none would hurt them &c. a man of about 32 years of age was
intreduced to me as 1st Chief of the nation this man they Call the grey
eyes or ____ he was absent from the Nation at the time we passed up, the
man whome we had acknowledged as the principal chief informed me that the
Grey eyes was a greater Chief than himself and that he had given up all
his pretentions with the Flag and Medal to the Grey eyes — The
principal chief of the Chyenne's was then introduced he is a Stout jolley
fellow of about 35 years of age whome the Ricaras Call the Grey Eyes I
also told the ricaras that I was very Sorrey to here that they were not on
friendly terms with their neighbours the Mandans & Menetarras, and had
not listened to what we had Said to them but had Suffered their young men
to join the Sieoux who had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men
had Stolen the horses of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories
the Mandans & Menetarras had Sent out a war party and killed 2
ricaras. how could they expect other nations would be at peace with them
when they themselves would not listen to what their great father had told
them. I further informed them that the Mandans & Menetaras had opened
their ears to what we had Said to them but had Staid at home untill they
were Struk that they were Still disposed to be friendly and on good terms
with the ricaras, they then Saw the great Chief of the Mandans by my Side
who was on his way to see his great father, and was derected by his nation
& the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke in the pipe of peace with you
and to tell you not to be afraid to go to their towns, or take the Birds
in the plains that their ears were open to our Councils and no harm Should
be done to a Ricara. The Chief will Speak presently The Grey eyes Chief of
the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he mentioned his
williness of following the councels which we had given them that they had
Some bad young men who would not listen to the Councels but would join the
Seioux, those men they had discarded and drove out of their villages, that
the Seioux were the Cause of their Missunderstanding &c. that they
were a bad peoples. that they had killed Several of the Ricaras Since I
Saw them. That Several of the chiefs wished to accompany us down to See
their great father, but wished to see the Chief who went down last Sumer
return first, he expressed Some apprehention as to the Safty of that
Chiefs in passing the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be
friendly with the Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who chose to
visit the ricares should be Safe that he Should Continue with his nation
and See that they followed the Council which we had given them &c. — The
Sun being very hot the Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was
pitched in the plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the
invitation and accompanied him to his lodge which was new and much larger
than any which I have Seen it was made of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the
Same form of the Sceoux and lodges of other nations of this quarter. about
this lodges was 20 others Several of them of nearly the Same Size. I
enquired for the ballance of the nation and was informed that they were
near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and when all together amounted to
120 Lodges after Smokeing I gave a medal of the Small size to the Chyenne
Chief &c. which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a fleece of
fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back and informed me
that he knew that the white people were all medecine and that he was
afraid of the midal or any thing that white people gave to them. I had
previously explained the cause of my gveing him the medal & flag, and
again told him the use of the medal and the caus of my giveing it to him,
and again put it about his neck delivering him up his preasent of a roab
& meat, informing him that this was the medecene which his Great
father directed me to deliver to all the great Chiefs who listened to his
word and followed his councils, that he had done So and I should leave the
medal with him as a token of his cincerity &c. he doubled the quantity
of meat, and received the medal
The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length explainin the
Cause of the misunderstanding between his nation and the ricaras,
informing them of his wish to be on the most freindly termes &c. the
Chyennes accused both nations of being in folt. I told to them all that if
they eve wished to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy with the
Seioux and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to what we had
told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we Smoked and parted
on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was Saluted by Several Chiefs and
brave men on his way with me to the river — I had requested the
ricaras & Chyennes to inform me as Soon as possible of their
intentions of going down with us to See their great father or not. in the
evening the Great Chief requested that I would walk to his house which I
did, he gave me about 2 quarts of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins and a trencher
of boiled Corn & beans to eat (as it is the Custom of all the Nations
on the Missouri to give Something to every white man who enters their
lodge Something to eat) this Chief informed me that none of his Chiefs
wished to go down with us they all wished to See the cheif who went down
return first, that the Chyennes were a wild people and were afraid to go.
that they Should all listen to what I had Said. I gave him Some ribon to
Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the Snake indians gave me for which
he was very much pleased.
The interpreter informed me that the Cheifs of those villages had no
intention of going down. one the Cheifs of the Village on the island
talkd. of going down. I returned to the boat where I found the principal
Chief of the lower vilege who had Cut part of his hair and disfigured
himself in Such a manner that I did not know him, he informed me the Sieux
had killed his nephew and that Was in tears for him &c. we deturmind
to proceed down to the Island and accordingly took the chief on board and
proceeded on down to the isd village at which place we arived a little
before dark and were met as before by nearly every individual of the
Village, we Saluted them and landed imediately opposit the town. The one
arm 2d Cheif of this village whome we had expected to accompany us down
Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and thretening tone which Caused me to
be Some what alarmed for the Safty of that Cheif, I inform the Ricaras of
this village that the Mandans had opened their ears to and fold. our
Councils, that this Cheif was on his way to see their Great Father the P.
of U S. and was under our protection that if any enjorey was done to him
by any nation that we Should all die to a man. I told the Ricaras that
they had told us lies, they promised to be at peace with the mandans &
Menetarras. that our back was Scrcely turned before they went to war &
Killd. them and Stole their horses &c — The Cheif then envited me
& the Mandan Chief to his house to talk there. I accompanied him,
after takeing a very Serimonious Smoke the 2d Cheif informd. me that he
had opened his ears to what we had Said to him at the time we gave him the
medal that he had not been to war against any Natn. Since, that once been
to See the mandans and they were going to kill him, they had not killed
the Mandans, it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras, he
Said that the Mandan Cheif was as Safe as if he was in his own Vilg that
he had opened his ears and Could here as well as the mandans. I then
informd them what I had told the upper villages and we all become
perfectly reconsiled all to each other and Smoked in the most perfect
harmony we had invatations to go into their lodges and eate. I at length
went to the grand Chiefs Lodge by his particelar invitation, the Mandan
Chief Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled young
Corn, beens & quashes of which he gave me in Wooden bowls. he also
gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco Seed, & informed me he had always
had his ears open to what we had Said, that he was well convinced that the
Seeoux was the caus of all the trouble between the Mandans & them the
Ricars had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had been returned all
except one which could not be got, this mischief was done by Some young
men who was bad. a long Conversation of explanations took place between
the Ricara & mandan Chiefs which appeared to be Satisfactory on both
Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and every thing appeared to
be made up. I returned to the river & went to bead. the Indians contd
on board. made 22 miles today only.
[Clark, August 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd August 1806. rained all the last night every person and all
our bedding wet, the Morning cloudy, at 8 A M. I was requested to go to
the Chiefs, I walkd up and he informed me that he Should not go down but
would Stay and take Care of the village and prevent the young men from
doing rong and Spoke much to the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d Chief
Spoke to the Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had
Said before. the Chief gave me some Soft Corn and the 2d Chief Some
Tobacco Seed — the Interpreter Garrow informed me that he had been
Speeking to the Chiefs & warriers this morning and assured me that
they had no intention of going down untill the return of the Cheif who
went down last Spring was a year. I told the Cheifs to attend to what we
had Said to them, that in a Short time they would find our words tru and
Councils good. they promised to attend Strictly to what had been Said to
them, and observed that they must trade with the Sieoux one more time to
get guns and powder; that they had no guns or powder and had more horses
than they had use for, after they got guns and powder that they would
never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I returned the
Canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set out. Some Chyennes from
two Lodges on the Main S E. Shore Came and Smoked with me and at 11 A. M
we Set out haveing parted with those people who appeared to be Sorry to
part with us. at this nation we found a french man by the name of Rokey
who was one of our Engagees as high as the Mandans this man had Spend all
his wages, and requested to return with uswe agreed to give him a passage
down. I directed 2 guns to be fired. we proceeded on passed the Marapa and
the We ter hoo Rivers, and landed to dry our bedding and robes &c
which were all wet. here we delayed untill 6 P M. and dryed our things
which were much Spoiled.
I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to Grouse Island a fiew miles
below and hunt on that island untill we arived, we proceded on to the main
N E Shore below the Island and encamped, the hunters joined us without any
thing. they Saw no game on the island. we made only 17 Miles to day. below
the ricaras the river widens and the Sand bars are emencely noumerous much
less timber in the bottoms than above
The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections of the Mandans
& ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed & high noses the men are
large, their dress in Sumner is Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin
with or without the hair and a Breach clout & mockerson Some ware
leagins and mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are
composed principally of Such articles as they precure from other indians
Such as blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass broaches &c. they
also ware Bears Claws about their necks, Strips of otter Skin (which they
as well as the ricaras are excessively fond of) around their neck falling
back behind. their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them were
ornements in them, their hair is generally Cut in the forehead above their
eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each Sholder the remainder of
the hair is either twisted in with horse or buffalow hair divided into two
plats over the Sholder or what is most common flow's back, Their women are
homely, corse feetured wide mouthes they ware Simpially a leathe habit
made in a plain form of two pieces of equal length and equal weadth, which
is sewen together with Sinues from the tail to about half way from the hip
to the arm, a String fastens the 2 pieces together over the Sholders
leaveng a flap or lapells which fall over near half way ther body both
before and behind. those dresses usially fall as low as mid leg, they are
frequently ornemented with beeds and Shells & Elk tuskes of which all
Indians are very fond of. those dresses are als frequently Printed in
various regular figures with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather
with Such velosity as to nearly burn it this is very handsom. they were
their hair flowing and are excessively fond of ornamenting their ears with
blue beeds — this nation peacbly disposed they may be estimated at
from 350 to 400 men inhabetig from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in
horses & Dogs, the dogs Carry a great preportion of their light
baggage. they Confess to be at war with no nation except the Sieoux with
whome they have ever since their remembranc been on a difencive war, with
the Bands of Sieoux. as I was about to leave the Cheifs of the Chyennes
lodge he requested me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was
full of beaver and they would then be encouraged to Kill beaver, but now
they had no use for them as they could get nothing for their skins and did
not know well, how to catch beaver. if the white people would come amongst
them they would become acquainted and the white people would learn them
how to take the beaver-. I promised the Nation that I would inform their
Great father the President of the U States, and he would have them
Supplied with goods, and mentioned in what manner they would be Supplied
&c. &c.
I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy friend Capt Lewis
is recovering fast, he walked a little to day for the first time. I have
discontinud the tent in the hole the ball came out
I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas Menetarras &
Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with themselves at night.
[Clark, August 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd August 1806 We Set out very early, the wind rose &
became very hard, we passed the Sar-war-kar-na-har river at 10 A. M and at
half past eleven the wind became So high and the water So rough that we
were obliged to put to Shore and Continue untill 3 p. M. when we had a
Small Shower of rain after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. Soon
after we landed I Sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the
next bottom of timber to hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on Slowly
and landed in the bottom. the hunters had killed three Elk and 3 Deer the
deer were pore and Elk not fat had them fleece & brought in. the
Musqueters large and very troublesom. at 4 P. M a Cloud from the N W with
a violent rain for about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded
on. I observe great quantities of Grapes and Choke Cheries, also a Speces
of Currunt which I had never before observed the leas is larger than those
above, the Currt. black and very inferior to either the yellow, red, or
perple — at dark we landed on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S
W. Side and encamped, this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid
the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed. we Came
only 40 Miles to daye
My Frend Capt Lewis is recoverig fast the hole in his thy where the Ball
passed out is Closed and appears to be nearly well. the one where the ball
entered discharges very well-.
[Clark, August 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th August 1806 a fair morning we Set out as usial about Sunrise
and proceeded on untill 2 P M when the wind blew So hard from the N. W.
that we could not proceed came too on the S W. Side where we continued
untill 5 P.M. when the wind lay a little and we again proceeded on. at 8 a
M. we passed La-hoo-catts Island, opposit the lower point of this Island
on the S. W. Side near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White
stone I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone
containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry this Stone
will Crumble the Clay of this bluff to the above and below is remarkably
Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed Good hope Island and at 11 a. m passed
Caution Island a Short distance below this Island we came too. Sent out a
hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he returned without
haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the Missouri is mostly the
Mule or black tail Species. we Saw only 6 buffalow to day the Sieoux have
been laterly encamped on the river and have Secured the most of the game
opp. a large trail has passed on a derection to the enterance of the
Chyenne this probably is the trail of a war party. at 5 P.M. we proceeded
on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the gouge of the lookout bend of 20 miles
around and 3/4 through, a little above an old tradeing house and 4 miles
above of our outward bound encampment of the 1st of October 1804, haveing
made 43 miles to day.
[Clark, August 25, 1806]
Monday 25th August 1806 a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze ahead we Set
out at the usial hour and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields
Collins Shannon and the two fieldses to proceed on in the two small Canoes
to the Ponia Island and hunt on that Island untill we came on, they Set
out before day light The Skirt of timber in the bend above the Chyenne is
not very Considerable the timber is Scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S
W Side of the river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 &
10 miles from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of Small Cotton trees is also
on the N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 41/2 miles above the Chyenne
imediately at the enterance of that river I observe but fiew large trees
Some Small Growth and willows on the lower Side bottom on the Missouri
about 1/2 a mile and extends up the Chyen 1 mile about a quarter of a mile
above is a 2d bottom of Cotton timber, in the point above the Chyenne
there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on that river and a large
timbered bottom a Short distance above. at 8 A.M. we Came to at the mouth
of the Chyenne to delay untill 12 to make a meridian observation and
derected 3 hunters to proced up this river and hunt its bottoms untill
twelve at which hou we Shall proceed on. the hunters returned with 2 deer
the Chyenne discharges but little water which is much the colour of the
missouri tho not So muddy I observe a very eligable Situation on the bank
of the Chyenne on it's lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance.
this Situation is above the high floods and has a perfect Command of each
river we obtained a Meridian altitude with the Sextt. and artificial
Horizon 112° 50' 00"- after which we proceeded on passed the pania Island
and came up with Shields and Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P
M we passed the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troubleson
Tetons below the old ponia village on the S W Side. a very large timbered
bottom on the N. E. Side imedialely below the Pania Island. Latd. of
Chyenne is ____ North. at Sunset we landed about the Center of a large
bottom on the N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and
below our Encampment of 29th of Septr. 1804. dreyer killed a deer after we
encamped. a little above our encampmt. the ricaras had formerly a large
village on each Side which was destroyed by the Seioux. there is the
remains of 5 other villages on the S W. Side below the Chyenne river and
one on Le ho catts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by the
Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played their oars and
we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and Shannon did not join this
evening which caused me to encamp earlier than usial for them. we Saw no
game on the plains today. the Tetons have been on the river not long Since
[Clark, August 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of August 1806 a heavy dew this morning the hunters or
Shannon & the 2 fields came up at Sunrise and we Set out, they had
killed only 2 Small deer one of which they had eat at 8 passed the place
the Tetons were encamped at the time they attempted to Stop us in Septr.
1804, and at 9 A.M. passed the enterance of Teton River. Saw Several black
tail or Mule deer and Sent out to kill them but they were wild and the
hunters Could not get a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the
Teton river I observed a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore and a
Short distance lower a raft which induces me to Suspect that the Tetons
are not on the Missouri at the big bend as we were informed by the
Ricaras, but up the Teton river. at Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side
opposit a handsom leavel plain in which there is great quantities of
plumbs which are not yet ripe. we passed the enteranc of Smoke Creek and
landed and Continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix the
Stearing oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are black tho not
thurerly ripe. at 5 P M. we landed a Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this
fort is entire and every part appears to be in the Same state it was when
we passed it in Septr. 1804. I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the
houses which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we proceeded
on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S. W. Side opposit our outward
bound encampment of the 21st of Septr. 1804, a fiew miles above Tylors
River. we had a Stiff breeze from the S. E. which continued to blow the
greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we were now in the Country
where we were informed the Sceoux were assembled we were much on our guard
deturmined to put up with no insults from those bands of Seioux, all the
arms &. in perfect order. Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he
walks a little. I have discontinued the tent in the hole where the ball
entered, agreeable to his request. he tells me that he is fully Convinced
that the wound is sufficiently heeled for the tents to be discontinued. we
made 60 miles to day with the wind ahead greater part of the day-
[Clark, August 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th Augt. 1806 Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head
from the East proceeded to the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side
and landed on a Sand bar and Sent out the hunters to kill Some meat, our
Stock of meat being now exousted and this the most favourable place to
precure a fresh Supply, the hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing
killed any thing. they informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten
up and the grass laid flat by the emence number of Buffalow which had been
here a Short time past. the deer had left the bottom. they Saw several
Buffalow Bulls which they did not think proper to kill as they were unfit
for use. here we discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P M we
halted in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was
very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at 2 P. M we again
proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow Bulls on each Side of the river
also Some deer of the Common kind at 6 P.M. we herd the bellowing of the
Buffalow Bulls in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge which
induced a belief that there was Some fat Cows, 5 men went out from the 2
Small Canoes which was a little a head, and killed two Cows one Bull and a
Calf nether of them wer fat we droped the Perogue & Canoes to the
lower part of the Island near to where the buffalow was killed and
incamped haveing Come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow butched and
brought in and divided. My friend Capt Lewis hurt himself very much by
takeing a longer walk on the Sand bar in my absence at the buffalow than
he had Strength to undergo, which Caused him to remain very unwell all
night.
[Clark, August 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th of August 1806 Capt Lewis had a bad nights rest and is not
very well this morning. we Set out early and proceded on very well, Saw a
number of Buffalow bulls on the banks in different places. passd the 3
rivers of the Seioux pass at 9 A.M. a Short distance below on the S W Side
Sent out Reubin & Joseph Feild to hunt for the Mule deer or the
antilope neither of which we have either the Skins or Scellitens of, we
detected those two men to proceed on down to the places we encamped the
16th & 17th of Septr. 1804 and which place the party had called
pleasant Camp from the great abundance of Game Such as Buffalow Elk,
antilopes, Blacktail or mule deer, fallow deer, common deer wolves barking
Squirels, Turkies and a variety of other animals, aded to which there was
a great abundance of the most delicious plumbs and grapes. this Situation
which is a Short distance above the enterance of Corvus Creek we are
deturmined to delay one day for the purpose of prcureing the sceletins of
the Mule deer & antilope, and Some barking Squirels. a fiew miles
below the place the 2 Fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech
on Shore with the Same directions which had been given to the 2 field's at
12 oClock we Landed on the S W. Side at the Same Spot which we had
encamped on the 16th and 17th of September 1804, and formed a Camp, Sent
out Serjt. Pryor, Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the
plains up Corvus Creek for the Antilope and Mule deer Sent out Bratten and
Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave directions to all of them to
kill the Magpye if they Should See any of them Several of the men and the
Squaws of the enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to Some plumb
bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than the party Could eate
in 2 days, those blumbs are of 3 Speces, the most of them large and well
flavored. our Situation is pleasent a high bottom thinly timbered and
covered with low grass without misquitors. at 3 P. M Drewyer and Labeech
arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the Common Speceis only. in
the evening late all the hunters returned without any Speces of animal we
were in want of, they killed 4 Common deer and two buffalow a part of the
best of the meat of those animals they brought in. we precured two of the
barking Squirels only. as we Could not precere any Mule deer or antelope
we concluded to Send the hunters on a head early in the morning and delay
untill 10 A. M to give them time to hunt. I derected Shannon & Collins
to go on the opposit Side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this
Side at Some distance from the river and join the party at the round
Island &c. and R. Field to proceed on Slowly in the Small Canoe to
that place and take in any thing which the hunters might kill. Made 32
miles to day
The hunters informed me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the
plains. I Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a
distance.
[Clark, August 29, 1806]
Friday 29th August 1806 a cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on
agreeable to their orders of last night. I Sent out two men to the village
of barking Squirels with direcitions to kill Some of them. they after 2
hours returned and informed me that not one of those Squirels were to be
Seen out of their holes. the Skins of the party which they had been
dressing Since yesterday being now completely dressed I derected all loose
baggage to be put on board the Canoes and at 10 A.M. Set out and proceeded
on passed the white river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of
Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard, they
had killed 2 common der but no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard informed me
that he Saw 2 antilopes but Could not get near to them. Willard and
Labiech waded white river a fiew miles above its enterance and inform me
that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards wide. the water of this
river at this time nearly as white as milk. put Drewyer out to hunt on the
S W. Side and proceeded on below the round Island and landed on the N. E.
Side I with Several of the men went out in pursute of Buffalow. the men
killed 2 Bulls near me they were very por I assended to the high Country
and from an eminance, I had a view of the plains for a great distance.
from this eminance I had a view of a greater number of buffalow than I had
ever Seen before at one time. I must have Seen near 20,000 of those
animals feeding on this plain. I have observed that in the country between
the nations which are at war with each other the greatest numbers of wild
animals are to be found- on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer.
after Dinner we proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo.
& Rubin fields and Collins, and encamped on the S W. Side a little
below our encampment of 13th Septr. 1804, haveing made 20 Miles only.
neither of the hunters killed either a Black tail deer or an antilope. Jo.
Fields & Shields each killed a porcupin and two others of the hunters
Killed Deer, Drewyer did not join us untill 10 P.M. he informed that he
Saw some antilopes and Mule deer but Could kill none of them. Jo. Field
informed that he wounded female of the Mule deer a little below our Camp
late in the evening and could not prosue her I directed him to Set out
with 3 others and follow the Deer and get her if possible early in the
morning.
[Clark, August 30, 1806]
Saturday 30th of August 1806 Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at
the usial hour and proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was on
the Shore being behind I derected one of the Small Canoes with R. Fields
& Shannon to continue on the point of a Sand bar untill he corns up. I
took 3 hunters and walked on the N E Shore with a view to kill Some fat
meet. we had not proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd of the most
deelicious plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran the hunters
killed them. I Stoped the Canoes and brought in the flesh which was fat
and fine. here the party Collected as many plumbs as they could eate and
Several pecks of which they put by &c. after a delay of nearly 2 hours
we again proceeded on downwards passed 3 Small Islands and as we were
about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields and Shannon,
I saw Several men on horseback which with the help of a Spie glass I found
to be Indians on the high hills to the N E we landed on the S. W. Side and
I sent out two men to a village of Barking Squirels to kill Some of those
animals imedeatily after landing about 20 indians was discovered on an
eminanc a little above us on the opposite Side. one of those men I took to
be a freinch man from his a blanket Capoe & a handkerchief around his
head. imediately after 80 or 90 Indian men all armed with fusees &
Bows & arrows Came out of a wood on the opposite bank about 1/4 of a
mile below us. they fired of their guns as a Salute we returned the Salute
with 2 rounds. we were at a loss to deturmin of what nation those indians
were. from their hostile appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons.
but from the Country through which they roved we were willing to believe
them eithe the Yanktons, Ponars or Mahars either of which nations are well
disposed towards the white people. I deturmined to find out who they were
without running any resque of the party and indians, and therefore took
three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania and some Seioux and in a
Small canoe I went over to a Sand bar which extended Sufficently near the
opposite Shore to Converse. imedeately after I Set out 3 young men Set out
from the opposite Side and Swam next me on the Sand bar. I derected the
men to Speak to them in the Pania and mahar Languages first neither of
which they could understand I then derected the man who could Speak a fiew
words of Seioux to inquire what nation or tribe they belong to they
informed me that they were Tetons and their Chief was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar
or the black buffalow This Chief I knew very well to be the one we had
seen with his band at Teton river which band had attempted to detain us in
the fall of 1804 as we assended this river and with whome we wer near
comeing to blows. I told those Indians that they had been deef to our
councils and ill treated us as we assended this river two years past, that
they had abused all the whites who had visited them since. I believed them
to be bad people & Should not Suffer them to cross to the Side on
which the party lay, and directed them to return with their band to their
Camp, that if any of them come near our camp we Should kill them
certainly. I lef them on the bear and returned to th party and examined
the arms &c. those indians seeing Some Corn in the Canoe requested
Some of it which I refused being deturmined to have nothing to do with
those people. Several others Swam across one of which understood pania,
and as our pania interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to
inform what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation that we had
not forgot their treatment to us as we passed up this river &c. that
they had treated all the white people who had visited them very badly;
robed them of their goods, and had wounded one man whome I had Seen. we
viewed them as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come to
them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the nations above they
would Come Sufficiently Strong to whip any vilenous party who dare to
oppose them and words to the Same purpote. I also told them that I was
informed that a part of all their bands were gorn to war against the
Mandans &c, and that they would be well whiped as the Mandans &
Menetarres & had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and we had given
them a Cannon to defend themselves. and derected them to return from the
Sand bar and inform their Chiefs what we had Said to them, and to keep
away from the river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c.
those fellows requested to be allowed to Come across and make Cumerads
which we positively refused and I directed them to return imediately which
they did and after they had informed the Chiefs &c. as I Suppose what
we had Said to them, they all Set out on their return to their Camps back
of a high hill. 7 of them halted on the top of the hill and blackguarded
us, told us to come across and they would kill us all &c. of which we
took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for the arival of
the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind, and were Some what
consd. as to their Safty. to our great joy those men hove in Sight at 6
P.M. Jo. Fields had killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we then Set out, as
I wished to See what those Indians on the hill would act. we Steared
across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them Some agitation as to
our intentions, some Set out on the direction towards their Camps others
walked about on the top of the hill and one man walked down the hill to
meet us and invited us to land to which invitation I paid no kind of
attention. this man I knew to be the one who had in the fall 1804
accompaned us 2 days and is Said to be the friend to the white people.
after we passd. him he returned on the top of the hill and gave 3 Strokes
with the gun he had in his hand this I am informed is a great oath among
the indians. we proceeded on down about 6 miles and encamped on a large
Sand bar in the middle of the river about 2 miles above our encampment on
Mud Island on the 10th Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to Day. Saw
Several Indians on the hills at a distance this evening viewing us. our
encampment of this evening was a very disagreable one, bleak exposed to
the winds, and the Sand wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being
disturbed by those Scioux in the Course of the night as well as to avoid
the Musquetors-. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.
[Clark, August 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st August 1806 all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half
past 11 last night the wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to
rain with hard Claps of thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and
the wind Shifted about to the S W. & blew with great violence So much
So that all hands were obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent
their being blown off from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind
broke the cables of the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they
were got to Shore Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the
indians go in broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown
quite across the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived
Safe, I Sent Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the
2 Canoes and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied
together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and by 2
A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all Safe,
the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet and
disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in order and
we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the hills untill
we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy and wind down the
the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest village of Barking
Squirels. this is also the highest up the river where I observed the fox
Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E Side I killed 2 fox
Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the banks as usial. the Sun
Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we encamped on the N. E. Side a
little below our Encampment of the 5th of Septr. on no preserve Island
haveing Come 70 Miles.
[Clark, September 1, 1806]
Monday 1st of September 1806 Musquitors very troublesom last night, we set
out at the usial hour and had not proceeded on far before the fog became
So thick that we were oblige to come too and delay half an hour for the
fog to pass off which it did in Some measure and we again proceded on R.
Jo. Fields and Shannon landed on an Ponceras Island to try to kill Some
deer which was Seen on the beech and the Canoes all passed them at 9 A. M
we passed the enterance of River Quiequur which had the Same appearance it
had when we passed up water rapid and of a milky white Colour about two
miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians ran down the bank and beckened to us
to land, they appeared to be a war party, and I took them to be Tetons and
paid no kind of attention to them further than an enquirey to what tribe
they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume they did not
understand the man who Spoke to them as he Spoke but little of their
language. as one Canoe was yet behind we landed in an open Commanding
Situation out of Sight of the indians deturmined to delay untill they Came
up. about 15 minits after we had landed Several guns were fired by the
indians, which we expected was at the three men behind. I calld out 15 men
and ran up with a fill deturmination to Cover them if possible let the
number of the indians be what they might. Capt Lewis hobled up on the bank
and formed the remainder of the party in a Situation well calculated to
defend themselves and the Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the point
about 250 yards I discovered the Canoe about 1 mile above & the
indians where we had left them. I then walked on the Sand beech and the
indians came down to meet me I gave them my hand and enquired of them what
they were Shooting at, they informed me that they were Shooting off their
guns at an old Keg which we had thrown out of one of the Canoes and was
floating down. those Indians informed me they were Yanktons, one of the
men with me knew one of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's
wife. finding those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the
boats to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all eagerly Saluted the
Mandan Chief, and we all Set and Smoked Several pipes. I told them that we
took them to be a party of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at the
three men in the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention to
kill them all if they had been tetons & fired on the Canoe as we first
expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we were glad to See them
and take them by the hand as faithfull Children who had opened their ears
to our Councils. one of them Spoke and Said that their nation had opened
their years, & done as we had directed them ever Since we gave the
Meadel to their great Chief, and Should Continue to do as we had told them
we enquired if any of their Chiefs had gone down with Mr. Durion, the
answered that their great Chief and many of their brave men had gone down,
that the white people had built a house near the Mahar village where they
traded. we tied a piec of ribon to each mans hair and gave them Some Corn
of which they appeared much pleased. The Mandan Cheif gave a par of
elegant Legins to the principal man of the indian party, which is an
indian fashion. the Canoe & 3 men haveing joined us we took our leave
of this party telling them to return to their band and listen to our
councils which we had before given to them. Their band of 80 Lodges were
on plum Creek a fiew miles to north. those nine men had five fusees and 4
bows & quivers of arrows. at 2 P.M. we came too on the upper point of
bon homme opposit the antient fortification and Sent out men to hunt on
each Side and on the island. and the canoes on each Side of the island to
receive any meat might be killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found
the bottom rich and thickly covered with Peavine rich weed grass
interwoven in Such a manner with grape vines that I could not get through
and was obliged to assend a high plains the passing through which I also
found tiresom. the grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors
excessively bad. at the lower point of the Island all the Canoes &
hunters Came together. Labeech killed an Elk only the flesh of which was
brought on in the perogue. at this island we brought 2 years together or
on the 1st of Septr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island.
after we all Came together we again proceeded on down to a large Sand bar
imediately opposit to the place were we met the Yanktons in Council at the
Calumet Bluffs and which place we left on the it of Septr. 1804. I
observed our old flag Staff or pole Standing as we left it. the musquitors
excessively troublesom untill about 10 P.M. when the S W wind became
Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to day only with a
head wind. the Country on either Side are butifull and the plains much
richer below the Queiquer river than above that river.
[Clark, September 2, 1806]
Tuesday 2nd of September 1806 Set out at the usial hour passed the River
Jacque at 8 A.M. in the first bottom below on the N E. Side I observed the
remains of a house which had been built since we passed up, this most
probably was McClellins tradeing house with the Yanktons in the Winter of
1804 & 5 the wind was hard a head & continued to increas which
obliged us to lay by nearly all day. as our Store of meat, I took with me
8 men and prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3 miles and killed
two which was in very good order, had them butchered and each man took a
load as much as he Could Carry and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still
high and water rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded to
a Sand bar a Short distance below the place we had Come too on account of
the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the woods being the harbor of the
Musquetors and the party without the means of Screaning themselves from
those tormenting insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly blows
moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly. The wind
Continued to blow hard from the Same point S. E untill 3 P. M I saw in my
walk to day Lynn and Slipery Elm. the plains are tolerably leavel on each
Side and very fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to the Illinois, those
are the highest up which have been Seen, white Oak is very Common also
white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two turkys killed to day of
which the Indians very much admired being the first which they ever Saw.
Capt L. is mending fast — we made only 22 Miles to day.
[Clark, September 3, 1806]
Wednesday 3rd of September 1806 Wind Continued to blow very hard this
morning. it Shifted last night to the S. W. and blew the Sand over us in
Such a manner as to render the after part of the night very disagreeable.
the wind luled a little and we Set out and proceeded on with the wind a
head passed the enterance of redstone River on the N E. Side at 11 A M.
and at half past 4 P. M we Spied two boats & Several men, our party
peyed their Ores and we Soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men of
these boats Saluted us with their Small arms I landed & was met by a
Mr. James Airs from Mackanaw by way of Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this
Gentleman is of the house of Dickson & Co. of Prarie de Chian who has
a Licence to trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded
with Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved both Capt. Lewis
and my Self with every mark of friendship he was himself at the time with
a chill of the agu on him which he has had for Several days. our first
enquirey was after the President of our country and then our friends and
the State of the politicks of our country &c. and the State Indian
affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as Satisfactory
information as he had it in his power to have Collected in the Illinois
which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a violent Storm of
Thunder Lightning and rain from the N W. which was violent with hard Claps
of thunder and Sharp Lightning which continued untill 10 P M after which
the wind blew hard. I set up late and partook of the tent of Mr. Aires
which was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat Sunk on the 25 of July
last by a violent Storm of Wind and hail by which accident he lost the
most of his usefull articles as he informd. us. this Gentleman informed us
of maney Changes & misfortunes which had taken place in the Illinois
amongst others the loss of Mr. Cady Choteaus house and furniture by fire.
for this misfortune of our friend Choteaus I feel my Self very much
Concernd &c. he also informed us that Genl. Wilkinson was the governor
of the Louisiana and at St. Louis. 300 of the american Troops had been
Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles above it's mouth, Some disturbance
with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh Country is the Cause of their being
Called down to that Country, the Spaniards had taken one of the U, States
frigates in the Mediteranean, Two British Ships of the line had fired on
an American Ship in the port of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2
Indians had been hung in St. Louis for murder and several others in jale.
and that Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was
killed &c. &c. I am happy to find that my worthy friend Capt L's
is so well as to walk about with ease to himself &c., we made 60 Miles
to day the river much crowded with Sand bars, which are very differently
Situated from what they were when we went up.
[Clark, September 4, 1806]
Thursday 4th September 1806 The Musquitors became troublesom early this
morning I rose at the usial hour found all the party as wet as rain could
make them. as we were in want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to
furnish us with 4 Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any
Merchant of St. Louis he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco
and gave to each man as much as it is necessary for them to use between
this and St. Louis, an instance of Generossity for which every man of the
party appears to acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a
barrel of flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear
amounting to about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his
purpose as he was about to make his establishment and would have it in his
power to hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have
yet a little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as
Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we
took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M. passed
the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at meridian we
came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds river and assended
the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the grave had been opened
by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this grave Completely filled
up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on to the Sand bar on which
we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of August 1804 near the Mahar
Village, here we came to and derected every wet article put out to dry,
all the bedding of the party and Skins being wet. as it was late in the
evening we deturmined to continue all night. had issued to each man of the
party a cup of flour. we See no Species of Game on the river as usial
except wild geese and pelicans. I observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a
number of flurishing black walnut trees, these are the first which I have
seen decending the river. a little before night Several Guns were heard
below and in a direction towards the Mahar village which induced us to
suspect that Mr. McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade
with the Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of
Guns was Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected
the Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the
morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued So
all night the party obtained but little Sleep — we made 36 miles only
to daye.
[Clark, September 5, 1806]
Friday 5th September 1806 The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting
that the party was all on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded
on very well. here the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c
becoms much narrower more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded
with Snags or Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did
not meet with McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the
guns which was heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just
arrived at their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they
usialy return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins
&c &c. proceeded on very well passd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P.
M here the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich
bottom. Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below
our Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day-
Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores to
day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks &c.
[Clark, September 6, 1806]
Saturday 6th of September 1806 The Musquetors excessively troublesom we
Set out early at the great Cut off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent
out Several hunters to kill Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing
any as the Elk was wild and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small
Canoes on a head with derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a
delay of half an hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7
of Pelecan Island a little above the Petite River de Seeoux we met a
tradeing boat of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to
trade with the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he
had exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they
Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man and
gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious licquor
which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805. Several of
the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver for Corse hats.
Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the troops had movd.
from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was prepareing to leave St.
Louis. We advised this trader to treat the Tetons with as much Contempt as
possible and Stated to him where he would be benefited by such treatment
&c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those men gave us 2 Shots from a
Swivell they had on the bow of their boat which we returned in our turn.
proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up with two of the hunters, they had
not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we over took the Canoe of the other
hunters with Shannon in it floating down, the two fields being in the
woods behind we Came too on a Sand bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all
the after part of the day for the two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in
the bottom up the river and observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters.
the evening proved Cloudy and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed
to day. we came 30 Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I
think they are below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey
of their journey. Children cry &c.
[Clark, September 7, 1806]
Sunday 7th September 1806 as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were
behind I derected Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and
if those men did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them
at any Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for
him to proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the
distance through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men,
I derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and
took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had
been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the little
Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and Grass very
high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the evaperation on
this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we assended this river,
and it now appears to be greater than it was at that time. I am obliged to
replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh ink at least 9/10 of which
must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom on the S W Side a little above
the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent out all the hunters. they killed
3 Elk which was at no great distance we Sent out the men and had the flesh
brought in Cooked and Dined. Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a
Sumptious Dinner we all Set out at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we
came too on the lower part of a Sand bar on the S W side found the
Musquetors excessively tormenting not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the
S. E. a little after dark the wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our
Camp of this night is about 2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of
august 1804 ascending we came 44 miles to day only
[Clark, September 8, 1806]
Munday 8th September 1806 Set out very early this morning, passed an old
tradeing house on the S W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11
A M we Came too at the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the
bluffs and around to examine the Country and Situation more particularly,
the Situation appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for
an establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of
great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get to
the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we arived at
our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the river platt at
which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July 1804 here we encamped
haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at this place does not appear
to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles above this, the evaperation
must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this river receives the water 20
rivers and maney Creeks Several of the Rivers large and the Size of this
river or the quantity of water does not appear to increas any-
[Clark, September 9, 1806]
Tuesday 9th September 1806 Set out early at 8 A. M passed the enterance of
the great river Platt which is at this time low the water nearly clear the
Current turbelant as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and
Confined the river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing
remains but a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift
wood, below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently
more rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pass
late in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped
imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804.
haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich
and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may be
Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut &
hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day
appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and friends.
My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds are heeled up
and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he Could. the parts
are yet tender &c. &.
The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were above
the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and air more
Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights are now So
worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew days past 2 was
not more than Sufficient
[Clark, September 10, 1806]
Wednesday 10th of September 1806 we Set out very early this morning and
proceeded on very well with wind moderately a head at ____ P M we met a
Mr. Alexander La fass and three french men from St. Louis in a Small
perogue on his way to the River Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf
Indians. this man was extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he
had, we axcepted of a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party,
Mr. la frost informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had
decended the Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out
on an expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay
of half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7
Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this
perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of
this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river
Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles
above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country narrow
and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or Snags
than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear Clear of
all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made 65 Miles to
day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day one of the men
killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
[Clark, September 11, 1806]
Thursday 11th Septr. 1806 a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us
untill after Sunrise at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well,
passed the nemahar which was low and did not appear as wide as when we
passed up. Wolf river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little
above the Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat
that which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6
hunters they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew
miles below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E.
Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney places
Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign — the
mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they
are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot account.
Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after we had
encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled those of
our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to be the dogs
of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking of those little
wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as also the other Side of
the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much resembles or Sounds to me like
our Common Small Cur dogs that I have frequently mistaken them for that
Speces of dog — The papaws nearly ripe
[Clark, September 12, 1806]
Friday 12th of September 1806 a thick fog a litile before day which blew
off at day light. a heavy Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the
usial hour and proceeded on very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from
St. Louis one contained the property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on
River Platt, the other going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we
met one of the french men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he
informed us that Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head
Soon after we pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us
that he was one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance
below, we took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at
the St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the
Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the
Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined the
instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was ordered to
the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U. States to that
nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara Cheif who had
visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City of Washington, he
was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture & make every enquirey
after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion was enstructed to
accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him with his presents
& by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on Some of the
Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit the Seat of the
Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make every enquirey after
us. we made Some Small addition to his instructions by extending the
number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from each band including the Yanktons
&c. Mr. McClellin receved us very politely, and gave us all the news
and occurrences which had taken place in the Illinois within his knowledge
the evening proveing to be wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all
night, we despatched the two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
[Clark, September 13, 1806]
Saturday 13th September 1806 rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram
and a little after Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at
8 A M we landed at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head,
they had killed nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in
Safty through the emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded
to lye by and Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill
Some meat, we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one
turky and informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was
impossible to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a
little Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank
about a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1
mile and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed
untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on down
a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing decended
18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man George Shannon
left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife and did not think
of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the thick rushes and the
Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as cotton wood, Sycamore, ash
mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut, hickory, horn beem, pappaw
arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape vines, pees of 3 species
&c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the hooting owl and
hawks, &c. &c.
[Clark, September 14, 1806]
Sunday 14th Sept. 1806 Set out early and proceeded on very well. this
being the part of the Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season
of the year for the purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other
nations above, we have every reason to expect to meet with them, and
agreeably to their Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues
and takeing what they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to
take those liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and
for the Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below
the lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the
Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau
all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship and
pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, &
part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats, makeing
every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c. those men
were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer on the banks
and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer were Meager. we
proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river below our
encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing decended only 53
miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs untill 11 oClock at
night in the greatest harmoney.
[Clark, September 15, 1806]
Monday 15th of September 1806 we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head
saw Several deer Swiming the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M.
passed the enterance of the Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile
below we landed and Capt Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared
to have a Commanding Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky
imediately at the foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a
perfect Command of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view
of the Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only
to let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country
abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a Small
Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they Soon Came
up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we had his
flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the greater part
of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short distance Above
Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors in this lower
portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and as high up as
the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and above its enterance
into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most Charming bottom lands to day
and the uplands by no means bad, all well timberd. the weather
disagreeably worm and if it was not for the constant winds which blow from
the S. and S E. we Should be almost Suficated Comeing out of a northern
Country open and Cool between the Latd. Of 46° and 49° North in which we
had been for nearly two years, rapidly decending into a woody Country in a
wormer Climate between the Latds. 38°& 39° North is probably the Cause
of our experiencing the heat much more Senceable than those who have
Continued within the parralel of Latitude.
[Clark, September 16, 1806]
Tuesday 16th September 1806 we Set out early this morning and proceded on
tolerably well the Day proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much
So that the men rowed but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing
perogue bound for the Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at
11 A. M we met young Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2
Canoes, the licenes of this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars
and ottoes reather an extroadanary a license for young a man and without
the Seal of the teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to
this instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we
were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some
enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the Steps
of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in the eyes
of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above our encampment
of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles only to day.
[Clark, September 17, 1806]
Wednesday 17th September 1806 We Set out as usial early pass the Island of
the little Osage Village which is considered by the navigater of this
river to be the worst place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is
confined between an Island and the S E main Shore and passes through a
narrow chanel for more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney
places quite across obligeing the navigater to pica, his passage between
those Snags as he can, in maney places the current passing with great
velocity against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we
met a Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army
assending in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend
Capt. Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced
to meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a
partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing
enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this
Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the people
of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the U. States
had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt. McClellin, he
gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for which our party
were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel of corn & much
obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was on reather a
speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with the view to
entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to proceede up this river
to the Entcrance of the river platt there to form an establishment from
which to trade partially with the Panas & Ottoes, to form an
acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of their principal Chiefs to
accompany him to Santa Fee where he will appear in a stile calculated to
atract the Spanish government in that quarter and through the influence of
a handsome present he expects to be promited to exchange his merchindize
for Silver & gold of which those people abound. he has a kind of
introductory Speach from Govr. Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a
quantity of presents of his own which he purposes distributing to the
Panias and ELeatans with a view to gain their protection in the execution
of his plans, if the Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes
takeing his merchendize on mules & horses which Can easily be procured
of the panias, to Some point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within
the Louisiana Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may
meet him for the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a
very good one if strictly prosued &c.
we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and
hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved
worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above Grand
river on S E. Side.
[Clark, September 18, 1806]
Thursday 18th of September 1806 we rose early Capt McClellin wrote a
letter and we took our leave, and proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7
A M. a Short distance below we came up with our hunters, they had killed
nothing. at 10 oClock we Came too and gathered pottows to eate we have
nothing but a fiew Buisquit to eate and are partly compelled to eate
poppows which we find in great quantities on the Shores, the weather we
found excessively hot as usial. the lands fine particularly the bottoms. a
charming Oake bottom on the S E Side of the Missouri above the 2
Charletons rivers we find the Current of this part of the Missouri much
more jentle than it was as we assended, the water is now low and where it
is much confin'd it is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, Saw
one bear at a distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party entirely out
of provisions Subsisting on poppaws. we divide the buiskit which amounted
to nearly one buisket per man, this in addition to the poppaws is to last
is down to the Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear perfectly
contented and tell us that they can live very well on the pappaws. we made
52 miles to day only. one of our party J. Potts complains very much of one
of his eyes which is burnt by the Sun from exposeing his face without a
cover from the Sun. Shannon also complains of his face & eyes &c.
Encamped on an Island nearly opposit to the enterance of Mine river.
[Clark, September 19, 1806]
Friday 19th of Sept. 1806 Set out this morning a little after day &
proceeded on very well the men ply their oares & we decended with
great velocity, only Came too once for the purpose of gathering pappows,
our anxiety as also the wish of the party to proceed on as expeditiously
as possible to the Illinois enduce us to continue on without halting to
hunt. we Calculate on ariveing at the first Settlements on tomorrow
evening which is 140 miles, and objecet of our party is to divide the
distance into two days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to the
Charriton a Small french Village — we arived at the Enterance of Osage
River at dark and encamped on the Spot we had encamped on the 1st & 2d
of June 1804 haveing Came 72 miles. a very singular disorder is takeing
place amongst our party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have
their eyes inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them
extreamly painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the eye ball
is much inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the Sun, the cause of
this complaint of the eye I can't account for. from it's Sudden appearance
I am willing to believe it may be owing to the reflection of the Sun on
the water
[Clark, September 20, 1806]
Saturday 20th Septr. 1806 as three of the party was unabled to row from
the State of their eyes we found it necessary to leave one of our Crafts
and divide the men into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes lashed
together which I had made high up the River Rochejhone, those Canoes we
Set a drift and a little after day light we Set out and proceeded on very
well. The Osage river very low and discharges but a Small quantity of
water at this time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the
enterance of the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with 5
french men bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being extreemly
anxious to get down ply their ores very well, we Saw Some cows on the bank
which was a joyfull Sight to the party and Caused a Shout to be raised for
joy at ____ P M we Came in Sight of the little french Village called
Charriton the men raised a Shout and Sprung upon their ores and we soon
landed opposit to the Village. our party requested to be permited to fire
off their Guns which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a
harty Cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay opposit
the village. we landed and were very politely received by two young Scotch
men from Canada one in the employ of Mr. Aird a Mr. ____ and the other Mr.
Reed, two other boats the property of Mr. Lacomb & Mr. ____ all of
those boats were bound to the Osage and Ottoes. those two young Scotch
gentlemen furnished us with Beef flower and Some pork for our men, and
gave us a very agreeable supper. as it was like to rain we accepted of a
bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a Citizen two gallons of
Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged to give Eight dollars in
Cash, an imposition on the part of the Citizen. every person, both French
and americans Seem to express great pleasure at our return, and
acknowledged them selves much astonished in Seeing us return. they
informed us that we were Supposed to have been lost long Since, and were
entirely given out by every person &c.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide in perpotion to
their length. their length about 30 feet and the width 8 feet &
pointed bow & Stern, flat bottom and rowing Six ores only the
Skeneckeity form. those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this
river, I beleive them to be the best Calculated for the navigation of this
river of any which I have Seen. they are wide and flat not Subject to the
dangers of the roleing Sands, which larger boats are on this river. the
American inhabitants express great disgust for the govermt of this
Teritory. from what I can lern it arises from a disapmt. of getting all
the Spanish Grants Confirmed-. Came 68 ms. to day.
[Clark, September 21, 1806]
Sunday 21st Septr. 1806 rose early this morning Colected our men Several
of them had axcepted of the invitation of the Citizens and visited their
families. at half after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos
assending on a hunting expedition. Saw Several persons also Stock of
different kind on the bank which reviv'd the party very much. at 3 P M we
met two large boats assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles,
the party rejoiced at the Sight of this hospital village plyed thear ores
with great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the Town, this day being
Sunday we observed a number of Gentlemen and ladies walking on the bank,
we Saluted the Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and the Small
arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the town. we were met
by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found them excessively polite. we
received invitations from Several of those Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe,
Decett, Tice Dejonah & Quarie and several who were pressing on us to
go to their houses, we could only visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in the
course of the evening. Mr. Querie under took to Supply our party with
provisions &c. the inhabitants of this village appear much delighted
at our return and seem to vie with each other in their politeness to us
all. we Came only 48 miles today. the banks of the river thinly Settled
&c.
[Clark, September 22, 1806]
Monday 22nd of Sept. 1806 This morning being very wet and the rain Still
Continueing hard, and our party being all Sheltered in the houses of those
hospitable people, we did not think proper to proceed on untill after the
rain was over, and continued at the house of Mr. Proulx. I took this
oppertunity of writeing to my friends in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it
seased raining and we Colected our party and Set out and proceeded on down
to the Contonemt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's
Southern banks, at this place we found Colo. Hunt & a Lieut Peters
& one Company of Artillerists we were kindly received by the Gentlemen
of this place. Mrs. Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer
Sorry to find in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of ____ Guns and a harty welcom at this
place there is a publick Store kept in which I am informed the U. S have
60000$ worth of indian Goods
[Clark, September 23, 1806]
Thursday 23rd of Septr. 1806 we rose early took the Chief to the publick
store & furnished him with Some clothes &c. took an early
breckfast with Colo. Hunt and Set out decended to the Mississippi and down
that river to St. Louis at which place we arived about 12 oClock. we
Suffered the party to fire off their pieces as a Salute to the Town. we
were met by all the village and received a harty welcom from it's
inhabitants &. here I found my old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who
had Settled in this town in a public line as a Tavern Keeper. he furnished
us with Store rooms for our baggage and we accepted of the invitation of
Mr. Peter Choteau and took a room in his house we payed a friendly visit
to Mr August Chotau and Some of our old friends this evening. as the post
had departed from St. Louis Capt Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka
to detain the post at that place untill 12 tomorrow which was reather
later than his usial time of leaveing it
[Clark, September 24, 1806]
Wednesday 24th of September 1806 I sleped but little last night however we
rose early and Commencd wrighting our letters Capt. Lewis wrote one to the
presidend and I wrote Govr. Harrison & my friends in Kentucky and Sent
of George Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr.
Hays &. we dined with Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a
Store and purchased Some Clothes, which we gave to a Tayler and derected
to be made. Capt Lewis in opening his trunk found all his papers wet, and
Some Seeds spoiled
[Clark, September 25, 1806]
Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806 had all of our Skins &c. Suned and Stored
away in a Storeroom of Mr. Caddy Choteau. payed Some visits of form, to
the gentlemen of St. Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
[Clark, September 26, 1806]
Friday 26th of September 1806 a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.
Text prepared by:
- Rodney Chism
- Peter Idenu
- Bruce R. Magee
- Tyler Murad
Source
Lewis, Meriwether,
and William Clark. Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark
Expedition, 1804-1806; Printed from the Original Manuscripts
in the Library of the American Philosophical Society and by
Direction of Its Committee on Historical Documents, Together
with Manuscript Material of Lewis and Clark from Other Sources,
including Note-books, Letters, Maps, Etc., and the Journals of
Charles Floyd and Joseph Whitehouse, Now for the First Time Published
in Full and Exactly as Written. Ed. Reuben Gold Thwaits. Vol. 1.
New York: Dodd, Meade, 1904. Internet Archive. 13 Apr. 2009. Web. 18 June 2014.
<https:// archive.org/ details/ original journals 11lewi>.
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